The old masters made their own paints and brushes. The technology for making brushes is not complicated, but it is responsible and requires delicacy. This is an unusual business, so few people know the secrets of this craft. However, you can make brushes even at home. So, what is the technology for making art brushes?
1. Harvesting hair or bristles.
The hair of animals contains down and straight hair, which is thicker than down and stiffer. I wrote about what hair and what animals classic brushes for painting are made from. When harvesting hair, you need to sort it by length. The hair bundle should consist of hair of approximately the same length. The ends of your hair should never be cut. I wrote why this is important.
2. Forming the basis of the future brush.
Next, the hairs in the hair bundle are aligned in some small cylindrical vessel. The bottom of such a vessel should be flat. The hair descends with its trimmed part to the bottom of the cylinder. Now, it needs to be leveled by gently tapping the bottom of the cylinder on the table. The hairs will settle and become even. After this, they are tied into a bun and combed with a fine-toothed comb to remove unnecessary hairs.
3. Degreasing and tanning.
Degreasing is carried out by soaking the hair bundle in gasoline for 3 days. After this, it is washed with clean gasoline and dried. After which, the workpiece should be boiled in a 10% solution of potassium alum. This is called tanning. Tanning is necessary in order to make the hair non-hygroscopic, flexible and durable.
4. Hardening.
This procedure is necessary to give elasticity to the hair. The hair of a painting brush should be moderately elastic and hard, moderately elastic. To harden, the hair of the future brush is wrapped in thin paper, for example, newspaper and tied with thread. Next, the hair is hardened in an oven with hot air at a temperature of 150 degrees. This is done for about an hour. The time and temperature are not the same for different types of hair and depend on their type. The temperature can be determined by the color of the paper: if it turns slightly yellowish, then the temperature is insufficient. If it turns brown, the temperature is over 150 degrees. In this case, the hair will become brittle, so do not exceed the temperature. After the initial hardening, the hair is combed to remove unnecessary hairs and the hardening is repeated. The quality of hardening is checked by wetting the future brush in water. If the hairs on the surface of the bundle become curly, then the hardening is insufficient.
5. Knitting the brush.
After all procedures, the hair bundle is untied and placed in a cone of the appropriate size with the hair ends down. Next, tapping the cone on the table, you need to straighten the hair. The hair bun should take on a conical shape (if the brush should be round or elliptical). After giving the desired shape, short and unnecessary hairs are combed out of the hair. Then the hair bundle is finally tied with thread. The bandaged area is impregnated with glue.
6. Securing the hair in the capsule.
The capsule is a metal part of the hand that looks like a conical tube. The hair bundle is placed into the capsule on its wide side, after which the hair inside the capsule is filled with glue. (By the way, capsules can be used from old and damaged brushes, after first clearing it of glue and hair.) The length of the hair of the future brush must be adjusted depending on its purpose. Too long hair makes the brush soft and unable to hold its shape well, but it is flexible and holds a large amount of paint. On the contrary, short hair will make your brush hard and unyielding.
7. Securing the capsule to the handle.
Finally, the capsule is placed on a wooden handle. First, glue is instilled into the capsule. After this, the capsule is pressed onto a wooden handle. The brush handle can be tinted, painted and varnished.
If you do everything correctly, the brush will turn out no worse than the factory one. Therefore, I wish you success in this rare craft!
If you have firmly decided to become a nail art guru or at least learn how to perform some popular techniques, then you cannot do without brushes. After all, they are used for almost any design! From this article you will learn the basic truths: what types of manicure brushes there are, which ones are useful for what, and get the simplest lessons on how to use them.
What brushes are needed for manicure: fluffy classification
If you go to the store unprepared, the variety of brushes can easily confuse you. Different thickness and shape, price category, how to figure it out?
The first classification is by purpose. Simply put, there are tools for extensions, and there are tools for nail art. So, if you just want to practice with non-trivial patterns, then the range of choices narrows.
Otherwise, brushes are divided according to three criteria:
- Material of manufacture. It can be artificial or natural. It is clear that the latter costs more. The best brushes are made from sable or kolinsky (this is a predatory animal). But, to be honest, in practice they are not much different, except that natural ones last longer.
- Pile thickness. The thinnest one is indicated by the numbers 0 or 00, and the plumpest one will have the sign 8.
- Form . There are instruments with a pile a little thicker than a hair, and there are those that open like a fan, and they all have their own purpose.
Types of manicure brushes: which one is for what?
It is logical that the thinner the brush, the more elegant the patterns they paint with it. But this conclusion will not take you far, so it is better to familiarize yourself with all the types and nuances of use.
Spot
The accumulation of villi makes the tip look like a pike. This silhouette is convenient for drawing the smallest details. They are used to draw flower buds, lace, shell edges... How to use it? Hold the brush vertically and dip only the tip into the polish. Having placed a point, stretch it, forming a pattern. The set may include a dotting brush, bent like a boomerang; it makes painting a little easier.
A short video will clearly show the “spot work”:
Liner (aka “hair” and “stripe”)
This is a round thin brush with bristles a couple of centimeters long. It is used to draw long lines or curls. A set usually contains 3 such brushes.
The longest ones are more convenient for drawing strips, and the shorter ones are suitable for curved parts of the design. To do this, you need to dip the entire pile into varnish, blot off the excess and paint.
The liner is indispensable for fashionable geometry, monograms and drawing stems.
Video tutorial with liner:
Flat brush
It has a wide working surface, the tip is evenly cut. Suitable for drawing flowers, gzhel, gradient, distributing glitter, powder, rubbing.
Several techniques with it can be seen here:
Beveled (dagger-shaped)
Because of the pile cut at a 45-degree angle, it received this second name. It is universal in that it allows you to draw both three-dimensional drawings and thin patterns. An angled brush is great for a French manicure. In addition, you can put several colors on it at once and create compositions in the style of Chinese painting.
Petal
It immediately looks like a flat dagger brush and a dot brush. The shape is flat, tapering towards the end. The petal handles both small drawings and painting, brings out French smiles, and even applies glitter.
If your point and bevel brushes become unusable, then the petal is just the right tool to replace the other two at once.
Fan
As the name suggests, the brush looks like a fan, as the bristles spread out in a semicircle. It is used to create a design with glitter, scoop and sprinkle acrylic powder, and create a gradient.
Abstract and landscape compositions are also depicted with a fan.
This video tutorial will show you an easy way to apply glitter evenly with a fan brush:
Dots
The rod is crowned with a small ball. By dipping it in paint, you can not only make polka dot nails, but also draw monograms, flowers, and lace. Depending on the diameter of the ball, dots can replace a dotting brush and liner.
For extension
Such tools are much thicker and wider than the above ones, so that it is convenient to pick up and lay out gel or acrylic. They are made from synthetic materials.
Here is the entire list of necessary brushes for a nail artist. They can bring any nail art to life.
Developing grip strength
Don’t worry about how to pump up your hands at home – it’s quite convenient to do this at home.
Exercises for arms and hands do not require special equipment. If you go to the gym, that’s great, but you can do without it in this situation. So, let's find out how to pump up your hands.
The very first and simplest exercise, which is performed, including as rehabilitation after serious injuries associated with rupture of muscles and nerves, is the usual clenching of the hand into a fist.
It is done like this:
- In any position (standing, sitting, lying down), clench your fists as tightly as possible. Hold the tension for 5-7 seconds.
- Open your palm, trying to straighten your fingers as much as possible.
Believe it or not, this exercise is difficult for some. After complex operations, a person learns to move his fingers again. It is with such exercises that rehabilitation begins.
If your hands are completely healthy and you have not received any injuries, work with a wrist expander. At the first stage, you can use a rubber ring, and then switch to a spring metal one.
Various types of expanders allow you to perform acupressure exercises for the hands.
Choose an expander to your liking - there are round-ring, V-shaped, with a shifted center of gravity, various balls, and with a dynamometer. The last option is interesting because you can monitor the growth of your grip strength.
This is the simplest option that allows you to pump your arms at home.
Horizontal bar
Have you ever thought that your grip swings on the horizontal bar? Why then does it become easier to hang on it every time? Do you remember when you first came to the horizontal bar, how long were you able to hang there, was it difficult to do? Yes. Now you just grab the bar and hang.
To pump up your wrists, you need to systematically hang on the horizontal bar for 60–90 seconds. This is also beneficial for the spine - it stretches, thereby reducing the compressive effect on the roots of the spinal cord. Try hanging like this every other day or every day.
By the way, if you hang a towel on the horizontal bar, grab it with both hands and train hanging in this position, you can pump up your hand even better. This technique is used by wrestlers because grip is very important to them.
Those who go to the gym and exercise without athletic gloves develop calluses on their hands. It’s not for nothing that all this happens – the hands receive a powerful load. The arms get the most peak load from exercises such as shrugs and deadlifts. Especially the last exercise, when done with decent weights, significantly strengthens your grip.
To strengthen your grip as effectively as possible, do not grab the bar with different grips when your arms are turned in different directions. This significantly reduces the stress on the fingers and palm.
Those who successfully do deadlifts are rarely interested in how to strengthen their hands - as a rule, they already receive sufficient load. However, increasing your grip strength helps you achieve better results in such exercises.
Strengthening your fingers
It happens that the grip is generally good, but the fingers are weak and thin. The question arises, how to pump up your fingers. If you pay attention to the anatomy of the fingers, you will see that there are practically no muscles, only tendons. Therefore, your fingers are unlikely to become thicker (and this is not necessary), since the tendons grow very slowly and reluctantly. The main muscles are concentrated in the palm and between the thumb and index finger. Here they grow well, making your palm more impressive.
The simplest thing that comes to mind is finger push-ups. However, don’t immediately stand on the floor on your toes, because we don’t yet know how strong your fingers are. In the worst case, you could break one of your fingers.
To protect yourself, come to the table. Place your fingers on it as if you are going to stand on them. Press down from above with your body until you feel pain. If you need to lean heavily on top before pain appears, then you can try standing on your toes on the floor.
- Get into a push-up position. Place one knee on the floor and place your center of gravity on it.
- Stand on your toes. Gradually remove your knee. The stress on your fingers will increase. If you manage to stand on your toes, try standing there for 5–10 seconds.
- Make sure that your fingers do not bend in the opposite direction!
If you experience any discomfort, do not overcome yourself; stop the exercise.
If you have strong fingers and you stand comfortably on them in a push-up position, try tightening your palm. Your body will rise slightly.
The next level will be doing push-ups on your fingers.
This exercise will also help pump up your hands. If it hurts you to do it, it doesn’t matter, there are many other options!
For example, you can solve the question of how to pump up your fingers using a ring expander. You can grab it with your fingertips and squeeze it if you can manage it. When working with an expander, the entire palm is loaded, including the fingers.
Hand training can be done with a barbell. You need to place your hands with the bar on your knees, fixing your elbows and shoulders, that is, everything above the wrist.
Next, do flexion and extension of the arms at the wrists. In fact, in both cases, bending will result. Just one exercise is done with a reverse grip, and the second with a straight grip.
This is a good hand exercise when you feel like your grip isn't strong enough on certain exercises (like deadlifts).
There are several types of grip strength. Each of them has its own development methodology. But they have one thing in common: a regular increase in load volume. So, let's name 4 types of grip strength:
- Compressive. It is equivalent to a firm handshake.
- Holding. This is the statistical strength of your finger and hand muscles to grip an object and hold it for a long time.
- Plucked. This type is characterized by the ability to hold something between the palm and a fairly strong thumb.
- Wrist strength. It is comparable to arm strength in general. This is the ability to hold an object with your hands for a long time.
So how do you develop each of these types of grip strength?
- The compressive force is developed by the expander. In stores, these sports attributes are sold with different resistances. Of course, first you need to purchase an attribute with the least resistance, and after 2-3 weeks of training and pumping up your fingers, switch to a stronger resistance of the expander.
- Trains holding strength by holding dumbbells hanging. Progression of the load is carried out by adding “pancakes”. You can make the exercise more difficult by swinging the dumbbell. In this case, wrist strength will also develop.
- Pinch strength training. Even with excellent grip strength, you may have a hard time holding something with your fingers. After all, plucking is the strength of your thumbs. Holding two “pancakes” with them is a simple method of developing this type of grip. Add together these attributes of the smallest weight and hold, gradually increasing the time and weight of the “pancakes”. An indicator of colossal strength is holding two twenty-kilogram “pancakes” with your fingers. It's very hard.
- Wrist workout. The most effective exercise for developing wrist strength is the dumbbell wrist curl. To perform the exercise, you can place your forearms on a bench and lift and lower dumbbells. Another way to train your wrists is to rotate dumbbells back and forth and clockwise in your straight arms. Elbows should not work!
So, the fingers, the hand as a whole, and the wrists can also be pumped up. Do not forget about gradual and increasing loads. Please note that your hands will shake and hurt. But this temporary phenomenon is compensated by successes!
Silicone brushes
Progress does not stand still, and now almost every brush from the standard set has a backup in a silicone version. The name of such brushes is shapers.
“New Shift” can boast several advantages:
- Durability. No hairs deteriorate or become brittle, and the silicone is very easy to clean.
- Convenience. It’s not easy for beginners to draw the same smiles on a long-pile French coat. And such a brush is no more difficult to control than a pencil. In addition, the varnish does not spread on it.
- Versatility. In addition to drawing patterns with shapers, you can rub in pigments, shape the molding, smooth out the decor, use a sharp tip to erase your own flaws in the work, and even put rhinestones on the nail.
In the video, the master will tell you why these brushes are useful:
Whether or not to use shapers is your choice. You can buy a futuristic set to play around with original tools. However, absolutely everything that shapers can do can be easily done with ordinary brushes.
How to choose the “right” brushes
Manicure brushes are available in both natural bristles and nylon. So – which ones are better?
You need to look for quality options in special stores and, of course, you should hold them in your hand, and not choose them based on one picture. If you order on the Internet, do not be lazy and look through the reviews.
When choosing, pay attention to these criteria:
- Pile. Seasoned experts advise beginning craftsmen to learn with nylon. Not only does the material not spread or be absorbed on it, but it’s also not a shame to “kill” such brushes in the process of studying. When you become more experienced in nail art, purchase more expensive options made from sable or kolinsky. Another point: natural brushes are more suitable for painting, while synthetic brushes are more suitable for viscous materials, such as gel. The fibers should be even and tightly adjacent to each other.
- Fastening . If it is weak, then you won’t be able to hold the brush confidently. So check it out without leaving the checkout.
- Handle length. The shorter it is, the more convenient it is to draw.
The most profitable option is to buy a set, in which each brush has a backup. If you want to purchase separately, it will cost more. But there’s no point in spending money on 10 pieces. You already know that some brushes can replace each other. Therefore, you can buy only three brushes: a dotted one for small patterns, a liner for fine lines, and an angled one for large elements.
So, manicure brushes have revealed their secrets: which one is useful for what, what to replace it with, and how to paint the most incredible patterns on your nails. Now you can free your inner creator and surrender entirely to inspiration. Even the process of creating beautiful compositions alone will bring a lot of pleasure!
Today, many girls spend a lot of time and money on their manicure. Not everyone goes to beauty salons. Some do it themselves. To ensure an amazing result, it is important to use manicure brushes correctly.
Making brushes for painting
So, to make painting brushes, first of all you need
prepare pig bristles or hair of appropriate animals. The description of the brushes below indicates the animals from whose hair the brushes are made, as well as the characteristics of the brushes made from certain hairs. Please also note that all of the brushes listed below are made from treated animal tail hair.
Gerbils. Only flat brushes with long or short hair are available.
The hair is very soft, low-elastic. It is mainly used for working with tempera, gouache and watercolors, when working with oil paints, for glazing varnish coatings, for applying a thin layer of painting, etc.
Badgers. The shape of the brushes is flat and round. The brushes are somewhat stiffer than gerbil hair brushes. Used in oil painting.
Core ones. Round and flat brushes with long or short hair. The brushes are distinguished by exceptional elasticity and elasticity with satisfactory softness. They are used in all types of painting, but they are absolutely indispensable when working with gouache and watercolor, when greater elasticity is required from the brush. In oil painting they are used to create small details; in mural painting, round brushes are used to draw long contour lines; and flat brushes are used to apply thin painterly layers. Core brushes are convenient for wet glazing.
Squirrel ones. Only round brushes are available. These brushes are distinguished by their great softness and elasticity; they are used mainly in watercolor painting on paper and in painting on porcelain. Note that the best brushes for watercolors are considered to be those made from marten or sable, while large brushes for watercolors are made from coarser camel hair.
The practical use of brushes, soft or hard, flat or round, depends on the individual requirements of the artist, on the technique with which he solves certain painting problems.
The group of so-called school brushes, which are usually made from squirrel, fox, and bear hair, includes brushes of nine numbers: 2; 4; 6; 8; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 (see tables 1 and 2).
| Table 1. Flat brushes for painting | |||||||||
| Brush no. | Width of hair bundle at the clip, mm | Hair release length, mm | |||||||
| Bristle | Squirrels, mustelids | Columnids, ground squirrels, gerbils, minks | |||||||
| dl. | Wed | cor. | dl. | Wed | cor. | dl. | Wed | ||
| 2 | 2 | 13 | 11 | 7 | — | — | — | 6 | 5 |
| 4 | 4 | 15 | 13 | 9 | — | — | — | 8 | 6 |
| 6 | 6 | 17 | 15 | 11 | 10 | 8 | 8 | 11 | 9 |
| 8 | 8 | 19 | 17 | 13 | 12 | 10 | 8 | 13 | 11 |
| 10 | 10 | 21 | 19 | 15 | 14 | 12 | 10 | 15 | 13 |
| 12 | 12 | 23 | 21 | 16 | 16 | 14 | 12 | 17 | 15 |
| 14 | 14 | 26 | 24 | 19 | 18 | 16 | 14 | 21 | 18 |
| 16 | 16 | 29 | 27 | 22 | 20 | 18 | 16 | 24 | 21 |
| 18 | 18 | 32 | 30 | 25 | 22 | 20 | 18 | 27 | 24 |
| 20 | 20 | 35 | 33 | 28 | 25 | 22 | 19 | — | — |
| 22 | 22 | 38 | 36 | 31 | 27 | 24 | 21 | — | — |
| 24 | 24 | 40 | 39 | 34 | 29 | 25 | 29 | — | — |
| 26 | 26 | 44 | 42 | 37 | 31 | 25 | 25 | — | — |
| 28 | 28 | 47 | 45 | 40 | 33 | 30 | 37 | — | — |
| 30 | 30 | 49 | 47 | 42 | 35 | 32 | 29 | — | — |
| Table 2. Round brushes for painting | ||||||
| Brush no. | Bundle diameter at the bushing, mm | Hair release length, mm | ||||
| Bristle | Squirrels, mustelids | Kolinaceae, gophers, minks | Badgers, gerbils | |||
| long | short | average | ||||
| 1 | 1 | 7 | 8 | 8 | 6 | 6 |
| 2 | 2 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 9 | 8 |
| 3 | 3 | 15 | 12 | 13 | 11 | 10 |
| 4 | 4 | 19 | 14 | 16 | 14 | 12 |
| 5 | 5 | 24 | 17 | 20 | 17 | 14 |
| 6 | 6 | 28 | 20 | 20 | 21 | 16 |
| 7 | 7 | 30 | 24 | 26 | 23 | 22 |
| 8 | 8 | 32 | 28 | 28 | 25 | 26 |
| 9 | 9 | 34 | 30 | 30 | 27 | 28 |
| 10 | 10 | 36 | 33 | — | — | 30 |
| 11 | 11 | 38 | 36 | — | — | 33 |
| 12 | 12 | 40 | 38 | — | — | — |
| 13 | 13 | 42 | — | — | — | — |
Having removed unnecessary individual hairs from the bundle, it is trimmed (from the non-working side of the hair) and the trimmed part down is placed in a narrow glass with a flat bottom. By lightly tapping the bottom of the glass on the table, all the hairs in the bun will settle and become even.
After this, the hair bundle is tied up (Fig. 1) and unnecessary hairs are combed out of it using a fine-toothed comb. The combed out bunch must be additionally tied up, after which it is degreased in gasoline. The bundle is kept in a jar of gasoline for at least 2...3 days (the jar must be tightly closed). Next, the hair is washed several times in pure gasoline, and then boiled in a 10% solution of potassium alum, which is a tanning agent. (As a result of this treatment, the hair becomes non-hygroscopic.)
A bundle of dried hair is wrapped in newspaper (in one layer), tied and hardened, keeping it at a temperature of 140...150°C, usually for 50...60 minutes. Actually, the time for hardening hair depends on its type. So, the dog's hair is heated for 1.5 hours. In this case, thin hair requires a higher hardening temperature.
To determine the heating temperature, the following simple method is usually used. If the paper placed in the oven (oven) turns slightly yellow, this means that the temperature is below 150°C and it is not sufficient for hardening. When the paper turns a light ocher color, it can be considered that the temperature is close to 150°C, that is, the temperature required for hardening the hair has been reached. Charring of the paper indicates that the temperature is too high, which is clearly above 150°C. Please note that this temperature is not suitable for heat treatment of hair, as overheating makes hair brittle.
After adjusting the temperature in the furnace, begin hardening. It is best to place a bunch of hair in the oven on a metal mesh or hang it so that the hair is evenly heated by hot air.
After warming up the hair, they are combed again and short or unusable hairs are removed from the beam using a razor. To do this, the bundle is placed on the palm (with the cut part facing the palm) and, holding it with your fingers, unnecessary hairs are trimmed with a razor. Then the bundle is pulled apart and unnecessary hairs are also removed from the middle, taking them out with tweezers. The hair bundle treated in this way is again wrapped in newspaper, bandaged and hardened a second time, using the same modes.
To determine the quality of hardening, the hair is moistened with water. If the hair is not warmed up enough, curls will form on some of the hairs. Then the bun is moistened with water and the hair is calcined again. The quality of hair hardening can also be judged by its color. So, with sufficient hardening, white hair acquires a yellowish tint. Using this property, several control white hairs are placed into a bundle of dark-colored hair when heated, the yellowing of which will be a sign of a sufficient degree of hardening of all hair in the bundle.
Hair that has undergone hardening can now be knitted into brushes. Depending on the number (see tables 1 and 2), a certain amount of hair is taken from the bundle and placed in a pre-prepared mold with a conical bottom, made of tin or plastic. It is clear that such molds should have sizes depending on the corresponding brush numbers. So, by putting the required amount of hair into the mold, tapping on the mold, the tuft of hair is shaped into a blank for the brush (Fig. 2). Then the bundle is removed, bandaged, excess hair is cut off, the non-working side of the bundle is coated with varnish and the workpiece is inserted into a metal capsule (clip). Such capsules can be seamless or formed from a thin metal strip, the edges of which are overlapped (with a soldered joint). Capsules are usually made from tinplate or brass; their sizes depend on the number of the brush.
Handles of brushes are carved from birch, pine, beech or alder wood, then sanded, coated with clear varnish or painted in various solid colors. The bundle inserted into the capsule is poured from the open (wide) end of the capsule with waterproof varnish or synthetic glue so that the glue (varnish) reaches the end of the hair bundle located in the capsule. After drying, the capsule with the hair (bristle) tuft is connected to a wooden handle, on which the capsule is additionally crimped for strength. The handle of the finished brush is varnished. The length of the hair released from the capsule depends on its elasticity. Let me note that the correct release of the hair is important, since very long hair will make the brush disheveled, and if it is not released enough, it will pick up little paint. The finished brush is moistened with water and combed until the brush hair becomes even.
Let’s try to figure it out together with you how to make a paint brush in five minutes.
Everything is in stores now! Buying any brush quite cheaply is not a problem, but imagine this situation. You need to paint something. Literally two brush strokes. After such short-term use, you will have to throw away the brush. It’s a shame, but there’s nothing you can do, it’s not easy to wash it by hand.
And in this situation, this article will come to your rescue.
How to make a brush for painting with your own hands, very simply and cheaply, which does not need to be thrown away and does not need to be washed, with detailed photographs will be described in it.
What can you make a brush from?
This does not require a lot of time and materials. An old dried brush or any other pen that is comfortable to hold in your hand while painting and a few more details will be enough.
We disassemble the old brush so that the handle remains intact, and throw away the rest. Next, select an ordinary office clip of the width you need for the brush, and adjust the width of the handle to the width of the clip. It’s better not to cut the handle with a knife, but to saw it off, it will be neater, and there’s no risk that the wood will break off in the wrong place. To secure the clamp to the handle, you need to select two small and not thick screws. Depending on the diameter of the screws, you need to take two drills. The larger one is for drilling the clamp, and the smaller one is for drilling a hole for the screw in the handle (so that it does not split when tightening the screws). We drill holes. Screw the clamp to the handle. Cut the foam to the required size and insert it into the clamp. The brush is ready. The brush for painting is made by yourself, you can use it indefinitely and not worry that the paint will dry out and you will have to throw away the brush. After painting, you simply throw away the used foam rubber, and just wipe the handle lightly to remove traces of paint. You don’t even have to throw away the foam rubber, but leave the brush as it is. In order for the brush to be ready for further use, simply replace the dried foam rubber with a piece of new one and the brush is ready for use again. You can take any foam rubber, such as you have.
If foam rubber is not found, then you can use a piece of old fabric folded in several layers, a piece of felt or something similar.
As you can see, there are no hopeless situations.
Today all girls know what makeup brushes are. But some people have no idea about the existence of similar devices for manicure. Nevertheless, they are becoming very popular, because with their help you can create a truly unique nail design. Which brush is for what?
Types and purpose
Manicure tools are always available in specialized stores. There they are sold both individually and in sets. It usually includes several basic brushes, which are almost always necessary for performing different types of manicure. Each of them has its own purpose:
- A dotting brush is used to apply fine details. With its help, it is possible to carefully draw various designs on the nail. It also holds rhinestones or glitter well.
- The petal brush has a narrower corner than the dot brush, and the shape is flatter. It is used to apply simple strokes or glitter, as well as unusual patterns. This tool is often used to create ethnic motifs on nails.
- A fan brush will be needed to apply abstract designs and landscapes to the nail. This allows you to make it in the form of a semicircle. She blends shades and midtones well and applies glitter.
- To apply several varnishes at the same time, choose a flat, beveled brush, which is also called a “dagger-shaped” brush. With its help you can create both subtle and complex three-dimensional patterns.
- To completely cover the surface of the nail with varnish, you need a wide brush. This tool allows you to realize interesting and intricate ideas for manicure.
- A device with a short pile is usually used to draw leaves and all kinds of curls.
- A liner brush, or hair, comes with bristles of different lengths. It can be used to create animalistic designs, floral patterns, geometric patterns or draw straight lines.
Manicure brushes are also divided into 4 groups. The criterion is the material with which they will work.
- Varnish brushes
are used when you need to make designs with your favorite varnish, but the brush in the bottle itself does not correspond to the desired thickness. They can also be used for pedicures, since their length is longer than the length of the brush in varnish.
- Acrylic modeling brushes
are essential for adding nail extensions. With their help, they create the necessary bend and model the shape. They differ in rigidity and length of the pile. The brush bundle is elastic and easily restores its original shape after pressing. The tip of this tool gently deposits powder while creating your cuticle line.
- Brushes for working with gel
differ in their structure. Their bristles are stiffer than other brushes. They are shaped like a square or rectangle. Thanks to these properties, such a tool is easy to work with fluid and viscous gel.
Art painters always have brushes for nail design
Basic Exercises to Strengthen the Wrists and Forearms
There are seven effective, fairly easy-to-do exercises that will allow you to forget about weak arms. It is recommended to do this complex three times a week. The main thing is that it is performed on a regular basis.
Hand, Wrist & Forearm Strengthening Exercises
"Warm-up"
The following exercises will prepare you for more intense and difficult ones. They will warm up and prepare your wrists for further more complex work.
- Curl the fingers of both hands into fists. Hold this position for half a minute and open your palms. Repeat flexion and extension twice a minute.
- Bend your wrists for 30 seconds and then straighten. You can't bend your elbows. They must remain straight at all times.
- Extend your arms in front of you and pull your wrist forward, raise your palms up, hold the position for 30 seconds, return to the starting position. Repeat at least 4 times, for a total of 2 minutes.
"Intense"
Once your hands are warmed up, proceed to the remaining four exercises:
- Arm bending. Take a sitting position, straighten your back. Take a light dumbbell and place your hand on the top of your leg so that it rests on your thigh. Raise and then lower the clamped weight. Perform 3 sets of 20 repetitions each. This exercise perfectly develops the brachioradialis muscles.
- flexion . Performed from a position similar to the previous one. To maintain balance, the hand is placed exactly on the thigh. The wrist with the dumbbell is raised and lowered. Do at least 3 sets of 20 reps each.
- Reverse (reverse) wrist flexion. Sit with a dumbbell in your hand, straighten your wrist and then bend it. Make sure your palm is facing down and your elbows are in line with your hips. Perform 3 sets of 20 curls.
- Flexion of fingers. A simple, but excellent exercise for developing the muscles of the arms and fingers. Take a dumbbell and place your hand on your thigh with the back of it facing up. At the same time as you lift the dumbbell, squeeze and relax your fingers as you lower it. Choose a weight that is as comfortable and easy to lift as possible.
Exercises for the Hands | How to Strengthen Your Wrists
Which material to choose?
It can be difficult for beginners in nail art to decide on the material from which manicure brushes are made. It can be natural or synthetic. The final result depends on its features.
The material for making natural brushes is usually sable wool or kolinsky.
The bristles of these brushes are of high quality. They do not require special care, but will last a long time. With such tools it is convenient to draw patterns of varying complexity using different types of paints.
The polymer material from which synthetic manicure devices are made significantly reduces their cost. These brushes hold the polish well and do not allow it to bleed.
The main advantage of silicone brushes is their durability. At this point they are superior even to natural hair instruments. These brushes are convenient for applying small details.
Professional craftsmen prefer devices made from natural fibers. They appreciate their dense structure, moderate rigidity and long service life.
In order for the tool to last as long as possible, it needs to be properly cared for. Manicure brushes should be used exclusively for nail design. You should not draw with them on paper, so as not to deform the pile. When using regular paint instead of varnish, hairs often fall out.
Not only does keeping a brush in water for a long time lead to a change in its shape, but even a short period of time will lead to the loss of the original appearance of the bristles. You can return it by holding the brush in hot water for several minutes.
To prevent the varnish from drying out on the bristles of the brush, they should be washed immediately after use. If you do not do this in time, you will need acetone to clean them, which damages the structure of the fibers. The bristle of the brush will wear off very quickly when using a palette with an uneven surface. To avoid this result, do not rub the instrument with force on a napkin.
To extend the life of the tool, cuticle oil should be applied to it at the end of the procedure. Only well-dried brushes can be placed in the storage case. Exposure to the hot air of a hair dryer will be detrimental to the lint of instruments.
What is a brush made of?
The wrist consists of eight small bones, the metacarpus - of five. Each finger is divided into three phalanges. In this case, the muscles of the hand are connected in a solid pattern.
Muscles are divided into three groups:
- Average. It consists of small worm-shaped muscles located from the deep layers of tendons to the proximal phalanges. The function of these muscles is to flex the proximal phalanges of the three middle fingers, adduct them and spread them apart.
- Muscles of the thumb. This group forms a hill around the base of the big toe. These muscles originate at the proximal phalanx and end at the first metacarpal bone and the sesamoid bone. This complex muscle structure allows the thumb to be very mobile and withstand high loads.
- Muscles of the little finger. They form an elevation on the outer edge of the palm. They begin at the wrist and attach to the fifth metacarpal bone. Their function is to ensure mobility of the little finger.
All these muscles stretch from the fingers up to the forearm, which provides high flexibility to the wrist.
A person’s grip strength is ensured by the joint work of the muscles of the hand and forearm. Therefore, for strong wrists, pumped up fingers alone will not be enough.
To increase the strength of such small muscles, it is necessary to perform a whole range of training.
How to do it at home?
To practice patterns and small details, beginners can make a nail design tool from a regular watercolor brush. This is easy to do yourself at home, with only a brush and tongs.
Using manicure tongs, carefully remove small tufts of fibers from the very base of the brush from the edge to the center. You need to try to ensure that as a result the brush is in the middle and does not move to one side. Trim the pile in small sections to avoid damaging the instrument. The number of fibers to be cut is determined by the required size of the future tool.
A good, inexpensive paint brush can be converted into a tool of the desired design and size. Caring for it is the same as for a specialized manicure brush.
It is important to remember to treat the instrument with care so that it lasts as long as possible.
What patterns can you make?
Having brushes of various sizes and shapes in your arsenal, you can create unique and delightful fantasy designs. To learn artistic painting, you need to start with simple lines, and then connect them into an overall composition. As soon as the hand moves confidently, you can move on to a more original and complex pattern.
Using a petal brush, Chinese painting is done on the nails. This technique represents plant motifs: twigs, flowers and trees. It uses various techniques, such as wave, aqua, openwork, smooth surface. The result looks original and very romantic on the nails.
A flat brush is used to create an ombre effect on nails, in which one shade smoothly transitions into another. To do this, you need to add several different colors to the palette. You can also create a gradient effect on your nails using a sponge. This nail design is suitable not only for every day, but also for special occasions.
A thin brush ideally draws out the smile line for a French manicure. This elegant design can be made in any color. At the same time, the nails look very stylish.
The most convenient way to cover your nails with glitter is to use a fan brush. The desired area is pre-treated with colorless varnish. Before it dries, you can distribute the glitter by scattering it from a fan brush onto the nail. To remove excess, use a cotton swab.
Depending on the thickness and length of the pile, you can get all kinds of patterns. A thin brush with bristles of more than 10 mm allows you to create long, neat lines in your drawing. More often, tools with a pile thickness of 7 to 10 mm are used. They can create wave-like patterns on your nails. Branches and ornaments are made with a brush 3 to 7 mm thick.
Thread tassels are a beautiful decoration that is used in various types of decoration. These include knitted hats and scarves, trim or ropes for curtains, piping for blankets or bedspreads. Tassels are used to decorate the clasps of bags and purses, and to make earrings and beads. The material used for production is also different. These include thin sewing threads, thick woolen threads for knitting, leather strips and thin twisted ropes. In this article we will look at how to make a tassel from threads.
Master class on creating tassels from threads.
Step 1.
To begin, take a thread for the brush and wind it onto a plastic card along the width (along the longer part). Look at the photo.
How much to reel?
Here you are not limited, you do it to your taste. The brush in this master class is 300 rpm.
After winding, secure the end of the thread with tape or a tent so that the threads do not unravel.
Step 2.
Now we need to fix the threads. To do this, use knitted sewing thread to tie a thread for the brush in the center.
Why knitted thread?
The knitted thread is rougher, if you can say so about it. It doesn't slip like brush thread. And therefore it will hold the main threads tightly.
Step 3.
We turn the card over and bend it in the opposite direction. So that the arc turns out on the other side.
And carefully, in the center, with sharp scissors, cut the threads.
This is what should happen. Don't be alarmed that the threads are so shaggy. They will be corrected in subsequent steps.
Step 4.
Now let's fix the thread again. To do this, you can already use thread for tassels. Or you can use the same sewing thread.
At this stage there is not much difference.
Step 5.
But still my preference is steam. Hook the tassel on an awl or a long needle or knitting needle (whatever you have), and hold it for 5-10 minutes (depending on the thread) over boiling water.
Many craftswomen hold their brushes over a boiling kettle, but I don’t have enough space there, so I like to straighten the brushes over the saucepan.
This is where the brush should line up.
But! Look at the ends of the threads, they are not even. We will equalize them.
Step 6.
Let's take the most ordinary paper. I took an A4 sheet and cut off a small piece.
Now straighten the strings and wrap them in paper. This is how it is shown in the photo.
Step 7
And carefully cut off everything that sticks out from under the paper. This way we will even out the length of the brush.
Remove the paper and voila!!!
The thread tassel is ready! As you have seen, it is not difficult, and the result is very beautiful.
You can use this tassel as you wish: make it into a pendant or sautoir, earrings or keychain, or whatever your imagination suits.
Today I showed you, dear ones, how to make a thread tassel with your own hands!
If you liked my master class, share it quickly!
Write in the comments what thread for brushes do you use? And which one do you like best? And I will learn something useful from you.
And I'll leave it at that. Off to make some brushes! It's addictive. Until new master classes! Bye bye!
There are a huge variety of brushes now, and the most unusual ones. Once again, going through my brushes, I decided to figure out the types of bristles, what exactly is suitable for what. After all, we draw so often that we no longer think about why a squirrel is used or how a kolinsky differs from a bristle.
Squirrel
One of the most famous brushes with which many begin learning to draw. They are made from hairs from the tail of a squirrel, and the hair taken from the top of the tail is much more valuable. Such brushes are only round, very soft and elastic; they can also be used to make flute-shaped brushes (but the width of the flute is limited). They are mainly used for working with watercolors and water-based paints, because these brushes hold water well. At the same time, the protein is too delicate for oil and may begin to come out from the solvent. Squirrel hair retains its shape perfectly, does not break, absorbs moisture and washes well under running water. The squirrel brush allows you to paint without uneven stripes and blurry spots due to the fact that when in contact with paper, porcelain, earthenware, the hairs do not separate and lead a clear, directional line. Squirrel brushes need to be carefully looked after. The squirrel's hair is very thin, blue, black or brown.
I read here that the material for these brushes can be the bristles of different breeds of Siberian squirrels.
For example, the hair of the CASAN breed is considered the thinnest. It is used to make tools used to paint ceramics and porcelain. The bristles of the TALUTKY breed squirrel are longer and are used for brushes used for calligraphy. CANADISCHE squirrels are valuable for their short, black hair. Each of their hairs has a thin tip. Therefore, this breed of squirrel makes excellent watercolor brushes.
Columns
Brushes made from its bristles are considered very valuable. The kolonok is a cross between a ferret, a marten and a mink at the same time. There are only a few of these animals in nature, and besides, it is not so easy to prepare. For example, the ponytail of a Siberian weasel produces no more than 2 g of bristles, suitable for brushes. It will make 3-4 thin brushes and 1-2 large ones. For brushes, fur is taken only from its tail and only from animals living in the river valleys of Siberia, China and Korea. Kolonkovy hair is very elastic, light and has a sharp tip. The highest quality kolinsky brushes are those made from the bristles of males caught in the winter. By the way, a pile column suitable for painting is called spine. Hair color may vary. It depends on the season in which the animal was caught, generally it is golden brown in color. They are similar in quality to squirrel ones, although there are differences. The villi of the column at the very base are much stiffer and thicker, and at the tip they are softer, very elastic and elastic. The brush can be cylindrical or flat, in different shades from light red to dark brown. These brushes are used for both thin and thick paints. In oil painting they are used when making small details; core brushes are also convenient for glazing techniques on wet surfaces.
Sable
The golden mean between soft squirrel and elastic column. The peculiarity of sable brushes is that they are very durable and almost do not wear out, even when working with rough surfaces; they are made from sable tails. The brush is very flexible, picks up a large volume of paint and releases it in doses. Because of these qualities, such brushes allow you to work in various techniques, from “dry” brushes to wet techniques. Everything can be done with one brush, which is very convenient. The best choice for working with watercolors, egg tempera, gouache. Sable brushes are quite rare and quite expensive, but they are worth it.
Marten
Made from the hair of marten or the weasel family. Brushes made from marten hair differ in their properties, depending on what kind of marten it is: lowland or mountain. Brushes made from plains marten hair are as soft as squirrels, but brushes made from mountain marten hair are a little more elastic. On sale, such brushes are less common than squirrel brushes.
Weasel
An alternative to pile column. The hairs are red-brown in color, with a good sharp tip, good fullness, but not as long as that of the Kolinka.
Bristle
Quite tough, elastic and long. It is sorted by shade (available in black, gray and white) and length, treated with chemicals and bleached. The prepared bristles are doused with boiling water, after which it becomes more elastic. When finished, it has a light color. High quality bristles are produced in China and Russia.
You can distinguish this brush from others by visual inspection - the pig's hair is split at the end. It was this feature that led to the use of pig hair - the specific tip allows the brush to absorb a large volume of paint and apply it evenly, without dipping the brush again. The best brushes of this type have up to 80% split hairs, but for art brushes, calibrated unsplit bristles are still better. These brushes are chosen for painting with oil, acrylic (you don’t need to dilute), gouache and tempera. These brushes have a peculiarity - there is no ending at the beam, thanks to this the brush is able to pick up a fairly large amount of paint and retain it. The basic shape of the brush is flat, although there are cylindrical and fan shapes, as well as fluted ones.
Pony
Soft pile with a cylindrical tuft, absorbs water well. The bristles that grow behind the ears or on the back are used. Brushes are often used in schools and kindergartens to teach watercolor techniques. Brushes made from pony hair absorb paints well, but give them off worse than they absorb, they gather into a cone shape, hold their shape well, but do not have sufficient elasticity. This type of hair, like that of a pony, is classified as a decorative hair type, since it does not have a sharp tip, which is why these brushes are not very suitable for professional work. May be brown or white. Designed for working with water-soluble paint: watercolor, gouache or tempera.
Goat
Goat hair is elastic, resilient and quite long, and comes in white and yellow shades. Softer than pig bristles. The brushes retain their shape, absorb paint and water perfectly, resulting in smooth strokes. They are used in watercolor painting, calligraphy, batik and ceramic painting, and Japanese painting. It is noteworthy that for calligraphy, brushes are used mainly with bamboo handles because of their lightness. This brush is suitable for batik work because it can withstand hot wax.
Ear hair brushes
Such brushes are made from hair that is taken from the inside of the ears of oxen and cows, the quality of which is determined by the breed of the animal. Typically, such brushes are inexpensive, but durable, elastic and sensitive in use, give good results and retain their shape well. The hair has a silky texture. They are made flat and round, and brushes are also made for covering large surfaces. Oxhair brushes are used to work with oil paints, acrylic, tempera, and gouache. Cow hair brushes are used to work with almost all types of paints: watercolor, gouache, tempera, acrylic, oil paints.
Mongoose
Mongoose brushes are easily distinguished by the color of the bristles; the tip is dark brown and the base is black and white or grayish. Brushes are cylindrical or flat, elastic and slightly hard. They are usually used when working with thick paints (for example, oil and acrylic). From my own experience, I can say that it can also be used for painting with watercolors using a dry technique; it holds its shape well and has a thin tip, but does not hold water very well.
Wolf
Rather exotic for us, but quite common in the east. These brushes are made from wolf hair. They are distinguished by their special elasticity and elasticity, thanks to these qualities, such brushes are mainly used for calligraphy and guohua painting (a style of traditional Chinese painting in which ink and water paints are used on silk or paper), brushes made from Chinese yellow wolf, which is essentially a columnar.
Bear
Made from processed brown or polar bear hair. Brushes made from polar bear hair are flat in shape with a long or short hair tuft; brushes made from brown bear hair are round, as in the photo above. These brushes are less rigid, but more elastic compared to bristle brushes; they have high elasticity and softness. Used for “heavy” types of paints: oil paints. gouache, etc. Brushes made from brown bear hair are round in shape and are more soft and elastic. Used for working with tempera, watercolor, ink, etc.
Badger
The hair for these brushes is taken from the tail of a badger. Due to its properties, badger fur has become an ideal material for making butter tools. Brushes made from badger hair are softer than bristle brushes, have a conical shape, and are distinguished by their “fluffiness.” The best badger fur brushes can be identified by their white tip and a stripe in the middle.
Manufacturers sometimes imitate them by dyeing pig bristles or goat hair brushes. However, the latter cannot compare with a badger hair brush in their working properties. If you are not sure about the authenticity of the brush, pay attention to the following: if the hair does not have a “belly” or tip, and there are twisted and curled hairs along its length, then it is a goat hair brush; if there are split hairs, it is hog bristles.
Synthetics
Synthetic brushes are made from nylon, polyester and other fibers. Synthetic hair based on nylon is hard and does not release water, so it is not suitable for watercolor painting, but for oil paints and acrylic this quality is just appropriate. Synthetic hair based on polyesters provides varying degrees of elasticity. Hairs of different lengths and diameters are collected into a bundle, which gives a capillary effect, which allows you to use such brushes even in watercolors.
Such brushes are less prone to destruction under the influence of thinners, insects, paints, and direct sunlight. But due to mechanical stress, these brushes are inferior in wear resistance to natural ones; the bristles quickly wear out and become soft. There are many variations of mixed types of brushes made from different bristles. They mix both natural piles and combine synthetic and natural ones. Recently, the production of synthetic brushes has been actively developing and high-quality synthetics may well replace or complement natural bristles over time.
A short guide to different materials and types of pile.
Oil – brush bristles, kolinsky, ear hair, synthetics, badger. Tempera - synthetics, badger, squirrel, bristle brush, kolinsky, ear hair Gouache - ear hair, synthetics, squirrel, bristle brush, kolinsky Watercolor - squirrel brush, kolinsky, synthetic imitation. Acrylic - synthetic, kolinsky brush, squirrel.
In addition, there are brushes made from fox hair, hare hair (these brushes are made from a special subspecies of the wild hare), raccoon, rat fur, wild horse mane, camel hair, otter, ferret, pharaoh mouse, young seal, sandstone, Chinese Angking hog , rabbit, ermine, deer, from plant fibers, from chicken fluff, etc.
In Petrykivka painting, craftsmen themselves make brushes from cat fur hairs, the so-called cats. I even found a master class for those who like experimenting.
And here's how the brushes are assembled.
While I was writing this post, I was thinking a lot about the ethics of making natural brushes. It is clear that the technology has been developed for centuries and brushes are often made from fur production waste, but at the same time it is clear that demand can increase harvesting volumes. No one will catch animals and cut off the required amount of hair from them from the required places. Therefore, it’s like with natural fur coats - beautiful, comfortable, but how humane? I personally switched to synthetics and imitation a long time ago; natural brushes are rather rare, but I calmly paint watercolors with synthetics, not disdaining the cheapest brushes. I really hope that over time, synthetics will replace natural fibers and they will become more exotic than a necessity.
Artistic brushes are made from the hair of various animals.
, as well as from bristles. Brushes made from the tail hairs of gerbils, badgers, weasels, and squirrels are especially valued. Depending on the purpose, flat and round brushes with elongated or shortened hair parts are made. Currently, due to the significant cost of traditional brushes for painting made from the hair of the above-mentioned animals, hair from other animals is increasingly used for brushes, and not only hair, but also wool. Such new suppliers of raw materials for brushes include: fox, arctic fox, mink, and here hair quite suitable for brushes is a waste product of fur factories and fur repair shops. Also suitable for making brushes are the wool of long-haired dogs, camels and sheep, as well as human hair. Of course, the use of certain hairs depends on what kind of work the corresponding brushes will be used for: for watercolor or oil painting, for graphic work, and so on. Thus, Chinese and Japanese artists who paint with ink prefer brushes made exclusively of camel hair.
Many painting enthusiasts sometimes try to make brushes on their own, but, not knowing the technology of this specific production, they end up with brushes that are unsuitable for work.
Step-by-step instruction
Step #1. You need to take a template, cutting it to a length slightly longer than needed for the brush. It should be very dense and not bend, especially if the thread tassels will not be made in a single copy. For them to be the same, the template should not be deformed.
Step #2. Next comes the process of winding the threads. Here you need to take into account the thickness and splendor of the future product. If you need a thin and flat tassel, for example, on a bag, then you need to wind several layers of threads. The more magnificent the brush, the more layers are wrapped around the template. Moreover, they need to be pulled tightly so that the rings do not hang down, but wrap tightly around the cardboard.
Step #3. The most important step is linking the layers. When the desired thickness is achieved, the edge is trimmed with scissors. Take either the same thread separately or a thick cotton thread selected by color (for strength and greater reliability) and first tighten a knot that holds all the layers together (in any place, even in the middle of the cardboard).
Step #4. Then all layers are removed from the template. The diagram shows how to make a tassel from threads using a needle. For sewing, the main thread from which the decoration was made is taken. This creates a dense head through which the ends pass.
Step #5. The formed tassel still looks very untidy, all the threads are crumpled and round. The next stage of work is to align them. This can be done in several ways. You can use an iron or hair straightener. This article describes the steam leveling method.
Step #6. To do this, you need to boil a pan or kettle to create steam. Place the brush on an awl or a long knitting needle (so as not to get burned by the hot air) and hold it over the pan for 5 minutes.
For decorating curtains
Yarn tassels, which can be made to decorate curtains, are best made from thick yarn. Before starting work, you need to determine what thickness and size the tassels on the curtains will be and prepare cardboard for the base.
After this, the following steps are performed:
- Cut a piece of thread 30-40 cm long. The tassel will hang on this piece.
- Place the thread on the warp and wind the threads along it at right angles.
- After a sufficient number of turns have been made, cut off the winding from the ball, and on the other hand, tie the brush with a knot.
- Remove the thread from the cardboard and tighten the knot with which the hand is tied.
- Using sharp scissors, cut the brush on one side.
- Decide on the mounting method. Method 1 – bringing the fastening thread to the top, method 2 – placing the fastening inside.
- A simpler option: the thread that holds the future decoration of the curtain stretches upward, and the upper part of the tassel is tied under it. To secure the garter, wrap a piece of thread around the tassel several times.
- The more complicated option is described as follows: after cutting the winding, lower the thread onto which the future decorative element will be attached. Form the top of the tassel by winding a piece of thread several times. Take the fastening thread and turn it over, distributing the ends of the tassel. Wind the remaining piece of thread around the top several times. Tighten and tie in a knot. Trim the ends so that the tassel earrings look neat.
Finishing touch
Now you know how to make a thread tassel. But it is also important and difficult to trim the edges evenly so that all the threads are the same length. There is one method that makes this process much easier and more efficient.
After aligning the threads, you need to take a thick sheet of paper and roll a brush into it. All that remains is to use sharp scissors to cut the threads along with the paper.
The result is a smooth, beautiful tassel, which all that remains is to sew onto the finished product.
The use of such decorations
Nowadays, decorative elements such as tassels are very widely used in various products. Fashion designers have long been decorating the interiors of rooms with curtains with the addition of such elements at the bottom or sides of the curtains. Beautiful ropes with huge bright satin threads adorn the curtain holders.
Often tassels are used by craftswomen when knitting things: hats, berets, shawls, blankets, sweaters, etc.
The latest fashion trend is the making of earrings and other jewelry from tassels made from bright thin ropes or leather. You can perfectly do this work yourself at home. To do this, you need to buy shiny thin twisted threads.
Before you make a tassel from threads for earrings, you need to make two identical elements and put them on metal rings that are attached to purchased ear loops. They can be purchased at any store that sells this kind of product. Having learned how to make such things, you can make a number of decorations to match any color of the dress. You can make combined multi-colored tassels by adding threads from different skeins.
