How to properly shorten a chain on a bicycle with and without squeezing

Sequence of actions for removing a chain from a bicycle without squeezing it yourself

The squeezer is a useful device. However, it is not always at hand. What to do then? The prospect of being left in the middle of pristine nature somewhere many kilometers from the city does not look attractive. You can remove the chain from the bike without squeezing it. Doing this on your own will not be easy, but it is quite possible. Let us consider in detail the options for disassembling a chain with and without a lock.

Model with lock

Lock.

How to check if a chain has a lock? As easy as pie! A quick inspection to see if the chain has a link that is different from its neighbors. This is the castle. You can disconnect it by moving the pins on each of the links with your hands or pliers. To assemble the chain, you need to do the same steps in reverse order.

Model without lock

In this case, it will be difficult without squeezing. And the result will be unpredictable. But, if there are no other options, choose the lesser of 2 evils. So, we remove the chain without a lock from the bicycle using improvised means in this order.

1. Screw an ordinary vice to the table.
2. Secure the chain in a vice by placing a nut on one side, the hole of which corresponds to the pin.
3. Attach a small screw with a head on the other side.
4. While holding the vise, push the pin into the nut hole with the ball.

Important! In order to open the circuit, freeing one side is not enough. You need to move the link and remove the chain or add another ball and continue trying

Summing up, we can confidently say that the squeeze is an indispensable thing on the road for every cyclist. And if a broken chain with a lock can still be removed from the bicycle without this device, then as for a chain without a lock, it will be difficult to do without it. However, in case of form major circumstances, you can use the instructions given above.

Removing a chain that has a special lock on it

Removing such chains is easy and simple, it takes 1-2 minutes. You simply release the lock and the chain is removed.

There are even special tools for this and they can be purchased online or in specialized bicycle shops. They work both in expansion and compression, so that they can be used to remove and install the lock.

But our man is not looking for easy ways, and not every bicycle lover agrees to spend money on such tools, so all this can be done with the help of ordinary pliers or round nose pliers.

If the lock is tight and won't give in easily, you can try to remove it using an old brake or gear shift cable, strong rope or wire. To do this, the wire is threaded between the locking links, as shown in the figure. Using a pair of pliers, we grab both edges and sharply pull in opposite directions, releasing the lock.

Video on how to remove a chain lock using a rope

Some chains are removed entirely by hand. How this is done is shown in this video.

Reasons for the break[edit]

All possible causes of a circuit break are not fully known, and this can happen to anyone, but, nevertheless, such a breakdown is a rather rare occurrence. It is believed that the following reasons can lead to a break:

• Heavy chain wear;
• Incorrect chain assembly;
• Incorrect use of the front derailleur;
• Heavy biker weight.

In real life, the greatest chance of breaking the chain comes from excessive force applied to the pedals. The power, as they say, is there - no need for intelligence. Moreover, there may be some intrigue here - what won’t hold up first: the pedal axles, connecting rods, sprockets, or even the chain. As a rule, when a break occurs, only one (which turns out to be the weakest) link of the chain is damaged or destroyed; in order to continue movement, it is necessary to remove it and put the chain back together. In this case, the chain can be shortened to a critical length, so after repair, as soon as possible, you should check the length and, if necessary, increase the chain with spare links.

How to choose the right puller

Choosing the best puller depends on its specifications, frequency, and application.

The following factors need to be assessed:

1. Frequency of expected cassette removal. For one-time or rare use, you can buy a cheap puller. Otherwise, it is better to purchase a more expensive option, because... This is a more reliable and durable tool: the slots do not wear off after the first use.
2. Puller weight and dimensions. With its small dimensions, it is convenient to carry it with you in a bag or pocket.
3. Presence of a guide pin. This is an additional advantage, because makes it easier to hold the puller.
4. The presence of a rubberized handle for rotation or a wrench included. This eliminates the problem of finding the right tool to remove the puller nut.

The choice of puller depends on its technical characteristics.

Installing a chain on a bicycle

To install a chain on a singlespeed, you just need to hang it on both sprockets, press in a pin or snap the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:

• Fix the derailleurs on the small chainrings.
• Taking into account the location of the tension rollers, put the chain on the sprockets.
• Combine the links.
• Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bicycle chain has a lock, we do without squeezing it.

After the installation is completed, you need to check the chain movement: spin the pedals several times. If there is no sagging or difficulty during torsion, then the chain has the optimal length and is installed correctly.

Every owner of a two-wheeled horse can cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. A simple and simple procedure will not take much time, but it will be a great help on future trips!

If you ride a bicycle for many kilometers, the spare parts will sooner or later wear out. After a long mileage, the bicycle chain will “stretch” and will need to be replaced. Technically the chain does not stretch

, but the pins that connect the links wear out, increasing the length of the chain.

Stretched chain

accelerates wear on the cassette and chain rings on the sprocket, so getting a new chain when the stretching is already noticeable is a good idea. It is recommended to replace the chain every 1000-1500 kilometers. By the way, replacing a chain is much cheaper than replacing cassettes or chain rings on a sprocket.

The chain repair and shortening information below will be very helpful.

Why disassemble the chain

Only a chain that is tensioned without sagging or distortion ensures effective transmission of torque from the pedals to the rear bicycle axle. The need to disassemble and shorten it may be due to the following reasons:

Take the survey

1. Replace due to severe wear or breakage. The new chain is the standard 114–116 links. On regular road bikes, as a rule, it is used entirely; on mountain bikes, it has to be shortened by 8–10 links. Only the necessary minimum is left on a trial bike.
2. Constructive changes. After upgrading a bicycle, the chain often begins to dangle, spin, or fall off the sprockets, despite proper care.
3. Sagging due to long-term use, intense load, changing a set of sprockets.

To determine the optimal length, you need to change the gear so that the chain lies on the largest sprocket at the front and rear. Then the links are opened, pulling it all the way. Having made a mark, add 2-3 more links to prevent increased loads on the transmission.

Those who are not confident in their own abilities are strongly recommended to contact a specialized store. There you can get competent advice and professional technical assistance.

Chain replacement may be necessary due to severe wear or breakage

Quite often the chain starts to loosen or spin after upgrading the bike.

Chain sagging is possible due to long-term use or changing the set of sprockets

Opening the lock and squeezing the link axis

Opening the lock is quite simple: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry up the pincer clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, and even better, not to lose it, otherwise you won’t be able to fix the chain later. Next, we uncouple the entire link. That’s it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we'll talk about this a little later.

Lock in disassembled condition

You can disconnect a continuous chain only with a special tool - a squeezer. With its help, you can easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but there is no need to rush:

• First, select a link for disassembly.
• We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
• We tighten the screw with a handle and pull out the axle. The direction of extrusion is towards the squeeze screw, that is, towards yourself.

You should not remove the pin completely, as it will not be easy to return it to its place later.

Hall chain release device

Squeezing loosens the axle a little, so when disengaging again, you should select a different link. Pressing the axle into a link is carried out in the opposite order: connect adjacent links and press the pin with a screw.

Instructions for replacing a chain with a squeezer yourself

Removing the chain by squeezing.

Usually, to remove the chain from the bike, an auxiliary tool is used - a squeezer. It makes it easy to remove even a permanent chain. The sequence of work is as follows:

1. Decide on the section of the chain to be disassembled. In case of repeated disassembly of the chain, it is preferable to take a section of the chain that cannot be repaired.
2. Insert the chain into the squeeze so that the pin is opposite the clamping axis.
3. Secure the chain with a knurled screw.
4. Turn the handle, squeezing the pin out.
5. Remove unnecessary links using a squeezer, pressing out the entire pin.
6. Connect the chain links. In this case, the pin located in the cheek should look outward towards you. First you need to run the chain through the rear and front derailleurs. Then place the chain links one on top of the other so that the pin aligns with the bushing.
7. Unclench the “cheeks” with pliers. Once the ends of the chain are in place, the pin coming out will prevent the links from coming apart.
8. Insert the squeeze into the link so that the axes of the pin and rod match perfectly, and rotate the funnel, pressing the pin into the hole.
9. Check the symmetry of the position of the pin and the “cheeks” of the links. Adjust their position if necessary.
10. Check the links for mobility relative to each other. If necessary, increase the mobility with pliers.

Bicycle chain parts and necessary tools

Chain wear indicator

: A typical chain wear indicator hooks onto a pin in the chain while the other end is inserted between two pins or rollers. The numbers on the tool will show how worn the chain is and whether it is time to change it.

New chain

: The type of chain depends on the number of speeds of the bicycle. So, for example, if the bike is 9-speed, you need to buy a 9-speed chain. More advanced chains include a special coating that will delay the appearance of rust, or they are already made of stainless steel.

Replacing pins or connecting link

: New chains immediately come with a new pin or special link called a connecting link that connects the 2 ends of the chain together. If you are repairing an existing chain, you will need to buy replacement pins or connecting links separately - they must be compatible with the chain speed and brand.

Squeeze

: If you have a standard link chain, you will need a compatible puller that will allow you to easily remove the old pin and install the new one when disconnecting and joining the chain.

Pliers:

If you have a chain that connects to a connecting link, you will need pliers to make the process of disconnecting and connecting the connecting link easier.

Changing the sprocket on the rear cassette

The set of transmission sprockets for the rear wheel is many times larger than the set for the front wheel. The standard set includes eight components, and in high-speed models (or on a sports bike) there are 9 or 11.

It is worth mentioning right away that a cassette or ratchet can be placed at the rear. The cassette is a modern version with internal spline mounting on the hub axis. Ratchets, as an outdated option, can only be found on budget high-speed bikes. The set usually includes 5-7 gears. The fastening is external, threaded, the removable tool differs from the cassette type.

The fundamental difference from a cassette is its integrity - you cannot change the sprocket separately on the ratchet. It’s either all at once, or nothing at all. Therefore, we will consider how to install a new sprocket on the cassette.

As with replacing drive sprockets, you will need special tools:

• cassette remover;
• chain whip-fixer;
• adjustable wrench or socket;
• additionally: wrenches, chain squeezer*.

*When removing the cassette you will need to first remove the rear wheel from the bike and then the axle nuts. At the same time, when replacing sprockets, you can clean the chain - to remove it, you need to squeeze it.

Sequence of work: 1. Remove the rear wheel with a 15mm wrench, with an eccentric fastening everything is simple - open the lever and loosen the fixing nut.

2. The next step is to unscrew the axle nuts. You will need a 17mm wrench for it. To remove the mount from the rotating axle, add an additional nut to secure the axle.

3. Unscrew the bearing cone and pull out the bearing from the opposite side.

4. Remove the axle with cone and bearing. About the bushing components: if necessary, you can immediately replace them with new ones.

5. Insert the cassette puller into the slots.

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6. Place the whip on the largest (lowest) star. We will rotate it clockwise.

7. Using an adjustable wrench or socket, rotate the puller counterclockwise.

It's so easy to shoot a cassette at home. Most modern star sets are dismountable; you can install one or two new stars. However, if there is severe wear, when half of the cassette is worn off, it makes no sense to change them separately. Difficulties can also arise if the largest sprocket, on which all the others are usually attached, has worn out.

Is it possible to dismantle the cassette without a puller and a whip? In principle, this can be done using a slotted tube and a spanner. You can make a whip yourself by welding a piece of an old chain to a metal knife handle.

When replacing individual sprockets, especially the middle ones, we carefully disassemble the cassette so as not to lose all the separating and fixing washers. Everything is simpler with a cassette on a spider - it does not need to be disassembled, the star is removed separately from its mount.

Rear transmission assembly:

1. Place and fix the new star, assemble the cassette.
2. Using a puller, install the drum onto the spline mount of the bushing. Before tightening, it is necessary to level the drum so that the connection does not wear out under load. You don't need a whip here - just forcefully rotate the puller clockwise.
3. Assemble the hub: insert the axle from the cassette side, then the bearing and cone from the left side, secure the axle with nuts.
4. Put on the chain and install the rear wheel.

Check the operation of the transmission and adjust the rear derailleur. Timely replacement of sprockets will eliminate unpleasant surprises on trips and will generally increase the service life of the bicycle transmission.

Symptoms of a problem

First of all, you should pay attention to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, riding time is determined by mileage, but these values ​​are too approximate, because everything depends on the cycling conditions: road quality, gear selection, speed, load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the front sprockets

The first signs of a bicycle chain failure are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided that the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will certainly help you determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and look at the number of free teeth. If the chain moves freely from three or more teeth, replacement is required urgently. Two teeth “warn” that wear is just around the corner, but you can still ride.

Using the same method, you can see if the chain is loose on a single-speed bicycle: bend it away from the front sprocket and look at the number of teeth.

Determination of the degree of attenuation

Another way to determine wear is to measure the length:

• 304.8 mm is the optimal chain length.
• 306.5 – 307.5 – average wear, suitability for repair. You can still drive.
• 308 mm – high degree of wear of both chain and sprockets.
• More than 308 mm – damage to the entire transmission.

Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.

Why does the chain skip over the sprockets?

Often, in the process of switching speed modes, especially if it is necessary to climb an elevated area, or the pressure on the pedals increases to the maximum value, the chain links begin to slip along the teeth of the sprockets.

This occurs for the following reasons:

• wear of the rollers and rollers contributed to the stretching of the links;
• the teeth on the sprockets installed at the back and front have ground off;
• there are cases where two causes appear simultaneously;
• Gear shifting is performed incorrectly.

There are special indicators that monitor the degree of chain wear and show when the chain requires replacement.

Standard removal process

All guides describe the same procedure for removal. To do this, you will need, first of all, a small set of tools - without them it will be quite difficult.

Tools

• rear wheel removal wrench;
• pliers for holding segments and pins;
• squeezer - a device for pressing out pins, without a lock - the most important tool in the process.

Process

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to remove a chain from a bicycle:

1. We clean the links from dirt - it will interfere with each subsequent step.
2. Removing the rear wheel is not a necessary step, but it is much easier to work without it.
3. Press out the pin (the metal cylinder that closes each link) using a squeezer.
4. Disconnect one link.
5. Remove the outer links from the switches.

The reverse sequence is similar - put the chain in place and assemble the structure back, riveting the pin using a squeezer and rotating it in the opposite direction.

No tools

In the absence of a squeeze, you can install everything back without it. Pliers and any strong cylinder, for example, a small hexagon, will help. By carefully clamping the cylinder, the pin can be riveted in the same way as a squeezer, it just requires much more attention and force.

Models with a lock can be unlocked using a tight rope or cable. This allows for quick repairs literally in the field, for example, when the chain suddenly breaks on a short hike.

Removing the lock link without tools

Design and its features

A bicycle chain is a fairly simple metal structure, which is designed to transfer the transmission from the drive sprocket to the driven sprocket. Components:

• External plate;
• Inner plate;
• Pin (roller);
• Video clip;
• Sleeve.

The main difference between the different types is the distance between the rollers and the width. For some types of transport, this part may be part of the gear shift system. This detail is important and requires special attention.

To ensure proper functioning of a bicycle chain, regular maintenance, cleaning and repairs are required. Periodic lubrication and washing will ensure good operation of the equipment, and every few thousand kilometers the chain must be replaced with a new one. There is also a certain indicator of the degree of elongation (0.5%), that is, pores when a new part is needed. Without special measuring tools, you can determine the degree of wear as follows: you need to install the element on the largest sprocket (drive) and pull it away, moving it away from the teeth. If the resulting space accommodates more than 4 teeth, then the bicycle part must be urgently replaced.

yvelo.ru

Every vehicle needs maintenance. Bicycles are not exempt. Their key element in the transmission unit is the chain. High-speed bicycles are characterized by great “finickiness” for normal functioning. The frequency of replacement or maintenance of the chain mechanism is largely determined by your riding style. For example, bike trial fans do this while riding. When and how do you change the chain on a speed bike?

Bicycle chains come in lock and solid chains. Disconnecting the lock variation is not particularly difficult. It is convenient to do this with ordinary thread (wire), threading it into adjacent links (before and in front of the lock) and tightening the loop. The main thing is to avoid damaging the lock and not losing it.

Opening a continuous chain is possible only with a special squeeze, although the procedure itself cannot be classified as a complex task:

• It will be necessary to install the chain in the pressing-pressing position of the axle.
• Tightening the screw to remove the pin.

Axial pressing has the opposite sequence: connecting the links and pressing the pin in with a screw.

What tools are important to have when replacing a chain:

1. A wrench used to remove the rear wheel.
2. Using pliers to hold the segments and pin.
3. By squeezing. As noted above, this device performs pressing and pressing of pins.

Cyclists who do not have sufficient experience in such matters are recommended to memorize a general diagram that reflects the location of the circuit on the system, cassette, and switches. Then the subsequent installation procedure will not cause difficulties.

Once all the nuances are recorded in memory (or on paper), you can proceed to further steps:

• Cleaning the links from dirt accumulations. If this is not done, dirt will be a significant obstacle to the next steps.
• Removing the rear wheel. The absence of this detail simplifies all actions, although experienced craftsmen safely skip this stage. In fact, it does not apply to mandatory measures.
• By extruding the pin present in all links (the metal cylinder that closes the link). Squeezing is used here.
• Disconnection of one link.
• Removing the end links from the switch system.

At this point, the removal of the chain (worn out or in need of cleaning) can be considered complete. The procedure itself is quite easy if you have the tools and basic knowledge. Accuracy of execution and the absence of forceful actions during the pressing process are very important.

With bicycles that have one gear (singlespeed), everything is limited to hanging the chain on the star-shaped parts and locking or pressing in the pin. The design of high-speed bicycles involves some difficulties in the issue under consideration.

They can be indicated by the following points:

1. Locking switches on small transmission sprockets.
2. Next, a chain is put on the teeth of the stars. It is important to take into account the location of the rollers involved in its tension.
3. Then the chain links are aligned.
4. The chain is clamped and the axle is pressed in or the lock is closed.

At the final stage, the progress is checked. For this purpose, the pedals are turned. Improper installation is characterized by sagging of the installed element and difficult torsion. If this is not observed, the installation of the chain was done according to all the rules.

In what cases, other than wear, should the chain be removed:

1. For deep cleaning when it is necessary to remove lubricant and accumulated abrasive.
2. To replace damaged links.

A failed chain stretches and its links move, damaging the sprockets, which negatively affects the derailleurs. Visually determining the degree of wear is quite difficult.

Therefore, they use a simple measurement, that is, you need to measure twenty-four links, or rather their total length:

• With a value of 30.5 cm, we can talk about the normal state of the chain.
• An indicator of 30.65-30.75 cm indicates the need for replacement.

By the way, cutting a stretched chain does not solve the problem. Tension is characterized by a uniform distribution. In this case, damage to the stars cannot be avoided. As you know, “star” parts cannot be repaired. It is cheaper to change the chain than to replace more expensive components.

The video will tell you how to replace a chain on a bicycle

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Often a cyclist finds himself in an unexpected and unpleasant situation on the road when a bicycle chain breaks or becomes loose, which requires urgent repair. Experienced cyclists often perform routine maintenance in a stationary setting, checking for compliance with quality parameters or completely replacing the transmission. In all these cases, it is necessary to use a special device that allows you to quickly and easily connect or disconnect. This is a chain squeeze.

This device should be a mandatory element in the repair kit of every bicycle driver, so that if necessary, you can rely on your own strength and perform express chain repairs even in the most difficult conditions. The advantage of the squeezer is that it has a compact size, and this allows it to take up minimal space in the repair kit.

Chain squeezing allows you not only to minimize the difficulties associated with breakdowns on the road, but also to carry out repair work without going to service centers or bicycle repair shops.

How does chain squeezing work?

This product has a movable screw in its design, which allows you to securely and tightly fix the bicycle chain. The release pin presses the pins and splits the chain jaws. In order for the device to work for many years and justify the amount spent on the purchase, it must be made of high-quality material that has maximum strength, which ensures the reliability of the entire squeeze. As a rule, the model should be created from durable steel. In order for this key to be easily held in the hand of the person performing the repair, the handle should not be smooth, but rough, which will guarantee good adhesion of the skin and the surface of the handle. The most successful option is a rubberized surface.

How to make repairs using a chain squeezer?

If your bicycle chain is broken or damaged/deformed, this is not a reason to throw it away. Having a chain squeezer, you can make repairs yourself at home and even in the field, following our instructions.

The algorithm of actions is simple: you need to find a weak spot in the chain and remove the broken link, then replace it with a new one (of the same brand as the chain itself) or a reusable link. After connecting components using a non-new element, the integrity will no longer be the same as it was before, and will not be as reliable as it could have been if replaced with a new link.

Operating procedure:

— remove the broken chain;

— disconnect the broken links;

- connect the broken link, which consists of an internal and external element (for this you will need a chain squeezer);

- install the link in the slot, which serves as a component for pressing or reverse action - pressing out the pin.

- strengthen the outer link in the outer section of the squeeze so that the pin is directed in the exact direction of the pin, press it so that it extends to a distance at which it can be removed;

— connect the finished two ends of the chain and press the pin with a squeezer.

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Using a chain squeezer

In some chains, a split link is used to remove and install it, so a squeeze is not used. But, when traveling, you need to have it, since the chain sometimes breaks, and it needs to be repaired - replace a section of the chain, or if the rooster or rear derailleur breaks, shorten the chain and turn a multi-speed bicycle into one high-speed one.

It is difficult to do all these actions without squeezing the chain. Very often, a chain squeezer is included in a universal tool, although such squeezers are inconvenient to use.

An indicator of the reliability of chain squeezing is the material from which its pin is made. It should be fairly rigid and not bend after several uses. Sometimes marc from well-known manufacturers works much worse than inexpensive ones of unknown origin.

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Reasons why a chain falls off the sprockets on a bicycle:

1. Weak tension.

The most common cause applies to single-speed and multi-speed bicycles.

How to check the tension of a bicycle chain? For a single-speed bicycle, its sag should be maximum 10-15mm in the center between the sprockets.

This is described in more detail in the article “How to correctly determine the length and tension of a bicycle chain” and we will not repeat it here.

Curvature of one or more chain links. Usually one link is enough. It occurs from impacts due to careless handling or falls of cyclists.

A single-speed bicycle chain is stronger and such problems are extremely rare there. With more delicate multi-speed ones, this happens, but it also cannot be said that it is very often. There is no way to treat this. It is necessary to either remove or change a link, if the length of the chain allows, or replace the entire chain. If the chain is already partially worn out, it is better to immediately replace it with a new one.

Aligning a link with a hammer on an anvil or with pliers is unrealistic. It is not ideal to align it directly, but in this form it will still accelerate the wear of the sprockets and fly off them

Deformation or wear of sprocket teeth in the system or cassette.

Deformation can only occur from impacts, and wear, especially on bikes with gear changes, is a natural and inevitable process.

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In both cases, it is better to change the sprockets, and if they are not the newest, there is a reason to replace the entire cassette at once.

I would like to clarify one more thing. Putting the crooked teeth of sprockets into place “with the help of a hammer and some kind of mother” is, at first glance, a simple and obvious task, but not rewarding and often useless. Although the craftsmen do everything, it’s up to you to ride such a bike, so think for yourself. It won’t work out perfectly smoothly: this means that the rate of chain wear will increase, and the risk of it falling off the sprockets will remain.

The chain is very stretched.

This is very rare in single speed bikes, but common in multi speed bikes. How to correctly determine chain wear is described here and we will not repeat it.

Front or rear derailleur set incorrectly.

This only happens on bikes with shift gears. The problem manifests itself when, when pedaling, the bicycle chain itself jumps to another sprocket. In this case, you need to configure the switches correctly. This is usually done with two adjusting bolts, marked L and H. But we will not consider all the nuances of this process within the framework of this article, especially since there are a lot of materials and videos on this issue on the Internet.

Chain assembly[edit]

When assembling the chain, it is necessary to overcome the tension of the rear derailleur spring, so an assistant will be appropriate here to hold the derailleur (or remove the chain from the system).

Place the chain so that the protruding pin faces your direction.

Grasp the link that does not have a pin protruding from it and guide the chain from right to left through the front and rear derailleurs. The rear derailleur has 2 “holes” next to the rollers that you need to thread the chain through. Connect the ends of the chain at the bottom against the resistance of the rear derailleur spring. Have an assistant hold the switch.

Place the link to be connected in the squeeze, on the stop that is closest to the fixing screw.

When adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the clamped pin so that they are coaxial.

Tighten the link with the fixing screw

Attention! Skipping this step may result in broken squeezer.

Rotate the handle to press the pin into the link. Constantly monitor the degree of immersion of the pin in the adjacent ones - it should not be completely flush with the cheek, but stick out a fraction of a millimeter.

Remove the chain from the squeezer, check how symmetrically the pin fits

If necessary, adjust its position.

Check the mobility of the assembled link. If it bends tightly, then you need to grab the chain on both sides of the assembled link and forcefully bend it in the transverse direction.

Sequencing

Let's look at how to shorten a bicycle chain designed by Gall (this is what is used on 95-99% of all modern bicycles).

We disconnect the chain

1. Find the closing link (lock). Some chains have a closing link. The link is fairly easy to spot as it is usually a little darker or lighter than the rest of the chain. It may also have protruding rollers that are secured by an outer plate. This plate usually has a large oval hole around one or two rollers.
2. Pedal until the master link is between the front and rear gears for easy access. If there is no closing link on the chain, then separate the chain using a squeezer. These steps are described below.
3. Unfold the master link, remove it and store it in a safe place. There are several design options for such a link. Some rotate on a hinge and allow you to remove the roller, while others can be opened by bending. Some closing links are disposable and can be removed with needle nose pliers or a special tool.
4. If there is no lock on the chain, then you need to use a squeeze. We install the squeezer so that its rod is exactly in the center of the pin (roller).
5. Smoothly rotate the squeeze handle until the roller comes out to the level of the second inner plate.
6. We disconnect the link without removing the pin completely.

Removing unnecessary links

1. We measure the required length and determine the pin for squeezing, taking into account that the released plates of the link coincide with the plates of the already squeezed one.
2. We repeat the sequence from step No. 1, squeezing the roller completely.

Circuit connection

We bring both ends of the chain together and carefully, centering the squeeze at the start and controlling the process every 0.2-0.3 mm, press the pin into the link released in step No. 2.

Some people prefer to remove the chain and shorten it in a more convenient position and place - in this case, before connecting, you should check whether it is threaded through the switches.

Best articles: Bicycle shock absorbers: types and their settings

Examination

1. The pressed roller itself. If there are creaks or problems with mobility on the link, we install the plates in place, bending the chain along the plane of the link until the clicking stops; hand strength is enough, no tool is required.
2. All shortened chain. We try to make several turns on the smallest sprockets - if there are problems, it will be noticeable immediately.

For a repeating type chain (half-link, with one pair of repeating plates), the process is simplified; there is no need to select a pairing. The chain of lightweight models and some sports variants can only be shortened with a specialized tool, and the shortening procedure is described in the company documentation.

If there is no squeeze

To avoid having to think about how to open a bicycle chain without special tools, it is strongly recommended to take the necessary tool with you even on short trips. Attempting to disassemble a chain without squeezing it out always risks bending or jamming the links without the possibility of their subsequent restoration. But when there is no other way out, you can try to disengage it by doing this (the method is suitable for bicycle chains without a lock, and with a locking link):

Place a suitable pin (nail, drill, dowel, awl) with a thickness slightly less than the link bead to the pin (if it is missing, to any link). Place a nut, washer, or something similar under the chain and inside the link. This item plays the role of an “amplifier” and will not allow the links to become jammed

Using a hammer, stone, or other object at hand, carefully hit the pin, trying to knock out the connection. The key to success is measuredness and accuracy of manipulations

How to remove a chain yourself using a squeezer

Perform actions in the following sequence:

• select the area you want to disconnect. If the element has been disassembled more than once, select a previously unrepaired link;
• a link is inserted into the squeeze so that the clamping axis and pin are opposite;
• the part in the chain squeeze is fixed with a screw;
• to push the pin out, rotate the handle of the device;
• when the pin is pressed out, the links are removed;
• the outermost ones are connected, making sure that the pin, which is located “in the cheek”, looks outward, i.e. He “looks” at the repairman making repairs. The part is first passed through the switches, after which two links are placed on top of one another, making sure that the pin coincides with the bushing;
• The “cheeks” are opened with pliers. The pin extending outward prevents the links from coming apart once they are in place;
• To press a pin into the hole, the squeeze is inserted into the link so that the axes of the rod and pin ideally coincide, and the funnel is turned;
• Next, check that the “cheeks” of the pin links are symmetrical. If this is not the case, they will have to be corrected;
• the connected links are checked for mobility. If they are motionless, the position is corrected using pliers.

How to perform repairs without squeezing

A chain squeezer and chain lock are useful devices that make it easier to maintain and repair an important part of the bike. But they may not be at hand. What to do in this case? There are two ways out: “drag” the non-working bike on yourself or remove the part without a special device. Staying thousands of kilometers from civilization with inoperable transport is not an attractive prospect. So, we choose option two, i.e. We remove the non-functioning part ourselves without squeezing. It is clear that this is difficult to do, but it is possible. There are several known methods of disassembly without squeezing.

Types of bicycle chains

Let's consider 2 main types of bicycle chains:

• Keyhole;
• Solid.

Keyhole

Its peculiarity is that it has a special clamping device. It is not difficult to remove one from the stars, as well as to put it back on. To do this, you just need to disconnect the lock.

The location of the split link can be determined by visual inspection. If the links are clean, finding the connector is easy. As a rule, the manufacturer's mark is stamped on the connector.

Solid

It is impossible to completely remove such a bicycle chain. If you remove it completely from the sprockets, it just hangs on the frame. Of course, compared to the option equipped with a lock, the solid design is less convenient. However, there are also advantages. The lock may become loose and the connecting pin may get lost. The links disengage. There are no such problems with a solid chain. If it breaks, then this is purely a quality cost.

How to make a chain key with your own hands

First of all, let's prepare the hairpin. For these purposes, we cut a piece of the length we need and chamfer the thread. It is necessary to chamfer the thread at the end so that the stud screws normally into the nut. To remove the chamfer we will use a sharpening machine or a grinder with a disc.

For the further stage of the work, welding will be required. You need to take a piece of chain 30-40 cm long, bend it into a loop and weld a nut to the ends. The diameter of the nut must be such that a threaded rod can be screwed into it

When performing welding work, it is very important not to burn the metal and do everything as carefully as possible

If you weld the nut to the chain crookedly, you can ruin the whole job. Therefore, it is better to double-check everything several times, and only then grab it. Read how to avoid burning through thin metal on the website mmasvarka.ru.

After the nut has been successfully welded to the chain, you will need to screw the stud onto it. To make it easier to use a chain wrench, a small handle can be welded to the back of the stud. To the other end, so that you can easily unscrew the bolts, you need to screw a nut on, and then weld it by welding.

This completes the making of a chain wrench with your own hands. To use the device made, it is enough to unscrew the pin to the required length, so that the chain wraps around the head of the bolt. Then, by twisting the stud back a little, you need to ensure that the nut is pressed tightly against the bolt. Well, after that, with a slight movement of the handle counterclockwise, you can unscrew the hardware.

The beauty of chain wrenches is that they can unscrew bolts of completely different sizes. That is, you will no longer have to carry sets of wrenches with you in order to unscrew the threaded connection.

Disassembling the chain[edit]

Wear gloves that you don't mind.

Remove the pomace and collect it if necessary.

Place the link to be pressed into the press, on the stop that is closest to the fixing screw.

When adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the pin being squeezed out so that they are coaxial.

Tighten the link with the fixing screw

Attention! Skipping this step may result in broken squeezer.

Rotate the handle to move the pin out of place. It may take a lot of effort, but the rest will be easy.

Slowly move the pin about 3-4 mm

Knowing the pitch of the thread on your squeeze, it is easy to calculate the number of turns of the handle required to move the pin the required distance. If you feel an increase in force on the handle (this means that the pin has almost completely left the opposite cheek), stop immediately!

Here our task is to squeeze the pin so much that it stops holding the chain together, but at the same time remains clamped in the cheek. If you push out the pin completely, it will be very difficult to insert it back in the field.

Remove the chain from the squeezer and check whether it can be separated by spreading the jaws with your finger.

If not, insert the chain back into the wringer, tighten it with the screw and pin, and turn the handle another half turn. If necessary, repeat several times - there is no need to rush here.

When the chain comes apart, ideally, the pin will stick out inside the link by about 0.5 mm, which will simplify subsequent assembly.

How to use a cassette remover

To carry out dismantling, in addition to the puller itself, it is advisable to have a tool called a “whip”. It holds the cassette when the nut is unscrewed with a puller. If you do not have such a device, you will have to make it yourself, because... the set of stars must be motionless.

Sequence of operations:

1. Insert the puller into the slotted nut holding the bicycle cassette, as shown in the photo.
2. Place the holder over the teeth of the large star.
3. Tighten the puller nut with an adjustable wrench.
4. Hold the cassette with a whip and turn the nut counterclockwise. This will require a lot of effort.

To dismantle, you need to insert the puller into the slotted nut.

Installation is carried out in reverse order.

Bicycle Chain Installation

It's time to thread the chain through the rear derailleur and connect it

Pay attention and make sure the chain goes straight through the drive wheel on the rear derailer

Using pins

: If the chain does not have a connecting link, then use a squeezer to connect the chain to the pin that is already in the new chain.
If you are repairing an old chain, always use a new pin instead of the old one. The new pin must be compatible with the chain, its speed and brand. The new pin must be inserted halfway using a squeezer, then pulled out on the other side using pliers. Using connecting links
: If you are connecting a chain with a connecting link, place one half of it on each end of the chain, connect the ends of the chain, assemble the connecting link with a tool to put it in place.

It is also possible to connect the connecting link without tools. Connect it and pull the chain in different directions to lock the connecting link as much as possible. Then loosen the derailer clutch, if equipped, and rotate the pedals so that the connecting link is at the top of the drive chain. Using the brakes, step firmly on one pedal, tension will be applied to the chain and it will snap into place.

How to replace a chain on a bicycle - video

It happens that you need to remove a bicycle chain - for example, to clean it, replace it or adjust the length (the latter is done if your new cassette has a different number of teeth, and you need to change the length of the chain accordingly by adding or removing a certain number of links) .

How to remove a chain with a lock

Inspect the chain: if you find a link that is different from all the others, then you are lucky - you have a chain with a lock. In order to separate it, move the pins (pins, axles) on each half-link (cheek). The circuit will open. The whole operation will take literally a minute. You don't need any special equipment: if you suddenly can't move the pins by hand, use pliers. Assembly is also done without any tricks, in reverse order.

How to remove a chain without a lock

If you have a chain without a lock, then you will need a special tool - a chain squeezer. It is inexpensive and takes up little space, so we recommend that you always carry it with you, along with a set of hexagons and a repair kit for cameras. Anything can happen on the road - if the chain suddenly breaks, you can easily remove the damaged links using a squeezer and connect the chain again.

How to remove a chain without squeezing? And is it worth doing?

How to remove a chain without squeezing is a pressing question. But no matter how often it is asked, it is better to remember one life rule. For good repairs and maintenance, it is better to use specialized tools! In this case, it is squeezing the chain.

There are two types of squeezers, most have two seats. One of them is for assembling and disassembling the chain, the second is for adjusting the position of the axle in the chain link bushing. If your squeeze is just like this, with two seats, then insert the chain link so that it is on the side closest to the adjusting screw. If you place the chain in the wrong place, you may accidentally break off the partitions between the squeeze seats during operation or crush the cheeks of the link.

Let's assume that the chain is laid correctly

Now carefully rotate the handle. You may have to apply significant force, so try to work carefully so that the link in the squeezer does not become distorted, otherwise it can be damaged

Make sure that the tip of the squeezer presses directly onto the pin. There is no need to turn the screw quickly; you should stop at the moment when the pin is squeezed out of the entire link, but remains on the far cheek. If you push it all the way out, believe me, it will be very difficult for you to put it back in. Also be careful not to accidentally knock the pin out of the cheek: this could cause it to roll away in an unknown direction and get lost.

When assembling, you will not need anything other than the same squeeze. I remind you again: be careful, don’t get carried away, so as not to squeeze the pin out of the link.

Two important notes:

• If your chain is equipped with a lock, you should not disassemble it by squeezing it.
• If you have to disassemble the same chain many times, then choose a new link each time: if you squeeze out the same pin over and over again, this will deteriorate the strength of the chain

Author of the article: Alexey Zheludkov

After using a bicycle for a long time without maintenance, the chain often begins to sag. How to shorten a bicycle chain at home? What is required to determine the correct length? We will look for answers to these and other questions in the presented material.

Tools for serious repairs

The highly specialized keys that technicians use at bicycle service stations are called pullers. These devices are not cheap and may not pay for themselves if the bike does not need repair for a long time. However, troubles can strike at the most unexpected moment; the workshop is far away and getting to it is problematic. In this case, you will need professional tools to perform high-quality repairs. Those who always service the bike with their own hands cannot do without them.

List of tools:

• wrench for removing pedal nuts;
• carriage puller;
• cone keys;
• circuit connector;
• squeezing connecting rods;
• cassette remover and whip.

To replace pedals, you can also use a regular 15 mm wrench; most often it is suitable for this purpose. The professional version has thin horns, which will allow it to easily unhook the pedals from the cranks, even with tiny gaps, which is typical for a mountain bike.

Pedal puller, narrow section, double-sided

A carriage puller is a tool that will allow you to replace the bearings and rings of the unit, replace the axle, or change the entire carriage if it is a closed type. It is a splined round part that engages with the internal “pattern” of the carriage. Additionally, a connecting rod puller is also used if they are mounted on a square. This type of fastening of connecting rods is used on a large part of models, but on some bicycles squeezing is not necessary. Therefore, before purchasing, you should find out what type of mounting the connecting rods are to the carriage axle.

Cone wrenches are special devices for disassembling and adjusting the bearing compartment of bushings. Note that this only applies to bushings on the “embankment”. In fact, many bicycles have already switched to closed spaces.

A chain squeezer is an important and necessary tool that allows you to repair a chain even in the field. As you know, the Gall model is represented by rigidly interlocked rollers, which can only be separated by squeezing. The key is easy to use, does not require effort, it is easy to not only open, but also close the circuit. By the way, the tool may also be needed on chains with a lock if it breaks or needs to be shortened.

Bicycle chain disconnector in action

The transmission is a mechanical part that requires constant maintenance and repair. The greatest trouble is caused by complete replacement of cassettes. And if to remove the front ones you will need the same carriage puller, then for the rear ones you will need a special tool - a cassette puller.

The cassette remover allows you to remove the sprocket system from the hub axis. If the stars “sit” on a ratchet or are lined up with a regular cassette, different types of pullers will be required. An adjuster must be added to the tool, with which the removable key itself rotates.

And the cassette puller looks like an ordinary cup

The set is complemented by a whip - a holder for the stars when unwinding the puller from the axle. During rotation, serious efforts must be made, which causes the stars to turn. A whip is used to secure them. By the way, a colossal tightening torque will be required during assembly of the cassette.

A set of wrenches and hex keys, including pullers, will allow you to repair your bike yourself without the help of professional workshops. Experienced cyclists recommend taking all the equipment with you on long bike trips. Having the same chain squeezer or key of the required size in your backpack will help you quickly fix the problem and continue on your way.

Bicycle chain tensioners

A special bicycle chain tensioner can be an effective and useful accessory, the use of which allows you to maintain the necessary chain tension while riding. This accessory is used mainly by fans of extreme, aggressive driving.

Chain tensioners are usually installed on single-speed bicycle models. Such accessories consist of one or more rollers, a lever and a spring. Tensioners work on the principle of systematically pulling the bicycle chain in the required direction, which creates the required tension. Moreover, the presence of a tensioner prevents the chain from falling from the drive sprocket located on the bushing.

Experienced cyclists are advised to always have several chains in stock. Each of them should be operated with a rolling distance of no more than 600 km. After which the bicycle chain is replaced. A new, shortest one is put in its place. As a result, the life of not only all existing chains, but also the transmission of the two-wheeled vehicle is significantly extended.

Chain care

Regular cleaning and lubrication is the best way to extend the life of your chain. Use a special lubricant designed for bicycle chains. Lubricate each roller. Lubricate the chain only from the inside; there should be no lubricant on the outside.

Do not turn the chain in the opposite direction and apply lubricant in a hurry. In addition to increased consumption of the product, the links can be overloaded. Always remove excess grease with a rag. After riding in wet weather, wipe the chain dry and reapply lubricant. This will prevent rust and chain stretching.

Lock and solid chains

The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put it on - you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a split link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: there is a plier on top that fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer's inscription is usually stamped on the lock link. If you can’t find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.

Bicycle chain with lock

You can’t just disconnect a bicycle chain without a lock: all the links on it look the same, however, they are also interlocked. This causes great inconvenience during cleaning; for example, it is necessary to carry out “general cleaning” in a solvent. In the case of the keyhole, everything is simple - steal it and put it in kerosene. A solid bicycle chain, even removed from the sprockets, will remain hanging on the frame.

In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason the fastening may become loose: the pincer may fly off, and the link itself may come loose. Bicycle chains without locks do not have such weak points, and if it breaks, then the matter is solely in its quality.

Type 2: Chain lock with 2 symmetrical parts

The most common and convenient type of locks. Installed on almost all modern multi-speed bicycle chains. These locks are often difficult to remove. When I removed such a lock with my hands for the first time, my hands were bloody, but the lock remained in place. Most often found on KMC, Sram, FSA chains. Surprisingly, Shimano does not use such locks. Can be used for almost any number of speeds from 1 to 11.

How to install a chain lock with 2 symmetrical parts

Installing a lock is very simple. It does not need to be latched, since we will do this as soon as we press the pedal for the first time. But you can try pulling the chain in different directions to hear the click of the lock. The main thing is to make sure that all parts of the castle fit into each other.

How to remove a chain lock with 2 symmetrical parts

To remove the symmetrical lock, you will need regular pliers. We bend the chain so that it resembles the letter “P”, where the top of the letter is our lock. In this position, we need to press the lock with pliers diagonally (diagonally) to move the two parts of the lock (press with pliers from the sides where the pin comes out of the cheek). The method works perfectly! And the hands are intact, and it takes 15 seconds.

Watch the video for more details:

There is also a method of removal using hands, rope or cable - this is when the pins are wrapped with rope and then pulled together, but usually “tight” locks cannot be opened in this way.

When should you change your bicycle chain?

A good bicycle chain lubrication can significantly increase the service life of the entire system responsible for movement. At the same time, you need to be able to notice the moments when it begins to need maintenance or repair.

Excessive wear on a bicycle chain not only causes constant discomfort while riding, but also causes active deformation of the chainrings. If a worn chain is left unattended for a long period of time, it is guaranteed to lead to the need to replace a whole set of expensive mechanisms.

In order to assess its condition as objectively as possible, it is necessary to look not at the mileage, but first of all to measure the length of all its links. The chain length in normal condition is approximately 305 mm. The reason for its replacement is its stretching to 308 mm or more.

Top brands

Inexpensive pullers are offered by BikeHand, STG and ACME. They are made in Taiwan. Due to their good quality and affordable price, these devices are very popular.

More expensive instruments are produced by world-famous manufacturers: M-WAVE (international brand), CYCLO (England).

The most expensive, convenient and high-quality cassette pullers are SHIMANO (Japan). All of the listed manufacturers produce tools suitable for a set of sprockets from the same company.

BikeHand makes the best pullers.

Bikes without chain lock

To remove the part, use improvised means, performing the following manipulations:

• attach a regular vice to the table;
• The chain is fixed in them by placing a nut on one side so that the hole of the nut and the pin correspond;
• the screw is attached with a head on the opposite side;
• the pin is pushed into the nut hole when the vice is clamped with a ball.

Advice:

To remove a part, it is not enough to open only one side. You need to move the link to remove it or continue trying by adding a ball.

After a successful attempt (or an unsuccessful one), the cyclist understands how indispensable a squeeze is: if a chain with a lock that requires repair can be removed from the bicycle, then, regarding this part without a lock, it is extremely difficult to do this without a squeeze. The given instructions will help out in force majeure situations, but you need to work hard.

Video: How to disconnect, rivet, open a bicycle chain. Remove the lock.

Bikes equipped with locks

It is easy to check whether there is a chain lock. It is necessary to inspect the links. If one is found that is different from the rest, then it exists. The chain lock is released when the pins on the links are displaced. The procedure is performed by hand or using pliers. Assembly actions are carried out in the reverse order of disassembly.

How to shorten a chain without squeezing?

If there is no special tool, you can use any sharp object with a small enough diameter to push out the connecting pin. This could be a nail, an awl, or any other strong steel pin that can withstand a hammer blow. In addition, you will need a stand - for example, a brick.

You must act carefully so as not to bend the plates of the chain links. To ensure safety, the top plate must be supported by inserting a nut or other strong piece of metal inside the link. Most likely, the chain will first have to be removed from the bicycle. And for prevention, it will be possible to remove the rear wheel, clean it, lubricate it and install it in place.

Required Tools

Experts in the field of various life hacks and those who started cycling back in Soviet times recommend using a stone and a nail to disconnect the chain. But, since progress does not stand still, a special tool has long been created for this - the chaintool. It resembles a small vice without a frame. The cost of the device is more than affordable - 500–1000 rubles.

Practice shows that squeezes in “multitools” (especially cheap ones) can withstand a maximum of 3–5 uses. Therefore, for a multi-day hike in areas with difficult terrain, it is better to have a high-quality tool made of high-strength steel in your backpack.

The mechanism of action of the squeeze is extremely simple. The existing stop prevents the plates of the links on the chain from deforming and bending during the process of pushing out the connecting pin (pin). The rotary screw squeezes it out without applying significant effort.

In addition to the main tool, in order to shorten a bicycle chain, you will need rags, kerosene and any lubricant (for example, WD-40). Before starting work, the gear shift mechanism must be thoroughly cleaned. “Unprofessional” devices - a hammer, nuts, nails, and so on - are used only as a last resort.

Squeeze

Kerosene

WD-40