Master class “Grenades and mines” (attributes for the military-patriotic game “Zarnitsa”, Quest games, relay races)

How to make pomegranate juice at home

Ingredients
Steps Print

• Use fresh and heavy grenades. Look for grenades that feel heavy for their size. The heavier they feel, the more juice they will contain. Don't worry about split or cracked fruit, as cracks can be a sign of extremely ripe and juicy pomegranates. Avoid pomegranates that are soft-spotted, slimy, or too light for their size. A medium-sized pomegranate yields about 1/2 to 3/4 cup of fresh pomegranate juice. Large fruits may yield a glass or more.
• Remove the seeds. Using a very sharp knife, cut the sides of the pomegranate and peel from top to bottom. Cut off the top or end of the stem, pull the fruit apart and remove the seeds. Unlike when you peel pomegranates to eat them, you don't have to worry about peeling off every piece of membrane or breaking apart all the seed tufts. Although you need to remove all the peel, as it can give the juice a bitter taste. Remove any large pieces of membrane so that they do not interfere with the juice being extracted from the seeds. Do all this over a large bowl.
• Place the pomegranate seeds in a bag. Set aside the bowl with some of the juice you obtained while extracting the seeds from the fruit and transfer all the seeds to a sealable, durable plastic bag. Because you are going to crush the contents. Be careful to use a good quality bag, as thin or torn ones may tear, leaving all the juice on your kitchen counter. Once the seeds are in the bag, get rid of as much air as possible before sealing the bag. If you want to drink the juice immediately after making it and want the juice to cool, refrigerate the pomegranate seeds in the bags for 20-30 minutes before the next step.
• Crush the seeds. The rolling pin perfectly squeezes the juice out of the seeds. While you crush the seeds to get all the juice, you need to do it with a little softness and finesse so you don't tear the bag. Work the seeds slowly and steadily until you begin to see the juice pooling in the bag and the pulp being removed with a movement.
• Strain the juice. Cut a small hole in the bottom corner of the bag and strain the pomegranate juice into a glass or other container. The juice will run out at first, then you may have to squeeze the bag to get all the juice out. Next, cut a large hole and pass the juice through a strainer. Mix with the reserved juice that you got from peeling the pomegranate. You can try putting the discarded pulp and seeds in a cheesecloth and swirling it until some of the remaining juice comes out. Although this may not yield much juice. The juice can be stored, covered and refrigerated, for several days. But in fact, it is perfect as soon as it is cooked.

Pomegranate Bonsai: Formation

Pomegranate tree trunk

Large varieties can be formed with wire, however, as long as active growth is underway. With active growth, the pomegranate bark actively thickens and becomes denser, so the wire must be removed in a timely manner. Otherwise, it will lead to scars that do not heal.

Start the wire wrapping at the base of the tree and wrap it around the trunk as an “anchor.” When the wire reaches the branch, the wire should be wound around it in the direction of the bend. Do not wrap too tightly to avoid damaging the bark.

Do not allow too much density of branches. They need good ventilation to prevent mold from appearing. If mold does develop, use a mild fungicide formulated to kill mold.

The trunk has a natural twist that gives a gnarled and ancient appearance that is highly prized in bonsai.

Pruning branches

Regular cutting of every first or third leaf will increase the plant's foliage. It is best to allow young shoots to mature and elongate before they are cut back to length.

Grenade using modular origami technique

How to make a spear with your own hands: from wood and paper?
If everything related to pyrotechnics causes justified concerns, you can make an origami grenade from 3D modules. For children's war games, such an imitation is quite enough. A modular grenade is an original gift for February 23, Airborne Forces Day and other “men’s” holidays.

You will need:

• 80 green modules, size 1/32;
• PVA glue.

Step-by-step instruction:

We assemble the 1st and 2nd rows from 8 modules. We close the resulting chain in a circle. We turn the part inside out so that the walls are almost vertical. In this case, the bottom of the “grenade” will resemble a daisy.

We fasten the next rows with short sides to long ones. Thanks to this technique, the workpiece takes on a barrel-shaped shape. In total we collect 8 - 9 rows. This is quite enough for the grenade’s silhouette to become expressive and recognizable. We make the handle from 8 modules, folding them in a “chain”. And glue it between the elements at the top of the figure.

We get something similar to the American Mk II hand grenade:

For reference

The Mk II fragmentation grenade (Mark II) appeared in service with the American army in 1918. By that time, the US Armed Forces, which entered the First World War on the side of the Entente, had already demonstrated their technical backwardness and poor organization. President Woodrow Wilson, having familiarized himself with the weapons of France and Great Britain, instructed the commander of the expeditionary forces, General John J. Pershing, to urgently begin military modernization.

American engineers were one of the first to develop the Mk I grenade, taking as a model the French F1 model, popular at the front, with a ribbed body and a capsule-type igniter. However, the projectile, created in a hurry, was structurally far from perfect. To activate it, complex manipulations were required, which in battle conditions did not always give the desired effect. In addition, 7 seconds passed between ignition and explosion - quite enough for the Germans to send American grenades back to the Allied positions. The fragmentation of the corpus also raised questions: 4 rows of 8 columns. When it exploded, the grenade produced few fragments and was therefore ineffective.

The improved Mk II model replaced its predecessor in 1918. Military engineers modified its body, increasing the number of rows to 5, and redesigned the ignition system. The Mark II grenade was loved by the armies of many countries, “went through” two world wars and was finally decommissioned only in 1967. Until the US-Japanese conflict in the Pacific, combat Mk IIs were painted bright yellow to distinguish them from training ones. However, during battles in the Philippine Islands, it was noticed that grenades in hot, humid climates quickly became moldy, causing them to smoke heavily and also make loud noises in flight. The Japanese reacted to the attack before the explosion occurred and threw the shells back. To avoid this, the Mk II began to be painted in dark olive tones.

Using the origami technique, you can make not only a grenade, but also a bomb from paper:

History of the creation of the grenade

This simple, in its design, means of defense for the infantryman has gone through an interesting path. Its story begins in France.

It was here in 1915 that a grenade was created under the designation F1.

It proved itself to be the best and was soon adopted into service in Russia.

In our country, during the first war, I mean World War II, of course, it was improved.

A new fuse of the Koveshnikov system was invented.

But the main changes occurred during Soviet times.

• In 1939, based on a French model, they invented their own F-1 grenade. The developer of the explosive device, engineer Khrameev, used the same operating principle. However, he simplified and made the body more perfect.
• The next stage in the improvement of the F-1 dates back to the beginning of the Great Patriotic War. It was at this time that designer E.M. Viceni created a simpler, more reliable and more advanced fuse. At the same time, he was safer than before.
• During the Second World War, namely in 1942, a “unified fuse for hand grenades” was also developed, which later became universal for several types of grenades.

After the war, the fuse was modernized and its modifications UZRGM 1, 2 are used in F-1, RG-42, and also RGD

Review of the handicraft grenade "Khattabka"

Basic ways to protect the population from damaging emergency factors

Detailed photos of the Khattabki grenade from VOG-17 and VOG-25

The “Khattabka” grenade got its name from Russian military personnel in Chechnya in 1991-2001, named after one of the field commander Khattab, who fought on the side of “Independent Ichkeria”. The Khattabka grenade often appeared in the media: the terrorist attack in Moscow on Dubrovka, the storming of a school in Beslan. Often appears during CTO when apprehending terrorists. To create grenades, as a rule, shots for the VOG-17/30 AGS and grenades for the VOG-25 under-barrel grenade launcher (and its other modifications) were used. The design and characteristics of the VOG-25 and VOG-17 explosions are designed to a greater extent to injure enemy personnel with shrapnel wounds and distract healthy soldiers from the battlefield to provide first aid and evacuate a wounded comrade.

The standard impact detonator was removed from the grenade and replaced with an UZRGM (standard fuse for RGD-5 and F-1 type grenades). The mass of explosives in the VOG-17 is 20-40 grams less than the F-1, so the Khattabka is inferior in power to the F-1 grenade. You can often see how a “khattabka” from VOG-17/30, after conversion, has a cartridge case with an expelling charge, which is of no use. A grenade was made from VOG-25 in approximately the same way - by replacing the standard detonator with an UZRGM fuse. The mass of the explosive was also inferior to the F-1 grenade, and the lethal effect was less, since aluminum fragments have less mass and strength. “Khattabkas” were used by Chechen militants like simple grenades. They were also used as mine traps and as tripwires. Often, grenades were additionally equipped with another safety device - a piece of medical plastic syringe, which was placed on top of the safety lever. The safety lock made from a piece of a syringe was convenient because during the fight there was no need to waste time bending the tendrils of the safety pin, although this upgrade is a kind of “trick” for the Khattabok, which does not affect the ease of use, since the tendrils can be bent before the fight The question remains why the militants converted captured VOGs to create the Hottabok, if their conversion requires UZRGM fuses, and they come complete with F-1 and RGD-5 grenades in wooden boxes, which means that the grenades also ended up in the hands of militants? Having full-fledged grenades, why waste time creating weaker grenades? According to some reports, fuses for grenades are taken from training grenades, which are not subject to strict accounting and their number is significantly greater than the number of grenades.

Technical characteristics of the Khattabka grenade from VOG-17/30

Technical characteristics of the Khattabka grenade from VOG-25

Working with wood (cuttings, handles, grenade models, etc.)

There are a lot of offers on the Internet for new-made handles for German spatulas, handles for beaters, and models of the beaters themselves, but that’s all there is to it. I decided to make the range wider and offer various products that no one else makes except me. I will say right away that the range is constantly expanding. In addition to what is shown in the photo and in the list, it is possible to produce products according to your sizes.

SECTION No. 1. Life-size wooden models of grenades.

All models are covered with primer and painted with Tikkurilla paint in the appropriate colors and shades.

— Model of the M-24 fragmentation grenade (“beater”).

It can be manufactured with a handle made of birch (price 650 rubles) or beech (price 700 rubles);

— Model of the M-24 smoke grenade.

It can be manufactured with a handle made of birch (price 650 rubles) or beech (price 700 rubles);

— Model of the M-39 fragmentation grenade (“egg”). Price 550 rubles.

Attached images

— Model of the M-41 fragmentation grenade.

It can be manufactured with a handle made of birch (price 550 rubles) or beech (price 600 rubles);

— Model of the M-32 fragmentation grenade (“drop”). Price 550 rubles.

— Model of the M-32 fragmentation grenade (“spindle”). Price 550 rubles.

Attached images

— Model of the F-1 fragmentation defensive grenade (“limonka”). Price 650 rubles.

— Model of the RG-42 offensive fragmentation grenade. Price 650 rubles.

Attached images

Section No. 2. Handles, handles and other spare parts.

For the most part, all products are coated with wax to protect them from moisture.

— Handles for fragmentation and smoke grenades M-24. There is a hole inside. It can be made from birch (price 200 rubles) or beech (price 250 rubles). It is also possible to manufacture with an imitation cap (the price does not change).

— Handlings for folding infantry blades. It can be made from birch (price 150 rubles) or beech (price 200 rubles).

— Cuttings for non-folding infantry blades. It can be made from birch (price 150 rubles) or beech (price 200 rubles).

Attached images

— cuttings for RIA infantry blades (only those with one wide ring fastening). Made from pine. Price 150 rubles.

— Cuttings for infantry blades of the Red Army. It can be manufactured with a round section at the top (price 150 rubles) or with an oval section (price 200 rubles).

— Half poles of the raincoat tent. Suitable for both the Red Army and the Wehrmacht. Price 300 rubles per piece.

— Handles for the Maxim system machine gun. Price per pair is 300 rubles.

Attached images

— Handles for Finnish M-41 grenades. It can be made from birch (price 200 rubles) or beech (price 250 rubles).

— Pegs for an American tent. Price 150 rubles.

— I forgot about the handle for the German M-43 grenade. Price 150 rubles.

Attached images

I would be grateful for feedback on product quality from those who purchased.

And, at the same time, I present another new product.

Model of a rather rare Finnish incendiary grenade M-43 NS. Price 650 rubles.

Attached images

I would be grateful for feedback on product quality from those who purchased.

Attached images

1. Adequacy at the highest level.

2. The quality is quite consistent with the price.

3. Client-oriented approach (set a task and they will help you)

I received the parcel at the highest level, thank you very much.

Let me remind you. Orders are accepted.

The man sharpens perfectly. I’ve already contacted him more than once, everything is at the highest level. THANK YOU.

The kit includes: a dummy mine body, a dummy fuse and 2 pegs. The price of the entire set is 850 rubles.

Attached images

I would be grateful for feedback on product quality from those who purchased.

Attached images

I am also interested in this question. I note that they are also suitable for Soviet blades with a ring, which were manufactured before 1942. I would take 5-6 such cuttings at least.

Source

Is it possible to transport homemade airsoft grenades and collect them at training grounds?

How to make a smoke bomb from flour and soda

If you took it to the test site disassembled, it is not an IED. But as soon as you put it together at the test site - an IED. Accordingly, if there are police officers at the test site, or someone gets injured from your homemade product, there will still be liability. And significantly higher than if these injuries were received from certified pyrotechnics. Therefore, the conclusion is: no, of course you can play the simulations yourself. But always remember that your actions fall under Article 223 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation, the terms for which are not even toy.

pyrotechnics, homemade airsoft grenades, IEDs

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Features of self-production of airsoft grenades

If you don’t have the money to buy one, then it’s quite possible to make an airsoft grenade at home. The resolution of this issue is carried out in several stages. To achieve a positive result, it is recommended to follow a certain sequence of actions.

Preparatory stage

Here you need to prepare the tools that may be needed when making an airsoft grenade with your own hands. In most cases, the list of required equipment will look like this:

Housing installation

To make a homemade case, you must first select a shape. For this purpose, you can use a deodorant can or other cylindrical object. Cardboard mugs are used as the base. The body is glued from strips of newspaper in several layers.

Homemade grenade, do-it-yourself features in this video:

Using internal filler and firecrackers

Matches are attached to the head of the firecracker, and the whole thing is glued into the body of the grenade. It is necessary to ensure that the structure is as strong as possible and does not wobble. The internal space is filled with balls.

Manufacturing process

Take 3 matches, apply glue to them with a heat gun and glue them to the box. You need to make 4 such blanks. On the side opposite to the heads, glue a match to the blanks. Then again take three matches, apply glue on top of them and spread it so that the matches stick together. These parts of the fuses are glued to the transverse match on top. After drying, the workpieces are additionally glued from the end. Then the fuses are torn off from the box. Firecrackers are being prepared. To do this, use a utility knife to remove the labels and glue the ends with a gun, without touching the ignition head. Igniters are made. To do this, cut off the graters from the boxes and glue them using double-sided wide tape to the prepared part of the plastic bottle. To avoid lifting the grater when pulling out the igniter, the edges of the grater are first glued with double-sided narrow tape, then additional simple narrow tape is applied on top. Then the workpiece is cut so that four igniters are obtained from one grater: first in half, and then along the grater

Important: when cutting the grater, do not bend it in half, as this will break it. A lot of such blanks for fuses, firecrackers, and igniters can be prepared, and directly during the manufacture of grenades they can be quickly cut and connected. Then the fuses are cut with wire cutters and glued to the firecrackers with a glue gun so that the bottom of the match heads is flush with the end of the firecracker

It is more convenient to glue the fuses on the side of the leftover paper from the box. Place the igniters between the matches of the fuse and clamp them with thin tape. The fuses are ready. The body is made by winding paper onto a mold of the required size. The paper is fixed with thin tape, and it can be wound at small intervals (about 5 mm). The bottom is folded into an envelope and secured crosswise with tape. Peas or used airsoft balls are poured into a prepared paper grenade (which is worse, because then, willy-nilly, the enemy is supplied with “ammunition”). Then the fuse is inserted all the way, the top is also folded into an envelope and the entire body of the grenade is tightly wrapped with narrow tape.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=iF4xf08tEMA

The grenade is ready!

This design of the fuse provides a complete guarantee that the firecracker will ignite and the grenade will explode, while the fingers will remain intact.

Fixing the body with tape will protect the paper from tearing when dropped, but will not prevent the balls from being released when a grenade explodes.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=lqgjnnoaQfg

When using such grenades, one should not forget about safety measures: avoid cases where grenades explode in the hand (this can lead to burns and even tear off fingers), and do not allow children to play with grenades.

Design of the RG-2 grenade

To make RG-2 grenades, the old “papier-mâché” method was used - scraps of newsprint measuring 1x2 cm were soaked in an adhesive composition (based on PVA glue), after which they were used to cover the inner surface of the mold. When the glue dried, the finished half of the grenade was removed from the mold.

Having thus produced a sufficient number of blanks, you can begin assembling RG-2 grenades. The two halves are folded and pasted over the perimeter with a strip of paper, after which shrapnel filler is poured into the resulting form and a firecracker is glued in. It should be noted that the internal volume of the grenade has increased significantly with the same external dimensions, which led to a significant increase in the number of “fragments”. It is quite difficult to light a firecracker directly by striking it with a box, so several matches should be tied to the sulfur head. Next, a carrying ring is installed, and the finished grenade is painted black, or a protective color. NOTE

The power of a firecracker should not be underestimated - the Corsair 4 is capable of smashing a beer bottle to smithereens. Be careful that the grenade doesn't explode in your hands!

How to make a paper grenade?

Airsoft players are usually interested in making paper grenades. They make them themselves so as not to waste money on ready-made analogues. In principle, making a paper grenade with your own hands is not such a difficult task. Let's try to master one of the options.

Paper grenade - master class

Grenade body

How to make such a grenade out of paper? Quite simple. Its body is made of cardboard. It has the shape of a cylinder, the height of which is equal to the height of the firecracker. To make this paper grenade, we need to print the following diagram on cardboard.

Cut out this figure, taking into account that the length of the solid part should be enough to roll it into a cylinder with a margin for a small allowance on one edge (up to 1 cm), since we will be gluing with an overlap.

The length of the triangles (protrusions) should be approximately 1 cm greater than the radius of the base of the cylinder. To roll this workpiece into a cylinder, it is advisable to use a mandrel.

All straight edges need to be glued together with an overlap, and then begin to bend the triangular protrusions along the dash-dot line shown in the diagram. Glue them one to the other. To strengthen the bottom, you can glue a circle of paper to it. Do not touch the second bottom of the cylinder yet.

Fuse and bursting charge

We will need:

• petard;
• matches;
• single sided tape.

Take a few matches and tape them to the firecracker so that all the heads are in contact with each other, leaving only one match in contact with the burning part of the firecracker.

Pin and trigger mechanism

We will need:

• plastic bottle;
• paper;
• scissors, stapler;
• threads;
• double sided tape.

First, cut a 5mm wide strip from the bottle and bend one side of it to form a loop. Secure it with a stapler - it is through this loop that you will pull the pin.

Next, cut a strip from the match striker along the width of the plastic strip, glue it with double-sided tape to this strip on the other side of the loop. Wrap the strip with threads to the firecracker on the side where the striker is located, while it should be pressed only to the first match. The striker will be pulled out, lighting the match.

Grenade assembly

To finally assemble the grenade, you will need:

• glue;
• peas;
• sharp knife.

So, let's move on to the final stage. To do this, cut out a rectangle in the finished bottom of the case approximately in the center with a knife - we will need to insert a plastic strip into it. We insert it with the ring forward. Next, apply a little glue to the end of the firecracker from the pin side, thread the pin into the hole in the bottom and glue the end of the firecracker.

We place our body with the open bottom up, pour peas inside and glue the second end. We close the second bottom in the same way as we did with the first. The top of the finished grenade is covered with paper. Now our homemade grenade is ready, we can go to “war”.

Origami - paper grenade

There are other ways to make a grenade out of paper; they are suitable for more peaceful purposes - to develop your abilities in the art of origami. Such grenades do not explode; they perform a purely decorative function. Your child can play with them with other boys, imagining themselves in battle. To make it, use the following diagram.

Another way to make a grenade is from a foam egg.

To make this grenade you need to have:

• foam egg;
• dark green paint;
• marker;
• brush;
• ring (receipt) from an old keychain;
• glue;
• cardboard;
• cutting knife.

We cut off the top part of the egg, paint it in a checkered pattern like on a real pomegranate, and use this design to make slits on the egg. We paint it carefully. Then we cut out a fuse from cardboard, attach it to the grenade, securing everything with a pin. The grenade is ready and it looks quite realistic. You can supplement your paper “arsenal” with a paper machine.

Types of grenades for airsoft

There is another classification of airsoft grenades. In this case, we will talk about various variations of products regarding their functional features. Based on these characteristics, grenades can be smoke, flash-noise, or filled with balls. Here you should also add shells for a grenade launcher, as well as grenades with and without an active pin.

Smoke

Such products are used to mask the source of fire. Through their use, it is possible to significantly limit visibility in a certain area and thus solve various tactical problems.

A smoke grenade consists of a paper body with two holes for the smoke to escape. A fire-resistant cord is used here as a moderator. These grenades can produce black or white smoke. In the first case, a car fire is simulated. Black smoke can spread over an area the equivalent of 15 m in diameter. When using white smoke, this figure increases to 20 m.

The cylindrical cardboard body of the grenade has special covers on both sides. There are holes for smoke exit at the bottom. A match inserted into the diaphragm is used as a fuse.

The smoke mixture that results from the explosion of such a grenade consists of various elements. These include:

Manual with balls

Using an airsoft hand grenade with balls allows you to simulate the fragmentation damage caused by a classic hand grenade. The internal space of the projectile is filled with plastic balls or ordinary peas (provided that the grenade is made at home).

Hand grenades have minimal weight, as a result of which their flight range is somewhat reduced. Moreover, hitting the target becomes more problematic. In this context, it is most advisable to use such projectiles to hit the enemy at a short distance. These grenades are perfect for large games when storming buildings, as well as when knocking out an opponent from fortifications.

Flash and noise

Stun grenades are capable of producing sound and light effects on the enemy. Here we can also talk about the temporary psychophysiological immobilizing effect of the projectile.

If you make your own projectile, it is recommended to refrain from using chemical reagents, since a strong flash can cause significant damage to a person’s vision and hearing.

Airsoft flashbang test:

The outer part of the grenade is covered with diode strips. To achieve the highest quality fastening, high-quality adhesive-sealant is applied to such tapes. This allows us to talk about the long service life of the product in various conditions.

Grenade for grenade launcher

Airsoft grenades for a grenade launcher can have different sizes. The dimensions of the projectile will depend on the grenade launcher for which it is intended. The polyurethane foam body of the product consists of three separate parts. The grenade itself is placed in a special sleeve, which consists of a reservoir for compressed inert gas and a guide barrel.

The latter is distinguished by the presence of helical grooves that engage with the grooves on the body. Thanks to this, the grenade can rotate around its own axis during flight. Most often, a refill is included with the sleeve.

If we talk about the principle of operation, then at the initial stage the compressed gas fills the entire space of the tank and gradually puts pressure on the valve. Subsequently, he tends to shift it towards the bottom of the sleeve. At the same time, special balls acting as clamps prevent such movement. The valves remain in place thanks to the presence of a stopper.

As a result of this displacement, access to the guide barrel opens. It is this element that is responsible for pushing the grenade out of the cartridge case.

After firing the shot, the stopper, valves and grenade launcher retaining balls return to their original position under the influence of a spring. To carry out the next shot, additional gas filling must be carried out.

With and without an active check

The body of airsoft grenades can be made of various materials.

In most cases, we are talking about polymers that do not cause serious damage when broken.

Robust monolithic construction avoids deformation during operation. The internal filling of the product depends on the type of grenade.

Test of airsoft grenades with an active pin in this video:

Airsoft grenades without an active pin are not very popular. This trend is due to the lack of practicality when using the product. It should be noted that this grenade also has a pin, but in this case it will serve a purely decorative function.

It is very difficult to predict the exact time of operation of such a projectile, so certain difficulties may arise during its operation. Resolving tactical problems will be somewhat more complicated.

Preparing a charge for a paper grenade

To prepare the charge and fuse, take matches and tape them to the firecracker. In this case, the matches should touch each other with their heads, and only one of them should be in contact with the part of the firecracker that is to be ignited.

Now you can proceed to preparing the trigger mechanism and checks. To do this, a strip is cut out of a plastic bottle, the width of which should be approximately five millimeters. One end of this strip is fastened with a stapler in the shape of a loop. It will come in handy when you pull the pin. Also, a brown strip is cut out of a matchbox and glued to the other end of a previously prepared strip of plastic. The same end should be tied to the firecracker so that the cardboard strip from the matchbox is in close contact with the first match.

Design of the RG-1 grenade

The main idea underlying our hand grenades is the use of Chinese firecrackers of sufficient power certified in the Russian Federation (Corsair 4-6) placed in a decorative case with “fragmentation” filling.

Initially, attempts were made to use construction foam for the manufacture of grenade bodies, but some properties of the foam itself did not allow this to be done. Firstly, the foam hardens when the solvent evaporates from it - if you pour the foam into a sealed form, it will remain in a liquid state for an indefinitely long time. Secondly, on the firecracker, when it was placed in the mold, a bag was made of food foil for fragmentation filling, which was used as peas (in fact, do not supply the besieged with explosive balls!), and so, this very bag interferes with the uniform filling the mold with foam. Thirdly, when the foam hardens, it contracts, and if it is not “tightly” stuck to the mold, then some kind of wrinkled lump will be removed from the mold. This is exactly what the RG-1 series hand grenades were like.

Structure of a grenade

The lemon grenade, like most anti-personnel grenades, contains three main parts:

1. Frame. It has an oval shape with a ribbed surface made of thick cast iron. When ruptured, the rib layer scatters into fragments of a certain mass and size, which have an initial speed of 730 m/sec. Total weight 600 g.
2. Substance for explosion. TNT with a mass of 60 g is used. Trinitrophenol is sometimes used. In this case, the ability to destroy increases, but the shelf life in warehouses decreases; if the period expires, an explosion may occur. The explosive is separated from the metal casing by paper, varnish or paraffin.
3. Fuse. His UZRGM brand has a universal structure and is suitable for other types of grenades. The fuse hole is covered with a plastic plug during weapon storage.

Armament

The performance characteristics and design of the F-1, RGD-5, RGO, RGN grenades and UZRGM, UDZ fuses are given.

Hand fragmentation grenades are designed to destroy enemy personnel with shrapnel in close combat (in open areas, in trenches or communication passages, when fighting in a populated area, in a forest or mountains). Depending on the range of scattering of fragments, grenades are divided into offensive (RGD-5, RGN) and defensive (F-1, RGO). Hand fragmentation grenades are equipped with UZRGM (modernized unified hand grenade fuse) and UDZ (impact-remote fuse) fuses.

F-1 hand fragmentation grenade

The F-1 hand fragmentation grenade is a remote-action grenade designed to destroy manpower primarily in defensive combat. You can throw a grenade from various positions and only from behind cover, from an armored personnel carrier or a tank (self-propelled artillery unit).

RGD-5 hand fragmentation grenade

The RGD-5 hand fragmentation grenade is a remote-action grenade designed to destroy enemy personnel on the offensive and in defense. Throwing a grenade is carried out from various positions when operating on foot and on an armored personnel carrier (vehicle).

The RGD-5 hand fragmentation grenade consists of a body with a tube for a fuse, a bursting charge and a fuse. The body of the grenade serves to house the explosive charge, the fuse tube, and also to form fragments when the grenade explodes. It consists of two parts - upper and lower. The upper part of the body consists of an outer shell, called a cap, and a cap liner. An igniter tube is attached to the upper part using a cuff. The tube serves to attach the fuse to the grenade and to seal the explosive charge in the body. To protect the tube from contamination, a plastic plug is screwed into it. When preparing a grenade for throwing, instead of a plug, a fuse is screwed into the tube. The lower part of the housing consists of an outer shell, called the pan, and a pan liner. The explosive charge fills the body and serves to break the grenade into fragments.

F-1 and RGD-5 hand fragmentation grenades are equipped with a modernized unified fuse for hand grenades (UZRGM).

Unified hand grenade fuse modernized UZRGM

The UZRGM grenade fuse (modernized unified hand grenade fuse) is intended to explode a bursting charge.

It consists of a striking mechanism and the fuse itself.

In official use, the striker is constantly cocked and held by the trigger lever fork. The trigger lever is connected to the percussion mechanism tube by a safety pin. Before throwing a grenade, the plastic plug is turned out and the fuse is screwed in its place.

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RGO fragmentation grenade

RGN fragmentation grenade

RGO and RGN hand-held fragmentation grenades are equipped with a shock-remote UDZ fuse

Impact-remote fuse UDZ

Myths about homemade starkball grenades.

Having read the latest topics about homemade imitations, with some surprise to myself, I came across some misconceptions regarding the legality of their self-production.

Myth 1: the composition used in firecrackers is not an explosive.

As the name suggests, this is a myth. Why? Because firecrackers contain gunpowder as a moderator and potassium perchlorate mixed with magnesium as a pyrotechnic composition. Both gunpowder and potassium perchlorate mixed with magnesium (and other perchlorate explosives) are quite explosive substances.

Myth 2: After all, imitations are sold freely and firecrackers can also be bought, which means imitations can also be bought. There is a huge difference between certified pyrotechnic products and IEDs based on these products - certification. If a pyrotechnic product is manufactured in accordance with GOST R 51270-99 Pyrotechnic Products and certified in accordance with GOST R 51271-99 Pyrotechnic Products.

Methods of certification tests" for classes from 1 to 3 - you can buy these products freely (this is how 4 Corsair is certified, as well as products from Strikecard and other manufacturers), if they are certified for classes 4 and 5, then you, if they are certified for Class 4 and 5 then you, if you do not have a license issued for the enterprise, should not sell them and there is liability for selling without a license. The pyrotechnics crust allows you to work with 4-5 graders in a company with a license and, as people say, shoot fireworks.

If you have manufactured a device yourself, even in accordance with the first standard, but have not passed certification tests in accordance with the second, you have made something incomprehensible that explodes. Accordingly, any police officer has the right to detain you and seize your products for forensic examination.

Well, then everything depends on your luck, because the main features of the IED classification are:

1) one-time use - our homemade products fully satisfy this parameter.

2) use of explosion energy - our homemade product fully satisfies this parameter.

3) manufacturing in both industrial and homemade (handicraft) ways - as we see, an uncertified product from a factory is also an IED.

4) intended for hitting people or destroying, damaging various kinds of objects for criminal purposes - here you will laugh, but causing damage with balls is still a defeat. plus, from the influence of 4 corsairs you can get hearing damage and this is also a defeat for people, and if your grenade also smolders after the explosion, then everything is completely bad.

5) the explosive charge and the means of exploding it must be structurally combined with each other into one material and technical system suitable for explosion - hence the conclusion: if you assemble everything into one device and transport it like that, it is an IED.

If you drilled a hole in a firecracker and inserted an electric match - an IED.

Other types of game grenades

Grenades in airsoft are perhaps the most discussed and “problematic” topic. There are no ready-made samples with acceptable characteristics produced in Russia, and importing imported ones for one-time use is too expensive. We have already written about two types of grenades - polyurethane foam and papier-mâché. Since then, significant work has been carried out to improve them, and the time has come to restore some semblance of order in this matter.

The description is given from simple to complex; First, the designs of the housings are described, then the reusable fuses are described. It is assumed that all grenades are equipped with 3 or 4 corsair numbers and are filled with peas. We believe that this is sufficient for most applications. However, extreme sports fans can build defensive grenades on number 6, filled with 0.43-gram balls (for reference, the average weight of a pea is about 0.17 g). Airsoft rules allow this. But remember that already the 8th “corsair” that exploded in your hand tears off your fingers! (I don’t believe it! - Bakster)

Primitive (training) designs (type “A”)

They are used for regular training and training of personnel, that is, where the surroundings fade into the background, and low cost and ease of manufacture come first. Today we know of 2 main types of simple grenades.

RGF-1

(Handmade, pea, foil). We do not have reliable information about the authors of this design. Presumably, it was developed in Moscow. Consists of firecrackers, foil, peas. Manufacturing method: foil is wrapped in one or two layers (depending on thickness) around a pipe of suitable diameter (3-4 cm). It is crimped on one side, then a firecracker is centered inside (number 3 or 4), and the peas are poured in. Then the other side is crimped so that the fuse of the firecracker sticks out. For more reliable ignition, it is recommended to attach 2-4 matches to the firecracker. The grenade is ready for use. It is possible to equip with a reusable igniter.

GShG-1

(ball grenade, pea grenade). We first encountered this design from the Moscow Grenadiers team. Consists of firecrackers, peas and a balloon. Manufacturing method: peas are poured into a balloon (not inflated!), a firecracker is inserted and thread is wrapped around the neck.

Entourage structures (type “B”)

Recommended for use at official and any big games.

RGR-1

(experienced). It was made in a single copy in order to test the concept and test the design of the fuse. Successfully passed bench tests. Consists of firecrackers, peas and two Rastishka jars. Manufacturing method: the top of two celluloid jars is cut off so that the total height of the firecracker (3rd number). A hole is cut in the upper half into which the ZVS-1 fuse is inserted (see description below). Next, a strip is bent on the side of one of the halves and filled with peas. After this, the halves are connected with PIECES of electrical tape, and the fuse on top is closed with a special lid (Fig. 1) and also fixed with electrical tape.

Flaws:

high cost of the case (two Rastishkas, minus the cottage cheese eaten).

RGS-42

(experienced). It was made in two copies in order to test the concept and test the design of the fuse. Bench tests revealed unreliable fastening of the bottom part of the housing.

Consists of firecrackers, peas and a body made of thick paper (Whatman paper). The body is cylindrical, reminiscent in shape of a tin can or an RG-42 grenade. It was equipped with a special modification of the ZVS-1 fuse (see Fig. 2). The first sample was equipped with a ZGS-1 fuse.

MS-67.

One of the most attractive designs (Fig. 3). A batch of 15-20 pieces was made. for use at the opening of the 2002 season at the Big Game in Podosinki, but due to objective circumstances it was not used there. Consists of firecrackers, peas and a spherical “toy” ice cream shell. Semi-finished five- and hexagonal fragments are applied to the body. Equipped with ZGS-3 igniter. After filling with peas and installing the fuse, the lid must be glued.

Approximate characteristics:

Diameter……………………………………………………….65 mm Weight……………………………………………………………… 120g Pea filling coefficient (by weight)………..0.83 Radius of scattering of fragments (on the 4th number)……………up to 4 m

Flaws:

complexity of preparing hulls;
large dimensions (does not fit into some pockets for grenades). Advantages:
high filling factor, good surroundings.

Fuses for airsoft grenades

In our opinion, setting a grenade on fire with a lighter or even a cigarette in the 21st century is, to say the least, uncivilized. Unless, of course, you win back the army of Peter the Great. Ideally, the fuse should imitate the operation of the real thing. The first attempt was made to create the RGS-42 with the ZGS-1 fuse, but it failed. Research in this direction was continued after reading an article about grenades on the KBP website. I quote:

Components:

firecracker, box of matches, office tape (narrow).
Manufacturing method:
1. Pour out matches and cut off the sides of the box. We glue a strip of tape on the back side of each side panel. This increases their strength. 2. We wrap 3-4 matches to the firecracker, along the body, with their heads towards the fuse. Now, without cutting the tape, turn it over with the back side (glue) facing out. 3. We apply the sidewall along the matches with the composition inside, a piece of 1-1.5 cm should protrude above the heads of the matches. We wrap it with the back side of the tape (film without glue). Make one turn, turn the tape over, make another turn on top of the tape. Cut off the tape. 4. The grenade is ready. Now, if you sharply pull out the side panel by the part protruding upward, it will come into contact with the heads of the matches, and their intense burning will be initiated by the firecracker retardant

The described ignition method was modernized by me as follows: strips from the sides of a matchbox are attached to a bent strip (15 cm long and 7-8 mm wide), as shown in Figure 2, cut from a tin can (for example). Further, all manipulations are performed as described above. You can put a key ring into the top part, although the fuse works without it. It should be noted that ALL metal parts of the fuse are removed from the grenade before throwing (this will ignite the retardant). The main problem in manufacturing is to ensure that the firecracker remains motionless when the pin is pulled out. Its solution depends on the design of the grenade body. The fuse thus obtained was named ZVS-1

(vertical airsoft fuse). The fuse works quite reliably, and it can also be stored loaded into a grenade for a long time - one of the samples lay for several months before being used. The surroundings are also quite good.

Meanwhile, the commander of the 2nd squadron (Legacy) Bitner continued to develop horizontal fuses. As a result, he came up with ZGS-2. The idea is quite simple: a regular rubber band is placed along the firecracker, a striker with a ring is pressed against the retarder (and matches screwed to the firecracker), and a cardboard spacer wrapped in foil is installed between it and the rubber band. When you pull out the striker, it is pressed with a rubber band against the matches and sets them on fire, and at the same time the retarder. The fuse has two serious drawbacks: it is impossible to store a loaded grenade for a long time, and there is a high risk of unauthorized operation (if the striker is accidentally displaced). Therefore, when creating the MS-67 grenades, the ZGS-3 version was developed. Unlike ZGS-2, the elastic band does not cover the entire firecracker, but is attached in a special way to the upper part of the grenade body, allowing it to be loosened during storage (see Fig. 4). However, the risk of unauthorized operation remains.

In addition to the designs discussed above, we know of the existence of industrially produced “grenades” that can be used for airsoft purposes. The photo shows a grenade produced in Sergiev Posad. It has a standard grating fuse (based on the principle of a child's firecracker), a body made of thin polyethylene can accommodate about 50 explosive balls, and the design uses a firecracker similar to the third number of the Corsair.

So, we examined the state of domestic development of hand-held airsoft grenades and fuses for them in the summer of 2002. We hope to update this topic in the near future. If you have any materials and developments, send them to us, or provide links - we will publish them.

Remember, whatever you do, your actions should not cause harm to another person.

Airsoft is an exciting military-themed entertainment that is not complete without various noise and smoke effects. To create them, the F1 airsoft grenade is most often used. However, it is not at all necessary to spend money on purchasing such expensive ammunition every time. If you have a strong desire, tools and consumables, you can make an airsoft grenade with your own hands. Let's figure out how to make an effective and safe projectile with your own hands from available materials.

The second technology for making paper grenades

We'll tell you how to make a grenade out of paper in a different way. It takes longer than previous technology. However, the result visually resembles a real grenade. There are also few items used for manufacturing. We don't need anything super complicated for this. So, how to make a grenade out of paper using this technology? To prepare our craft, you need to take an egg from polystyrene foam and cut off its upper part. Then, based on it, we draw cells, like on the original grenade. According to this drawing, you need to pick out the egg and paint it. You need to choose paint of a color that matches the color of a real grenade. Next, all explosive parts are cut out of cardboard. All this is fastened together, and a check is hung on top.

These simple methods answer the question of how to make a grenade out of paper at home, as well as what additional materials are needed. All this is not difficult to do, you just need to use your imagination and be patient, and there are plenty of tools for preparing your home. We hope that these methods of making a grenade are of interest to you, and you will try to translate these ideas into reality. Happy crafting!

The result of preparing a grenade

At the last stage of preparing our grenade, we return to its already finished bottom. In the center of the bottom you will need to make a hole in the shape of a rectangle for the plastic loop to come out. After this, glue is applied from the end of the firecracker near the pin, and the pin is threaded into a rectangular hole in the bottom of the grenade. The body is filled with peas, the second end of the firecracker is sealed. Then the grenade is closed with a second bottom using glue. This simple technology shows how to make a grenade out of paper without much effort. However, this method is not unique.

Paper models: domestic transport

Format: PDF, JPG, Scanned pagesGenre: OrigamiLanguage: Russian Description: Many designs of domestic cars and trams for gluing from paper. The set includes: ZAZ: 969, 966, 968a, 968MP, 1102″Tavria”, 1105″Dana”, 1103″Slavuta”LuAZ: 969A, 1302, 13021-08, 13021-04,VAZ: 21011, 2106, 210 4 , 2107, 2121″Niva”, 2131″Niva”, 1111″Oka”, 1111″Oka-Lady”, 2101″CityMotorsport”, 2101″CityMotorsport” (in Nürburgring “combat” livery), 2102, 2103, 2108″Web Hobby", 2109 DPS, 21099, 2108″Natasha", 2113, 2114, 2115, 2114 DPSGAZ: 66, 3302″Gazelle", 2705″Gazelle", 3221″Gazelle" (“Minibus…

15Sep2017

Preparation fuse

How to make an airsoft grenade with your own hands? First you need to make a fuse. To do this, take several matches, the heads of which are located flush with the incendiary composition of the firecracker. All this is connected into one structure using thread. Additionally, you can glue matches to the body of the firecracker.

The grater for igniting matches is carefully cut from the boxes and connected with glue to the prepared strips. The presence of such a fuse allows you to quickly activate airsoft grenades during a battle.

Device

Filler. The filler for the balls is a mixture of water, glycerin, propylene glycol, titanium dioxide, starch and 2 types of polyethylene glycols. This substance is water soluble. To give the filler color, use 6 food colors in different proportions. Fluorescent pigments are also used to make traces of the ball visible in the dark. The filler is thick enough that it does not run off the surface of the target. The dye does not leave stains on clothes after washing.

Shell. The capsule of paintball balls is made of gelatin - a mixture of protein substances of animal origin. It is odorless and tasteless and can be transparent or yellowish in color. When placed in cold water, gelatin does not dissolve and swells; As a result of heating, a sticky solution is formed from the swollen gelatin, which hardens into a jelly, so it is recommended to store paintballs at a temperature of +20°C...+22°C and a humidity of less than 65%. The gelatin shell of the balls can withstand instantaneous acceleration from 0 to 324 km/h in a 35-centimeter paintball marker barrel.

How to care for a pomegranate bonsai tree

In order for a bonsai to grow for decades, it is important to regularly care for it:

1. Watering. The pomegranate is watered as the top layer of soil dries. In shallow, wide containers this happens faster than in regular deep pots. Water with warm, settled water so that the soil is moistened but not flooded. In summer, the soil is moistened more often than in winter.
2. Trimming. Once every 2-3 years, weak, diseased and dry branches are removed. Old large leaves are periodically picked off.
3. Transfer. The bonsai is transplanted into a new container every 3-4 years. The new pot should be slightly larger and deeper than the previous one. When replanting, the trees are cut back by 1/3, removing dry and old shoots.
4. Temperature. In summer, pomegranate feels comfortable at a temperature of +20...25°C. In winter, it is recommended to reduce the readings to +12…15°C.
5. Bloom. During the first flowering, the flowers are cut off so that the plant does not die. To get fruits, it is recommended to additionally pollinate the flowers with a brush.
6. Feeding. From early spring to mid-autumn, fertilizing is applied once every 1-2 weeks, alternating special fertilizers for pomegranate or bonsai and chicken manure diluted 1:10. In winter, pomegranates are not fed.

In winter, pomegranate sheds its leaves.

This is interesting:

A step-by-step guide to propagating pomegranate from cuttings at home.

What is the difference between clementines and tangerines and which is healthier.