Recently, single-board computers have become increasingly popular in the electronics world. Despite the fact that they were invented a long time ago, many still do not know what kind of device it is and what it is needed for. The name of the device itself suggests that it consists of several modules that are assembled on one card. System elements can be sold assembled or as separate elements.
The internal structure of the mini-PC is similar to its older “brother”. The following components are usually installed on the motherboard: microprocessor, RAM, connectors for data input and output, and other elements. Various sensors (temperature, light), a screen for displaying information, etc. can be installed separately. Such computer equipment is not characterized by high performance, however, due to its compact size and low power consumption, it has a wide range of applications - they can be used as a small home audio studio, as a transmitter device for peering, and also as a game console (for this you will have to make an emulator, this technique is applicable only to old games).
In this review, we will find out what types of microcomputers there are, get acquainted with the principle of their operation, and also tell you what to look for when purchasing in order not to make mistakes when choosing.
Xbox, move over: we're building a mini PC that can do it all
For a long time, miniature but powerful PCs were the preserve of Intel: energy efficiency and performance left enthusiasts no choice. Now the balance of power has changed with the cold and fast Ryzen. And even with powerful built-in graphics. Let's see how it feels in a compact case.
Assembly in the ITX format imposes a number of restrictions: there is little space, components must be selected wisely, and cooling must be organized efficiently. Add a meager range of components (there is little demand for such assemblies), a high price and difficulty in finding spare parts “without trying them on” - and you will understand why they ask for so much money for factory compact assemblies. Shall we resolve all the problems ourselves?
Tips for Followers
- The drill stand made it possible to drill all the holes evenly and accurately. If you do it by hand, you need it. I bought it specifically for this case for $30.
- A good ($3.5) 3mm tap is a must have. A special tap for aluminum produced a more “relaxed” thread. I liked the carving more than the usual one for machine cutting.
- The 6-32 (inch) tap is rare and optional. In aluminum, you can easily screw a self-tapping screw from a good case kit into a 3mm hole.
- Avoid using fasteners from cheap housings - there is a high probability of breaking the screw in the hole.
- Bent parts in the body are still needed; without them, it turns out to be Lego from scraps. In my version, these are 3 parts: a power supply mount and 2 corner rings for the rear panel.
- A finished back panel increases the cost of the case and imposes restrictions on the size (although it is beautiful and there is no hassle with bending a corner).
- Not all cutting boards are level. Mine may have started to leak after drilling. There is a curvature of up to 1mm in the middle. When purchasing, check.
