Self-production of construction trestles: instructions + photos and videos

When carrying out any work related to repairs or maintenance of the house, it is required to rise to a certain height. If you can screw in a light bulb with a chair, and cover a small crack with a stepladder, then extensive work requires greater mobility.

To move at height, construction trestles, otherwise called scaffolds, are created. Ready-made structures are available in construction stores, but prices run into thousands of rubles. It’s easier to make them yourself, and it costs several times less.

Do-it-yourself production budget

For trestles with a height of 0.8 m, the following dimensions are valid:

legs (4 pcs.) – 0.95 m
top crossbar – 0.9 m
spacers (3 pcs.) – 0.85 m, 0.77 m and 0.7 m

Therefore, to manufacture two sets of devices you will need lumber and fasteners in the following quantities:

board 95 x 45 mm – 5 pieces 2 m each
board 90 x 20 mm – 1 piece 2 m
board 90 x20 – 1 piece 3 m
furniture bolt M10 x 100 with nut – 4 pieces
M10 washers – 12 pieces
self-tapping screws 4 x 45 – 50 pieces (for wood)
belt – 2 pieces

Attention: The main problem when buying boards is choosing dry wood with stable geometry. The trestles do not have a rigid frame, so “propellers”, boards with a difference in thickness, or chips are not suitable

An approximate estimate for the production of universal folding trestles is as follows:

belt – 140 rub. (2 pieces per pack)
bolts included – 75 RUR.
self-tapping screws – 30 rub.
board – 1000 rub.

You can meet the amount of 1.25 thousand rubles, that is, at least four times cheaper than when buying ready-made trestles.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in the shed.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners of wooden houses still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult. The principle of connecting pin scaffolds Clamps. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together using specially designed clamps. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters). Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling Frame scaffolding. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes of smaller diameter welded to the frame posts on one side

With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash. Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening the crossbars and wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection

On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes. Wedge scaffolding racks and crossbars are connected using wedges and specially shaped locks

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if heavy materials are not intended to be used. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. The cross beams will prevent the structure from folding to one side, but there is a possibility that the scaffolding will fall forward without securing it. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely dismantled if there is a need to move the structure to another wall. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Work area

Actually, that’s why we assemble construction trestles with our own hands - a platform. Depending on the nature of the work performed, the size of the site is also selected individually. The weight that it must withstand must be no less than the weight of a person plus the load from tools and materials. In a word, 150-170 kg will be quite enough for any construction and repair work. The overall dimensions of the platform should be such that it fits into the doorways, which is no more than 70 cm, and its length should not exceed one and a half meters, otherwise it will be inconvenient to maneuver.

Consequently, to make two sawhorses, a platform and, possibly, a wall stepladder, you will need no more than 12-15 meters of edged board, and this is quite a bit to guarantee a convenient eight-legged assistant for any repair and construction.

The process of assembling scaffolds

To install lightweight wooden scaffolding with your own hands, you will need the same set of tools. We will use beams 5x15 cm and boards 3-4 cm thick as materials. We fasten all elements with nails. If necessary, the scaffolding reaches the third floor, but it will not be possible to create a second tier. They do not need a flat, dry area, since the main part of the structure is in a “suspended state.”
We knock together supports from two elements 1 m long. To do this, we place them at right angles, fix them and mount them on the wall. The vertical one is directed downward, the horizontal one is directed to the side. Together they form the base for the decking. They are placed in increments of 1-2 m. Jib beams are inserted into the corner - diagonal beams, the bottom side resting on the ground. The bottom is fixed by driving a stake into the ground, the top is nailed down or tied with wire.
The space between the sides of the corner is boarded up with shields on both sides. They serve as stiffening ribs and additional fastening for the diagonal holder. A shield is placed on top.

One section can support a person's weight. To prevent the racks from moving to the side, install side holders or nail the diagonals together with additional jumpers. One way is to hang the base with long anchors that can support heavy loads. It is possible that the holes from them will have to be sealed with cement mortar.

Nothing extra: mobile trash can

Forgive me for such a natural comparison, but do you know why the horses that drove chaises around the city had a bag tied under their tails? Yes, precisely for this reason, to keep the pavement clean. So my working goat got such a device.

I cut the rim off the paint bucket and cut off the lid. You can attach a garbage bag between the rim and the lid. And the rim itself was fixed with a movable holder

I hope you liked my construction beast. I will be glad if my experience helps someone with repairs

Thank you, Olga! A charming master class from a real craftswoman! It's nice to look at your work. We don't even have anything to add. The only thing you can do is to suggest complicating the task, as in this short video on creating a multifunctional carpentry table:

Watch this video on YouTube

We are waiting for your impressions and comments, as well as new materials in the section “This is not a woman’s business!”

PHOTO: Olga Yarovaya

Start of work: preparation of material

It is more convenient to cut the plywood on a circular saw. If you don’t have one at hand, you can use a hand saw, but in this case the work will be very labor-intensive and time-consuming. A regular electric jigsaw with a suitable blade can also help here.

PHOTO: YouTube.com Plywood scraps are unraveled to the specified size

Dissolving scraps to the desired width

After the plywood scraps are cut to the required length, you need to cut them to width. After all, too wide elements are completely useless here. It's just extra weight. As for strength, when the trestles are assembled, they will be able to withstand more than 100 kg each.

Particular attention should be paid to safety precautions when working with a circular saw. Do not bring your hands too close to the rotating disk

If you need to push the part, it is best to use any piece of board or stick.

PHOTO: YouTube.com When the parts are adjusted to the desired width, you can begin assembly

Complete assembly of goats: what material is required

In order for the trestles to be foldable, each of them will require two door canopies, which will connect the elements. To complete this work, you need to lay the squares one next to the other on any flat surface. They should be located in one line at the ends. If there is no suitable workbench, then all the work can be done on the floor.

At first glance, it may seem that the structure made from scraps of plywood looks flimsy, but this impression is deceptive. After complete assembly, the strength will be at a very high level.

PHOTO: YouTube.comThe elements are located as needed, it’s time to connect them together

Door awning fastening

The canopies are attached to the same self-tapping screws with a slight indentation from the edge of the elements, but without going beyond the joint of the plywood scraps. It is better to purchase canopies with three or even four holes for fixing screws. This will give the structure additional strength.

It is best to use hardened black self-tapping screws (they are also called German, or Germanic). The main thing is to choose the right length so that they can sink into the wood to a depth sufficient for fixation (through both layers), but at the same time do not stick out too much from the back side. Otherwise there is a risk of injury.

PHOTO: YouTube.com Trying on door canopies before final fixation

The final touch in the manufacture of construction sawhorses

Despite the fact that after fastening the canopies, the sawhorses seem ready, they lack stability. If you press from above, the legs will simply move apart in different directions. This means a little modification is needed.

To prevent falls from the scaffolding, it is necessary to install a limiter that will hold the legs in the desired position. A wide and durable canvas belt is ideal for this. Having measured the required length (the same for both trestles), it needs to be fixed on the lower jumpers of the elements. However, simply screwed in screws will not work here. The connection needs to be strengthened. This can be done using a metal profile through which the screws will be screwed.

PHOTO: YouTube.com The canvas belt will perfectly hold the sawhorses in the desired position

About choosing fasteners

As for fasteners, they are usually faced with a dilemma - nails or self-tapping screws. For the construction of wooden scaffolding, the best option would still be to use ordinary (smooth-bodied) nails. They are made of “mild” low-carbon steel, due to which they better withstand static and variable loads, which especially often occur on scaffolding. To put it simply, they may bend, but not break.

Self-tapping screws are more convenient. At least from a practicality point of view. They significantly speed up the assembly of the structure, they make it easier to accurately position the fixed parts, while they provide the same quick and easy dismantling of the structure (with minimal damage to the lumber). But given the fact that self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, and their working fluid has a relatively small diameter, such fasteners are less resistant to shock or variable loads and often break.

To a greater extent, this problem is characteristic of oxidized screws (black) and to a lesser extent – anodized (yellow and white).

When making homemade scaffolding, as a compromise, you can use both types of fasteners: loaded nodes can be fastened with nails, and less critical ones with self-tapping screws. The length of the nails for loaded scaffolding elements is selected in such a way that when hammered, their ends protrude by 2-3 cm. After this, they are bent across the fibers and sunk into the wood.

Storage and use of sawhorses

Using our recommendations on how to make a sawhorse, you will create a stable structure, and cutting firewood on it will be a pleasure. You can also view ready-made sketches, photo and video materials on the Internet.

Equally important is the correct use of sawhorses. You should not load too massive and heavy logs on it.

The folding design of the sawhorses is suitable for cutting firewood using a hand saw or chainsaw. This device is simply indispensable in the homestead for collecting firewood and stove logs to light the stove, barbecue or fireplace in the house.

3 Metal sawhorses for cutting wood

Metal products are compact in size, have a long service life, and are highly reliable. Small specimens intended for processing small volumes of wood, and larger machines for large-scale production are made from this material. The cost of a homemade model using scrap metal waste is low. To make them at home, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

profile corner 50x50 mm, pipe of similar characteristics;
grinder, hacksaw;
measuring tape;
chalk;
connecting bolts, welding machine.

A sketch is drawn up listing the main elements and the mandatory marking of each of them. The design of the upcoming product may be different, but in order to give greater durability, two additional profile elements at an angle or a transverse beam of the base are additionally installed. For example, from a piece of pipe. In the second case, it is necessary to protect the saw teeth from contact with the beam, so at the final stage of assembly, a piece of timber is secured on top.

The fastening points are marked by welding or bolts. If a bolted connection is provided, then additionally indicate the location of the holes. A system assembled by welding is one-piece; a dismountable system is more mobile.

All parts are cut according to the intended dimensions using welding or a grinder. To prevent sliding and turning of the logs while sawing, a jagged edge is prepared on the inner side of the outer legs. For the safety of further work, the cut sites are processed, removing scale, burrs, and other defects from each edge. The product is being assembled. To protect against rust, non-demountable structures are treated with an anti-corrosion compound.

You can build a mobile version of folding trestles from metal. The simpler the design, the less often the device breaks down, so this type of machine is manufactured as simply as possible. When folded, it takes up little space, is convenient to store and transport, but more manufacturing and assembly costs are required.

The main difference is the mobility of the X-shaped support; it can be folded like scissors. The bolts are not fully tightened, to prevent them from unscrewing spontaneously, an additional lock nut is installed. Installing a limiter helps fix the supports in the desired position. This can be a metal chain attached to one leg of the support, and a hook is made on the other to hook it.

Mobile trestles made of wood

The design of conventional trestles has rather large dimensions and weight, which is a serious obstacle when transporting the machine. But you can also make a mobile installation with your own hands, which will be foldable and can be easily carried. But, as a rule, such plans require more costs and time to assemble.

For folding trestles you will need the following material:

durable, but small in diameter wooden beams. You will need at least 4 units of them;
for the base of this structure it is best to use a metal pipe with a length of 1 to 3 meters;
since the design is folding, you will need a limiter (you can use a strong rope, a small chain, a good belt or cable);
To connect the components you will need a wood drill. It is worth choosing the most durable option.

To avoid unnecessary costs and reduce the likelihood of device breakdown, this machine is manufactured as simply as possible. You need to start the assembly with the beams. You can make them yourself from a 50 mm board. After receiving the finished material, it is necessary to mark the location of the cut where the legs for the trestle will subsequently be installed.

After drilling a hole on each strip for the pipe, the base is inserted into them, and the legs are set in their places. Next you need to make a limiter for the racks, which will not allow the legs to move apart.

Mobile wooden sawhorses for sawing firewood

Here you should be careful, choose the same length for both sides, which will allow the sawhorses to open 350 to 450 degrees. Thus, a structure will be assembled that will be easy to fold and store in small spaces.

Manufacturing process

Initially, you should put together the correct frame with your own hands. In most cases, it is more rational to use attached scaffolding, which will require less lumber. In order to correctly make home-made structures, which you can then simply attach to the wall, you should adhere to installation technology that will help you assemble wooden scaffolding yourself.

In order to build a reliable structure where you can work safely on the extension for finishing work, you must adhere to a certain scheme.

Frame

Before starting work on assembling the frame, the site should be leveled and, if necessary, drained so that the finished structure does not wobble during work. On a flat area it is easier to install vertical frame posts, under which you do not have to place bricks and cuttings of boards.

The first to install are 4 vertical posts, for which timber measuring 10x10 cm or thick boards 4-5 cm wide are used. The drains are cut to height and fastened together using horizontal bars or short boards. First you need to assemble the sides of the frame on the ground, after which they are lifted and fastened with parallel elements. Racks for the frame, for better stability, are better made in a trapezoidal shape. For example, the lower strut of one sidewall can be made 1.2 meters long, and the upper one 1 m long.

When assembling the sides of the frame on the ground, it is better to work together. If the frame assembly is carried out by one person, then first you need to strengthen the internal spacer on the wall.
There should be several paired racks. They are a support for the flooring, which diverges in different directions. The stand can be single. In this case, its length should not be more than 4 meters.
To make the structure stable, you need to make diagonal struts on each side of it, which will act as stiffeners and prevent the scaffold from swinging.

Flooring

When the scaffolding frame has been assembled, you can begin installing the panel flooring, which is made from boards 4-5 cm thick. When laying the flooring, you should remember that there should not be large gaps between the boards. The length of one span of flooring should not exceed 3-4 meters if the thickness of the boards is 4-5 cm. For thinner boards the length should be no more than 2 meters.

Hatches and ladders

To climb to the upper tiers, you will need to make a ladder with steps measuring 5x5 cm. The interval between the steps is selected individually for the person who will work on such a ladder.

If the scaffolding is two-tiered, then you need to make a hatch to climb to the second floor. It is usually done from the side. A hatch in the center will interfere with work. A ladder is nailed to the hatch, which will be used to climb to the second floor of the scaffolding.

Attached scaffolds

This element helps to lift containers with working compounds to the upper tier and for the finishers themselves to climb. It is also assembled from boards independently. The scaffolding rests against the ground at one end and against the wall at the other. Most often, frame or attached structures are used, which are considered the most reliable. They are based not on a frame, but on a frame, which increases their strength and ensures safe movement on the stage.

For their manufacture, a beam measuring 5x15 cm and a board 3-4 cm thick are used. All wooden parts are fastened with nails.

A support is made from two boards 1 m long. One element is mounted vertically and looks down, the second to the side. The parts are connected at right angles. The flooring is laid on this base in increments of 1-2 cm. Then, to strengthen the structure, jibs made of diagonal beams are attached to the formed corner. Their underside should rest against the ground. To fix the lower part of the scaffold, a stake is driven into the lower part. Its upper part is nailed to the base.

In the space created by the sides of the corner, panels are placed on each side, which will ensure the rigidity of the structure. Flooring is placed on top.

The construction of wooden scaffolding takes little time if you follow the proposed scheme. The better and more reliable the structures, the faster the finishing work will be carried out. The safety of those who have to work at height directly depends on scaffolding. When carrying out construction or repair work in low-rise buildings, you cannot do without such structures. Therefore, you need to know how to quickly and correctly assemble such a structure from boards on your own.

Leg assembly and fitting

The performance of the device depends on the quality of the marking of the hole for the bolt. Therefore, preliminary fitting using technology is necessary:

the leg is placed on the table so that the cutout hangs over the tabletop (you can use a stool, chair)
the support bar (upper) is installed vertically in the groove
a second leg is added on top of the first (the bar should fit snugly into the cutouts in both parts)
the structure is temporarily tightened with a clamp

Then the following operations are performed:

Using a vertical square, the intersection of the legs is transferred to the side surface on both sides of the structure
the resulting points are connected by a line, which becomes the vertical axis of rotation
the longitudinal axis of the leg is marked with a square
at the intersection of these lines there will be a center for the hole of the M10 bolt, which is the hinge of the connection

Attention: The holes must be perpendicular to the plane of the boards, so a jig is required. They can serve as a cut in a block pressed to the leg with a self-tapping screw or clamp

If the hole is inclined, the legs will not be able to transform into the working position.

The legs are assembled in stages:

the bolt goes through one piece
two washers are put on it to facilitate the rotation of the wooden elements relative to each other
the second leg is put on the threaded part
the hinge joint is secured with a nut

The result is a set of two legs, into the cuts of which a support bar is easily inserted from above.

Assemble the frames

1. To make half-wood joints, install a 19 mm thick groove disk into the saw machine and make test joints on scraps with a cross-section of 19 × 114 mm, setting the sawing depth equal to half the thickness of the workpiece. Cut cutouts in legs A and crossbars B for half-tree joints (Fig. 1 and 2).

2. Glue the A/B leg frames together and secure them with clamps. When installing clamps at half-wood joints, in order to evenly distribute the pressure over the entire gluing area, place wooden scraps under the jaws of the clamps. Check the squareness of the assembled frames.

3. Create a 15° bevel on the top edge of each A/B frame (Photo A).

Set up a circular saw to cut the bevels at 15°, attach a flat board to the A/B leg frame, and cut a bevel on the top edge of the frame.

Self-tapping screws and nails

Doubts about the choice of fasteners are quite understandable. Nails are easy to drive and provide strength to scaffolding because they have some flexibility to absorb the load. The inconvenience is that the building structure is almost impossible to disassemble without damaging the wood.

Self-tapping screws are convenient in this regard; they can be unscrewed without damaging wooden surfaces, but they are characterized by great fragility. Black self-tapping screws made of hardened steel alloys can break when hit or simply under weight.

Note! Anodized self-tapping fasteners are somewhat stronger; they can be distinguished from ordinary ones by the greenish tint of the coating.

If the owner often works on the site with his own hands and the wood is needed in its most complete form, you can use anodized screws, and to be sure, hammer in only two or three nails at the junctions of the scaffolding, just in case, for insurance.

Assembly diagram

Place two more boards in the shape of a rectangle on the inverted structure and connect them. It turns out to be flooring or an area for work.
Take four more wooden panels with dimensions 1100x100x30 and attach them at the ends. The result is a structure somewhat reminiscent of a table.
The next step is to strengthen the structure with boards 1700x100x30mm and 1500x50x30mm. They must be attached so that the opposite reinforcements are in different diagonals.
And the last point is attaching the ladder. For more convenient operation, the steps at the bottom can be made with a small protrusion. You select the length of the stairs based on individual preferences.
That's it, your goats are ready. But for safe construction and repair work they need to be checked. To do this, we place any objects with a large weight on the surface; if the trestles can withstand it, then you can not be afraid and safely use them in installation.

Construction of scaffolding for construction

The average person who wants to figure out how to assemble scaffolding will find many options and methods. Despite this, the equipment for almost any type of scaffolding will be standard, and it will include:

Vertically located racks that can withstand heavy loads and transfer them to the ground surface.
Diagonal ties, with the purpose of strengthening the skeleton of the structure and enhancing its rigidity indicators.
Horizontal jumpers, the purpose of which is to lay flooring boards on them.
Directly the flooring, consisting of boards capable of holding a large load.

All of the above is usually supplemented by the following elements:

fencing (railings) protecting workers from the risk of falling;
persistent slopes that prevent the possibility of scaffolding overturning;
ladders for transition between tiers.

Drawing of construction trestles. DIY installation

Construction trestle structure

Before you start making construction trestles with your own hands, we select materials for production. There are three main materials from which goats are made:

metal;
tree;
wood-metal combination.

Since metal ones are difficult to create and quite expensive in terms of materials, let’s consider wooden trestles.

After choosing a material, it is worth understanding the conditions of their use. If these are stationary or rarely moved scaffolds, then it is worth creating a disposable scaffold. If you plan to move the trestles frequently, we choose folding trestles.

Before starting carpentry work, we create a drawing and calculate the required height. The standard height for comfortable work for an adult man is 80–90 cm.

For a finished product with a height of 85 cm, legs 95 cm long are needed.

The length must be chosen such that when a construction site board is placed on top, the beam protrudes at least 5–7 cm on each side, but it is better to take it with a margin.

The design is extremely simple, when open it resembles the letter “A”, and can be used both at a low height and with the help of two trestles at full height.

Preparation

After creating the drawing, you need to decide how long the platform will be, and how many trestles will have to be made for it. Goats are always created from two or more - if the board being applied is long and can break in the middle.

Collapsible wooden construction trestles

The advantage of collapsible trestles over a conventional platform is their reusability and the ability to quickly remove them from storage and use. In conventional scaffold construction, only boards fastened with nails are used.

After completion of work, it is difficult to leave them for storage unassembled. To ensure that such scaffolds do not take up much space, they have to be dismantled, which is difficult if they are made with high quality.

Collapsible trestles do not take up much space; they can be transported and used for various needs other than their intended purpose. To create a sawhorse, you need two supports.

To make one support you will need:

four boards for legs - 0.95 m;
board 0.9 m for the top;
three crossbars of 0.85, 0.77, 0.7 m each.

Carpentry work

The goats are assembled in accordance with the recommended instructions.

Make markings on the legs, cut off excess wood on both sides at an angle of 800. The cuts should be parallel.
Use the finished leg as an example and make the rest.
Check that the ends of the top board, which will support the platform, are at an angle of 900.
On the boards of future spacers, measure an angle of 800 at one end and 1000 at the other. Cut.
The blanks are ready, now the space for the top board is cut. To do this, fold the two finished legs into the position that they will take when open, draw an angle of 900, and cut. All the others cut through this leg.
The legs are connected like scissors, a rotation axis is drilled into them, in which the bolts are not fully tightened, allowing the legs to open and close.
All that remains is to make spacers between the finished legs, two on the wide side and one on the narrow side. Then fasten the tension belt to the lower spacers.
One support of the future construction site is ready, the second one is being assembled according to the same scheme.

Collapsible trestles are an easy and inexpensive way to create a construction site that is durable, mobile, and able to support the weight of an adult man, as well as building materials.

Images from www.forumhouse.ru were used for this material.

Calculations and materials

You can buy sawhorses, both folding and regular, in almost any specialized store. But they most often have an aluminum base and are quite expensive. It is much easier and cheaper to make trestles for your dacha with your own hands. This is a relatively simple design that requires a minimum of carpentry skills from the manufacturer. In addition, homemade goats will not cost you a pretty penny, they can be easily adapted to the construction project you need, and they can also be easily used in the future if desired.

Goats from the store

You can assemble both metal and wooden trestles yourself. But we still recommend choosing the wooden version. Wood is much easier to work with and cheaper.

One of the first stages of work is the design and creation of a drawing. We strongly recommend that you do not carry out all the work “by eye” - it is very easy to make a mistake due to which your structure will turn out to be crooked and unstable. Well, or it won't work at all. Therefore, sketch out a detailed drawing on a piece of paper indicating all dimensions, immediately write down how much fasteners you need and how much base material you need. The drawing will also clearly allow you to see what the finished structure will look like.

A simple drawing of a folding trestle

At the first stage, it is important to determine the height of the future goats. Usually it is chosen depending on the person’s height

Traditionally, the height varies between 75-95 cm.

Your favorite desktop or workbench will also help you determine the height. If you have one and you often work with it and feel comfortable, then you can measure its height and make a sawhorse with exactly the same parameters.

Universal sawhorses

The support legs of a goat must be assembled at a certain angle relative to each other. This will increase the stability of the structure. Let's take the standard version with angles of 65 and 80 degrees. Based on the height and angles of the legs, it is already possible to calculate the parameters of the remaining parts. Thus, it turns out that for one goat you will need:

legs 95 cm long - 4 pcs;
upper support crossbar 90 cm - 1 piece;
spacers - 2 on each side.

In addition, do not forget to buy fasteners. These are bolts, nuts, washers and screws. These elements will allow you to assemble a reliable structure. We do not recommend using nails - connections with them are less reliable and durable than with self-tapping screws. Nuts and bolts will be needed to connect the folding legs.

You can buy wood for the goats at your nearest hardware store, but you can also look at all sorts of scraps at your dacha. You most likely have them if you have done any construction work before. The board is suitable size 100x30 mm.

Do not use wood with obvious defects to create a goat.

Other goat options

The most widely used for sawing single thick logs with chain saws are various sawhorse designs with fixation of the rear part of the log.

These are the ones that are produced most industrially, besides the cruciform ones.

Their designs are so simple that they do not need detailed descriptions; everything can be seen in the photo. Such sawhorses for sawing firewood can be made by any home craftsman who is more or less able to hold a tool in his hands. The main thing here is the ability to balance the dimensions of the support platform with the size and weight of the logs being cut. It may not have a rectangular shape, or even be completely replaced by stops. I liked this goat design for its simplicity and minimalism.

Or this option, designed for very thick, but not long logs:

And finally, we will present a wooden structure that is very successful for home production, which is also guaranteed to ensure that the saw does not jam due to the small width between the saw stops at the cutting site.

In such sawhorses, the log is laid with equal overhang on the sides for stability, and is sawn in the middle. Next, do the same with the resulting pieces.

In all cases, when making a trestle yourself, you choose the height individually, so that, first of all, it is convenient for you.

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Do-it-yourself sawhorses for cutting wood? Easily! Good owners make sure in advance that they have enough firewood in stock for the winter. To prepare them, you must have an indispensable tool for all owners of private houses - a sawhorse for sawing firewood.

This is a fairly simple design that everyone should have in their dacha to make it convenient to process, prepare firewood and saw metal strips or wooden boards with millimeter precision.

Making goats with your own hands is quite simple, and even someone who does not have any special skills can handle it.

Kinds

To make a classic version of such cutting equipment, you will need any of the following materials:

Despite the fact that the design itself is simple, sawing sawhorses can be classified as machines. For this reason, during production, certain conventions must be observed, one of which is the presence of a drawing or plan according to which the assembly will be carried out. When planning, it is worth signing all the dimensions; this also applies to even the smallest details.

Criterias of choice

The main thing to pay attention to when assembling is the dimensions. This will be affected by:. All the time spent on work will depend on what sizes are chosen.

The best option is to make the machine with a height of 0.9 to 1.1 m. Thus, the person who will work will not bend his back too much, and his arms will be positioned horizontally. It will be easy to work and the load on your back will be reduced

All the time spent on work will depend on what sizes are chosen. The best option is to make the machine with a height of 0.9 to 1.1 m. Thus, the person who will work will not bend his back too much, and his arms will be positioned horizontally. It will be easy to work and the strain on your back will be reduced.

Features of using tools when working on sawhorses

If you plan to process wood with a regular two-handed saw, then you will definitely need a reliable support for the second one. For this reason, when planning, take care of the presence of such elements. An affordable option is to create a support from timber, which will give you the advantage of installing a support anywhere. When using a power tool like a chainsaw, make sure there is a sturdy surface on the sawhorse.

Goats for sawing firewood with a chainsaw have their own characteristics, since there are differences in operating rules that affect the safety of the worker. In this case, you will need to take care in advance of a place for free hanging of the material that will be sawn. This way you can avoid the tool getting caught in the sawn blade.

Options for assembling homemade structures

Towers on four supports - to increase the surface, they are connected together. The base is a frame made of boards or beams. This method allows you to create multi-tiered structures and ordinary two-meter pedestals. It is often used when you need to reach the roof or the third floor.

A wall is sometimes used as supports located on the inside of the frame. Nails do not leave noticeable marks on unpainted or unfinished surfaces. Any cladding after such an intervention will have to be changed or repaired.

A-frame trestles consist of two homemade stepladders, on which flooring is laid on top. Suitable only for low-rise buildings and are mainly used for finishing. The design is simple and unreliable. It is advisable to nail down the horizontal platform with nails - otherwise it will have to be constantly adjusted. It is quite narrow and designed for only one person. There are no railings or steps. They climb up using a stepladder or ladder.

To assemble such wooden scaffolding with your own hands, drawings are not needed, but quality control of lumber is still necessary.

Extension scaffolds - they are also called Armenian. Instead of a four-legged frame, diagonal holders are used here. The bottom rests on the ground, the top rests on a corner fixed to the wall of the building. Boards perpendicular to them are nailed to the holders. One side of them is attached to the wall, the other serves as a base for the work surface.

Shelves that differ from Armenian rafters in the method of fastening. They do not have a central diagonal holder.

The load is carried by a system of perpendicular beams. The vertical row is nailed from below to the wall, the horizontal row is located on top at a right angle to it. The horizontal board, together with the flooring, is held in place by boards that form an acute angle with it. The shelves are designed for light loads. After them, noticeable marks from wide nails, anchors or self-tapping screws will remain on the surface. Without a diagonal holder, the thickness and number of fasteners will have to be increased.

Leg assembly and fitting

The performance of the device depends on the quality of the marking of the hole for the bolt. Therefore, preliminary fitting using technology is necessary:

the leg is placed on the table so that the cutout hangs over the tabletop (you can use a stool, chair)
the support bar (upper) is installed vertically in the groove
a second leg is added on top of the first (the bar should fit snugly into the cutouts in both parts)
the structure is temporarily tightened with a clamp

Then the following operations are performed:

Using a vertical square, the intersection of the legs is transferred to the side surface on both sides of the structure
the resulting points are connected by a line, which becomes the vertical axis of rotation
the longitudinal axis of the leg is marked with a square
at the intersection of these lines there will be a center for the hole of the M10 bolt, which is the hinge of the connection

Attention: The holes must be perpendicular to the plane of the boards, so a jig is required. They can serve as a cut in a block pressed to the leg with a self-tapping screw or clamp

If the hole is inclined, the legs will not be able to transform into the working position.

The legs are assembled in stages:

the bolt goes through one piece
two washers are put on it to facilitate the rotation of the wooden elements relative to each other
the second leg is put on the threaded part
the hinge joint is secured with a nut

The result is a set of two legs, into the cuts of which a support bar is easily inserted from above.

Features of manufacturing wooden scaffolding

If you decide to make trestles from wood, then the step between the racks can be equal to the limit of 2 to 2.5 meters. As for the width of the flooring, it should be equivalent to one meter. You should not make the structure too high; the maximum height limit is 6 meters. To carry out the work, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 millimeters thick. As for their width, this figure should not appear less than 100 millimeters. You can replace such blanks with a square beam of 10 cm. The racks and stops can be based on round timber. Spacers and barriers are typically made from boards that are 30 millimeters or more thick.

Design features

Different types of work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, high load-bearing capacity is not required. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. To finish the gables or just the exterior of a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and lay flooring on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For laying brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick, full-fledged scaffolding will be required. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Choosing a place to build

When choosing a place to build a goat house, give preference to a small hill or plain. In the lowlands, the barn will be damp, which means the animals will constantly get sick and waste away.

Before construction, the area for construction must be cleared of vegetation: remove trees and shrubs with maximum uprooting of the root system. After preparatory work, level the area.

Keep in mind that each adult goat needs about 1 square meter. m. area, and for kids - 0.6-0.8 square meters. m. Place the building on site so that the façade and walking pen are located on the south side.