Review of tools for laying aerated concrete, DIY production

To save effort in carrying block material, it is recommended to use a special device. It is distinguished by its simplicity of design, giving the rather heavy unit a similarity to hand luggage. To carry it, just grab it by the handle with the device and take it to the place intended for it. If you decide to build a house on your own, then a grip for foam blocks will help you significantly increase the speed of work.

Construction conditions

The design is the end wall of the attic floor, protecting the attic from natural phenomena (wind, rain, frost). The most common form of pediments is considered to be triangular, but there are also trapezoidal, pentagonal and polysyllabic types, depending on the design of the house.

The pediment can be a continuation of the aerated concrete wall or be built on frame sheathing, which is the rafter part of the roof (aluminum, board).

The wall pediment is more durable, so it is used much more often as the main option.

The gable structure is installed on both sides of the house. It must have geometrically correct dimensions on each side, identical to each other, so that there is no distortion of the roof slope.

The construction of pediments begins from a reinforced monolithic belt (mauerlat), and is always secured with anchors during construction, in the last row of the upper wall. The basic rules for the construction of all aerated concrete structures are contained in SP 339.1325800.2017.

The main features of pediments are that they depend on:

1. size and configuration of the future roof;
2. wall strength (continuation of the structural external load-bearing part);
3. load distribution from the roof and attic;
4. presence of windows in the attic and attic entrance.

Suitable blocks

Requirements for all blocks made of cellular aerated concrete are determined by a number of standards (GOSTs):

1. R 57334-2016/EN 771-4:2011;
2. 25485-89;
3. 31360-2007;
4. 12852.5-77;
5. 21520-89;
6. 12852.6-77;
7. 27005-86;
8. 31357-2007;
9. 31359-2007;
10. SN 277-80.

Of the existing types, the most preferable for the pediment would be a material with density markings D500-D700 (and higher), a structural series that is considered to be the best for the construction of load-bearing walls.

Different shapes of cellular concrete divide it into rectangular, with grooves, U-shaped, and with handles. For gables, blocks with standard dimensions according to GOST can be used - 600 x 400 (300) x 200 (300) mm or 400 x 400 (300) x 300 mm.

To make the pediment structure strong, it is reinforced with spacers and lintels. At the same time, the roof frame is made as strong and reliable as possible. The required thickness of the aerated concrete block is standard (for all external load-bearing walls) - 375 mm.

Correct calculation

In order not to make mistakes in construction, in a pre-drafted project, the necessary parameters are calculated, according to which the ratios of the parallel sides must be identical. When carrying out independent calculations, the following parameters are taken into account:

• Height. Represented by the distance from the base of the structure to its top point. This indicator is always included in the design documentation.
• Width. Shows the distance along the base of the structure - in the widest part.
• Roof slope angle. To determine it, you can use the photograph table below, created according to regulatory requirements. To find out its value, you need to measure 1 m from the edge of the pediment and the height of the slope - this will be the angle of inclination:
• Area of ​​a triangle.
  It is determined by the standard formula: the height is multiplied by the width and divided by 2. If there is asymmetry of the slopes, then the area of ​​each half is calculated separately and then summed up. The basic formula for calculating the pediment: S= L /2 x H, where: L is the base of the triangle (width of the building), H is the height. The use of the formula is shown in the picture below:
• Area of ​​the pediment-trapezoid. Here the height is multiplied with the middle line (half the sum of the lengths along the upper and lower bases). Additionally, the area of ​​the triangular area of ​​the top is calculated using the formula described in the previous paragraph. The resulting amounts are added together to obtain the exact area of ​​the structure.

Where to start laying foam blocks

The construction of a foam concrete structure should begin with preparatory work. This includes removing construction debris from the site, dirt and dust from the surface of the foundation of the house. Then the masonry elements are prepared: it is advisable to inspect each block for irregularities, chips, burrs and severe damage. Products unsuitable for installation must be set aside and slightly damaged elements must be sanded.

The prepared base must be reinforced to enhance the strength of the structure. For this, a reinforcing mesh is used, which is laid every 4 rows, starting from the first. In the last 2 rows, the mesh must be placed in each of them.

If it is not possible to use a mesh, then it can be replaced with fiberglass added to the adhesive masonry. Such reinforcement reduces the consumption of the adhesive mixture and increases the thermal insulation of the walls.

Before starting masonry work, it is necessary to mark the wall line. To do this, a cord is pulled along the foundation and secured at the corner joints - it will serve as a guide for the masonry.

Planer for aerated concrete based on sandpaper

The basis of this version of the plane is moisture-resistant sandpaper 20 cm wide with an abrasiveness of about 40 (for rough work). In addition to this, you will need:

• a piece of flat multi-layer plywood;
• board for making a pen;
• screws, jigsaw, drill, stapler.

The handle can be cut with a jigsaw and then sanded. It is more convenient if it is higher on one side than on the other. The dimensions of the narrow side of the plywood base are determined by the width of the sandpaper strip, and its length can be made equal to the transverse size of the block or slightly larger.

The handle is screwed to the base with two screws. A countersink should be made for the screw heads, and it is advisable to drill holes in the handle so that it does not crack. Then a piece of sandpaper of the required length is cut and stapled to the ends of the base. The paper fastening may be different. The planer-grater for aerated concrete is ready.

DIY aerated concrete tool

A DIY aerated concrete tool will provide an opportunity to reduce the cost of masonry. Thanks to the simplicity of its design, even an inexperienced person can cope with the task.

Making a wall chaser from a grinder

In order to make a tool, it is recommended to install an additional disk on the grinder. The first disc is fixed using the usual method. In order to attach the second disk, you need to use another nut, which has a lock washer for fixation.

Hand protection while working with the tool is ensured thanks to a special casing, which is recommended to be installed beforehand. It ensures that dust is directed in the opposite direction when working with the tool. It is recommended to attach a vacuum cleaner mechanism to the rear of the casing. It is recommended to use clamps to secure the tube.

Homemade trowel

When making a homemade trowel, you need to take into account that the maximum load falls on the junction of the handle and the work bucket. Initially, a bucket template is cut out of paper, according to which markings are made on a sheet of steel. Cut out the workpiece. Next, using a mallet, we bend the ladle into the required shape on the anvil. Welding is used to fasten the seams.

Using a grinder, we make teeth on the working edge. To ensure a strong fastening of the handle, you need to drill a hole through its entire length. We also make a hole in the bucket that corresponds to the diameter of the rod. The rod is inserted into the hole of the bucket so that it is covered by the cap. On the other side of the rod, a thread is cut. We put a wooden base on the handle and secure it with a nut. In order to improve the quality of the connection, we place a washer-grower under the nut.

Planer for aerated concrete

The plane scraper is intended for leveling protruding parts of aerated concrete blocks. It is made from a wooden board, which has working elements on one side and a handle on the other. For working elements, carbide saw segments are used in the amount of 8-10 pieces.

Take a board whose thickness is 50 millimeters. Along its edges on each side you need to make 4-5 cuts at an angle of 65 degrees to the longitudinal axis of the base. You need to insert pre-prepared pieces of saw into the prepared grooves, first applying glue to them. The plane can be used after the glue has completely dried.

Let's make it ourselves: drawings and descriptions

In some cases, purchasing a ready-made trowel can be difficult for a number of reasons. You can get out of this situation by making a trowel yourself, which is quite possible. There are many options for manufacturing the device, from a complete copy of an industrial design made of sheet steel, to the use of a notched trowel, bent to obtain the desired width. If possible, you can make a tool pattern (reamer), which is applied to a sheet of metal. The development is cut along the contours, fold lines are drawn and teeth of the required size are cut out. To do this, you can use a hacksaw and a file. After this, the workpiece is bent along the intended lines until the required shape is obtained, the joints in the right places are secured by welding. All that remains is to attach the handle, and the tool is ready.

Tip: To make a drawing, take a sheet of paper and paper glue. Make the pattern by trial and error. When you are satisfied with the result, transfer the pattern to a metal sheet.

This video shows a version of the pattern and an example of applying glue using a manufactured device:

https://youtube.com/watch?v=0eNswmynAK4

If there are no materials or welding, you can get by with a regular notched trowel of a wider size than the blocks used. It bends along the edges, forming the desired width. The bent sections will serve as stops that do not allow the tool to be moved to the side. The volume of glue is applied using a regular ladle and immediately leveled with a spatula. This option is somewhat slower in operation, but it allows you to get out of the situation.

In conclusion, we should note the ease of working with the trowel, the speed of learning and the quality of work. The simplicity and efficiency of using the tool, combined with its necessity, makes the trowel for foam blocks the main device for high-quality laying of blocks, which determines the operational properties of the entire building.

I recommend that you immediately decide on a set of tools for aerated concrete and buy it in one place.

Buy or make – which is more profitable?

On the building materials market, you can purchase a factory-made gripper that has a special coating against corrosive formations. It is represented by three types of transverse type structures:

• for a block 25 x 30 cm;
• 35 x 40 cm;
• 45 x 50 cm.

The longitudinal version of the design can only be found in sizes 60 x 65 cm.

The cost of capture is from 1,500 rubles.

Unfortunately, tools are not always on sale, and construction deadlines are often tight, or another tool is needed. Everyone knows that at this time every ruble of the financial budget, which is intended for the purchase of materials, is taken into account. But you can make a simple device yourself by studying the diagrams of its structure.

For this you will need a strip of metal, nuts and screws, free time and desire. Moreover, the necessary tool will always be available - an electric drill and a hacksaw.

How to prepare a solution for laying foam blocks: step-by-step instructions

Before constructing a building from foam concrete blocks, you should first prepare all the necessary materials and tools for mixing the solution.

Required materials and tools

In the case of preparing a solution for foam concrete blocks, you won’t need much. If you make the mixture yourself, then from the materials you need to prepare Portland cement, quartz sand, the necessary additives, slaked lime and water. You will also need to prepare the following tools:

• a concrete mixer, or if it is not available, a large trough for preparing the solution;
• metal buckets;
• shovels and bayonet shovels.

Stages of mixing the solution

To make your task easier, you can simply purchase ready-made masonry adhesive. It can be found at any construction market or in a store. The rules for preparing the mixture are as follows:

1. It is diluted with clean water in a ratio of 1 kilogram of dry solution per 200 ml of liquid. Or 5-6 liters of water per 25 kilograms of mixture (standard bag).
2. Mixing is done in a bucket using a drill with a whisk attachment. This must be done carefully so that there are no unmixed dry lumps of the mixture left.
3. When the solution is ready, it should be allowed to mature for 7-10 minutes. Next, you need to mix it again.
4. The result should be a solution with a creamy consistency. It must be made plastic so that it does not spread when distributed over blocks using a notched trowel.
5. The solution is applied to the foam blocks in a layer, the thickness of which should be 2-5 millimeters.
6. If the mixture thickens, add a little water to it and mix well. The diluted glue must be used within 40 minutes.

The ready-made mixture is quite expensive, so it is better to save money and prepare the masonry mortar for foam concrete blocks with your own hands. How it's done:

1. If you do not have a concrete mixer, then place the dry mixture in a trough or other large container. Do this at the rate of one scoop of Portland cement to four shovels of sand.
2. Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
3. Then add water with additives diluted in it - foam additive and plasticizer.
4. After this, mix the solution until you get a homogeneous mass without lumps.

The resulting mixture should have a creamy consistency. If the solution is too liquid, add a little dry mixture to it; if it is thick, add water.

Carriage

The aerated concrete carriage is the most convenient tool in our review. Working with it goes very quickly, and the thickness of the seam is as uniform as possible. During the work process, the carriage is filled with masonry glue and driven along a row of aerated concrete blocks, the glue is evenly distributed along the jagged edge of the carriage.

Carriages come in different sizes, and these sizes were created specifically for gas blocks.

How is it permissible to unload pallets?

YTONG only allows three pallet loading and unloading options:

A forklift with a lifting capacity of at least 1.5 tons, provided that the distance between its forks is 800-870 mm (that is, it corresponds to the dimensions of the pallets that leave the YTONG factory). Only one pallet at a time is allowed to be unloaded.

C-shaped fork mounted on a manipulator or crane. The gripping capacity is at least 1.5 tons, the distance between the forks is 800-870 mm. Only one pallet at a time is allowed to be unloaded. If possible, YTONG recommends moving pallets only with a forklift or C-clamp, as they are the easiest way to ensure the safety of the cargo.

A crane (or manipulator) with two soft and wide lifting slings (chucks). In this case, each pallet is lifted with two loops hooked to a hook. The load capacity of each beam is at least 600 kg. The wider the line, the better. In addition, the sling must be of such a length that it extends beyond the pallet by at least 1 m. The chaffs must wrap around the bottom of the wooden pallet from opposite ends of the pallet. Each sling is inserted from the inside of the outermost bar of the pallet (on the corresponding side of the pallet) to prevent the sling from falling off the edge of the pallet. Soft slings can be extended with chains or steel cables with a load capacity of at least 600 kg each. But only on the condition that the chains or cables do not touch the corners of the pallet.

Attention: only one pallet at a time is allowed to be unloaded! If you move the entire row (3 pieces) at once, then the outer pallets will put pressure on the central one, and, as a result, the blocks in all three may be damaged. Unloading with chains or steel cables is strictly prohibited. It is also unacceptable to extend soft slings with chains, provided that the chains touch the pallet

The last unloading method (that is, a crane with two rigging slings) is the most common in Russia, but also the most problematic from the point of view of ensuring the integrity of the blocks. What's the problem? Typically, three pallets can be stacked in a row in the back of a truck. In this case, the pallets stand close to each other (the gap between them is no more than 2 cm). Therefore, with each delivery to the site, the question arises: how to spread the pallets in order to pick them up with chucks and take them out one at a time? And at the same time do not damage the cargo.

There are solutions to the problem, but they are valid only if they do not lead to deformation of the blocks:

• You can use a crowbar as a lever. Use it to hook a wooden pallet and carefully move it away from its neighbors until it becomes possible to thread slings under it.
• You can hook the pallet with a sling onto the outermost bar and carefully move it to the side with a crane. And then thread both straps under the pallet. In this case, the pallets should only be moved so that there is no skewing or deviation from the horizontal surface (when the sling is tensioned, the corner of the pallet should not rise).

Please note: the body may be equipped with anti-slip strips or other devices that prevent the load from moving along the floor while the vehicle is moving. What makes it difficult to move the pallets apart?

Check this point with the carrier in advance.

Be prepared for the fact that in the back of a truck, pallets are installed three in a row, and the distance between them is minimal. At the same time, unloading three pallets at the same time is unacceptable. If this rule is ignored and the crane removes three pallets from the body at a time, then the manufacturer is not responsible for possible defects in the blocks.

Examples of the problem below are unloading two or three pallets at the same time - this causes the pallets to press against each other, which can lead to cracking of the blocks.

Foam block laying technology

Before laying the first tier, the surface must be waterproofed (for example, with roofing felt), then an adhesive solution must be applied to the reinforced foundation. The thickness of the mixture layer can reach 3 cm. Then you can begin the construction of the first masonry.

Installation of the first row

When laying corner blocks, it is recommended to make a protrusion above the foundation structure of 5 cm so that moisture does not accumulate at low tide, leading to the destruction of load-bearing walls.

The first tier is placed using a trowel on a cement-sand composition, while the side walls of the blocks are also coated. Vertical joints must be filled with the mixture in full. The thickness of the glue layer in the horizontal row should be at least 1.5 cm, and the vertical layer of the solution should be at least 1 cm. In the warm season, it is advisable to moisten the surface of the foam block with water to increase the adhesion of the material.

Installation of the second row

The second line is laid with vertical joints offset by at least a third of the length of the element. It is considered optimal to bandage half the length of the block from the bottom masonry.

The blocks should be laid using construction adhesive, the thickness of which should be at least 5 mm; after pressing down the masonry elements, this thickness can decrease to 3 mm. The glue is applied with a notched trowel.

When laying, it is necessary to check the evenness of the lines with a level and plumb line. To enhance the strength of the structure, it is recommended to reinforce with metal rods, placing them every 3 lines in the drilled grooves in the foam blocks of the previous tier. It should be remembered that the rods should not protrude beyond the surface of the blocks.

How to tie stitches

It is advisable to construct external load-bearing fences in two rows, otherwise the thickness of the walls will be too small, and the masonry must be reinforced with metal mesh. If the blocks are laid with butts, then the masonry elements should be placed perpendicular to the main masonry.

When constructing internal walls, which are load-bearing or partitions, individual masonry elements can be joined in one of 3 ways:

1. With combination on part of the block. In this case, the element can be wedged into the line of the main masonry by 20 cm.
2. With full dressing. The first masonry block enters to its full depth and intersects with the masonry row of the outer walls.
3. Close to external enclosing structures. In this case, there is no need to bandage the seams; the block is placed close to the wall.

When laying foam blocks close to a load-bearing wall and combining the element, reinforcement will be required for every 3 tiers of masonry. In the case of complete ligation, there is no need to insert reinforcement into the walls.

If the length of one masonry element exceeds the width of the load-bearing walls, then the block can be trimmed.

What is better - buy or make a grip yourself?

Buying, of course, is always easier, especially when you don’t have the necessary metal or the skills to work with it at hand. Factory-made devices are often adjustable; they can be used to carry both blocks with a width of 100 and 400 mm. This is the first and very big plus. The second is that the metal from which the grip is made is coated with an anti-corrosion compound or made of galvanized steel.

If the tool is non-adjustable, and the required size is also not on sale or it is too expensive (the Itong grip, for example, costs 4,800 rubles as of August 2020), you will have to make the grip yourself or order it from a workshop.

Advantages and disadvantages of the tool

Let's summarize all the pros and cons of the device, with the help of which work can be done much faster

The unit cannot be damaged during transportation

The tool is safe for the person moving aerated concrete

The grips are easy to use, the block can not only be carried, but also quickly and easily turned over

The block fixation is very reliable

Thanks to the grip, you can install the block in the masonry most accurately

Can be used not only for gas block, but also for brick and other types of masonry material

If the tool is non-adjustable, it cannot be adjusted to a different size.

Main types of unloading belts

Depending on the location of the armored belt, it can have different names and take on certain functions:

1. Grillage - placed between the columnar or pile foundation of the house and the walls. However, they don’t build it out of brick - it’s too important a site.
2. The plinth is the second level of unloading and reinforcement, which is used in the construction of houses on a foundation made of concrete blocks. It provides the base with greater rigidity on moving soils and is also made of reinforced concrete. Although a fairly common option is brickwork, which serves as permanent formwork for subsequent pouring.
3. Unloading is an intermediate reinforced belt under the floor slabs, which not only takes on their weight, but also ensures the rigidity of the building above one floor at each level. When building from lightweight concrete blocks, you cannot do without it, and here the best way is brick.
4. A support under the Mauerlat is a mandatory element of a house made of aerated concrete or other porous blocks that do not easily absorb point and multidirectional loads. In addition, fastening the timber itself with studs in such walls turns out to be unreliable even when using chemical anchoring. Here, the reinforced belt for walls made of aerated concrete turns into a kind of connection between the blocks with which it is connected with mortar, and the roof truss, reinforced through a mauerlat beam.

Features of laying on aerated concrete

As a rule, the brick belt is made 4-7 rows high and the width of the wall being strengthened. Reinforcement must be performed in each horizontal seam using a steel mesh with a cell size of 3-4 cm or rigid wire with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of conventional brick walls:

• with seams offset by 1/3 of the length;
• with tie dressing in every third row.

If the reinforced belt for aerated concrete made of brick serves as a support for the mauerlat, you can immediately wall up vertical pins - metal threaded rods with a diameter of 12-16 mm - into the masonry. They are installed in increments of 1-1.5 m, and the depth of their embedding will depend on the thickness of the beam - it should be twice as long as the free end for attaching the Mauerlat. However, many builders advise immediately embedding cuttings to the entire height of the armored belt.

After the mortar has set, roofing felt or two layers of roofing felt are spread on the surface of the masonry. This is waterproofing that will protect the timber itself and the brick superstructure from the accumulation of condensing moisture. Next, the Mauerlat is outlined and drilled at the required points, threaded onto the stud releases and fixed on the reinforcement belt with nuts for wide washers.

Since ceramics have greater thermal conductivity than the main wall material, it turns into a kind of cold bridge (although monolithic reinforced concrete in this case behaves even worse). To avoid problems during the further operation of the building in winter, you can try to “close” the contour of the cellular blocks in parallel with laying the bricks. To do this, a thin GB partition is removed from the side of the premises, as if hiding the armored belt inside the aerated concrete wall. If a gap has formed between the surfaces, experts recommend additional thermal insulation.

Regular trowel and notched trowel

You can use a regular construction trowel and a notched trowel . Apply glue with a trowel and level it with a spatula. This pair can be used to process both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

The disadvantages of these tools are that it becomes more difficult to regulate the thickness of the glue, and this thickness depends on the inclination of the spatula; the greater the inclination, the thinner the layer. You will always need to hold the spatula at the same angle.

Devices for applying glue to aerated concrete

Separately, it is worth noting a tool for quickly and uniformly applying glue to aerated concrete blocks. The durability and strength of the masonry largely depends on it.

The material used to manufacture the device is a metal sheet made of polished galvanized steel. The thickness of the sheet allows you to work with heavy solutions when distributing them vertically and horizontally. In this case, the shape and width of the trowel depends on the type of work being performed.

The advantages of the device include the following:

• ability to apply a thin layer of glue – up to 0.3 cm;
• provides a uniform adhesive layer over the entire surface;
• When applied, it prevents the composition from getting on the side surfaces of the blocks.

The carriage allows you to evenly distribute the adhesive solution of the required thickness onto a horizontal straight plane. During work, you may need a 6 cm long spatula. Use it to rub chips and seams on the surface of the tub.

“Device” for forming an adhesive layer

Adhesive spreader

The essence of this product is very simple - maximum acceleration of the application of the adhesive layer for laying blocks. To do this you need:

1. Make a box on a skid. It should move easily along the row of the wall and will not move off it. To do this, the side walls should hang from the row by 1-2 cm
2. The device is equipped with a spatula for uniform application of the solution - it is better to use a notched trowel. At the same time, fix it at an angle of 40-50° - this way it will be better to apply glue to the row
3. Since the width of the adhesive layer is needed to be somewhat narrower than the block row - excess glue will not be squeezed out when installing the block - the device must be equipped with restrictive bars from the inside.

To make it you will need:

• Notched trowel
• Board 100-150 mm wide and about 1 m long
• 10-20 mm block, about 40-50 cm long
• Fastening: self-tapping screws
• Wood hacksaw
• Screwdriver
• Axe

Notched trowel

Stages of manufacturing a device for laying glue

Laying gas silicate

• Preparation of blanks

To make the sidewalls of the device, you need to prepare two boards of the same length, 30 cm each, on one side the boards are cut at an angle of 40-50°.

You also need a back wall made of wood with a length corresponding to the width of the stacked blocks, plus 5 mm for a technological gap - so that the box does not get stuck on the row.

For limiters, cut two 10-20 mm bars. Their length corresponds to the length of the side planks minus the thickness of the back wall. Don't forget on one side at an angle the same as the sidewalls.

Design of the adhesive spreader

• Assembling the adhesive spreader

One limiting block is attached to the side walls lengthwise with self-tapping screws. To do this, the block is applied to the side board so that it is located from the end of the sidewall at a distance of the thickness of the rear wall, and from below - at a distance of 1-2 cm.

Next, the back wall of the device is attached to the sidewalls so that it is between the side walls. The bottom of the board should correspond to the boundary bars along their lower edge.

The result should be a U-shaped structure with legs sawn off at an angle. A notched trowel is attached to these legs at the same level as the back wall with limit bars.

The equipment for laying the glue is ready. To protect yourself from skidding while working, the sharp edges of the device can be trimmed with an ax and sanded.

Reinforcement bender

This device will come in handy at the very first stages of construction. Someone bends reinforcement with their bare hands, but you can quickly make a homemade mini-machine for bending reinforcement.

There are many versions of this device; in essence, it is just a lever with stops for fittings. The simplest option can be made from a piece of pipe, a garage hinge and a corner.

The pipe is welded to the corner. A hole is made into which half of the garage hinge will be inserted. A handle from a corner is welded to the loop. A bend limiter is welded from corner cuttings.

Masonry hooks

Hooks can be made from profile pipe. To connect the two handles, plates cut from corners are welded to the pipes. The two handles are connected with a bolt for free movement. The hinge needs to be moved towards the edge to increase grip strength. The gap under the handle should not be too large, but sufficient for a two-handed grip. When folded, the width of the gripping part should be 5-7 mm larger than the block, so that there is no too much movement of the handles.

The gripping plates are cut from 5 mm thick channel. There is no need to make it thicker so that it is convenient to move the block directly to the glue. One plate has dimensions 75x85, the second 90x75. The second plate is longer because the pipes are fixed offset.

The handle must be made non-slip, and a cap must be placed on the end of the pipe to prevent the hand from slipping off. The gripping force is very powerful; the device easily lifts 2 heavy concrete blocks. Nothing falls out. But safety precautions must be observed.

Clamp-gripper for gas silicate. | Do It Yourself www.sdelay.tv

Construction season is starting soon.

For ease of laying and moving the gas silicate block, a gripping clamp is required. or buy a block with an existing grip, which is quite more expensive. although in most cases people work hard with their bare hands and the flag is in their hands :)

Like all my homemade products, this one was made from what I had on hand.

in this case, the mounting plate is 120*270*6mm

the plate is level.

divided into two equal parts

and was cut. This resulted in 2 equal plates with approximate dimensions: 2720*60*6mm, from which a direct gripper and pliers will be made.

We weld a nut to one of the plates, exactly in the center. to another profile, in my case 20*40*1.5mm.

We take the nut based on the internal space of the profile. in my case 30mm. core and drill in the center with an 8.5mm drill. we make “curtains”.

mark, core and drill the profile. On one edge the curtain with a plate will be fixed; on the other, a plate will be attached.

We take the profile size (length) based on the width of the gas silicate. in my case, 400*625*250-gas silicate means profile = 400mm.

This is how the “curtain” should be positioned

Well, something like this. For those who did not understand from the description, I hope they will figure it out based on the assembled structure. The general process of assembling the tool.

after painting it looks like this. To work with two hands you need two clamps :)))

The principle of work is this))):

- we take it in our hand like this)))

lower it onto the block. and take the handle with your hand.

lift and carry. everything is very reliable, extremely convenient and practical))) for laying the block, due to the large weight, two grips are required for convenience.

The little girl doesn't have any trouble with her arms or shoulders.

Good luck to all, friends “crazy”

sdelay.tv

Distinctive features of laying foam blocks

Exterior finishing of a house made of foam blocks.

In addition to cement mortar, an adhesive solution can be used to bond the foam concrete together.

The seams should be filled completely with mortar so that there are no voids left in them.

The installation of walls made of foam blocks is necessarily accompanied by a reinforcement procedure.

Before installing the concrete floor, a reinforced concrete belt is made on top of the masonry.

Knowing the technological methods for producing foam concrete helps a lot in deciding what composition (cement or adhesive) to build walls with. There are only two such options: either by pouring the foam concrete mixture into special forms, or by cutting the monolithic material into blocks of the required sizes.

With the second option, the blocks are identical to each other, since there are much fewer deviations from the specified parameters. At the same time, it is more convenient to glue them together with an adhesive composition specially designed for this purpose. If you build a building using this technology, it will be characterized by clear geometry, and the masonry of the walls will be even. Therefore, covering them with cladding will be much easier and more economical (both in time and money).

Scheme of reinforcement of foam concrete walls.

How to lay foam blocks made in special shapes? The technology for laying molded foam concrete with your own hands involves the use of cement-sand mortar in the classic ratio of 1 to 3. Using the mortar, unevenness on the blocks and deviations in their dimensional parameters are achieved. The process of laying foam concrete blocks on cement mortar is carried out in this case with preliminary wetting of the blocks to ensure uniform drying of the mortar and the required strength of the masonry.

What requirements to adhere to in your work and how to lay foam blocks according to the rules will be discussed further.

Difficulties with long vehicles getting to the site

Some cottage villages do not allow long vehicles to enter their territory, while the most popular way of transporting aerated concrete is using trucks (standard trailer length is 13.5-14 m, total length with a tractor is up to 24 m). In addition, it is often difficult or even impossible for trucks to enter an old holiday village with narrow roads. The customer must inform the distributor or carrier about these features in advance in order to jointly select the optimal delivery method.

Among these methods:

• The truck stops at a site outside the village. And from there to the site, the pallets are transported by a small truck with a manipulator.
• The cargo is delivered on a tractor and semi-trailer equipped with a manipulator. The car is also parked outside the village. Then only the tractor drives to the site, unloads, and then returns to the semi-trailer, transfers the pallets from it to its body, drives up to the site again and unloads.

The main points of the technology of laying foam blocks during the construction of walls

In order to lay out a foam block house, and at the same time the quality of the walls made of foam blocks is high, you need to know the sequence and rules for laying foam concrete.

1. Before laying foam blocks, it is necessary to prepare the concrete surfaces. Namely: to clear the concrete of dirt and dust it. If defective areas (for example, cracks) are found on the material, they must be repaired.
2. Laying foam blocks with your own hands in the first row involves making a waterproofing layer using a specialized material. This can be a liquid insulating agent or a rolled material (roofing material, waterproofing material). The waterproofing layer will prevent the growth of fungal bacteria on the material.
3. After preparing the base, they proceed to preparing the blocks themselves. Block surfaces are cleaned of dirt or snow. For minor chips, the material is also processed, removing sharp edges and chamfers.
4. The first row of masonry under any circumstances is carried out using cement mortar. Therefore, we next begin to apply a solution consisting of sand and cement. The solution, as noted above, is prepared taking into account the proportional ratio between bulk materials - 1 to 3. The layer thickness should be approximately 2 cm.
5. The very first to be laid is the so-called cornerstone, or block at the corner. Then the masonry continues along the entire perimeter of the building. The laying is carried out in two rows, while ensuring the uniform distribution of the adhesive or cement composition over the block surface. Layer thickness - no more than 30 mm. Glue is purchased in 25 kg bags. The adhesive is prepared shortly before laying the block material.
6. After laying the foam blocks with your own hands in the first row of the wall, check the evenness using a level ruler. If distortions are detected, they are eliminated using any grinding device.
7. The blocks in the second row are laid using a lightweight mortar.

Building level

Simply an irreplaceable tool that no construction site can do without. Construction levels can be mechanical (bubble) or electronic. Different levels differ in accuracy. Often, the more expensive the level, the more accurately it shows. For laying aerated concrete, models of levels in the middle and low price range are quite suitable.

The optimal length of a building level for masonry is 80 cm. But it is not always convenient to use a long level; there are situations, especially inside the house, when a short level (40 cm) would be preferable.

Of the specific manufacturers of building levels, we would recommend Kapro. These levels do not need to be double-checked and calibrated; the accuracy is excellent.

Construction level

A high-precision electronic device that emits two lasers, one strictly vertically, the other strictly horizontally. Levels differ from each other in accuracy classes and laser power.

The more powerful the laser beam, the better it is visible, this is especially important on a clear sunny day. In general, the level helps to construct planes at right angles.

Types of grips

The device is a universal claw-type device. It is used in construction work and in other industries. With the help of such a grip, you can easily carry loads to their destination. The gripper cheeks are equipped with linings that prevent mechanical damage to the material. In accordance with GOST, the gripper is made of high-quality steel material and coated with yellow paint.

The tool is divided into two groups:

• transverse - you can use it to hold and move the block alone, using both hands. Carrying is possible with one hand;
• longitudinal - compresses the material, which you have to carry with a partner. The tool is larger in size; you can move several blocks at the same time.

The first group can have one of 3 grip sizes - 25 - 30, 35 - 40, 45 - 50. The second group is made in only one version - 60 - 65.

It should be noted that each type of device differs. The transverse set consists of two symmetrically located grips. The mechanism is such that one block of a certain size can be grasped and carried, corresponding to the range of the device.

It is more important to use hand grips for blocks with smooth surfaces. Their configuration reduces the consumption of adhesive, but there are some difficulties in moving the material. The gripping device will not only make your work easier, but will also help you create high-quality masonry thanks to the high precision of installation of the block material.

When choosing a suitable tool, it is recommended to first determine the thickness of the gas silicate walls.

Design and operating principle

Structurally, the carrying clamp for piece materials is a device of 4 curved levers arranged like “scissors”. The elements are fastened together using a hinged joint that ensures mobility. Multifunctional grips additionally have a ring for hanging on the hook of a lifting mechanism.

The principle of operation of the tool: the lower ends of the levers with clamping plates grip the gas block on both sides, under the influence of the weight of the block the clamp is sealed. Grip strength increases with increasing mass of material being transported. That is, the heavier the block, the less likely it is to slip out.

To grab an aerated concrete block, you need to do the following:

• bring the tool to the block on both sides;
• put the stopper in the upper position;
• Carefully lift the gripper with the load.

Expert opinion Vitaly Kudryashov builder, aspiring author

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The gas block is clamped automatically at the moment of lifting under the influence of gravity. There is no chance of the load falling.

To free a block you need to:

• lower the gas block to the surface;
• move the stopper to the down position;
• lift the tool without a load.

Tool for working with aerated concrete blocks

It is faster to build a house from aerated concrete blocks than from bricks. In order for the material to retain its thermal insulation properties, the thickness of the seam between the masonry elements is reduced to 2–5 mm. With the help of properly selected glue and tools for its application, you can save time and nerves. In the article we will tell you what is best to use and when, and whether there is a difference between the quality of specialized and universal equipment.

To cut blocks, you need a sharp, fine-toothed hacksaw. There are special saws for aerated concrete. They are thicker than other types in order to saw high-strength elements, but builders also use non-specialized saws, the main thing is that they are sharp and have tipped teeth. It is faster and more convenient to cut with a reciprocating or band saw. They cost starting from 10 thousand rubles. Apply markings to the gas blocks or cut them with a square so as not to spoil the geometry. You can solder the angle yourself.

You need to lay grooves for communications and fittings with a special cutter. They are manual and electric. If you want to save money, you can attach a second disk to the grinder, which would remove dust during operation.

2. How to apply glue?

For glue, use a trowel one block wide with teeth. Manufacturers of aerated concrete such as Aerok, H+H and Itong produce it according to the dimensions of their products. But scooping up glue with a wide tool is inconvenient. The trowel is easy to break, so it is better to buy a spare one so as not to interrupt construction at the wrong time.

If these companies are not represented in your region, finding a suitable trowel can be a problem, but it’s easy to find templates on the Internet to make your own from a sheet of metal or attach a trowel to a ladle for scooping mortar. Some articles advise applying the glue with a trowel and leveling it with a notched trowel, but if you have little experience in masonry, this will lead to excess consumption of the adhesive solution. To increase the speed of work on straight sections, it is convenient to use a carriage. Its size should correspond to the width of the blocks to create a thin seam.

3. How to level the wall?

The edges of aerated concrete blocks must be smooth and even. To do this, use a sanding board if the flaws are minor and concrete planes in more serious cases. Products with good geometry do not need much adjustment, so by choosing high-quality building material, you will simplify all the work. To increase the speed, use a grinder. You can use a rubber mallet to fit one block tightly to another. A metal hammer will damage the wall, although there is also a way out - pick up a rubber nozzle.

Do not forget to check the levelness and the building cord after each laid block. After 10-20 minutes, depending on the glue, it will be difficult to change the situation

It is especially important to place the first row correctly

If you have blocks without special handles, it is inconvenient to lay them evenly in a row, which is why large aerated concrete manufacturers sell grips for different sizes.

• trowel, carriage, spatula;
• hand saw for aerated concrete or electric saw;
• square;
• wall chaser;
• level and rope.

In addition to the basic set you will need:

• brush for cleaning blocks from dust before laying;
• pencil;
• bucket, mixer or drill with an attachment for stirring glue.

When choosing equipment, you need to take into account the period of time (it is better to lay blocks in the summer, in clear weather) and the number of workers. It is difficult to build a box of a two-story house with hand tools in one season, unless you work all day. Electric saws and a grinding machine increase the pace of construction significantly.

Not everyone can make a high-quality instrument with their own hands, so if you have the opportunity to purchase everything in a store, do not neglect it.

The table shows average prices current at the beginning of 2016. The data was collected on the websites of official suppliers and large construction stores in Russia.

Gripper for aerated concrete - what is it?

A gripper for aerated concrete blocks is a hand-held tool that significantly simplifies working with the material and increases labor productivity. The purpose of the device is to simplify the carrying and installation of blocks when building walls. Just 5-10 years ago, grippers were used only on large-scale construction sites. Today, in any hardware store you can buy a metal clamp for a gas block of any size. The price of a tool depends on its type, overall length/width, load capacity, and manufacturer.

The average price of a gripping device in Moscow is:

• a simple Chinese tool for private construction - from 1,500 rubles;
• Russian-made clamp with a load capacity of up to 100 kg - from 2500 rubles;
• a grip that can be used with mechanical lifting mechanisms - from 5,000 rubles.

Expert opinion Vitaly Kudryashov builder, aspiring author

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Despite its excellent functionality, the device has a simple design. You can do the grip yourself so as not to spend money on buying a factory tool.

Below we will tell you how to make a grab with your own hands.

Device for laying blocks

A homemade device was invented to simplify the laying of cinder blocks. In the absence of experience, it is quite difficult to maintain a seam line of the same thickness. Therefore, we constantly had to remove cinder blocks, throw up or level the layer of mortar. Taking into account the weight of the cinder block, the result was a labor-intensive operation, and it took a lot of time.

I wanted to come up with a device that would make laying blocks easier. The result was a sled made of two pipes with a diameter of 15 mm, secured by two 40x20 mm profiles. One profile is welded at the ends of the pipes, the second - with a slight indentation so that the device is firmly fixed. The length of the pipes from the free edge to the first profile is approximately 150 mm longer than the length of the cinder block.

Laying cinder blocks using a device

We lay the device with its profiles facing up.

We pour the solution and align it with the height of the pipes of the device.

The solution should be of medium thickness so that the weight of the block does not squeeze it out. Then we lay the cinder block indented onto the finger.

We pull the sled to the side without any extra effort.

Using a level, tapping a hammer to level the cinder block (it will not lie flat on its own). The outer side is aligned with the stretched cord. Perfect accuracy is not needed because the wall will be tiled.

Note: when pulling out the slide, the block must be held with your hand.

Lay the next block and level the mortar level with a trowel. After this, fill the seams between the blocks with mortar. When laying with the help of such a device, the problem of setting the corners is also solved - the blocks do not move horizontally.

As a result…

It is quite possible to make such simple designs as devices for laying blocks, which significantly speed up the process of forming the adhesive layer and the masonry itself. There are many different types of such devices. I talked about two of them - a wooden box with a spatula and a structure made of pipes. Choose and make the device that is most suitable for your specific situation.

Question

Write in the comments what you think are more reliable devices for laying aerated blocks - homemade or factory-made

What materials are used?

The classic reinforcement of aerated concrete wall structures is the installation of steel rods with a smooth or profiled surface. The Russian construction market offers new, more effective reinforcing materials:

1. Knitting steel wire “Kazachka” is produced in the form of short pieces and technological rings. The use of this modification saves time on cutting rods.
2. Composite mesh is an innovative building material.
   In structure, it resembles a steel reinforced mesh, only it is produced on the basis of fiberglass or basalt threads. Weighing 6 times less than traditional mesh, it is twice as strong as traditional mesh. It is environmentally friendly and has increased resistance to aggressive elements, is not conductive and has no magnetic properties. Its very important advantage is low thermal conductivity, and therefore it is not capable of creating “cold bridges”. The material is non-corrosive and can be successfully used for more than 100 years.
3. Steel punched tape for installation is made from a strip with holes punched out on the surface. For aerated concrete walls, such a strip is used with a thickness of at least 1 mm and a width of 16 mm. Its main advantage is ease of installation, since there is no need to groove the surface; fixation occurs with self-tapping screws. Minus - the tape does not work with polyurethane foam, only on an adhesive solution.
4. Fiberglass reinforcement in the form of a cord wrapped in a spiral with a thread made of a similar material to ensure reliable adhesion to the masonry mortar. During the installation process, fiberglass reinforcement is connected to each other with special sleeves, forming an effective reinforced belt with low thermal conductivity, low weight and long service life.
   The use of this type of reinforcing material reduces shipping costs for delivering the material to the construction site. The downside is the fact that it is not recommended for use in seismically active areas.

Additional materials

High-quality laying of foam blocks involves the use of the following materials:

• masonry mortar;
• reinforcing mesh;
• reinforcing steel bar;
• waterproofing agents.

Masonry solutions

Above the first row for laying foam concrete, a ready-made polymer-cement mixture is used, sold in paper bags, packaged 25 kg.
Above the first row, ready-made polymer-cement mixture is used for laying foam concrete, sold in paper bags, packaged 25 kg. To prepare a working solution (construction adhesive), just mix the mixture with water in the proportions indicated on the package with a hand-held construction mixer.

Important. For laying foam blocks, it is necessary to use only special glue intended for these purposes. It is incorrect to use polymer-cement mixtures for other purposes (for installing tiles, polystyrene slabs, basalt insulation mats, etc.).

To lay the first row of foam concrete, you will need a classic cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. Often, a lime version of the mortar is used for this, when a third part (by volume) of slaked lime (paste) is added to the cement-sand mixture.

Reinforcing materials

Foam concrete has good compressive strength, but its fracture and tensile strength characteristics require additional reinforcement

Foam concrete has good compressive strength, but its fracture and tensile strength characteristics require additional reinforcement. For this purpose, reinforcing masonry mesh and reinforcing steel rods are used. They are not mounted continuously. Fiberglass mesh should be laid between the blocks in 3-4 rows, and steel reinforcement (rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm are used) in places of greatest load (corners, openings). If it is necessary to construct a reinforcing belt, you will additionally need steel reinforcement and tying wire to create a continuous reinforcing structure.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing materials are needed to create a moisture barrier between the foundation (basement) and the first row of foam concrete

Waterproofing materials are needed to create a moisture barrier between the foundation (basement) and the first row of foam concrete. Considering the porosity of wall building materials and the ability to actively absorb moisture, in this case there are increased requirements for waterproofing. Double protection is usually used - first a layer of bitumen mastic on the surface of the base, then 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing material (roofing felt, waterproofing material, etc.)

Construction technology from gas silicate blocks

The work of laying gas silicate is not very difficult, the main thing is to adhere to a few rules.

• The blocks must be smooth and have a homogeneous structure; if necessary, the surface can be cleaned with a plane;
• Each installed block is checked for evenness using a building level;
• It is better to use tongue-and-groove blocks, they provide a stronger connection;
• First of all, the corner elements are installed with the tenon facing outward;
• The gas silicate block is laid using cement mortar or special adhesive for cellular concrete;
• On every third or fourth row a layer of reinforcement is laid;

Below is a detailed description of step-by-step instructions for laying gas silicate blocks with your own hands.

Block aligner

Sometimes when laying gas blocks, small irregularities of 2-3 mm are formed. The geometry of the blocks is especially critical when laying them on adhesive foam. To correct such protrusions, a grater is made from a block and a nail plate. Without any effort, the unevenness goes away in a couple of movements. Don't forget to remove any dust before applying glue. For convenience, you can make several graters: a double one for leveling the wall and a short hand one.

Instructions for use

Device for laying blocks

The procedure is elementary. To work you need an adhesive solution, the consistency is normal. The adhesive spreader is placed at the end of the wall row and work begins.

Step No. 1 - loading the device with adhesive solution

Using a spatula, glue is loaded inside the box. There is no need to put a lot of solution - it will be difficult to work with.

Step No. 2 - forming an adhesive layer

Pull the device away from the comb. If the glue spreader gets stuck, then you need to move it back and forth a little, and it will go easier.

Apply glue to the end of the block

Don’t forget about treating the end of the previous block in the row with glue. Apply glue.

Forming the layer thickness

Excess should be removed with a notched spatula.

Step No. 3 - install the block

Place a block along the cord

We install gas silicate locally. Align with the cord. The block installation cycle is completed.

Step #4 – repeat the cycle

We follow the cycle algorithm shown in the steps in the photo below.

Installing a gas silicate block

If necessary, we knock

Step No. 5 – quality control of installation, elimination of defects

After laying several blocks (3-4), until the glue has set, we check the quality of installation.

Using a bubble level, we check the level of the laid out blocks in two planes.

We hit the block with a mallet

If necessary, we eliminate defects. We use a mallet.

Hacksaw

When laying aerated concrete blocks, there is often a need for trimming to adjust the length of the walls to the design values. Aerated concrete is a sufficiently soft and friable material that it can be cut with a regular carpenter's hacksaw. However, its dimensions are inconvenient for working with blocks whose width reaches 40 cm. Therefore, there are special hacksaws for aerated concrete with increased blade length and tooth height on sale. Their teeth are equipped with carbide tips so that the tool retains its functionality longer and does not require frequent sharpening.

Rules for masonry

Scheme for installing a wall made of foam blocks.

In order to be able to build a reliable building for many years, you should study some rules for laying foam concrete material.

The entire length of the foam concrete is treated with the adhesive mixture using a special spatula, the serrated side of which is used to level the mixture.

Important: during the installation of blocks, control is carried out over each element erected on the mortar. If the mixture yield is small, the excess is removed. When the element is moved, it is trimmed and returned to the desired position by hitting it with a rubber hammer.

The main rule provided for by the technology of laying foam blocks is to perform proper dressing. In this case, the vertical displacement of the seams is provided on the order of 0.4 of the block height.

The connection to the load-bearing part of the structure is ensured by means of stainless steel binding. The technology of reinforcing the wall plane is in demand in cases of making openings for windows and doors, supporting roof elements, beams and floor slabs, for two layers of foam block masonry - the top and the final one.

Comparative table of characteristics of foam and gas blocks.

Please note: the mesh for reinforcement has a good ability to stretch under tension, which makes its use especially relevant in order to protect against cracking or other types of damage to the walls of a future structure.

When laying block material, reinforcement can also be used with a 10 mm diameter. Its installation is carried out on formwork made of boards, which is subsequently filled with concrete mixture.

It is possible to lay block material on U-shaped blocks, for which a reinforcement frame is mounted in the niche of the latter. At the same time, when pouring concrete mortar, be sure to check that the reinforcement is completely covered with the mixture. The reinforced belt is dried for 30 days. And only then do they move on to the subsequent laying of the material.