On graph paper, the pattern is given for size 37-38 of two main parts. The dimensions of the remaining parts are in the description here.
This is what the pattern itself looks like:
Foot-sole, toe-heel part, circle - flower (with a bead in the center) for decoration. The elongated part is the bunny ear for the “Bunny” slippers.
Attention! This same circle is also a bunny tail, if someone wants to sew “Bunny” slippers, the basic pattern is the same.
Construction of the pattern:
1. Sole.
We take a sheet of paper, put it on the floor, stand with our feet and trace our foot :) We trace along the edge, keeping the pencil straight, perpendicular to the surface, no need to bend it under the foot. We add about 1.5-2 cm to the length, you can outline autumn shoes without heels, shoes are best, then without adding centimeters. The length from the center of the toe to the center of the heel for sizes 37-38 should be 25.5-26 cm, for sizes 38-39 approximately 26.5 cm. Check these dimensions in accordance with your foot and shoes. We build a template for the sole, focusing on the photo, level it, round it, etc.
An increase in centimeters is needed, because we will insert padding polyester (or other insulating material), and it “takes up” no less than a whole size, plus the leg needs some freedom.
2. Toe-heel part
. The length from the center of the sock up the leg to the shaft (the center of the front of the detail) is equal for all sizes from approximately 12.5 to 14.5 cm, as desired!! The height from the center of the heel to the boot is 6.5 - 7 cm. Next, we measure our sole (foot) pattern around the perimeter, divide by two (at the same time we make guide marks for the center of the heel and toe on the sole itself - this will be very useful when assembling parts) and add Approximately 1-1.5 cm for the fit of the sock and a slight fit at the heel. The resulting length should be equal to the bottom line (where we sew it to the sole), line up the bottom line approximately as in the photo. The top line is 16-17 cm.
3. Circle for a flower or tail
Mine are 9-10 cm in diameter. The ears are optional in length and width, I make them 4x14 cm.
And this is a pattern of the main parts on graph paper for size 37-38. Up to size 39 or 36 is quite easy to adjust. Keep in mind that when changing the size, the pattern changes more in length and less in width, that is, not proportionally.
Now about the number of parts for the “Snow White” model; it is sewn from fleece of the same color
Sole
— 4 parts made of fleece, 2 parts made of raincoat fabric, 2 parts made of synthetic padding (or other insulation but not hard and not very thick, for example thin batting)
As an option: instead of raincoat fabric and padding polyester, you can use ready-made quilted jacket fabric, artificial leather (not thick, soft)
Heel-toe part
— 4 parts made of fleece, 2 parts made of padding polyester
Bootleg
— rectangle 18*32 — 4 fleece pieces
Note
. 32 cm - width and does not change
18 cm - height and varies at will (and the shape of the top may not necessarily be straight either, use your imagination)
Flower
— circle with a diameter of 9 -10 cm, 6 fleece parts
This is roughly what it all looks like after cutting, don’t forget to mark the centers and other points of the parts for assembling the boots in the future:
We begin assembling parts
When assembling, we combine the designated points - the centers of the parts with the corresponding marks of another part
First, we connect the upper toe-heel part with padding polyester (insulation) and fasten it with a machine stitch along the edges. Then we assemble the sole like a puff pastry simply :) I fasten the sole by hand over the edge, making sure that nothing gets warped. You can do this on a machine, but then leave a little more in the allowances to even it out, trim off the excess, if you can’t sew it evenly, there are still a lot of layers and they are voluminous. Parts with padding polyester are lightly steamed through a damp cloth, lightly!! We crush the synthetic winterizer with an iron.
Then, as in the photo, we connect the toe-heel parts with the boot, you get 4 connected parts. Then we sew the back seams, leaving small sections unsewn in the lining, see photo, through which we will turn our boots inside out. And after that we sew the soles into all 4 parts.
We turn the upper part of the boot to the right side, leaving the inner part - the lining - on the left side. Just like in a puppet theater, we put the top, front boot on our hand and insert it into the lining, matching toe to toe, heel to heel, accordingly. We also combine the upper sections starting from the back seam, chop them off and sew them together.
Through the left, unsewn sections of the lining, we turn it inside out, pull it out from the inside, align it, stretch all the seams, and sew the open unsewn area in the lining edgewise.
Now we insert the lining inside, align everything, put it directly on the leg, pull and pull wherever necessary :). From the inside, I make four thread fastenings on the upper part of the boot with the lining so that the lining does not fidget :))
2 fasteners in the sock: at the center of the toe and at the boot, and two fasten on the heel, where the back seam connects with the sole and boot.
All!!! Next is your will: flowers, beads, in the center, along the cuff (bend it if you want) on top, etc. In this model “Snow White” there are three flowers in the center; you mark the center directly by putting the boots on your feet. When sewing on flowers, under each flower I make a tuck of 1.-1.5 cm, which results in an easy gathering in front.
The flowers are assembled very simply: you gather them in a circle with a needle and thread, and pull them together. Pull the needle through the center and over the edge (from the center around the flower and again into the center, pierce the needle and pull the thread to form petals. This must be done 4 times to get 4 petals. Sew a bead into the middle.
This model fits more closely to the foot. But the sequence of assembly of parts and the sewing technology are the same. The other is just a pattern. I give it to you in size 38-39 on graph paper. Changing the pattern according to the same principle as with the Snow White slippers (see above). Here in the toe part you need to use a very thin padding polyester or other thin insulation.
From the same pattern, lengthening it to about 50 cm (from the floor) and widening the top (at the top 1/2 of the top is about 23 cm), you can make house boots. The length and width of the boot varies according to your wishes. The sewing technology is the same as described above. The boot is assembled by gathering on 4 transverse elastic bands, the elastic bands are sewn at approximately the same distance from each other, the distance depends on the length of the boot. The distance from the last (or first) elastic to the upper edge of the boot is 4 cm.
My boots are made of thin fleece; thinner fabric is generally suitable for such boots, but they will look better made of velor.
Shoes with the unusual name chuni are of original Russian origin. Previously, this was the name given to bast shoes woven from hemp. Nowadays this word refers to high warm slippers for the home made of felt, leather or fur.
We create chuni ourselves
Warm chuni can be purchased in many stores or you can make them yourself. There are 2 options for making chuni with your own hands : sew them from faux or natural fur, or knit them with crochet or knitting needles.
In order to sew yourself comfortable house shoes, you should find a suitable material for this. Excellent chuni come from an old sheepskin coat, fur coat or coat. Real fur is better suited because... In boots made of artificial material, your feet will not feel as comfortable. To make it comfortable for you, it is better to create an individual pattern for each leg. To do this, outline your feet with a pencil, marker or pen on a piece of cardboard. This pattern will allow you to take into account the characteristics of your legs and make the chuni as comfortable as possible. The pattern of the upper part of such shoes is simple. There are many different variations of them.
You can knit chuni with crochet or knitting needles. In this case, we also recommend that you use yarn made from natural fibers. You can knit with columns or openwork knitting, with a variety of patterns and weaves of threads. It's a matter of taste and your imagination.
Working with the sole
Before sewing slippers from old sheepskin coats, you need to take into account that the comfort and ease of use of indoor shoes largely depend on the functionality of the sole. This part of the slippers should be non-slip, warm and moderately hard. Of course, you can make it only from natural fur, but to create an additional thermal insulation layer it is best to use felt. The tops from old felt boots work well . If you don’t have them at home, you can buy thick shoe insoles at the market. Their size is adjusted to the sole, from which the excess allowance will be cut off.
The part must be attached to the workpiece before sewing the slippers; to do this, both elements should be glued together with waterproof glue. The composition should be applied along the edges and in stripes in the middle to leave space for ventilation.
It is recommended to take into account the property of felt to release small fragments of wool. To prevent home-made fur slippers from leaving debris on the floors, the insole should be covered with dark-colored cotton fabric.
How to sew a chuni: a simple pattern
To make chuni, prepare a piece of felt or sheepskin, scissors, a pencil, a measuring tape, a needle with a wide eye and thick threads.
- Measure the width and length of your foot. Determine how tall the chuni will be and create a pattern according to your size.
- Transfer your pattern onto the fabric, adding a centimeter at a time to the seams, and carefully cut out all the details. Remember that the fur must be inside. For the sole, use leather or a leather substitute. Chuni does not have a division into left and right, but if you need it, you can make small protrusions during cutting where the big toes are located separately for each boot.
- Carefully sew all the parts together. If the material is dense, you can sew by hand using decorative stitches.
- If you want the chuni to fit as tightly as possible on your leg, make the lacing at the ankle joint.
How to sew a chuni from an old quilted coat
- Homemade warm chuni can be sewn from an old quilted coat or jacket. Cut out boot parts from unnecessary items.
- The side of each cell is 5 cm for sizes 34-35, 5.5 cm for sizes 36-37, etc.
- Sew the details of the boot with strong threads (you can even use large stitches along the front side over the edge). Sew a heel pad made of thick fabric to the additional insole and place it in the boot.
- To make chuni quilted, you should cut out each piece twice, then spread the wool between them, pin them together and stitch them on a sewing machine, making squares. Absolutely any wool is good for quilting.
Booties are essentially baby chunnies. Give your baby an original gift, sew him warm house boots yourself. Constructing a pattern for baby booties is no different from adult ones, except that tracing a baby’s foot on paper will be much more difficult.
Decoration and decor are the main thing that must be in children's chuns.
A child will really like it if his little house boots have multi-colored pompoms, funny appliqués in the form of animals or bright bows.
- To make a pompom, prepare a template. To do this, draw a circle on cardboard (its size is equal to the desired size of the pompom).
- Draw a small circle in the middle of the large circle. The degree of splendor of the future pompom will depend on its diameter. The larger the second circle you get, the denser the pompom will be.
- For 1 pompom you need 2 identical templates. Cut them out. Connect the 2 templates together and wrap them with thread. Then cut all the threads along the end of your template.
- Pass the thread between the 2 templates and tie tightly. Fluff the pompom and trim.
We are used to buying shoes in a store, or having them made to order. But there are special “cozy” shoes that you sew yourself. You can easily make new items such as slippers, chuni, sock boots and burkas (high or short for home use). A variety of materials and colors can be selected to suit your taste.
Burkas are winter shoes made of felt, felt or suede.
They are indispensable in cold climates.
The lower part - the toe, vamp, heel, as well as the lining along the boot - are often made of leather.
The sole is traditionally rubber or leather.
Reference!
For the first time, mass production of burkas was opened in Tsarist Russia at the end of the 19th century.
During the early USSR, burkas were part of the uniform of senior officers of the Soviet Army.
Burki - felt boots are very fashionable and warm!
Burkas have a long and rich history. They were indispensable during winter hikes and long trips. In the old days, burkas .
Sew yourself some burkas.
You can sew warm, cozy burkas that will warm your chilled feet during the cold season from almost any dark dense fabric.
This could be an old drape coat that has already served its purpose, or even better - a waterproof raincoat; in extreme cases, a sweatshirt will do, if, of course, it is not completely worn out.
The most excellent burkas are made from felt or not too coarse felt, and if you add a leather sole, then they will not be worth anything in the cold season.
To get started, first of all, draw a life-size pattern of your size on paper and cut it out.
Remove the lining from your coat or raincoat.
The product itself does not need to be ripped open, since only its lower part will be used, where the panels are intact, without extra stitches.
Materials and tools
Traditionally for the outside they are used:
- felt;
- drape;
- sheepskin;
- suede leather;
- felt;
- overcoat cloth;
- thick denim fabric;
- chunky knitwear.
As insulation and filler:
- batting, pharmaceutical cotton wool;
- felt;
- padding polyester, holofiber.
Advice!
If you use sheepskin, then there is no need for insulation; it is enough to cut out the parts from the skin with the fur inside.
We will need:
- Main material. You can use an old coat or sheepskin coat that has gone out of use.
- Finished rubber sole. You can buy slippers and cut off the soles. For an indoor version, felt from old thick felt boots is perfect. It is also permissible to place a piece of thick leather or rubber on the sole of the cloak.
- Bias tape or grosgrain tape for edging edges. Knitted strips 3 cm wide are perfect.
- Dense material for the insole, or a ready-made insole. The ideal option is sheepskin.
- Filling: padding polyester, batting, old coat. If you want to sew a warm option for a cold winter, then make double burkas with insulation.
Advice!
The inner layer of the buroks can be made removable by sewing thin liners one pattern at a time. For convenience, sew Velcro tape onto the liners and main parts.
- Strong threads, preferably nylon.
- Velcro tape (Velcro) connects the burkas to the liner.
The material used is traditionally light: white, beige, gray, coffee. Children's ones come in bright colors.
Necessary tools and equipment:
- tailor's (furrier's) knife;
- ruler;
- tape measure;
- shoe or rubber glue.
How much time and expense does it take to sew felt boots?
If you have a ready-made pattern, it will take one day to sew the finished product. Creating a pattern takes no more than an hour if all the measurements are at hand. If you work only a couple of hours a day, the maximum it will take to sew is three days.
The difficulty level of the work is average. Sewing machine skills required. You can learn how to sew felt boots in a day if you wish.
Costs may vary depending on materials. If you use old things, the savings are significant. I don’t see the point in buying new fabrics for sewing felt boots. An old coat, shirts for lining, diapers, an old blanket or other worn items will do. You can buy an old coat at a second-hand store for pennies, rip it open and cut it into burkas. There are also plenty of fleece items for humanitarian aid. I’ll tell you a secret that my teacher uses an old mattress for insulation. The main thing is that the cotton wool in it is in a layer and not in lumps, then it will be convenient to sew.
Taking measurements
To create a pattern we will need the following measurements:
- Foot length.
- Foot width. We measure along the contour of the foot outlined on paper. If you are not using a ready-made sole, it is better to take several measurements. If you have special features of the foot – a protruding bone, a non-standard shape.
- Boot height. Determined from the floor level to the expected height of the product.
- Foot circumference. There are several options, if you need the most comfortable boots, then we use all three measurements. It is also advisable to measure at what distance from each other you laid the measuring tape.
Patterns
Model 1 - the simplest stocking-type burka-boots
They consist of only three parts, the left and right halves of the boots, as well as the sole. They are cut out freely, since there is no separate front part.
To create a similar pattern, you can use a large wool sock:
- Circle it and compare it with the dimensions obtained from measurements. The most important thing here is not to make the workpiece very small.
- To pattern the sole, outline the foot on a piece of paper, add 1-2 cm for a loose fit.
- If you are making double insulated burkas, then the pattern of the liner should be slightly, 0.5 cm, smaller in all respects than the pattern of the main product.
- When cutting the left and right halves, as well as the sole, do not forget to make these parts mirrored.
- The sole can also be made multi-layered, with insulation.
- In this model, we make the sole from the main material, which can be duplicated with ready-made rubber if desired.
Cutting with scissors
Progress:
- We place the parts on the fabric, chalk it, if we cut it from fabric, then do not forget about the seam allowances.
Important!
We do not allow seam allowances for items made from sheepskin, other fur, or natural leather.
- Cut with scissors or a knife.
- Similarly, we cut out parts from insulation and lining material.
- We fold the blanks face to face and secure them with pins.
- We stitch it.
- Apply and secure the sole with pins.
- Sew on the sole.
- We turn the bootleg outward, that is, on the wrong side in our case.
- We sew the bend.
- Turn it inside out.
- We glue or sew on an additional rough sole.
- We decorate.
- Let's try it on.
Short burkas with insulation
How to hem the sole of felt boots correctly
The curves are stunning when it comes to the sole. The sole itself can be sewn from the same base material in several layers for density. The outer layer can be made of leather or leatherette to protect the shoes from moisture. The edges of the sole are edged with a strip of fabric. See how this is done using the example of sewing slippers.
To ensure that the sole is where it is needed and does not peel off in different directions, it needs to be basted in four places. Connect the toe of the felt boot and the soles, heel and sides. Then manually, using an awl or a thick needle, sew the sole in a circle.
Now you know how to sew felt boots with your own hands. I hope that the article was useful to you.