Harley-Davidson CVO Breakout
The new product of the legendary American brand, more than anyone else guilty of romanticizing the image of a motorcyclist on a sparkling chrome cruiser, blows away both the teapot and the experienced biker.
The wonderfully beautiful chopper pleases with its restrained design and slender lines. And whoever you are - a manager dressed in a business suit or a bearded fan of Russian rock - you will look equally cool at Breakout. Surprisingly, this Harley is perfect for a beginner, although physically developed, rider who wants to buy a motorcycle for a long time. In terms of comfort and handling, the 322 kg bike will give a head start to its lighter 900 cc rivals. Of course, a student shouldn’t joke with a 1690 cm3 engine, but if you’re willing to pay as much as €21,214, it means you’re already old enough and won’t be a fool behind the wheel. This motorcycle will allow you to joke with yourself only after three seasons, when its potential will be fully revealed to you.
In the meantime, start getting to know Breakout. Try it in an empty parking lot and you’ll immediately understand that the motorcycle is very friendly: it doesn’t try to jump out from under you when you open the gas too harshly, and it doesn’t kick up its rear when you ineptly apply front braking. So feel free to go to the city, where motorists will honk at you in admiration, and women of all ages and social status will throw unambiguous glances in your direction, and maybe even their bras. You'll get used to driving quickly, unless, of course, you immediately start cranking up the engine and finish the season at Sklif.
The powerful V-Twin is wonderful - it handles spectacular launches, overtaking at high speeds and idling equally well. The only drawback is the quietly farting exhaust, which can be cured by installing a direct-flow muffler.
How to weld a car frame or.
This article will not be of interest to owners of passenger cars, it’s a completely different story, but owners of trucks, dump trucks, and truck cranes will find this quite useful. Everyone knows that it is supposedly impossible to weld a frame. But if these “talkative experts” had seen how much we had digested in our time, they would have changed their minds or mumbled something incomprehensible. Although in some ways they may be right, because the frame is a non-welded structure and if it breaks they say that it needs to be replaced. But who would agree to lose profit and time, because there are no spare frames lying around on the road and hardly anyone has any in stock.
In my practice, this most often happened with KrAZ trucks and it was not necessary that they were old. It’s just that in the days of self-financing and “ton-kilometers” everyone wanted to earn money, and they had to build, materials were required, and the roads were mostly winter roads. Not everyone knows what it is. So the painters put containers in the back of the car to carry diesel fuel, and they also carried road slabs, and the especially zealous ones took a double load and were with us after the flight. the frame is cracked. Most often, frames broke in the area of the second pair of wheels, approximately the center of the car; this is the weakest point for fracture. Of course, the frames of other cars also broke, but less often. Equally, only the Kirov trawls, mainly the ganders, broke. Well, they've already broken it, now we need to repair it.
First, you need to free up as much space as possible where the welding will take place. Roll out the wheel, if necessary, remove all tubes and anything that may interfere with a full repair. If the frame has fallen apart, then it’s more difficult, because you need to put everything back in place, and so that the car doesn’t go sideways later
These are all precautions and necessary. Now, actually, preparation for welding
First you need to weld the broken area itself. To do this, use a cutter, electrode or grinder, in general, in any available way, to remove a chamfer from the crack, first, if possible, to do this from the inside of the frame. We will immediately weld this part and then grind the chamfer from the outside, preferably to solid metal. Now let's melt the chamfer from the outside. If the seam turns out to be high, then it needs to be ground flush with the base metal, a little later you will find out why. Some welders called it “brew the root”, but this is not the root, and you can learn what the root of the weld is from the early articles of our channel “Welding is our everything”
No matter how well you brew it, it will not be enough; you need to strengthen the broken place. To do this, we cut out a double or, as it is often called, a patch. The width of the patch is the width of the frame, and the length is the same as the width, but in each direction from the crack. We clean the edges from burrs and apply them to the frame. This is exactly why the seam needed to be ground off, the patch should fit tightly. If there is a large gap, you will of course weld it, but because of this the load will pass on the broken part of the frame and it may burst again along with the patch. We have been convinced of this several times.
That's why the patches have this shape. And in no case should longitudinal seams begin and end at the same level. If suddenly you don’t have the time or tools for a good repair, you broke down in foreign lands and you quickly need to go home, then you can take a rectangular patch, but cook it, retreating 20-30 mm on one side from the edge, and the same amount on the other side, but from the other side. Then the beginning and end of your seams will not coincide and you will successfully get home, where you will make a high-quality repair. Cook only along, across - no.
Parallelepiped patches can be placed on the inside of the frame, where the edges will already be offset and we will also weld longitudinal seams. Place ovals and diamonds on the outside and cook completely. If you find metal that is the same as the frame, then take the same thickness, but most likely the metal you have is the most common and therefore they use thicker metal for the patches, because it is weaker than the main one, so we equalize it using the thickness. We usually took 8-10 mm. There is no need to take very thick metal, this will put an extra load on the frame itself!
So the diamond was installed, grabbed, and the most important thing left was to brew it. Here, as always, it begins: what is better, electrodes or semi-automatic? And what electrodes? etc
It’s unlikely that anyone will have the brains to take a stainless steel patch, it’s stupid and unnecessary, so you need to take electrodes that are designed for carbon or alloy structural steels, preferably with good ductility. For example, the 55th SSSI is suitable. We cooked all this with ordinary OZS-4 and everything was fine, with rare exceptions. You can weld it with a semi-automatic machine, but it’s better to weld it with what you know best. The main thing is to brew it well and not to burn the frame itself, otherwise it will burst at the point of the burn.
Top 10 best choppers
The rating was compiled by determining the best choppers based on the factors of functionality, cost, and popularity.
Vagabond chopper
The remarkable design and streamlined shape of the Vagabond made it popular among motorcyclists, which was also facilitated by the price of 6.5 thousand dollars, which buyers of average solvency can afford.
Harley Davidson V Rod Muscle
Harley Davidson motorcycles are magnificent creations, all stylish, durable, prestigious. The Model V Rod Muscle with a 1250cc engine and 5-speed gearbox is a shining example of this brand. With a body made of steel and aluminum, it is easy to control and very maneuverable when turning. The cost of 1.5 million rubles is justified by the quality of the bike.
Devil's advocate chopper
Devil's advocate is not very popular, but it is very practical, stylish, cheap, and a good option for the budget-conscious buyer. A 6-speed gearbox and wide tires are the design features of the bike.
Anti-Venom
The chopper has an old-fashioned design that is attractive with its stylishness. It features an old assembly method, wheel rims, and a gas tank. Excellent work by Paul Teutul, Jr.
Yamaha Raider S
A motorcycle that attracts anyone with its beautiful 1854 cc engine, which instantly accelerates in any gear. A sophisticated chassis and monoshock are combined with a large fork offset and a 21-inch thin front wheel. The large saddle and soft suspension make the ride comfortable, and the brakes are effective. The bike weighs about 700 pounds and costs approximately $18,000.
Yamaha Stryker
Another Yamaha chopper ranks fifth in the ranking of the best in its class. Mechanics and electronics work amazingly well, the 1304 cc engine allows you to reach high speeds, and the bike has a cool design.
Honda's mechanics have created a superbly designed bike, equipped with electronics, fast and light.
Yamaha Roadster BMS
A very expensive model - half a million dollars, but worth all the money spent on it. The bike's creator, Sam Nehme, plated it in gold, creating a luxurious style.
Honda Fury ABS
Brilliant polishing and LED headlights immediately attract attention to the Honda chopper. A comfortable seat, a 5-speed gearbox, and a 1312 cc engine put this model in second place in terms of speed, power and comfort.
Harley's Dyna Wide Glide
The undisputed leader among choppers is the Dyna Wide Glide from Harley, recognized as the best model of the century. The most powerful engine, excellent steering wheel, 6-speed gearbox develop simply enormous speed, and the bike is very obedient when cornering.
Which chopper to choose: expensive or economical, exclusive or traditional, more powerful or very simple and reliable - it’s up to you to decide. What would you prefer: the latest top model or a popular, but possibly used product? The main thing is that your bike serves you well, is a reliable friend, an assistant in different life situations.
The most famous chopper manufacturers
The most popular chopper is, of course, the legendary Harley Davidson. Owning an American chopper is every biker's dream. It is worth noting that Harley motorcycles have been popular for several decades, and have long become a household name for a good bike. If we talk about other manufacturers, then Honda choppers are quite good, especially Honda, VT 750 DC Black Spirit, VT 1300 CXA Fury and other motorcycles in this line.
Recently, mini choppers have begun to appear. This is the same chopper, but in miniature. Of course, the technical parameters of a mini chopper will be slightly behind those of its larger brother, but you don’t need to have a license to ride such a miracle.
Yamaha XVS950A Midnight Star
This motorcycle is noticeably inferior to the first two devices in terms of appearance, but as a first cruiser it is one hundred percent suitable, which becomes clear from the moment of landing. Japanese engineers relied on convenience and installed a simple and very comfortable seat on the bike, which you won’t swear even after 300 kilometers of driving along the highway, and the comfortable spread of the steering handles allows you to easily dive through city traffic jams without knocking over the mirrors of passing cars.
The modern almost liter V-twin is seriously stifled by exhaust emissions neutralization systems, but this is only to your advantage. The motorcycle does not pull away from a standstill, and the engine’s potential is revealed only at medium speeds. After 60 km/h, Midnight Star accelerates perfectly, making it possible for safe overtaking on the highway and quite dynamic driving in the city, but it “deflates” only after 140 km/h. But you didn’t intend to accelerate to such speeds, did you? At the same time, the engine sounds quite decent, and replacing the standard exhaust will add noble low overtones to it.
It’s funny that the aura of Harley-Davidson legend still haunts Yamaha, and the Japanese design the engines for their cruisers according to the classic “Harley” design, that is, so that the V-twin beats and vibrates in the motorcycle frame, like a real heart .
And this is in an era when most manufacturers are racking their brains on how to make a perfectly balanced motor that is as invisible as possible to the rider! You will understand what these vibrations give you when you put the Midnight Star on the step to warm up: the motorcycle simply “crawls” to the side, which will definitely become a reason for jokes among your friends.
Learning to corner on the Midnight Star is a pleasure: the bike happily rolls on its side until the pegs hit the asphalt, without falling over or trying to “break.” The suspension works at 200%: a good kick can only be obtained from very serious potholes, and the Midnight Star eats up ordinary bumps without problems.
The only thing is to be more careful with braking: the 278-kilogram motorcycle is equipped with some very weak brakes, as if they were carried over to the Midnight Star from a motocross bike. This can be treated by replacing the standard calipers with more serious ones - plus 10,000 to the original 467,000 rubles.
Advantages
In Russia they have been gaining popularity in recent years.
Additional advantages include the following:
- exquisite appearance;
- unique style;
- high comfort;
- wide tires, allowing you not to feel the unevenness of the surface;
- the possibility of electrification and turning it into a bicycle moto;
- available tuning;
- an unforgettable driving experience.
On the website https://megavel.ru/category/velosipedy-choppery/ you can get acquainted with the models and the price, which cannot be called low. How to be? You can do it yourself, and for reasonable money.
DIY chopper bike
Like everything original, the price of a chopper bike is quite high. But a DIY chopper-style bike will cost much less.
In order to turn an ordinary bicycle into a bike chopper, you need to change the frame design and the front fork. Work can begin if you have:
- An ordinary bicycle that they decided to improve;
- Welding machine;
- Steel pipes for fork and frame;
- Sheet steel with a thickness of 1.2 mm to 1.5 mm;
- Long bicycle chain, it can be obtained by connecting two for a regular bicycle;
- Bulgarian;
- Dropouts;
- Fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers).
It is advisable to follow the sequence of work stages. Briefly they can be stated as follows:
- Remove the steering wheel and determine the length of the fork.
- To make a fork, two steel pipes of the required length are processed with a grinding attachment.
- Install a pair of dropouts on two pipes for subsequent mounting of the wheel.
- Make the top of the fork to attach other elements of the bike to. To do this, you need to assemble a bolt, nut and washer, attach the nut to the washer, welding each edge. Then we weld the washer to the fork tube, after placing the washer with the nut down on the upper hole of the fork tube. You need to do the same with the second fork tube.
- Attach the dropouts to the wheels. On the cardboard template, carefully mark two holes for the fork pipes and one for the stem and crown.
- Using a cardboard template, make a base plate from sheet steel, weld it to the crown and stem and two fork tubes.
Make a top plate from a steel sheet, mark the centers of the two fork pipes and the stem bolt, drill holes with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt. Secure the top plate with bolts. In order to extend the frame, you need to cut it and insert pieces of pipe. Where to cut and how much to extend is up to the bike owner to decide. In order for the weld to be of high quality, the pipe for the inserts must be taken with a slightly smaller or slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the pipes of the donor bicycle frame. This is done so that the pipes fit into each other. Only a qualified, experienced welder can weld pipes of the same diameter and ensure a correct, strong seam. Some actions may be added here if the frame is not simply lengthened, but its design is changed. The frame is strengthened by adding another pipe between the carriage and the upper frame pipes. The saddle is made of boards, plywood, foam, leather. Its appearance and design are a figment of the imagination of every cyclist. The requirements for a saddle are strength and comfort for the owner. The handlebar is installed after first deciding whether to install the old one, assemble your own design, or move it from another bicycle. Before installing brakes, you need to evaluate your preferences and financial capabilities. There are plenty of options to choose from. The main thing is that they must ensure safe driving. Finally assemble the unit and take a test ride. Paint the bike.
A chopper bicycle is designed for riding on asphalt and well-packed dirt roads and provides comfortable movement. Thanks to the wide wheels, it is stable and absorbs uneven roads well. Even without an electric drive, it reaches higher speeds than a regular bicycle. A bicycle that looks like a motorcycle is more suitable for lovers of the unusual. Interesting for those who like to improve the world around them.
Required materials and tools
So, in order to make a chopper with your own hands, you need:
- welding machine, type Clarke 105EN;
- donor bike;
- durable steel pipes for making forks and extending the frame. The diameters of the pipes for the frame are selected so that two pipes of different diameters can be welded (this is simpler and more reliable than welded pipes of the same diameter),
- sheet steel 1.4 mm thick for hopper plates;
- 2 new chains that will be required for the enlarged frame. They need to be connected together;
- pipe bending machine. It is needed so as not to cut the elongated pipes at an angle, but to bend them, significantly changing the angles of the frame.
When you have prepared the materials and tools, you can start making a bicycle with your own hands, turning an ordinary model into a chopper.
Optimal models for beginners
Yamaha
Virago
The chopper with a 400 cc air-cooled V-twin engine, cardan and 2 carburetors is very simple in design and easy to control due to its low weight. This is also facilitated by a low center of gravity, a relatively narrow rear wheel, and a short wheelbase. A reserve tank under the saddle helps lower the center of gravity.
XVS 400 Drag Star
Large 400cc chopper, recommended for tall motorcyclists. Classic components: V-twin, cardan drive, air cooling, 2 carburetors. There is a classic version and a custom one.
Suzuki
Savage
Single-cylinder, air-cooled, the bike is flexible and light in weight. The 400 cc model is chain driven, the 600 cc model is belt driven.
VS400 Intruder
Another popular model from the Japanese manufacturer Suzuki. The model combines good technical characteristics with an inexpensive price. Cardan drive, carburetor power, liquid-cooled M-twin - these are the components of this high-spirited, dynamic bike. A distinctive feature is the high center of gravity for this species.
Honda
Steed
The legendary motorcycle from Honda is phenomenally reliable combined with an affordable price. Engine 2-cylinder, liquid cooling, chain drive. The 400cc version has a 5-speed gearbox, while the 600cc version has a 4-speed gearbox. The advantages of the bike are excellent handling and light weight.
Rebel CMX 250
Lightweight, modest-sized chopper, medium power, but highly reliable. A great option for a female driver.
Shadow 400
In terms of technical characteristics, the motorcycle is close to the Steed model. Equipped with liquid cooling engine, carburetor system, chain. A highly reliable option for beginners and more.
Kawasaki
VN 400 Vulcan
A Japanese 400cc motorcycle will be a good friend for a novice biker. A special feature is its large size, suitable for tall owners.
ZL 400 Eliminator
A hybrid of a sportbike and a chopper with an in-line 4-cylinder engine, liquid cooling, and chain drive. 50 l. With. makes the powerful Eliminator a leader in the 400cc class. To drive such a bike, it is better to have experience.
Tuning the Ural motorcycle in the photo
How to build a chopper?
This question was probably asked by everyone who rolled out his grandfather’s Ural from the garage or bought a used Japanese one. After all, a chopper is a one-piece motorcycle, not mass-produced, but many people want to become the owner of such a bike. Making a chopper is a complex and never quick process, and the donor can, in principle, be anything, from the aforementioned Soviet Ural to a sportbike, if desired.
Of course, the canonical chopper is equipped with a V-shaped twin, and is most often made from a serial cruiser (we will keep silent about the British with their in-line twins on Triumphs; this is a topic for a separate article). What is needed so that the result of our work can be proudly called “chopper”?
Let's start with landing. No “legs under you”, legs should be extended forward! If the design does not initially provide for this, then we make “leg extensions”, also known as forward control, for which you will have to move the driver’s footrests, the gearbox foot and the rear brake pedal. You can either come up with something of your own or purchase a ready-made kit somewhere in an American online store. But we are not looking for easy ways, right?
Next comes the fork. It must be long! But not too much, otherwise your motorcycle won't be able to turn. In addition, if you are already extending the fork (the easiest way to achieve this is by installing spacers made from stainless steel pipes), take care to make new yokes. This is necessary in order not to change the tilt of the engine relative to the ground. If you neglect this and simply lengthen the fork, the angle of the motor will change, and it can more or less quickly die from oil starvation, since it will not be properly lubricated.
It would be nice to put the rear wheel wider. Just don’t put on a car wheel—car tires have a square profile, while motorcycle tires have a round profile. Thus, a motorcycle with a rear wheel from a car will turn very poorly. In the case of a chain or belt driven rear wheel, the width of the rear roller will be relatively easy to play with, although you may have to make a different pendulum. If you have a cardan drive, then you cannot do without overcooking the frame.
It is also worth paying attention to the steering wheel. This is, of course, a matter of taste, but on a canonical chopper it should be high. This, however, is the simplest part of tuning - the steering wheel and racks are easy to make to order or buy ready-made ones, and increasing brake lines, wiring and replacing cables is not difficult for a more or less trained person.
The gas tank on a chopper is traditionally small in volume and teardrop-shaped. You can choose a suitable one, but most often they take some old tank, wash it, cut it and digest it.
The suspension on the first choppers was “dry”, the so-called “hardtail” (English: “hard tail”), which means, in fact, the complete absence of rear suspension. Doing this is not recommended due to the real chance of causing problems with the spine, which will then have to be painful, long and expensive to treat.
The rest is a matter of taste. Backs, wings, coloring... There are so many people, so many opinions. Let us only venture to note that the radical chopper is of little use for our conditions. In addition, driving without normal light optics and a front brake is simply dangerous.
So, a prototype was put on public display, very vaguely resembling a modern motorcycle. The design is more reminiscent of the brainchild of the garage Kulibins, who undertook to build a “chopper” from grandfather’s old “Ural”. There is little money and experience, but this is more than compensated by enthusiasm and desire to ride. We won’t talk about the design yet, but we still have a “mule” in front of us, on which the structural elements are being worked out.
The frame of the motorcycle is very similar to the design element of the Irbit motorcycle “Ural” M-63, which was produced in the middle of the last century. Material – steel pipe. Let us recall that the M-63 frame became a logical development of the frame of the M-72 motorcycle, which, in turn, was copied from the BMW R-71 motorcycle of the 1938 model year. Modern technology in action, so to speak.
The rear swingarm integrates the driveshaft and final drive housing. Nobody in the domestic motorcycle industry has ever used such technology, but the same Germans, and even the Japanese, adopted this technological technique about fifty years ago. It is worth noting another technical “novelty”, well known to many garage customizers. Historically, the geometry of the swingarm, frame, and driveshaft placement required the use of very narrow wheels. However, the chopper style requires the installation of a fat tire on the rear wheel. Judging by the photo, the “Russian motorcycle” is equipped with a 200/60R16 wheel (which, by the way, bears the inscription “Made in Germany”). In order to prevent the driveshaft from touching the thick wheel, it was necessary to use a gearbox, which helped move the driveshaft to the side. In general, everything is in the best traditions of garage “tuning”.
The rear suspension shock absorbers were taken straight from the Ural, and the front fork was presumably also borrowed from foreign analogues. The domestic industry has not produced such units for many years.
Since developing engines “from scratch” is a very expensive and time-consuming pleasure, accessible only to very rich and experienced corporations, domestic home-grown motorcycle manufacturers did not “reinvent the wheel” and took the crankcase and cylinder-piston group from the same Ural model one thousand nine hundred and forty as the basis for their engine wild year. According to the creators’ idea, the engine of a real “Russian motorcycle” should have a lower valve design (borrowed from the same IMZ M-72 - BMW R-71, see model year above). At the same time, the engine displacement was increased from 750 to 1,100 cm3, and instead of carburetors (oh, miracle!) A fuel injection system was installed.
However, the manufacturer promises that engine power will be increased to 150 hp. It is obvious that it is impossible to extract the declared power from a lower valve of such a displacement. Let me remind you that the M-72 engine, with a volume of 750 cm3, developed “as much as” 27 hp, and the most powerful of the serial Irbit units, a modern overhead valve of the same volume, develops 40 hp.
Therefore, among the photographs distributed by the manufacturer, there are also shots of overhead valve heads (not to be confused with overhead valves) with two valves per cylinder (obviously borrowed from my grandfather’s box with spare parts from the old Ural). In this case, in the cylinders you can see pistons with grooves for four valves. What the developers wanted to say by this is unclear. Either a four-valve head is planned, or there were no other pistons in the “box with old spare parts” and they inserted what came to hand.
In short, it’s too early to talk about the engine in its final version. It is only clear that this is not the best copy of the engine, which will soon turn 100 (one hundred) years old. Power, judging by external data, is unlikely to exceed 60 hp.
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The picture is completed by a fuel tank borrowed from the Ural Wolf motorcycle from the Irbit plant, a headlight that was clearly transferred to the motorcycle from armored vehicles, and disc brakes that are obviously imported, since nothing like this is produced in Russia. The gearbox is a four-speed unit from Ural (by the way, it is not at all clear how it will cope with the increased power and torque, since it was designed for half the figures).
Looking at all this “splendor”, it becomes sad. Of course, it would be stupid to wait for an ultra-modern motorcycle developed by members of a separate, albeit very odious, motorcycle club and factory that specializes in the production of gas cylinders and wheel chocks for railway cars. But what we see today is more reminiscent of some kind of farce and the construction of a “Potemkin village” in the worst sense of these concepts.
It is obvious that it is impossible to build a motorcycle “entirely using domestic components” in modern realities. Russia does not produce motor tires of the sizes required for such a motorcycle, brake mechanisms, fuel injection systems, lighting equipment (only if from a tank), and not a single company will undertake the casting of crankcases. Today, even leading motorcycle manufacturers order injection moldings for crankcases and cylinders in the countries of Southeast Asia and only carry out the final ones themselves.
If the motorcycle is assembled from old stocks of spare parts and components from the Irbit Motorcycle Plant and VAZ, then the question arises: how will this craft differ from the work of home-grown Lefties who have been whittling similar crooked and oblique self-propelled guns in garages for the last twenty years? It is worth noting that domestic bikers have long abandoned such exercises. And if your hands are really itchy, you can pick at the old “Japanese”. In any case, you can find high-quality spare parts and tuning for it.
We will continue to monitor the odious project. However, we do not intend to be overly optimistic about this.
Choppers appeared as a variant of motorcycles that were converted for street racing. But over time, chopper motorcycles began to be mass-produced, and they transformed into a separate type of motor transport.
The first choppers appeared back in the thirties of the last century, but the biker movement gained popularity in the post-war years. The abundance of identical motorcycles prompted some craftsmen to create exclusive motorcycles, which later became the prototype of the classic chopper.
Inspection of a used chopper
Choppers are usually in good demand on the market. How to choose a good motorcycle that won’t force you to immediately spend a lot of money on restoring it? When purchasing, be sure to check the condition of the motorcycle, especially if you are purchasing used motorcycles:
- gearbox quality;
- oil condition;
- chain wear;
- compression (should be 0.8–1 MPa);
- no rust on the gas tank;
- no corrosion on the fork;
- carry out a test drive: accelerate the chopper to 100 km/h to check the power system - the engine should run without interruptions, if you hear them - the system is dirty;
- check the wear of the bearings; to do this, you need to hang the rear wheel, then swing the pendulum to the sides - there should be no knocking.
Chopper from the Urals - start of work
Having selected a decent motorcycle and checked its engine for performance, you can begin to create a motorcycle - the Ural Chopper. All we need to do to create a chopper is to lengthen the front of the bike and work on the rear wheel and suspension. Let's try to break down the construction process step by step.
Drawing
The process will go much faster if you make a drawing or approximate picture of what the resulting motorcycle will look like. There are quite a lot of drawings of chopper frames on the Internet, so choosing the right one will not be so difficult. If you are confident in your abilities, then you can do without it.
Frame
Perhaps the only difficult stage that you will have to face is the alteration and welding of the frame. The whole secret is to place the steering rack at the right angle, which will ultimately change the angle of inclination, allowing you to set the front fork at the required degree. It is worth saying that a lot of attention needs to be paid to welding this place, since this area will receive quite heavy loads.
Having finished with the front fork, you need to work on the rear part of the future motorcycle - Ural Chopper. As a rule, bikes of this class are quite long due to the large rear wheel. That is why we need to weld the frame so that we can install a wide wheel on the axle
Naturally, this part of the frame should also be given a lot of attention. In general, if you have never done welding before, it is better to entrust this task to specialists, because safety comes first
What types of chopper bikes can you find?
Bicycle choppers differ in several ways. They are divided according to the number of wheels:
- two-wheeled;
- three-wheeled.
Three-wheeled choppers are more popular among children and teenagers. But there are also adults on such a bike. Often a storage basket is mounted above the rear axle.
As a rule, a bicycle chopper is single-speed, but the possibilities expand with the installation of a planetary hub or disc brakes. Then the bike chopper can have up to 14 speeds.
By type of drive there are:
- foot;
- electric.
With the installation of an electric motor on a bicycle chopper, life is transformed:
- you can ride without straining;
- no harmful emissions;
- inexpensive cost of battery charging;
- when the battery is discharged on the road, you can use the pedals;
- works quietly, no smell;
- The electric drive is lightweight and can be installed independently.
DIY frame and fork
Since we are talking about the exorbitant price of recreational city “motorbikes,” is there a homemade alternative to such expensive but attractive bikes?
Theoretically, and practically too, you can turn an ordinary two-wheeled horse into a “convertible” in the form of a chopper with your own hands. Distinctive features from a standard bike are a special frame design and a long fork. To make all this we need:
- standard road bike frame;
- two long pipes;
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- nuts, bolts and washers;
- dropouts.
The two pipes are first accurately compared in size. This will be the core of the fork. Then dropouts are welded from the end where the wheel will be attached.
They need to be clearly fixed in advance, preferably closer to the edges of the pipes. This way the wheels will fit better in their sockets. Dropouts can be made from steel plate. The width of the cutout and the size of the wheel mounts themselves will depend on the given dimensions of the bicycle.
Plate with cutout for wheel axle
Using bolts and washers we create the upper mount on the fork. Don't throw away the old part; it can serve well as a sample. Next, a steering wheel pipe is welded between the pipes:
- We take a steel plate and make a hole in it for the pipe.
- We weld the fork pipes on both sides to both ends of the plate.
- The steering cavity is inserted into the hole and welded tightly.
It will look something like this.
The fork is almost ready
How to build a long frame for a chopper with your own hands?
- Cut off the down pipe.
- Remove the pipe joint (place for the old plug).
- Weld new pipes to the upper horizontal and lower pipes.
- Weld the front ends of the pipes to the assembled fork.
The angle of the frame will change, and you will get something like this:
Chopper frame with wheels on
The geometry of the frame may differ from that shown in the picture, it all depends on its original design. In the middle, you can weld an additional vertical pipe, cut to size: the structure will be more rigid and reliable.
The procedure for creating load-bearing elements for a chopper bicycle is quite complicated, and, most importantly, it is impossible to return the frame to its previous state. That is why you should not experiment with it for the sake of curiosity.
Frame making
Step 7: First Stage
To cut the frame, it must be turned over and secured.
After some actions, the carriage became closer to the front of the bike. Now the frame needs to be lengthened.
We set aside the double top tube, which will look good on a chopper.
It is better to make a mock-up of the future frame before starting assembly in order to correctly place the wheels and determine the desired height of the frame. To do this, it is enough to support the carriage and lengthen the frame using thin pipes.
In the variant under consideration, the top tube turned out to be located a little low, so it had to be bent so that the saddle was at the required height. This must be done carefully so as not to break the pipe.
Well, if this happens, welding will help correct the situation.
If the design is satisfactory, you can move on to the next step, in which the frame is lengthened using steel pipes placed in the gap between the carriage and the two pipes running from the seat tube down.
This is where you will need a model to measure the length of two pipes. Because the angle of the down tube changed, it was necessary to make a bend near the bottom bracket. A pipe bender was used for this.
For now, the seat tube remains dangling, not secured to anything, so that’s what needs to be addressed.
We will again use the cardboard as a template to make another plate of sheet steel, which will be welded to the top of the horizontal pipes under the seat tube.
So the strength of the connection between the new two pipes and the rear ones will be increased. After this, the seat tube is welded to the plate.
The top tube was left dangling.
Another plate made of steel, and a socket made with a grinder in the seat tube, into which it must be inserted and welded, thus increasing the strength of the connection and reducing the load on the weld.
All that remains is to weld the two upper pipes to the steel plate, and they will stop hanging around.
Step 8: Stage two of making the frame
All that remains is to strengthen the frame structure. This can be done using another steel pipe, welding it between the carriage and the top pipe. This makes it possible to change the location of the seat tube, which is currently directed towards the rear of the frame.
Again, using the template, we make a plate and weld it to our pipe: lightly at first, and after selecting the angle, finally. The pipe should not touch the carriage axle. It should not go deep into the carriage.
This is what a finished frame looks like, made in-house for a chopper.
Step 9: How to make a saddle for a chopper?
A plank structure is suitable. In order to make it soft, we use foam material, and for aesthetics we use leather.
The two boards are fastened together using bolts. In the bottom you need to drill two holes through which the seat will be attached to the plate. It must be securely fixed using bolts and nuts.
A construction stapler will help secure the upholstery material with staples.
The leather is also stapled to the seat.
Cruisers and choppers for young cyclists
Close neighbors of chop bikes are cruiser bikes. These are city bikes used for cruising, riding on the streets, riding on highways and traveling to the suburbs. Some elements from a bicycle chopper are clearly present in this model: curved frame pipes, high handlebars and wide-profile tires. The stability, cross-country ability and maneuverability of such bikes can easily compete with the performance of an ordinary road bike.
The frame of the cruiser bicycle is made in the style of the 50s of the last century. At that time, these bikes were actively ridden across the American continent and, for the most part, in tourist centers, along embankments and beaches. The unofficial name of this bike is “beach”, in recent years it has been “remembered”, and the model has reappeared on wide sale.
An original and stylish classic cruiser
In addition to adult “bicycle motorcycles,” you can find chopper bicycles for small children on the shelves. This is a comfortable bike that completely replicates the design of an adult. There is no chain drive, the pedals are attached to the front wheel.
The seat is made in the form of a comfortable armchair; footrests can be located under it.
"Relax bike" for the little ones
A long handle is attached to the back, with which parents can roll the child until he can reach the pedals on his own. In addition, the bike is equipped with other accessories: a basket for all sorts of small items, a visor and even a seat belt!
Of course, the price of such bikes will be higher compared to their classic three-wheeled counterparts, but what can you not buy for your beloved child. By the way, about the cost: for adult chopper bicycles it will differ even more from the average.
Assembly and testing
Step 12: Final Assembly and Testing
The difficult but interesting work of making a chopper has come to an end. All that remains is to carry out tests. It’s easier to convert the bike into a single-speed one, for which you will need to buy a single-speed adapter.
They can easily replace the old gear system. It was already mentioned at the beginning that a chopper bicycle is much longer than a regular bicycle, so you will need two chains. They are connected together.
Step 13: Completing the Assembly
A self-made bicycle is disassembled to remove welding spatter, and the fork and frame are painted in the preferred color. Bearing rings must be protected from paint during work, like other threaded connections.
It is more correct to apply the paint in a thin layer - this way you will make the paint even, without drips. It is better to then apply a second coat of paint.
Step 14: Possible Design Changes
If the model gets bored, you can disassemble it and make changes to the design, cutting off, for example, the back part.
Step 15: Align the Back
Then take the rear end of a small mountain bike.
Here again you need an angle grinder to sand down the extra parts of the frame.
Step 16: Correctly installing the extension lower pipes
Two pipes are cut so that they can be welded to the frame, lengthening the latter.
Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom. MH selection
Among the relatively budget options for cruisers, this modification of the Vulcan is the most attractive in terms of appearance. There is even a version in an all-black matte finish, which looks great on the road. At the same time, Kawasaki does not provide “chrome” options, so keep in mind that guys with leather “noodles” on the handlebars and fox tails on their helmets will not understand you.
The only thing that spoils the appearance of the bike is the comfortable but wide seat, designed for a remarkable butt. At the same time, the short passenger appendage makes the Vulcan a motorcycle for solo riding - only a very miniature passenger can sit on the “tail”, which is 15 centimeters long. But for you, this is for the better - there will be less temptation (the unspoken motorcycle rule says: first season - no passengers, unless you want to become a killer).
We start the engine, and it becomes clear that there is no need to be tricky with tuning the exhaust system on this “Cava”: a thoroughbred bass roar will be heard by drivers of passing cars, but at the same time it will not wake up the babies when you make your way through the courtyard of a residential building.
The dynamics at the start are very, very impressive, but keep in mind: at medium and high speeds the engine is no longer so vigorous, so it is better not to practice overtaking oncoming traffic at speeds exceeding 100 km/h. However, such speeds are only possible on the highway, and the Vulcan is more of a city bike. Be prepared for the fact that it is quick to brake, which is generally not typical for cruisers. Personally, I sharply squeezed the front brake in front of an eccentric, to put it mildly, who jumped out onto the road, and almost flew over the steering wheel.
By the way, about the steering wheel: Kawasaki engineers perfectly calculated the angle of inclination and the amount of reach of its fork, so the Vulcan 900 Custom probably has no equal in handling in this class. I think even a beginner can easily pass the “eight” test, which usually fills half of the applicants for category “A” licenses. This greatly facilitates movement in traffic jams. A tribute to the chopper style - large and narrow front and wide rear wheels - do not add rolliness in corners. So, with a price of 429,000 rubles, the Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom clearly deserves the title of the best cruiser for beginners.
Latest improvements
If you manage to weld a high-quality frame, then you can assume that most of the work has already been done. The only thing I wanted to add was the angle of the front fork. We do not recommend tilting it more than thirty-three degrees. This value is the most optimal for choppers, because the greater the angle of inclination of the front fork, the worse the motorcycle will handle. In our opinion, 28-30 degrees will be more than enough to make the motorcycle look like a real chopper from the Urals, and at the same time handle well.
The last stage is the final assembly of the motorcycle. The engine and other main mechanisms are installed on the frame. The front wheel and handlebars are finally in place and we can see for the first time what our bike looks like after the rework. But in general, the frame is not the only thing that can be done with a Ural motorcycle.
True motorcycle enthusiasts can put all their soul and money into their custom motorcycle, and end up with a Ural Chopper that will delight them for a long time. Installing and reworking the exhaust system, upgrading the fenders, seats, lighting fixtures are just a small part of what can be changed. When modernizing the appearance, you can fully express your imagination or borrow ideas from ready-made choppers.
Choppers appeared as a variant of motorcycles that were converted for street racing. But over time, chopper motorcycles began to be mass-produced, and they transformed into a separate type of motor transport.
The first choppers appeared back in the thirties of the last century, but the biker movement gained popularity in the post-war years. The abundance of identical motorcycles prompted some craftsmen to create exclusive motorcycles, which later became the prototype of the classic chopper.
Introduction to the chopper bike: features, purpose, convenience
Choppers are city bikes for fast movement on asphalt and well-rolled dirt roads. This bike is larger than a regular bike, thanks to which it can easily stand out in dense traffic.
Other specific features of the choppa bike:
- low frame height;
- reclined high seat;
- high steering wheel;
- wide-profile tires and deep tread;
- rolling;
- built-in two-horned footrest;
- the serious length of the fork, located at an angle: this is what significantly increases the dimensions of the chopper compared to a regular bicycle.
On bikes of this series you will not be able to sit in a half-bent position: the geometry determines the seating position as slightly reclined.
This has a significant advantage: better visibility to the front and easier to adjust the rear view mirror. It is much more comfortable to pedal in a relaxed state; we took this into account by equipping the seat of our brainchild with a comfortable backrest. Three-wheeled modifications are also available, some with a rear rack. This bike is perfect not only for lovers of active walks, but also for business cyclists who often carry luggage.
Elegant chopper with three wheels
Special attention is paid to the appearance of a modern chopper:
- frame: straight in the style of minimalism, curved, carved, “various sizes”;
- colors for every taste;
- accessories, canopies and decor.
The single speed option is more common than the speed system bike. However, a second option also exists: a single drive sprocket and a cassette at the rear. A complete analogue of the transmission of high-speed “road cars” with a straight chain run. A special lock is installed in the middle, which prevents the chain from dangling due to its excessive length.
Chopper star speed system
Bicycle classification
For example, for short trips, a clumsy and bulky road bike is suitable. Walking or city - more maneuverable, on shock absorbers, and has several speed modes - very convenient for commuting to work and walking along paths in the park.
A mountain bike is considered a universal type; it is suitable for both rural areas and cities. If you are a fan of fast driving, you should opt for a road model. A touring model is ideal for bicycle trips; you can attach a trunk and a backpack to it. For those who prefer paired riding, there are tandems.
Benefits of a bicycle
The bicycle is the most popular transport on Earth. There are about 1.4 billion bicycles in the world, and approximately 400 million cars.
This happens because a bicycle has a number of advantages: it saves a lot of time, since you don’t have to stand in traffic jams; helps you get rid of extra pounds without running to the gym and grueling workouts; saves money - no need for gasoline.
We paid attention to the main models, but they are constantly being improved and added with all sorts of features. Thus, bicycle choppers, a hybrid of bicycles and motorcycles, are becoming increasingly popular.
The main differences between choppers and bicycles
A characteristic feature of choppers is ease of movement, an elongated frame, a wide handlebar, a special fork, wide tires, an interesting appearance and an original design. Almost any bike can be equipped with any equipment you wish, and you will become the owner of a unique and exclusive bike.
Bicycle culture began in the 1950s in Mexico. Inventor Harry Silva, founder of the workshop of the same name, created the world's first chopper - a large bicycle with a cross-shaped frame and high handlebars. It turned out to be very beautiful, but also quite comfortable. Outwardly, it strongly resembled a motorcycle. Do you need a motor in a bicycle?
Chopper can be used not only as an electric motorcycle, but also as a regular bicycle. Or you can move like this: spin the pedals and help with the motor.
You can cover many kilometers and quite long distances. The battery is charged from a regular household network. And if it runs out, then the pedals will help you out.
Does not require large expenses compared to motorcycles and cars. Allows you to safely bypass traffic jams.
The difference between a bicycle chopper and a regular motorcycle
It’s also worth mentioning separately the advantages of a bicycle chopper over a motorcycle: you can put it at home, it’s not heavy at all and doesn’t stink, and it works silently. The cost of one battery charge is very small, you can quickly and easily get to work without harming the environment.
As a rule, they are bought by people who love everything non-standard, including bikes. We present the most interesting models of non-standard bicycles.
Source: https://AktSport.ru/velosiped/izgotovlenie-velosipeda-svoimi-rukami.html
What a blast from you!
The direct-flow, or direct-flow exhaust system, which many bikers install on their motorcycles instead of the standard muffler, in addition to increasing engine efficiency, makes the engine roar in different ways, but always very loudly. However, ordinary people who care about bikers do not realize that the deafening sound of the exhaust in city traffic plays a vital role for a motorcyclist: it can always be heard in traffic, and the rumble warns drivers in advance about the approach of a bike, which forces them to look again mirrors when changing lanes.
After all, what is scratches and a bent fender or door for a car enthusiast can easily mean death or serious injury for a biker. So we strongly recommend that you install a straight-through exhaust on your cruiser. And in order not to cause a hail of flower pots on your head, try to enter the yard in neutral, and move around it with rare jolts in second gear.
What indicates belt wear?
Before you begin replacement work, you need to make sure that the alternator belt is really worn out, stretched and requires installation of a new part.
The most characteristic and common symptom is rightly called a whistle from the engine compartment. Moreover, this whistle appears precisely at the moment when, at idle speed, a load is applied to the electrical component. Just turn on the headlights or air conditioning. The light may blink and change intensity.
To confirm your own guesses, you should visually check the current condition of the alternator belt. The following signs indicate its wear:
- fibers peel off;
- cracks are visible on the surface;
- elements of the ribs are damaged;
- oil stains appear.
Do not forget that many belts that are installed on these Japanese SUVs, and all original products, are equipped with a wear indicator. By observing it, you can estimate the current resource of the element. If the indicator indicates severe wear, but there are no extraneous noises or visual signs, it is still not recommended to postpone repairs. Follow the indicator so that you can replace the part in time and not provoke the appearance and development of other malfunctions.
An additional but effective inspection measure is manual condition assessment. To do this, you need to check whether the belt is positioned correctly relative to the grooves at the bottom of the pulley. This is especially true for the Toyota Land Cruiser 120.
Even if there are no signs of rupture, cracks or oil on the surface, still check the condition of the belt, which has been in use for quite a long time. It could stretch beyond its service life.
It is enough to apply about 10 kilograms of force with your thumb. If the belt bends by more than 5 mm, then tensioning is required. In a situation where tension does not help, this indicates severe stretching of the part. Nothing other than replacement will help in this situation.