Tuning VAZ 2109: interesting options for designing and improving the nine with your own hands (120 photos)

Buggy from VAZ 2109

This all-terrain vehicle, unlike other similar vehicles, was not made from scratch, but had the standard VAZ 2109 model as its basis. However, despite this, the author managed to achieve the necessary qualities and created an excellent buggy.
Materials and units used in the construction of the all-terrain vehicle:

1) Body and most parts from VAZ 2109 2) metal profile 3) muffler from Cherry Amulet 4) Hubs from Niva 5) brake discs from Niva 6) wheel bearings 7) Two external grenades from Niva, anthers from VAZ 2109 9) thick iron sheet 5 mm 10) reinforced ball 11) Niva wheels 12) org sheet. glass 13) transfer case from a Niva 14) factory levers from a Niva

Let's take a closer look at the stages of building an all-terrain vehicle.

Initially, the author received an ordinary nine, with which he began to experiment. To begin with, the standard VAZ 2109 was turned into a convertible:

And the author drove it for the whole summer in exactly this form, but since the car was quite shabby, it could not withstand such use and the rear beam was torn off along with part of the spar.

However, this did not upset the author and he decided to build something more unusual and interesting out of it. To do this, he dragged the car to the garage and began to modernize it.

First of all, the author decided to work on the body of the car, since the whole thing is too heavy. Therefore, taking the grinder in his hands, he separated the unnecessary parts from the car.

Then, due to insufficient experience in welding, the author encountered a problem when welding a standard muffler from a VAZ 2109, in the end the author abandoned this idea and installed the middle part of the muffler from a Cherry Amulet.

Which only took half an hour:

Then the author began work on the bridges, installing a transfer case from the Niva, modifying the gearbox, as well as minor repairs to the VAZ 2109 engine.

All this is attached to a reinforced frame, which stands on an independent suspension, on four steering knuckles of the field. The levers were taken from the factory and underwent minor processing.

According to the author’s calculations, the suspension travel should be 40 centimeters.

After assembling and installing the main structural elements, the all-terrain vehicle was tested on forest roads, where the all-terrain vehicle showed excellent handling, maneuverability and speed characteristics.

After driving on a wet road after rain, the author came to the conclusion that the car needs to install rear mudguards. For these purposes, plastic fender liners from the same VAZ 2109 were used:

In this form, the all-terrain vehicle was tested for one season, after which the author made the following conclusions: Road handling after rain left much to be desired, the reason for this was the fact that the front part of the all-terrain vehicle dug in very quickly. It is also necessary to make a normal gas tank instead of the used canister, since the fuel does not last long and, moreover, there is no tightness, which is why the canister leaked on uneven surfaces.

Also, for installation on the all-terrain vehicle, the hubs from the Niva were machined to the size of the nine bearings. Disc brakes and boots were installed, and brake adapters were made from a five-millimeter sheet of iron. The author also began installing reinforced ball joints on the all-terrain vehicle. Wheels from the Niva were also installed on the all-terrain vehicle:

Here are photos of the all-terrain vehicle after all the major modifications:

As you may have noticed, due to the not entirely identical mounting design, the wheels from the field had to be installed with the reverse side. Although at first the author thought about installing stands, it turned out to be too long, and it also affected the budget of the car.

In the future, the author wants to solve the problem by radically changing the stance of the vehicle and reworking the entire suspension of the all-terrain vehicle.

It is also planned to install four-point seat belts for safety.

Despite the fact that the hubs were weakened after turning, they can cope with the loads, both lateral and the weight that falls on two bearings.

This is what the front suspension looks like, which has undergone minimal changes:

In the future, it is planned to create a homemade upper arm using an A-shaped wide model, and place a shock-absorbing strut from a VAZ 2108 in the center.

The author is also studying documentation and forums regarding the installation of CV joints on off-road buggies. The possibility of abandoning the independent suspension in favor of UAZ axles, or creating a Mazurkevich-type suspension, is being considered.

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What can and should be done

Types of modernization work:

1. Make noise insulation of the interior;
2. Change seats;
3. Re-upholstery;
4. Install a “non-native” dashboard;
5. Remodel or replace appliances;
6. Cover with film (carbon, wood, aluminum);
7. Make neon interior lighting;
8. Install electric windows;
9. Replace the rear side windows with opening ones;
10. Install air conditioning;
11. Cover the floor with aluminum;
12. Carry out auto sound preparation;

You can read more about much of this list in the Interior Tuning section.

To imagine the entire scope of work on internal tuning and visualize the result of such changes, we recommend looking at the corresponding photos and videos at the bottom of the page.

4WHEELS

Sometimes there is not enough money for a car, especially during a crisis, but you really want to have your own vehicle. Some craftsmen with golden hands get out of this situation quite simply: car enthusiasts build new ones from old cars. Just take a look at these projects:

Quad 4x4 "Scoop"

Apparently, the author of this VAZ 2109 ATV was not satisfied with how public utility workers remove snow. Taking all his hands, he built this unit. The engine is from a VAZ 21081, the axles are from a Moskvich 412, the lower suspension arms are figure-eight, the upper arms are homemade, the front rear shock absorbers are from a VAZ 2108, the rear rear shock absorbers are from ZAZ, the frame is made from profile pipes.

Diggati

Meet Diggati with a 1.7-liter engine from a VAZ 2103. Its owner first wanted to build a buggy, and then a compact SUV. But due to a lack of money, we got this little car called Diggati.

Baby 4x4

“Baby”, this is what the author of this project calls his all-terrain vehicle. Volga with huge wheels on civilian bridges from UAZ, engine and gearbox from VAZ 2109, transfer case from Niva. Niva.

Bar stool with motor

It took exactly two months to build this vehicle. The motorized bar stool accelerates to 80 km/h. The device is equipped with hydraulic brakes from an ATV and some parts from a go-kart.

Triton-1

The Triton-1 all-terrain vehicle was built to make it possible to less carefully plan the route of a fishing trip in the part that concerns roads. The engine here is a 1.5-liter with a capacity of 68 hp. from VAZ 21083. The maximum speed of the 950-kilogram unit is 35 km/h.

Which model to choose for homemade products

When creating a homemade design, any Lada or Lada car is used. The machine is equipped with an additional frame, the body is attached to the base through rubber pads. The design provides for a transfer gearbox or an additional gearbox, expanding the traction range. The car retains its standard heating and ventilation system, and the original seats and seat belts remain in the cabin.

VAZ-2108

The wheeled all-terrain vehicle from the VAZ-2108 retains the original body and interior, but the wheel arches increase in accordance with the diameter of the wheels. The installation of extenders is provided to prevent contamination of the side windows when driving in off-road conditions. The body is placed on a frame made of steel profile, to which axles, engine and transmission units are attached on leaf springs. Ground clearance depends on the diameter of the wheels, the deflection of the springs and the relative position of the points for sealing the ends of the elastic elements.

VAZ-2106

The design based on the VAZ-2106 consists of a modified car body and a frame assembled from channel sections. The gasoline engine and gearbox of the car are left in their standard places, axles and a transfer gearbox from UAZ SUVs are mounted on the frame. Modified tires from a GAZ-66 truck are installed on homemade wheels (made from standard UAZ parts). The resulting all-terrain vehicle based on the Lada can move through swamps and overcome water obstacles up to 1 m deep.

VAZ-2107

A wheeled snow and swamp-going vehicle based on the VAZ-2107 body does not differ from designs based on other cars. There are original designs on rubber tracks; road wheels are made from standard Zhiguli wheels. Torque is transmitted through the gearbox to the transfer gearbox, which rotates the drive wheels. The increased dimensions of the equipment should be taken into account; driving such all-terrain vehicles on public roads is prohibited.

Crazy “Nivas”: tuning projects of Lada 4×4, which are sold in Russia

There is a feeling that tuning has found a second wind in Russia. With the widespread spread of social networks and all kinds of car blogs and vlogs, car owners with money and opportunities have become engrossed in building unique car projects and displaying them on the Internet. Just look at blogger Konstantin Zarutsky’s tracked Bentley, which seems to have appeared on all screens, including the BBC. Well, the most interesting thing is that the authors do not shy away from domestic cars, sometimes investing crazy amounts of money in them.

Why do the authors get rid of their creations, into which they invested so much effort and money? Actually, owners of tuning cars most often do not hide the fact that they were building a unique car for the sake of the process itself. The life cycle of such cars often consists of party rides, participation in auto shows and festivals, sometimes even victories in auto competitions and, of course, online hype. After this, the owner often loses interest in the “toy,” putting it up for sale in order to invest money in a new project, a new stage of viral videos and photos on Instagram.

Our answer Gelandewagen 6×6 for 300,000 rubles

The craftsmen from the Tolyatti car service center took the issue very seriously and from a 1994 Niva pickup truck, they made our answer to the “Gelika 6x6” in six months. The car was even featured in a story on local television. At first, the Niva was built as a vehicle for a motocross team.

Essentially only one cabin remained from the original source. The engine was replaced with a forced ZMZ-406 unit with a volume of 2.3 and a power of 170 hp, a gearbox from a Gazelle. Axle locks and electronic transfer case control are installed. The rear axle is lazy. Externally, the vehicle is equipped with a ton of off-road equipment.

The main problem is that technical changes have not been made to the title, which means that, in fact, the SUV is not allowed on public roads. That is why the price for such a project is, one might say, cheap.

Capabilities of the Zhiguli tractor

Despite its simplicity and small dimensions, a homemade tractor with a Zhiguli engine will be able to perform the most important agricultural work.

These include:

• plowing soft loose and harder soils;
• development of small areas with virgin soil;
• harrowing and soil cultivation;
• sowing seeds and planting grown bushes;
• hilling up beds;
• spraying of cultivated plants;
• harvesting;
• mowing grass;
• preparation and transportation of bales of hay and straw;
• transportation of goods over long distances.

If a homemade Zhiguli tractor has a PTO installed, it can be equipped with a small-sized bucket or bulldozer blade. If necessary, you can also install an excavator boom on the unit, which will allow you to perform loading operations.

"Niva" on 22 "skating rinks"

Maximum effect for minimum money. Not a very complicated tuning project for an almost new 2022 Niva. The main wow effect is achieved through the complex paint job and, of course, the introduction of huge 22-inch wheels with low-profile tires.

All the optics on the car have been replaced with LED ones, wheel arch extensions have been installed, and the body has been wrapped in film. There are good acoustics inside with podiums in the doors. The owner Sergei from Moscow assures that the original mileage on the car does not exceed 6000 km. The price for a spectacular Niva is not very high - 555,555 rubles.

"Niva" on tracks

For 580,000 rubles you can become the owner of a domestic SUV on tracks.

Actually, half the price of a 2008 Niva with a mileage of 90 thousand km is made up of caterpillar mechanisms. The car is equipped with a factory VOP 1500 kit from Wheeltracks, which anyone can buy for any SUV.

In addition, the Niva is equipped with an expeditionary trunk, improved music and an alarm system with auto start. Alloy wheels with winter tires are also available, but it is not very clear from the advertisement whether they are included or not.

I'm my mom's master

A 28-year-old resident of Chelyabinsk decided that the miracle of the domestic automobile industry was not worthy of being left in a landfill. Therefore, the guy decided to make something useful and unusual out of an old car. As you can see, he succeeded brilliantly!

Not only is the sofa very comfortable, but it also comes with a surprise. Its headlights light up and many functions turn on. Therefore, let’s say “bravo” to the master who was inspired to create such an original piece of furniture.

This is what the real geniuses of our time sculpt when they have inspiration, free time and “extra” metal. Could you create something like that?

"Niva" for the trophy

A car enthusiast from sunny Krasnodar decided to turn his 2015 Niva Urban into an off-road conqueror. The project turned out to be spectacular, however, the car itself looks more like a walking exhibition of off-road equipment than a real trophy-raid tool. For example, among other things, the car is equipped with a subwoofer, two amplifiers and podiums for speakers, as well as an awning - obviously, irreplaceable things when conquering off-road terrain.

One way or another, the list of improvements exceeds 40 items. Among the most serious are a 5-centimeter lift with the installation of Cooper off-road wheels, a 10-ton winch, pneumatic preparation for purging and pumping, tuning of the suspension, axles, strengthening of the body and other elements. The vehicle comes with all the necessary off-road equipment, including a hi-jack.

Unfortunately, the owner did not write anything about boosting the engine. Since the Niva with its original 83-horsepower engine moves with great effort in stock condition, one can only guess what kind of load the frail engine will experience after installing all of the above. The cost of the project is 750,000 rubles.

Chevrolet Niva suspension tuning

Lada 2101 OCHRA GOLDEN Logbook VAZ 2106 instrument panel and chrome nishtyaks

Niva Chevrolet was created for driving on rough terrain, so the car’s suspension is able to withstand serious loads, but not all and not always. Therefore, to improve cross-country ability, it is necessary to strengthen the suspension.

The most popular and relatively simple is lifting a Chevrolet Niva with your own hands, that is, increasing the ground clearance. For this purpose, special kits are sold, the installation of which will require the use of plumbing and pneumatic tools, as well as the presence of a lift. Suspension tuning itself consists of the following stages:

Reinforcement of the suspension with shock absorbers, they are installed in parallel with the standard ones

It is first necessary to prepare fastenings for them Improvement in terms of the reliability of standard fastenings of support units Installation of shock-absorbing struts or gas-oil shock absorbers Replacing standard springs with reinforced modifications Installation of non-adjustable steering knuckles Replacing standard hubs with rotary ones Particular attention must be paid to reaction rods, they must be strengthened.. https: //www.youtube.com/embed/pRVkyr2OceY

Tuning the Chevrolet Niva transfer case is an important stage in suspension modernization. But in the case of Niva Chevrolet, this is more likely to eliminate childhood diseases, which increases the level of reliability of the technological unit. To do this you need:

• Replace standard bearings with double row ones
• Replacing bearings will require replacing caps
• Be sure to change the seals
• Equip the transfer case with additional shaft support

It is imperative that the transfer case be properly centered. This reduces the vibration level and increases the technical life of the unit.

"Niva" swamp vehicle

A Ural car enthusiast has put up for sale a rare Niva, an all-terrain vehicle on huge low-pressure wheels. There is no description or history of the car, except that the SUV is a 2009 model with a mileage of 7,000 km.

The presented specimen is most likely the brainchild of the Tolyatti company, which was engaged in mass production of special vehicles based on VAZ technology. The Niva body was mounted on the frame through elastic rubber pads. Unique cross-country ability was ensured by the design of elastic thin-walled ultra-low pressure tires.

The cost of the unsinkable Niva is 800,000 rubles.

"TurboNiva" with a 200 hp engine.

One of the largest tuning projects based on the Niva. A car enthusiast from Tambov has done a tremendous job, turning a domestic SUV into a sports car.

Actually, the technical part underwent the main alteration. The engine received turbocharging, new control unit, camshafts, exhaust system, power system, air system and other modifications. According to the owner, the engine, now powered by “100th” gasoline, showed an output of 200 horsepower on the stand. (What is the resource of the forced engine is left behind the scenes).

The TurboNiva has a completely redesigned suspension and braking system. The interior received a lot of improvements, including redesigning the front panel for a multimedia system. The trunk is almost completely devoted to the installation of an acoustic system.

The total cost of the exclusive project is 1,000,000 rubles.

"Niva" - a racing legend for $100,000

Smirnov Design Bureau, famous among restorers, has put up for sale a historical rally car based on the Niva. Multiple winner of world rally raids from 1983 to 1988, including under the control of Formula 1 vice-champion, six-time Le Mans winner and Dakar champion Jacqui Ickx.

One of 8 built and 4 surviving examples. The 1983 car has a 1.8-liter engine producing 180 horsepower. The cost of the legend is 7,900,000 rubles.

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What can be made from a VAZ-2108: 5 cars you didn’t know about

The most unusual cars based on the G8

AvtoVAZ began developing front-wheel drive cars in 1971. In 1977, the project was fleshed out and the development of the VAZ-2108 car began; a year later the plant had a concept for the future car. By the end of 1978, the first prototype was assembled, and in 1984, finished cars rolled off the assembly line. The model was assembled until 2003 and during its existence received a lot of very unusual modifications.

VAZ-2108 EVA

A sports car based on the G8, built in the 1980s in Estonia. Developed by Soviet racing driver and director of the Experimental Vilnius Automobile Plant (EVA) Stasys Brundza. The car is designed for rallying, prepared according to group B. In fact, very little remains of the original design - optics, windshield and doors, the rest of the body is made of fiberglass. The engine was installed from a VAZ-2106, with the help of a number of modifications and turbocharging on this car it produced about 300 horsepower. The motor is located at the rear, the drive also goes to the rear axle. On the basis of this car, an all-wheel drive project, S-PROTO, was created, but group B was closed and there was no need to work on such a car.

VAZ-2108 "Tarzan"

An SUV with the appearance of the G8 was assembled in 1997 at the Lada-Consul enterprise. In essence, the car was a “Niva”, onto which a body from 2108 was “stretched”. The engine, transmission, and steering from the “Niva” were installed on the frame, then the body was mounted through rubber cushions. The joints of the frame and body are covered with plastic covers. The interior was retained from the G8; only the lining of the central tunnel had to be modified in order to install the transfer case control levers there. Cars were manufactured in small batches, to order. In total, about 2,500 copies were produced.

VAZ-2108 “Targa” Experienced

The first Soviet car with a “targa” body appeared in 1988, becoming the fruit of the creativity of AvtoVAZ designers from the Style Center. The car received a rear end similar to the future 21099 and an open roof with a removable panel. Door reinforcements and two-piece glass appeared. But the 2108 Targa was not destined to go into production. They produced only one finished sample and one body, neither of which has survived.

VAZ-2108 IKS Experienced

This is a special modification of the G8, released in 1986 by order of Aeroflot. The machine is designed to measure the coefficient of runway friction. The data obtained made it possible to predict what distance the aircraft would need to brake.

Lada Natasha

A convertible based on the G8 was released in 1990 by the Belgian company, which imported Lada cars. Tolyatti designer Vladimir Yartsev was involved in the development of the exterior, and the open bodies were made at factories in Belgium and Germany, as part of small-scale production. “Natasha” did not receive any differences from the usual “Eight”, except for an open body and bumpers with moldings. The weight of the car has been increased by 70 kilograms due to body reinforcements and a folding mechanism. About 450 of these machines were produced.

Useful video

Instrument panel supervision in Hyundai Solaris
We recommend watching the video:

The above is not a complete list of activities that can be carried out to improve your car, but they are enough to turn an ordinary factory UAZ Patriot into a modern, comfortable SUV with high cross-country ability.

This SUV, produced since 2005 by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, is almost ideal for bold experiments on its exterior and interior, as well as for optimizing performance in general. Being a comfortable all-wheel drive vehicle with spacious interior space and high load capacity, the design of the UAZ Patriot offers many tuning options designed specifically for the interior.

It should be remembered that it is better to entrust complex work on re-equipping a car to professionals, since this can critically affect and disrupt the functioning of many standard systems.

Homemade ATV based on Oka and VAZ units

We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next machine he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself.

A year of work of 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, only minor (and I would say pleasant) modifications remained: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

Lighting system

The factory lighting system of the VAZ 2109 is quite good, but does not have a very attractive appearance. The problem with the headlights offered for replacement is their low quality, so you need to make your choice carefully. By purchasing and installing low-quality but beautiful headlights, you will significantly worsen the lighting, and this will negatively affect traffic safety. The lighting system can be modified as follows:

• replacing the headlight unit;

  
  One of the elements of lighting tuning is installing angel eyes

• tinting, but at the same time the quality of light deteriorates;
• xenon headlights, but there is a fine for this and they cause inconvenience to other drivers and passers-by;
• installation of LED lamps, especially suitable for rear lights.

The plastic on taillights often becomes cloudy, which impairs its appearance and quality of lighting. To fix the problem, you can buy new plastic, but sometimes it is enough to polish the one you have. This will improve the appearance of the lights and the brightness of the lighting, making the car more visible at night and in fog.

Rear lights are tuned using LED bulbs

Video: tuning rear lights

DIY Oka ATV

The power unit for my homemade ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooled. And if its power was often not enough for a car, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The machine frame is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of side members: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. I bent the pipes on a pipe bender, “cold”. Eyes (pairs of ears) for attaching suspension arms and shock absorbers were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets were welded as components and assemblies were installed (in “place”).

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is unique. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the Oka the engine is located transversely, while on an ATV it is installed lengthwise. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (Gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. It’s just that the power unit itself, interlocked with the clutch “basket” and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly VAZ models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be modified. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, I removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be locked in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gear shift lever is on the left.

The inter-wheel gearboxes are from the rear axles of the VAZ “classics”, only their axle shafts along with the “stockings” were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are also used as hinges in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.

There are no low gears or differential locks.

The steering is motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with tie rods) at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at the lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in a shape resembling the letter “T”. At the edge of the “rack” there is a hole with a diameter of 20 mm - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the tie rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The bipod ears are bent down slightly so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

The transmissions stopped turning on! + Tuning flywheel and clutch

I was driving home from work and noticed that the gears were somehow starting to shift into gear. I thought that the clutch cable had stretched and went to the garage. I pulled it up and drove it, but it didn’t get any better. The next day I have to go to work, so I decided not to take it apart, and after working on the weekend I’ll figure out what the reason is.

I got to work fine, but I barely got home from work... the gears wouldn’t engage, as if there was no clutch at all.

I've already started to figure it out in the garage, the cable is moving and the foot is also what is the reason... I decided to remove the box and look at the basket.

There is wear on the petals, a little weakened and that’s all. So it's in the box!

I’ve been wanting to remove it for a long time, but I kept putting it off, a piece was broken off on the body where the internal grenade is inserted and oil was dripping from there. I wanted to remove it and weld it, but the box body turned up and also came with a dipstick, but I didn’t have one. In general, the building lay there and waited for its time, and now it has come!

I took the box and took the body to the car wash, and then to the technician. As a result, we had to change the bearings, input shaft, 2nd and 4th gears, forks and differential.

The master assembled everything into a new case and I took it back to the garage to install it. While the box was being made, I ordered a new Prior clutch and a lightweight flywheel.

I also bought supports for the car, a very good thing, I should have bought them earlier.

I installed a new lightweight flywheel, a Priora basket with a disc and the box itself.

I tied everything together and decided to put a new cable on the clutch at the same time. I start the car, put it in gear, and lo and behold, everything works! I drove through the garages and everything is fine. Well, now you need to break in the clutch and you can try to give it a whirl.

DIY ATV body kit

Do-it-yourself ATV body kit - fiberglass. I glued it in for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a square steel pipe with a cross-section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over your knee. The contour was welded to the frame using jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit) the “tacks” could be easily cut off. Then I bent “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I attached separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was made with polystyrene foam purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same polystyrene foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it cuts well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into the overall structure on polyurethane foam.

Salon

Tuning the VAZ 21099 also applies to interior modifications. First of all, they change the standard sound insulation, upholstery, seats and instrument panel.

To improve the sound insulation properties, the interior is emptied, the trim is dismantled and noise-reducing materials are attached using a special adhesive, and the joints are treated with appropriate liquid solutions. The new upholstery gets better materials, and the standard seats are replaced with ones removed from foreign cars.

Improvement of the dashboard consists of installing a multimedia center (a tablet computer integrated into the dashboard of the car), installing an on-board computer, and a navigator. The instrument panel and steering wheel installed on a tuned VAZ 2109 can also be removed from another model.

DIY ATV frame drawings

The false tank has a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic film, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry out inside. Filled until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw out the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.

Part of the Oka dashboard was used under the instrument panel. I secured it to the blank also using polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-porous, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I coated the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, putting plaster and painting the block could be neglected.

So, the blockhead is ready and to glue a high-quality product, it was required: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass fabric, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly advisable to wear breathing protection. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable they are. But, as you know, you can’t buy experience, so I gained it in the process of work.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. The whole idiot covered it with stripes carefully, without any omissions. It only took 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

I diluted the resin in 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before this, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases would lie on flat surfaces, and on uneven surfaces, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.

First, I thickly coated one area of ​​the blockhead with epoxy resin, placed fiberglass on it and impregnated the top with resin again. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.

After covering the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to cover it with glass mat. The fiberglass mat I got was quite thick, and it turned out to be good for gaining the thickness of the product. But it does not hug uneven surfaces, so I used it only on flat (or slightly sloping) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. Just keep in mind that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, uneven surfaces were glued in several layers with cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day of break it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin cures completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even just one layer.

Since I needed the surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and I didn’t have enough experience, dips and holes still remained - I filled them with resin alone, and with pieces of fiberglass applied there. There wasn't enough resin. I already bought more at the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more because it was already packaged, and all I had to do was mix the ingredients. And it dried faster than the one purchased from the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands while picking, he separated the product piece by piece without much effort from the blockhead.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, ordinary preparatory and painting work using “all” technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstakingly filling the recesses with putty and fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. Finally - metallic painting and varnish with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut it off and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded “in place” mounts on the frame.

Finally, I welded front and rear luggage racks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kangaroo bars” that replaced the bumpers.

Transfer of breather 5st gearbox

All owners of five-speed chisels are familiar with the problem of oil squeezing out through the box breather.
So I'm tired of the look of a dirty box under the hood. I decided to change the oil and at the same time move the breather higher. I ordered a new Toyota breather (9093003136) (this version without a valve, I don’t need it), a hose (21214180002800) and a fitting (21230170002100) for the breather from the shnivy. I also bought a Nordberg liter syringe (NO1100) for changing the oil. Experience has shown that half a liter would be enough.

The work is very simple, we take out the original breather and put the Shniv fitting in its place, put the hose on the fitting, place it in a convenient place under the hood and insert the Toyt breather into the end of the hose.

After this work and an oil change, I went and washed the engine compartment and now it’s clean.

The protection is slowly being worn away.