Overview of paintless dent repair tools

Paintless Dent Repair (PDR) is a technology for repairing body dents while preserving the car's original paintwork. Paintless repair specialists use various PDR tools to attack the dent on the back side of the body panel, or pull it out from the front side with an adhesive system, or combine both methods. In addition, special punches and hammers are used to tap and lower the heights of the metal.

In this article, we will look at what tools are used for paintless car dent repair, their characteristics and methods of application.

The content of the article:

PDR Tools

The first teams of PDR specialists began to form in the quality control departments of auto giants. They needed to create the necessary tools to successfully straighten out the small dents that were sometimes created during the manufacturing and assembly of automobiles. Initially these instruments were homemade. They were converted from existing tools of “tinsmiths”, and also invented new unique devices and improved them over time. You can read in more detail about the emergence of paintless dent repair technology in the article “history of the emergence of PDR technology.”

Homemade paintless dent repair tools were used many years ago by the early PDR technicians.
PDR technology has improved significantly over the past 15 years. Nowadays, qualified PDR technicians can straighten quite complex dents without painting. This is possible thanks to the range of modern tools, as well as the elasticity of modern paint coatings.

There are now many manufacturers that provide a wide range of paintless dent repair tools and accessories.

PDR tools can be classified by design and by application (intended purpose).

By design, instruments can differ in bend (single, double, triple bend, or more complex shapes), tip shape, length, tool diameter, shape and configuration of the handle.

By application, tools can be classified depending on which body panels they are used on or what action they perform. For example, classic hooks (or rods, from the English rod) are designed to work in open, fairly accessible places, such as fenders, roofs, trunks, hoods. They work by applying pressure to the back of the dent. Another example is the whale tail tool. This tool, in contrast to classic hooks, is used in hard-to-reach narrow places and works due to the twisting action. Additionally, PDR technicians use special reflective panels to accurately “read” dents, LED lights, and an adhesive system to pull out dents. Correcting different dents may require the use of multiple tools. The more tools you have at your disposal, the more freedom and flexibility you will have to repair a specific dent.

Next, we will look in order at the various tools that are used for paintless dent repair, as well as the necessary accessories.

PDR hooks (PDR rods)

PDR hooks are the staple tools that fill a craftsman's toolbox. Various in shape and size, they are used on every panel of the car. Most craftsmen use a rigid hook (or rod) 120 cm long for all open, fairly accessible places, such as roofs, hoods, trunk lids, fenders. Shorter versions of the same hooks are used for doors. Hooks can provide consistent and very controlled pressure to lift metal.

Hooks differ in length (from 40 cm to 2 m), bends, diameter and tip shape. It is better to have a set of different hooks, from which over time you can choose the ones that are most preferable for the job.

Some PDR tool companies create ratchet handle pdr tools. This is a great addition because the technician can use one tool for different positions and apply different amounts of force on the lever. Hooks are available with interchangeable tips, making one tool more versatile and saving space in your toolbox or bag.

Door hooks PDR (PDR door hooks)

Door hooks are used to work with door damage through the gap between the door glass and the panel, allowing you to straighten dents without having to remove the trim. Door hooks have different bending angles (from 90 to 180 degrees) and different lengths, with a narrow tip for better maneuverability. For ease of operation and increased functionality, door hooks can have a rotary handle.

These hooks are mainly used on the top of doors.

Brace tool (eng. brace - bracket, spacer)

Tools for use under panel reinforcements. There are versions for left and right hands. Designed to maximize reach and minimize ridges from tool use. This tool is often used to repair hail dents.

Dent Reaper

This type of hook is quite new. Dent Reapers provide strong pressure, do not bend, and have sharp tips for finishing.

Sickle/scythe hooks work well in doors and can also be used on other panels. They are “powerful” and precise in application. Increases work efficiency. Excellent for working with aluminum panels.

Knife-shaped/knife “shaved” hooks ( SHAVED TOOLS )

Knife/knife-shaped or “shaved” (from English shaved) hooks are designed to work in areas of difficult access, in narrow cavities, under amplifiers.

This tool is a hook with the barrel cut at an angle from the base to the working part. Shaved hooks come in different sizes. What they all have in common is slim design and flexibility. In terms of capabilities, these hooks are close to the “whale tail” tool, but they have a different principle of influencing the dent. Used to repair hail dents, especially under hood, roof and trunk reinforcements. Well suited for work in the rear fenders, where two metals are pressed closely together. Also good as an auxiliary tool, helping with finishing work in the final stages.

Due to the thin barrel, “shaved” hooks are not used on hard places, curves, or dense metal.

Whale tail

Whale tail instruments are named after the shape of their tip. They provide leverage at the edges of the tip. Whale tails come in different lengths from 10 cm to 150 cm with tips of different widths (from 1 cm to 10 cm - ultra-thin, thin, standard, wide and extra wide). The tips are completely rounded at the top.

They are used to work under panel reinforcements. Whale tail tools are not the easiest to learn. They work by twisting rather than pushing/pressing like regular hooks.

How to straighten a dent on a body: available methods

As mentioned above, at home you can efficiently remove a dent if the metal has simply moved. In fact, the material just needs to be “squeezed out” and placed in place. As a result, the “memory” effect of the stamped metal will appear, that is, the displacement (dent) will be eliminated.

In short, a body panel stamped from sheet metal has a “memory”. In this case, if the shape changes, the metal experiences stress and tends to return back. It turns out that if you release the tension, the panel will take its natural shape.

Please note that the dent must be removed as soon as possible, since over time the deformed metal will lose its “memory” and its ductility will change. This means that it may no longer be possible to remove the dent without leaving a trace.

Let us also add that the dent on the body is a depression, but the edges around the dent rise. In fact, the more the panel is convex, the more noticeable it is. This means that along the edges of the dent it is also necessary to remove even raised areas that are not noticeable at first glance.

• So, the first way to remove dents is by heating the metal and then tapping it. This method works well for large dents. Heating is carried out with a hair dryer (you can try a household hair dryer, but it is optimal to use a construction hair dryer).

Moving the hair dryer 10 cm from the surface (so as not to damage the paintwork), after heating it is necessary to apply pressure from the back side of the panel. To do this, you need to implement access in advance. Next, just press on the heated area in the middle with your hand, the handle of a hammer, etc. You can first heat the edges of the dent, thus reducing the overall stress on the metal. By the way, large dents are straightened from the edges to the center, pressing and smoothing in a spiral.

• The second method is heating and rapid cooling. As you know, heated metal expands. If it is cooled sharply, shrinkage will occur due to the weakening of the tension. In fact, the dent itself can “play” in the opposite direction with a characteristic click. The method is great for large dents with shallow depths, but is only good for metal and does not work on plastic.

To remove a dent using this method, it is quite effective in this case to use a DUST OFF type canister to blow out dust or dry ice for quick cooling. The main thing when using dry ice is to remove contaminants from the surface of the dent before heating and cooling to avoid uneven heating of the metal.

It is important to heat the dent so that its center is hot while the edges are cold. Subsequently, sharp cooling of the edges contracts the metal, while the heated center expands and straightening occurs. If you cool the entire dent, you will not be able to achieve a positive result.

In a nutshell, with a construction hairdryer, first heat the center of the dent (40-60 seconds), constantly moving the hairdryer and holding it at a distance of about 10 cm from the paintwork. Then you need to wait a few seconds and spray the can in a circular motion around the dent. Spraying is carried out at a height of about 30 mm above the surface.

The gas escaping from the can causes a sharp cooling of the surface, forming icing. As for dry ice, this ice is held with gloves or through a rag, cooling the edges of the dent. Additionally, you can tap around the dent with your hand to help the metal return to the desired position. Let us add that small dents are more difficult to remove using this method. Often they can be made smaller, but they cannot be completely removed.

• The next way is to remove dents without painting with a vacuum cleaner. To do this, you need a small bucket that can cover the entire dent, a powerful vacuum cleaner, and adhesive tape (you can replace the adhesive tape with masking tape). There should be no cracks, holes or gaps in the bucket itself, but you need to make a small hole in the center of the bottom.

You also need to prepare a sponge, soap solution, and rags. First of all, the entire surface to be repaired is washed with soapy water, wiped and dried. Next you need to apply the tape. The edges of the bucket are also covered with tape to avoid damaging the paintwork.

We also recommend reading the article about what ceramics for a car body are. From this article you will learn what a ceramic coating for a car body is, how this solution protects paintwork, what effect you can expect after application, what is the service life of a ceramic body coating, etc.

Afterwards, the bucket is placed over the dent and glued with tape. It is important to glue the bucket as tightly and airtight as possible, without obvious gaps. You can now turn on the vacuum cleaner by placing the hose hose against the hole at the bottom of the bucket. You need to make sure that the vacuum cleaner draws in air as best as possible. Also, on the back side of the dent (if possible), it is necessary to squeeze out the defect from the inside.

• Another option is to repair dents without painting using hot glue. The basic idea is to apply hot glue, then glue the pull-out elements to the dent at several points. Then, after the glue has cured, you can pull out the dent and straighten the metal.

By the way, this solution is also actively used by professionals, but in artisanal conditions, when there is no professional set, it is enough to take a wooden block, dowel, etc. Next, you will need to screw a couple of screws to the wooden element.

Next, the block is simply glued to the dent, after which you need to pull the screws. This method allows you to remove both large dents and medium-sized defects. Everything will depend on the quality of the glue and the rigidity of the panel being restored.

Usually, for harder metal, the procedure is repeated several times. Small dents are removed by gluing a dowel in the center, while large ones are pulled out starting from the edge. At the same time, the elevations are tapped. After the procedure is completed, the remaining glue is removed by heating it with a hairdryer. The final step is wiping with isopropyl alcohol.

• A fairly common method is to tap the dent with a reverse hammer. You can make such a reverse hammer yourself. To do this, take a steel rod (3–5 mm thick), as well as a piece of pipe.

Next, glue the rod to the center of the dent, after which you need to wait for the glue to dry. Then, when the glue has hardened, they begin to slide the pipe along the rod. The professional tool in the dent pulling kit works in a similar way.

We also note that the places where the pulling element is glued must be degreased with isopropyl alcohol. It is also not recommended to apply a lot of glue to the points where the tool is glued.

Experts also recommend simultaneously heating the dent with a hairdryer, while simultaneously creating force on the tool. However, it is not recommended to try to pull out the dent right away. It is better to gradually return to the desired shape by heating the edges of the dent. Also, do not forget to tap the edges of the dent with a punch.

• A fairly simple and effective way to remove large dents is to pull the dent out with a plunger. A sink plunger is suitable for this task. In fact, it is a suction cup that allows you to pull out metal quickly and easily. The only drawback is that this method often involves the presence of irregularities along the edges of the dent.

In short, first the rubber of the plunger and the surface of the dent are moistened with hot water, after which the plunger is placed against the dent, pressed on it and pulled back with a sharp movement. This approach effectively removes dents on the body with smooth edges. In this case, metal creases at the edges may still remain, which will require additional work.

• The list ends with a method for straightening dents using a rubber ball. The main task is to place the deflated ball so that it rests on the inside of the panel under the dent. Next, a stop is installed, and a cloth needs to be placed under the ball.

Then the ball begins to be inflated with a pump, as a result of which pressure appears on the dent from the back side. The main thing is not to overinflate the ball, so as not to crush the metal and get a bulge instead of a dent.

It is important to position the ball so that you can access the valve to inflate it, and also be able to connect the pump hose. The ball must be inflated slowly until the dent is leveled out. Next, after disconnecting the pump, you should bleed the air from the ball. While inflating the ball, you can heat the dent from the outside with a hairdryer to increase the elasticity of the metal.

Tools with replaceable tips

Interchangeable tips allow you to use one tool in different situations, replacing several tools, which increases its flexibility of use and saves space in the master's bag or drawer.

Replacement attachments are designed for use with hooks, punches and hammers that are threaded for them. Nozzles or tips come in different shapes and sizes, and are also made of different materials, which gives them differences in properties (in particular, different hardness). The most common ones include coated, plastic, uncoated steel, pointed, rounded, and mushroom-shaped tips. Each tip plays a different role. Generally, the larger the dent, the larger the tip of the tool. However, you need to consider each dent, take into account its structure and choose the most suitable tips and methods of exposure. Typically, straightening starts with large tips to reduce the overall size of the dent, and then gradually reduces the tip size as the dents become smaller.

Let's look at the types of replacement tips installed on hooks and when they are used.

• Tips are made of different materials (steel, plastic, rubber and others). Some have a coating (PVC or rubber) that acts as a damper to soften pressure on the panel. When using uncoated metal tips, you need to be careful and know what you are doing, as bare metal can damage the paintwork if pressed hard. Coated or plastic tips are safer in this regard.
• Large mushroom tip with PVC coating. This tip is great for removing large, “soft” dents. It is suitable for quickly lifting large areas of metal. The mushroom shape is useful in cases where a lot of pressure is required on the dent. This tip provides very strong leverage. This type of tip comes in different sizes. The larger size acts the same as the small one, but with an even greater range.
• A large round rubber tip is used to start pressing out large dents.

• A plastic conical (pointed) tip works well on body lines (stiffeners, edges). The pointed plastic tip, if pressed too hard, can crush the metal and create a raised area, but will not damage the paint, unlike metal. That is, the likelihood of straightening the “edge” of the body increases before you damage the paint. Plastic can vary in rigidity and have different effects on metal. Stiffer plastics can be used on both aluminum and steel panels. Softer plastic will not be able to dent an aluminum panel with sufficient force, since this requires a stronger force than steel. With strong pressure, a sharp tip made of soft plastic may lose its shape and the pressure will not be clear; a harder material retains its shape and provides a clear, strong pressure.
• Sharp metal tip. Its location is easier to determine from the back of the panel, as it gives a clear point effect. When using a sharp metal tip, you need to clearly know what you are doing. This type of tip cannot be pressed randomly onto the metal, as this will create many sharp peaks. The sharp tips can become dull over time, so you can adjust their shape yourself, if necessary.
• Slightly tapered tip. It is best suited for small dents. Its shape will give you precision but little leverage.
• The tip is cone-shaped with a rounded center. This tip provides sufficient force and is quite accurate.

• Roller Rod Tips allow you to apply more pressure to the panel without leaving a raised area, thereby increasing the visibility of the tip from the back of the panel. Wider rollers allow you to straighten larger and deeper dents with less tendency to tear the paint or stretch the dent. A roller tip with a thinner profile is used for finishing the panel. These tips can have different hardness, as they are made of hard or soft plastic.

Vacuum

Removing dents without painting using the vacuum method is similar in process to adhesive technology. However, it has one undeniable advantage over it. Once the repair is complete, there is no need to remove the adhesive at the risk of damaging the paintwork or re-deforming the surface.

Removing a medium-sized dent on a car is done using a vacuum suction cup. Different models have different sole areas. The ideal option is when the sole of the suction cup is slightly missing from the border of the defect.

The preparatory process is limited only to cleaning the working surface. A vacuum is created in the installed suction cup using an electric or manual pump. After achieving a tight and reliable fit, the hose is disconnected and you can begin straightening the dents.

After the surface has taken on its original appearance, a special valve opens and the suction cup is easily removed from the car body.

Hammers, smoothers and supports (counter supports) for repairing dents

Hammers, trowels and supports have been used in auto body repair to straighten dents for a long time. They are also used for paintless dent repair, but they differ from conventional tools for body repair. Supports and smoothers for paintless dent repair have a perfectly smooth, polished surface or contain a softening coating so as not to leave any marks or damage on the paintwork when exposed to the panel.

• Paintless repair hammers are used to lower high spots. They can have replaceable attachments to change the characteristics of the striker.
• Supports (or counter supports) are auxiliary tools used to support the metal on the back of a panel when straightening with a hammer or float. There are many different shapes and sizes of counter supports. Selecting the correct shaped support is critical to the outcome of the repair. It is selected taking into account the bend of the panel being repaired. The counter support provides support for the panel and prevents undamaged areas from being crushed. An example of using support would be leveling (tapping) hills around dents from large hail. Such dents can be about 10 cm in diameter. To eliminate the bulk of the damage, it is necessary to remove the high spots around these dents. This is where supports and special hammers come into play.

Smooth with a soft pad to soften the impact.

• A smoothing iron is a hand tool with a smooth spring steel surface that is great for smoothing corrugated metal. The trowel controls more impact surface than any hammer. At the same time, it is easy to use. The float is used with support when lifting metal and can be used without support to lower elevated areas. The smoother may have a leather pad on the front side to soften the impact.

Percussion

Straightening without painting is used if the damage is above average in size. To accomplish the task, rubberized mallets and hooks of different shapes are used. Using mallets, the inner surface is tapped, making it easier to repair damage. When removing paintless dents by straightening, not strong, but frequent blows are applied. At the final stage, the surface is polished.

Punchers (cores, cue balls)

A punch (also called a core or cue ball, English knockdown tool) is an essential PDR tool. You will use it regularly. Most high-quality craftsmen can boast that they limit the use of a punch, but there is not a single craftsman who could do without it.

With paintless repair, dents are not just sharply straightened out from the impact on them, they are slowly and methodically squeezed out with hundreds of tiny pressures. Sometimes the pressure on the metal is past where it should be. This can be accidental, and sometimes even on purpose. This creates hills that need to be removed with a punch. The tip of the punch is located directly at the high point and lowers it down by hitting the PDR punch with a hammer or other light object.

On some dents, it is necessary to tap the raised areas around their perimeter to relieve stress and soften the metal before straightening the metal begins.

Punchers can be made of different materials and also differ in the shape of the tip. They can be blunt, sharp, rounded, or mushroom-shaped. The sharpness of the tip depends on the size and shape of the hills. Tapping with a heavier punch (such as steel) with a soft, rounded tip will take much less time to move the same amount of metal than tapping with a lighter nylon punch. A lighter punch requires much more hammering or striking force to create the same impact as a heavier punch.

The type and material of the hammer used to strike the punch does not matter much; what is important is its weight, which will affect the force of the blow. In addition to the hammer, you can use other objects if it is more convenient for the master.

It is recommended to purchase one punch with replaceable tips.

In general, to tap high spots during dent repair, either a punch or a special hammer without using a punch can be used. So-called blending hammers are best used for larger, softer high points. Punchers are generally best suited for sharper elevations.

External leveling with special equipment

External straightening of dents without painting is recommended in cases where it is not possible to perform this task from the inside for certain reasons. Elimination of defects in the damaged area is carried out using:

• adhesive applicators;
• glue;
• vacuum suction cup;
• fluoroplastic bumpers;
• mini-lifter.

Adhesive applicators must be secured in the damaged areas and not touched while drying. The mini-lifter allows you to pull out the dent by acting on the central point. The final stage is removing the glue. As a result, painting the damaged area is not required.

Other tools can be used as an analogue. This method is performed in a similar way, but a piston is attached to the center of the damage, with which it is pulled out. The principle is as simple as the previous method.

If the necessary equipment is not available, you can use a suction cup and hot glue at home. The nozzles must match the dimensions of the dent. They are fixed to the surface. Pulling occurs in a similar way to professional tools.

Adhesive system

The PDR adhesive system is designed for pulling out dents from the face of a panel and includes a glue gun with special glue sticks, special pull-out clips, pull-out devices and a tool for removing glue from panels and clips.

• Glue guns come in electric (corded or battery-powered) or gas. Glue sticks, as a rule, differ from the usual ones sold in hardware stores, have better adhesion, and are more durable. The rods come in different colors, which marks their characteristics. They mainly differ in the temperature at which the repair will be carried out, as well as the strength of the bond.
• PDR Pull Clips come in different sizes, shapes, designs and colors. They can also vary in strength. As a rule, the shape of the clip is selected to match the structure of the damage. Now there are special reinforced long strips that replace several clips and make it easier to pull out complex dents.
• Pulling devices. Once you have the clip glued to the dent, you will need a puller to pull one or more of the clips. For pulling, a sliding hammer, a mini-lift, a large lifting device, or a lever-type device is used. Different devices must be selected depending on the damage. Don't expect a blowback hammer or mini lift to pull out a dent in a panel and return the metal to factory condition with minimal effort. It is more correct to perceive these devices as one of many tools that you may need to achieve results. You may need to do several repeated stretches. You may also need to tap the high spots around the dent with a special punch and use PDR hand tools to finish the bumps.
• Glue remover. Sometimes the adhesive is not easy to remove from the panel or clip, in which case you will need a tool to make the adhesive easier to remove. There are special formulations, and you can also use alcohol.

For professional use, harder types of clips are most often used, while softer clips provide less precise control over tension.

“Glue Pull Repair” (GPR), used without or in combination with PDR tools, has become a very powerful system thanks to its wide range of different types of glue, clips (or pull bars) and many pull devices. A modern adhesive system with all accessories and additional tools allows you to replace the use of a spotter and many other straightening tools.

Set of rubber mallets and anvil

Rubber mallets and anvils are used if it is necessary to tap out the dent from the inside. The anvil is used from the outside. It is impossible to perform straightening to straighten dents using tools separately, since it can only make things worse.

It is also not recommended to use other types of mallets. Only the rubberized surface prevents the coating from damage. If you use mallets that do not have a rubberized coating, painting will be required after the editing is completed.

Pneumatic suction cup puller

The pneumatic suction cup is sold in a set with several suction cups of different sizes (usually three). Depending on the size, it can create different pulling forces.

It is attached to the rods of a sliding reverse action hammer. The suction cup is made of rubber and plastic. The suction cup can work with both metal panels and plastic bumpers.

This tool can remove large dents very quickly. Used at the initial stage of repair, to eliminate the bulk of dents.

Auxiliary accessories

Accessories for working with doors through a window opening (window protector PDR and wedge)

To repair door dents, PDR tools are typically positioned between the door panel and the door glass. To prevent damage to the glass, a window protector with a special wedge is used. All you need to do is lower the glass down, insert the wedge and protective protector, creating space for the tool to work. Also, instead of a wedge, an air cushion is used, which easily increases the gap between the glass and the panel, providing better access for the tool.

There are different types of protectors on the market, but the most common is a plastic or metal sheet with a right angle at the edge.

Before you start working with doors, you need to consider the type of glass installed in them. Typically, side windows are made of stalinite (tempered glass), but some modern cars may now have laminated side windows. For this type of glass, the pressure that can be applied to them during repairs (even through a plastic protector) is critical.

Before repairing, it is better to always check the glass of the door on which the dent will be repaired. Laminated glass can be recognized by its 2-layer structure, which can be seen at the top of the glass. If the glass looks like 2 layers glued together, this is a sign of laminated glass. In contrast, the layering will not be visible along the edge of a piece of tempered glass. It will look like a completely smooth, solid piece. Also in the corner of the glass there may be the designation “laminated” or “tempered”.

If the glass is laminated, it is better to follow the following recommendations to minimize the likelihood of damage to the glass.

1. Remove the molding at the top edge of the doorway.
2. Lower the glass so that it protrudes about 7–8 cm from the opening.
3. Use an air cushion to create space between the glass and the panel. Do not use a wedge for this as the pressure on laminated glass is dangerous.
4. Always use a metal glass protector for laminated glass.

Removing the molding from the top of the door allows more clearance to insert the tool between the glass and the door panel. This will provide enough space for the tool. By leaving 7-8 cm of glass raised, you can apply more even pressure to the center of the glass with the air cushion, rather than concentrating all the pressure on the top edge. The metal protector also helps dissipate the pressure you will apply to the glass with the tool.

Since laminated glass is easier to damage than tempered glass during PDR door dent repair, sometimes if the car is expensive, the safest way is to remove the door inner trim and glass.

Hood stand _ _

The bench is typically used to repair dents on the hood when they cannot be repaired on the car. The stand simplifies the work. The panel is firmly fixed on the stand and the master can easily access the back side at any point.

Modern stands have adjustments, which allows them to be used for hoods of different sizes, as well as for trunk lids. The stand folds easily for compact storage.

Stops, clamps, hangers

To repair dents on a car body, in addition to special tools, stops and clamps are required. It is important to fix the movable panel being repaired (hood, trunk lid or door) in a convenient position. For this purpose, special stops and clamps are used.

The hangers are designed to provide support and proper leverage for the hooks when repairing dents. Usually attached to the technological holes of the body. They come in different shapes and sizes. Carbines are also used for these purposes. They hold larger instruments while removing extensive damage.

Knives for cutting sealant

Knives for cutting sealant are necessary when repairing dents under reinforcements. The knife allows you to carefully cut off the sealant without scratching the paintwork. These knives are sharp and flexible. They can have different lengths and different handles.

Using a heating-cooling hair dryer

This method of surface restoration is performed using a hair dryer. When exposed to the tool, metal components are heated and cooled, which allows damage to be removed without painting. When carrying out work with a construction hairdryer, it is additionally necessary to use:

• gloves;
• respirator;
• polishes.

An electric tool creates a difference between the overall temperature and the temperature of the working surface. This method ensures straightening of the metal without painting. Heating the dent is done using smooth circular movements with a hairdryer around the perimeter of the damage.

After this, the surface is cooled with compressed air. If the damage is of medium size, then heating must be done in stages in different zones. When the task is completed, the area of ​​the corrected dent is treated with polish. The process does not require painting the restoration area, which is time-consuming and expensive.

PDR lighting

Lighting and reflection is one of the most important components of a PDR repair. PDR lamps are used indoors and allow a specialist to see dents on car body panels in more detail. There are two types of lighting currently in use: fluorescent and LED. With the introduction of LED lighting, things have definitely changed. LEDs allow you to have more compact, lightweight and very durable lamps. LED panels can change the light intensity, and even color. This is necessary for cars of different colors. For example, light-colored panels may be difficult to repair without painting using a standard white light PDR lamp.

Lamps for PDR repair may contain a special light diffuser. Usually these are parallel lines or the so-called fog board. The color and design used on the face of the lamp is the personal preference of the artist. Such diffusers or screens can be purchased separately and placed on the lamp or replaced with an existing diffuser. They help achieve high detail defects.

Reflective screens (reflective screens/panels) are a panel with a specific pattern (usually parallel lines). They, unlike a special lamp with lines, do not produce their own light, but reflect existing light (for example, sunlight) and cast lines onto the panel being repaired, helping to better see the damage.

So the purpose of the PDR light (or reflective screen) is to allow the technician to see the damage pattern that is happening inside the dent. By reading shadows and distorted reflections, a specialist can determine where the metal is high and where it is low. The craftsman also uses reflection to guide the tip of the tool exactly where it should be. Further, the reflection helps to monitor the repair process, allows you to develop precise force and stop pressing in time. After manipulating with the PDR tools, once the distorted lines become parallel in the panel reflection, the dent will be successfully corrected.

PDR lamps come in different sizes and variations. In general, they can be divided into stationary lamps for workshops and portable ones.

• Stationary lamps are mounted on collapsible tripods, allowing you to work with large volumes of damage. They can rotate and can be installed at any angle. These lamps are useful for repairing hail damage and can illuminate the entire roof or other panels.
• Portable PDR lamps usually range from 25 cm to 50 cm in length. They are easy to move and are usually mounted on the car using a suction cup. Mobile lamps are designed to work both in stationary conditions and on the road. They allow you to work with minor damage and damage of medium complexity.

When choosing a PDR lamp, consider the following factors:

• Size
• Ease of installation and setup
• Personalization (can you change the light intensity, color)
• Battery life (in the case of a portable lamp)
• Durability

PDR Tool Kits

Tools for paintless dent repair can be purchased individually or in kits. Kit sizes range from simple starter kits to complex professional kits. Before purchasing, it is better to study different tools so that you have an idea of ​​what is offered to you.

It is better to buy tools not in sets, but separately. The kit may not include hooks, but may not include the tools you need. In any case, you need to study the assortment before purchasing.

Which tool should I choose to repair a specific dent?

Tools come in different lengths, shapes and sizes. Each tool is uniquely designed for a specific purpose, and a PDR technician has a variety of tools to access even the most difficult to reach areas of the vehicle.

How do you know which tool to use for a certain dent? There are two main things to consider, one is “reach” and the other is “leverage”. That is, whether you can reach the back of the dent and whether you can influence it. This will help narrow down your choices among the available tools.

It really doesn't matter what tool you use, the main thing is to get the result. There may be more than one way to repair the same damage. In addition to the classic PDR hand tools, do not forget about the capabilities of the adhesive system. With its improvement, the possibilities of paintless dent repair have expanded significantly.

Brands of PDR tools

Now there are many different companies producing PDR tools and accessories. It is better not to buy cheap analogues from unknown companies or even kits without a name. Tools from well-known, proven brands are thoroughly tested and tested by experienced paintless repair specialists. Specialists from PDR tool manufacturing companies maintain feedback with craftsmen and also take into account requests for the necessary modification of some tools.

The highest quality and most proven instruments are from American companies, such as Dentcraft Tools, A‑1 Tools , PDR Finesse Tools, Ultra Dent Tools and others. Also worth mentioning are KECO and Blackplague PDR, which sell innovative tools and adhesive system materials for pulling out complex deformations.