Fire starter fluid and the ability to do it yourself

Kindling usually refers to special liquid chemical compositions used to start a fire. As a rule, lighter fluid sold in stores is used to start a fire on a picnic or a short trip to nature. By this word we will generally understand any means that help light a fire, including tinder and kindling.

Fire ignition can be liquid, gas, solid, industrially or manually made, of natural and anthropogenic origin. Most often used as ignition:

Dry fuel, or, as it is also called, dry alcohol, is one of the most famous and most convenient means for lighting a fire.

Special liquids for igniting fire, purchased and made by yourself;
Flammable liquids intended for other purposes;
Gels for ignition;
Dry fuel;
Plexiglas;
Plastic;
Rubber;
Paraffin and wax candles;
Cotton wool with impregnation;
Plasticine;
Napalm surrogate;
Some food products;
Paper;
A mixture of pine resin and wood.

Next, we will take a closer look at all these options, as well as options for ignition made from natural raw materials that can be found in nature, if ignition is not at hand, but you still need to make a fire.

Fire starting fluids

These liquids are poured over solid fuels, such as coals or fuel briquettes, to help the fire burn faster. In finished form, such liquids are purchased in specialized markets and stores.

Lighter fluids usually consist of hydrocarbons and liquid paraffins. Such liquids are relatively safe for cooking, for example, barbecue, that is, when burned, they emit almost no toxic substances that can spoil food cooked over a fire. However, such safety is not absolute: accidental ingestion or inhalation of lighter fluid can harm the body, causing poisoning. Therefore, you should keep this product away from children.

There are many known cases where a child drank lighter fluid, which usually ended the outdoor recreation - the poisoned child had to be taken to the hospital.

A person mistakenly cannot drink large quantities of such liquid because it usually causes a burning sensation in the mouth. If a small amount is swallowed, vomiting often occurs, which, due to the inhalation of volatile substances in lighter fluid and partly the contents of the stomach, can lead to lung damage, and when absorbed into the blood, it can damage the kidneys, liver and brain. It is difficult to talk about specific symptoms of poisoning due to the fact that lighter fluids from different manufacturers can vary greatly in composition.

Another feature of such liquids is the absence of a pungent odor, which, for example, gasoline has.

Using lighter fluids is simple, but you need to know that you must pour them strictly before starting a fire, and then throw a burning match into the fuel soaked in the liquid or light it with a long lighter.

Attention!
It is prohibited to pour flammable lighter fluids into an already burning fire, even if only coals are smoldering in it! Failure to comply with this rule has repeatedly led to burns, fires and even explosions of a container with a flammable mixture - the fire can spread along the jet. When a fire occurs, you should extinguish it by throwing earth or sand over the burning fuel: water poured into the burning liquid will only worsen the already sad situation.

The video shows what can result from improper handling of gasoline when making a fire:

Despite their popularity, such liquids are not very suitable for tourism, since they perform only one function, while multifunctionality is characteristic of tourist equipment.

Reviews of liquid "Eco-standard"

This lighter fluid, which contains a mixture of liquid paraffins, is toxic. If the product gets on exposed skin, they should be washed immediately with water. Consumers are advised to store packaging away from open flames and heating devices. If there is a need to extinguish a flame that was lit with this liquid, then you need to use earth or sand for this.

Buyers claim that if the liquid ends up on hot coals or in an open flame, a fire may occur. This composition should not be used in fireplaces, indoor barbecues or ovens. The mixture can be stored at the temperature recommended by the manufacturer, which is limited to 0 to 30 °C.

Replacement for branded lighter fluids in tourism

In tourism, it is better to use alcohol from a first aid kit or gasoline from a car tank as such liquids. In addition, gasoline is sometimes carried in a backpack for burners, which are used when there is no other fuel, for example, in the mountains.

You can simply pour alcohol or gasoline into a fire made of wood, and then throw a match there.

But this option is good for dry firewood. In order to save these substances and light a fire in damp weather, pour a little sand into a tin can, pour flammable liquid over it and set it on fire. In this case, the fire will not be as bright, but its burning time will be much longer, which will allow the damp wood to dry and light it.

This method has disadvantages compared to the previous one. In the case of alcohol, this is its price (branded lighter fluids are much cheaper), and gasoline is bad due to its smell and ability to leak through any leaky container and spill into a backpack. In addition, both of these substances are flammable and, if handled carelessly, can lead to fire and even explosion.

Sunflower oil can be considered a good alternative to lighter fluid in tourism. Many people take it with them on camping trips to cook over a fire. In addition, oil is usually found in various types of canned fish.

Sunflower oil does not burn on its own, but allows the fuel to burn longer and brighter.

The fact that oil does not burn on its own makes it a safe fire starter. In addition, it is cheap and completely safe if it comes into contact with the body, which cannot be said about branded lighter fluids.

Contrary to popular belief, you should not anoint burns with oil and other fats (for example, whale oil or kefir after the same sunburn). This will harm the victim.

How to make your own lighter fluid

An interesting idea that is worth trying to bring to life, if only for the sake of experimentation. What is its basis? Alcohol burns well, but burns out very quickly, that's a fact. And fat burns long and slowly, but it takes a long time to burn. You just need to combine these two properties, and you will get an almost ideal lighter fluid, quick-starting and long-lasting. Just what you need to kindle store-bought coal.

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Fans of home brewing can use so-called “heads” with a high alcohol content. You just need to rub the soap on a grater and pour alcohol into it, and then shake until the solid part of the solution dissolves. The composition burns for an unusually long time, and it only takes a few milliliters to get the fire going well.

PHOTO: ad-cd.net Or even better, soak a couple of wood chips with this composition, and they will become an excellent combustion catalyst. Instead of alcohol, you can use acetone, which is sold in nail polish remover.

The composition of the fire starter fluid mentioned above is not the only thing you need to know when purchasing and using this product. As you know, the number of people who have been injured while preparing barbecue outside the city or in their own home is constantly growing. Vacationers quite often get burned when using the described lighter fluids. Consumers do not consider it necessary to familiarize themselves with the composition of combustible mixtures, so they encounter problems.

Experts advise purchasing those formulations that contain paraffins among the ingredients. If you see on the label that the mixture contains liquid hydrocarbons, then most often the manufacturer means alcohols. Such a substance will quickly burn out, and adding it to the fire is not recommended at all, as this can lead to severe ignition and burns. The moment a person tries to do this, the flame will approach the neck of the bottle, the person will begin to shake it, but will only spill the liquid. Experts say that some additives can also cause harm to health. You can determine the harmfulness yourself by shaking the bottle. If abundant foam appears, then the manufacturer may have added acetone or gasoline. These substances are known to be explosive.

Lighting gels

Essentially these are the same lighter fluids, only in a different consistency.

Gel for starting a fire. Its main advantage over liquid is that it does not leak out of the bottle.

Compared to lighter fluids, gels burn longer and are safer to use, but like fluids, they are rarely used in tourism due to their unidirectional nature.

Composition and characteristics of Forester fluid

This lighter fluid, the composition of which includes a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons, is not capable of changing the taste of the prepared dishes. The products are manufactured by a Russian manufacturer, which means they are low in cost. The product can be used to ignite firewood, coal, fuel briquettes and is safe for health.

The composition of the mixture is non-toxic, it does not change the taste of food and does not form soot. As practice shows, a bottle of liquid is convenient for use, transportation and storage. The design of the lid has certain features that prevent leakage. If the bottle ends up in the hands of curious children, then thanks to a special mechanism it will not be uncorked.

Dry fuel

Dry fuel (also known as dry alcohol) is a compressed mixture of hexamine and paraffin. Usually comes in the form of tablets for starting a fire.

By the way, dry fuel has nothing to do with alcohols as such.

In tourism and military affairs, it is used both independently, heating food on it, and for kindling other fuel, that is, as kindling. In the second case, a burning tablet is placed under the kindling to help the fire flare up.

Dry fuel is compact, easily ignited with one match, burns long enough, but is sensitive to moisture and is not as cheap as we would like. Due to its compactness, it, together with several small metal plates assembled into a mini-oven, is part of some dry rations used by the military and tourists on field trips.

Instead of dry fuel for starting a fire, for example, in wet weather, other options can be used, which will be discussed below.

Odorless ignition

The smell and unsafe nature of lighter fluids has prompted the search for other means to light charcoal. So, about ignition without lighter fluid.

Newspaper

This is an old and proven method.

You will need:

Newspaper;
Matches;
Fan.

How to light a barbecue with a newspaper

You need to roll up the newspaper into a well. Some people recommend wrapping it around a bottle. Yes, this is possible, but we believe that you can roll a newspaper correctly even without a bottle.

We lay a pile of coal around the newspaper well.

We set fire to the newspaper inside the well. A piece of the same newspaper will help.

When some of the coal is occupied, mix with the non-burning material and fan it with a fan to bring the coal to the desired condition.

This is probably the cheapest and most environmentally friendly option. But it requires skill and effort.

Dry alcohol

Dry fuel in tablets is an almost ideal option for igniting anything. Stored in a bag, it has quite a calorific value as a fuel, but dry fuel is somewhat more expensive in cost than coal lighter fluid.

Dry alcohol is pressed methenamine with the addition of a small amount of paraffin.

What are the advantages of dry fuel:

Takes up little space;
Burns normally;
Long shelf life.

There are also disadvantages:

When burned, they release substances that are harmful to humans.

How to light charcoal with dry alcohol.

Place the coals in the bottom of the roasting pan in a pile with an indentation in the middle down to the bottom.

Place a lit tablet of dry alcohol in this hole. If necessary, you can add more.

Place unburnt coal on the fire and move away any that have already started burning.

Work with the fan until all the coal is covered. If there is anything left from the alcohol tablet, you can remove it at this stage.

Allow the coal to burn until ash forms on its surface.

Starter mug

This seems to be the best way to light charcoal for a barbecue. The one who invented it needs to erect a monument.

But, in order.

The charcoal ignition starter really looks like a mug with a blower bottom. Calculate the volume: the starter should fit all the coal needed for the barbecue. As a last resort, for large roasting pans, you need to use 2 mugs.

How to properly light a grill with a starter.

Crush large coal: you need pieces about 5 cm. And pour into a mug.
Place fuel on a non-flammable base (it can be dry fuel, a burner, newspaper, a candle) and light it.
A starter with coals is placed on top.
After 10-15 minutes. The coals are ready (they are burning).
Pour into the grill and smooth out.
Let it burn a little so that the temperature drops.

The mug is heating up. The base where the fuel burns gets hot. When pouring coals into the brazier, a risky situation arises.

Be careful, do everything consciously. This will help avoid burns or fire.

Burner

A universal burner can serve as a good source of fire for ignition.

What are the advantages:

Convenient piezo ignition.
Gas flame will not add extraneous odors.
One of the cleanest methods of ignition.
Coal in the flame zone ignites quickly.
The burner is universal and can be used for something else (for example, for searing meat)

Disadvantages of this method:

The burner usually costs more than other means.
Not the fastest method.

Ignition of coal with a burner.

Pour the coal into the grill. Large ones should be crushed to pieces of 5 cm.
Light it in several places with a torch.
Using a fan, fan the coal, stirring it periodically with a poker.
Having achieved even burning, wait until the coals are covered with ash.

Hairdryer

A hairdryer is a good solution where electrical power is available. Sometimes there are models powered by a battery or batteries, but the power is low and such offers are rare.

This is an electric firelighter: very hot air can ignite not only coal, but also firewood. You can light it without liquid, without smell, but longer.

You can use a hair dryer at 600°. It will differ from the special one in the absence of fastening (clothespins) and pictures of a grill or barbecue.

You can put the hairdryer on the shelf until the next time and don’t worry, as with other products, that they will deteriorate or ruin everything around. Plus no consumables.

The disadvantages of this method are the longer ignition time and the high cost of the hair dryer.

Those who prefer a quick and waste-free method choose electric ignition. This is a mains-powered (sometimes battery-powered or battery-powered) device that emits intense heat when in use and allows wood or coal to quickly ignite and burn.

How to light charcoal with a hairdryer.

Place coal in the roasting pan. If necessary, crush into 5 cm pieces.
We bring a working hair dryer to the coal - the coal is engaged. Not as fast as from a torch . Most models have a clothespin and you can attach the hairdryer to the wall of the grill and not have to wait with your arm outstretched.
If the roasting pan is not small, move the hairdryer so that the coal lights up everywhere. Help with a fan.
Wait for the coal and ash on it to burn evenly.

Plexiglas

Plexiglas is one of the best options for setting fire to even damp brushwood. You can find it along the road among the garbage or prepare it in advance while in a populated area. For example, I made my own tourist line out of it, which performs many different tasks, but, if necessary, turns into an effective kindling.

Plexiglas is not afraid of moisture and is easily ignited with one match, having been previously wiped on clothes. It is light, almost does not emit toxic substances during combustion, and burns for a long time with an even flame.

Plastic

A number of plastics can be used effectively as kindling to start a fire. However, not all plastics are suitable: some types do not burn. For example, I was never able to achieve stable combustion of a PET bottle. But the cap of such a bottle, cut to form a sharp edge for ignition, was ignited with one match and burned, albeit very uncertainly.

It’s not difficult to find a bottle with a lid for starting a fire on a hike: they, along with other garbage, are very often found on the side of roads and even on trees, carried there by a river that overflowed its banks during the spring flood. By the way, among other garbage there are also many plastic products that, with their combustion, can start a fire from damp branches.

Candles are good because they cannot get damp or spoil. If you take one of them on a hike and don’t lose it, it will help you start a fire in any conditions.

The advantages of plastic kindling are their ubiquity, light weight and insensitivity to moisture. However, not all types of plastics burn equally well (some do not burn at all), and those that do burn can release toxic substances when ignited.

Rubber for starting a fire

Rubber has long been used by hikers and various survival experts as kindling for fires. As far as I can tell, the most popular strips are those cut from a bicycle inner tube. Although I personally had occasion to use a strip of rubber cut from the side of my hiking shoes and a condom wound on a thin branch as kindling - both options ignited from one match and burned with a bright flame, however, they burned out quite quickly.

Rubber products, like plastic ones, are often found among garbage brought even to uninhabited islands, so there should not be any problems with finding and making such kindling from improvised means, especially if you take care of this issue in advance.

The pros and cons of a rubber ignition are the same as those of a plastic ignition, but rubber is usually heavier and produces a lot of smoke during combustion, unlike some plastics.

Dry grass

Dry grass is excellent kindling for a fire. Last year's dry grass can be found even in winter (for example, grasses such as feather grass, bromegrass, etc.). In order for it to light up faster, remember it a little

The only drawback, like the previous kindling, is that the grass must be dry. And this kindling burns out very quickly.

Paraffin and wax candles

Among tourists, candles as kindling for a fire are even more popular than rubber and plexiglass, because unlike rubber, they do not smoke as much, and they are easier to purchase than plexiglass.

In addition, candles are often used for their intended purpose - for lighting in order to save batteries in lanterns. For example, I observed this in a camp organized in the catacombs.

If the flame of a candle is not enough to light a fire, you can wrap, for example, toilet paper around the candle, which will act as a large wick. Of course, some of the paper should extend beyond the candle. During ignition, the paper burns out, igniting the wick, which in turn re-ignites it, but now soaked in molten paraffin.

Testing a piece of plastic for its ability to burn.

My candle prepared in this way burned with a trembling bright flame, and was lit with one match.

Candles burn for a long time, are easy to light, are not afraid of moisture and can be used for lighting, which makes them good kindling. However, such kindling is unlikely to be found in the wild.

Cotton wool with impregnation

Unlike previous options, not counting lighter fluid, cotton wool has the unique feature of being ignited by sparks, which can be obtained, for example, from an empty silicon lighter.

Cotton wool is usually found in a first aid kit, but it can be replaced with a natural analogue - cattail fluff.

Cotton wool catches fire easily, but also burns very quickly, so it is not very suitable for kindling on its own. A completely different matter is cotton balls or swabs soaked in Vaseline or paraffin (wax) melted in a water bath. This type of cotton wool ignites quickly, but burns much longer. In addition, cotton wool treated in this way is not afraid of moisture, because its impregnated outer layer reliably protects the dry inner layer.

It is advisable to prepare such cotton wool before the trip, because Vaseline is usually not put in the first aid kit, and if you have paraffin candles, then it is more advisable to use them instead of cotton wool as kindling.

But there is also a camp option that is not widely known - lipstick can help start a fire: just smear cotton wool from the first aid kit with chapstick and then set it on fire.

Despite all the advantages, this method has a significant disadvantage - you need to spend a relatively long time preparing cotton wool in paraffin, and in the case of Vaseline, you will have to store the cotton wool in a special container so as not to stain other equipment in your backpack.

Cotton wool or rag soaked in flammable substances

The kindling is good but there are also disadvantages:

Must be stored in a tightly closed container (jar, etc.), as gasoline and kerosene may evaporate
It stinks of horror. If a can of kindling opens in your backpack, you are guaranteed a persistent smell of gasoline or kerosene from all your things throughout the entire length of your hike.

Pros.

Lights well and burns great

Plasticine as fire starter

Plasticine can be easily ignited even with one match and burns for a long time, so it can also be used as a means for starting a fire.

Plasticine is unlikely to be found in the wild, so you need to take care of purchasing it in advance.

The advantages of plasticine include the ability to form a piece of the desired shape and size, long burning and insensitivity to moisture. Among other things, plasticine can be glued to brushwood in a fire in any suitable place, which is very convenient when lighting it. Disadvantages include the inability to find plasticine far from civilization and the soot released during combustion.

Napalm-V surrogate

This substance is obtained by immersing polystyrene (foam or suitable plastic utensils) in gasoline.

Napalm-B was conceived as a weapon and was used as incendiary and flamethrower mixtures in various military conflicts. However, just as any peaceful invention can cause mass death, something that was originally intended to destroy humanity can help in the struggle for survival. It’s the same story with napalm: it was intended to kill, but it can help start a fire in a difficult situation.

This surrogate may resemble plasticine in its plasticity, but when burned it produces a flame with a higher temperature (over 1200 °C) and is capable of sticking even to a wet porous surface.

Its advantages and disadvantages are the same as those of plasticine, but napalm must be prepared independently, it requires a special sealed container for storage and is more dangerous when used due to its sticky properties and high combustion temperature.

The need to use liquid

The ignition process is simplified, because for this you need to sprinkle the fuel with the mixture, and then let it soak in for a few minutes. The next step is to bring an open flame source and you will be able to get a flame. The use of liquid allows you to start a fire even in the most extreme conditions, which include strong wind and high humidity. Using a specially made liquid, you can light a fire almost anywhere, and under any conditions, including even the use of raw material for a fire. This allows you to use the freed up time to do other, more enjoyable tasks.

The product can be used not only when going outdoors, but also to quickly start a fire at home. If you purchase high-quality lighter fluid, the composition of which will be mentioned below, you can get a fire that burns slowly and without harm to human health. After all, if there is a sudden fire, you can get burned.

When using the product, you must be extremely careful, since a low-quality product can flare up and threaten with unpleasant consequences. In order to determine whether you purchased a quality product, you need to familiarize yourself with the composition. Among other things, you should take into account how well known the manufacturer is on the market for the relevant products. Below you will find several options from which you can choose the one that suits you.

What foods will help start a fire?

In addition to the listed canned food with sprats and sunflower oil, which by themselves are not capable of burning, other food products can be used as kindling.

Thus, nut kernels burn on their own due to their high fat content. You can also use their shells as kindling, which, however, ignites worse and does not burn as confidently. For example, I had the opportunity to experiment with walnuts, which grow in our region - its kernel flares up from the first match and burns for a long time with a quiet flame.

Another good option that came to my mind several years ago and was successfully tried is lard. This is a high-calorie product that is often taken with you on hikes, especially in winter, when it is recommended to consume more fat.

Lard can be set on fire on its own: it will burn when it is slightly charred. That is why I would recommend not setting fire to a thick piece, but cutting off a strip with a pointed end from it.

But it’s better to stick a match into a piece of lard as a wick, which you then set on fire. Also, for these purposes, you can wrap the lard in toilet paper, as you did with a candle, and to prevent the paper from unfolding, pierce it through with the lard with a sharp wood chip.

Lard burns without any additional tricks; it can be cut into pieces of the desired size, and fat dripping into the fire promotes faster combustion. In addition, lard is not afraid of moisture.

It is also often suggested to use chips as kindling, but this option is not suitable for camping, since no one usually takes chips with them, and they are afraid of moisture.

You usually always have kindling from food with you, except in emergency situations, and this is its big advantage. In addition, neither nuts, nor lard, nor butter, nor canned fish and stew are afraid of moisture, which is also important for wild conditions, where you often have to get caught in the rain, walk through fog, and sometimes cross water obstacles. Such kindling usually burns for a long time, but is not always easy to ignite.

Coal stages

In short: charcoal in a barbecue has several stages of combustion, and only one is suitable for barbecue. But people are in a hurry and it turns out worse than it could have happened.

Take your time - a good rule in this case too.

Now let’s learn more about the stages of coal combustion, and how to do it correctly.

Let's get ready first.

We recommend having on hand:

Coal tongs (a poker, and especially a twig, are not so good);
Metal scoop;
Gloves with leather inserts (welder gloves are good);
Fan (of course, you can think of the heat with something else, for example, a disposable plate or an expensive gadget like a “barbecuer’s assistant”, but we choose a “penny” plastic thing in the form of a fan, it is sold in stores everywhere).

And coal. Regular hardwood charcoal, not briquettes.

We will assume that the barbecue is installed and positioned correctly (how to install the barbecue so that there are no problems later, you can read here).

Pour the bag into the grill (if the roasting pan is designed for a smaller amount of coal, you need to pour out some).

Large pieces need to be broken. The normal size is 5 cm. And there can be huge pieces in the bag. It is more convenient to break with your hands, as there is less dust around.

Use an ignition agent (more on them below) so that all the coal ignites.

Now about the combustion stages themselves:

There is a flame. The coal burns brightly, even a reddish-blue flame is visible.
Coal red. It has burned out a little, there is no longer a flame, but the temperature is too high.
Coal gray. The pieces turned to ash and you can hold your hand 10 cm above the grill for a couple of seconds.

It is convenient to keep a bottle of water (“spray bottle”) nearby. If a fire appears from the fat on the coals, it is good for her to extinguish the flame.

Paper

This is the most famous and popular ignition due to its simplicity.

Paper, for example, toilet paper, taken from a pocket, is crumpled into a ball and placed under the fire. When set on fire, it flares up quickly, but just as quickly burns out and dies out. In this regard, it is similar to pure cotton wool, including because it can be ignited by a spark from a flint or an empty silicon lighter.

Therefore, using paper or cardboard, you can light a fire only if you have thin, dry branches that can catch fire even from this short flame.

Despite its popularity, this option has a number of significant drawbacks: as already mentioned, it burns out quickly, and is also extremely sensitive to moisture. But at the same time, paper takes up little space, weighs almost nothing and is usually available on camping trips (toilet paper, notepads, or, in extreme cases, pages from books), and when mixed with chapstick or pine resin it can produce a long-lasting burn.

A natural analogue of a fire starter

Such a remedy, obtained from natural materials, can be a small depression in the ground filled with pine resin, torn together with pieces of dry bark.

The resin protects the underlying bark from moisture, thereby guaranteeing good results even in wet weather.

One of the advantages is that such a mixture is prepared from scrap materials and can burn for a very long time. In my experience, I observed an hour-long burning of pine bark poured into a tin can. However, if you set fire to the resin in a hole in the ground, and not, say, in a tin can, it is unlikely that you will be able to transfer it to another place if necessary.

But it may happen that good ignition products are not at hand. In this case, you need to learn how to light a fire without their help.

To be precise, ignition equipment in tourism is not intended for constant use, but only for difficult situations when, for example, firewood is wet from rain, but you still need to light a fire to dry out or warm up. But even in these situations, you need to know how to light a fire without ignition in the form of auxiliary “chemistry”.

How to make a fire starter with your own hands?

Fire ignition can be liquid, gas, solid, industrially or manually made, of natural and anthropogenic origin. Most often used as ignition:

Dry fuel, or, as it is also called, dry alcohol, is one of the most famous and most convenient means for lighting a fire.

Special liquids for igniting fire, purchased and made by yourself;
Flammable liquids intended for other purposes;
Gels for ignition;
Dry fuel;
Plexiglas;
Plastic;
Rubber;
Paraffin and wax candles;
Cotton wool with impregnation;
Plasticine;
Napalm surrogate;
Some food products;
Paper;
A mixture of pine resin and wood.

Starting a fire without igniter

In order to start a fire even in damp weather in the classic way without using special ignition tools, you need to prepare dry tinder, kindling and fuel.

First, let's understand the basic concepts in order to eliminate confusion in the future.

Tinder is any substance that can start smoldering or burning from a spark of the same flint; it was used to ignite fire in the Middle Ages and continues to be used today. Tinder can be classified as “burnt tinder” or specially prepared tinder fungus. I talked about how to make good tinder that ignites from the slightest spark in a separate article...

Kindling is something that, with its flame, allows the main fuel in the fire to flare up. The options for lighting a fire that I listed earlier can serve as kindling, but here I would like to draw attention to the kindling that can be found in the wild.

Dry straw, grass and leaves are also suitable as kindling. After rain, dry kindling can be found at the entrances to caves, under large stones, and also under spruce trees, which with their thick spruce branches protect the dry twigs on the lower part of the trunk from getting wet.

Nevertheless, after prolonged rains and fogs, even this kindling gets wet. In these cases, the “filler” of a large anthill can act as kindling in the forest. To do this, the upper wet part is removed from a small area of the anthill, the required amount of dry kindling, which is a mixture of small dry twigs, dust and leaves, is removed, after which the removed wet part is returned to its place.

Such manipulation of the anthill will not be fatal for the ant colony even in the harshest winter. Compared to what brown bears do with anthills, human intervention in the lives of these insects is a drop in the ocean. So, if necessary, and even more so if a life-threatening situation arises, you can, without any twinges of conscience, take dry material for a fire from the ants.

Birch bark (birch bark) is also a good material for kindling, which, due to its waterproof properties, remains dry even after prolonged rains and is easily lit with a regular match. It is not for nothing that in the old days, some peoples made canoes from birch bark for rafting on rivers.

However, you should not cut the bark from a living tree: this can harm it. For kindling, the bark that comes off the tree itself is enough. In addition, birch bark can also be removed from fallen birch trunks.

In its structure, birch bark is close to paper and is just as easy to set on fire.

If there are no anthills, no birch trees, no tarred bark nearby, and prolonged bad weather has not left a dry place on the surface of the earth, kindling can be done by cutting dead wood from the middle of thick branches. The fact is that even prolonged rains do not saturate thick branches with their moisture, and the middle remains dry.

You can check the dryness of the wood by touching the cut with your lips: wet wood will be cold, dry wood will be warm.

The thinner the wood kindling for the fire, the better.

Go ahead. Fuel is the basis of a fire, what it consists of. The task of the person lighting the fire is to ensure that the fuel burns. Only in this case are sufficiently large coals formed that support a stable burning of the fire.

Both branches, which can be collected directly from the ground in dry weather, and whole logs of dry trees are used as fuel. In wet weather, you can use the dry middle of a split log as fuel for a fire. If you make cuts on such pieces of wood before long twisted shavings form, they will flare up faster and easier.

After large, stable coals appear in a burning fire, even raw fuel can be thrown into it, which will have time to dry out and ignite. Of course, before throwing such fuel into the fire, it is advisable to dry it in front of this very fire, laying it around the perimeter.

For urban conditions, fuel briquettes made by pressing sawdust are a good option. But they are not suitable for tourism, since no one in their right mind would fill their backpack with them.

Now that all the components are ready, it's time to talk about the fire.

There are many different types of fires suitable for different conditions. Here I’ll tell you how to organize the simplest and therefore very popular fire. It is called “Shalash”, or “Pioneer”.

This fire, after the formation of burning coals in it, can, if desired, be transformed into almost any other.

So, in order to light a fire in the “Pioneer” fire you need to:

Place some kindling on the ground or wood flooring (in case of wet weather or snow cover);
Place thin (no thicker than a match) twigs or wood chips taken from the middle of the log on top of the kindling in the form of a hut;
If there is smoldering tinder, it must be placed in the kindling and fanned until a fire appears, and with the already burning kindling, set fire to the kindling placed in the fire. If there are matches, they light the kindling in the fire. It is most effective to ignite kindling from below: this way it flares up faster and more reliably.
When the kindling and thin branches light up, thicker branches are gradually added to the fire. And so on until branches as thick as a thumb begin to burn in the fire. This is usually enough for cooking, drying things and heating.
At this stage, if the fire stops burning due to lack of fuel (although its supply must be taken care of in advance), it can be fanned again from smoldering coals by preparing the required amount of fuel. In addition, fresh extinct coals are ignited by the slightest spark, struck, for example, by striking a flint on a cleaver.

You can take burnt and extinguished coals with you into your backpack - it can be easier to light them than even thin twigs that have recently been exposed to rain.

It is useful to periodically fan the wood while burning, especially if the wood is half-damp and does not light well. At the initial stage, while the fire is small, you can blow with your mouth, but some people use a special fan to fan the fire. For a tourist, a seat (five-point seat) made of foam acts as a fan, which, among other things, performs the task of thermal insulation of a person from the cold ground.

Summarizing all of the above, I note once again that from the point of view of a tourist, hunter, fisherman or simply a lover of outdoor activities, ignition products are intended primarily to simplify the task in difficult conditions. They require additional costs to purchase, take up additional space in your backpack and add weight to the equipment you carry. In addition, during long hikes or emergency situations, they have the unpleasant property of getting lost or quickly running out at the most inopportune moment.

In this regard, such means should not become the reason for the lack of skills in “classical” fire-making, and in case of an emergency you need to learn to do without them.

Author: Maxim Chechetov

Bushcraft. Homemade effective fire kindling

Sometimes it becomes necessary to light a fire from wet wood without the skill. Usually store-bought ignition products come to the rescue, but these products are unreasonably expensive, so we offer you several recipes for homemade products.

Soap gel

The first and for me the most convenient is a gel made from laundry soap and 96% alcohol. To 1 part of grated soap, add 3-5 parts of alcohol (the exact ratio is different each time, probably depends on the type of soap, but this recipe is based on the example of a household soap). The soap can be melted in a water bath, or you can grate it on a coarse grater. The result should be a thick mixture, more like shampoo, which will smell very strongly of alcohol.

The advantages of this composition:

We coat several wood chips in the future fire and set it on fire - first the alcohol burns out, then the soap, by which time the tree lights up.
It’s a good antiseptic; if you dilute it with water to form a liquid soap, you get something reminiscent of the antiseptic “Soap alcohol” (used when cleaning small wounds from dirt). You can use it without diluting it - pour a drop onto your hands, rub it, and rinse with water.
If a bottle of alcohol is opened slightly in your backpack, the alcohol will flow out little by little, soak all your things and evaporate. If a bottle with this mixture is opened slightly, then most likely nothing will leak out, although in case the cap is completely opened, you can put a bag on the neck of the bottle and cover it with an elastic band.
There is no temptation to dilute alcohol with water and drink; alcohol is used only for its intended purpose.

cotton wool

Cotton makeup remover pads soaked in wax work well as kindling for a fire.

All you need to do is melt a candle in a saucepan, dip cotton pads into the wax, hold them there for 2-3 seconds so that they are well soaked. And place on baking paper to cool. Paraffin candles are also suitable. Only pads soaked in paraffin will burn less brightly and for a long time.

It is better to dip and catch the pads with long tweezers or kitchen tongs. And, of course, you should follow the simplest safety rules and wear at least an apron so as not to get burned by hot wax. Before setting fire to the soaked cotton pad, you need to tear it a little.

Taking one on short hikes is a pleasure: it burns well and weighs little.

There is another way to prepare such kindling: cotton balls and Vaseline. It is necessary to coat the ball well but evenly over the entire area with Vaseline. But the inside of the ball will remain dry, that is, there is no need to tear the ball. This way we get the effect of a candle wick. When you need to get a fire, you tear the ball from the inside, thereby exposing the dry core of the ball, which will serve as excellent kindling.

Homemade brush must be tightly pushed into a sealed container, such as a film box, aspirin, or other medicine. By the way, it is worth noting that a well-soaked ball, even if it gets wet, will still not absorb moisture due to the Vaseline shell. The shelf life of such homemade brushwood is practically unlimited, and the manufacturing process itself is simple and inexpensive.

Natural types of kindling

Below we present several natural types of fire kindling:

Coarse dry grass from last year. Universally available, extremely efficient kindling. The weeds are broken (or crushed) into small pieces 15-20 cm long, placed loosely in the center of the fire pit, and a hut made of thin dry branches is built on top. The fire is ready with one match! True, there is one “but”. The efficiency of this type of kindling is reduced to almost zero in wet weather and during the winter thaw. And even in cold weather, weeds covered with a thin layer of frost will not light up immediately. So the use of this type of kindling is limited to hot summer days.
Small dry spruce or fir twigs. The characteristics and efficiency are close to the previous type of kindling; accessibility is determined by the presence of spruce or fir within reach. Compared to weeds, wet “cobwebs” ignite much better; Its flammability is better even in winter. A “cobweb” is used in a similar way to weeds.
Birch bark. Birch bark is a real find for those who have set themselves the goal of making a fire. Burns perfectly in any form: damp, rotten, taken from a living tree. The availability of this type of kindling is determined by the presence of mature birch trees, which, thank God, are one of the most common trees in our conditions. You can extract birch bark either with your bare hands or using improvised means, but the best results are obtained by removing large layers with a knife. Two deep circular cuts are made on the tree trunk, the distance between which is determined by your desire. The annular cuts are connected perpendicularly, directed along the trunk. All that remains is to pick up the formed edge and rip off the birch bark in a layer. Next, the birch bark is placed in a compact pile in the center of the fire pit, and a hut of thin dry branches is built on top. The fire is ready.
Bark of a dead spruce. An exceptionally effective kindling at any time of the year and in any weather conditions, it ignites perfectly when wet. Large pieces of bark make excellent fire pits in wet conditions or in winter. Accessibility is determined by the presence of spruce and fir trees - trees are very common in the middle zone. The bark easily peels off in pieces of various sizes; you just need to pick it up with any available means. This is best done with a small hatchet. It should also be taken into account that the most tarred bark is located at the butt of the tree. The collected kindling is used, similarly to the previous ones, as the basis for a “hut”. In this case, the pieces of bark are arranged in a “pyramid”, and the branches of the hut must be thick enough, otherwise they will instantly burn out.
Resin deposits from coniferous trees. Everyone knows the specific feature of coniferous trees to heal damage with resin. Initially liquid and viscous, over time the resin hardens into a solid, opaque mass - this is exactly the “old” resin that is used as kindling. This type of kindling ignites when wet and is considered the best for use in winter, even in severe frosts. Its availability is determined by the presence of any coniferous tree - again, central Russia does not experience a shortage of them. The resin hardens in two forms: either in the form of nodules the size of a walnut to a fist, or in the form of nodules that deeply permeate the bark and wood around large cracks. We will need both. True, to extract the resin you will need a hatchet or a strong knife - both the nodules and the deposits are removed with a piece of the underlying bark and wood. Further use of kindling is similar to the previous ones - as the basis for a “hut”. The branches of the hut should be thick enough to avoid rapid burning.
Dry heartwood of spruce, fir, and pine. Perhaps the most labor-intensive type of kindling to obtain and manufacture, the efficiency of which is significantly lower than resin, spruce bark and birch bark. However, this method can be useful during heavy precipitation, especially rain, when there is no time to look for another type of kindling, but you want to quickly dry yourself by the hot fire. So, the availability of this method is determined by the presence of a nearby dead (that is, standing, not lying on the ground, dead) coniferous tree of sufficient thickness (about the size of an adult man’s thigh, no less), with a whole top. A tree that is too thin can be saturated with water to the very core, and in trees without a top, the core, as a rule, is already rotten and rotten. Trees standing in places with excessive moisture (lowlands, swamps), as well as larch, are not suitable for this purpose. These options will either be damp through or rotten. Having found a suitable tree, we cut it down, easier and faster - using a saw. Using a saw, we cut it into chocks and see that the core of these chocks is completely dry. We chop the selected block (or two) into 4 parts and use a sharp knife to cut out a sufficient amount of shavings and splinters from the core. Next, we build a familiar “hut” from the resulting material, the basis of which will be a neat pile of shavings, and the walls will be splinters. At first, the fire requires attention, protection from rain and regular addition of fuel (as it burns, the size of the firewood increases), but, once mature, it burns hot and is not afraid of precipitation.