Do-it-yourself drill stand: TOP-5 design schemes

What should a drill stand be like?

The machine should be easy to use and not limit the capabilities of the drill, but rather expand them.
The right stand allows you to not only drill holes in walls, but also mill parts. Also, a drill stand for a drill, made by yourself, must be stable and correctly guide the drill. It should not move during operation, otherwise the holes will be made at an angle. But using a high-quality bed, it is possible to drill holes at an angle. Some commercial models allow you to create holes with an inclination of up to 65 degrees.

Other qualities that a drill stand should have include:

• Possibility of adjusting the tool height
• Ability to absorb vibrations and vibrations emanating from the drill
• Solid base for stability
• Fixed hole depth

Not all tools presented in stores can combine power and reliability. And those that are capable of this will be very expensive. You can combine several functions at once by making a drill stand with your own hands.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself drill stands have a number of advantages over purchased ones. Not only do they cost much less, but they are loaded with features. Making such a device will not be difficult even for inexperienced craftsmen. And if you have questions, you can always use the detailed instructions for creating a drilling machine with your own hands.

Summary

Article Name

DIY stand for drill - detailed instructions, drawings, video

Description

✅Article on how to make a stand for a drill yourself ➜—✅ Homemade drill stand made of wood for a drill with your own hands ➜—✅ Drawings ➜— ✅ Video

Author

Sarychev Alexander Viktorovich - forensic construction and technical expert, candidate of technical sciences

Publisher Name

Wikipedia of construction tools

Publisher Logo

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Why do you need a drill stand?

The stand allows you to easily perform various tasks such as angle or perpendicular drilling with a hand drill. It is also adjustable so you can drill holes at precise points in gradual increments.

They can hold tools horizontally so you can sand different shaped workpieces, sand different sized pieces of metal, or polish metal objects with different shapes and aspects. They offer telescopic adjustment to provide different drilling heights and allow you to work with a variety of power tools. You can change the angle of the tool holder clamp, turning it easily while still locking firmly when needed to ensure accuracy. You must have one if you want your workstation to have a good maximum height to accommodate a variety of tools.

How to insert a drill correctly?

To correctly insert the drill into the chuck, you need to know the following. The hole intended for clamping the tool is no more than 2 cm deep. The deeper the drill is set, the more securely it will hold in the chuck. There are two types of chuck clamping mechanisms:

• manual, tightened by hand;
• key, wrapped with a key.

In recent years, household drill models have been equipped with a manual (quick-release) chuck - it is simpler in design and quicker to operate.

To install the drill in the chuck you need to follow these steps:

1. Turn the cartridge counterclockwise. The jaws should move apart to a distance slightly larger than the diameter of the drill.
2. Insert the drill bit between the jaws until it stops.
3. Smoothly turn the chuck clockwise, making sure that the drill is clamped evenly on all sides.
4. Tighten the jaws by hand or with a wrench.

Video: how to insert a drill and secure it

When fixing the drill in the chuck, considerable force can be applied, especially if the drill has a large diameter. It should be remembered that you will then have to do the reverse operation to remove the drill or replace it with another one. When clamping the drill, look for the “golden mean”: fasten the drill securely, but so that it can be removed from the chuck without any problems. The required effort is easily determined after a little practice - muscle memory kicks in.

Advantages and disadvantages of a homemade stand

The following advantages of homemade devices are highlighted:

• A homemade machine is very cheap.
• When constructing the device, you can use parts left over from old equipment.
• All drawings and detailed manufacturing algorithms can be found in the public domain.
• You can make a very high-quality and technologically advanced model. You have the opportunity to make a truly high-quality device.

However, there are also disadvantages:

• To manufacture parts, special equipment will be required.
• If the guide is of poor quality, this will greatly affect the drilling accuracy.
• It is very difficult to make a mechanism superior in quality and functionality to the factory one.

Guide bed

The bed is one of the most important parts of a drill machine. It can be constructed of metal or wood. The thickness and dimensions of the frame depend on the weight of the structure and the tool. The size of the bed also depends on the type of operations performed on the machine:

• Dimensions 50 by 50 millimeters are used for drilling.
• 100 to 50 for more complex operations.

A stand is attached to the frame, which can be attached using screws; it is important to understand that it must be strong enough

Guide post

The stand can also be made of wood or metal. It consists of guides (a rail for tool movement) and a clamp for fixing the tool at the same level. Its production proceeds as follows:

• Secure the stand to the frame.
• Attaching the guide to the rack.
• Install the carriage, which should be located on the guides.

The tool can be mounted on a stand using clamps or a special block

Required Parts

Let's figure out how to make a lathe from a drill with your own hands

Any drill stand, regardless of its dimensions and taking into account the purpose of such devices, has basic structural elements, each of which performs its own functions and must meet certain requirements.

• The bed is one of the main components of the described equipment, which is its base (stand) and ensures the stability of the entire structure. In addition, a vice is located on the bed for fixing the workpieces being processed. The weight and dimensions of this element depend on the power of the tool used and the list of tasks performed.
• A guide post, which is positioned strictly vertically in relation to the base. Even with a slight deviation, the workpiece being processed can be damaged and the drill or cutter can be broken. Depending on the design features of a particular model, this part can be made of different materials.

• Movement mechanism. There are no strict requirements for the design of this node; templates are not applied. Its main task is to ensure smooth movement, secured with brackets or clamps of the drilling tool along the tripod. There are many variations of such mechanisms.
• Holder for equipment (drill, hammer drill, screwdriver). Clamps, blocks and other mounting elements are used as effective fastening.

Making a device yourself

You can build a drill stand yourself. First you need to decide on the main parts of the device:

• table top;
• vertical guide part;
• tool mount;
• mechanism for raising or lowering;
• lever.

The stand is made in two possible versions - wooden or metal. For the first version of the device you will need the following materials:

• sheet of wood 20 mm thick;
• a rod for installing a structure for raising and lowering the drill;
• 20 short screws;
• 30 long screws;
• glue for gluing wood;
• hacksaw;
• clamp;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• sandpaper for sanding the product.

A wooden drill stand is only suitable if you just need to drill holes in objects. Otherwise, it is recommended to construct a metal device. To do this you should prepare:

• bed;
• stand;
• handle;
• additional parts of the device to increase its functionality.

The size of the drill mount depends on the diameter of its neck.

This drill stand is quite easy to make. And if you expand it, it will perform many more functions. Before you begin manufacturing the structure, you need to study the drawings and understand the technological nuances.

Manufacturing of additional units

Modernizing the design will make it possible to obtain a multifunctional machine on which you can mill small parts and drill holes at an angle.

To mill a part, it must be moved to the side. To do this, an additional horizontal stand is fixed to the slab. A vice is attached to it, moving on a carriage with furniture guides. The control handle can be made similar to a spring or a screw mechanism can be installed.

To drill holes at an angle of 30, 45 and 60°, an additional plate is installed. It is made rotary, for which holes are drilled along an arc. Fix the plate to the main stand of the machine, where it will rotate along the axis. A carriage with a feed mechanism is attached to the additional plate.

A protractor will help you correctly measure the location of the holes. The central hole for the axle is taken as a basis and points are measured from it at the required angles.

During turning and straight drilling, the additional plate is positioned horizontally. To drill at an angle, the plate is rotated to the desired hole. The additional plate is fixed with screws on the back side of the rack.

The simplest design allows you to get a multifunctional machine at home, on which you can mill small parts and drill holes at different angles.

Sources:

https://usamodelkina.ru/15691-sverlilnyj-stanok-iz-dreli.html https://instrumentiks.ru/sovety/stojka-dlya-dreli

How to choose material

Before making a homemade product to attach a drill, select the required material. For this you will need:

• thick pine wood board;
• plywood 15 mm thick;
• furniture guides;
• metal profile sheet;
• automotive bushing;
• metal pipe;
• wing nut;
• bolts and screws for fastening parts.

All of the above materials must be prepared in advance so that they are at hand.

Vertical tool holders

Every craftsman strives to organize his workplace so that the tools are at arm's length. This is facilitated by vertical holders.

Wrench holder

1. A wooden plank is attached to the wall above the workbench. The rail is screwed with screws into dowels installed in advance.
2. Small nails are driven into the strip at intervals equal to the width of the wrench handles.
3. The keys are hung on the rail.
4. Nail heads hold keys horizontally and vertically.

Screwdriver holder

1. In a piece of timber 40 x 40 mm, holes are drilled corresponding to the diameters of screwdrivers, at a distance of 30 - 40 mm from each other.
2. A piece of timber is nailed to the wall with dowels so that the holes are located vertically.
3. Screwdrivers are inserted into the resulting sockets. Now you can quickly get the tool you need without leaving your workplace.

Chisel belt

1. The plank is secured to the wall with dowels.
2. The belt or belt is nailed to the bar so that unique through pockets are obtained.
3. Chisels are lowered into the pockets, through which only steel blades pass. The handles are held in place by a belt.

The device can hold hammers, pliers, pliers and other tools.

Homemade soldering iron stand

When working with a soldering iron, a situation arises when you need to put the tool down. Placing a soldering iron with a hot tip on a tabletop or on any object is always risky. A homemade stand will solve this problem.

An example of making a stand for a soldering iron

1. The holder is made of wire in the form of a spiral. To do this, unbend a wire clothes hanger.
2. The wire is wound around a cylindrical object with a diameter of 1.5 - 2 cm. The handle of a chisel or other tool will do.
3. On one side of the spring there is a free end of the wire.
4. The end is bent into a loop with pliers.
5. For the base of the stand, take a board 200 x 100 x 20 mm.
6. A through hole ø 4 mm is drilled at the base.
7. A hole is drilled from the back of the board with a large drill for a countersunk screw head.
8. The screw is threaded from bottom to top.
9. Place the spring loop on the screw and tighten the nut.
10. Circles are cut into the board using a crown to fit the size of a cup for candles or similar products.
11. Using a chisel, make a sample of wood in 3 recesses.
12. Cups are inserted into the openings, which are filled with solder, tin and a napkin to clean the tip.
13. The soldering iron is inserted into the spring.
14. A small hole is made in the board for attaching a flexible steel cord from a lamp.
15. A clamp is attached to the end of the cord, which is used to secure various parts for soldering.

The design may have a different look - it all depends on the imagination and ingenuity of the author.

What parts will the device consist of?

Drill holders must have the following components:

• Stanin. This is the main supporting element of the future machine.
• Stand. It is necessary for fastening the carriage with the drill and its movement.
• Movement mechanism. The most common option is a special handle. With its help, you can move the drill to the part to be drilled.
• Additional nodes. With their help you can expand the capabilities of the rack.

How to make a bed?

Homemade holders for drills must be installed on stable frames. To make this unit, you can use a steel plate 1 cm thick or a durable wooden board, the thickness of which should be at least 2 cm. A thick piece of chipboard, plywood or textolite is also suitable for this purpose.

The massiveness of the bed depends on the power of the power tool. The higher it is, the thicker the base should be. It is desirable that the width of the frame be 200 mm and the length 500-750 mm. The main vertical stand and support should be attached to the horizontal frame using screws or screws.

It is recommended to screw these machine parts from below through the frame.

Holders for drills will be stronger if their racks are additionally connected to supports with metal corners.

How is the stand made?

Drill holders must be equipped with stands. The quality of drilling work will depend on the quality of manufacturing of this unit in the future.

To prevent the drill from deflecting, and, therefore, from damaging the workpiece and breaking, it is important for the craftsman to maintain a strict vertical line in relation to the bed when making the stand.

You can make a vertical guide post from a block, plywood plate, pipe or metal profile. It all depends on imagination and the availability of the necessary material.

DIY drill holder

Drill holder. This is a simple device for those who do not have sandpaper. It will be useful for any master.

Travel mechanism

The drill holder for vertical drilling must be equipped with a special mechanism with which you can move the tool. This mechanism consists of two elements:

• Handles. With its use, the drill is brought to the surface of the workpiece.
• Springs. With its help, the drill returns to its original position after drilling. It is important that lifting the bracket with the drill is smooth and that drilling does not become tiring.

Arrangement of additional nodes

If you add additional attachments to your homemade machine, you can use it to perform simple turning and milling technological operations, as well as drill holes at an angle. In order for these works to be accessible, the master should provide the ability to move the workpiece in a horizontal plane.

This is possible using a movable horizontal barrel on which a vice is installed to hold the workpiece. The barrel is driven by rotating the handle. In order to drill holes at an angle, homemade machines are additionally equipped with special rotary plates containing holes in an arc. With their help, the workpieces are fixed.

To cope with this work, the master should perform the following steps:

• Drill an axial hole on the additional rotary plate and machine stand.
• Using a protractor, drill the pivot plate at angles of 30, 45 and 60 degrees.
• Equip the rack with three holes into which the pivot plate pins will be inserted. With their help, the rotating and stationary parts of the machine will be fixed in the future.

To make a hole at the required angle, just turn the electric drill attached to the additional plate to the desired angle and fix the tool in this position using pins.

Equipment for additional functions

To use a drill stand as a milling machine, you need to use the horizontal version of the bed presented in the previous paragraph. To such a machine you need to add a rotating plate. This is where the tool will be located. Then a hole is made in the stand stand into which the carriage with drill will be inserted.

Next, holes are drilled on the rotating plate at the most popular angles. Connect the rotating plate and the stand exactly along the holes. Bolts are used for connection. You also need to make three holes on the stand post into which pins will be inserted to install the rotating plate.

To use such a machine, you need to rotate the plate into the desired position, secure it with pins and start working.

TOP - 5 diagrams and drawings of a stand for a drill

The most popular drawings and diagrams of drill stands on the Internet:

Overview of standard sizes of racks for electric drills

There are known designs of devices both domestic (from the brands Kraton, Caliber, Enkor, etc.) and imported - from companies in Germany, China and Bulgaria. Let's look at some of them.

Features of steel drill stands model 5027000 produced by Wolfcraft (Germany) are:

1. The design of the main support column, to which is attached a steel lath that engages with the wheel of the support assembly. This ensures precise positioning of the stand relative to the surface being treated. At the same time, spontaneous rotation of the drill during drilling is eliminated.
2. The presence of a spring, with the help of which the drill returns to its original position, which is useful when performing repeated operations of the same type.
3. Mechanical hole drilling depth limiter. The unit is equipped with a reading scale with a division value of 1 mm.
4. To drill several holes of the same depth, there is a button on the stand that automatically turns off the tool.
5. The massive cast iron plate is equipped with gripping arms that secure the workpiece.

Some sizes from Wolfcraft have a two-post design, and are equipped with an additional handle to hold the drill and prevent it from slipping.
The reliability and long-term performance of German-made tools are well known. At the same time, the mounting diameter of the drill stand is constant and cannot be adjusted, and the mounting vice is not included in the main set of the device. The weight of the assembled stand - about 8.5 kg - is sufficient for use with drills weighing no more than 1.7 kg (it is known that the minimum mass ratio of the supporting and vibrating tool should not be less than 5.22; with possible shock loads, this ratio increases to 10). The price of the product is within 7000...7500 rubles. The Bulgarian company Sparky (Lovech) produces, in addition to electric drills, also racks for them, which greatly facilitates the work with equipment. The tool, produced under a German license, is quite reliable, so the user, when purchasing any electric drill from Sparky, can also buy a stand at the same time, especially since the price for them is quite affordable: 3500...4000 rubles.

The design features of Sparky racks are:

1. Full unification for manufacturer's electric drills.
2. The need to use a clamping vice, since the base plate only has seats for vice grips.
3. The presence of a return spring.
4. The clamp clamp of an electric drill, which does not have a fixation unit, and therefore during long-term drilling, needs to be periodically tightened.
5. There is no device to limit the movement of the drill during operation of the main tool.
6. The main mounting frame is made of aluminum and therefore has limited rigidity.

It should be noted that racks from this brand are not recommended for use with drills with a power of more than 1000 W. Although the manufacturer guarantees the stability of the stand for a drill weighing up to 3 kg, in practice such stands perform their functions satisfactorily when used with a tool weighing up to 1.5...1.6 kg. The weight of the stand itself is 6 kg.

The domestic brand Caliber produces its own line of stands for power tools, including drills. The most popular model Caliber 96202 is distinguished by:

1. The presence of diagonally located T-shaped grooves intended for installation of gripping paws.
2. Clamping method of drill clamping, which ensures reliable fixation of the tool with moderate vibration levels.
3. A graduated scale on a movable carriage, which greatly facilitates the preliminary installation of the drill before work.
4. Sockets for attaching the stand to a mechanic's workbench, which removes restrictions on the weight of the electric drill used. Therefore, the weight of the stand is small - only 2 kg.

The price of Caliber racks is in the range of 1400...1500 rubles, which is also a consumer advantage of this product.

Horizontal drilling machine

Typically, machines involve drilling holes with a drill in a vertical position. But sometimes it is necessary to make holes in a long part. Even with expensive store-bought stands, you won’t be able to drill vertically efficiently; there will always be errors. To avoid this, you can make a machine for horizontal drilling.

horizontal drilling machine

First you need to prepare a circular saw, a screwdriver or drill and a standard set of tools, including screwdrivers, a hammer, a chisel, etc. You can use ordinary chipboard panels as the material for manufacturing. Supplies you will need:

• Impeller nut;
• self-tapping screws;
• guides;
• lever;
• sleeve;
• bolts.

First you need a frame. Chipboard is used as the base, and the edging is made from wooden blocks. From the same plywood it is necessary to assemble a table that can change its height using screws. The table needs to be thoroughly polished. By rotating the handle, you can raise the table to the desired height. Next, draw a bright line running in the direction of the drill. This will help you drill holes more accurately. The guides are installed in such a way that they can be moved apart depending on the size of the tool, and then secured with screws. For the drill you need to make a support to which the structure is attached. To make the part move better in the machine, you can attach pieces of laminate at the points of contact with the structure.

Holder with two degrees of freedom

The device has two swivel joints between the clamp (clamp) and the clamp for fixing the drill.
The axes of rotation of the hinges are located at an angle of 90°, and allow you to position the tool at any angle to the working plane of the workbench. This can be seen in the illustration. Of course, such a holder can no longer be attached directly to a workbench (stationary); it only works with a clamp. It is not possible to quickly direct the axis of rotation: for safety reasons, first one hinge is fixed, then the second.

Nevertheless, this device makes it possible to use the drill as a milling cutter, with an arbitrary shaft arrangement. Or you simply position the rotation axis in a way that is convenient for you at the current moment.

Advantages:

Increased freedom of rotation axis position.

Flaws:

• Inconvenient position adjustment; you have to fix the hinges one by one. In addition, there are certain restrictions on the size of the power tool (a large drill cannot be secured in such a holder).
• There are questions about reliability: the more hinged joints, the lower the accuracy and strength of the fastening.

Do-it-yourself vertical stand for a screwdriver

In this case, it is quite compact, since it is designed for use in conjunction with a screwdriver.

However, you can adapt it for an electric drill by slightly increasing its size. And then you will get a homemade drill stand.

The advantage of this design is that its manufacture requires a small amount of materials. You don’t even have to buy many parts - you can find them in the garage.

We will make the drill stand stand from 20 mm thick plywood. You can also take a piece of board.

First of all, we saw off a blank of the required size from the plywood. Then we mark and drill two holes in it. Using epoxy glue, glue the guides.

We round the sharp corners of the base on a grinding machine. We make a movable platform from wood or plywood.

In the moving part we drill holes with a diameter of 19 mm for the bearings. Lubricate the outer part of the bearings with epoxy glue and insert the bearings into the holes.

We screw an adapter into the drill chuck, onto which we put a round tube. It must not only be put on, but firmly fixed with epoxy glue.

In the moving part we drill seats with a diameter of 29 mm for round bearings.

We put the first bearing on the tube and press it into place from the bottom of the platform. Then we put the second bearing on the pipe and also press it into the seat. For reliability we use epoxy glue.

We put springs and washers on the guides. Then we install a movable platform with a drill chuck.

It will be necessary to press wooden “plugs” onto the upper part of the guides to limit the stroke.

We clamp the shank of the drill chuck in the screwdriver chuck, and then use a crown of a suitable diameter to drill a hole in the base.

At this point, the process of making a homemade product can be considered complete. Then all that remains is to paint everything or coat it with mineral oil. Of all the racks, this option is the simplest and most cost-effective.

You can watch the author's video for details on how to make this device.

Broach for grinder on linear bearings

Hello to all tinkerers, today we will look at how to make a reliable small stand for an angle grinder. Thanks to the bed, it will be possible to cut the material exactly straight and at right angles, like a miter saw. The author installs discs for both wood and metal on the grinder, so you can cut various materials. The homemade product is made on the basis of linear bearings, which are responsible for pulling the angle grinder. The frame parts of the machine are mostly made of plywood and chipboard. If you are interested in the project, I suggest you study it in more detail!

List of materials:

- plywood; — linear bearings and steel rods for them; - epoxy adhesive; - wood glue; - self-tapping screws; — bolts and washers; - metal clamp; — steel rod 95 mm; - spring; — chipboard; — sheet aluminum or steel; - a piece of channel for support.

Homemade manufacturing process:

Step one. Manufacturing of broach unit

The broaching unit is made of linear bearings and strong steel rods. Such a unit will serve without backlash for quite a long time. We need to make two blocks from plywood, in one block we will firmly fix the rods, this will ultimately be a stand that will be attached to the base. Well, the second block will be movable, linear bearings will be installed in it.

The author precisely cut out all the parts for the blocks using a circular saw, and then we glue the plywood together using wood glue, and to be sure, everything can be tightened with self-tapping screws. We glue the sliding bearings into the block using epoxy glue, and the steel rods are fixed in the same way. Please note that for good adhesion, steel must be thoroughly degreased and treated with sandpaper.

To prevent the movable block from flying off the rods, the author drilled a hole in one rod, cut a thread, and tightened a screw with washers.

As a result, the manufactured fastener remains to be hingedly attached to the broaching block; as a hinge, the author used a strong 95 mm steel rod, at the end of which a thread was cut for a nut. We use washers and tighten the nut so that there is no play in the assembly. To prevent the nut from loosening, it is recommended to use a nut with a plastic locking ring inside.

Step three. The basis

The author decided to cut the base from chipboard; we attach a stand with a broach to it at a right angle. The stand must be secured firmly and rigidly; for fastening, the author used wood glue and wood screws.

Step four. Stop and spring

We place emphasis on the fastener for the grinder so that the grinder does not fall with its nose on the table. As a stop, the author wrapped a piece of threaded rod and screwed on a nut.

Under the stop there is another small block of plywood, into which a screw is screwed. Thanks to this screw, you can adjust the cutting depth of the grinder. We fasten the adjustment block with screws and wood glue.

We also make sure to install a spring that will lift the angle grinder up. The author had to connect the spring through a steel plate.

That's all, now the machine is ready, the homemade product cuts perfectly, there are practically no backlashes. It has become convenient and safe to work with a grinder; you are especially good at cutting profile pipes for welding various structures.

This is the end of the project, I hope you liked the homemade product and found useful thoughts for yourself. Good luck and creative inspiration if you decide to do this again. Don't forget to share your ideas and crafts with us! Source

Making a mobile drill stand for a drill with your own hands

The drill stand has been known to home craftsmen and professionals since the times of the USSR. The mobile design of the rack is very convenient to use, so recently such a device has been made independently. Making a drill holder with your own hands is not at all difficult. It is enough to purchase inexpensive materials, as well as prepare the basic tools.

Materials and tools

For self-assembly, different types of materials can be used. Depending on the type of material used, the tool is selected:

• hardwood or metal plates;
• homemade or factory-made handle;
• furniture guides;
• steel squares;
• electric drill;
• hammer and file;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• tape measure and protractor;
• marker.

Making a stand for a drill

To make a part, it is best to use a thick metal or wooden plate:

• the dimensions of the steel plate are 500 x 500 x 150 mm;
• The dimensions of the wood plate should be 600 x 600 x 30 mm.

These types of beds are used in the manufacture of machines exclusively for drilling work. To manufacture a multifunctional unit, the dimensions need to be increased to 1000 x 500-600 x 20-30 mm. The main stand with supports is attached to the wooden frame. Screws are used to connect parts.

Mechanism for moving the drill in the vertical direction

The design is based on a handle and springs, and the design of the mechanism can be represented by:

• return mechanism fixed in close proximity to the handle;
• a pair of springs fixed in the grooves of the carriage.

The first option involves placing the handle axis between two plates screwed to the post. The spring device moves a few millimeters. Moving the handle down causes the spring to return to its original position and move the carriage to the starting point.

The second design is based on securing the pin and side plates at an angle of 90° to the carriage. The springs are fixed in the grooves of standard furniture guides. As a result of pressing the lever, the drill moves down and the springs are compressed. Once the handle is released, the carriage assembly is thrown upward. The spring elements are fixed with metal squares.

Attachments, nozzles and accessories for drills

Drill attachment - Malco Turboshear TSNS1 scissors. Can handle both slate and slate.

Did you know that a regular drill can do much more than just drill? Its capabilities are significantly expanded by special attachments, attachments and various devices.

Surely not every owner of a drill knows that it can not only drill holes, but also saw, mill, and even turn into a lathe or a pump for pumping liquids.

An ordinary electric drill owes such an enviable versatility to the abundance of a wide variety of attachments, attachments and accessories.

It is hardly possible to find another power tool for which there are as many attachments as for an electric drill.

Of course, the multifunctionality of the drill created by the attachments is in no way capable of replacing a fleet of special professional tools (in terms of cleanliness of processing, accuracy and productivity). But at the household level, all the additional functions acquired by the drill will fully satisfy the needs of the home craftsman.

The SC 165 quick clamp ensures quick fixation of the workpiece when drilling. The drill holder allows you to quickly secure the drill and perform stationary work. Can be rotated 360 degrees, just like vertically. The same goes horizontally.

The most widely available are drill stops . The simplest stop, installed on the auxiliary handle of the drill (attachment set: auxiliary handle and stop with a metric scale), allows you to drill holes to the desired depth. With it, you will never accidentally drill through a workpiece or a thin partition.

The parallel stop is more advanced, since it controls not only the depth of the hole, but also its verticality relative to the surface being machined.

This type of attachment is produced both for construction (drilling in walls and ceilings) and carpentry (furniture) work.

The attachment for construction purposes is professional and is a single unit with an additional handle mounted on a powerful drill. Some models have a built-in dust extractor connected to the vacuum cleaner.

Attachments for carpentry work are structurally similar to the racks of hand-held milling cutters, but are made less precisely and are intended only for small-scale household work.

And more is not required here: a drill is a low-speed tool (relative to an electric milling machine) and does not provide high precision when machining a surface.

The drill is clamped in a basket, which easily moves along two vertical guides.

Devices and attachments for drilling at an angle will allow you to drill a hole where it is simply impossible to approach with a conventional drill. Depending on the design and manufacturer, the drilling angle may be different. The most common attachments allow drilling at an angle of 90º.

This attachment allows you to limit the drilling depth , ensures strict verticality of the hole and allows you to perform (with appropriate attachments) some milling work. This is especially important when making furniture at home: inserting furniture hinges, holes for assembly fasteners and dowels, or cutting grooves.

The stop can be equipped with various inserts for side drilling in round parts or with complex profiles. Some models of stops have a dust extraction device connected to the vacuum cleaner. But a professional will prefer a manual milling machine (the same operational capabilities, but high surface quality and accuracy).

Of course, holes in parts can be made most accurately and quickly on a drilling machine. But a drill equipped with a drill stand - a guide attachment - shows excellent results. As a rule, such a stand is equipped with a convenient clamping vice (for the workpiece). The vice can be moved along the stand frame to the desired position.

A drill (almost any) is easily and quickly clamped into the “basket” of the stand and the drilling machine is ready for work. The compact dimensions of this attachment, smooth feed and accurate metric scale make it a valuable acquisition for a small workshop.

The attachment to the drill, which turns it into a wood lathe, cannot but arouse interest . The attachment is easily attached to the table and the machine is ready. Available in several design options. As a rule, a certain set of accessories and cutting tools is offered for it.

This type of attachment does not pretend to be a professional tool, but many parts for individual furniture or a country house can be made quite well using it. But if you start mass production of turned table legs or balusters using this attachment, it will quickly break, and the drill will not withstand such violence.

Our photographs give a clear idea of ​​the design and operating principle of this attachment.

The most famous and widespread are attachments that turn a drill into an electric sharpener . Here we will introduce you to only two specialized attachments of this type: one for sharpening circular saw blades and the other for sharpening drills, chisels and plane knives.

The value of attachments lies in the fact that they allow you to avoid the expensive services of professional sharpeners of such tools. With them you will not have problems with either the sharpening angle or the perfect cutting edge (even if you have never done this before).

Installing such attachments on a drill does not cause any difficulties.

Noteworthy is an easy-to-use and compact attachment for milling grooves in the ends of cabinet furniture parts or joinery (for corner joints).

It is very simple to work with it: there is no need to clamp the workpiece on a workbench, the quality and accuracy of processing is high, the depth of the groove and its level can be set by simple adjustment.

This attachment will completely satisfy a professional furniture maker.

For those craftsmen whose work is very diverse, a long flexible or angled drive for a drill .

They are simply installed in the drill chuck and have their own clamping chuck, suitable for any attachments (drills, grinding stones, bits, etc.). These attachments allow you to work with a drill in the most difficult to reach places.

It certainly wouldn’t occur to anyone to use a drill to pump liquids.

But this is quite realistic and not unreasonable if you use a pump attachment installed in the drill chuck .

Of course, it is not intended for long-term continuous operation and has a low productivity, but it can and is quite convenient to pump out (viscous) paint from a barrel or dirty water from a basement.

By changing the speed of the drill, you change the speed of pumping out liquid. As a rule, the entire body of such a set-top box is made of plastic: the service life is short, but the price is low.

It is generally accepted that templates significantly speed up many operations and increase the accuracy of processing parts and their assembly. This can be confirmed by the abundance of existing drill templates .

We show only the most common patterns that are most often in demand when working with a drill.

Among them there are both professional ones (durable and maintain the accuracy of their dimensions) and for home craftsmen (made of plastic).

Template (jig) for drilling precise holes for dowels.

But regardless of this, they contain all the basic standard sizes of furniture holes: for inserting hinges and locks, for furniture ties and dowels, as well as the distances between them and from the edges of parts. Some templates allow you to dispense with the rip fence.

Sometimes you can’t do without a good dust removal and garbage collection system when working independently. The DeWALT DWA500DC dust collector will help with vertical drilling in the ceiling.

Filigree channel drilling

The A&M concern has developed a special attachment for drilling wood . Under the MILWAUKEE brand it is called Pathfinder, and under the AEG brand it is called 3D bit.

The use of such a special drill attachment will greatly facilitate the work of builders, carpenters, carpenters and mechanics, as well as electricians and plumbers, because it can be used to drill inclined holes in hard-to-reach places, gutters and channels for installing cables and pipes.

The cutting action of this nozzle is carried out in three directions and allows you to cut into material where conventional drills are powerless.

The drilling speed with the new attachment is three times higher than with feather drills, and the selection of channels, grooves and grooves is much more accurate, so the holes are even, smooth and without chips.

The drill has six edges, which are sharpened with a regular file or emery stone.

We advise you to decide in advance on the nature of the work that you will most often and in large quantities perform. And only after that, start looking for the attachments, attachments and accessories you need for the drill.

Drill attachments for cutting sheet materials

Perhaps it is worth highlighting special attachments for the drill as a separate category, turning it into a unique tool for cutting all kinds of sheet materials.

With the help of such an attachment - scissors and a regular, even cordless drill, you can easily cut metal sheets up to 1.5 mm thick, metal mesh and thick plastic.

Manufactured by Malco (USA), a whole family of scissor attachments is called Turboshear.

Such scissors are capable of cutting both along the axis of the tool and perpendicular to it, which allows you to cut squares and rectangles. The attachment will work on both a cordless screwdriver and a powerful mains-powered drill. But don't think that all this will cost a penny. The cost of such attachments - scissors - ranges from 4,000 to 7,000 rubles.

Equipment rack

The stand where the guides for the drill will be located can also be made from a metal or wooden plate. In addition to guides for moving the drill in a vertical plane, a clamp is mounted on the stand, with which the tool is fixed to it. The procedure for assembling the rack can be seen in the training video, and you must adhere to the following sequence of actions:

• a support is fixed on the stand-frame;
• the machine stand is secured to the base using screw connections, which is then connected to the support;
• guides are fixed on the rack, which can be used as telescopic furniture devices;
• a carriage is mounted on the moving part of the guides, where a fastener is placed for fixing the drill.

You can select suitable profile pipes for the rack

When choosing guides for your homemade machine, you should pay attention to ensuring that there is no lateral play in them. The length of the carriage, also made of metal or wood, depends on the size of the drill that you will use to equip your machine

This structural unit, which is equipped with a mobile drill stand, can be made in the following two options

The length of the carriage, also made of metal or wood, depends on the size of the drill that you will use to equip your machine. This structural unit, which is equipped with a mobile drill stand, can be made in the following two options.

With the drill secured using clamps. The clamps used in this design are threaded into holes pre-drilled in the carriage. Clamping of the drill and its reliable fixation on the carriage is ensured by tightening the clamps.

Steel pipe stand

A special block is used to attach the drill. This block is a bracket where the drill is secured. The bracket is made from a wooden plate, which is attached to the carriage at an angle of 90 degrees, for which metal corners are used. To fix the drill, a hole is drilled in the block, the diameter of which is 0.5 mm smaller than the diameter of the tool itself, and a slot is made to allow the tool to be inserted into the mounting hole.

The hole in the block on the machine, intended for installing a drill, is made according to the following algorithm:

• a circle is drawn on the surface of the block, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the drill being installed;
• in the inner part of the circle, trying to adhere to the line that limits it, drill a series of holes of small diameter;
• the partitions that have formed between the drilled holes are cut using a hacksaw or any other tool;
• Using a file or needle file with a semicircular shape of the working surface, the edges of the resulting hole for the drill are processed, making them smooth.

Wooden stand with carriage on furniture rails

Mounting the drill on a movable frame

I didn’t have to deal with this issue additionally, since the necessary design had long been made for a homemade wood lathe. After several months of working on it, I gave up using a 300-watt drill and installed a three-phase asynchronous electric motor, switching it via a capacitor circuit to power from a single-phase network.

The power of the lathe and productivity increased, and the drill mounting structure was simply stored on a shelf in the workshop until the stage of its reuse came.

The basis of the fastening is a rectangular fiberglass plate with a central hole cut out with a jigsaw. A slot is made on the side surface, which is compressed after installing the drill with a threaded connection.

For this purpose, an internal hole was made for the stud, tightened with nuts on both sides.

The upper nut was tightened with a regular wrench, and a flat elongated bar or terminal from electrical equipment was used as the lower nut.

Plywood drill stand

We'll tell you how to make a drill stand from durable plywood.

Drilling attachments are very convenient. Consider taking them with you every time you need to use your drill presses. Be sure to fine-tune the height of the workpiece. Use a pencil as a marker and line it up. This way you will know your starting point.

The router attachment turns your rotary tool into an efficient router for small jobs such as shaping decorative edges and cutting straight slots. This dedicated app is great for crafters who use it frequently.

In this post I'll show you how to make a simple router bit attachment for your drill or dremel using plywood and bolts. This milling application is fast and simple.

Parts used:

• Plywood thickness 6 "* 5" 19 mm (2 pcs.)
• 2 x #10mm bolts with nuts and washer (6” long)
• 2 springs (length 2.5 inches)
• 2 pieces of 12mm steel pipe (length 19mm)
• 5/16 Bolt with Nut and Washer (2.5" Length)
• 2 x #3/16 screws with nuts (5" long)
• 1.5" diameter round plywood pieces (2 pieces)
• Laminate
• 10mm electric drill

How to do:

First of all I cut 2 pieces of 19mm plywood to 6*5 inches. For a smooth finish and better appearance I also used Sunmica laminate.

Sand the corner of the plywood pieces and cut one piece of plywood into the shape as shown in the picture.

Drill a 1.5-inch hole on both pieces of plywood using a router bit and make a groove on one piece of plywood for the drill bit holder.

Drill a 10mm hole on both sides of the base plywood and run 10mm bolts through these holes and secure them into these holes with glue. Make sure both of these bolts are perfectly perpendicular to the plywood base.

And on another sheet of plywood, drill 12mm holes on both sides and attach a 12mm steel pipe (19mm long) to both of these holes using glue. Make sure the base plywood bolts fit through these steel pipes easily and there is no gap between them.

Place two springs (2.5 inches long) on ​​the base of the plywood, away from the bolts as shown.

Attach 10mm nuts to two 1.5" round pieces of plywood as shown. This is used to move the drill bit up and down.

Attach two 3/16 bolts (5 inches long) to the plywood portion of the drill bit holder with nuts as shown, which are used to secure the position of the drill press.

Attach a 10mm drill press to the post through the 1.5” hole and secure it with a bolt and nut. Now this drill press app is ready to use.

For better understanding, watch the video below.

The process of making a drilling machine from shock absorbers

According to the markings, we weld a piece of roller chain to the wide side of the profile pipe.

Using bearing housings, we mark and drill holes in the steel plate for fastening them with hardware.

We screw a nut onto the stud inserted through the bearing, put on the sprocket and secure it with a second nut.

We mark another plate for installation and welding in the center of the profile pipe, drilling holes in the corners and rounding them.

We clean the old shock absorbers, and after drilling the bottoms, drain the oil and knock off the covers. After wrapping the mirrors of the rods and threads with aluminum foil, we place them in the shot blasting chamber for complete cleaning. Finally, remove the levers.

We place the shock absorbers with their upper parts in the corners at the level of the sloping shelves and weld them.

We fix the shock absorbers parallel to the steel plate at the corners using welding.

We apply a piece of profile pipe to the ends of the painted rods and drill two holes along the marks.

We lay it flat and place a U-shaped bracket in the center with its legs facing outwards and weld it.

For a fragment of a profile pipe with a length equal to the width of the larger side, remove the opposite edge. Drill a hole in the center of the square base.

We cut a fragment of a round pipe along the generatrix and weld ears with two holes along the edges of the cut. It turned out to be a kind of clamp.

Insert a bolt into a part made from a profile pipe from the inside and weld it behind the head. We fix the hardware in a vice, place the clamp along the legs with the ears up and connect them by welding.

We place the U-shaped bracket on the profile pipe between the shock absorbers, then the rods will fit into its holes. Screw the nuts onto the threads of the rods and tighten them.

We turn the shock absorbers over and place an assembly of bearing housings, pins and sprockets on the bracket leg. We weld the assembly plate to the bracket.

We weld a plate of different widths to the narrow sides of the profile pipe with a chain flush with the end.

We place the assembly on them, then the sprocket will engage with the chain, and weld the shock absorbers to the plates.

We bend a U-shaped element with rounded corners from a profile pipe. We fix the legs at right angles to the crossbar and weld them.

We weld two corners crosswise to the ends of the legs with a small gap. We make 2 holes in the shelves along the edges.

We cut out a cover for the U-shaped element from a steel sheet and weld them. This unit is the base of the machine.

We attach the assembly plate with shock absorbers to the base with four bolts and nuts.

We put the spindle feed handle on the pin and secure it with a nut.

We screw plastic balls onto the ends of the handle spokes, drilling blind holes in them and cutting threads.

To lift the spindle, we attach a tension spring to the body and spindle.

We attach a clamp with a base to the plate between the shock absorbers, into which we insert a drill with a reinforced body and tighten it.

The machine is ready for use.

Materials

• Two old shock absorbers;
• drill with power handle;
• two bearing housings with bearing;
• roller chain and sprocket;
• profile rectangular pipe;
• spindle feed handle and plastic balls;
• steel sheet, plates and angle;
• stud, bolts, washers and nuts;
• extension spring, etc.

We will also need: a square and a marker, a hammer and a countersink, a drill, welding, a shot blasting chamber, a grinder, etc.

Making a wooden machine: instructions with step-by-step photos

The easiest machine to manufacture is considered to be made of wood. The disadvantage of the design is the weak strength of the material. Wood becomes deformed due to changes in humidity. Over time, play appears on the rack. It is advisable to use a wooden machine only for vertical drilling of holes.

The procedure for assembling a wooden structure is as follows:

• A plate will be required for the bed. It is made from edged boards 20 mm thick. You can sew plywood on top to get a perfectly flat area. The size of the plate is selected individually. If the machine is intended only for vertical drilling, then a frame with dimensions of 50x50 cm will be sufficient. To perform milling work and drilling at an angle, the dimensions of the plate are increased to 100x50 cm.

• A 20 cm wide stand is installed vertically on the bed. Its height depends on the dimensions of the drill. Usually, boards 50–70 cm long are enough for a stand. The part is fixed to the side of the bed or on the plate itself. In the second case, the rack is reinforced with a support.

• The carriage is made from a board. The length of the workpiece varies from 50 to 70 cm, but usually the dimensions are selected to match the drill model. On the back side of the carriage and the front side of the stand, telescopic furniture guides are fixed, serving as a movement mechanism.

• The drill can be secured to the front side of the carriage with clamps, which is not very reliable.

• To firmly fix the drill, it is better to make a block. The unit consists of a piece of plate, perpendicularly fixed to the carriage with steel corners.

• For the block, take a square piece of board. A circle is drawn in the center. Its diameter should be 0.5 mm less than the thickness of the front part of the drill.

• The circle is cut out with a jigsaw. The socket is given ideal smoothness using a round file. The finished block is fixed to the carriage. A cut is made in the front and a screw clamp is installed.

The carriage with the block is installed on the rack, connecting with elements of furniture guides. All that remains is to make the control handle.

Make or buy?

An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Place it on the carriage of the machine and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of this, frames for installing drills are now sold only on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the operating mode of the equipment; The price also depends on it:

• Occasional drilling/milling for yourself with the accuracy of what you get - cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Carriage sliding bearings (see below) are steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
• Regular drilling for yourself or to order with ordinary machine-building precision. The materials processed are up to the hardness and toughness of ordinary structural steel. Everything is the same, but the sliding bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite, also vibration-absorbing. Prices: $30-$40.
• Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and/or with increased accuracy - plain bearings are only bronze on steel, cast iron frame. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices: $60-$180.

Choosing a bed

The stand for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call stands) must be chosen not according to - not “China”); Now the market is full of “German China”, not to mention products from post-Soviet states. The design needs to be checked.

First, samples with plastic non-nylon liners for sliding bearings are definitely rejected: runout and drill drift of more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th – 20th “hole” and will further increase. The second is console play. We take it by the far end, swing it up and down and to the sides while holding the latch. There should be no noticeable “chatter” (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beat of 0.4-0.5 mm).

Next is an inspection of the structure, see Fig. below. For regular drilling, the one shown in pos. 1. The ideal option is at pos. 2: collet clamp of the drill, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and by turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill the part by hand with the precision “as best you can” on a standard fixed table, removing a couple of table fasteners, because in this case, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.

How to choose a bed (stand) for a drill

And here is a sample for pos. 3 do not take under any circumstances. Firstly, the collar of its column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “as it happens,” but, unlike diagonal ones, they do not dampen vibrations of the bed. Moreover, they will concentrate where shown by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight into the column and table.

Which is cheaper?

Bench Drill Press Spindle Drawings

Let’s say the price for the machine you like doesn’t suit you. Or a drill, if it’s a “crowbar” one, with an impact mechanism, that was used in work on building structures and the beating of the chuck is visible to the eye. Then the first thing we do is find out if there is a craftsman within reach who owns a lathe with high precision (no rougher than 0.02 mm). Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off with the flow of regular orders. But let's say he was found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can turn it out of steel no worse than 30KhGSA, and how much he will charge for the work. “This” is the drawings of the tabletop drill spindle. The rest of its parts can be turned on a regular machine, or found in ruins at an iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that it is cheaper to buy a bed + table, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then perhaps a drill of increased accuracy will emerge. There are some of these on sale; they can be recognized by the absence of a striking mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in the frame: a turned steel cuff is put on it.

Making a steel machine: instructions with step-by-step photos

A metal machine consists of similar units, but they are more difficult to make due to the complexity of processing the material. The advantage of the design is its reliability and lack of play, which is ideal for installing additional components that expand the functionality of the machine.

The general structure of the metal machine is shown in the drawing, and the procedure for manufacturing the structure is as follows:

• For the frame you will need a steel plate 1 cm thick. The dimensions can be taken similar to those of the wooden model.

• The stand is welded from a square or round pipe with a cross section of 32–40 mm. You can weld a sleeve of a larger diameter onto the plate, and insert a pipe into it and tighten it with a bolt.

• The carriage is made from a larger diameter pipe. It should fit freely onto the stand. A steel clamp for a drill is fixed to the carriage.

Now all that remains is to put all the units into one structure and try to secure the drill with clamps.

Drilling machine installation

The drilling machine must be assembled in accordance with the drawing documentation. The mobile version of the drill stand, with high versatility, consists of the following elements and structural parts:

• supporting frame for fastening all the necessary elements of the machine;
• a guide that allows you to secure and move the tool with the carriage in the vertical direction;
• a special handle that controls the vertical movement of the tool.

To improve functionality and performance, additional components and special elements are used. Assembly and installation of the device must be carried out in accordance with the following instructions:

• fastening to the frame is strengthened by supports;
• screwing the vertical stand to the support;
• vertical fastening of a pair of guides;
• mounting on the moving part of the carriage with an electric drill.

For correct operation of the machine, it is necessary to check the guides for any play. The tool can be secured using special clamps or using a block.

Video: homemade drill stand

about choosing a drill

If you are just planning to select a specific drill model with the possibility of using it in conjunction with the device, the designs of which we described above, then:

Give preference to a tool with a power of at least 1 kW.

Choose a model with a removable handle, secured with a circular clip around the girth. They have a convenient wide cylindrical part on the body for mounting in a holder.

Choose a tool that has multiple speeds or smooth speed control.

The button on your drill should have a lock in the on position.

to connect the drill on the stand to the network through a socket or extension cord that has a power button, and firmly fix it on the frame in a place convenient for emergency shutdown.

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