We make a handler and knives for it with our own hands

How to make a gateway for gold mining with your own hands

This article was born in connection with the increased interest in gold mining. I often get asked questions about how to get gold from streams and rivers? How to make a gateway for gold mining with your own hands? Where and what kind of gateway should I buy? How to make a passage with your own hands?

In this article I will tell you how to make a gateway with your own hands. The equipment is so simple that anyone can make it in a couple of hours at home and in many respects it will be better than a purchased American aluminum gateway, the cost of which in Russia reaches 17,000 rubles.

I’ll tell you how to properly make a gold-catching sluice, a mini device for gold mining, popularly called a prodnushka. This is what the prospectors of Siberia and the Urals call it, the name that came to us from our grandfathers and great-grandfathers is prodnushka.

A passage (sluice) is a box made of three boards, at the bottom of which a mat is laid and a stencil (riffle) is placed. A walk-through made of wood is not only simpler and cheaper than one made of aluminum, but most importantly, if something happens, you won’t mind throwing it away. If you use dry and not thick wood, then the weight will be no more than that of an aluminum analogue, and with a skillful approach, even less. In addition, wooden boards in your car or backpack will not raise questions from strangers; no one will ask what kind of boards they are or ask unnecessary questions. You never know what purpose you need these boards for in the forest.

To make a passage (sluice) for gold mining, the main thing is to follow the basic simple rules in its manufacture, and you will be a more successful gold miner than other prospectors with short purchased sluices.

The longer the hole, the more gold you will catch. Foreign aluminum sluices have a maximum length of 1.5 meters; this is not enough to catch fine gold and disintegrate poorly washed sands or loams. The length of foreign locks is 1.5 meters due to legislation that limits the length of the lock, so that amateur tourists do not wash out all the gold on the stream and leave it to others. For example, in America, Australia, and New Zealand, gold mining is a hobby, like picking mushrooms or fishing in our country.

The width of the sluice depends on the amount of rock supplied; for bucket feeding, a width of 20-25 cm is sufficient.

To make a long and easy-to-carry passage, use a cascade of gateways, for example, install two gateways of 1.5 meters in series, for a total of 3 meters. This is sufficient to trap fine gold and disintegrate the rock.

If the soil is clayey and does not have time to be washed through the passage, you need to use other equipment called butara. I will talk about it in the following articles or videos on my channel www.youtube.com/user/RudolfKavchik

Installation of riffles or as they are also called stencils.

The stencil is the most important part of the pass-through. Behind them, a turbulence of the water flow and its rarefaction occurs. This creates conditions for the accumulation of the heavy fraction behind the riffle plates and the demolition of light unnecessary material. The angle of inclination of the riffle plates depends on the amount of water supplied to the passage and can be from 45 to 78 degrees. The greater the depth of the flow and the speed of the flow of water supplied to the sluice, the greater the angle of inclination of the riffles. The distance between the riffles is 5-7 cm. The shape of the riffles can be straight or with slightly curved edges in the direction of flow.

If the water flow is weak, then riffles are not used. The rock is sifted through a sieve before being fed to the mini device. See the chapter on material screening below.

The next chapter is about a gold catching mat and what to make a gold catching mat from. How to install a passage, sieve and screen for gold-bearing rock. From the history of gold mining - is there a need for a mat on the sluice?

Device

A bead expander for working with tires of trucks, tractors, special vehicles and other vehicles consists of several main components, listed below:
The operating principle of a bead expander is based on holding the tire on a moving platform in a fixed position. Adjustable grips move its sides to the side, providing free and easy access to the damaged area, thereby fixing it on the carriage.

The tire can rotate as needed in the horizontal and vertical plane, simplifying inspection and repair work. Some bead extenders may be equipped with a special lamp on a flexible arm, which makes it easier to inspect the internal areas of the fixed tire.

The grippers that move the sides apart can be driven by the operator's muscular force (mechanical side spreaders) or by compressed air (pneumatic models).

The use of cheaper mechanical devices is only possible when working with small passenger car tires.

There are also bead extenders with hydraulically driven grippers, but for a number of reasons this design has not become widespread in the tire fitting business.

Some bead expanders are intended for the repair and inspection of tires on motorcycles, cars and small trucks; separate models are produced for the repair of large tires on trucks and special vehicles.

By type of installation and application, side expanders can be classified as follows:

Dredge device

If we talk about a dredge with a bucket working element, then there is nothing complicated in its design. However, there is also a vacuum type of installation, the design of which is different in many respects. It is intended for bulk deposits, which include marine gold-bearing sands. The machine consists of the following mechanisms.

• Pump - creates a suction effect.
• Sleeve - passes rock through itself under the influence of a created vacuum.
• Auxiliary hose - connected to a pump that pumps water, and directs it through a high-pressure pipeline into the hose.
• A sluice is a kind of container that calibrates the rock and throws away large debris.
• Butara - acts as a flushing mechanism.

All these elements work harmoniously, that is, together. Most often they are installed on a floating gold mining platform that operates on water. They are rarely used in quarries.

Purpose and functions

Structurally, the beads of all tires taper inward in radius. After removing the tire from the rim, the beads bend inward even more.

When repairing a damaged tire, it is necessary to provide access to its interior, first to inspect and search for the damaged area, and then for repair work, but the beads of the tire, bent inward, prevent these actions from being performed.

To solve this problem, side expanders were created.

The grippers, operated by the operator manually, pneumatically or hydraulically, extend the beads laterally to provide easy access to the inside of the tire.

The bead expander performs a number of functions:

Types of pipe benders

These mechanisms are designed for bending various rolled products, pipes and rods without destroying their cross-sectional structure.

Mechanical manual. Designed for deformation of various small-sized profiles, mainly made of soft metals.

Hydraulic. Mainly of the crossbow type, they are used to give the yoke profiles a curvilinear shape in a specific location.

With ratchet mechanism. Human physical energy is also used at the same time. fixation of the bending value is achieved after each movement of the lever.

Electrically driven. Makes work easier, but the financial costs are much higher.

The simplest device for an angle grinder stand

Actually, this device cannot be called a stand, but the work with it can be done almost the same as that provided by the most technologically advanced stand. The principle of its operation is clear from the short video:

But if instead of a strip you use a corresponding corner with a sawn-off part of one of the shelves, as one of the authors of a similar design did, then there will be no need to drill a blind hole in the head of the angle grinder.

In this case, the tool will be fastened with two screws into the threaded holes for the handle existing on the head of the angle grinder. But the principle of operation of the sole will not change - only its rigidity will increase.

The method of using an angle grinder as a kind of circular saw using the same sole, shown in another video by the same author, will also not change:

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Using a grinder for cutting various materials, cutting and sanding wood

Jack pipe bender

To make it you will need:

4 corners are fixed vertically by welding on the frame. Holes are drilled in each channel for the bolts holding the rollers. 2 corners should be welded to each channel.

Maintaining symmetry, the rollers are placed between the channels and secured with bolts. A segment attachment is installed on the jack rod and placed between the channels.

The amount of deformation of pipes and profiles can be changed by increasing the distance between the channels and rollers.

During operation, the bendable profile is placed under the rollers and, using the movement of the jack rod, is pressed with a segment attachment.

How to assemble a regrower from a burner

Tools you will need:

1. Household burner (models may be different, but it is desirable that the power be at least 200 watts).
2. Two copper plates with a square section of 10X10 mm and a length of 30 mm.
3. Drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 4 mm.
4. Double-sided razor blade.
5. A wooden block with a cross-section of 40X40 mm and a length of 150 mm.
6. 6 short bolts for 6.
7. 4 long bolts for 6.
8. Vise.

Sequencing:

1. The general principle is the same: disassemble the burner and attach a blade (in this case, a double-sided razor blade) to the heating element.
2. The burner pen should be disassembled and the wires removed from it.
3. In the above copper plates, 6 through holes should be drilled, 3 for each plate.
   Each trio of holes should be on one side of the plate. What are they responsible for? The first pair of holes is necessary for fastening the blade, the second pair of holes will be screwed into the bolts for fastening the burner wires. It is to them that the current will be supplied. The third pair of holes is for a bolt that will hold the two plates together. 2 copper plates, between which the razor blade is fixed
4. In the same plates, 2 more holes should be drilled, the axes of these 4 holes should be perpendicular to the axes of the above mounting holes. These holes are necessary for attaching the handle of the regulator, which can be made of wood and attached to the plates with long bolts.

   
   Regruver handle attached to plates with 4 bolts

5. The wires removed from the burner pen are stripped and bolted to the plates.
6. The second pair of 6 bolts is used to secure the knife from a razor blade.
7. The resulting structure is tightened with a long fastening bolt and attached to a wooden block (in which 4 holes should be drilled in advance) using 4 long bolts by 6.

Video: Making a device from a burner

The best mechanical bead expanders

In such devices, after adjusting the length and installation angle of the grip, the sides are expanded manually using the lever principle.

Such a drive can only be used to work with tires of cars and small trucks, with compact dimensions, the expansion of the sides of which requires only the operator’s muscular strength.

NordbergD1 is the leader of the rating due to its versatility. This is a stationary mechanical device that has its own base frame with a height of 800 mm. D1 is suitable for use on the most common vehicle types, from motorcycles to small trucks.

Thanks to its compact dimensions, the D1 can be installed in almost any room, except the smallest garages. The tire is easily fixed in a comfortable position using the pedal control.

The base on which the working platform (rotary table) is mounted is equipped with a hinge that allows circular movement for easy inspection and repair of the tire.

Trommelberg TS-M201 is a model that is almost identical to the leader in the rating. It has a slightly higher price, reduced weight and dimensions.

SivikKC-017 is a compact manual model, ideal for a small garage or auto repair shop. Designed for tires of cars, minibuses and crossovers. The advantage of the model is ease of use and small size.

Using a bracket, the KS-017 working platform is mounted on any work table, while maintaining the ability to rotate 3600. Weight of only 6.5 kg and dimensions 550x330 mm make it easy to dismantle the side expander and put it away if you need to free up limited space in a small garage.

Clipper T-510 is a bead expander for installation on a workbench or desktop. Designed for working with passenger tires. The main advantage of the T-510 is its price, the lowest in the rating.

Do-it-yourself stand for an angle grinder - overview of options

The main tasks of this rack:

• securely attach the instrument to the console;
• ensure minimal deviations from the cutting plane during operation;
• hold the tool securely in the up position.

To attach the grinder to the console, threaded fastenings of the handle on its head are suitable. There are 3 of them, and this is more than enough for reliable fixation.

Sometimes not everyone uses them.

And sometimes, to secure the grinder, they use a protective casing that is quite rigid and securely attached to its head.

For small grinders working with discs up to 125 - 150 mm, sometimes it will be sufficient to fasten the body to the console using powerful clamps, but to prevent axial rotation of the tool, the stop pad of the grinder head must be used.

Angles that work with large-diameter cutting discs (200 - 230 mm), in addition to securely attaching them to the console, must have a good support base for attaching the console itself to the work table.

This ensures minimal deviation from the cutting plane.

Many DIYers ensure the oscillatory movement of the console by installing one or two bearings to attach it to the desktop. For this purpose, ready-made bearing units for cars or bicycles are often used. However, sufficient mobility will be provided by a simple bolted connection, the parts of which, if well lubricated, will work as ordinary plain bearings.

So, as shown in the video describing the simple design of a metal angle grinder stand:

True, we would not rely on such reliability of fixing the tool in the upper position, as the author of the video recommends, but would install the tension spring in a convenient place.

It is clear that repairing such a console mount comes down to replacing the bolt, or, in extreme cases, simply increasing its diameter or installing a bushing if the mating parts are worn out a lot.

A similar principle of ensuring compliance with the flatness of the cut is also ensured when making a stand not from corners, but from profile pipes. Watch a short video about a simple homemade metal drain for an angle grinder:

Few people decide to make a wooden stand for an angle grinder, but this does not mean that it cannot be made. But some design solutions that we want to show you may well serve as a source of ideas for creating a rack of your own design, incl. and from this material.

To enlarge the picture, click on it:

Sometimes, to ensure that the tool returns to the upper position after making a cut, instead of a tension spring, a conventional counterweight is used to compensate for the weight of the tool itself.

Snail pipe bender

This mechanism is widely used because of its ability to bend a metal profile not in a specific place, but the entire product at once.

How to make a snail-type pipe bender at home without the help of professionals.

For this you will need:

Weld a base consisting of 2 narrow or 1 wide channel. Also, a metal sheet 0.5 cm thick is used to make the base.

Bearings pre-attached to the shafts are welded to the base. Then you should put on the sprockets, tension the chain, and then weld the sprockets.

Cut out the guides of the clamping device and attach them to the base by welding. Place the bearings on the pressure shaft and mount the press. Attach the bushing to the plate by welding, having first made a base for it.

Screw in the clamping screw and weld a gate made from pipes to it. To prevent corrosion, the bearings must be lubricated with oil. Once the pipe bender is assembled, it should be tested for strength and then painted to protect the welds from oxidation.

For ease of use, a spring is attached to the guides, returning the press to its original position.

Useful recommendations from the master

• If this is your first time deciding to bend pipes for any type of work, you should take into account some of the nuances of this process. For example, qualified craftsmen will definitely never sacrifice the quality of the bend in order to save a little time.
• When working with a pipe bender, it would be correct to make several weak pressures on the screw, but in 2 approaches to the machine. If you try to do everything in one go, then most likely you will bend the pipe, or put excessive pressure on it, which will lead to its rupture.
• To make it more convenient for you to work with a pipe bender, you need to create templates from plywood. In this case, it will be possible to create specific pipes for a specific type of work.
• It is important to install rolling rollers that are ideally suited for a specific pipe diameter; in this case, during rolling, the pipe will not move, and therefore its angle will not change. Plus, you won’t need to frequently adjust the pipe as it moves from the center of the support roller to the side border.

If you cannot make a template with your own hands for one reason or another, then keep a small notebook. In it you can record the control distances between the rolling and support rollers, in which case you will also receive a pipe with the desired bend.

The only drawback of this method is that the distance between the shafts can be difficult to measure using a regular tape measure.

We hope that this article was useful and informative for you, now you can make a pipe bender with your own hands. We wish you all the best!

Extender | Cars and automotive services (Car service)

Department of Automotive Transport and Automotive Service. Subject "Type and operation of garage equipment."

Introduction……………………………………………………………. …………………………3 1. Analysis of existing structures………. …………………………….4 2. Design calculations……………………………. ……………………………10 2.1.1 Calculation of a vertical beam………………………….……………….10 2.1.2 Calculation of a longitudinal beam……………… ……………………………….10 2.1.3 Calculation of the transverse beam of the frame……………………………………10 2.1.4 Calculation of the central pin……………… …………………………….11 2.1.5 Calculation of the wheel pin…………………………………….…………13 3. Design and assembly procedure……… ..………………………………….….16 4. Description of the developed design……………………………17 4.1 Design and operation of the structure……………… …………………………17 4.2 Technical characteristics of the design……………………………..17 Conclusion…………………………………………………………… ………………………18 References………………………………………………………………19 Appendix………………..……… ………………………………………………20

Introduction Road transport is one of the most important and basic elements of any production. More than 50% of the total volume of transportation is partially or completely carried out by road transport. The number of cars is constantly growing. The need for their diagnosis and repair is increasing. Process equipment, i.e. the set of devices, tools, equipment and devices used in the process of technical influences, maintenance, routine repairs and diagnostics of rolling stock of road transport largely determines the technical level of production and the degree of perfection of technological processes of vehicle maintenance and repair. The purpose of this course project is to design and calculate a bead expander for passenger car tires with a diameter of up to 17 inches. The most important technical characteristics of side expanders are: principle of operation and type of drive; Terms of Use; tire diameter; dimensions; price.

Contents: Assembly drawing of the bead expander, Specification, assembly drawing of the assembly unit, specification, plate, main tube, tube, explanatory note

Bead extender at a tire shop. Is it necessary or not?

Any good tire service uses special equipment to ensure high-quality and efficient work. A well-equipped car service makes it possible to repair vehicles, change tires and perform many other types of work.

Let's figure out whether a bead expander is needed for installation or not?

Bead spreaders are special

In addition, such equipment is usually located in a tire workshop and in organizations with their own fleet of vehicles.

To widen the tire beads, the wheel is mounted on a machine that is equipped with special rollers that rotate and lower the gripper inside the tire. Using bead expanders, you can inspect tires and clean them from dirt and dust, sand and polish them, install patches and install an inner tube.

Modern manufacturers produce different types of side expanders.

For example, machines Such machines are portable, tabletop and floor-standing. Extenders, which are equipped with a rotary table with adjustment, a lamp and an air preparation unit, can significantly facilitate the work of the master.

For large equipment used in agriculture and for large trucks, side expanders with equipped hydraulic or pneumatic drives are used. In addition, the machine kit may include a special device that lifts the wheel, a ramp for rolling tires, a lamp, an air preparation unit and a control panel.

Pneumatic type bead spreaders are usually more expensive, but working on such machines is much easier, since the spread of the beads is done by pressing the drive pedal, rather than manually.

You can see high-quality AE&T(c) bead expanders here: https://aet-auto.ru/catalog/vulkanizatory-bortorasshiriteli/bortorasshiriteli

Do-it-yourself bead extender drawings - Construction Portal

Point 1. Making a stock.

Let's take a well-dried wooden block, mine was made of birch, and sketch out a sketch of the bed on it. We customize the size of the butt for each individual (according to your height), and the stock depending on the length of the arrows you will use. I use 440 mm arrows, but I had to save money on the butt, I left only 300 mm, so the total length turned out to be 740 mm, I didn’t dare to do more.

Let's draw a marking for the guide sample, for the arrow fletching, width 5 mm, depth 10 mm.

Using a circular saw, we cut out the groove the entire length, to the end of the trigger (lock).

It should look something like this.

Using a drill D=12 mm. We select a cavity for the trigger, level the ledges with a chisel and knife. We drill a hole for the trigger, bore it with a chisel and knife.

Point 2. Making a lock or trigger device.

Let's take the "walnut" type as the basis for the lock. To prevent anything from rusting, we will use stainless steel, take a sheet 4-5 mm thick, if you can’t find one, make it a composite of several sheets glued together and taken with rivets. Draw the shape of the parts on the metal.

Using a cutting disc and a grinder, we cut out the workpiece according to the markings.

Let's drill a hole for the rotation axis D=6 mm.

We process all sides with a file.

We sand with sandpaper, achieving a completely smooth surface.

It should look something like this.

We grind out the remaining elements of the lock, the sear.

I lengthen the trigger with two thin sheets of stainless steel and secure it with homemade rivets.

Using a sharpening machine we achieve the desired shape of the workpieces.

We make the housing of the trigger mechanism from a thin sheet of metal.

We drill three holes D = 2.5 mm in the body of the sear, one for the fastening axis and two for fastening the springs.

Let's attach the trigger spring into place.

Let's see on the table how the parts become in the cocked state.

And like after the shot.

Let's place one side of the case on the inside of the mechanism and drill holes in place for all the axes.

From a two hundred nail, 6 mm in diameter, we will make an axis for the “nut”.

Saw off the sharp end of the nail.

We measure the length of the future axis and saw it off.

Using thin nails for roofing felt, we will make the remaining rivet axles. Use a grinder to remove the shimmer on the nail heads.

Now they will fit well to the body.

Let's install the sear on the axle in the body, use intermediate washers.

We saw off the excess length of the nail, leaving 1 mm. on both sides for rolling.

Using an anvil, hammer the end of the axle.

We drill a hole for the axle with a spacer to attach the sear spring.

From a suitable tube we cut off a spacer sleeve for this axis.

We move one side of the body to the side.

We install the axle, bushing and engage the spring.

We assemble the body halves together.

We saw off the excess length, leaving a protrusion of 1 mm. under the hammer.

Now you can install the largest rivet axle of the lock. Aligning the holes.

Let's take the previously measured and sawed-off axis D=6 mm, and immediately tap it a little with a hammer on one side.

We install it in place.

And we’ll also roll it, the main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to jam the moving mechanism inside.

How to make a simple drill stand for an electric drill

The first version of the homemade design, despite its simplicity, combines several advantages: low cost and functionality.

This stand is more reminiscent of a tabletop mini drilling machine.

The costs of implementing this idea are minimal. In any case, such a homemade product will cost less than buying the most primitive factory model.

The idea of ​​making a stand for a drill with your own hands belongs to the author of the YouTube channel MakeTools. The main material for the manufacture of the structure is a profile pipe with a wall thickness of 1.5 mm.

The size of the drill stand frame is 300x300 mm (however, you can make the base larger if necessary).

The height of the vertical stand is 500 mm (again, you can change it up or down if necessary).

The movable T-shaped part to which the electric drill is attached consists of two parts: vertical (length - 150 mm) and horizontal (length - 100 mm).

Additionally, fastening elements are used in the form of bolts and nuts of different sizes: M10 - for connecting parts, M8 - for fastening the door spring (return mechanism).

Let's start making a stand for the drill with our own hands.

The first step is to make a frame (base). We cut four pieces of corrugated pipe with the edges at an angle of 45 degrees and weld them together.

After this, we cut off four more blanks and weld them inside the resulting frame.

Next you will need to make adjustable legs. To do this, drill four holes in the frame along the edges and weld the nuts. We screw the bolts into them (they will act as legs).

At the next stage, we make the movable T-shaped part. The end hole in the short section (the holder for the drill) will need to be plugged. We cut a piece of a square plate of a suitable size from sheet metal, insert it into a profile pipe, and scald it.

After this, you need to make a clamp to attach the drill. It can be made from a piece of metal round pipe. We cut it, adjust it to size, and then weld two nuts.

We cut a profile pipe 25x25 mm (500 mm long). We weld the stand to the frame. We put the moving part on it. We weld a clamp to the holder.

Now you will need to make a drive lever that will lower the moving part along with the drill.

We cut a piece of profile pipe 20x20 mm with a length of 500 mm. We weld an extended nut to the lever, and a bolt will need to be welded to the moving part.

Next, you need to make another lever from a professional pipe 200 mm long. We weld an extended nut on one side of the profile, and a bolt on the other. We weld a second elongated nut to the long lever.

Let's make one more part. We weld an elongated nut to the bolt head, as shown in the photo below.

We drill a hole in the rack frame, insert and fix the part. We attach a short lever to it. And we already attach the drive lever to it.

At the last stage, all that remains is to install the door spring, which, after drilling the workpiece, will return the mechanism for moving the drill to its original position. The spring is secured with two extended nuts and bolts.

The lower nut is welded to the moving part, the upper one is secured with a bolt connection.

To do this, you need to drill a hole in the rack into which a bolt is inserted (from inside the profile). An extended nut is screwed onto it. We clean the welds and paint all structural elements.

With this simple device, you can drill vertical holes in pieces of wood, plywood or metal, and not worry that something will turn out crooked.

We recommend watching the step-by-step process of manufacturing the main structural parts and assembling the drill stand in the author's video.

Drill stand. Homemade Drill press

Extenders

“Stapel-M” is a device designed to hold inner tubes and tires of passenger cars during the preparatory work.

The rotating mechanism facilitates easy access to the inner area of ​​the tires when inspecting and repairing local damage. The bead extender is used in motor transport enterprises, at car service and repair stations, as well as in tire repair shops. Now you will have easier access to the car tire being processed.

The Efes pneumatic bead expander is perfect for working with hard truck tires.

Manually operated bead expander. The hook can be adjusted. The working platform rotates for good lighting during repairs.

Pneumatically driven bead spreader for tires with section width ≤ 30.5 cm. The hook can be fixed at three different levels and can be adjusted for a precise tire fit. The superior pneumatic leg system allows you to support the load anywhere during work without air leakage for 24 hours. Using the adjustment button, you can set the pressure in the pneumatic system.

How to make a disc harrow with your own hands using a 3D model

Agricultural work cannot be done without the use of a functional harrow. It is impossible to carry out sowing without destroying the top crust of the earth and without digging up the soil to a loose consistency, thereby destroying all the weeds. That is why the presence of a disc harrow in every farm is an urgent need.

You can organize your own production of disc harrows at home if you have a garage, a welding machine and additional tools. Farmers are clients with good solvency. If you make your offer with a lower price but the same quality, then you can easily sell an expensive disc harrow unit. After all, this type of agricultural equipment brings large incomes to farmers.

DIY disc harrow

What does the design of the harrow consist of, which we propose to make with our own hands for use on the MTZ-80 tractor?

Is it possible to make a dredge with your own hands?

Based on what was written above, it is theoretically possible to make a mini dredge, but you will have to buy some additional parts. In any case, it will be much cheaper than purchasing a new device (about 3 times). However, it is not a fact that a device assembled by yourself will work well. When designing, you need to take into account many nuances.

Required tools, materials and components

Self-production only involves assembling all the mechanisms into one whole, since it is almost impossible to construct them with your own hands. The list of what you will have to buy consists of the following units.

• Motor - it will turn the main elements.
• Pump - a centrifugal water pump is suitable.
• Compressor - needed to produce air for breathing underwater.
• Pipes are a readily available material.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the pump and compressor must be attached to the motor and use its energy to function. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to ensure that their installation is as simple as possible.

You can also buy a gateway, but it’s quite possible to make it yourself. To do this, you will need aluminum profiles, galvanization and metal of various shapes.

General form

Conventionally, mini dredges are divided into portable and stationary (more productive). The latter are considered more cost-effective because they can operate in deeper bodies of water and are equipped with a compressor to generate air so that the miner can remain under water for a long time. General diagrams and drawings of such installations are presented below.

In addition to these, there are also so-called hand dredges, which are convenient to work with in shallow water or in streams. The principle of operation is the same, only all the equipment is attached very compactly, which allows you to carry it in your hands. The unit itself is somewhat reminiscent of a vacuum cleaner for gold.

How to make a gear with your own hands

Hello. I want to share my experience of quickly creating gears. I will briefly tell you how to design gears and how to manufacture them.

I tried to present it in as simple a language as possible.

Recently, a friend who was selling chocolate fountains in St. Petersburg came up with an unusual offer. The fountain was returned to him, where the screw that raised the chocolate did not spin. I love tasks like this, when few people can (or want to) take on the task of repairing individual things and you need to rack your brain a little on how to make rare spare parts with your own hands.

After disassembly it became clear that the problem was in the gearbox. One gear literally melted on the shaft (the quality of the components was simply excellent. Most likely, the gear slipped for a long time, then heated up. The fountain was turned off, the gear again stuck to the shaft with an offset center. Then it was turned on again and several teeth, unable to withstand the load, broke off) . It’s impossible to find the exact same gear, so I decided to make a new one from the equipment that was nearby.

options for creating gears , I will tell you only about one of them. In my opinion, it is the simplest and most effective.

Step 1. Development of a gear drawing

You will need:

So, we count the number of teeth of the broken gear. We enter all the parameters and take measurements.

Download the drawing file. I drew the inner star myself in Corel, because... I didn't find the required parameter.

When calculating the internal diameter of the gear, you need to maintain a delicate balance between spinning and cracking from strong tension.

Step 2. Making the gear

DIY drill guide

We bring to your attention the third budget version of a homemade device. The design is also quite simple to manufacture, but is made of metal. This idea belongs to the author of the YouTube channel Be Creative.

Materials that will be required for the manufacture and assembly of the drill stand:

• profile pipe;
• metal bushings;
• clamp for drill;
• steel plates;
• guides;
• return springs.

First of all, it is necessary to make a movable part of the stand to which the electric drill will be attached. In the previous version it was made of wood, in this one it is made of corrugated pipe.

Cut a piece of square profile and cut out the ends of the saddle. Then we weld two bushings to it.

In the middle you need to weld a clamp to attach the electric drill. It can be made from a piece of round pipe, two nuts and a bolt.

Next, we cut off three pieces of steel strip and weld the base of the stand (support platform) from them.

We weld guides made of smooth reinforcement to the base. We put springs on them.

We fix the drill with a clamp, and then put the moving part on the guides.

The homemade drill stand is ready. Yes, it looks very primitive and flimsy, but it can be made very quickly from scraps of metal.

The detailed manufacturing and assembly process of this structure can be seen in the video below.

Wow??? Genius Idea