Do-it-yourself multifunctional jig for dowel holes

Very often, when repairing furniture or assembling it, you need to accurately drill holes for the firmmat, dowel and other fasteners. If you drill a sheet of chipboard, it is almost impossible to do this with a simple drill, since the hole breaks and it is not always possible to make a right angle. Therefore, for such work you must have a tool called a conductor.

Types of dowels

There are many types of fasteners, but they are conventionally divided into groups according to material and shape. Let's consider this issue in more detail.

Material of manufacture

Two types are actively used:

1. Wood. Most experts strongly recommend using a wooden tenon when constructing wooden structures. The main advantages when choosing such fasteners are given:
   Even drying. The beam and dowel should be approximately the same humidity. This will allow the shrinkage process to go through with virtually no visible changes;
2. Not affected by temperature changes. The tree practically does not change its linear dimensions at different temperatures, so the fastening element will always be in place;
3. No rust. Metal rusts over time, which leads to rotting of wooden surfaces in contact with it;
4. There is no condensation. With a sharp change in temperature, moisture forms on steel, which is completely useless inside a load-bearing wall.
5. The dowel fuses with the wall. After a certain time, the house will become monolithic, the wooden surfaces will be soldered together.
6. Metal. This option also applies to a budget fastening method; waste materials (pipes, fittings) are often used. Although experts prefer the previous method, the metal dowel has its advantages:
   The top layers of wood are protected from torsion;
7. Durability of the structure.

Form

There are also several main forms:

1. Round section. Taking into account the fact that the holes for fastening in the log are made with a drill, the round dowel will provide the maximum contact area, guaranteeing the reliability and durability of the structure;
2. Square. It is easier to make such an element; it also costs less. But that's where the positives end. When entering the hole, the edges of the tenon are deformed, and the total contact area remains minimal. Building a house this way is dangerous;
3. Narrow rectangle. The easiest option to manufacture. A board of a certain thickness is taken and cut into rectangles. The only advantage is the very small thickness. Suitable for narrow timber, but installation is extremely difficult.

DIY furniture jig: drawings with dimensions to help

The principle of this equipment:

1. Angular housing. It is superimposed on the planes of the parts, which will then be connected to each other.
2. Guide bushings. The drill will go through them.
3. Clamping devices. They fix the conductor and are made from the end part.

Designing your own jig should be based on the fact that with the help of this equipment it is possible to do most of the work performed related to various types of fasteners.

Important! If you need a universal assistant - this applies to professional furniture makers, then it would be better to purchase industrial equipment that is made more accurately and with high quality. It is this kind of device that will be preferable and will quickly pay for itself, especially if you also take into account the fact that this device often comes with many different templates, stops and other little things that are also necessary in the work. They are much cheaper than buying at retail.

And yet this device, if necessary, can be made with your own hands.

Such equipment may not be needed very often in any given industry, and even more so for a home craftsman. So for many users it will be much more profitable to do it themselves.

If the design of such remains relevant, then you need to prepare materials for the manufacture of a homemade conductor for drilling for confirmation:

• Corner. Your choice should be made on the unequal type of this rental - its possibilities are wider. The corner shelf must be chosen with the greatest thickness, which can reach up to 8 mm. This is quite justified, since then it is possible to insert guide bushings with an outer diameter of up to 6 mm. Based on this, you can use drills from 3.5 to 4 mm. Even if that diameter is not enough, then the material is drilled out with a large drill, without using any other devices.
• Guide bushings. Here, stainless steel pipes will be preferable, which are selected primarily by internal diameter. Example: a 6×1.5 pipe is suitable for a drill no larger than 2.7 in diameter. Explanation: its internal hole will be 3 mm, and a small gap along the entire internal diameter is taken into account due to thermal expansion of the material. The length of the sleeve is the depth of the hole in the corner, multiplied by two or more. The fit of the bushings is either transitional, or with an interference fit, or according to the shaft system. The latter is the most appropriate.

Read also: Stainless steel cutters

Instead of pipes, of course, you can use ready-made bushings used in wire drawing machines - these are available, for example, in mechanical engineering. Such parts (even used ones) come in handy: they are made of alloy steel and have an almost unlimited service life.

Choosing a mounting method

• Fixation using self-tapping screws. They are screwed into the part, which prevents the device from moving due to friction. This is convenient because these marks will be needed for subsequent drilling of other holes.
• Spring stop. It will securely fix the jig to the part. For such a stop, a flat spring with an appropriate clamping force is suitable.
• External clamps. Rubber pads must be placed under them. Corrugated rubber is ideal as a material. This, of course, slightly increases the weight of the equipment, and the elasticity of the pads can negatively affect the perpendicularity of the bushings. To prevent this from happening, the drill is inserted into the sleeve to mark the hole, and only then the clamps are clamped.

Plugs and heels for chair legs using improvised materials

In order to avoid damage to the floor in the kitchen or in another room, when using wooden chairs, you should insulate those parts that can do this, that is, the legs. To do this, you can go to the store and buy special heels, or you can save money and make them yourself. The following materials are suitable for making heels for table legs:

1. an old carpet, parts of it can be cut out to the desired size and glued to the legs;
2. rubber, also cut out to the required size and secured with nails or glue;
3. felt insoles;
4. linoleum;
5. leather.

You can also make plugs for the legs; the most common material for their manufacture is wine corks.

When working with wood, most craftsmen have long been making various tools on their own; for their manufacture it is possible to use improvised means. Thus, you can save a lot of money on your family budget.

Materials and tools

To manufacture a device, you must first decide on the tasks that it will perform. Accordingly, the necessary material is selected from which the furniture template will be made with your own hands. The most durable, reliable and “long-lasting” is considered to be a metal conductor. To create a furniture jig for drilling with your own hands, it is permissible to use wood, plywood, textolite, and plexiglass. This is due to lower labor costs and cheaper materials. All this is important, especially if you are going to make several different templates yourself.

To make a conductor, a piece of reinforcement, a block or a plate is suitable - something that can probably be found in any garage or home workshop. To make a simple marking device, you can take a regular school ruler - wooden, plastic or metal.

Of decisive importance in the manufacture of the jig is the accurate calculation of the location of the holes on the workpiece. You can take a ready-made diagram or make it yourself. The latter option is preferable, since the dimensions in the drawings must correspond to the tasks being solved.

Tools you will need:

• drill;
• grinder or jigsaw;
• a set of locksmith tools;
• clamps;
• vice.

When manufacturing a jig, you will need perfectly accurate drilling of guide holes and hardening of the finished device

Drawing of a homemade conductor for drilling holes for confirmations

Application

These products have been used for a long time and are widely used in metalworking. Thus, many machines are equipped with conductors. The need for templates for dowels in the woodworking industry is due to the prevalence of closed furniture joints. In this industry, the devices in question are used both in mass production and during assembly. In the latter case, furniture jigs are used to drill holes for dowels.

In addition to the above-mentioned areas, such devices are in demand in construction, mechanical engineering, and household work.

The scope of application is determined by the type of conductor. Thus, overhead devices are used for processing flat parts, chipboard and MDF boards. Corner ones are applicable both for furniture and for chipboard and MDF boards. Rotary products are designed for making holes in cylindrical parts. Universal models are suitable for small-scale furniture production. Tilting options are designed for simultaneous processing in several planes. Clip-on and sliding jigs are most suitable for home use. In addition, the latter are incompatible with single-spindle machines.

Rigid models are designed for making holes in objects with an uneven surface, such as pipes. In this case, they are secured using a clamp, but this method is not suitable for furniture, since deformation of the surface is possible.

The use of conductors simplifies and speeds up the work due to the fact that it eliminates the need for manual measurements and calculations.

Types: choose the one you need

Invoices. They do not require fixation before being used for their intended purpose. Structurally simple, mobile, but they need to be held with a hand free from the drill, since often the equipment is not secured in a special device, which is not very convenient. Considering the simplicity of the design, making it yourself is quite simple. Used when drilling chipboard and MDF.

Jigs for drilling holes at an angle. The design is easy to imagine, since the name speaks for itself. Such equipment can also be an overhead one. In the production of high-quality furniture, there is also drilling at an angle, which is not the simplest operation in the production process - this requires skill. Although in this case, sometimes the required angle is violated, as a result the assembly will not be of such high quality and the appearance of the furniture will suffer, especially if it is not made of chipboard, but of wood - here you can’t fill in an ugly drill. Equipment of the required design completely eliminates unnecessary problems.

Rotary conductors. They have folding brackets, and this allows drilling on two adjacent planes.

Sliding gearboxes. With their help, you can drill several holes without reinstallation. To work with such equipment, the necessary skills are still required.

Classification of tools

Before you buy a ready-made conductor or make it yourself, you need to decide what problems you will solve with its help and only then you need to select the appropriate option in terms of design and functions.

There are a number of categories of devices that differ in their design and functional features. Here are some of them:

• overhead - such devices are applied to a part that can be processed, then it is attached to it or simply fixed manually. With their help, holes are made in various flat parts, MDF boards or chipboard;
• rotary - these templates are used when processing cylindrical parts. They are equipped with horizontal and vertical axes of rotation, so holes can be made at different angles;
• universal - such devices are suitable for small serial furniture manufacturers, where sometimes quick readjustment of the equipment used is required, they have all the functions necessary for this;
• tiltable - used when the technological procedure is carried out in several planes at once;
• sliding - such conductors do not need to be attached. Simply attach them to the surface area of ​​the workpiece where you want to make a hole;
• fixed - they are more convenient to use, but they limit freedom of action, which is very critical when working with machines where there is only one spindle.

Selecting a model for production

Conductors of industrial production can be highly specialized and universal. Templates of the first type are used to perform certain operations on typical parts. Universal devices are suitable for working with different materials and objects of various configurations.

Based on design features and functionality, conductors are divided into the following types:

• overhead - when used, they are applied to the surface in the desired area, fixed with clamps or held by hand. Used for drilling holes in flat parts;
• rotary - the working part moves in both vertical and horizontal planes. Used when working with elements of complex geometric shapes and to create holes, the axis of which must be located at an angle;
• tipping - used to create holes in perpendicular planes.

A marking jig is used to mark the locations for drilling holes. It is much thinner and lighter.

The conductor device can be specially created for a certain type of fastener: dowels, confirmations, screws, corners. There are devices to simplify the process of installing fittings.

According to the type of fixation, furniture jigs can be sliding or fixed. The former can be moved freely over the surface if necessary, while the latter are rigidly fixed in the right place. The presence of an adjustment mechanism will help to combine the device with different types of workpieces.

For large furniture manufacturers, the availability of a variety of additional accessories plays a decisive role, since they significantly reduce time costs. In this case, the cost of the tools does not matter much. A completely different approach to purchasing the necessary equipment from those who have a small furniture production facility or from independent craftsmen who produce certain types of furniture. In this case, making furniture templates with your own hands turns out to be much cheaper and more practical. The choice of the necessary options and the complexity of the device are determined not only by production needs, but also by the skill and experience of furniture manufacturers.

Overhead

Turning

Universal

Eccentric coupler

An eccentric coupler is often used in the factory production of furniture. The reason for this is the difficulty of drilling holes. An eccentric coupler consists of two parts: a pin and an eccentric. The pin is installed in one part, and the eccentric in another.

Increase

Fig.7.

The main advantage of this type of fastener is that this fastener is hidden and therefore does not spoil the appearance of the furniture. In addition, this type of fastener, unlike confirmat, allows you to repeatedly assemble and disassemble furniture, which is important, for example, when moving. Also, using an eccentric coupler, you can connect parts at different angles.

When making furniture yourself, it is not often used due to the difficulty of drilling holes and the inability to correct the joint during assembly. The main difficulty in drilling holes lies in the hole for the eccentric. This hole is not through and requires the use of a special drill - a Forstner drill.

Increase

Fig.8.

Increase

Fig.9.

Increase

Fig. 10.

In this case, the sampling depth is about 12 mm, and the thickness of the chipboard is 16 mm. The remaining wall thickness is only 4 mm. There is a risk of drilling more than necessary, thereby damaging the piece of furniture. Therefore, when drilling holes for an eccentric tie, it is necessary to use drilling depth limiters.

This tie is a screw and nut with which two sections of furniture are pulled together, for example, two cabinets. To tie cabinets, 2 - 4 intersectional ties are used. Depending on the thickness of the chipboard, there are intersection screeds of various sizes.

Increase

Fig. 12.

Considering that the intersection screed is used to tie cabinets, and the cabinets, in turn, are made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm, an intersection screed with a length of 32 mm is most often used. However, there are ties up to 50 mm long, which are used to tighten parts of greater thickness.

Increase

Fig. 13.

Jig for drilling holes

A drilling jig, as a rule, is a bar (plate) with holes and bushings (sleeves). Using a jig it is much easier, for example, to drill pipes.

As for furniture production, they are also used here, although relatively recently.

With the help of such equipment, the manufacturer is relieved of the following problems:

• Marking.
• Punching (point depressions in the material for a drill).
• Drilling while maintaining perpendicularity.

The latter is especially difficult to achieve, since it requires serious skills acquired only over the years.

Some operations, for example, drilling for dowels (short wooden rods designed for hidden joining of parts), require very precise markings, and no less accurate drilling at an angle of 90°.

With such a device as a conductor, these tasks are solved easily and simply.

We carry out calculations

Depending on the chosen fastening technology, it is possible to determine with sufficient accuracy the number of dowels and calculate their correct characteristics.

Deciding on the sizes

There are many scientific works that will help determine the diameter of the dowel. But in the professional environment of carpenters and builders, certain rules have already been formed:

• for timber with a thickness of 20 centimeters or less, a dowel with a diameter of 25 millimeters is used;
• a thicker beam is fastened with a tenon measuring 3 centimeters;
• timber thicker than 0.2 meters can be fastened with a 2.5 cm dowel, but subject to the step being reduced to a meter.

Counting the quantity

Even a small sauna will require quite a large number of spikes that need to be purchased or made, which can take a long time. Therefore, it is better to know the number of fasteners in advance.

There are fastening rules:

• the first dowel is inserted at a distance of 20 to 70 centimeters to the corner;
• the step is from one and a half to 2 meters;
• It is necessary to fasten two adjacent logs in height.

Knowing these tricks, the height of the structure, the diameter of the timber, you can easily calculate the number of dowels needed for construction.

Spikes for fixing timber: which ones to choose and why?

The most popular are dowels made from hard wood. The most durable options are spikes made of oak or birch. It is not possible to deform, bend, or break them. However, there is one condition. They must be properly secured. What are their shape and sizes? The optimal solution is details with rounded contours. Their length should not exceed 25 mm. Wooden dowels must be smooth and even not only at the point of installation, but over the entire surface. It is these nails that guarantee the longest possible service life.

Installing dowels in timber is a mandatory rule for timber and log structures. Birch thorns are the most common option. Such dowels cannot become an analogue of self-tapping screws or primitive nails. If they are used, it is impossible to guarantee the stability and reliability of the structure. It is also worth abandoning the use of reinforcement. Metal versions can lead to a number of negative consequences, which is explained by the direct interaction of materials with different thermal conductivity parameters. What can the use of metal dowels lead to? It could be:

• condensation formation;
• coating the surface of the spikes with rust;
• rotting of the entire layer of wood.

DIY furniture conductors and templates

How conductors are made is now clear, as is their necessity for furniture production.

Not only conductors, but also templates are needed in furniture production. The simplest template will sometimes save a lot of time and allow drilling to be no less accurate than a jig.

For example, the simplest metal prefabricated template, consisting of two sheet blanks measuring 130x70 mm and a steel square with a cross-section of 20 mm. They are connected to each other by screws at the top of the structure - this is how they are attached to the square. The square is drilled for the bushings, where the latter are pressed. Such a device for drilling holes in the end of a part made of chipboard will make it possible to drill without thinking about marking and perpendicular drilling. And the price of this equipment is below any idea of ​​savings.

Instead of metal, you can and should use those materials that are inexpensive and easy to process.

• Plywood.
• Textolite or fiberglass - preferably thick.
• Hardwood.
• Hardboard or its equivalent.

It must be borne in mind that these materials are short-lived, and so that the devices do not have to be made every day, it is quite reasonable to press metal tubes into them.

In conclusion, it is worth summing up what has been said. Making a conductor or template yourself or buying it in a store is a matter for everyone individually. If a home craftsman needs to make some furniture in a single copy and there is material for a conductor, as well as the possibility of making it, you can use this. It is possible that such equipment will never be useful to the master again.

But if even a small furniture workshop is engaged in the production of mass-produced furniture, and it employs enough people, it is probably easier to purchase something ready-made, especially since they will need these indispensable assistants to the craftsmen in several copies.

In the latter case, it makes sense to purchase more expensive, accurate and wear-resistant jigs instead of making homemade ones, which are less accurate and durable.

Builder mistakes: typical and gross

As Alexey Markin notes, the most common mistake when making a log house from chopped logs is the small areas of contact between log and log (small width of the inter-crown groove). The thermal characteristics of such a house will be low. The head of the Domostroy-SK enterprise, Oleg Valuev, adds that in some cases the crowns may not be adjacent to each other at all (photo 1). Huge cracks will have to be caulked regularly, which will require considerable additional costs. However, the appearance and thermal characteristics of the house cannot be radically improved.

Photo No. 2

– The log house cannot sit properly due to incorrectly placed racks.

It happens that builders build a house in such a way that it simply cannot sit down.

As Oleg Valuev explains, if you plan to make a veranda under the roof, then between the upper end of the post and the upper crown you need to install a special jack for shrinkage (photo 3). This will allow the log to sit evenly. Instead of a jack, you can put several planks that will need to be knocked out periodically. By the way, shrinkage jacks are clearly visible in the first illustration (Fig. 1) to ours.

Photo No. 3

– Jack for shrinkage (photo by Domostroy-SK).

Another mistake that prevents the shrinkage of a log house is an attempt to fasten adjacent crowns with nails. The log lies unevenly on the nail head, and an inter-crown gap appears. Due to a loose fit, the log may begin to “spin” during the drying process.

The problem of poor-quality waterproofing of the lower crown of a log house has somewhat lost its relevance. As a rule, the installation team performs this operation efficiently

However, the customer should pay attention to how the foundation and wooden walls are connected. If the foundation is strip or grillage, then the surface of the strip should be leveled, and between the foundation and the lower crown there should be 2-3 layers of roofing material, or a waterproofing layer of similar effectiveness

However, excess moisture can enter the wood not only through the foundation. If you lay floors and hang ceilings in a house before the frame has settled and dried, this will impede air circulation and lead to “steaming” of the house - mold or mildew may appear on the internal walls.

The head of the Domostroy-SK enterprise, Oleg Valuev, notes that in the washing room there is also no need to make baseboards on the floor. Moisture collects under them and the process of rotting also begins.

Photo No. 4

– Mold on unventilated wooden structures.

Types of connection

When connecting wooden parts, you need to remember an important point - a thin part is always attached to a thick one, but not vice versa.

According to the relative arrangement of the elements, the following methods of connecting wooden parts are distinguished:

• extension - increasing the height of a part;
• splicing - elongation of the workpiece;
• consolidation—increasing the element’s width;
• knitting - joining at an angle.

The most commonly used methods for joining wooden parts in furniture making are:

• gluing;
• "dovetail";
• end-to-end;
• grooved;
• overlap;
• deaf on spikes;
• through tenon.

Let's look at the technologies of some connections in more detail.

Features of application in the furniture industry

Conductors and templates are needed when assembling furniture. These things will prevent you from having a common problem that occurs during drilling—the drill hitting the part at the wrong angle. Correcting such an error will take an extremely long time, in some cases it will even be impossible.

A jig for making holes will not only allow you to correctly orient the working tool, but will also prevent it from straying from the desired trajectory.

In the furniture industry, jigs and templates are used in the following cases:

• in mass production;
• when assembling structures, when it is necessary to make holes for fasteners in the parts being connected. In this case, a jig for drilling holes for dowels or confirmat is suitable;
• a jig for drilling holes at an angle is used both in such cases and when working with thin boards, for example, MDF or chipboard.

When using such a device, the assembly process will be much easier and faster; you will be able to make the necessary holes regardless of how far they should be located from the edge of the part and how wide it is.

When assembling furniture yourself, you often have to connect parts end-to-end using dowels. Holes for dowels are best made using a special jig. The peculiarity of dowels is that despite the fact that such fasteners, although outdated, are still relevant in furniture production.

The difficulty in their use lies in the fact that the axes of the holes that are made in the parts when connecting must have a right angle with each other. Accordingly, they must be placed strictly perpendicular to each other. It is difficult to do this without a special device. Therefore, if you want to achieve high quality performance, it is recommended to buy a dowel jig.

Benefits of use

Essentially, such a jig acts as a template for making holes so that they are made as accurately as possible. They can be used for those holes whose axis is perpendicular to the surface of the workpiece, as well as for working at an angle.

This tool is an excellent alternative to sketches and manual measurements. You can place the drill strictly at the desired angle in relation to the workpiece and will not allow any deviation. The result will be especially noticeable when it comes to making deep holes.

If you use such a high-quality device for working with chipboard, then it should have the following characteristics:

• facilitate quick assembly of furniture without the need to use complex tools;
• make it possible to make several holes simultaneously without manual marking;
• significantly improve the quality of work with the drill.

Conductors are made from different materials; there are models based on plastic or organic glass. However, the best option is considered to be made of steel , which has such advantages as:

• minimal likelihood of deformation;
• the drill is directed as clearly as possible;
• no heating during operation.

Very often, overhead models based on lightweight materials that are easy to manipulate are used as furniture jigs. Many people use factory or homemade tools.

And the most qualified and experienced craftsmen no longer use a jig, since they can easily make a hole in structures on their own as accurately as possible. But not everyone can do this.

The key advantage of such a device is that the work can be performed as accurately and efficiently as possible, even by a person who does not have the proper experience. You don't have to do markings and complex preliminary calculations. You will save a lot of time and produce furniture much faster.

Workflow Description

Let's consider the basic rules for carrying out work; they are quite simple, so almost anyone can cope with them, the most important thing is to do everything carefully and use high-quality materials and tools.

Making dowels

Of course, you can buy ready-made elements, but their price is quite high, and the DIY process is not very difficult.

The work is done as follows:

When making dowels, neatness and attractiveness are not important, what is important is accuracy and compliance of the elements with the holes

• First, you need to choose a manufacturing method; if you have at least a simple lathe, then you can make round versions that are no different from the ready-made ones that are sold in the retail chain. If there is no equipment, then you can get by with rectangular elements, there won’t be much difference anyway;
• The length of the blanks should be 2.3 times the thickness of the timber. This is due to the fact that the correct location involves an option in which each fastening element passes through three beams, and in the upper and lower crown it should be located approximately 2/3 of their thickness. As noted above, the dowel must be recessed by at least 20 mm so that deformation does not occur when the structure moves;

This diagram clearly shows all the basic rules for fixing crowns; this option has been used by professional carpenters for more than two centuries

Advice! You can simplify the manufacturing work by purchasing a block of the required size; its cost is low, but you just need to round the corners a little - and the fasteners will be ready.

• You don’t have to cut the elements right away, but do it as you work, it all depends on which option is preferable for you.

Fastening the timber

It is important to carry out the work correctly, since this determines how securely the structure will be fixed; the list of measures is as follows:

• First you need to choose a high-quality drill for dowels for timber. Too weak options are often used, so cases when a power tool burns out while drilling are not uncommon. Low-speed modifications with a three-stage gearbox with a power of 1300 watts or more are best suited; they do the job well, as they are designed for high loads;

Choose modifications with a handle on top, it will be much more convenient for you to carry out work on drilling timber

• As for the drill, select a screw version of the required length; it is better not to save money and purchase a product from a well-known brand, since cheap analogs are usually not durable and can fail almost on the first hole. The length depends on how thick your timber is, and the diameter varies depending on the width of the walls; most often, products from 20 to 30 mm are used;

Drills with a diameter of 30 mm are among the most popular

• Drilling is carried out starting from the third row, and it is very important to maintain the vertical position of the equipment when working, because the dowel will serve as a guide, and if it is located at an angle, the surface may bend over time. The work should be entrusted to a physically strong person, as the drill sometimes jams and can turn the tool, which is unsafe when working at height;

When working, you need to hold the drill very tightly

• Remember a simple rule - the hole should be 1-2 mm larger than the size of the dowel, this will ensure its sufficiently tight location, and the fastening will not interfere with the shrinkage of the structure. That is, with a drill diameter of 30 mm, the dowel should be 28-29 mm;
• The distance from the edge of the beam must be at least 300 mm, the distance between the attachment points is from one and a half to two meters. Sometimes you can increase the number of dowels by placing them in places that may become deformed;
• Driving in the dowels is done using a heavy hammer or sledgehammer weighing 2-3 kg; in order to drown the elements, stock up on a spacer in advance.

As you can see, the instructions for carrying out the work are not complicated; it is important to have a reliable tool on hand and use fasteners of the right size.

Homemade jig for connecting with an oblique screw. Baking an analogue of the Kreg Jig

Hello! I'll tell you how I made my own analogue of the Kreg Jig for connecting with an oblique screw. Once upon a time, for my homemade projects, I made a jig for connecting with an oblique screw.

It doesn't look like much, but it does its job perfectly. To make it, you needed a piece of tubing and a hot glue gun. And so I decided to slightly modernize my conductor and made a new one. The materials and functionality have remained virtually unchanged, but the appearance has improved significantly. Meet us! Jig for an oblique screw, version 2.0.

Compared to the old conductor

To make it I needed: - Steel tube. — Hot-melt adhesive rods. — Metal corners. — Aluminum tape.

For the tube I used a metal corner.

Inner diameter 9.1 mm.

I ordered the drill from China. Drill diameter 8.9 mm.

I saw off the excess from the corner. I cut the tube at an angle of 75 degrees.

It turned out to be 2 tubes.

I sanded it a little with sandpaper and cleaned up the edges of the tube.

I'm starting to make the mold for filling. To do this, I took 2 metal corners

The resulting form was covered with aluminum tape.

The next step is to cut the sticks for the glue gun. I put them in the form.

I take another piece of aluminum tape and glue the shape onto it. When the glue melts, it will prevent it from leaking out of the mold.

I take an old frying pan, place the mold in it and add pieces of hot glue. You don’t need to put too much in at once, because... There may be too much glue and it will start to leak out of the mold.

I set it to bake. Temperature 200 degrees. Add salt and sugar to taste) When the first batch melts, add more glue. I added it 2 times in total.

When all the glue had melted, I removed air bubbles with a toothpick.

The conductor is ready. I left it in the oven so that it cooled evenly.

The glue has hardened and it’s time to check the conductor in action.

I fix it with a clamp and drill.

It turned out pretty good. The inlet and outlet holes turned out to be at the same level.

The connection turned out smooth and strong. I couldn't break it with my hands.

To summarize, I will say that the conductor turned out to be a worker. It does its job no worse than the original. And if you compare their prices, then my conductor is a clear favorite. I spent about $10, the original costs $50. I shared the idea, but whether to make such a conductor or not, I leave the choice up to you.

That's all. See you again!

Marking drilling locations

In order to perfectly fasten two parts, it is necessary to mark the places of their fastenings as accurately as possible.

On the part that will be applied to the end (the one on which there will be a through hole), you need to make two measurements - along the length (usually 5-10 cm) and from the edge - exactly 8 mm (this is if the thickness of the plate is 16 mm).

On a part that lies perpendicular, mark the drilling point at the end. Here you need to maintain the same distance in length (5-10 cm from the beginning), and in width - strictly in the center (8 mm from the edge).

Markings must be done as accurately as possible, especially along the length, because If the markings are incorrect, your parts may have extra gaps or protrusions when joined.

It is better to make a through hole in the first part, attach it to the second - and immediately use a drill to mark the drilling location at the end of the second part. And then, separately, calmly drill the hole.

Device for drilling holes for dowels and confirmats

Despite the fact that today a lot of new accessories have appeared in the furniture industry, the good old dowel is still used. This is explained by the fact that the connections are not visible through this piece of fittings, and this is especially valuable in the production of furniture made from natural wood.

As already mentioned, drilling for dowels creates many problems for furniture makers, especially those who are not sufficiently qualified.

In order for the furniture planes to be perfectly aligned, precise markings are necessary, and this equipment allows you to speed up the work and bring the quality to the desired level.

Working with confirmats - special furniture screws - although less troublesome, also requires certain skills. And considering how many holes need to be marked and drilled before screwing the confirmation into one piece of furniture, such a device will significantly speed up the work, and its quality too.

The simplest devices

1. The conductor is two-slider. It allows you to drill holes in two adjacent (mating) parts. The device is constructed of two rulers, which serve as guides and are connected to a mounting strip. The holes made in it make it possible to install the strip on parts of different widths. Housings moved along rulers (replaceable) have a set of guide bushings, where the distances between them are different. The conductor is fixed by means of a connecting strip, and on the opposite side there is a travel limiter, pressed by a thumbscrew.
2. The conductor is multi-position. Fastened with clamps. The design allows for vertical drilling. It is made of thick-walled aluminum angle. Since the device is quite long, it is equipped with an intermediate fastening in the center of the structure. The thick wall of the angle was used very successfully, which cannot be overestimated at the moment of placing the device on the surface of the part and when reinstalling the jig to 90°. The selection of the distance between the bushings is carried out according to the most common values ​​​​provided for installing dowels or confirmations.

Procedure for working with a conductor:

• The device is fixed on the workpiece.
• The sleeve is inserted into the hole.
• Drill through the sleeve.

Making a tap for wood carving with your own hands

To cut carvings in wood, you may need a wood tap; this tool will most likely not be cheap, and it can be quite difficult to find. But don’t be upset, because such a part is quite easy to make yourself. To do this you will need:

• angle grinding machine;
• sharpening machine;
• drill;
• Next, you need to select a bolt or screw that will have the required thread.

When using a bolt, first cut off the hex head, then use a sharpening machine to make a small part for entry, this is done by rotating it by hand or by securing the end in a drill. Next, you will need to grind out 3-4 grooves and clean the threads from any debris that got into it during grinding; this can be done with a nut.

Secure the tap in the chuck and, while the drill is running, make sure that it rotates smoothly along the axis. I did not notice any unevenness left on the chuck from the threads. But if you want to avoid possible damage, grind off the threads at the clamping point.

wood carving tap

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other fastening element, the dowel has a number of positive aspects, as well as disadvantages.

Advantages:

1. The spike provides reliable grip and prevents the crown from sagging;
2. Provides long-term reliability under bending loads, which nails and bolts cannot boast of;
3. Promotes uniform shrinkage of the house. The fastening element moves freely along a vertical plane, preventing horizontal deformations;
4. The wooden product is not subject to the formation of moisture and corrosion, excluding the process of rotting;
5. Extremely cheap. Even buying ready-made dowels won’t put a big dent in your pocket, allowing you to minimize your budget.

But there are also disadvantages:

1. Difficult to install. Absolute vertical position, ideal selection of diameter, implies the presence of decent construction skills;
2. Serious quality requirements. The presence of knots or heterogeneity of the material can lead to disastrous consequences;
3. Excessive force when driving often leads to cracks in the timber. After which it needs to be changed.

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