DIY motorbike. Bicycle motor

Using a bicycle for transport has a number of obvious advantages. It is inexpensive, environmentally friendly, and allows you to maintain good physical shape. With him, any trip turns into a pleasant walk. The daily route from home to work and back brings only pleasure, because the bike allows you to avoid traffic jams during rush hours and eliminates the need to storm crowded subway cars or buses.

But if your office is located at the other end of the city, the terrain of which consists of continuous ups and downs, then an easy walk turns into hard work, and every meter you walk reminds you of the torment of the first Christians. When you finally get to work, you feel tired and exhausted. Your body requires rest, but there is still a whole day of work ahead. The prospect of having to travel all the way in the opposite direction in the evening also does not help to lift your spirits. If you also don’t have the opportunity to take a shower, then the persistent smell of sweat will accompany you all day.

What to do if you don’t want to part with your bike, but looking for a job closer to home is also somehow out of your hands? In this case, you can purchase a bicycle with a motor or install a motor on an existing one. The industrially manufactured version does not require modifications, but is quite expensive and often has a not very attractive design. To reduce costs, manufacturers use cheap components and Hi-Ten frames in these bicycles. As a result, such a bike weighs more than 20 kg, and if the engine fails for any reason, it will be very difficult to move on it using pedals.

Apollo e-bikes

A homemade bicycle with a motor does not have these disadvantages. In the past, such devices were quite clunky and were used mainly by teenagers, but now the market offers a wide range of solutions with which you can turn an ordinary bike into a high-tech vehicle with your own hands. Such a modification will not require any serious technical knowledge, so you should opt for this option.

Details and structure of the unicycle

The structure of a unicycle consists of a wheel, connecting rods, frame, pedals and saddle. The difference between a unicycle wheel and a bicycle wheel is direct transmission - the axle and hub are combined, so the rotation of the pedals is directly transmitted to the wheel. The frame is similar to the fork of a two-wheeled bike, the saddle mount is located at the top of the frame. The steering wheel does not direct movement, but helps control the unicycle as an additional point of support.

Optional equipment:

• Trunk
• Klaxon
• Headlights
• Wing
• Reflectors
• Brake

Unicycle saddles differ from bicycle saddles; their ergonomics are designed for an upright rider position. There are no foot supports due to frequent jumps when losing balance.

Selecting your type

The main use of unicycles - performing acrobatic stunts in circuses - made it a circus stereotype. But among amateurs he has more and more fans every year. When choosing a bike for your daily walks, consider the terrain you plan to drive through.

Performing a trick

• For jumps and drops, structures made of durable metals are used; they are equipped with wide rubber that serves as a shock absorber.
• Freestyle. Models with a high fork are used here. The wheel diameter is selected according to the driver's height.
• Varieties for walking are equipped with tires with a large radius. This makes it possible to get more wheel revolutions with a small scroll.
• There are also mountain unicycles. Like the previous type, they are equipped with large, tall tires and durable components. Landing cushioning is essential when riding in this type of terrain.

There are less popular models. The simplest of them is ultimate. Essentially, it's a wheel and two pedals, no saddle or frame. The most high-tech ones are equipped with computers and other gadgets.

Modern manufacturers produce one-wheeled models for every taste. You can do it yourself or choose a ready-made design. But don't think you can buy it for half a bike. Professional unicycles cost good money.

Materials used from the site https://unicikl.ru.

Popular models of motorized sleds for fishing

The most popular models that are in demand include:

Half of the models will be discussed in more detail below.

Snowstorm

• The unit is quite simple to operate, even a beginner can operate it.
• The model is equipped with a pair of skis that can move on snow without any problems.
• Can be transported assembled in the trunk of a car.
• The transformation from assembled to disassembled takes only 3 minutes and can be done by one fisherman.
• The cost varies from 50,000 – 60,000 rubles and depends on the place of purchase and the manufacturer.

Tourist

• The design is quite durable and at the same time lightweight.
• It does not consume a lot of fuel, which is a definite plus.
• It starts even with a big minus on the street.
• The footrests are suitable for large shoes.
• You can purchase such a device for 80,000 – 95,000 rubles.

Husky

• Unlike the above, the smallest one can fit even in a small corridor.
• The initial assembly takes 2-3 minutes, and later, after getting used to it, this task can be done in a minute.
• It moves through snow that reaches half a meter in length.
• Perhaps an additional trailer attachment with which the motorcycles can transport 300 kilograms.
• Price 50 – 55 thousand rubles.

How to choose a unicycle?

First you need to decide on the type of ride, and according to this criterion, choose the type of unicycle. The optimal wheel sizes for beginners were discussed above, but this is not the only criterion - the size of the unicycle must match the length of your leg. You need to choose according to the length from the crotch to the floor in the shoes, and not according to the measurement of the trousers:

You also need to decide what you want to do on your unicycle. A short guide to wheel sizes:

• 12″: designed for preschool children, not really suitable for outdoor activities, it needs a flat surface. By the way, the smallest unicyclist was only 18 months old.
• 16″: unicycle for children from 5 to 8 years old, suitable only for ideal road surfaces or indoors.
• 20″: The most popular size, ideal for both training and sports. There are many tires sold in this diameter. Such models are already quite fast and suitable for tricks, but they are also easy to store and transport.
• 24″: A universal size among adult unicycles. Good for outdoors and rough terrain, but great for indoors. It's too big for freestyle and tricks, but it's suitable for training and Muni.
• 29″: a good diameter for long trips, the large wheel is fast and smooth on the road surface. For trained riders.
• 36″: Ideal for long walks, everyday riding and speed riding. Not for beginners.

If the wheel is too small for you, riding it will feel like riding a child's tricycle. With a big one there are other problems - it is difficult to maintain balance and maneuver. The choice of frame height is no less important - a seat stand that is too high will not allow you to control the unicycle steadily, a small stand will make you feel like a clown in the circus and will cause pain in your knees.

A few words about unicycle saddles. The seat for a touring model and regular riding should be wider, like the Kris Holm Freeride Saddle. Stunt models are equipped with narrow saddles, and freestyle ones are also equipped with plastic ones.

Long legs are not a death sentence. Buy a higher frame to suit your dimensions for any wheel. It’s nice that there are no weight restrictions for unicyclists. If you are heavier than 100kg, just choose a Muni or a fortified freestyle.

Free control

Now it’s time to learn how to ride using pedals. Select medium gear and gradually increase your speed while performing the previous exercise (one-leg push off the ground). The distance traveled will increase, and the bike will no longer fall on its side. This is a great time to put your other foot on the pedal and start revving. After several attempts and a couple of rotations, you will definitely understand that the question of how to learn to ride a bicycle is no longer troubling.

In cases where a friend or instructor helps you master the bike, there is another teaching method. They must support the vehicle by the frame or saddle and run behind it. Over time, the bike quietly releases and the movements become completely independent. The main thing is not to panic, otherwise you will fall.

The next step is to learn how to turn. This can be done not only by the steering wheel, but also by tilting the body. The first option is good to use at low and medium speeds, and the second - at high speeds. You need to start with short radii, aiming for wider and longer ones.

Having done all the exercises confidently, increase the distance. Set a goal to drive 100m in one direction, then turn around and get to the start. If everything went well, you can fully enjoy riding, improving your skills in daily walks.

What does a unicycle bike consist of and its varieties?

When a person unfamiliar with the term “unicycle” hears this word, complex associations may arise in his imagination, even to some unusual motorcycle. In fact, this is the simplest design:

• wheel;
• pedals;
• drive carriage mechanism;
• “frame” – adjustable stand;
• seat.

This is what a classic unicycle looks like, where not only is there no second wheel, but there is also no steering wheel, brake or drive chain. Riding it requires constant pedaling and precise balancing.

However, the classic is just a standard; in fact, there are other varieties:

• unicycle with steering;
• a one-wheeled bike with brakes under the seat;
• combined option – steering wheel + disc brake;
• with chain drive;
• electric unicycle.

The listed options are equipped with additional devices for an easier and safer ride. Another modification of the standard one-wheeler is called the ultimate, which consists only of a wheel and pedals.

A very interesting model is the “hamster wheel”, or introcycle - the cyclist is inside. The drive is located in sliding engagement with the wheel, due to which it moves freely.

The history of introcycles dates back to the 19th century (designer - Lewis Harper)

Unicycles with brakes and steering are equipped with freewheel hubs to allow coasting. The brake is performed only in the disc version, since it is impossible to brake with “pedals backwards” on a unicycle, and there is nothing to hook the rim structure onto. The claw is located under the saddle or on the handlebars (for bikes with steering).

Electric unicycle – wheel motor with footrests

The speed of a unicycle is directly affected by the diameter of the rim, since the geometry of the frame is reduced to a minimum, and in the case of the ultimate, the frame is completely absent. The dependence of speed on wheel size on classic monobikes is especially clearly expressed:

A unicycle is inferior in speed to a standard bicycle, and only a 36-inch wheel puts it on par with a full-fledged bike.

Some more practical tips

Youtube is full of videos where the wheel, after an unsuccessful ride, rushes, somersaulting, for dozens of meters. And with a leash, the wheel will be more intact and passers-by will not be harmed.

• In the last pictures you saw how the wheel rests on your leg. If there are no soft pads on the wheel, you need to either install them or put soft pads (such as knee pads) on your legs to protect the inside of the shin. Otherwise, you are guaranteed to suffer and get some serious bruises during your studies. By the way, while studying, it is advisable to wear protective equipment for the knees, elbows, hands, gloves and a helmet, and at speeds of more than 20 km/h it is already mandatory. With the bones on the feet, the footpegs also sometimes come into noticeable contact - boots or high boots would not hurt first time.
• How to put your foot on the wheel stand? For better handling - close to the wheel. And in the longitudinal direction - in the middle of the footrest. If you move your foot more forward, the wheel will gain speed more actively, but it will be more difficult to brake. If the foot is shifted more back, it will be easier to brake and more difficult to accelerate. (More difficult - I meant you will have to tilt your body more.) Over time, you will determine a comfortable position for yourself.

Tools and materials

To carry out assembly work independently, you need a certain list of tools and materials.

You will need several tools.

• Welding machine. It is needed for joining metal, making it possible to obtain a reliable connection. To work with a welding unit, you need certain equipment, in particular, electrodes, as well as protective equipment.
• An angle grinder (grinder) is an indispensable tool when working with metals. It is necessary for dividing workpieces into separate parts. For the grinder, you need to select special attachments that will be required for working with certain materials.
• Electric drill - for making holes.
• A set of wrenches for working with fasteners.

From materials and units we will need:

• appropriate motor for certain operating conditions;
• profile and round pipe for constructing a skeleton (frame);
• wheels on the chassis.

How to learn to ride a unicycle?

Theory alone won’t do it, but there are several really important details when mastering a unicycle:

1. You must learn to keep your weight on the saddle and not on the pedals.
2. You need to sit perfectly straight, as if the stand is an extension of your tailbone.
3. Once you start moving, keep pedaling—the forward momentum helps you maintain your balance.
4. The ideal place for the first training is a narrow long corridor in which you can reach both walls.
5. Don't look down, just forward. This rule works wherever it is necessary to maintain balance.

An excellent article on the topic of learning to ride a unicycle on the jugglers website, I highly recommend reading it. The author of the article interviews several professional unicyclists, and each of them describes in detail their method of training. We can say that this link is a comprehensive theory that remains only to be tested in practice. Everyone says that mastering a unicycle is not difficult, but learning is not linear - a breakthrough happens after several unsuccessful attempts and everything goes like clockwork.

Family active holiday on unicycles

Didn't say anything about prices. The cheapest unicycle of the Beginner level costs about $80, the most expensive of the Kris Holm series is $770. I often see almost new used unicycles for sale on flea market sites, for some symbolic money. It makes sense to start even with a used bike to understand whether it is for you or not.

Motor sleighs for winter fishing - pros and cons

The advantages of purchasing this device include:

1. Relatively small size;
2. A wide range of models, in which you can choose a heated steering wheel, as well as a power source for higher consumption;
3. Can carry multiple passengers;
4. There is a pocket under the seat where you can store accessories rather than carrying them in your hands;
5. Can be stored in a small room;
6. Lightweight design that you can make yourself;
7. With proper use and storage it can last for a long time;
8. Rapid transformation from an assembled state to a disassembled state and, accordingly, vice versa.

How to catch more fish?

The disadvantages are:

• High cost, which is not always affordable for a fisherman;
• The minimum size of the tank, which does not hold much fuel, you need to have a tank with a reserve so as not to get stuck far from a crowded place.

Learning to keep balance

The baby can learn this in two ways:

1. Start straight away with a two-wheeled bicycle. This method is well suited for areas with a lot of unevenness.
2. Teach your child to ride a runbike. This is a mini-copy of a bicycle, which is distinguished by the absence of pedals. There are two types of runbikes:
   small-sized, toy ones that you can ride around the yard or apartment;
3. large, similar to a real bicycle, suitable for riding in the yard and street, they can be rented in various parks.

Small runbike

Such bicycles look bright and funny, so the child will certainly be captivated by the idea of ​​riding such a vehicle. There is another significant plus - the leg muscles will be prepared for the tension that will arise when pedaling a bicycle.

If you want to teach your child to balance on a simple bicycle, then follow this plan of action.

1. When the child is already confidently sitting on a bicycle, teach him how to get on and off it correctly. Then tilt the bike in different directions so that the child places his foot on the ground on the side of the inclination, placing emphasis on it and preventing himself from falling.
2. Encourage your child to balance on his own. Let go of the bike and let your baby put his feet on the pedals. When tilting the bicycle, the child must orient himself and lean on the ground with his foot. Provide support if necessary.
3. Now start learning how to use the brake. This can be difficult because your child may find it easier to brake with their feet or jump out of the seat than to use the pedal. The brake must be a foot brake, not a hand brake, so that the child does not accidentally press the hand brake at the wrong moment.
4. When learning to brake, carry a bicycle with your child sitting on it and ask him to apply the brake and immediately place his foot on the ground. As soon as your child presses the brake pedal, release the bike.

Homemade go-kart with a chainsaw engine

The main difference between a chainsaw go-kart and a motorbike is that it is designed for higher speeds and therefore has a more rigid four-wheel design. Therefore, the most important element is not the engine, but the frame - it will have to be made by hand, and not just bolted together, but welded.

Body

1. It is recommended to use a square or round pipe for the frame - it has higher bending resistance and rigidity than a regular profile or angle. In general, you need to use several sizes: a thick pipe with a diameter of 25 mm for the chassis beams, 20 mm round timber for the frame and engine support platform, 15-20 mm pipe for the seat and other components.
2. Draw a drawing of your future kart, take careful measurements, and only then start making a kart with a chainsaw engine. There are tons of different templates online. Recommended parameters – from 1300 to 1800 mm long, from 760 to 1000 mm wide. The center distance is approximately ¾ of the total length of the kart.
3. Proceed with assembly. The structure should not be purely welded - for example, the rear axle should be movable and rotate freely, so it will have to be secured through a support bracket. Otherwise, the chainsaw kart will turn very poorly and have insufficient controllability. You don’t have to bother and buy ready-made support-bearing units - it will be easier and more reliable.
4. Making a seat. This is also not as simple as it seems - when passing a sharp turn, the driver can easily fall out of the seat. You can use a homemade seat made of metal or plywood, as long as it provides a tight fit.

Motor and transmission

Choosing a motor is a simple matter. The more powerful the engine, the faster the homemade chainsaw go-kart will go. Power 2-3 hp. it will be enough to accelerate to 20-30 km/h - nothing more is required from such equipment. By the way, you can make a go-kart from a chainsaw, or from a trimmer.

1. Before installing the motor, prepare a platform at the rear of the frame on which the motor will be installed.
2. Drill holes in the motor casing for fasteners that will coincide with the holes on the platform.
3. The motor pulley must coincide on the axis with the working pulley.
4. The sprocket can be used from the chainsaw itself, but you will have to sharpen it a little.
5. A chain is used for the transmission, but in some cases it is possible to use a pulley with a V-belt - it is cheaper, and in many respects it is not inferior to a chain.
6. Place a gas tank next to the engine - a plastic or metal container with a volume of 2-3 liters.

Steering and braking system

1. The pedal assembly is easy to make. Cut out pedal models from a metal sheet; for the feet, use an 8-10 mm metal pond. Lay the control cables so that they do not interfere with your feet and lie flat - otherwise, the cable may break.
2. The brake must be a foot brake. You can, of course, make it manually, but this will only complicate the design. The brake disc must be attached directly to the frame, and the brake caliper must be attached to the wheel. In a homemade version of a go-kart with a chainsaw engine, you can install brakes only on the rear drive wheels, but if you are doing a “high-speed” version, install brakes on the front axle as well.
3. Steering. One of the most difficult aspects is making the front wheels turn. Here you will have to use swivel brackets, to which you need to attach the steering rack. The rack itself is connected to a thick rod, onto the top of which the steering wheel itself is placed.

Chassis

For the chassis, you can use any wheels you have on hand. The front ones can be taken with a smaller diameter, and the rear ones with a larger diameter. But at the same time, estimate the power of the motor - if the motor is weak, then there simply won’t be enough torque. So here we will have to find out everything experimentally. As a rule, the wheel diameter does not exceed 250-400 mm.

Turning a bicycle into a unicycle

Curious experimenters will certainly be interested in how to make a bicycle with one wheel with their own hands. An unnecessary two-wheeled bicycle sits in the corner of the garage. Throw it away or give it a second life? Let's use the second option and do it in an unusual way - turn it into a unicycle.

To modify a two-wheeled bike into a one-wheeled one, we use the formula:

Bicycle minus front wheel, diamond and handlebars = unicycle

To work you will need:

• keys for removing the steering wheel and fork;
• connecting rod and carriage pullers;
• metal cutting;
• sandpaper;
• welding machine;
• vice.

Since the work will be dusty, we stock up on a set of napkins and kerosene.

Let's get started: 1. Completely free the frame: remove the fork, wheels, connecting rods, chain.

2. Using a metal cutter, cut off the back and front parts of the frame. In our work we only need a seat tube with a carriage and a front fork.

A unicycle is assembled from this

3. Expand the fork in a vice under the rear wheel.

4. Clean the paint from the bottom of the carriage cup, then cut a circle with the diameter of the fork tube.

5. At the upper end of the fork, cut a hole to fit the circumference of the carriage cup. By the way, before welding you need to disassemble the carriage.

6. Weld the front fork with the carriage cup. Next, you need to check the strength of the weld under load: fix the ends of the structure on two chairs, place the welded unit in the middle of the canopy and lay a brick. You can also stand on the structure. The welding must not break, otherwise repeat the procedure.

Be sure to check the weld seam

7. Install the carriage and connecting rods with the drive sprocket.

8. Attach the rear wheel to the fork dropouts.

9. Pull the chain between the sprockets. Remove links on a chain that is too long using a wringer.

The do-it-yourself unicycle is ready - we got a unicycle with a chain drive. In addition to this, this bike can be coasted.

What does it take to make a moped from a chainsaw and a bike?

For the most part, converting a bicycle into a moped with your own hands by attaching a chainsaw motor to it does not require any special skills of a mechanic or engineer. If you are new to this business, then numerous drawings of a moped made from a chainsaw, as well as educational video reviews, will help you. Also, not every man has everything he needs in his garage to make a motorbike from a chainsaw with his own hands. Therefore, before assembly, it is recommended to study the list of necessary parts, fasteners and spare parts and buy the missing elements.

Moped

In specialty stores you can find entire kits that include a ready-to-install engine, fasteners and other parts that are necessary to transform a bicycle into a moped. This kit will greatly facilitate the process of assembling a motorcycle, since there is no need to select an engine, suitable power, fasteners, battery, transmission belt, cable, etc.

Assembly instructions and drawings of a homemade moped

Firstly, we will first look at the simplest and most affordable option for how to make a moped from a chainsaw from the photo above. When assembling, the question often arises of how to install a chainsaw motor on a bicycle.

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It is important that it is securely attached and does not move while riding. For this type of homemade motorcycle, you need to secure the following parts with clamps in certain places:

• the battery is installed on the top tube;
• the chainsaw bicycle motor itself is mounted at the intersection of the lower front and seat tubes;
• fuel tank - near the engine.

The next step in the conversion is to create and install the pulleys on the bike. They are needed so that engine operation provokes rotation of the rear wheel. Typically, pulleys use external barrier wheels, which are about the size of CDs.

DIY moped

When selecting wheels, take into account the strength and reliability of both the material itself and the fasteners. To install the pulleys, the front wheel is attached to the motor shaft, and the second pulley is attached to the rear wheel hub.

Next you need to put the belt on the pulleys. Sometimes men use a chain instead of a belt. In this case, the pulleys are replaced with a chain, and the principle of its installation is no different.

If we talk about a more complex option, then as a result you will get a homemade vehicle that is most similar to a real motorcycle. The main differences from the previous design are a more reliable and durable frame, wider wheels that can be removed from an old moped, the presence of shock absorption and the installation of an engine from a chainsaw.

The most convenient place for the engine will be a separate platform welded at the bottom of the frame. You can also place a fuel tank there. An exhaust pipe is also attached to the engine. As for the battery, owners of homemade mopeds recommend placing it closer to the steering wheel. The next step will also be the transmission and connecting the engine. You can watch all the nuances of how to properly make a motorcycle from a chainsaw with your own hands in the video.

Assembly steps

So, the future unicycle lover should have at his disposal an old two-wheeled bicycle and a set of tools.

Wheel, fork, saddle and pedals

It is important to immediately decide on the method in which you will make your new hobby. There are two generally accepted ones:

• based on an extended front fork;
• using the rear triangle

We will briefly consider the first option. You will need a carriage, pedals, saddle, bearings and some other components. Particularly creative creators design their two-wheeled vehicles with a steering wheel, which is brought forward by welding.

Remove the fork and widen it slightly at the base. Experts recommend a fixed width of about 130 mm. The rear wheel will be installed in it. You can use different wheel diameters, some models have less than 12 mm. We clean the carriage of all unnecessary parts. Only the seat tube should remain on it. The main spare parts for the unicycle are ready. In the next step you will need welding as these parts need to be connected. Drill a hole in the upper part of the fork with a diameter equal to the diameter of the carriage

Use special drills, but if you decide to work with improvised means, then a round file is perfect. At this stage it is important to align the chain line. It should be perfectly straight

Aligns along the axes of the carriage and the top of the fork. Having connected both parts through a pre-made socket, proceed to welding.

The next step in assembling a unicycle with your own hands is to create a fixed gear. If a unicycle has a large number of gears, it will be difficult to control. This implies the absence of stars of different diameters. The pedals are attached to the wheel in both directions. The usual rear brakes are missing. You can ride both forward and backward. Braking on a unicycle requires certain skills. The brake is controlled by changing the direction of pressure on the pedals. Overclocking works on the same principle. Of course, high technology has done its job, you can buy a model with brakes, but we are talking about classics here. The parts that complete the hub are securely attached there: connecting rods, rim, spokes and others. There are several ways to set up fixed gear. The simplest and not the most accurate is to weld a ratchet.

The main problem with unicycles: chain drop

Most products of this kind have one problem. The chain falls on them. Moreover, minor differences in length can make riding a unicycle impossible. So the next step is to add dropouts. Weld them to the bottom and bolt them to the top through special holes. This will fix the straight line of the chain, not necessarily that it will work, but try it.

Additionally, this problem is created by the presence of stars in different planes or their backlash. Professional unicyclists recommend using 28-tooth sprockets.

A good way would be to change the position of the front fork. Adjusting the angle will either tighten the chain or loosen it.

Special attention should be paid to the saddle. On a unicycle, the load goes along the spine and ease of landing is an important component of unicycles

DIY motorbike

DIY motorbike

I’m not a fan of high-speed driving: 40-50 km/h in the vicinity of the dacha is quite fast for me. And in order to move one hundred kilograms of “my majesty”, neither exorbitant power nor the elephantine mass of the carrying “piece of iron” is needed. Someone will advise: well, take a fifty-kopeck scooter! Firstly, the “stools” are a bit expensive. Secondly, in a village where there is a dacha, this is “equipment until the first breakdown” - it’s unlikely that 300 km from the city I can easily find an imported spare part if necessary. Thirdly, the scooter weighs a lot: how can you transport it to your dacha in a passenger car? Drive under your own power? Not funny! After 300 km of travel I will be left without arms, without legs, without a fifth point...

Two “idlers” who have become related are going to the dacha. When I was thinking about this, I came across the article “We’re riding standing up” in “Moto” No. 9, 2005. The author told how he adapted a “cheap” motor to a scooter. I was hooked and I rushed to the bike market. But the trouble is, the sellers unanimously claimed that they were not releasing the “cheap” product now (maybe they were lying?). I don’t know how it would have ended, but I remembered “Mole”. The one that “lives” in my dacha and cultivates the soil for only two days a year: one in May, the second in September. Its 60 cc two-stroke is twice as powerful as the “cheap” one - 2.6 “horses” versus 1.3. Assembled with gas tank, muffler, manual starter, air filter and gearbox. And I decided to adapt it to another “idler” - a folding bicycle that had been gathering dust on the mezzanine for three years.

Gas lever (indicated by arrow). I made a shelf from a 5mm duralumin sheet and installed it instead of the rear trunk. It is held in a vertical plane by two racks from an old bicycle. In the longitudinal one there is a hole with which it is put on the pipe; a saddle is fixed in the hole. And the lateral stability of the structure is guaranteed by the slope on the right side. The motor was screwed onto this fairly rigid structure with four bolts.

On the left of the steering wheel: 1 — clutch release lever; 2 — lock lever; 3 — ignition switch button. The drive to the rear wheel was made by a belt, with a tension roller from the timing belt of the VAZ-V8. The drive pulley was left standard, and the driven one matched the gear ratio from the MB walk-behind tractor. It is aluminum, two-strand. On a lathe I cut off the extra stream - the one that is wider. How do you attach the pulley to the wheel? I found another pulley (the inclination of the side surfaces of most pulleys corresponds to the angle of inclination of the spokes), and made cuts in it with a “grinder” that coincided with the crosshairs of the spokes. I installed it exactly in the center of the wheel using a special bushing. I drilled holes in it and bolted it to the spokes through large washers. And I already screwed the driven pulley to it with three screws. The gear ratio turned out to be extremely successful. And one more thing: the drive pulley is double, and next to the engine on the shelf there is enough space for a small generator. Do you catch the thread?

Clutch mechanism: 1 - cable; 2 - plate; 3 - bolts - guide plates; 4 - roller; 5 - springs. The Mole does not have a clutch mechanism. Why not transfer this function to a belt drive? To do this, the roller tensioning the belt was not fixed rigidly - it was constantly pressed by a spring. If you squeeze it and move the roller away, the belt slips. Here's your clutch! The clutch release lever is homemade. The free play of the plate with the roller is as much as 7 cm (this is with a margin - after all, the belt stretches out over time), and for motorcycle clutch levers it is no more than 2 cm. What happened can be seen in the photo. The disadvantage of the design is that you have to directly, without a reinforcing arm, “fight” with the springs of the tension roller. But this can be tolerated - my car does not have a gearbox, so I have to operate the clutch lever very rarely - only during starts and stops. The lever in the clamped position secures a small locking lever. It helps out when you need to disengage the clutch for a long time, for example, when riding “like a bicycle.” Instead of a clutch cable, I inserted a thin steel wire lubricated with lithol into the braid. The braid does not have sharp bends, so the wire moves easily in it. The main advantage of such a replacement is that the wire is much more reliable than the cable that is in short supply in the village.

The main component is under the baseball cap. The front and rear brakes are regular bicycle brakes. The rest of the controls on the steering wheel are standard ones from the Mole: on the left there is a “jammer”, on the right under the thumb there is a gas lever. Conducted tests in December. Starting the motor with a cord. I started using the pedals. Two or three turns and you can forget about them. By the way, the forced cooling fan of the “Mole” ensures that the motor does not overheat at low speed. I asked a car driver I knew to drive in sync with me to record the speed. It turned out that the “maximum speed” is over 60 km/h. But such a speed seemed dangerous to me - it was a bicycle after all. And at 40 km/h it’s pure pleasure! For this engine, “forty” is a walking mode. Any rise is a trifle for him.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 — machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers. What did I get? What I wanted. In the trunk of my Zhiguli, it’s easy to put an individual folding vehicle weighing 32 kg (bicycle - 20, motor - 12), capable of moving “my majesty” at a speed of 60 km/h and a little faster. Assembly and disassembly takes five to ten minutes. Gasoline consumption is no more than 2-2.5 liters per 100 km. There is nothing to break in my design. In stock it is enough to keep a belt, one or two meters of steel wire and a tension roller from the “eight”! And as a last resort, there are pedals. Sorry for the technological flaws that are visible in the photo - I was in a hurry to share the idea, I didn’t have time to refine everything. No problem, I'll finish it.

This is how the driven pulley is attached to the wheel: 1 - driven pulley; 2 — machined pulley; 3 - bolts with large washers.

Common data:

• dry weight - 32 kg,
• length - 1830 mm,
• height - 1100 mm,
• seat height - 850-950 mm,
• width - 600 mm,
• base - 1230 mm,
• ground clearance - 180 mm,
• gas tank volume - 1.8 l,
• maximum speed is more than 60 km/h.

Engine - “Mole”, displacement - 60 cm3, power - 2.6 hp, carburetor - K60V. Transmission: homemade belt drive, belt - 1400 mm, drive pulley - standard 60 mm, outer diameter of the driven pulley - 255 mm (optimal for a wheel diameter of 600 mm). Chassis: folding bicycle "Impulse". Tires: front and rear - 47-507. Brakes: standard bicycle brakes. Electrical equipment: not yet available.

Author: Pavel ORLOV, Moscow

Learning to ride a tricycle

The first step is choosing a bike that is suitable for your height. To do this, you need the baby to sit on it. If the child lets his entire foot fall to the ground and can slightly bend his knees, then you have chosen the right bike. Show that if a bicycle is carried like a stroller, it can move. To make it even more convincing, place a teddy bear on the seat. Let your child drive the toy “rider” himself, turning the steering wheel in the process and studying the features of movement. And only then invite the baby to take his rightful place and begin learning. If the area of ​​the apartment allows, open the first highway there. Place your child's hands on the steering wheel and place little feet on the pedals. Hold him by the hips and demonstrate how your legs move as you ride. Now let him try it himself, and you push him from behind. On a tricycle, a child learns a simple skill - movement occurs when the pedals rotate. At the next stage, you can already go for walks. A stadium or school yard with a flat surface and no other transport is best suited for them.

Now children's attention is completely focused on the pedals, so the baby will go anywhere without choosing a direction. The baby will begin to master conscious control only after he has developed the ability to pedal to the point of automaticity. Although some parents first teach how to use the steering wheel, and only then transfer the child’s attention to the pedals

There is not much difference, you just need to teach both skills step by step, since the child cannot yet drive and steer at the same time. Remember that your classes should not last more than half an hour. And if the baby is capricious and refuses to continue training, do not insist. Postpone training until a better time.

Mastering a two-wheeled bicycle

So, the time has come to switch to a more advanced form of transport - a two-wheeled bicycle. Most often this happens at four years of age.

1. Adjust the bicycle seat so that the preschooler, sitting on it, can reach his feet to the ground. When the child learns to sit confidently in the saddle, he can again be raised to the required height.
2. Some adults use the side wheels for safety. However, in the opinion of many experienced parents, they should not be used, since with them the child does not learn to maintain balance. They are acceptable if the children have not previously trained on a tricycle.
3. At the next stage, turn the bicycle into a scooter by temporarily removing one pedal from the iron horse. The child accelerates by pushing off the ground with one foot and leaning on the pedal with the other. At the same time, he must still hold the steering wheel with both hands. In this simple way, the baby improves the ability to maintain balance.
4. We return the pedals to their place and try to ride a bike with your support. Do not hold the vehicle by the steering wheel or seat. Just follow your baby, holding him by the shoulders.
5. Don't forget to teach your child how to get off the bike correctly. First, teach how to tilt it towards you, while at the same time resting your foot on the ground. Try the same exercise on the other side of the bike.
6. Another mandatory point is the ability to brake. Roll the bike with your baby and ask him to brake. Immediately release the vehicle and make sure that the child puts his foot on the ground after braking.

Learning to ride a bike should be a positive and rewarding experience for your little one. Therefore, you should not put off buying an iron horse until later. Perhaps the child’s genuine interest and delight will infect everyone in the household, and soon mom and dad will also become avid cyclists.

READ ALSO: 10 best models of tricycles for children

Engine selection

Most often, an old chainsaw is used as the basis for making a motorbike with your own hands. Or rather, its engine. But here there are some restrictions. You should not take engines from small and light saws. They have too little power. Suitable for a bicycle is a motor whose power is above 2 liters. With. (or 1.5 kW). And the higher this value, the better it will be. But even at this value, the bike will be able to accelerate to 30-35 km/h.

When choosing an engine, you should also pay attention to the volume. In accordance with the Vienna Convention, this value should not exceed 50 cubes. Only in this case, a license and registration of the vehicle will not be needed. The motorized bicycle will fall into the category “bicycles with a suspended engine.”

Another advantage of such an engine is the absence of the smell of gasoline. The motor has virtually no smell, which allows you to store the bike at home. But there is also a drawback. It consists in the characteristic sound of a working chainsaw. The sound of a running engine will accompany you throughout the entire trip.