Do-it-yourself tire lugs » Useful homemade products - do it yourself.

Alternative options

Automotive stores sell traction control bracelets - a worthy alternative to chain equipment.
They are distinguished by the possibility of quick installation and low price. But even here the engineering thought of our motorists does not stand still; they have skillfully learned to copy factory copies. Bracelets are the same homemade snow chains, but without longitudinal elements; their advantages are as follows:

1. Ease of manufacture.
2. Quick installation.
3. High efficiency and reliability.

To make it you will need a modest kit:

• VAZ muffler mounting element made of rubber;
• bolts 40-60 mm long, washers and nuts;
• a tube with a diameter equal to the diameter of the bolt;
• steel chain with a diameter of at least 5-6 mm.

To equip wheels with standard sizes 195 and 205 mm, 4-5 meters of hardware products will be required. Stores also sell ready-made kits for self-assembly of bracelets, with the exception of Chinese kits, they are of fairly decent quality and inexpensive. It consists of:

• blanks;
• fastening accessories;
• sling;
• clamp lock.

The kit is easy to use, transported in a special case and does not take up much extra space. An important advantage of metal bracelets is the possibility of installation on wheels with disc brakes. And if you take into account the reviews, then owners of expensive foreign cars do not hesitate to use such devices, which also says a lot.

Design features of homemade chains for car wheels

The basic design is a simple structure that consists of a set of steel links or reinforced wire. Uniform distribution of components over the entire tire area is the key to successful operation of the product.

Classic DIY snow chains in the video look like two elements that are located longitudinally along the radius of the wheel on the outer and inner sides. They are connected to each other by transverse parts, the so-called lugs. The manufacturing method is not difficult even for novice motorists. The arrangement of parts is carried out according to three schemes:

Each of the above types has its own disadvantages and advantages. The first option with a “ladder” is the most affordable in financial terms, as well as in terms of labor costs. No less interesting is the solution with bracelets, which are also convenient when installed on a wheel.

The second option based on Zhiguli wheels

A complete set of disks will be needed, since tires can be placed on one pair and used for transportation on asphalt roads, and the second pair can be used as traditional lugs.

Sequencing:

1. cut a steel corner with a side of 5-6 cm into pieces wider than the existing disks;
2. In the center of one side, use a grinder to cut out a triangular area. It is this part that they will touch on the lug;
3. Heat the corner with a burner and bend it slightly. Additionally, we tack by welding to strengthen the workpiece;
4. We weld the spikes from the corners along the outer rim of the machine disk at equal intervals (a step of 15 cm would be optimal, directing the pointed part as the walk-behind tractor moves).

Similar operations are repeated for the second disk, as shown in the video.

Using our recommendations, you can make homemade lugs for any brand and model of walk-behind tractors: Agat, Salyut or Neva. The dimensional differences between the models of these cultivators are insignificant, so the lugs from the Neva MB-1 series are also suitable for later versions - MB-2, MB-21, etc., expanding the scope of their application.

Where is a car lug used?

If your car gets into trouble on a long trip and gets stuck in mud or a hole, our car grouser clamp will immediately come to the rescue. It was designed for car tires, but will also fit any car model, provided the wheel height matches. And if your wheel diameter is different, we can make a clamp for you individually, for any size you ordered.

Just imagine with what ease and absolute ease you can pull your own car out of any mud.

The grouser clamp is very easily installed on the wheel rubber and simply snaps into place. After this simple procedure, you can simply step on the gas harder, and the car will easily get out of the captivity of the off-road. Car lugs will not only help you pull your car out of a hole or deep mud, but also drive it even on the most difficult road from 5 to 10 km.

Making the base

First you need to cut the plywood sheets, according to the design of the climbing wall you created with your own hands. You can do this operation yourself using a milling tool or order cutting to specialists. Many hardware stores provide a similar service. Marks for future holes are marked on the finished base.

It is recommended to maintain the grid with a pitch of 200-250 mm vertically and horizontally. This will allow you to rearrange the holds in other positions, displaying several options for lifting routes. If the diameter of the nut is 10, use an 11 mm drill and a drill to make the holes themselves. The operation is performed from the front side, which will allow possible chips to be removed to the back of the sheet. Special clamps (“bulldogs”) are driven into each socket. The finished base is screwed onto the frame using suitable screws. Then the surface is sanded and painted, if desired.

Do-it-yourself caterpillar for a motorized towing vehicle

A motorized towing vehicle, popularly called a “motor dog,” is ideally suited for use in northern latitudes with good snow cover. Using a walk-behind tractor, you can independently make an alternative to a dog sled, a high-speed tracked vehicle that can tow a sled with a person or a small load in the snow.

Making a caterpillar for a motorized dog with your own hands is not at all difficult.

You can use an old gooseneck from a Buran snowmobile. To increase the chassis, you should cut it in half and build it up using inserts. The tracks can be carriages from the old Buran. Three carriages with rollers are enough. They also need to be sawn and extended with inserts.

In the absence of old spare parts, a caterpillar for a motorized towing vehicle can be made from improvised materials using one of the methods described above. For example, from a conveyor belt.

For production you will need:

• conveyor belt with a width of 22 cm;
• metal bars for reinforcement;
• hardwood timber blocks for track tracks.

We bring to your attention a video showing the caterpillar manufacturing process.

Making tracks for a walk-behind tractor is a simple process, although it requires a sufficient amount of time. It is also necessary to make every effort and skill to ensure that all links of the goose are located at an equal distance from each other. This will help to avoid distortions and sliding of the caterpillar track from the load-bearing surfaces.

Installation features

A homemade climbing simulator is a plywood board, which is reinforced along the perimeter with wooden blocks or steel crossbars. Additional rigidity of the structure is provided by additional stiffeners made of timber or similar material.

Prepared holds for a climbing wall are mounted on a fixed shield with your own hands or with the help of specialists. These can be hooks, artificial or natural stones of various shapes and sizes. You can buy devices in sports stores or through interactive trading platforms. The hooks should be of a normal size so that the child’s legs and arms do not experience excessive stress. Good modifications for climbing devices are made from a mixture of quartz sand and polymers. This surface of the parts makes it possible to provide the necessary softness and roughness, ensuring no slipping during ascent or descent. At the initial stage of training, smaller protrusions are used as support for the legs. As the athlete's skill increases, they can be moved higher, using them as handholds.

How to choose snow chains

Their assortment is very large. When choosing, you need to take into account first of all the tire sizes, tread width, wheel arch size, as well as the conditions under which they will be used in the future.

Dimensions of links in chains for driving in winter and summer

Designation: D - diameter of links, L - length, W - width.

The advantage of rigid chains is their better adaptability to rough off-road conditions, however, their disadvantage is the speed limit (up to 40 km/h) and the possibility of damage to vehicle transmission elements.

Soft chains allow you to reach speeds of up to 80 km/h; they are more harmless to the treads and wear out the rubber much less. However, their disadvantage is that they cope with off-road conditions much worse.

The most reliable, high-quality and more expensive chains are those made of titanium or stainless steel.

How to make lugs with a more complex design?

The above methods for manufacturing lugs are very simple, but options with more complex designs can also be considered.

You need to acquire the following details:

• a steel sheet with a thickness of 3-5 millimeters, which will be used for a steel disk;
• a strip of steel with a thickness of 5 millimeters and a width of 50 millimeters; the outer hoop will be made from it. A total of six hoops are needed to make the wheel heavier and stronger;
• a steel strip with a thickness of 8-10 millimeters, it is needed for hooking;
• drill or drill;
• grinder;
• welding machine.

Arc welding is used to connect all the parts, since a gas torch cannot cope with such a thickness of metal.

The lugs are manufactured according to the following scheme:

1. The axles are lengthened. This needs to be done because the size of the lugs requires more mounting space than standard wheels;
2. It is necessary to be able to adjust the position of the track to process beds of different widths;
3. Two central disks are made from profiled steel sheet;
4. Three external hoops and hooks are welded to the end parts of the product;
5. Steel plates are welded to the hoops. Their placement should be diagonal like a snake;
6. Each plate is ground for optimal traction.

Designs for “advanced” farmers

Simple designs from Zhiguli wheels can be easily made, but their consumer properties are not ideal. Therefore, in special cases, there is a need for homemade assembly of lugs, which are no worse than factory models, and they can weigh down the walk-behind tractor well.

For the manufacture of complex structures, it is necessary:

• Steel sheet 4-5 millimeters for the main circle.
• Steel strip 50 millimeters, 4-5 millimeters thick for the supporting surface. There should be 6 of them. They strengthen the disc well and make it heavier.
• Sheet of steel 8-10 millimeters for creating hooks.
• Welding machine (automatic or semi-automatic), drill, grinder, drilling workbench.

All parts are connected using electric welding, since a gas torch will not be able to heat metal of such thickness.

Due to the fact that the diameter of the lugs is larger than that of conventional wheels attached to a walk-behind tractor, it is necessary to lengthen their axles.

In this case, it is advisable to provide the ability to adjust the length of such axes, since the rows on the field can be of different widths. Thus, by moving the wheels with hooks vertically, you can set them to any level, width and position. In this case, the weight of each wheel will be at least 10 kilograms, and this provides excellent traction with the ground.

You need to know that such devices are not suitable for plowing or loosening the soil, although minor soil cultivation occurs while driving across the field. The lugs on the walk-behind tractor are not suitable for loosening, since an independent support point is required here.

If the design of the structure should not be heavy, then it can be made more beautiful, with an aesthetic appearance. Such wheels can be used on light soils where loosening has been done previously. They have a small diameter, in the middle there are shaped knitting needles made of profiled steel sheet. The steel for the hooks should be no more than 8 millimeters, and the weight of the wheel should be no more than 8 kilograms.

How to make lugs with your own hands

Homemade lugs for walk-behind tractors can be made from machine disks. If a farmer has an old car that is a pity to throw into a landfill, with whole disks and rims, then they can be used to make lugs for a walk-behind tractor from car disks.

For this you will need:

• rims;
• welding machine (or grinder);
• square plates;
• drawing or diagram of lugs for the walk-behind tractor (will make the work very easy).

So, to make lugs for a walk-behind tractor from machine disks, you need to weld an axle shaft to them, onto which bearings are then put. Square plates need to be welded to the car rims.

After the completed procedures, you need to make plates-teeth that will bite into the soil, providing the necessary adhesion to it. The teeth can be made from solid metal sheets by cutting the desired size with a welding machine or by welding small plates together.

The teeth are welded to square plates on disks at a distance of 15-16 cm from each other. A deviation of 2-3 cm is acceptable, but for better operation of the unit you must strictly follow the instructions in the drawings and diagrams.

If the old car is not available, but there is a used gas cylinder, then there is another way to make lugs for the walk-behind tractor with your own hands.

For this you will need:

• gas cylinder (used);
• grinder or welding machine;
• metal plates for teeth;
• drawings or lug diagrams of a walk-behind tractor of the required brand.

First you need to cut two disks from the cylinder, which will serve as rims for the wheels of the walk-behind tractor. Then, as in the first option, weld the square plates and the teeth to them.

Another option is to weld lugs from steel plates. For this you will need:

• steel layers 4-5 mm thick;
• steel layers 6-8 mm thick;
• welding machine or grinder;
• drill or hammer drill.

A thinner sheet must be cut into two disks, in the center of which holes must be made for the hub. Cut sawtooth waves along the outer edges, with a wave depth of 100 mm. Triangles with cut corners must be cut out of a denser steel layer and welded perpendicular to the waves. The design is ready for use.

Of course, such lugs differ in appearance from their counterparts, but they also have many advantages.

How to make a home climbing wall with your own hands - detailed instructions and cost of materials

When we lived in the Thai province of Krabi, we were surrounded by stunningly beautiful rocks everywhere. Until now, this is one of the most beautiful places I have seen in my life. Naturally, rock climbers often climbed these boulders, and many rock climbing courses were also available. I remember two-year-old Mishutka watching them so carefully, and I even wrote on my blog that it’s great when a child sees something like this from childhood. A good example has never hurt anyone in life. When we returned home, I really wanted to make the child’s room bright, interesting and as educational as possible, so my memories and plans were embodied in the idea of ​​​​creating a children’s climbing wall at home. Mishutka has probably been using it with all her might for a year now, but I was just inspired to write instructions on my blog on how to make a home climbing wall with my own hands.

FROM THIS ARTICLE YOU WILL LEARN...

1. Why does a child need a climbing wall 2. Detailed instructions on how to make a climbing wall with your own hands 3. Cost of materials for a home climbing wall 4. Where to buy holds for a climbing wall and other components 5. Video on how to build a homemade children's climbing wall with your own hands

Why does a child need a climbing wall?

First of all, a climbing wall is necessary for the physical development of a child. Previously, in small rooms of apartments, wall bars were used for such purposes - they did not take up much space along the wall and allowed children to spend their energy somewhere. Using a climbing wall for such purposes is much more effective. When climbing, literally every muscle of the body is used - the legs and arms are involved, right down to the hands and fingers, the back is also well trained, which improves posture. Develops flexibility, strength, plasticity and coordination. In my opinion, there are so many advantages to making a climbing wall for a child. But besides all this, such training also perfectly develops concentration, tactical and strategic thinking, endurance, spatial and visual memory.

To be honest, at the moment when I decided to make a climbing wall at home myself, I didn’t really think about all these advantages. I just understood that it would really be beneficial for the child, that the child would like it, and it’s also so cool to have your own home climbing wall. Well, really?! So, I grabbed my tools and got to work.

Detailed instructions on how to make a climbing wall with your own hands

Yes, yes, I did it myself alone - a girl with arms growing from the wrong place) But even I managed it, so believe me, anyone can make a home climbing wall for a child. So let's get started . I'll tell you everything in as much detail and with photo, because
I specially filmed the entire process from the very beginning to the end. At the first stage, we, of course, acquire a base - plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm, because the mortise nuts that will be driven into it are designed specifically for this thickness. I took plywood 15 mm thick and height, in fact, up to the ceiling. Decide where you will have the front and where the back. On the back we will also need to screw wooden blocks. It is for them that the climbing wall will be attached to the wall. On the front part it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of 11.5-12 mm , also at equal intervals in height and width. This is what it looks like: the future climbing wall in the photo lies face up, a block is visible underneath it, the points at which we begin to drill are measured and marked with a tape measure.

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Please note that we are drilling from the front side, because splinters and other sawdust will appear on the back side. We don’t really need them sticking out of the climbing wall, so we “hide” them on the “wrong” side, but, nevertheless, it’s still worth going over them with sandpaper in order to remove very large splinters. Also, do not forget to place some other piece of wood under the plywood so as not to damage the floor, because... the drill suddenly fails when the hole is almost ready.

I really didn’t want to mess with a drill, but I’m quite good at using a screwdriver. It turns out that you can buy a drill for a screwdriver quite inexpensively and work with it calmly. This is absolutely wonderful! You just need to clarify when purchasing in a store that the diameter of the drill should be 11.5-12 mm (because we will be driving in a “bulldog” with an M10 diameter, the hole will need to be 1-2 mm wider) and you will be drilling wood. In this case, the shape of the drill is not the usual spiral, but rather pointed.

After drilling the holes, remove the drill bit, returning the screwdriver to its normal appearance. Then screw the bars on the “wrong” side along the edges of the entire climbing wall using regular self-tapping screws. And also one across the entire width in the middle. This is what it will look like if you turn the future climbing wall upside down.

In the photo, notice how evenly the holes go in rows. I drilled them every 25 cm vertically and horizontally. Some are probably wondering: why are there so many of them? And then, so that later you can change the position of the holds, screwing them here and there, making the “track” more difficult or easier in this way. Now we need to drive the so-called “bulldogs” into these holes, or, to be precise, mortise nuts. Here's what they look like.

Sometimes they are called “crabs” because if you look closely at the photo, you will see that they have metal “legs” with which these nuts “bite” into the wood, attaching securely. They must be driven in from the back. Don't get confused! And this is what should happen as a result.

Aaaand... To be honest, that's all. Of course, all that remains is to screw the climbing wall to the wall, but here everything is quite clear. True, here I couldn’t do without help, because I was unable to hold a heavy board and drill a wall at the same time)

I did not dare to screw such a heavy structure as a climbing wall onto ordinary screws, but bought bolts with washers and large dowels. This is how the fastening turns out, only at the “head” of the bolt I also inserted a round ring - a washer - for greater reliability)

The climbing wall is screwed onto the slats - that is, in rows on top, on the sides and in the center. In the end, I decided to paint it a bright and rich light green color. To be honest, I wanted to draw the whole jungle here, but somehow I never got around to it =) Although I like it that way! Mich is like Spider-Man)))

It’s a pity they took away my password from Instagram, where I posted a video of how cheerfully Mishutka crawls up and down the climbing wall. Now I can’t even show it clearly, so only photographs. But believe me, the child is delighted. And what a shock his friends are when they come to visit, not a single child has ever left us without working up a sweat on the climbing wall :))

Cost of materials for a home climbing wall

Now let’s take a closer look and calculate how much all this pleasure cost me.

• Plywood - 1114 rubles . I took the size 2440x1220, width 15mm. The lowest grade, smooth, but with knots. I strongly do not recommend screwing the hooks directly to the wall. First of all, it's unreliable. Secondly, the wall will deteriorate. Thirdly, you will not have the opportunity to change the “route” by changing the location of the holds.
• Bars (slats) - 350 rubles . I took 3 pieces of the same length as the plywood. I sawed one block into two parts (the top and middle), and placed two long ones at the edges.
• Children's hooks - 3600 rubles. One set of 6-piece hooks cost 1,200 rubles. I decided to take 3 sets at once, i.e. 18 pieces, so it turned out to be 3600 rubles. I can say that it is quite possible to get by with two sets, but I played it safe and took more. I want this to not mean in the form of all sorts of animals or letters, as parents often mean, these are large hooks that are convenient to grab onto. They look so simple, but they are ideal for children's hands.

• Bulldogs (mortise nuts) - 420 rubles . I took 5 sets, each of which contains 12 pieces, i.e. a total of 60 pcs. I didn’t know exactly how many holes I would have, but on average for a home climbing wall they usually take 50-80 pieces of M10 mortise nuts.
• Bolts for attaching hooks - 360 rubles. Price for 20 pieces. Since I had 18 hooks, I took a little more bolts - 20 pieces. A hook is “put on” these bolts and screwed with a regular hex wrench into special holes in the climbing wall, where the nut is already installed. In general, I didn’t really choose the bolts and nuts myself, the store just recommended M10 “bulldogs” and the bolts that fit them.
  TOTAL COST OF A HOME CLIPPING ROOM: RUB 5,844.

  Additionally, I bought the following things:

• Paint - 440 rubles. By tradition, I took Tikkurila, and in the store I tinted it in the color I liked in the catalog.
• Sports mat ~35 dollars. This is the Ikea Plufsig. Now it costs more on the website, but then the announcement had just appeared and it had not yet been sold in Russia. I was flying home via Hong Kong and specifically went to Ikea there to buy this mat that was perfect for us (even the colors were exactly what we needed!). It cost about 35 dollars, which at the old exchange rate was a little more than a thousand rubles.

  But since these are not at all mandatory attributes of a climbing wall, you can easily do without this costly article. However, I recommend painting the climbing wall (and it looks more aesthetically pleasing and there are fewer splinters) and laying some kind of mattress or sports mat under it to soften impact if a child falls from a climbing wall. You have to understand that the “toy” is still quite dangerous.

  Where did I buy components for the climbing wall?

  I got the hooks, mortise bulldog nuts and matching bolts from one place - the SkyGear store. To be honest, I really didn’t like their service - they took the money right away and disappeared for two weeks, but the goods were sent only after three weeks. My nerves were gone, I read reviews on the forums that they often do this. They received an order with money - and only after that they sent the manufacturer an application for the production of hooks. Naturally, you have to wait quite a long time.

  There is a disclaimer on the website that says order the colors that are in stock and you won’t have to wait. So, I called them and ordered what was supposedly in stock, but in fact there was nothing of the kind and I still had to wait for production. In the end, they still sent me everything that I ordered, and the goods, in principle, without any complaints, but there was still a residue, so I probably wouldn’t recommend this store, I was just sharing my experience. But the choice is yours, with difficulty, but they still fulfill their obligations.

  As an option, another store called Membranka, which seems to have good reviews, also sells everything for rock climbing and building a home climbing wall with your own hands. I don’t remember why I didn’t choose him, apparently Skygir had better conditions.

  I bought plywood, slats, drill, paint and screws from local hardware stores. I went to the base to get plywood, because... and it was cheaper and such large sizes of lumber are rarely delivered to stores.

  I bought screws and dowels, as well as a sports mat at Ikea. That's all, actually. And then a video about how to make a children's climbing wall at home.

  Video on how to build a homemade children's climbing wall with your own hands

  Actually, this is the same video that “taught” me how to make a climbing wall) It was thanks to him that I realized that making a home climbing wall with my own hands is very simple and even I can handle it myself. The whole process I described above is very clearly and quite briefly visible.

  If you still have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments. If you liked the instructions, I will be very grateful if you share it with your friends on social networks by clicking on the logo of any social network in the left panel.

  Make your beloved children happy and don’t be afraid to pick up instruments - everything will work out!

How to choose the right lugs for a walk-behind tractor?

The correct choice of lugs is the key to their successful operation and the functionality of the cultivator itself.

It should be based on several criteria:

• size - it is considered that the lugs on the walk-behind tractor are selected correctly if, after installation, they do not come into contact with the body part. It is important to take into account the power class of the cultivating device: for heavy series walk-behind tractors whose weight exceeds 200 kg, it is recommended to use wide lugs (d=0.7 m); medium and light cultivators function most reliably with smaller metal wheels - with a diameter of no more than 0.3-0.4 m;
• the nature of the lug surface and the type of soil (its moisture capacity, flowability, looseness) that is supposed to be processed. The outer side of the lugs can be made in the form of:

• spikes, which are evenly distributed plates of welded reinforcement of various heights. According to consumer reviews, lugs for walk-behind tractors with low spikes (about 2 cm) are difficult to use on wet, loose soils. Therefore, for black soils it is better to choose a large spike that will not clog and will not reduce the traction of the unit. On sandy areas in which moisture does not linger for a long time, this criterion can be slightly neglected and be guided only by your personal considerations and budget;
• arrow - their connecting part has an angular shape. Arrow-shaped lugs are the most popular equipment option, which is suitable for any type of soil and for any load;

• The brand and modification of a motor cultivator is the most reliable criterion, following which it is difficult to make a mistake. The lugs for a specific cultivator model are ideally adapted to its technical characteristics and are most often sold in pairs with hubs;
• price - depends on the manufacturer and versatility. When purchasing lugs for a light tillage machine, it is important to understand that you will have to fork out for auxiliary elements - weighting agents, without which the equipment will slip on heavy soils.

One of the ways to save on purchasing lugs and acquire faithful assistants for agricultural needs is to create metal wheels for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands.

Hook manufacturing technology

The technological process for the production of climbing holds is expressed in the casting of special mixtures into silicone molds. The mixture for hooks is quite expensive, so craftsmen are trying to make do with more affordable materials - wooden boards and beams, sand, epoxy resin and gypsum.

Design and production of a mold for casting a hook

For convenience, you should create a sketch of the shape of the hook, taking into account that it should be as simple as possible to manufacture, visually interesting, and also varied in terms of grips.

Since the composition is the most expensive component in the entire process of making holds, it is recommended to use universal forms for them, ensuring maximum ease and safety in operation.

The mold for casting the hook is created from any easy-to-process material with suitable strength characteristics. The ideal option is hardwood boards or plywood sheets.

Another option is to make a mold for the hooks using floral foam. An elastic floral sponge easily takes the desired shape, so it can easily be used to recreate the shape of a future hook. The resulting hook should be placed in a box, the size of which is about a centimeter larger than the dimensions of the model. Using 100% silicone, you need to fill the entire area between the hook and the walls of the box as much as possible, making sure there are no voids. The silicone should harden for at least a week, after which you should remove the hold model, obtaining a reusable mold for pouring.

Making a hook

Having at your disposal a mold for casting the hooks, you can begin to directly manufacture them. This part of making your own holds is considered the most difficult and responsible.

What is needed to make climbing holds?

An approximate algorithm for casting leads:

Grinding the toe

The hooks must have a surface identical to natural sandstone, providing good grip on the hands and not injuring the skin of the fingers. For these purposes, the hook should be covered with an additional abrasive layer of fine quartz sand. The finished hooks must be coated with a thin layer of glue, to which you can also add dye to obtain the desired surface color. Next, the entire hook is covered with sand; this procedure can be repeated several times.

To ensure durability of the top sand coating and rich color, the final layer is applied with slightly diluted tinted glue without sand. The rough surface of the grips ensures a reliable grip with the hands and comfortable placement of the legs, which makes it safe for climbers to train on artificially constructed climbing walls.

The finish of making a hold yourself is to sand the back side, which will be used to attach it to the climbing panel. In particular, it is necessary to remove all sharp edges and irregularities from the surface.

Installing holds on a climbing wall

The finished homemade hook can be safely attached to the wall - you need to carefully drill holes for fastening from the rear of the hook, if this was not done at the molding stage. When drilling, it is important to deepen the seat for the bolt head so that it does not protrude above the relief of the hook and install washers on the bolt. All that remains is to securely screw the hold onto the climbing wall panel and boldly begin to conquer new heights!

Useful videos on the topic:

Source

How to install snow chains on a car with your own hands and video operation

Experts recommend installing traction control equipment on all wheels, and not just on the drive ones. Incorrect installation can lead to damage to ABS sensors, brake system components and wheel arch liners, as well as side tire cuts.

1. With jacking.
2. On a stationary car.

The essence of the question is not only how to properly make snow chains on a car with your own hands using a video - you should think about installation work even before entering the problem area. This is the only way to enjoy the operation, save your time and avoid annoying mistakes.

There is no point in describing the first method using a jack - the procedure is elementary and will not cause any difficulties even for a novice driver. The only recommendation is to reduce the tire pressure to make the work easier.

Another question is when this device is not at hand. In this case, you can install chains on snow wheels with your own hands using the following technology:

• place the product in front of the wheel pair, avoiding twisting of the links;
• run over the product with wheels;
• apply the handbrake;
• put on the device so that the hook and carabiner are on the outside of the wheel;
• connect the hook and the last link of the longitudinal part to the inside of the wheel;
• put the carabiner coupling on the tension system from the outside and fix the knot;
• distribute the transverse elements along the entire perimeter of the tire and tighten it.

Important! To ensure uniform distribution of equipment components, drive 20-30 meters and then make final adjustments. This event will guarantee maximum adherence of the product to the rubber.

Do-it-yourself lug lugs for a car - Metals, equipment, instructions

Any experienced car enthusiast has had unpleasant moments when the driving wheels of the car began to slip in mud, ice or deep snow. It is often almost impossible to get out of such situations on your own - only with the help of another vehicle.

What are our colleagues doing? Some people buy tires with studs after such incidents, others simply park their car during natural disasters.

But there is another category of motorists who use homemade wheel chains and, I must say, quite successfully.

How to make snow chains with your own hands and video of work processes

Experienced motorists can give thousands of examples when mud, ice or deep snow prevent the successful completion of a trip. The power of the driving wheels is powerless in such situations - only a tug or a winch.

After such unpleasant moments, some owners refuse to travel in bad weather, others install studded tires .

However, there is another category of drivers who prefer to independently manufacture additional equipment to increase cross-country ability.

How to make your lugs heavier

As mentioned earlier, for uniform tillage of the soil with special attachments, appropriate weighting agents are used, which allows the mechanism used to remain at the required depth during movement. In this case, it is necessary to consider in more detail how to make the canopies used heavier, namely:

1. for purchased equipment, special auxiliary weights can be used, which are hung together;
2. if necessary, you can use hanging any heavy object for uniform plowing;
3. in this case, it is possible to independently create a fairly heavy device that will loosen the soil evenly;
4. Often, on manufactured versions, a corresponding center of gravity is specially provided, which is achieved by the presence of a certain design;
5. weighting can be an additional adjustable insert that is present on the attachment.

There are quite a lot of options for increasing the mass of this device; here you just need to rationally use such weighting so that during operation the device does not fall deep enough into the ground. Otherwise, damage to the coupling mechanism or deformation of the tillage mechanism itself may occur.

Important. When working with such equipment, weather conditions should be taken into account, as well as the humidity and softness of the soil surface being treated.

Features of devices

For craftsmen, making homemade devices allows them to get a high-quality transport option for little money. Creating an off-road vehicle from a walk-behind tractor is possible for the following reasons:

• such devices have an energy-rich transport unit that produces good traction performance;
• control levers for the power plant and transmission are located on the handles;
• The walk-behind tractor itself has little weight, which allows it to transport various luggage.

Thanks to these properties, homemade all-terrain vehicles are extremely in demand among hunters and fishermen.

All-terrain vehicle sample

The need to independently create these units arose due to the lack of factory serial analogues that could replace devices made on the basis of a walk-behind tractor.

What sizes should you take?

On the Internet you can find many drawings and diagrams for making lugs yourself. But what sizes correspond to which brand? Sometimes this is not indicated in the drawings.

So, the most common motorized cultivators are: Neva, Mole, Salyut, Oka, Bison, Centaur. Let's look at Neva walk-behind tractors.

The lug lugs for Neva walk-behind tractors are perfect for the Salyut and Favorit walk-behind cultivators. Dimensions for homemade tools for a walk-behind tractor: height - 34 cm, width - 11 cm. These dimensions are shown in the drawing, and all the small details that must be observed to work well with the ground are indicated.

Let's look at the main functions of lugs on the Neva walk-behind tractor:

1. Better quality plowing of land.
2. The installed tools make the walk-behind tractor heavier and easier to use, which improves soil work and allows you to work with heavy mounted structures.
3. This product helps you climb uphill with a full trailer in a fairly short time.
4. The teeth catch small and large plant roots, tearing them out.

Optimal sizes

It's no secret that heavy equipment cultivates the land better than light equipment. This is evidenced by the fact that people began to become interested in the question of how to make lugs for a car with their own hands. Such equipment can even handle hard soil, which a light tractor cannot handle very effectively. Such units require large lugs. To generalize, the design parameters will depend on the size of the walk-behind tractor.

Thus, we can distinguish the following popular walk-behind tractors :

• "Neva". Walk-behind tractors that adapt to any conditions are common. But in the case when the farm already has a Neva tractor, which due to its characteristics is not considered universal, you can make soil cutters yourself. It is necessary to take into account that the diameter of the device should not be more than 36 centimeters, and the width should not be more than 11.
• MTZ. Even though such units are Belarusian, the price for them is considerable due to the highest quality. You can focus on a price of 5,000 rubles or more. The bottom line is that the wheels of these walk-behind tractor models are quite large. To make high-quality lugs, a lot of labor is required. It is important that the dimensions are selected correctly and that the triangular plates that engage the ground are carefully welded to the main lug wheel.
• "Firework". This device is assembled according to the Neva scheme.
• "Centaur". The wheels in such a device are somewhat similar to the Neva. But the first car has 11 centimeters longer wheels. If a lug is made for the Centaur, its length should be 450 millimeters and width 110. It can also fit other models of walk-behind tractors, including those from other manufacturers.

It will also be useful to make an extension for the lugs. They are designed to increase the angle of rotation of the structure and the width of the potassium and counterweight. To do this, you need to attach a sleeve with a slot to the hub. An additional axle is inserted into such a sleeve, which is secured with a bolt. Finally, you need to secure the soil cutter wheel to the axle.

Thus, there are many options for making soil cutters with your own hands without much labor and emptying your pocket on expensive factory models.

What third-party wheels are suitable for the Neva walk-behind tractor?

Wheels from Muscovites and Lada are best suited for installation on the Neva walk-behind tractor. There is no need to change anything in them, since their diameter is ideal for installation on a walk-behind tractor. They only need to be slightly modernized by welding.

Zhiguli wheels on a Neva walk-behind tractor

Factory options will cost much more.

The main task when modernizing Zhiguli wheels is to make them heavier, since in the factory configuration they are very light.

Listed below are the main stages of manufacturing wheels for a walk-behind tractor from car tires:

• An axle shaft is installed inside the wheels;
• To make it easier to change wheels, square plates are installed on the axle and holes are made in them. And then the wheels from Zhiguei are attached to these plates;
• A cap is placed on the outside to protect against external factors;
• The tubes should be removed, and only the tires should be left (to improve the quality of traction, winter tires should be used).

Using tires from other cars is problematic because they have a larger diameter or width, so they need to be additionally adjusted using an axle extension or some other method, and this is not always possible for everyone.

To improve the lug-holding properties, some people additionally cover the wheels with a chain. When driving, the chain digs into the ground and provides additional traction. The effect of it is especially noticeable when driving after rain or snow.

The video demonstrates how to install Zhiguli wheels on a Neva walk-behind tractor:

Required tools and equipment

Before carrying out the relevant work, you must first make sure that you have the appropriate materials and tools. You can watch the process of making snow chains on video, but the disadvantage of videos is the lack of information about the necessary equipment.

To make a simple “Ladder” type chain, you will need the following materials:

1. Steel chain. The thickness of the reinforcement must be at least 5 mm.
2. Carabiners with a coupling and thread. Products with latches are not suitable for making lugs.
3. Chain tension device.
4. Bolts, nuts and washers.
5. Hooks.

For the manufacture of snow chains, carabiners with a coupling and thread are required

The main material is a chain, the length of which for two middle wheels with a diameter of R15 must be at least 15 meters. Buying a chain separately and making a lug from it yourself is much cheaper than purchasing a finished product.

To make lugs, you will also need a set of tools:

• Vise;
• Grinder with a circle for metal;
• Roulette;
• Hammer;
• Wrenches for tightening bolts and nuts.

As you can see, the supply of materials and tools is insignificant, so after preparation, you can begin making snow chains.

What is needed to make homemade car snow chains for wheels?

The inability to purchase factory-made devices that increase cross-country ability, as well as their high price, push car enthusiasts to solve the problem on their own. It should be noted that this is a completely reasonable choice - the necessary components can be found in any hardware store, and every self-respecting driver has a minimum set of tools.

It should be said that information on how to make snow chains with your own hands and videos include a list of design elements. Let's focus on the simplest model, made according to the “ladder” scheme. To implement it you will need:

• chain with a cross section of at least 5 mm made of steel;
• carabiners with a threaded coupling;
• tension mechanism;
• washers, bolts and nuts;
• hooks, carbines.

On average, about 15 meters of chain ; more accurate figures will be known only after specific measurements. It is recommended to use stainless metal hardware as chains. The preparatory process ends with the collection of tools:

general information

• By design, these devices are wheels with spikes. Today there are many different device transformations, and you should choose them wisely. To a large extent, the quality of work is determined by the weight of the unit. The most functional awnings can only be hung on heavy walk-behind tractors or medium-weight units. If the unit is of high quality and does not give the desired result, you need to additionally purchase wheels with lugs for it.
• Standard devices are metal wheels with spikes that dig into the ground and engage the walk-behind tractor with it. To make devices yourself, you will need to know their structure, which drawings and diagrams will greatly help with. You will need to determine the diameter of the canopy, select the material of manufacture, and, of course, select the necessary tools. The first thing you need is a welding machine and an angle grinder.
• First of all, we decide on the size of the devices. Their height and width depend on the tasks for which the hooks are mounted on the walk-behind tractor. You also need to take into account the requirements for the weight of the devices, because the wheels are put on with them to improve the traction of the walk-behind tractor with the ground. This requires wheels of considerable weight, which a walk-behind tractor may lack. The minimum weight of wheels is 20 kg. If necessary, weights are hung on the soil hooks. This is necessary to achieve better results, or is used when the weight does not reach the norm.

Homemade snow chains with quick installation

Winter is approaching, not to mention that there are already quite a lot of puddles and mud outside the city. To overcome such obstacles, you need a good SUV, or you can make snow chains for your car and carry them with you.

The main problem with such devices is that they are difficult to quickly install on a car, especially in winter, when you need to work in snow and cold. But having passed the problem area, the chains must also be removed, since driving on them for a long time is harmful to the tires, and driving on the highway is prohibited.

One author came up with the idea of ​​attaching snow chains using rubber bands with hooks. Now you don't need wrenches or anything to install chains. For structural reliability, it is best to use springs instead of rubber.

Materials and tools for homemade work:

Materials: - steel chain (length and thickness will depend on the diameter of the wheels); - elastic bands with hooks or steel springs for fixing chains; - a pair of carabiners for quickly connecting chain links.

Snow chain manufacturing process:

Step one. We measure the circumference of the tire. First of all, you will need to make two rings from the chain; their diameter should be such that they lie approximately half the width of the tire, or further to the center. The author connects the rings using threaded carabiners.

These rings are needed to attach the transverse elements that engage the road.

Well, then you need to cut the required number of chains of the required length. The length should be such that the chains on the wheel are well tensioned, otherwise they will fly off. Here they are adjusted depending on the width of the tire and the location of the side rings.

Step three. Final assembly Now all the parts are connected to each other, forming solid tracks. Everything is connected using good strong carabiners. Well, after this, the tracks need to be installed on the wheel, and in order to tension the chains, you will need metal springs or, in extreme cases, rubber. For ease of fastening, the author installed hooks at the ends of the rubber strips.

Wheel chains: step-by-step DIY technology

Wheel chains: in winter off-road conditions, these devices have no price.

When it comes to their cost in the literal sense, then when you see the same Pewag kits, the conclusion suggests itself - this pleasure is not cheap. Looking for an alternative, Autostadt editors.

su suggests choosing a homemade option: it will turn out no worse, but cheaper. Where to start, what to buy, and how to assemble lugs with your own hands with an eye to reliability?

Project of an anti-skid device for a car

We were inspired by last year's research to get creative. Then we chose what was better to buy: chains or anti-slip bracelets. The verdict was that there is nothing to do with anti-slip belts on serious off-road conditions.

In addition, the cuffs damage alloy wheels, which is critical for many owners. But the real help in making something with your own hands was the price list for the Konig chain. Last year they demanded about 9,000 rubles for the ZIP Ultra model.

For a moment, for the same money a ready-made set of winter tires with above-average quality for the now popular 15-inch is sold. Agree, this is impressive.

Choosing a chain weaving pattern

Before purchasing and making anything, you need to have a project in hand: this principle underlies any serious invention and the tire chain is no exception. When designing wheel attachments that increase your vehicle's ability to maneuver in snow, it is important to choose a weaving pattern that suits your needs.

Link size

Not just a drawing. The caliber of chain links also determines a number of important characteristics, including cross-country ability and durability. This way, a thin chain won’t last long, but a larger option may not fit into the wheel arch. Strictly speaking, in this matter you should not focus on just one parameter:

• As the caliber increases, traction capabilities in snow and mud improve, the service life of the anti-slip product increases, but rubber wear occurs.
• Small-link snow chains cling to ice well, have a moderate appetite for rubber, but wear out quickly.

This is abstract reasoning. For each class of car, “working” ranges of link sizes have long been determined and, admittedly, they grow with increasing vehicle weight:

1. Passenger cars and crossovers: 3.5-6 mm. Our colleagues from Autocomfort have experimentally determined that it is better to equip a two-ton SUV with 6 mm chains. It’s even better to choose an asymmetrical shape of 6x8 mm - then the machine demonstrates everything that it is capable of. As for the smaller size, a 5 mm chain will be too small for those over 2,000 kg.
2. Trucks and special equipment: 6-19 mm.

Accessories

When you see branded kits, it becomes clear that the anti-skid device does not consist of one chain at all. The design also provides:

• Two connecting lines linking the chain sections at the back and front of the tire.
• A tightening device that tightly fixes the chain on the wheel (lock).
• Fasteners that fasten metal sections together directly on the tread (connecting rings).

What exactly can serve as one or another component is determined by the budget and range of equipment available. Here are examples for each of the three groups of fittings:

• The best option for connecting lengths of chain on the sides is to use a chain of the same gauge. In this situation, maximum strength and durability are guaranteed. The only thing that discourages this decision is the high cost. This is why the second version appeared - to use a cable for these purposes. A linear meter of cable rope is noticeably cheaper, but it can fray and unravel, and is therefore less reliable.
• The signature chain tie is also made from chain. It is difficult to implement such a solution in everyday life, so turnbuckles and peculiar locks, known from anti-slip devices “Made in the USSR,” have taken root on homemade products. The widespread use of lanyards is due to their availability in retail sales and the absence of the need to make anything with your own hands. At the same time, such a fastening scheme has poor dirt protection. This led to the belief that the turnbuckle was difficult to loosen after several trips. The advantage of the Soviet lock design is reliability and trouble-free operation. However, the lock has only one drawback: it is difficult to manufacture (additional equipment is required).

• The easiest way to connect straight and diamond-shaped sections in the tread area (applies to “honeycomb” and “diamond” weaving patterns) is to use special rings. If it is difficult to get them, then you can get by with a well-known technique: cut the link with a grinder, engage it and weld it with a welding machine.

The listed accessories are the backbone of the anti-slip device. Depending on the manufacturing technology, a number of mandatory parts are selected:

• Cable circuit for linking the chain on the sides of the tire. Additionally, you will need thimbles, shackles and clamps to secure the cable from unraveling.
• Chain linkage on the sides of the wheel. What is needed are plates connecting sections of the chain along the perimeter of the front and rear walls of the tire + removable brackets used on the section of fastening the lock/turnbuckle.

How to make snow chains for the wheels of a passenger car and crossover: 3 schemes

The draft version of the manual included a step-by-step description of the manufacture of three types of chains: ladder, honeycomb and diamond. The material turned out to be quite voluminous and we were struck by the idea of ​​presenting the information in a compiled form.

Considering that a number of operations in the manufacture of each of the three patterns are the same, you can roll out detailed instructions for one of the weaving technologies, and only make notes on the rest.

They decided to take a “rhombus” as the basis, and describe the manufacturing process of the “ladder” and “honeycomb” on the basis of the “diamond”.

DIY "Rhombus"

The difficulty of making a homemade chain is that a number of simple things are unknown. For example, it is not clear how long each of the components of the future product should be; how long to make the same cable or chain located on the sides of the wheel... We suggest that all experiments be carried out in relation to a specific car. Then the percentage of errors is lower and the result is obvious.

Our colleague Alexander M. happily agreed to share the developments that he implemented in his Jeep Grand Cherokee. The car is equipped with 245/75 R16 tires, the pattern of the future chain is “diamond”, the connection of the sections is cable. We remove one of the wheels and begin:

• We lay out the chain on one side of the tire. This will help to roughly estimate the number of links included in each of the elements of the diamond-shaped pattern. For ease of marking, use rope and electrical tape. You can use a rope to tie the product along the contour of the side part, and with insulation you can wrap the outer links to be connected with a cable on the sides and rings in the middle.

• We make the mirror part of the resulting circuit. The snow chain conventionally consists of two parts: front and rear or left and right. In point No. 1 we designed the front part. To obtain the back one, it is necessary to mirror the already obtained section or, more simply, measure the same segment of the chain, marking the boundary connection points on it.

• We connect the resulting two halves together. The easiest way to do this is with jump rings. If these are not available, then you can use one of the chain links by disconnecting it. The reverse fixation of the link must be permanent, so welding is indispensable.
• Place the chain on the wheel.

• Measure the required length of the cables located on the sides of the tire. To calculate the exact footage, use a rope to tie the chain front and back.
• Place the turnbuckle eyelet on the front cable.
• Process the ends of both cables by putting thimbles on them and clamping them tightly with clamps.

• Try on the resulting structure again, tying the junction of the ends of the cables with a rope and using a lanyard.
• Replace the rope with a shuckle if the lanyard provides a secure hold, and the homemade version is ready for combat use.

Important! The lanyard must be tied diagonally.

Homemade "honeycomb"

Diamond shapes alternating with straight sections are made by analogy with a diamond-shaped snow chain. First, try on the outer part, which consists of half-diamonds and straight sections on the tire tread.

If connecting rings are not used, the outer pattern will consist of a continuous piece of chain.

The mirror part here is not solid - it includes small sections that, together with the upper semi-finished product, form a diamond-shaped structure.

The separation point is still located at the peripheral vertices of the diamond. If you want to use chain ties instead of cable ties, you need to stock up on 10 brackets, in three different configurations. In a budget option, the brackets can be replaced with bolts with large washers.

And if you are pursuing the goal of creating an indestructible design based on Soviet snow chains, then replace the lanyard with a full-fledged square lock. From the photo it is clear that in design terms this solution is simple: two disks (aluminum can be used) are riveted together.

On the same axes there are whiskers (only steel ones).

"Ladder" at home

We left the most traction performance, as they say, for a snack. For two reasons. The ladder is the easiest option for self-production and at the same time the least popular off-road weaving scheme according to known prerequisites.

During manufacturing, it is important to follow a number of rules. For example, it is customary to connect transverse sections here not with a cable, but with a chain.

The fact is that the cable tie greatly complicates the installation, to the point that the wheel must be removed, and even lowered, otherwise there is no other way. Otherwise, everything is extremely simple.

It is enough to cut 13-15 equal pieces of chain, fasten them with a chain, make a lock or use a lanyard (again, only in the diagonal direction), and the device is ready for use.

Track tracks

Tracks are the main part of any track. Fortunately, you don't have to buy them in specialty stores. They are quite easy to make yourself from various materials. The main thing that needs to be taken into account is the level of load that is planned to be placed on the walk-behind tractor. Tracks can be made from:

• plastic pipes;
• wooden blocks;
• metal tracks.

To make tracks from plastic pipes, you will need water pipe No. 40. It is cut into pieces the length of which is equal to the width of the track. After this, each such segment is cut lengthwise into two halves. A circular saw with a wood cutting disc will help with this.

When all the tracks are ready, they can be attached to the main structure. For this, furniture bolts No. 6 and large hemispherical heads are used. With these bolts, each segment is attached to the structure itself.

Thus, we get an excellent relief track for a walk-behind tractor, allowing it to pass through difficult places even in winter.

A caterpillar made of wooden blocks is suitable for light loads, since the structural strength is not so great. To make a track from this material, you will need birch blocks of the same size and length equal to the width of the tracks.

It is not surprising that the most common and reliable are metal tracks for tracks, because their level of strength is quite high. Most often, metal pipes or a profile are used, which is cut into pieces of suitable length and attached to the track in the same way as was done in previous methods.

The main disadvantage of this design is the large mass and difficulty of repair. If one of the tracks bends during operation, you will have to spend a lot of effort to replace it.

It is recommended to make tracks from iron only in cases where the walk-behind tractor operates under heavy loads. In other cases, it is better to resort to other methods.

It is not so difficult to make a caterpillar for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, although it takes quite a lot of time. It is important to treat the process with the utmost care and perform all calculations correctly. Also, it is necessary to assess the degree of load with which the walk-behind tractor operates and select the most suitable materials for the product.

Where to buy holds?

6. And to start: create the shape of the hook

7. And in the end the most interesting thing - professionals