Do-it-yourself electric scooter - a master class with step-by-step instructions for doing it yourself. Tips and simple patterns for beginners + the best photo reviews

General design of an electric scooter

To understand how to assemble a scooter yourself, you need to understand its design. The structure consists of the following parts:

• Frame;
• Wheels;
• Electric motor;
• Controller;
• Accumulator battery;
• Brakes;
• Controls.

Adding battery capacity

To add capacity to the battery (while maintaining the voltage), you need to add “long” p-rows of elements consisting of 10 elements at a nominal value of 36V, or 13 elements at a nominal value of 48V. You need to add rows consisting of elements of the same capacity and internal resistance, then the capacitance and resistance of the s-sections (“short” rows) will change by the same amount. Read "Parallel and serial connection of batteries."

When repacking a battery, you can simultaneously increase its voltage to increase speed and power. For example, in order to make a 48V battery from a 36V battery with a 10s3p configuration, you need to disassemble one “long” p-row, consisting of 10 elements, and make three s-sections (“short” rows) from 9 elements. The result is a 13s2p battery, which can already be expanded with “long” p-rows, consisting of 13 elements each. The same method is used when repairing rechargeable batteries - the main goal is to keep the “short” s-sections equal in capacity and resistance. If the voltage increases, the BMS will need to be replaced.

Frame (base)

The easiest option is to take a frame from a factory scooter. The disadvantage of this option may be the additional load on the frame. After all, the weight of additional equipment will be added to the person’s weight. The undoubted advantage of this is its relative simplicity.

The second option is manufacturing, as they say, from scratch. The advantage of this method is that the device will take into account all individual wishes and characteristics.

For making your own frame, a square pipe with a wall thickness of 2-2.5 mm is suitable. True, here you will need additional skills for designing and calculating the base, skills in working with materials and tools.

Required materials and tools

To make an electric scooter with your own hands, you may need the following materials:

• pipes made of metal or ABS, as well as cross connections, angles, fittings;
• glue;
• bicycle wheels, elements from a hoverboard or a ready-made motorcycle wheel;
• drive sprocket, steering rack and other elements from an old children's bicycle;
• screwdriver;
• a piece of plywood or sheet steel;
• bicycle chain;
• 18650 batteries either from under a laptop or a screwdriver;
• electronic wires, switches and other “stuffing”;
• electric traction motor with drive;
• accumulator battery;
• the engine control unit;
• a set of wires of various sections;
• steering fork;
• battery compartment

In production, electric scooters are assembled in such a way that a short circuit in the circuit is simply excluded. In homemade devices, it is possible to use sealant or rubber seals. Tools you may need are a simple screwdriver with a set of bits, a band saw or jigsaw and lathe, soldering equipment, a drill, clamps, a regular and Phillips screwdriver.

The list of materials and tools will vary depending on the nature of the assembly and the specific model. If desired, even a seat with a luggage compartment can be installed.

Wheels

Wheels are divided by size into micro, mini, midi and maxi. The first have a size of less than 20 cm, the second - 20 cm, the third - from 25 to 30 cm, the fourth - more than 30 cm.

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The choice of wheels to be installed on the scooter depends on its operating conditions. If you drive on smooth roads, then micro-sized wheels are suitable. An electric scooter with them will be light and compact.

If the roads are of average quality, with small cracks and unevenness or are paved with tiles, then the mini option is better. If you plan to move on poor asphalt or dirt roads, then it is necessary to install midi or even maxi size wheels. Inflatable wheels are also suitable.

A simple scooter with a motor from wipers and a gearbox from an angle grinder

Materials and tools used by the author:

List of materials:

- wiper motor; — gearbox from an angle grinder; — profile pipes; - wheels; - Sheet steel; — bolts, nuts, tubes; — round timber for turning work.

Homemade manufacturing process:

Step one. Reworking the gearbox

We disassemble the unnecessary grinder and remove the anchor. You need to disassemble the anchor if necessary and cut off a piece of the axle. Next, you need to dock this axis with the axis of the motor. To solve the problem, the author bored a hole in the axis on a lathe for the motor axis. We also drill a hole for the pin, it will cling to the fork of the motor axle. Finally, the modified gearbox can be assembled.

Step two. Attach the gearbox to the motor

Our axles are ready for docking; all that remains is to screw the gearbox to the motor. The author screwed a steel plate to the motor, and the grinder gearbox is screwed to this plate using screws and nuts. As a result, we get an excellent, powerful 12V gear motor, albeit with low output speeds.

We connect the wires and try to turn on the motor, the shaft rotates, everything is fine.

Step three. Drive wheel

We take the wheel from the cart and grind a nut under the hole. The angle grinder shaft will be screwed into this nut, and as a result, we have a finished drive axle.

The second rear wheel is driven, it rotates on bearings, the author machined the corresponding axle for it.

Step five. Battery and testing

The author wanted to use two batteries from screwdrivers as a power source, but they turned out to be discharged and the scooter did not run on them. To increase the capacity, the author soldered the batteries in parallel.

The author carried out excellent tests of his homemade product on a car battery.

We screw a sheet of plywood as the bottom, and the motor is controlled using a button that can be pressed with your foot. The homemade vehicle does not drive fast and stops quite quickly when the power is turned off, so brakes are not needed here. Well, the child is happy, the scooter, although not fast, is already running on electricity.

This completes the project, I hope you liked the homemade product and found useful thoughts for yourself. Good luck and creative inspiration if you decide to do this again. Don't forget to share your ideas and crafts with us!

Source

Engine

A wheel motor can be used as a motor. It can be purchased separately or taken from a broken hoverboard. A motor from a cordless electric drill can also be used as a propulsion device. Some craftsmen use a screwdriver or a car radiator cooling engine as an engine.

Engine power is selected depending on the conditions in which you intend to drive. For children, it is better to take low-power engines. For driving at speeds up to 30 km/h, a motor with a power of up to 300 Watts is suitable.

For fast driving, you can use motors with a power of 350-400 watts. Such an engine will allow you to reach speeds of up to 40-50 km/h. It is important to consider safety issues here.

Asynchronous motor

Asynchronous ones are quite large and heavy; in this case we use a 750-watt one, which gives high efficiency and very powerful acceleration.

It is best to use bicycles with a high frame; by the way, if you have not yet decided on a frame, you can contact us, a bicycle rental company, and choose the size and shape that suits you.

In terms of speed, it will be inferior to motor wheels of similar power. But it will cost much less.

For assembly you will need:

- drive unit;

— controller;

- batteries.

Operating procedure:

1. We start by dismantling the sprockets on the carriage , remove the pedals and connecting rods - they will not be needed with this arrangement;

2. Then you need to make a drive mounting bracket.

The easiest way is if the base is steel, then you can set and weld a couple of profiles from a steel angle, for example.

Holes for the selected engine are marked and drilled in them.

Instead of welded brackets, you can make removable ones that will be held in place like clamps;

3. In this case, batteries are needed with a capacity of 12Ah and a voltage of 24V.

Several smaller ones can be connected in series;

4. Batteries weigh a lot, so they will also need brackets .

It’s worth choosing batteries so that they fit inside the frame, it’s more compact;

5. The easiest way to install the controller is closer to the batteries so as not to pull wires through the entire structure.

You can buy a small bag and secure it tightly, and put a control device inside;

6. Then the electrician: the wires are soldered, the charging connector is soldered.

We insulate unprotected areas with electrical tape or heat shrink.

If it is not possible to completely hide the wires, it is worth laying them in a cable channel to protect them from moisture and dirt.

Accumulator battery

The distance the scooter travels depends on the battery. There are several types of batteries: lead-acid, lithium polymer, lithium ion, lithium iron phosphate. The former are known for their use in motorcycles and cars. They are heavy and have a small number of charge-discharge cycles compared to other types.

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Polymer and ionic are the most suitable in terms of weight, technical characteristics and price. For lithium-polymer batteries, the number of discharges and charges is up to 800, for lithium-ion batteries – up to 1000 cycles. Both types are lightweight and dependent on ambient temperature. In cold weather the discharge occurs faster. In addition, there is a danger of fire or explosion when overcharging.

The lithium iron phosphate battery is not afraid of mechanical damage, is resistant to low temperatures, is not afraid of overcharging and has up to 2000 charge-discharge cycles. But it is heavier and more expensive than polymer and ion batteries.

You can buy a ready-made battery pack, or you can assemble it yourself, for example, based on 18650 batteries. Which one to use depends on personal preferences and available resources.

Battery installation is done in different ways. Can be installed below in a platform called a deck. This option is preferable as it does not raise the center of gravity. But in this case, additional protection against impacts and mechanical damage is required.

Another location for installing the battery is the steering column. There, either a hanging container is made, or installation is carried out in a rack if it is made of several pipes.

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No matter how the battery is mounted, it must be protected from moisture. Waterproofing of a self-made electric scooter is carried out using electrical tape, sealants, and the manufacture of moisture-proof covers.

Kit for building a 10” electric scooter: is it worth assembling the scooter yourself?

In this article I will talk about my experience in assembling an electric scooter from a Chinese kit with a 10″ motor wheel and a folding frame. The set consists of a pair of wheels with tubes and tires, one wheel with an electric motor. My version is one of the simplest at 500 W. Also included in the set: a controller with an accelerator trigger and a set of mechanical disc brakes. I assembled the scooter and tested it in operation.

I bought a kit for assembling a scooter with 10″ wheels (36 V 500 W)

KIT

And the frame for building a scooter, also respectively, 10″

FRAME

Content

• Introduction
• Set with motor wheel
• Scooter frame
• Assembly
• Conclusion

Introduction

It all started last summer when we were vacationing in the city of Gelendzhik. There is a long embankment with a beautiful view of the sea. And there are electric scooter rentals everywhere. My son and I had a blast there on different models. And upon returning home to Bryansk, my son said to me: “Dad, we need to make an electric scooter too!”

I definitely don’t need a scooter, our area is compact, we get around on foot or by car. The embankment in Bryansk is 500 meters away and smells of mud. Yes, and I’m a fan of electric bicycles, I have an off-road dual-suspension bike with a bafang 750 W bottom bracket motor.

But we decided to get a scooter as well, as you can’t refuse a child, and something new for yourself. I wanted to take some kugo, but I remembered that I still had a battery from one of my electric bike projects. Why should good things disappear? I need to use it, I thought. And I started looking for a scooter without a battery. But the only one that was suitable for the price was the assembly kit + frame.

Some may find my choice strange or the prices ambiguous, but I was guided solely by my preferences and my vision of beauty. This is what I'm talking about.

I ordered it from the Green E-motion Store on Aliexpress, if the frame says that there is no delivery to the desired country, you just need to pay with a link for $1 x price, the seller will tell you. The current issue is that the value in the declaration is underestimated; I did not pay taxes on two parcels.

Set with motor wheel

Let's start with the assembly kit. The kit is delivered to the user's door by a transport company.

Everything came in a heavy cardboard box. But content protection could be better; Only the motor-wheel had a foam insert; the rest of the equipment was wrapped in air-filled film.

The main thing in the set is the drive, the motor-wheel. Let me remind you that I took the not most powerful 500 W option for my 36 V 17 Ah battery. 48 V versions of electric motors are more popular; they are more powerful, in this size up to 1 kW. City “slick” tires, size 10x2.5″ (25 cm), rubber tubes included.

General characteristics of the motor-wheels of this lot

• Engine model: TX-10
• Rated voltage: 36V/48V
• Power: 250W, 350W, 400W, 500W, 600W 800W 1000W
• Shaft length: 160 mm
• Applicable models: 10 inch scooter
• Fork size: 110mm
• External diameter: 168 mm
• Width: 40 mm
• Weight: 3.2 kg
• Black color
• Speed: 30-65 km/h

The wheel axle is 12 mm with two flats. A long cable protected by a metal spring near the axis comes out of the axle. The wires in the cable are standard: three phase wires for the motor and five for the Hall sensor. Washers with a mustache to protect against rotation in the frame mounts are included in the kit.

Second wheel (front). Cast aluminum disc, width 1.04″. The wheels are designed for disc brakes, industrial bearings with a protective plastic ring. 10 mm axle included.

I would like to note that the wheels do not come assembled. You need to install the tube and tire yourself (steel cord). And this is not easy if there is no long “mounting”, I fiddled with short bicycle mountings for a long time, after my hands were bleeding, I went to a familiar tire shop. The pros did it right away.

The controller of this model is in an aluminum case with water protection and is designed for 36 V and 21 A, but knowing the reliability of Chinese power electronics, I would not recommend loading it with high current. The purpose of the wire bundle is described on the product page. The connectors are ordinary, but Bafang has better protection from water and overturning.

The accelerator trigger (here is the V889 model, some kind of clone of the kugo trigger) is equipped with a round screen and communicates with the controller via the UART protocol. There is a nice bonus - the usb port for charging the phone actually produces about 0.5 A, but it’s enough to charge the phone urgently or make an important call.

The controller with the trigger can be purchased separately, or you can choose another solution; otherwise, there is a large selection of components.

Next are the brakes. There is a set of mechanical brakes with 140 mm discs. Round brake pads. It’s easy to find them on Ali for replacement.

The brake handles are grippy, 11 cm long. They are equipped with limit switches to stop the motor, this is a reasonable solution that increases safety and protects the pads.

All necessary fasteners and cable from the trigger to the controller are included.

Scooter frame

The frame was also delivered by a transport company. The packaging here is quite bulky. Fine? at least there were four large foam inserts inside for protection during transportation.

Included with the frame was a small set of tools and deck cover fasteners.

The frame (wheelbase 88 cm) weighs as much as 10 kg, the main part - the deck - is made of steel, the rest is aluminum alloy. The deck platform is made of 2.5 mm aluminum, dimensions 50x19 cm, and is secured with 8 screws. The red stripes are “sandpaper” glued on to prevent the shoes from slipping.

Quite hard plastic fenders are immediately installed, but handlebar handles (grips) must be purchased separately. There is a mount for a stand with a seat.

The frame is equipped with light. There is a red brake light on the rear fender, powered by battery voltage. The headlight, combined with a signal, operates on 12 V, and shines dullly. I didn’t install them, I use bicycle lights, I have a lot of them.

There was also a disgusting RGB backlight on the sides, in the form of two strips, I immediately removed it.

The frame suspension looks better than it works. The front has just springs without dampers. The rear steel pendulum is absurdly fixed below the plane of the deck, which eats up good ground clearance of up to 8 cm! Well, at least the shock absorbers are adjustable and at least work.

But the steering wheel is comfortable. Width when unfolded 60 cm. Height adjustment 30 cm.

It is necessary to say separately about Chinese welding. The frame is, of course, budget-friendly, but to be honest, our welding vocational school students will do better. The seams are sloppy, welding spatter has not been cleaned up in places.

The walls of the deck were pulled and pulled from welding, I had to use improvised tools and a pneumatic wedge to insert a battery of standard width (a pair of 18650 batteries + extra space for contacts and walls = 140 mm), and the deck was 138-139 mm wide. Full deck dimensions (LxWxD): 475x139x70 mm.

The frame folds quite simply, there are two levers: the main one and the locking one. You pull the stopper, the pin comes out of the groove and use the main lever to fold the frame back in the reverse order. Moreover, the folding mechanism can be adjusted to ensure there is no play by tightening the eccentric nut of the main lever.

Special thanks for the installed footrest - convenient.

The execution of the frame left an ambivalent impression. I would design it easier and more interesting. But I'm lazy >_

Assembly

Assembly ideally should not take much time and require special tools. And so it happened. Most of the time was spent installing and tuning the mechanical brakes. Yes, I had to calibrate all the threads with a tap, but it wasn’t tiring.

In the photo below, you can see how the power button and charging port are placed, as well as how the cables go into the end of the deck.

The trigger screen is color and quite clear. There is a headlight control and a cruise speed control function. There is documentation with error codes and settings.

Displays:

• Selected gear (1-3)
• Current speed
• Time
• Mileage
• Total mileage
• Battery voltage
• Error codes

From the settings available:

• Screen backlight brightness
• Selectable battery voltage 24/36/48 V
• Sleeping mode
• Wheel diameter
• Minimum discharge voltage
• Current through controller
• Speed ​​Limit
• Cruise control
• etc.

Inside the deck, everything is conveniently located along the length; there is enough space for a large (20+ Ah) battery.

But my battery let me down, one group is dying, it needs to be changed. So it is impossible to reliably say the supplied current and capacity.

Of course, on the first trip there were some losses; the trigger mount broke due to a fall, but I made a new one from a metal plate. Although the scooter is not the fastest, I limited the speed to 20 km/h when the child is riding.

Conclusion

The scooter had surprisingly good roll and protection from splashes from puddles. But with such a battery, it did not deliver more than 30 km/h (40 km/h is stated). The suspension is only suitable for riding on asphalt/tiles. But it doesn’t shake, the wheels are wide and do a good job of smoothing out small bumps. At first, after riding an electric bike, it was unusual to ride standing up, but you get used to it quickly, and now we often ride even on business.

When folded, the scooter measures 112x44x19 cm. Total weight is 20 kg. It won't fit in every car trunk.

Here you can see the scooter in action, how it rides at different speeds and modes.

If you forgot anything, since I didn’t plan to write a text review, you can look at my videos, they tell you more about the scooter.

The expected conclusion is that it is cheaper and easier to buy a finished product at your place of residence and with a guarantee. If you have a workshop and skills in working with metal, you can make a frame yourself and better than this one. It is also better to assemble the battery yourself or order an assembly from good high-current elements. It comes out to buy the motor-wheel, which is what they do most often. This whale is more of a field for experimentation, but it was interesting to collect it.

Thank you for your attention. Enjoy the shopping!

Controller

The controller is, one might say, the brain of the engine. How the scooter will ride and its acceleration at the start depends on it. Selected according to engine parameters. If the motor consumes 36 V, then the controller must be 36 V.

The power is selected taking into account the reserve for the starting load and forced movement. As a rule, a reserve of 2-2.5 times the current is taken. That is, if the motor has a power of 300 Watts, then its rated current is 8.3 A (300W/36V). This means the controller must withstand up to 21A.

Assembly diagram for a homemade scooter battery

Before changing the battery on an electric scooter, you need to choose its assembly diagram. How the cells in a battery are connected determines its voltage, capacity, shape and size. When connecting batteries in series (designated S in the diagram), their voltage is summed, but the capacity remains unchanged. With a parallel connection (designation P), the capacitance values ​​are summed, but the voltage does not change.

Let's look at some cell connection diagrams when assembling batteries for electric scooters:

Control

The scooter controls consist of a power switch, gas and brake handles. It is better to make gas in the form of a hook, because it is safer. In case of an unforeseen situation, such a handle is instinctively released.

The brake handle must be equipped with a switch that will turn off the engine when pressed.

Now let's look at a few instructions on how to make an electric scooter using different engines.

Safety precautions

When assembling and testing the battery, you must follow the safety rules:

1. prevent cells from falling and assembling them;
2. Avoid heating and squeezing batteries;
3. do not allow them to be pierced;
4. Avoid short circuits, incorrect polarity and overcharging of batteries;
5. if the temperature rises significantly, stop using the battery or charger;
6. use serviceable elements of proven quality, without obvious damage;
7. use cells with terminals and, when soldering, act on them for no longer than 2 seconds;
8. if possible, replace the soldering of cells using a special “holder” or contacts made of rare-earth magnets, soldering wires to them using low-melting solder and a soldering iron with thermal stabilization.

With a hoverboard wheel

It's enough to make a scooter using a broken hoverboard. Such a device will look quite aesthetically pleasing. In addition, it will have good technical characteristics.

The manufacturing scheme for an electric scooter from a hoverboard is as follows:

• Take one motor-wheel from a hoverboard;
• If we use a frame from a finished scooter, then make a fork to attach the rear wheel under the wheel from a hoverboard. If we make the frame ourselves, then we immediately take into account the fastening;
• Install the motor controller;
• Install the battery;
• Install the throttle handle and the power button.

After installing all the parts and elements, we check the functionality and use it for your pleasure.

How to remove the battery from a scooter

You can replace the battery in a specialized workshop or yourself. Often the battery is located inside the deck (platform) of the electric scooter. To dismantle it, you need to remove the bottom panel by turning the vehicle upside down and snapping off the protective cover. If it is secured with bolts, they need to be unscrewed.

Next, the contacts are disconnected from the battery, and the expired component is removed. A new battery is subsequently installed in its place and the contacts are connected. Finally, the battery compartment cover is tightly closed and the operation of the electrical components is checked.

Using a screwdriver

One of the simple options is to make an electric scooter with your own hands from a screwdriver. In this way, it is unlikely that you will be able to make a powerful and high-speed scooter. But this is undoubtedly the most accessible and cheapest option. For this you will need:

• Screwdriver;
• Regular scooter;
• Bicycle chain;
• Bicycle sprocket;
• Wires.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. A bicycle sprocket is rigidly attached to the rear drive wheel.
2. A small drive sprocket is made of metal, which is clamped into a screwdriver.
3. A screwdriver holder is made from square pipes or corners.
4. The holder is attached to the frame using bolts or rivets. The holder must be attached in such a way that it is possible to adjust the chain tension.
5. The bicycle chain is measured and cut to size.
6. A control button is attached to the handle.

This option is good because you don’t need to place the entire device next to an outlet to charge.

The battery is simply removed from the screwdriver and placed in a standard charger. There is also no risk of fire or explosion of the battery from overcharging.

Preparatory work

To assemble a scooter battery with your own hands, prepare:

• Li-Ion or LiFePO4 batteries - in quantities corresponding to your assembly scheme;
• BMS board - to protect them from overcharge, critical discharge, short circuit and other dangerous conditions;
• fire protection bags;
• connectors, connecting wires;
• textolite for electrical insulation;
• large diameter heat shrink tube;
• soldering iron or spot welding machine;
• Charger;
• ammeter.

You can assemble a battery that is completely identical to the old model, or different from it, for example, to get increased capacity. The main thing is that the new battery has the same dimensions and the same voltage. Voltage compatibility is important for the correct operation of all electrical components. Matching dimensions is especially important for batteries that are located in the deck or steering column of an electric scooter. If the battery is located on the trunk, in a bag or case on the steering wheel, its shape and size can be changed.

Recommendations

Making an electric scooter with your own hands is not a very complicated process, it is creative and interesting. On the Internet you can watch a video on how and what you can use to realize your idea.

As a result, it is possible to make a device of an unusual design with outstanding technical characteristics. There may be mistakes and failures along the way. It is worth noting that a homemade version may not always be cheaper than a factory one.

It all depends on what materials and parts to use. However, repairing a do-it-yourself electric scooter will definitely be easier, because you will know all the parts and components.

And you yourself are responsible for their reliability. After all, if you repair a scooter purchased in a store yourself, this may void the factory warranty.

When making an electric scooter, it is important to consider such points as frame strength and engine power. Its rated voltage and current. Select the correct controller and battery based on engine parameters.

It is necessary to protect the battery pack from damage. It is also worth taking care of the moisture protection of all electrical elements and connections to avoid short circuits. You should refrain from using an electric scooter in rainy weather.

Additional battery in parallel

When your main battery is quite strong, is in a beautiful factory case and performs its functions properly, there is no point in changing it or even messing with it. You can connect a second battery with the same voltage in parallel.

If the second battery is almost identical to the first and has the same capacity, then you can risk connecting them without additional dancing with a tambourine, simply charging both batteries to the same voltage. And you will have to do this every time before a trip.

If you want to connect batteries of different capacities in parallel or charge any of them at any time, whenever convenient and to any voltage, then you need to connect through diodes (Schottky), which will prevent the flow of currents between the batteries. It should be noted that this method (via diodes) is more suitable for geared motors and does not support regeneration and motor braking.

DIY photo of electric scooters

Battery.

The main characteristics of the battery, which are indicated in the catalogs, are its rated voltage and capacity; the larger these parameters, the better. Both of these parameters affect the most important parameter of the battery - energy (power) reserve. This parameter will determine how far you can travel without recharging.

Energy (power) reserve is measured in watt hours (Wh or Wh). For a powerful motor, the energy reserve value must be at least 450 Wh. For average – 250-300 Wh. For the weak – 180-200 Wh. These are the average values ​​of factory modifications. No one forbids powering a medium-power engine from a capacious battery with an energy reserve of 500 or even 600 Wh, as a result the travel range will increase to 50-70 km. That's the beauty of DIY.

The battery voltage is selected depending on the engine voltage, it can be 24V, 36V, 48V or 60V. The most popular batteries are 36V; they are usually equipped with modifications with medium-power engines; weaker models are usually equipped with 24-volt batteries, and powerful ones with 48 or 60 volts.

Capacity is measured in ampere hours (Ah or Ah). Usually it varies between 7-10 Ah; the more powerful the engine, the greater the capacity.

For a powerful electric scooter (500 W), a battery capacity of at least 10 Ah is desirable, at a voltage of 48 V. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 10x48 = 480 Wh.

For a 350 W motor, a capacity of 9 Ah is good, at a voltage of 36 V. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 9x36 = 324 Wh. At higher voltages, the capacity may be smaller, the main thing is that the value in watt hours obtained from the product is not less than 300 Wh.

For weaker models (about 250 W), batteries with a capacity of about 8 Ah, at a voltage of 24 V, are suitable. The energy reserve in this case will be equal to 8x24=192 Wh. If you want to increase battery life, install a medium or even large capacity battery.

The type of battery and manufacturer are also important. They are of the following types:

• Lithium polymer (LiPo) - light weight, high charge and discharge currents, can withstand 500-800 charge cycles, fire hazard in case of overcharging.
• Lithium-ion (LiIon) - light weight, 500-1000 charge cycles, dependence on ambient temperature, fire hazard in case of overcharging.
• Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePo4) - high charge and discharge currents, 1500-2000 cycles, 20% heavier and more expensive than ions and polymers. Not fire hazardous, resistant to mechanical deformation. Do not lose capacity at sub-zero temperatures.
• Lead-acid - much heavier weight, low charge-discharge currents, only 300-400 charge cycles.

Converting a regular scooter into an electric scooter

A homemade electric scooter is a good alternative to an expensive device that can be bought in specialized stores. To save money and not reduce quality, you must correctly perform all the required actions. Among them:

1. Dismantling a broken electric drill with the engine running.
2. They do the same with a non-working angle grinder, leaving only the bevel gear and the axle with the rotor.
3. After this, take the overrunning clutch and install it in the place where the grinder gear disc is fixed.
4. The part is then connected to the removed engine.
5. At the next stage of work, the wheel bearing of a regular scooter is welded to the axle from the angle grinder.
6. The bearing is securely fixed to prevent it from rotating during operation.
7. The engine gearbox axis is connected to the overrunning clutch.
8. A lithium battery is securely attached to the scooter frame.
9. The engine speed control button is connected to the control handle.
10. There are 4 wires running from the regulator, the first pair of which goes to the battery, and the second to the electric motor.
11. All contact points are covered with insulation.
12. The frame of a homemade electric scooter is painted and left for several hours for the applied composition to dry.
13. Turn on the engine and check the functionality of the vehicle.

Read also: Power control on a triac

Deciding on the wheel size

Before you make an electric scooter yourself, you need to decide on the features of its design. Of great importance are the size and type of wheels (they can be cast or inflatable), the presence of suspension, the size of the dropouts for mounting the motor wheel and the location of the battery. The optimal wheel diameter depends on the quality of the roads you plan to drive on. The “micro” option is only suitable for rolling on tiles and good asphalt. “Mini” – allows you to overcome small obstacles on the way. "Midi" allows you to confidently ride at speeds of 40 km/h and above, without fear of small potholes. "Maxi" is perfect for those who like to drive on rough terrain and difficult roads. The suspension partially smooths out impacts. But there is a rule - a wheel can overcome an obstacle not exceeding 1/2 of its diameter.

What is needed to assemble an electric scooter?

If you decide to assemble an electric scooter with your own hands, the most important thing is the selection of the engine and battery, since this vehicle runs on electric power.

The choice of one or another engine with a battery directly affects the maximum speed and mileage:

• If you take lead batteries, you can save a lot, but they are heavy and this must be taken into account.
• A more expensive alternative is lithium phosphate batteries, which are lighter.
• It is best to place the battery under the frame, where in addition to it the controller and alarm will be located. You need to leave at least some space under the seat for luggage.
• It is necessary to understand that assembling an electric scooter with your own hands necessarily involves welding work. If the necessary equipment, tools and skills are not available, then such an undertaking can be much more expensive than a finished electric model.
• But in any case, in the long run it will pay off due to the electric motor, which is much cheaper to refuel.

Set of ready-made components

It is very important to install the electric motor correctly. This is one of the most important points during scooter assembly. It is very important to minimize the sound it will make (it's not the roar of a Ford Mustang). This can be done due to the absence of a commutator and brushes. Often it is placed on the rear wheel, the rotation of which occurs thanks to an electrical circuit that supplies a push to the front one.

It is necessary to look for the necessary components for your electric scooter as responsibly as possible. You can buy an electric motor and battery along with the necessary connectors separately, or you can take the path of least resistance and buy a ready-made kit. Despite the fact that this one will cost more, you can immediately buy a set with a controller and a motor wheel, a charger and a set of hydraulic brakes.

Advantages and disadvantages

For many years now, some European countries have been actively fighting for the environment, so they have banned gasoline scooters. Electric analogues certainly have some advantages in this case:

• Much more modern design.
• The efficiency is much higher.
• There is no need for frequent repairs of the power unit.
• Easy to find spare parts.
• There is virtually no noise when driving.
• Easier to charge.

But they are not without drawbacks in terms of driving range on a single charge. However, for trips around the city this is the best option.

Will such a homemade product be safe?

From the point of view of risks to life - absolutely safe, from the point of view of the wallet - not everything is so simple, because if you don’t understand basic electrics at the level of plus to plus, and minus to minus, then you can burn not only the controller boards, but also the electric motor

The best thing that can happen if assembled incorrectly is that the homemade electric scooter simply won’t move. If you can’t wait to make such a vehicle yourself, it’s better to enlist the help of smart friends who can digest the frame and connect the system correctly.

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