Do-it-yourself electric plane: drawings for a homemade electric plane, from a grinder

The most famous carpenter, Papa Carlo, used to say that working with wood does not tolerate fuss and haste. It is for the soul and should bring peace.

A correctly selected hand plane helps with this - a carpentry tool that is used for planing wood. Its purpose is to give the surfaces of wooden elements the desired shape, eliminate roughness, chamfer and adjust parts to size.

The history of the hand plane goes back to ancient times, and primitive variations of it were discovered during excavations in the city of Pompeii.

Drawings and diagrams

Before assembling the benchtop jointer, it is necessary to develop drawings. In the process of creating them, you should take into account the elements that will be part of the diagram. Standard jointers without additional features include:

bed;
shaft equipped with blades;
rotating roller;
engine;
three tabletops;
emphasis

In the process of developing drawings, the master must indicate the main distances between the key elements of the stationary structure. To do this, you will need to take into account the location of the motor, roller and shaft with blades. The circuit will allow you to determine how much the number of output rotor rotations will decrease if there is an increase in power, and vice versa.

Homemade surface planer from an electric planer

A wood jointing machine is made with your own hands from an electric planer; it is the main component of the tool. They plan the lumber directly with it. There is no need to worry about the performance of a hand-made mechanism - as practice shows, the quality of products does not decrease much when using such a machine, in comparison with purchased equipment.

First, you need to decide on the size of the parts that you plan to create on the future tool. In accordance with the selected dimensions, the dimensions of the machine itself are already selected. The width and height of the equipment body, the length of the pin, and the length of the thicknesser guides are determined.

What you will need to make a homemade surface planer with your own hands:

Unoccupied manual electric planer.
DIY drawings of a surface planer from an electric planer.
Plywood and bars for assembling equipment casings, as material for assembling the casing.
A small amount of free time.

Studs and guides

Then you need to correctly determine the location of the pin with which the surface planer will rise and fall. The efficiency of the future machine in working on parts directly depends on how well it is located.

For example, you can place it in the very middle of the body of the instrument, which is done quite often by inexperienced craftsmen. But this is far from the best option, since it does not provide ease of use, and also does not provide reliable and easy fixation. Ideally, in order to avoid any particular difficulties when working with the tool, you need to place the pin between the front and rear handle of the tool.

To provide the pin with the necessary mobility, a rolling bearing is installed on the top cover of the surface planer, converted from a planer. A nut is installed on the middle plate - with its help, the height of the thicknesser becomes easily adjustable, with a small step and increased accuracy.

Machine guides contribute to efficiency and precision when machining workpieces. They are made from the most ordinary wooden blocks, which do not require too much money. They should be slightly longer in length than the part for which they are intended, that is, they should not be made directly along the length of the workpieces, but leave a small margin.

Among other things, the lower plane of the marking machine must be arranged so that during operation it can be parallel to its knives. This way it will be possible to achieve maximum accuracy when processing a particular part.

How to make a wooden plane

In recent years, the Russian market has been flooded with various instruments. Unfortunately, among their huge variety, you often come across instruments of very low quality, which is evident in the first minutes of working with them. The danger of injury, damaged material, waste of effort, time and nerves are just a few of the reasons why a beginner loses interest in making products with his own hands.

But there are craftsmen who make their own instruments, so much so that it is pleasant to hold it in your hands and comfortable to work with. We asked furniture designer, member of the Union of Designers of Russia, master executor of artistic woodwork of the 5th category, Alexander Kashtanov, to talk about how he does it.

My teacher, a talented artist-marketer, a wonderful teacher Evgeniy Lvovich Kozyaev said: “A person is greeted by his clothes, and a master is greeted by his instrument.”

He opened me not only to the world of typesetting wood, but also taught me how to make planes. It was from him that I got an idea of the culture of cabinetmaking and an understanding of the tool.

The hands and eyes of a master craftsman are the finest, most sensitive levels of quality, so your favorite tools are not only convenient, reliable, but also necessarily beautiful - you want to pick them up and not let go. And the most favorite instrument is the one that is made to suit your own needs, in accordance with your own aesthetic canons and which, unlike the instrument sold, already carries the correct geometry, personal ergonomics, and your own or observed innovations. Creating your own instrument is a matter of attitude both to skill and to your own sense of mastery, a test of originality, consistency, and maturity.

Very often in carpentry it happens that a special tool is needed for a certain operation. Finding and purchasing the necessary equipment is a matter of time and money, and theory and practice in the manufacture of hand tools allow you to make the necessary equipment yourself. For an amateur craftsman, making a tool is good practice and an opportunity to get a tool that is more accurate and convenient than an inexpensive industrial copy that requires fine-tuning.

Making planes is my hobby, and my main specialty is furniture design. I design both individual orders and industrial items, but I also enjoy carpentry, making designer chairs and furniture for myself. Carpentry brings me joy, and working with good hand tools brings me even more joy. It so happened that during my apprenticeship as a cabinetmaker, there were no decent tools on sale, but I inherited from my great-grandfather several old, pre-war European pieces of iron, and my mentor advised me to make the tool myself. Under his leadership, I made the first plane - a sherhebel. The master donated for me one of the blanks he had re-glued and aged for ten years.

Now the number of pads I have made has exceeded the third dozen. I made some for myself, mastering the stock of old iron, and some as a gift to familiar craftsmen. I was prompted to return to making planes again by the interest of the participants in the Craftsman forum. It turned out that the almost forgotten practice of making hand tools is of interest to both professionals and amateurs.

I am certainly not an expert in plane making, but my modest experience allows me to give some advice to those who are planning to make a plane for themselves. The first thing to do when working on a block is to determine its function: will it be a single plane, or a double one, or a moulder. A single plane, designed for roughing and finishing workpieces, is structurally quite simple, but it has one feature: depending on the size of the mouth, it is capable of removing fairly thick chips with a wide mouth, without clogging, but to the detriment of the surface quality. When the size of the mouth is small, the situation is the opposite: the plane will plan even problem areas cleanly, but will become clogged as the material removal increases. A double plane (a tool in which a piece of iron with a chipbreaker is installed) is intended for fine planing and can be made with either a traditional bed angle of 45° or a blunter angle of 50° for processing twisted wood. The manufacture of a molding plane, intended for profiling surfaces, will help the craftsman in the absence of a cutter of the required profile or when it is necessary to repeat the profile during restoration or copying.

If the function is defined or there is good hardware, a drawing is made. The heart of the plane is its knife. The better it is, the more justified the effort spent on creating the tool is. Drawings of the pads can be found both on the Internet and in the literature. After a drawing has been made that takes into account the geometry of the knife, you can begin to form the workpiece. There are several options for making a block. You can re-glue the workpiece using the classical method, when the internal surfaces are formed by extracting material from a solid body, solid mahogany. The upper part of the block is also made of hard wood, as it is subject to active mechanical stress. The inner layers of the block can be made from softer species - cherry, walnut, birch. This principle of forming the last makes it easier to process, allows you to vary the weight, and promotes shape stability. The material must be free of defects, cross-layers, and have a moisture content of 5-7%. When gluing, it is necessary to make allowance for further processing. You can glue the plots with high-quality IVA glue or the old-fashioned way - casein using zinc, following the rules for re-gluing wood. After gluing, the block is supposed to be kept for several months before processing, preferably several years, so experienced craftsmen keep a stock of blanks.

When the package is ready for use, the base is formed from the sole and then planed to size. Before marking, it is important to determine the direction of the fibers of the sole: during future planing, the fibers should not prevent sliding. If the method of making a block from one workpiece is chosen, then after transferring the markings from the drawing to the part, sampling of cavities begins by removing the material from the mouth of the plane. It is better to do it 4-6 mm deep. It is convenient to drill holes of a slightly smaller diameter inside the mouth, or you can use methods of assembling a block from several parts. I prefer to glue a workpiece from several plots and, after the necessary processing, combine the package with the cheeks of a plane.

The most critical surface of the plane is the sole. The service life of the tool depends on its quality. It must be made of solid, preferably finely porous wood without defects, twists or cross-layers. Traditionally, hornbeam, maple, apple, and pear are used for this, but ash is also suitable. Exotic wood species are also good - ebony, rosewood, which will lighten the entrance and beds.

When I make a block with overhead cheeks, I first use sawing to form the planes of the mouth, the tap hole and the beds, then I finally plan them with an end plane. I glue it according to preliminary markings on the inside of the cheeks: first I glue the back part with the plane of the bed onto the cheek, then I glue the front part, after which I glue the second cheek and shoulders. Next, a wedge is made. Fitting it requires special attention, since the reliability of the knife’s fixation and, accordingly, the ease of adjustment depend on its accuracy. A correctly fitted wedge fixes the piece of iron without excessive effort, almost with a light tap with a mallet or firm pressure with your fingers.

The ergonomic, hand-calibrated stops, front horn and rear stop or handle make the shoe particularly comfortable. I first rough out the handles, stops, and horns and cut them into the block, and only then finish them completely. I carry out primary processing and shape using circular saws, a jigsaw, and Forstner drills. I cut the horn of the plane onto a hidden dovetail tenon, and place a dowel or tenon in the end adjacent to the block. When forming the stops, it is important to remember their constant contact with the palms and fingers. I try to make the stops as comfortable as possible, smooth, without sharp edges. I finish the stops using a knife, semicircular chisels and a scraper. When the chamfers are removed, the final adjustment and finishing of the plane are completed, I grind the surfaces, then lightly wet them, let them dry, remove the lint and repeat the procedure. The finishing of a plane can be done in different ways. I use three to five coats of teak oil. Teak can be used

or linseed oil as a preliminary layer, followed by a coating of polyurethane varnish or alcohol shellac. The following surfaces are not covered: sole, bed, contacting surfaces of the wedge and shoulders. For the convenience of finishing the plane, instead of a knife, an exact model of plywood or wood is installed, securely fixed in the block, and then finishing is carried out. Recently, together with the talented craftsman Andrei Vedensky, I made a “Rubul” plane.

The instrument is made in a style slightly reminiscent of Baroque; The design of the cheeks uses the marquetry technique based on boule style ornaments made of American walnut burl veneer and nickel silver alloy. The block, cheeks, front stop and wedge are made of American walnut; sole - Macassar; the handle is made of European walnut. This plane combines my ideas about ergonomics, the technical aesthetics of a classic double plane, experience and tool manufacturing technology. I would like to note that the interest of forum and magazine readers in wooden planes has revived and enriched my personal experience and forced me to return to tool making after a long break.

You might be interested in:

Display cabinet for cutters and drills…

Assembly, wooden work table for the workshop…

Do-it-yourself carpenter's marking thicknesser...

Scraping and parting cutters

How to work on a homemade machine

Thicknesser based on an electric planer

Working with a self-made surface planer is extremely simple. The machine pin is set at the required distance from the edge of the part, the required size is set, and the block is fixed. After this, the machine tilts slightly away from itself, as a result of which the cutting part of the pin is exposed. Then all that remains is to pull the tool towards you.

If properly executed, such a home-made machine will be almost in no way inferior in functionality to the simplest factory models of this type of electrical equipment for a home workshop.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=uE6ENWTKt0I

Construction drawings

Drawings of the frame to which all the parts of the structure being created will be attached are given below.

The part being processed will rest on the surface of the plate, secured with 10 bolts to a frame welded from steel angles. There is a groove cut in it for a drum with knives. To guide the workpieces and prevent their lateral movement, a square is also attached to the base plate with M8 screws.

The shaft with knives (working drum) will be attached under the table top with M6 screws. To do this, bearings will be placed at its ends, which will be fixed to the plate with special fasteners. The movement from the electric motor to the working drum will be carried out due to a belt drive.

The motor is installed inside the frame on a shelf made of two steel strips, with holes drilled in them of the appropriate diameter for the frame mounting bolts.

It should be taken into account that the slots for the engine mounts (mounting grooves) need to be made several centimeters wide (2-3) in order to be able to tension the transmission belt.

The casing, fixed with M6 screws with spring washers to the corner, covers the belt drive. The power button is installed in a convenient place on the body of the electric plane.

When working with an angle grinder and drilling, you must wear glasses - they will protect your eyes from metal shavings. In general, when working with any tool, you should follow safety rules and use personal protective equipment.

Do-it-yourself thickness planer made from an electric planer

It is precisely this approach to solving most tasks for a surface planer that arise in a home workshop that we find most interesting.

First of all, this interest is based on minimal modifications to an existing tool to perform the work of expensive equipment with almost the same result.

By installing an electric planer on a platform with variable height, we get almost the same thickness planer. True, it is not the position of the work table that is regulated, but the position of the working tool in relation to the workpiece being processed, but this does not change the essence of the process. The role of the table here is played by a flat, powerful board with width limiters on the sides. They also serve as the mounting location for the main unit. But first, let's talk about him.

On the planer, we will replace the rear support plate with a homemade one made from OSB or plywood, with a thickness that ensures the same level as the front plate, which regulates the required gap (1 - 3 mm) for removing chips. Its width should correspond to the width of our improvised desktop.

On the sides of this plate, slats are screwed to attach the legs, the height of which is dictated solely by common sense. It is obvious that, based on the standard width of the plane knives of 82 mm, the thickness of the workpieces being processed should not be more than 100 mm, so the distance between the axes of the leg fastenings can be taken as 110 - 120 mm. Accordingly, their total length will range from 140 to 160 mm with a width of 35 mm and a thickness of at least 10 mm. The legs are fastened strictly at the same distance from the edge of the bar.

Installation of the assembled movable upper unit with an electric planer on the desktop is carried out locally, so that the fastening is strictly at the same level. This is done to ensure that its movement is parallel with respect to the base surface, which will ensure accurate processing of the workpiece.

The easiest way to set the height during work is by selecting slats of appropriate thickness, screwed onto the work table width limiters, or using other stands.

And the clamping of the working tool is ensured with spring ties or a harness, but for small workpieces this is not required at all. Also, in a given position, this parallel platform can be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video of using a surface planer assembled by yourself:

Types of equipment for sharpening knives

The device used for sharpening planer knives can be classified according to a fairly large number of different characteristics. Among the features of the classification, we note the following points:

There are manual and mechanized devices. The first option is easier to use and much cheaper, while the second allows you to significantly increase processing speed. Electric tools have become quite common these days.
When considering the device for sharpening planer knives, you should pay attention to the grain size of the abrasive. Too large grains cause rapid material removal; reducing their size allows you to reduce the thickness of the removed layer in one pass.
There are homemade and purchased devices. A homemade sharpener copes with the task.

A large number of different companies are engaged in the production of sharpening devices. In many ways, the popularity of the brand determines the cost of the mechanism.

Additional Assembly Tips

The metal for the stove is cut with a grinder or jigsaw. To cut a groove, it is convenient to use an electric jigsaw, having previously drilled a hole for its file in the slab, or an electric drill with an appropriate attachment. The edges of the slot are processed with a file so as not to get injured by them later.

You can secure the metal base plate with flat head screws (so that they do not interfere with work) or by welding it. The first option is preferable because, if necessary, the electric plane is easy to disassemble.

Before installing the drum, it is recommended to check the sharpness of its knives. If it is bad, then it is better to sharpen the blades immediately, using, for example, a regular whetstone. It is necessary to constantly ensure that the cutting attachments are well secured without distortion.

The basis for making your own knives are steel plates or hacksaw blades for metal, sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees.

The sequence of making an electric plane from a grinder with the working drum placed in a vertical position is demonstrated in the videos below. It also shows possible errors when assembling a homemade product.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=SY6xchF8VzU

Another option for creating a homemade electric planer from an old, non-working model is shown step by step in the video below.

Using the made power tool, you can process boards, beams and other workpieces. An electric planer assembled with your own hands must be used in compliance with safety requirements. The parts must be fed correctly to avoid getting your fingers caught in the drum.

There are many options for homemade electric planes. They have varying degrees of complexity, as well as different functionality. In this regard, the limitations are mainly related to the technical thinking of the inventors and the parts and materials available “at hand”. If necessary, the manufactured equipment can also be equipped with automation equipment.

DIY thicknesser machine

The need to make a thicknessing machine with your own hands often arises in a situation where the use of conventional planing is clearly not enough to obtain a smooth surface for the future floor or parquet. It will not be possible to use an electric planer; the quality of the surface after an electric planer will probably be quite high, but it will obviously not be possible to get rid of the stripes that appear on the surface of the wood with each pass.

There is only one way out - try to make a thickness planer using an electric planer according to the drawings with your own hands. Thanks to the powerful bed and guide rails, the surface of the wood after processing the board with a thicknesser will be relatively uniform and flat.

Thicknesser from an electric planer

To build a full-fledged thickness planer, you first need to make a frame or table on which the tool will be mounted. The electric planer is equipped with a powerful commutator motor, which can easily cause injury, so the fastening of the homemade surface planer to the table must be strong and reliable.

The second step is to select a plan for the layout of the surface planer. The simplest version of the device is shown in the drawing and photo.

In fact, it is necessary to make a movable platform on which the electric planer itself will be mounted. The lifting height of the tool sole on the surface being processed is adjusted using four screw-nut pairs installed on the sides of the device.

The main difficulty in operating an electric planer is correctly adjusting the lifting height of the cutting edge. In normal mode, the extension of the knife above the plane of the sole is adjusted by a screw spring-loaded handle. The amount of overhang is usually checked visually or by hand, whereas when working in the thicknesser mode, you will have to be guided only by the readings of the scale on the handle.

The only disadvantages of a planer of this type will be the small width of the surface being processed, 90-100 mm, and the actual loss of the electric planer as a hand tool. It is clearly inconvenient to disassemble and reassemble a thickness planer every time you need to remove a couple of millimeters from a nailed board.

Homemade woodworking thickness planer

Often, when carrying out carpentry work, there is a need to use a thicknesser to run a board or a board glued together from slats with a width of more than 100 mm. Planks and panels made of wood 100-140 mm can still be somewhat leveled with an ordinary hand-held electric planer, provided that the material is securely fixed on the workbench. True, it is necessary to plan diagonally in several passes, followed by processing with a manual grinder.

Cross planing of wide boards can still be used for one or two boards, but if we are talking about two dozen boards or boards, then you obviously can’t do without a homemade thickness planer.

The simplest version of a surface planer is shown in the diagram.

The basis of the design is a massive steel frame welded from angle steel. An asynchronous motor with a power of 1.5-1.8 kW and a speed of at least 1200 rpm is installed in the lower part of the frame of the thicknessing machine. The motor must be mounted on a spring-loaded cushion to ensure tension on the machine drive belt and reduce vibration on the thicknessing knives.

The second most important element is a cylindrical block with slots for knives and bearing supports. You will have to buy this thicknesser part ready-made; making it yourself is almost impossible

The drum with bearings is installed directly on the machine bed after mounting the work table.

At the last stage, two pulleys are selected for the belt drive; the ratio of the diameters of the pulley groove should be in the range of 2.5-2.8. A pulley of larger diameter is mounted on the motor shaft, and a smaller one is mounted on the drum shaft. The rotation speed under load should not exceed 4 thousand rpm.

Sharpening plane knives on a machine and adjusting them

It is worth considering the point that sharpening a plane involves its setting and adjustment. A similar process also involves adjusting the degree of blade extension. The sharpening procedure itself is characterized by the following features:

The procedure involves removing metal from the cutting edge.
It is important to maintain the proper angle, since an incorrect angle causes a decrease in the effectiveness of the tool. The correct angle is maintained using a special device.

Sharpening when using the machine is simplified, since it is possible to secure the workpiece securely and set the proper angle. At the same time, it is possible to replace nozzles with varying degrees of abrasiveness. Coarse grains are used initially to remove large amounts of material, while fine grains ensure high quality surfaces.

main idea

Yes, such a homemade jointing machine, unlike serious industrial designs, has a number of disadvantages, namely:

Cannot boast of high processing accuracy;
The width of the workpiece is very small - only 110 mm;
Lightweight is a disadvantage, since a heavy massive base always gives the device stability and, as a result, ease of use, which ultimately improves the quality of the result.
Low power, limited by the power of a household electric planer;
The body material is wood, that is, not durable;

However, it also has undeniable advantages that make it very useful for achieving certain goals and performing a number of tasks, since it has the following advantages:

Low cost - serious jointing machines cost tens and hundreds of thousands of rubles, and the cost of this homemade jointing machine consists of the cost of the plane and materials;
Compact and portable - it can easily be stored anywhere in the workshop and can be deployed for work in a matter of minutes.
The simplicity of the design affects its reliability and maintainability.
The ability to make the necessary dimensions of the machine “to suit you”, for example, you can increase the length of the work table or change the height.

How to make a sharpening device?

If necessary, you can make the required device for sharpening plane knives yourself. This version is characterized by the following features:

Low cost.
Possibility of application in a wide variety of cases.
Versatility.
Long service life.

The only drawback is that you cannot change the sharpening angle. That is why the functionality of the device is significantly reduced.

Additional Assembly Tips

The basis for making your own knives are steel plates or hacksaw blades for metal, sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees.

Hacksaw blade

Another option for creating a homemade electric planer from an old, non-working model is shown step by step in the video below.

How to check the quality of blade sharpening

Before installing knives into the tool, it is recommended to check the quality of their sharpening. The simplest test is this:

Take the blade in one hand and regular printer paper in the other.
A sharpened edge is drawn along the edge of the sheet from top to bottom or they are tried to cut it across, holding it suspended.
Evaluate the result.

If the knife is sharpened well, the cut will be perfectly smooth and neat. A dull edge will not cut the paper or will tear it roughly and unevenly. After regrinding, you need to check the tool in operation on a test workpiece, which you don’t mind ruining.

Warning! It is not recommended to evaluate the sharpness of metal with your finger without appropriate experience. A well-sharpened corner can leave a deep cut.

How to extend the life of an electric planer

An electric plane is one of the main tools for woodworking. Properly configured, it is an indispensable assistant in the hands of a carpenter. If, over time, the tool settings have gone wrong, or you don’t know how to prepare the electric planer for work, then it is advisable to get specialized advice, which we are ready to offer in this material. Otherwise, all the work when working with an unregulated plane will go down the drain, and there will be little pleasure from such miserable work.

Like any tool, the plane must be properly adjusted before work. And an electric plane imposes even more stringent adjustment requirements than hand tools. Therefore, the following steps should be carried out before each work with such equipment.

The only warning before inspecting the tool is to follow the safety tips. So the cutting parts of the plane must be treated very carefully. After all, due to the fact that the cutters of this tool are extremely sharp, you can cut yourself on them even when the equipment is turned off, not to mention when the equipment is running. Otherwise, such equipment should be treated like any other power tool.

Planer knives: which ones can be sharpened

The main element of the mechanism in question are knives. Their cutting part can wear out quickly under certain conditions. When operating planes, attention should be paid to the fact that there are two types of devices:

Manual ones are extremely common today. In the manufacture of the main part, plastic, metal or wood can be used. The blade is made using special steel, which is characterized by increased wear resistance.
Electric planers are used when processing large quantities of material. Thanks to the built-in motor, you can significantly increase the speed and efficiency of the process.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that an electric tool can have several incisors at once. Due to this, the efficiency of the process is significantly increased. The main part is made of tool steel or tungsten. It is worth considering that the tungsten cutting part cannot be sharpened; after severe wear, it must be replaced. In this case, the surface may differ in shape and some other parameters.

Required materials and tools

Let's consider the manufacture of the simplest design, designed for a planing depth of up to 1.2 mm and a width of processed wooden workpieces of up to 120 mm. To assemble such an electric plane with your own hands, you will need the following materials and parts:

bearings;
steel strips;
pressure plates;
M6 and M8 screws with nuts;
spring washers;
metal corners (20x20x3 mm);
staples;
sheet of plywood (10 mm) or metal (3-5 mm thick);
belt drive pulleys installed on the shaft of the electric motor and drum;
a drum (with one or two knives) from an old planer or electric planer, on which you can change cutting attachments;
a working electric motor from a grinder, an old electric plane or a planer;
belt;
button (switch) to turn the electric planer on and off;
wires and cord with plug;
residual current device (RCD);
capacitors (if the electric motor used is three-phase).

Installing a separate RCD for an electric plane in the panel (even directly on the machine) will increase electrical safety when working with equipment. Protection is selected according to the power of the working engine. The cord and wires must be of a suitable cross-section, taking into account the power of the installed electric motor.

Phase shifting capacitors must be connected in parallel. In this case, the required total capacity is determined by the power of the installed electric motor: approximately 100 μF per 1 kW. Capacitors must be designed for mains voltage.

To implement the project you will need the following tools:

several wrenches designed to tighten the nuts on the bolts;
roulette;
building level;
marker or pencil;
welding machine with electrodes;
an electric drill with drills and a circle of small diameter intended for cutting;
a jigsaw with files for it for wood and metal or hand saws for a similar purpose;
angle grinder complete with wheels for cutting metal.

https://verstakdoma.ru/stati/instrument/samodelny/rubanok-svoimi-rukami/
https://tehnika.expert/dlya-remonta/elektrorubanok/delaem-instrument-svoimi-rukami.html
https://drevogid.com/instrumenty/ruchnoj-rubanok.html
https://zdesinstrument.ru/ruchnoj-rubanok/
https://stankiexpert.ru/ehlektroinstrument/rubanok-ruchnojj.html

A budget option for a homemade surface planer

This is the simplest method of using an electric planer as a surface planer. Of course, it would hardly occur to anyone to call this design a thickness planer, but in terms of the function it performs, this is exactly what it is.

We deliberately selected an option for wide blanks. Indeed, in this form it performs work that most industrial thicknessing machines cannot do precisely because of the width of the material being processed, and in our case it is limited only by the length of your hands.

Of course, we cannot recommend such a barbaric attachment of an electric plane - a rather expensive tool - to a moving platform. Much more interesting is the option of securing it, described in the previous section of the article, but using a wider platform and moving the slats along the width, and not along the axis of the tool

In this case, the danger of damaging anything important inside the plane body is reduced to zero.

In the example given, a glued assembly of wooden slats of various sizes and even types of wood is processed.

Height adjustment is made by installing calibrated bars on the sides of the work table, two sets of which will allow you to process an unlimited number of workpieces on both sides to a given thickness.

How to sharpen a plane knife

The first attempt at straightening the cutting edge showed good performance of the created device for sharpening carpentry tools, but immediately pointed out its shortcomings, which were made in a hurry.

What complicates the work of the sharpening trolley

About the body height

To create a high-quality cutting edge, you need to set the sharpening angle correctly. It is formed by extending the blade of a plane, used as the hypotenuse of a right triangle.

This factor must be taken into account when creating the cart height. To form the sharpest corners, I needed to extend the knife out of the sharpening device as much as possible, and this is not very convenient.

Therefore, when setting up, I reduced the height of the device to a minimum by cutting off part of the body. It only took a few minutes, and the capabilities and ease of use of the tool expanded.

About the width of the distance between the wheels

A mistake was made here too. A wide cart requires a large whetstone or large area sandpaper. It's not economical.

I reduced the distance between the ball bearings as much as possible, and they began to fit on a homemade whetstone I made from ceramic tiles. With its help, it is convenient to fine-tune the cutting edge after straightening it on coarse-grained sandpaper.

Planer device

During the evolution of the plane, quite a lot of its varieties have appeared, which can not only process the planes of wood, but also be used for figured cutting. To enjoy manual labor, you need to be able to choose the right plane, and then you will get real works of art from an ordinary piece of wood.

Modern planes can be divided into wooden and metal models. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, but in terms of design, the instruments are similar, like twin brothers.

A standard plane consists of the following parts:

sole, also known as body;
cutter;
wedge;
slot for chip exit;
cutter clamp;
cutting depth regulator;
horn - front handle;
emphasis - rear handle.

The key element of the design is the cutter - this is a cutting tool made in the form of a pointed plate.

The blade is positioned at a given angle to the surface being processed. Thanks to the regulator, the knife extends to a certain distance, which allows you to finely adjust the depth of cut and the thickness of chip removal. In factory models, the blade sharpening angle is standard, but professional carpenters change it depending on the type of wood being processed.

The handles also play a certain role. The front one, called the horn, performs a guiding function and usually has a curved shape that provides a better grip on the hand. The rear one is a stop, thanks to which the force necessary for work is created.

With the sole, which can be wooden or metal, everything is not so simple. The main criterion for this structural element is a perfectly flat surface.

If this requirement is not met, it will be difficult to use a hand plane, and you can simply forget about planing accuracy. Taking these nuances into account, a metal sole looks preferable: it is made according to a template, so a priori it has the correct geometry. However, mistakes made by the manufacturer during casting reduce these advantages to zero. Moreover, the metal is susceptible to corrosive changes.

A wooden sole is lighter, and if deformed, you can straighten it yourself, breathing a second life into the plane. However, wood is not a durable material; it is subject to mechanical wear and loses its original properties when exposed to moisture or high temperatures for a long time.

Despite the standard design, there are more than 10 types of planes, and each tool performs a specific function when processing parts. Let's take a closer look at these products.

Overview of species

Depending on the quality of the planer knives, the operating speed of the tool is determined, as well as the final result.

Also, the type of blade affects the way the surface is processed and the shape that can be obtained at the end of the work. Manufacturers of machine tool equipment produce several types of planes, each of which differs mainly in the type of blade provided in the design.

If we classify planes according to the method of surface treatment, then the following types of knives are distinguished.

Direct

With their help, it is possible to process small-sized workpieces. If desired, you can choose a quarter to carry out the necessary work. The blades have a classic straight shape and are positioned at a specific angle to create the desired result.

Rounded

Demanded for processing large surfaces. Such blades are used when it is necessary to organize a neat and smooth transition between planing planes.

Curly

This category includes planes, the knives of which allow you to achieve complex geometric shapes when processing a wooden surface. Structurally, the blades resemble the knives of classic planes, however, they have a number of features. By using curly knives, they create a wave-like surface shape and imitate “aged” wood. To determine a suitable knife, manufacturers use special markings that can be found on the surface. This way, when purchasing a blade, you can quickly choose the appropriate option.

Machine parts

A homemade jointer is represented by a combination of various units that are connected together. The manufacture of the jointer must be carried out taking into account the information below:

Base. It is represented by the lower part, on which various nodes are based.
Side wall. It acts as a load-bearing element to which various components are attached for mounting.
The table is rear or fixed. This element is attached to the side wall and forms the plane of movement of the workpiece.
Front table. Often this element can change its height. A special mechanism is created for this.
Side support. It is mounted on the back table; its main purpose is to direct the movement of the workpiece.
Spacer corners. They are used to strengthen the structure and increase its stability.
Electric planer. An electric planer is used as a basis in the manufacture of the structure.

This mechanism is characterized by a fairly simple design. To connect individual units, various fasteners are used.

Manufacturing algorithm

To assemble the device with your own hands, adhere to the established plan. The sequence of actions looks like this:

To create a support, a rectangle is cut out of metal. Markings are made on it for the drum and mounting holes;
Steel corners are screwed in on all sides of the slab with bolts and then welded;
From the remaining corners, cut out 4 legs for the plane;
The resulting racks are welded to the corners of the slab;
A rack for the motor is assembled from steel strips. It is attached through holes in the support;
The seams are being cleaned;
The plate is removed;
The upper parts of the corners are welded so that there is no space between them;
The resulting seams are cleaned with a grinder or file;
The stove is put in place;
Under the slot, a drum and bearings are placed on clamps or brackets;
The engine is secured in the desired position (the shaft must protrude);
Pulleys are installed on the shaft and drum;
A belt drive is installed;
The engine is installed in such a way that the belt tension is sufficient;
A plywood or tin casing is created. It is attached with screws to the corners so as to cover the belt and motor;
The case is covered with plywood at the location where the start button is installed, then the button itself is installed;
A capacitor is installed if necessary;
Assembling an electrical circuit with your own hands (power cable, button, machine, capacitors);
The first test run of the device takes place.

After starting work, the master pays attention to the direction of rotation of the drum. It should be carried out in the same direction from which the wooden blanks for planing are fed