Do-it-yourself emery from a washing machine engine with photos and videos

Often a situation arises when it is necessary to sharpen a tool or sharpen knives. To perform these works, a sharpening machine is best suited - it is also called a sharpener or an emery machine. This is the simplest power tool, which consists of an electric motor and an abrasive wheel. There are many options sold in the retail chain, which differ from each other in price and manufacturer, but are designed to perform one function - sharpening a cutting tool. Do not rush to purchase a factory-made electric sharpener: any home craftsman can make it with his own hands if he has the necessary spare parts.

Where to start making?

Homemade emery can be made at home, since there are quite a lot of recyclable washing machines.
At any scrap metal collection center there will always be a dozen used household appliances. Engines rarely fail; more often, leaks occur or electronics break down. The electronic boards used are comparable in cost to the machine itself. Therefore, after replacing the boards two or three times, users get rid of the device. They believe that it is better to buy a new one for regular use, and the old one is sent to a landfill.

For a nominal fee, it is not difficult to become the owner of several washing machine motors. If necessary, you can check them on site. You will need:

• a small piece of wire with a plug;
• some insulating tape;
• pliers;
• knife for stripping ends;
• switch.

Attention! The design provides for the use of an asynchronous motor. It is turned on using capacitors. Therefore, when removing the electric motor, you also need to remove the capacitors. Their connection diagram is indicated on the engines.

Electrical equipment required to connect the engine to the network

In my case, it was planned to connect to a 220 V network, and therefore a capacitor was needed. According to the rules, to start a motor on a single-phase network, 10 microfarads per 100 W of power are required. I found 3.9 uF = 10% capacitors in the garage. Therefore, I took two barrels, in total it turned out to be almost 8 microfarads, which I connected in parallel.

A wire from a regular wall lamp with a switch was also used.

Capacitors connected in parallel, ready for connection

Making a support and auxiliary table

The tool requires a support frame. To make it you will need a large pipe and an angle grinder. Manufacturing process:

• Following the drawing, a groove is cut out on the pipe for installing the capacitor. To do this, use an angle grinder. The groove is made on the rectangular section of the pipe from the wide edge.
• To fix the electric motor, small holes are cut out in the corners of the part.

• 
  Then the prepared corners and pipe blanks are welded using a welding machine. This creates a frame.

• The required number of holes are drilled in the frame to install the engine. An electric drill is used for this.
• In order for the table to move to the desired position, two grooves are cut on the surface of one metal plate. The grooves are drilled with an electric drill. Their shape should be longitudinal. In this case, there is no need to make grooves in the second plate, which will be on top.
• A square pipe and 2 metal plates are welded using a welding machine. It turns out to be a table.
• The table and frame are connected by bolting.
• All irregularities and rough places on the structure are cleaned. A metal brush is attached to the grinder and grinding is carried out.
• All metal elements of the structure are coated with paint.

For stability, rubber shock absorbers are installed on the bottom side of the frame. They are fixed with self-tapping screws. The switch is attached to the structure according to the electrical diagram.

Making a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the “grinder” is the same as an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder has very high speeds and often quite a decent weight. To polish a surface with a grinder, you need to have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and circles. The grinder has much lower engine speed and weight. To operate a factory grinding machine, no specific experience or skill is required.

You can independently make a good grinder from an angle grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by modifying its electrical circuit, by installing the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding attachments.

Adapter

This is the only detail that cannot be made by hand. You will need a lathe and, accordingly, a person who knows how to work on it. What is the adapter for? The fact is that the size of the motor shaft is about 14mm, while the mounting hole

The emery circle usually has a diameter of 32 mm. This means that their “direct” connection is absolutely excluded. The adapter seems to increase the washing machine motor shaft to the required size.

To make it, you will need a piece of round steel, approximately 65 mm long. and diameter 60 mm. The last figure is due to the need for the so-called flange - a fixed washer on the body of the part, into which a circle of emery rests on one side. Its thickness must be at least 4 mm. A seat with a diameter of 32 mm is machined in front of the flange. Next comes the “M20” thread, onto which the nut that secures the circle will be screwed.

For mounting on the engine, a hole is made in the adapter body with a diameter equal to the shaft. Then everything depends on how the pulley was fixed on the washing machine. There were two main options:

1. Using a thread on the motor shaft and a large nut.
2. Bolt 4, screwed into the adapter body, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the motor.

The part being manufactured must have one of the following mounting methods, depending on the type of engine.

Sometimes, home craftsmen try to minimize costs and make an adapter with a flange themselves. Most often, a pipe with suitable internal and external diameters is used as a base. You shouldn't do this without proper experience. The fact is that it is very difficult to select a suitable workpiece, so “beats” and distortions are inevitable. It will be unsafe to work with such emery. You should not save on your health, especially since the cost of a master’s work will not exceed 500 rubles, and if the part is made from its own material, it will cost even less.

Another adapter diagram for making emery from a washing machine engine

Options for homemade designs

Making a grinding machine with your own hands is not difficult. The main thing is that it corresponds to the types of work that the master plans to perform. From an economic point of view, it is better to take components that are on hand. If you have to buy the components of the device, then the budget of a home-made device will be comparable to a factory model. All other things being equal, it is better to give preference to an industrial tool, because its quality is disproportionately higher.

Let's look at a few handmade devices. Perhaps one of them will suit you.

Do-it-yourself grinder from an angle grinder

As the name suggests, the grinder is designed for grinding. Cleaning discs successfully cope with rough work: removing old paint, removing metal deposits or traces of corrosion. For finer cleaning, special attachments made from sanding sheets of various grain sizes are sold.

Models for domestic use operate in one mode, and the number of revolutions reaches 15 thousand per minute with an average of 11 thousand. This speed is great for sawing materials, but it is too high for sanding work.

The grinder's motor has excess power. For polishing, 300–400 W will be enough.

A grinder made from an angle grinder will have more weight compared to a factory tool, but it is possible to adapt a homemade one for yourself, which will increase comfort when grinding.

For an angle grinder, you can make a simple attachment that will turn the device into a miniature belt grinder. In this case, work is carried out without a protective casing.

If you do not want to use devices, you can adjust the number of engine revolutions. Independent modernization of the circuit will require specialized knowledge in electrical engineering.

On professional devices, you can set the number of revolutions manually, however, their cost starts from $200.

Making a grinder from a drill

You can use a drill to build a productive belt sander with your own hands. In this case, the tool acts as a drive. The design itself is simple and does not require significant investment. To make it yourself you will need the following materials:

• metal rods with and without threads;
• profile pipe;
• plywood;
• steel sheet;
• bearings;
• hardware;
• wood glue.

You should make sure that you have metalworking tools, an inverter and devices for sawing metal.

Stages of work:

Manufacturing of pulleys. The driving and driven pulleys are designed to transmit torque from the drill to the grinder. They are made from plywood.

By changing the diameter you can obtain the desired torque. One pulley consists of several round timbers, which are connected using wood glue. In the center it is necessary to drill holes for steel rods. After the glue has dried, the workpieces are modified by making a groove that must correspond to the width of the drive belt.

Manufacturing of drive and driven shafts. They are also made from plywood, similar to pulleys. More round logs should be prepared for them.

Assembling the lower part. To do this you will need a profile pipe. First of all, it is necessary to make mountings for the bearings and connect them. This is the base for the working shaft.

Making the top part. The tension mechanism will be attached to it.

We make the thrust part from a steel sheet.

Drive installation

Please note: for normal work it is better to take a powerful drill. Finishing work. All that remains is to install the pulleys, tension the drive belt and assemble the protection

After this, the hand-assembled device needs to be coated with paint.

For small and precise work, it is better to purchase compact drum or plate type attachments, depending on the type of work.

Homemade grinder from a computer hard drive

From an old hard drive you can assemble a small grinding device, the main advantage of which will be the complete absence of investments, with the exception of the cost of abrasive wheels. The DIY manufacturing process is as follows:

1. Open the case and remove all elements located next to the magnetic disk.
2. According to the size of the upper part of the drive, cut out a circle of sandpaper of the desired grit.
3. Using double-sided tape, secure the paper to the surface of the disk.
4. We make a casing that protects from dust or abrasive grain.
5. To start the design, the hard drive must be connected to the computer's power supply.

How to adapt a drill and grinder to an electric sharpener

You can make emery not only from a suitable electric motor available. You can use a power tool for this - it could be an electric drill or a screwdriver.

The latter is less suitable for these purposes: it has insufficient power and a short battery life.

Making a sharpener from a drill begins with purchasing an attachment.

The sharpening stone is secured in it and then clamped into the chuck. All that remains is to secure it to a stationary base using a special mount, which can be purchased at a store that sells power tools. With the help of such an electric sharpener you can straighten an ax, sharpen a kitchen knife or thread a drill.

In case of emergency, a sharpener can be made from a grinder. To do this, you do not need to purchase special devices and mandrels necessary for attaching the emery. You just need to secure it in a horizontal position on a massive base, install a standard cutting or sharpening disk, and the sharpener is ready for use.

Making a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the “grinder” is the same as an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder has very high speeds and often quite a decent weight. To polish a surface with a grinder, you need to have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and circles. The grinder has much lower engine speed and weight. To operate a factory grinding machine, no specific experience or skill is required. You can independently make a good grinder from an angle grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by modifying its electrical circuit, by installing the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding attachments.

Sharpening device from a washing machine: selecting a motor for emery

In terms of its power and configuration, the electric motor from old-style washing machines is ideal for portable homemade emery. As a rule, motors from units such as Siberia, Volga or Vyatka are used for this purpose. Approximate characteristics should be:

• mains voltage - 220 V;
• power - up to 370 W;
• rotation speed - no more than 3 thousand rpm.

Attention! If you construct an emery from a more powerful engine, a significant number of revolutions can simply break the whetstone during operation.

The parameters of the engine are necessarily indicated on its body. To make emery, a device with a power of 100-150 W and 1-1.5 thousand rpm is sufficient. It will cope well with household sharpening of repair equipment and kitchen utensils.

Old engine

A faster grinder (for example, an emery machine based on common engines with 2.8 thousand rpm) is appropriate to use for grinding or polishing parts. In this case, the emery stone should be stronger, and the main fastening element, the flange, should be of better quality and stronger.

Advice. To assemble emery from a motor with your own hands, you can use both a 1-phase and a 3-phase motor.

Self-installation of emery

After the homemade emery is designed, proceed to fixing it on the workbench. Remove the bracket from the equipment and secure the product to the workbench using bolts. Position the motor horizontally. To reduce the amount of vibration that occurs during installation, place a edging made from a rubber piece of elastic hose on the corner.

Safety precautions include the creation of a special casing that will protect against breaking off fragments of the abrasive wheel. Use a thick metal ring (strip), 2–2.5 mm in size.

Position the sandpaper so that it is convenient for you to work with it

A small piece of galvanized sheet should be fixed under the workpiece, which will serve as good protection for the workbench from flying flammable sparks. Don't forget to wear special glasses.

The sanding machine will be more complete and professional if you use plexiglass, the thickness of which is 5 mm, it is fixed to the engine casing. If desired, you can design a homemade emery with glass that tilts at an angle of 180 degrees. A hand rest you can lean on will add convenience.

Homemade sandpaper from a drill

You can also make a sharpening machine from a regular electric drill. In this case, it is better to use a drill that has a speed controller for the motor shaft, then you can set the rotation to a safe speed. It is advisable to order a flange for fastening the stone from a turner and have it made with a shank so that you can attach the flange directly to the chuck of an electric drill.

It is convenient to use such a machine if you have a vice - you just need to carefully clamp the drill in it. Another option is to mount the drill on a workbench so that the chuck protrudes over the edge of the table. This homemade emery is much safer than emery from an angle grinder, and it is very easy to make with your own hands.

Dear site visitors, share in the comments what you think about creating emery with your own hands and what good designs there are for such a homemade machine.

Mini sharpening machine

An electric sharpener is sometimes necessary if the master is engaged in modeling: during work it is often necessary to sharpen small parts. A large sharpener is not suitable for doing small work, so they often make mini-emery with their own hands. The assembly algorithm is as follows:

• take the motor from a computer hard drive or a children's toy;
• the tension sleeve of the spoke from the moped is soldered to the engine axis;
• a small grinding wheel is screwed to the shaft with a screw and washer;
• connect the power supply;
• fix the device on the bed, and the emery is ready.

Often, electric motors from a faulty sewing machine are used for these purposes. The advantage of this machine is that the motor has a speed controller, and this expands the capabilities of the device. It can also be successfully used as a polishing machine.

Bushing (flange)

The bushing for seating the whetstone is the most complex component of our device. This sleeve is also called a flange. What is a flange? This is a piece of metal pipe, the inner diameter of which ideally fits the electric motor shaft and is securely fixed to it. The outer diameter of the flange must coincide (with small errors) with the mounting diameter of the grinding disc. A thread is cut along the outer diameter to secure the disk; the thread must be opposite to the direction of rotation of the shaft. In other words, if the motor shaft rotates clockwise, then the threads must be left-handed. And vice versa, if the shaft rotates counterclockwise, then the thread on the sleeve should be right-handed, normal. That is why, just above, I advised connecting the motor with counterclockwise rotation.

If the electric motor has a fixed direction of rotation (old style) in the clockwise direction, then you will have to look for a lever for a left-hand thread. The fact is that if the directions of the thread and the rotation of the shaft coincide, then the probability of unwinding while moving is very high - the sharpening stone can easily fly off during work and injure others.

The best option would be to contact a turner you know and order the production of this bushing. Usually, a turner just needs to bring a pulley from the engine and tell him the mounting diameter of the grindstone. Most modern stones have an internal diameter of 32 mm. But it’s not for nothing that our web resource is replete with the motto “do it yourself” and it is quite possible to make a flange yourself. Of course, the quality will be worse than from a professional turner, but this does not require special skills or special tools.

You can also buy a suitable bushing from the Chinese.

So, the base will be a metal pipe “1/2” - a half-inch water pipe. According to GOST 3262-75, the internal diameter of this pipe is 15 mm, the external diameter is 21.3 mm. The outer one fits well with the mounting diameter of the grinder disc (22 mm), it may well come in handy. But the most important thing is that this diameter is well suited for a 32 mm nozzle, but more on that below... The internal diameter is 15 mm. does not fit any motor shaft and this discrepancy will have to be eliminated.

If the shaft rotates counterclockwise, you can use a plumbing pipe with a “1/2” thread as a pipe. If it is not possible to control the direction of the shaft and it rotates clockwise, then the thread will have to be cut independently using a left-hand thread tool. In any case, it is advisable to select a piece of pipe without a seam - the seam on the outside will not create any special problems, but the thickening from the inside of the pipe will contribute to beating during rotation.

A piece of threaded pipe must be cut to the required length so that the thread is on one side. The inner edges need to be processed with a round file. When choosing the length of the future flange, you need to try to make it as short as possible, but so that all the components fit on it. It is important to take into account the fixation bolt - there may be a recess or a cut edge on the shaft; the bolt on the sleeve in this place should not interfere with other parts.

As mentioned, the thread is only needed on one side of the sleeve, but the sharpening stone needs to hold something on the opposite side. A short piece of 32 mm polypropylene pipe is well suited for this purpose. must be marked SDR 6.0 (internal diameter 21.2 mm). A section of 1.5-2 cm must be cut as evenly as possible - this determines whether the stone will make figure eights during rotation.

A piece of PPR pipe needs to be placed on a metal bend so that there is a little less than a centimeter left before the thread - this is the place for the cleaning disk for the grinder. It will not be so easy to fit a plastic pipe onto a metal one. To do this, you need, firstly, to arm yourself with some kind of tube with a diameter larger than that of a metal pipe and smaller than that of a plastic piece - with this tube you can stuff a PPR pipe into a pipe. Secondly, the squeegee needs to be heated, for example on a stove, to a temperature that causes the water to hiss. A piece of PPR is hammered onto the hot pipe.

To securely fix the flange on the shaft, you need to drill a hole for the locking bolt. Naturally, the space for the bolt depends on the location of the recess on the shaft. It’s good when the location of the hole coincides with the mounted PPR pipe - there will be additional fixation. Perhaps there will be no space on the shaft at all for the fixation bolt, then this place is chosen arbitrarily and you need to try to drill the shaft a little directly through the bushing so that the bolt enters the hole a few millimeters. The flange itself is threaded for the bolt. To avoid cutting the thread, you can use a thick self-tapping screw with a fine thread pitch. Having cut the thread, the bolt or self-tapping screw is cut to the required length - so that it rests securely on the motor shaft, but also does not stick out too much from the sleeve.

Now it’s time to fit the bushing onto the motor shaft. The problem is that usually the shafts of electric motors from washing machines made in the USSR were produced in two diameters: 11 mm. and 14 mm. and these figures had quite large errors in the form of tenths of a millimeter. For example, in the photo in this publication the engine has an 11.9 mm shaft. Therefore, you need to look for a way to increase the shaft diameter to 15 mm.

In the case of a shaft with a diameter of ≈11 mm, a convenient solution would be a piece of 16 mm metal-plastic pipe. — the outer diameter can be sharpened directly on the motor shaft to 15 mm. And plastic generally fits well mechanically - the excess is simply crushed by a metal pipe. The internal diameter of the metal-plastic is about 12 mm. - if the shaft is thicker, then the pipe tends to stretch; if the shaft is too small (which is unlikely), then the additional thickness is achieved with one layer of electrical tape or heat-shrinkable tubing. A piece of metal-plastic pipe needs to be “pulled” onto the shaft with force, or rather even hammered in - this is the result that needs to be achieved. We must not forget about the recess on the shaft for the fixing bolt and find a way to mark this point on top of the metal-plastic.

When the MP piece sits securely on the shaft, you can turn on the engine and lightly grind the surface. This is an important point: you need not to remove excess - the metal squeegee must be forcefully driven over the MP. When installing a steel pipe, you must not lose the place where it is fixed with a bolt, and align the hole on the sleeve with the recess on the shaft. When the hole and recess are aligned, the MP pipe must be drilled to the motor shaft directly through the hole in the flange. When pushing the bushing onto the shaft, in order not to break the thread, you need to screw a nut onto it. When the flange is mounted, fix it with a bolt (or self-tapping screw). With the engine running, we evaluate the presence of beats and the quality of alignment. The beating of the bushing is not as bad as the “reconciliation” of the PPR section - you can straighten it with a file right on the go.

In the case of a shaft with a diameter of ≈14 mm, only about 1 mm needs to be filled. — this can be achieved with several layers of heat-shrinkable tubing, preferably adhesive.

Once the bushing is attached to the motor, the hardest part is over. All that remains is to make an attachment for the “32nd” stone, put on the washers and screw on the nut. The nozzle is made from the same 32 mm PPR pipe, with the difference that it will have to be “combed” a little from the inside to fit freely onto the sleeve. The M20 reinforced washer fits perfectly as washers. I couldn't find anything better for the nut than a plumber's locknut. A regular M20 nut is too wide and inappropriate.

When test-running the entire assembly, you should pay attention to the runouts and “eights” of the stone, and not the washers and nuts - the locknuts are rather crooked products, the washers have a slight play on the inner diameter. Small beatings of the stone are eliminated by simply sharpening it, and figure eights are corrected by aligning the PPR segment, which acts as a stop.

How to choose a motor for a sharpener

It is advisable to assemble some tools with your own hands. Most home DIYers know that an electric sharpener is too expensive. Therefore, craftsmen independently assemble this product from a frame with an electric motor, but choosing the right power plant is too difficult. This is worth doing for the following reasons:

• Models offered on the market disproportionately increase their cost as power increases. Usually, almost the most powerful modification is required, but it simply costs unrealistic money.
• The product has too many unnecessary accessories that increase the price significantly. These are various curtains for the button, protection that interferes with operation and a beautiful casing for the engine, which, to be honest, is completely unnecessary.
• There are often gaps in product lines. You need some power with the ability to hook a variety of circles, but the manufacturer does not offer what you need.

All these troubles can be removed if you select the engine yourself. This is not difficult to do if you have certain skills. Now you can quickly create a high-quality product, but for this you will need to apply a little intelligence and your own working hands.

What qualities should a sharpening engine have?

We do not take into account the possibility of modifying certain elements, because all this can be too dangerous. Try to choose a model that has the following characteristics:

• It is advisable to have an independent shutdown when jammed. This will avoid burnt brushes and self-starting after the work is completed. All this is fraught with unpleasant consequences.
• The engine must be protected from dust or be insensitive to it. Moreover, in most cases this dust is an excellent conductor of electric current. You can simply get burnt windings literally out of the blue. This fate often awaits craftsmen who try to adapt a household power plant from a washing machine or vacuum cleaner to their small industrial needs.
• There is no need to take a model with too many revolutions. Torque is important to you. Nowadays, defective sharpening stones are not uncommon. Centrifugal force can tear them apart, and the pieces fly with enormous force in different directions. Usually 1500–2000 per minute is enough; you can also set it to smooth adjustment to provide solutions to various types of problems.
• The motor shaft must be suitable for clamping the wheels. It will have to cut a thread for a bolt and a pressure washer. The direction of twisting must coincide with the direction of the circular movement, otherwise the circles will fall off all the time. The shaft must also allow holes to be drilled. Some models already provide this by default.
• If we talk about power, then 2 kW will be enough for almost any task. Don't forget that a circle has the ability to maintain momentum. You can compare it to a kind of flywheel that constantly helps maintain the moment of inertia. Moreover, the heavier the circle, the greater the impact it will have on the part being turned. The most important thing is that the engine has power reserves. The proposed option is optimal for turning blanks of knives and garden tools.
• Try to choose a model with a good support heel. This will allow you to correctly attach the product to the workbench tabletop or intermediate spacer made of PCB. When fastening, it is advisable to use spring washers to prevent unwinding. Some experts recommend pre-coating the threads with a special varnish. You can even install welding points, because the grinding machine is usually installed in one place for life.

How to set up an emery machine and make a protection

How to secure the sanding machine and put protection on it? You can screw it to a workbench.

To do this, use the bracket that is in the washing machine. To reduce vibration during operation, rubber gaskets are placed on the corner, which can be made from a piece of hose.

If the device is installed on a wooden workbench, cover it with a sheet of metal on top to prevent fire.

For your own protection while using the machine, install a metal arc over the disk. You can also enhance the protection by attaching 5 mm thick plexiglass to the pendants. The glass can be raised and lowered using hangers.

Making a sharpening machine yourself is not difficult. The main thing is to secure it and connect it correctly. Also follow safety rules when working, use safety glasses and special clothing.

Safety precautions when working on a sanding grinder

Like any other work on any other machines, grinding on a homemade belt sanding machine is subject to fairly strict safety rules that must be strictly adhered to.

The principle of operation of the grinder.

These rules are as follows:

• It is strictly forbidden to touch anything that moves with your hands while the machine and working surface are operating.
• Wear safety glasses while working to protect against hot abrasive particles.
• Carefully check that the connections and fastenings of all moving parts of the grinder are tight.
• Monitor the condition of the braiding of electrical wires.
• A protective casing is a must, even though it slightly narrows the viewing angle.

Algorithm for assembling emery from a Malyutka washing machine motor

First of all, we make the frame of the future mechanism. It can be made from a thick wooden board, wood slab, suitable plastic, but a thick metal slab is best. The electric motor is attached to it using brackets, corners or clamps. The connection between the electric motor and the stone occurs via a flange.

Homemade flange

Making a flange is one of the technically difficult operations when assembling homemade emery. It is usually done using a lathe. To do this, it is necessary to measure the diameter of the output shaft and the abrasive wheel that will be used in the sharpening machine. However, if you don’t have a lathe at hand, you can do without it. In the video below you can see how to make an emery flange from scrap material yourself:

The flange is secured to the shaft using a nut, bolt and washer. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the direction of rotation of the shaft: the thread on the nut should be in the opposite direction.

This is done for safety reasons so that during operation the nut does not unwind under the influence of vibration of the machine, which can cause the abrasive wheel to fly off and cause injury.

Finally, all that remains is to mount the electric sharpener in a permanent place and supply electricity. The emery from the Malyutka engine is ready.

In the case of using an engine removed from an automatic washing machine, you can make a sharpening machine in a similar way, the only difference is in connecting the electricity. The motor from an ordinary washing machine has four wires: two are connected to the working winding, and the other two are connected to the starting winding. To determine the working winding, it is enough to measure the resistance of both. The resistance of the starting winding is 30 Ohms, and the working winding has only 12 Ohms. The engines of modern cars have six terminals, two of which are the output of a tachometer with a resistance of 70 Ohms. Finding them won't be difficult. These wires must be insulated.

The connection diagram is as follows: both windings are connected in parallel and connected to the network, and a button is connected to the gap in the starting winding. To do this, you can take a starter or adapt a button from a doorbell.

Characteristics that a belt for a sanding unit must meet

Selecting an abrasive strip is an important step when assembling a mini-grinder with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on the length of the tape and its width. The geometric parameters of the strip are influenced by two main factors:

• grinder dimensions;
• purpose of the unit.

Fabric base withstands surface tension better

Endless abrasive strips are also classified into grit types. The length of the sanding strips can be different (from 610 to 1830 mm). Such tapes have a width of 50 or 100 mm. The first option is most often found in units assembled by hand at home.

A high-quality abrasive strip must have an elastic fabric base

When choosing the right tool, you also need to pay attention to how many revolutions the strip can withstand. It is recommended to purchase products that can operate at 1500 rpm

This option is best suited for making a belt grinder with your own hands. The drawing drawn up earlier must contain information about the dimensions of the abrasive strip and its other characteristics.

A good tape must have high abrasive resistance. The wear resistance of the tape depends on this indicator. For homemade machines, it is recommended to use belts whose length is no more than 123 cm. The abrasive strip must not only be resistant to wear, but also have good resistance to high temperatures generated during friction against the workpiece during operation.

It is worth noting that short-length tapes are much more susceptible to wear than longer products.

Experts advise paying attention to pictures depicting finished products. Photos of the machines allow us to answer the question of how to make a grinder with your own hands

The design of the device can be significantly simplified if ready-made elements purchased separately are used in its assembly.

The speed and quality of product processing depends on the choice of tape.

And finally, special attention must be paid to the place where the abrasive tape is glued. The junction of the two ends of the strip should be as neat as possible, without any defects or protrusions

How to glue the tape for the sanding unit yourself

Belt grinders contain a spring, which performs a very important function: it tensions the belt that has sagged due to wear. The belt is changed several times even when processing a small workpiece. This should be remembered.

When assembling a grinder with your own hands from plywood or metal, you can make an abrasive strip yourself. Gluing such tape is a complex undertaking that does not tolerate mistakes. There is a lot of advice on the Internet on how to properly glue tape, but many of them are incorrect.

The gluing process is as follows. First you need to select a fabric-based sanding material. Then you should prepare both ends of the abrasive strip. To do this, they are cleaned. The seam on the strip is made exclusively using the butt method. Experts definitely recommend reinforcing the glued tape from the inside with a thick strip of fabric, which is fixed with a special adhesive composition.

Gluing tape is a complex process that does not tolerate mistakes.

In order to connect the ends of the abrasive strip, you need to purchase a special adhesive composition. The best option is to use elastic glue. There is no point in saving money, since cheap products, as a rule, are not of good quality.

Before gluing, it is necessary to prepare a strip for sanding tape. A do-it-yourself grinder (from scrap materials) needs a reliable abrasive strip, which is difficult to do at home. The process is carried out using a glue stick, which is installed on hot-melt guns. First, the composition is heated. To do this, you can use a regular hairdryer, which is found in every home.

Which engine is suitable for making emery?

Wondering what engine you can use? You can use any motor from a washing machine, even the brands “Vyatka”, “Riga” or “Volga”. The main thing is that it has sufficient power.

For normal operation of the sharpening machine, a power of 100-200 W, with 1000-1500 rpm, is enough. For particularly large parts, a 400 W motor is suitable. But if the engine speed reaches 3000 rpm, it needs to be adjusted or a very durable disc installed.

What you need to create emery from a washing machine motor

To make a simple sharpening machine you will need:

• washing machine motor;
• flange;
• sleeve;
• attachment to the electric motor (emery wheel);
• casing for protection;
• support;
• starting device.

When purchasing, it is better to choose a product with two circles: a finishing and a rough version.

You also need to make an adapter with a flange. Since the size of the shaft does not match the hole of the grindstone, an adapter must be made. It can be done on a lathe, having previously determined the dimensions and completed the drawing. On the diagram you need to mark the diameter of the shaft and the emery hole.

You can make a flange for the shaft yourself. A piece of pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, no more than 200 mm in length, will do. It should fit perfectly on the motor shaft. On one side of the flange there is a thread, the direction of which depends on the direction of movement of the shaft. When sent to the engine, the other end of the flange is heated and pressed.

After installation, be sure to secure the flange. This can be done by welding or bolting, drilling the flange with the shaft.

The shaft adapter is ready. It remains to install the element for sharpening the cutters.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands.
The reason for this question is quite simple: the high cost of serial grinding equipment, which not everyone can pay off if not used regularly. In order to make such equipment, you will need several main components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable frame. Naturally, drawings of such a device or a photo of it would not be superfluous. Also at the end of the article you can watch videos on assembling a tape machine on your own. The motor for belt grinding equipment is not difficult to find; it can be removed from an old washing machine. You will have to make the frame yourself; for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach the platform on which the electric motor will be mounted to it. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be secured to the frame very securely using several bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sanding machine directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are planning to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5–3 kW, developing about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order for the sanding belt to move at a speed of 20 m/s when using such a motor, the drums must have a diameter of about 200 mm. What’s convenient is that if you choose an engine with these characteristics, you won’t need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is connected directly to the electric motor shaft, and the second - driven - must rotate freely on an axis, which is installed in bearing units. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the frame on which the driven shaft is installed should be made with a slight bevel.

You can make shafts for a belt sanding machine from a chipboard with minimal financial costs. Simply cut square blanks of 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and place them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After this, all you have to do is grind the resulting package and make it into a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm.

Drawings and detailed analysis of some parts of a machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

In order for the tape to be located strictly in the middle of the shaft, the diameter of its central part should be 2–3 mm larger than at the edges. And to prevent the tape from slipping on the drum, it is necessary to wrap a layer of thin rubber on it, for which you can use an old tire from a bicycle wheel, having previously cut it along its entire length.

The sanding belt for such a machine, the optimal width of which should be 200 mm, is made from ordinary emery cloth. The standard cloth is cut into strips of the required width, and an abrasive tape is already glued from them. It should be borne in mind that the material is glued end-to-end; for this purpose, dense material is placed on the reverse side, which will strengthen the resulting seam. The properties of such a seam are greatly influenced by the glue; it must be of very high quality, then the material will not tear along the seam after a short period of use.

Several more options for manufacturing belt grinding machines can be seen in the video below.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=opM1afRob6o

How to make your own emery from a washing machine motor?

The home craftsman has a lot of different tools, and it wouldn’t hurt to make your own sandpaper from a washing machine motor. In the workshop, you often have to sharpen metal-cutting and carpentry tools. Craftsmen use a sharpening machine, which has only a couple of parts: a motor and a sharpening stone.

How much does the machine cost? In the retail chain, the cheapest product can be purchased for 1500-1700 rubles, but the engine power is small, it will be approximately 120 W. You can buy a suitable sharpener from China, the power of which will be 300-400 W, but it will cost more than 2000-2200 rubles. It is not difficult to make emery out of a washing machine motor; it will cost much less than store-bought. It will take a little effort, and the result will be a machine that will help in further work.

Selection of electric motor

To make emery yourself, you first need to select a suitable electric motor. Most often this is a motor from an old-style washing machine, for example, Malyutka - it is perfectly suitable for this purpose . Such a motor meets certain requirements: its power is in the range of 100-200 W, and the speed does not exceed 1500 rpm. If the rotation speed is higher, there is a risk of destruction of the abrasive wheel.

High engine speeds are needed for polishing parts, but they are not suitable for sharpening.

To make homemade emery, you can use any other electric motor. It must meet certain parameters.

1. Shaft rotation should be minimal. Motors with no more than 1,000 rpm are best suited.
2. The motor power should be between 100 W and 1 kW. The most commonly used motors are 400 W motors.
3. It is desirable that it has legs for fastening.
4. A single-phase or asynchronous motor, designed to be connected to a 220-volt network, is best suited.

Simple DIY machine

The step-by-step process for making a small sharpener that can be placed on the wall is shown below.

Instead of an abrasive stone, you can install:

• mechanical brush from an angle grinder. It is used to remove paint and rust from the surface of workpieces;
• felt circle. Using GOI paste, craftsmen polish small items.

Steps for creating emery from a washing machine engine with your own hands

For a homemade device, a belt-driven motor is useful.

All that remains is to assemble the device correctly. After installing the flange, put the nut and washer on the shaft, then a large emery wheel, and then the nut and washer again.

Motor connection

How to connect the motor from an automatic washing machine:

Immediately after connection, the motor for home emery will start working, and you will be able to evaluate the functionality of the device.

Connecting the electric motor of Soviet-made washing machines differs from the previous version.

The motor is now connected. But before starting work, you need to thoroughly secure the machine to avoid an emergency.

Connecting (checking) the motor

Naturally, before you start assembling something, the electric motor must first be connected and tested. In old washing machines, there are two versions of motors: an older and high-quality one, it has a closed housing with an impeller, with two supply terminals, and a newer one - four terminals, no impeller, cooling occurs through holes in the front and back, through which the windings are visible.

The old version does not require any capacitors for starting - the starting winding is cleverly connected and disconnected inside the engine using a special mechanism. Thanks to this, no connection difficulties should arise: both outputs are connected to a 220 volt network. The disadvantage of such a motor is that the direction of rotation of the shaft is preset by an internal connection and cannot be changed. Typically the direction is clockwise and therefore it will be necessary to use a left hand thread to attach the stone.

The newer version has four terminals of two windings: working and starting. You can distinguish them using a multimeter: the resistance of the working winding is about 10 Ohms, the starting winding is about 40 Ohms. Perhaps the resistances will differ from those indicated, but only slightly. The starting winding must be connected through a 4-5 µF capacitor for a voltage of at least 400 V. I have come across composite capacitors for similar motors: two connected in series, 10 µF each at 300 V. That is, in this way the maximum permissible operating voltage of the finished capacitor was raised. Using a composite capacitor of two with low voltages (at least 300 V) is possible, but not advisable. Capacitors should be non-polar!

You can check the engine without capacitors and starting winding at all: voltage 220 V. supplied directly to the working winding. With this connection, the motor will start without load in any direction. To set the direction of shaft rotation, you need to connect the starting winding and capacitor. For emery, you need to set the direction counterclockwise

. The connection diagram is shown below, if the shaft rotates clockwise, you need to change the connection of the starting winding.

In many publications on the network I have seen a statement that the starting windings do not need to be connected at all, and the direction of rotation must be set manually when starting. Allegedly, if the starting circuit is used, the engine will burn out. I can only explain these speculations in one way - one wrote something stupid, and the rest were copied from the first. I can say with confidence: the starting winding can and should be connected through a 4-5 uF capacitor, the starting circuit should always be connected, without any additional buttons. And if the motor is working properly, such a connection is safe and completely harmless for it.

What I made from an old grinder: the second life of the instrument

Sharpening machine from a faulty grinder

Reworking a burnt-out power tool is a fairly popular topic. So today, in our “Stories” section, we want to offer the reader another option that will allow you not to throw away old units, but to try to use them to maximum benefit. In his review, Mikhail Dobrovolsky will talk about how he used spare parts from a burnt grinder to make a sharpening machine.

Somehow I came across an old grinder, the engine of which burned out three years ago, and it was a pity to throw it away. It was then that I remembered that I had in stock an electric motor produced back in Soviet times. After thinking a little, I realized that the parts of the grinder, if combined with a motor, could make a good sharpening machine. This coming weekend I started work, which I want to talk about now.

This is the deplorable sight the Bulgarian presented

Base

The frame on which the engine will be mounted does not require any special material costs, but this does not make it any less significant. The base must be well thought out, since making emery is not an end in itself; you still have to work on it. At the same time, all attention should be focused on sharpening the tool, and not on holding the motor jumping all over the workbench with your hand. Working like this is, at the very least, inconvenient, and in this case there is no talk of compliance with safety regulations at all.

Therefore, the base of the emery should be heavy enough, and most importantly, allow the motor to be fixed in the same way as it was fixed to the washing machine. It is best, of course, to make the frame metal. True, you will have to use welding for this. If this is not possible, then you should take a suitable piece of chipboard and bolt metal corners onto it to mount the engine. Even better, remove the motor from the washing machine along with the standard bracket and screw it to the base. The main thing is to use bolts and nuts for this; self-tapping screws can become loose and unscrew due to vibration.

There is one more key point. The height of the motor mounting should not only allow the emery wheel to rotate freely, but also provide a gap of 4 - 5 cm between it and the base. After the motor is securely mounted on the frame, you need to think about the support table. It must be metal; welding can be replaced with a bolted connection. If the starting capacitor on the washing machine was moved outside the motor housing, you need to provide a place for it on the base of the sandpaper.

Once the motor is securely fastened to the frame and all auxiliary elements are installed, you can proceed to the electrical connections. But first you need to make sure that the grinding wheel is securely fastened to the motor shaft, as well as that there are no various beats.

Manufacturing algorithm

Considering that home machines will be interchangeable in terms of the type of processing, and the decisive role will be played by the attachment installed in the drill, we will consider two main options for home-made units - horizontal and vertical.

The procedure for assembling a vertical machine is as follows.

• Cut a square base 50 by 50 cm from a piece of metal or wood, with a thickness of 10 to 20 mm.
• Drill a hole in it exactly in the center at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge for mounting the stand. The diameter of the stand must be at least 5 cm.
• Install the stand, center it using a level and weld it with a welding electrode. If you are making a wooden machine and the stand will be wooden, then firmly fix it with self-tapping screws.
• Using metal clamps, secure the drill to a movable element that will be put on the stand, forming a lowering/raising spindle.

Place the spring on the strut. Its length must be at least 2/3 of the rack. Having placed the drill on the stand, mark the place where the drill will hit when lowering the spindle. According to this place, cut two through hollows in the frame crosswise. A table is installed in the groove on the threaded pin on which the workpiece will be mounted. A nut is screwed onto the pin from the bottom side; it will fix the table in the desired position.

You can also attach the table to the pin from the outside with a nut, recessing it into the surface of the table so that it does not interfere with the placement of workpieces. It is important that after securing with a nut, the length of the outer part of the pin is flush with the top surface of the table.

The assembly algorithm for a horizontal machine looks like this.

• Cut a rectangular frame - dimensions are determined individually.
• At one edge, secure a seat for a drill with a hollow in the upper part corresponding to the size of the tool.
• Secure the drill to it with a clamp.
• Cut a through groove for the pin along the frame, and install two metal corners along the edges along which the pressure sleeve will move.
• The width of the pressure sleeve must exactly match the distance between the guide angles (runners). A threaded pin is screwed into it from below, which will move in the hollow.
• By moving the sleeve close to the drill chuck, determine the place where the special headstock will be installed for fixing the workpieces.
• Attach the headstock to the bushing with a metal cone-shaped pin placed in the center.
• The sleeve is fixed in the desired position (for clamping the workpiece) with a nut screwed onto the pin from below.

In both options, it is necessary to provide special adjustable legs for the frame.

If the bed rests flat on a workbench or table, it will become impossible to adjust and fix the clamping sleeve on a horizontal machine or the workpiece table on a vertical one.

DIY emery assembly steps

Step-by-step assembly of electric emery with your own hands. Attaching the motor to the base of the machine:

1. The base of the machine is a 50x50 cm chipboard board. The engine is placed in its middle part and the dimensions of the engine are outlined with a pencil in order to know approximately where it will be installed.
2. The engine typically has four studs or long screws that hold the engine housing together. Two adjacent studs will be the points where the support brackets will be screwed.
3. Emery support brackets in the shape of the letter “P” are made from two pieces of galvanized steel 5 cm wide and such a length that the distance between the legs is equal to the distance between the head and the screw nut, and the height of the legs is approximately 6 cm. Holes are drilled in the legs of each bracket for a screw, in the long part of the bracket there are two holes for self-tapping screws.
4. Unscrew the two adjacent screws, put the brackets on the petals of the body covers and put the screws back in place.
5. The staples are turned so that their long sides lie with each other in the same plane, and the screws are tightened.
6. The engine is installed in the previously outlined location on the brackets and screwed with self-tapping screws to the emery plate.

Attaching the trigger circuit and toggle switch to the base:

1. Take a liter plastic container with an acrylic paint lid (or similar) and screw the lid next to the engine so that the container can be inserted into it, turning the latter upside down.
2. A cut is made on the side of the bucket for the wires, and a toggle switch is installed at the bottom of the bucket with the switch lever facing outward.
3. All capacitors are glued to the lid with hot glue and connected by soldering to the toggle switch and power cord.
4. The bucket is put on and snapped onto the lid, after inserting the wires into a pre-made slot.

Making a flange for attaching a sharpening stone:

1. Two circles with a diameter of 60 mm and one circle with a diameter of 32 mm are cut out of plywood with a jigsaw.
2. In the middle of each circle, a hole is drilled with a diameter equal to the diameter of the engine working shaft.
3. Two circles of different diameters are combined with holes and connected to each other using glue and two self-tapping screws.
4. In the resulting part, at the end of the larger circle, a through hole with a diameter of 3 mm is drilled to the center and a self-tapping screw (locking screw) is screwed into this hole so that it is visible in the central hole.
5. 2 mm of steel is removed along the motor shaft on one side so that the locking screw resting in this place does not allow the flange to rotate.
6. The flange is placed on the motor shaft and secured with a self-tapping screw.
7. A stone is placed on the flange and tightened with self-tapping screws through a wooden circle.

Making a protective casing:

1. The protective casing consists of two parts, both of which are truncated cones. The distance between them should be 2.5 cm wider than the thickness of the grinding wheel.
2. The side parts and the end of the casing are made of galvanized steel and connected to each other by soldering with a powerful soldering iron.
3. In one place of the end, a grinder is used to cut out a window for the working area; on the side, a vertical slot is made with a width equal to the diameter of the engine shaft so that the casing can be put on top.
4. The casing is attached to the chipboard using emery using self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself cutting, sharpening and circular machine from an angle grinder

In this narrative

I showed some attachments and accessories for angle grinders and what their cost is. For little money you can expand the functionality of your grinder to a set of several tools.

But some devices can be made quite easily yourself, turning the grinder into a series of simple but convenient machines that will always come in handy in a workshop or at a construction site.

We have a thick plywood sheet. It has fastenings installed on it: racks that secure the rear part of the angle grinder through a bearing assembly on clamps. The front part of the grinder rests on a corner and is also fixed to the plywood. This is an easy way to make a grinder or sharpener.

Why a bearing unit? And in order to quickly turn the machine into a cutting machine. Just remove the corner from the front. And in the plywood we make a slot using a disk on the wood. On the right you can see the workpiece stop.

If the structure (the front part of the angle grinder) is fixed in a certain position so that the disk remains in the slot, and the sheet itself is turned over and installed on the legs, you will get a miniature circular saw. Just use it with workpieces that will not lead to the disc biting. I would exclude metal (aluminium) for work. And follow safety precautions!

How to assemble such a 3 in 1 machine, watch in this short video:

You can simplify this fastening unit, purchase four corners at a hardware store and screw the bearing unit to them.

I suggest looking at a few more options for homemade frames and accessories for your angle grinder, which will allow you to work both on a grinding (or sharpening) and cutting machine:

A plate with corners welded in the shape of a rectangular pipe (or you can immediately weld a rectangular pipe 60x40 mm) - we screw two corners to it with holes for attaching an angle grinder. A piece of round pipe is welded onto the plate for attaching a stand to support the workpieces. We fix the angle grinder with two bolts and clamp the “stand table”. That's it, we can grind or sharpen (depending on the stone or attachment on the grinder). But also - follow safety precautions!

The next option is a cutting machine for a large and powerful angle grinder:

The basis of the design is a turning mechanism from a truck. It is screwed to the frame, and a bracket for attaching the angle grinder is welded to it. Between the frame and the bracket there is a spring to return the angle grinder to its original position. The workpiece is also clamped with a homemade clamp made from an elongated nut and a stud on the same frame. There is no need to hold the workpiece with your hands.

There are similar frames made in China on sale. But as they write in the comments, they have too much play and the quality of the cut is poor.

Another option for a similar-purpose crosscut for a powerful angle grinder. Although, something similar can be done for any size angle grinder:

The main thing here is to make the hinge assembly with high quality - so that it does not play left or right. This design is even simpler than the one shown above. But they all require a welding machine and a drill. If you don’t know how to cook, maybe this will be a reason to make a machine and learn how to work with welding, having first purchased a welding inverter.

Well, in conclusion, an option for a low-power angle grinder and for those who do not want to bother with welding: a cutting machine based on a door hinge mechanism.

Everything about installation is clear even from two or three photographs. But you need to modify the door hinge: insert a pin instead of the axle and tighten it. This will reduce the backlash. For cutting at 90 and 45 degrees, you need to install a stop, a corner on a sheet of the frame (preferably plywood, not chipboard) in pre-marked and drilled holes.

Result of work

The sharpener is ready.

The result is a sharpener like this, there are a lot of uses; if desired, you can make polishing wheels, emery wheels, etc.

How to make a flange with your own hands?

The most difficult task of the entire project was attaching the sharpening attachment to the motor shaft of the washing machine. The shaft does not have the required threads, and its diameter does not fit the hole in the stone. To eliminate the discrepancy, it is necessary to make an attachment for the electric motor.

On one side the adapter has a hole for attaching to the shaft, on the other there is a threaded flange for installing a grinding wheel. It is made using a lathe. A drawing is prepared in advance indicating the dimensions of the shaft and the diameter of the inner part of the grinding stone.

Progress:

• Take a pipe with a diameter of 32 mm (depending on the shaft) and a length of no more than 200 mm.
• On one side, make a thread in the direction that will coincide with the side of rotation of the engine.

Important! If the motor moves clockwise, the thread is left-handed. And vice versa. Otherwise, when you turn on the sharpening unit, the stone will fly off.

• Warm up the other side and put it on the shaft.
• The pipe is fastened using welding or a bolt. The last option involves drilling the shaft and pipe.

The engine mount is ready. All that remains is to secure the device with a nut and washer. Now you can put on the emery disc, which is also secured with a washer and nut. You can create installations with two circles.

Connecting the motor from the washing machine

For successful operation of a homemade device, it is important to correctly connect the belt-driven motor. If you used an automatic machine, then 6 wires come from the motor. You only need 4 of them to connect. How to determine which ones? By calling:

• Take a multimeter and apply probes to the wires one by one.

• If two of them show values ​​of 70 Ohms, these are the tachometer connections. They are not needed for work.
• Determine the compatibility of the others based on paired indicators. You should be left with two wires from the brushes and two from the stator.

Have you decided? Now do this:

• Fasten one wire of the brush and stator together, secure with electrical tape.
• Connect the remaining ones to a cable with a plug.
• After plugging the plug into the socket, the shaft will begin to rotate.

The motor from a Soviet machine has only 4 wires. To determine their purpose, a call is also made:

• Apply one probe to one wire. Apply the other probe alternately to the remaining wires. Your task is to find pairs.
• Now measure the values ​​between pairs. The one where the resistance is lower (12 Ohms) is the working one, where the higher resistance (about 30 Ohms) is the starting one.
• Connect the working connection to the power cord and plug.
• For convenient use, install a starter. A doorbell button is suitable for this. You can do without a button, but then when you turn it on, you will have to rotate a large sandpaper by hand for the unit to start.

How to connect the button is shown in the picture below. SB means button, OB means working winding, PO means starting winding.

What to do after making the necessary parts?

Once all the necessary components are ready, begin assembling the emery. An adapter, a grinding wheel, a flange are put on the shaft, a nut is screwed on and the whole thing is secured with a bolt. The appearance of such a homemade emery is shown in Fig. 1. To connect to the network, you may need a long two-core wire and an electrical plug.

If the direction of rotation of the motor shaft needs to be changed, this is done by switching the corresponding windings of the asynchronous motor from the washing machine. If necessary, you can contact a familiar electrician to do this.

If the motor has 4 ends, then this will be quite simple: just identify the windings with a tester and change the ends on one of them.

When working with this device, you must follow safety precautions and wear safety glasses, etc.

Materials and tools for making emery with your own hands:

1. Grinding and polishing wheels.
2. Electric motor from an old washing machine.
3. Cylindrical rod made of tool steel.
4. Sheet round timber for flange and nut (metal).
5. Bolt.
6. Lathe.
7. Electrical cable and plug.
8. Vise.
9. Tap.
10. Calipers.
11. Paper and pencil.

Making an emery tool for home projects is quite simple. The main thing is to take into account all the above recommendations. The homemade machine is so simple that it starts working right away. You can sharpen drills, knives and scissors at any time.