Do-it-yourself rug making machine

Today, a loom in the house is exotic. And some 70-80 years ago every village housewife had one. In many ways, this is a plus, because it means that the modern standard of living allows everyone to purchase ready-made clothes and fabrics, rather than waste time and effort on making them. However, modern women (and men) are increasingly interested in this forgotten craft, recreating ancient village weaving looms. Let's find out a little more about the features of these devices, as well as how you can make them yourself at home.

Weaving machine and its structure

This device was invented before our era. Over the past millennia, its design has been improved. However, some elements remained unchanged.

The basis for fabric production on any loom is vertical threads. They are called the main ones. The very process of creating a canvas is the interweaving of horizontal (weft) threads between the base ones. To do this, manual looms use a shuttle (a rectangular, flat spool with pointed edges). Its shape allows it to easily slide among the warp and pull through the weft threads.

Another important part of any loom is the reed. This is the name given to the frequent comb used to compact the fabric after each shuttle run. Without such “combing”, the finished fabric will be loose and uneven. In most household and industrial weaving looms, a special bar with teeth is used instead of a reed.

The last integral element of each such device is the frame that controls the base threads. Their function is to take turns raising either the even or odd ones. Thus, a more reliable and varied weave of the fabric is achieved.

Types of machines

These devices are classified according to different indicators.

By design they distinguish between flat and round looms. The latter is used to produce only a special type of fabric.
Based on the width of the fabric produced, narrow (up to 1 m) and wide (over 1 m) machines are distinguished.
Based on the type of weaving of threads, weaving devices are distinguished that produce simple fabrics (eccentric), with a small pattern (carriage) and large-patterned fabrics (jacquard) for the production of the most complex patterns.
Regarding the principle of operation, there are: manual, semi-mechanical, mechanical and fully automatic machines.

Particularly worth highlighting are the so-called frame looms. Usually they are completely devoid of any mechanisms; they have to be woven by hand.

Short story

Judging by ancient Egyptian images, already in those days humanity invented some kind of handloom. Most peoples had a similar design. This is evidenced by the drawings and archaeological finds that have reached us.

As a rule, they were woven from threads of plant (linen, silk, hemp, cotton) and animal origin (wool yarn). Naturally, such fabrics were not very strong and durable. To provide clothes for the family, they had to weave every year. In this regard, almost every peasant family had a home loom.

Although weaving was practiced in every family, there were craftsmen who specialized in the production of special fabrics or carpets (tapestry). For many centuries this profession was very profitable and prestigious.

Everything changed with the advent of the mechanical loom. Now it was possible to produce large quantities of fabric with minimal time and labor. Gradually they began to equip factories that produced cheaper fabric than weavers. Soon the latter were forced out of the market. By the beginning of the 20th century, the weaving profession was losing its former prestige. Now they were engaged in the production of homemade linen only for their own needs.

As a rule, machines inherited from grandmothers were used for this. Or we had to make them ourselves.

Information on how to make a loom was taken in those days from two sources. It was either a manual by I. Levinsky, published back in 1911. The book was called “Improved Handloom”. It contained fairly clear illustrations, with the help of which it was not difficult to assemble the necessary equipment.

The second reference book was V. Dobrovolsky’s manual “How to build a loom and weave simple fabrics,” published in 1924.

Both publications can still be found in libraries today.

By the beginning of the 80s, the standard of living of the peasantry began to rise. This allowed many of them to give up weaving, buying ready-made fabrics in stores. Now the looms were gathering dust again in closets and attics. Only fans of this craft have preserved them. It is noteworthy that today most of them are well over 70 years old.

Since the 2000s (when store shelves were filled with various factory-made textiles), interest in making linen by hand has increased again.

Factory machines

If you are wondering how to make a DIY loom, then you are one of those who want to create their own textile products from scratch. To do this, it is not necessary to make the machine yourself. You can buy it.

Tabletop loom drawings

The handloom is used to produce cloth from different types of fabrics. Making it yourself is not difficult. But first you need to understand the operating principles and design of this equipment.

Weaving loom device

A standard loom works by laying out the thread using a metal threader. On weaving machines, a shedding mechanism is required to be installed, which moves the warp threads in a vertical position. It is divided into three types:

Cam type. Well suited for the production of fabrics with simple weaves. Used for working with satin and small repeats. This type is also divided into two, depending on the movement of the heald.
Carriage. Used for complex designs. There can be up to 34 shafts in this mechanism. The movement of the shafts in the carriages occurs using a special lifting mechanism. Shafts are very diverse in their design and functionality.
Jacquard. The largest number of weaves and patterns is provided by this mechanism. Each thread in such a mechanism rises independently of the other.

In addition to the shedding mechanism, the machines differ in the width of the filling. Narrow looms have about 220 cm, and wide ones start from 250 cm. In the design of a simple weaving loom, there are several main mechanisms by which work is carried out:

shedding. The pharynx can be open and closed, as well as semi-open;
mechanisms that introduce the duck into the throat;
the weft is beaten to the edge of the fabric, at this moment a new element of the fabric is formed;
a mechanism for moving the warp thread in the longitudinal direction;
mechanism for moving the web and retracting it. These mechanisms help remove the fabric from the weaving area;
releasing the web from the machine;
reed – part of the machine in the form of a comb through which the warp thread passes. It is used for beating weft fabric.

In addition, the design of the machine provides for the presence of guide mechanisms. These can be rods, rocks, as well as scallops and chests. Starting and installation mechanisms are also available. Heald - two wooden strips that are connected to pushers by a heald drive.

Principle of operation

The work process consists of transmitting movement to the central shaft, and then to all other moving elements of the machine. The process consists of several stages:

Yawning. Has three phases:
spade phase. This is the phase of the beginning of a new pharynx. All threads are located at the middle level;
phase of opening the pharynx. The threads move to the lower and upper positions;
standing phase. Full opening of the pharynx and stationary position of the threads;
closing phase. The threads move to the middle position towards the spade phase.
Inserting the weft into the throat.
Surf to the edge of the duck cloth.
Product movement.
Lowering the blade from the beam.

The base of the machine is made from lumber. They must be fastened as tightly and reliably as possible.

Many people associate weaving with woven rugs and towels in old huts. But in the modern world, woven fabrics are very popular. At the same time, making a manual machine yourself is not difficult. Requires a simple set of tools and patience.

Weaving large items will require experience, so you need to start with the smallest things. Try weaving a table napkin or small towel. This can be done even with a small loom.

How to make a loom with your own hands

To make a loom with your own hands, you first need to draw up a drawing. The diagram makes it easier to navigate the sizes. The larger the frame sizes, the larger the maximum size of the fabric produced.

Then you will need two frames. One should be larger, the second smaller. If the size of the large frame is 30 x 10 cm, you can knit a scarf for the doll. To produce the machine you will need frames in the form of a quadrangle. They can be made of flat, strong slats. Then you need to follow the algorithm:

Holes in the form of rounded openings are drilled in two slats.
Round slats must be inserted into the holes and secured with wedges or other means so that they do not move from side to side.
Grooves are made in the middle part of the square rail, and a comb is installed in them.
For complete stability, the bottom is fixed, preferably plywood.
At the front, on a round strip, nails are driven in at intervals of 5 mm to tension the thread.
The back rail is fixed, which is necessary in order to wind up excess fabric.

Prepare the tooth sizes in advance. They should be 7-10 cm in length and 0.5-0.7 cm in width.

The comb is being made. According to standards, it must be at least 15 cm in height. The length of the comb exceeds the distance between the side frames. Made from thick sheet of plywood.

How to make the simplest machine from thick cardboard

The process of creating fabric itself is not very complicated. If you plan to weave small items like belts, bracelets or napkins, you can make a very simple handloom.

To do this you need a sheet of thick cardboard. If you don’t have it on hand, you can use juice or milk packaging material.

To begin with, take an even rectangle. Next, equal distances are measured along the edges and tiny rectangles are cut out at the top and bottom. All.

Now the warp threads (vertical) are pulled through these holes and secured. An ordinary gypsy needle will act as a shuttle. Using it to stretch horizontal threads between the main threads, you will gradually be able to weave a small piece of fabric.

Of course, on such a primitive machine it will only be possible to weave coarse fabric. However, most craftswomen who began their creative journey with such a device advise in their reviews not to neglect this machine. It will be an excellent budget start that will help you get your bearings and understand the process a little. In addition, once you start working on it, you will be able to decide for yourself whether this trade is interesting to you.

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PRODUCT DEVICE

A hand knitting machine consists of five main parts.

1) The body of the machine is made of aluminum tube.

2) Chelny. ok made of aluminum. There is a slot on the side for thread passage. The shuttle has a 45 degree cut. Inside the shuttle, in the back wall, there is a 2.5 mm conical recess for fixing the bobbin.

3) The bobbin is made of bronze on a lathe. The bobbin moves freely in the shuttle.

4) The shuttle plug is made of aluminum. In the center there is a through hole d=2-3 mm for fixing the second end of the bobbin. The cork is inserted into the shuttle tightly so that it does not fall out during operation.

5) The shuttle stroke limiter is made of an aluminum plate.

PREPARATION FOR WORK

The bobbin with thread is inserted into the shuttle and closed with a stopper. The assembled shuttle is inserted into the body of the machine, with the plug facing forward until it stops. The sharp end of the shuttle is located at the bottom of the machine body. The limiter does not reach the shuttle 2-3 mm. This is necessary for the passage of thread during work. The thread passes through the slot of the shuttle and is tied to the net.

KNITTING

For knitting, a spatula made of any material of the required size per mesh is also used. The thread lies on the shoulder blade. The lower part of the machine fits into the cell. The mesh thread passes under the shuttle and comes out from above the shuttle. Pull it to the shoulder blade and press the thread with your finger. We throw the thread from the shuttle to our left, in a semi-ring, and grab one or two threads of the mesh. The mesh thread also passes around the shuttle and comes out from above. And the thread that we throw from ourselves to the left should pass from the bottom of the machine. Pull, and the knot is ready, without moving the machine in your hands.

You can knit it differently, as you wish. The main thing is that the knot is knitted quickly.

KNITTING ON A BAR

We take a block 1.5-2 m long, with a cross section of 30X30 mm. A nail is firmly fixed at the beginning of the block. And, retreating 200 mm, we make markings, for example: 36 mm (depending on the mesh size). The distance between the holes should be the same along the entire length of the bar.

The diameter of the holes is 1-3 mm (depending on the nail). Hole depth 20 mm. The nail should fit into the hole freely, but not dangle (Fig. 1). We start the network on a board. Let's tie it like this for about a meter. Then, when you understand the meaning, you can start on the block. A nail is inserted into the first hole. All cells are dialed onto it. And the net is pulled over the “dead” nail and secured. Then we pull out the free nail with the cells on it and insert it into the next hole. The thread is wound around the nail, taken with two fingers, the index and middle, then a flip is made away from you to make a loop (Fig. 2). The loop should be above the cell at the top (Fig. 3). We grab the mesh through the loop and pass the needle through the mesh (Fig. 4). The thread is not released from the fingers, but tension is applied towards itself, there should be an overlap (Fig. 5).

The overlap should be over the hole that is in front of the nail. Press the overlap with your index finger and pull the needle tight. At the same time, the thread that was on the middle finger should slide off. Tighten the knot tighter. This principle is more easily understood by those who have knitted with a fillet knot. All cells are knitted on one nail. Then the nail is rearranged, etc.

NETWORKING

To attach the fabric to the lower and upper leash, strong nylon threads are used. For the top rein -

When using a nylon cord (preferably not twisted), a belt, etc. For the lower one - rubber 0.5-1 mm wide or a nylon cord (belt). The lower leash is always longer than the upper one - then the net will be even.

On the upper leash, floats are made of foam, birch bark or wood. The floats are placed at a distance of 1-2 m from each other. Rings made of wire D = 3-4 mm are hung on the lower leash. Rings D=10-20 cm are placed strictly under the floats. The rings should not go into the mesh or down the fit.

For a quick attachment, we use a board 80X10X2 cm (Fig. 1), on which nail A is hammered tightly; the second C has holes for rearranging depending on what kind of net you set, close or not to the leader. Rubber B moves depending on the mesh size.

We put the board on a chair and sit on it. Next to the wall we hang the assembled canvas on a nail. We hang the lower edge of the canvas just below the level of the board. We attach the upper leash to the bottom of the canvas. To do this, we retreat 0.5-1 cm from the edge of the leash and tie a landing thread. If the net is 36 mm, then we move elastic B from the nail to 36X4 = 144 mm. We put the first five cells on a needle with a landing thread and pull it through. We pull the leash along the board with our left hand and hold it at point A, where the knot is located. We put the thread from A to C and on B. At the intersection of the leash and elastic band B, we tie the landing thread on the leash, then remove it, etc.

We turn the net over, hang it by the upper leash on a nail and attach the lower leash.
We make the distance AB on the board 36X2 = 722 mm by moving the elastic band. Nail C can also be moved closer to A. We put two meshes on the needle and tie it, etc. (Fig. 2). The knot can be tied sequentially (Fig. 3, 4, 5). For strength, connect the edges of the lower and upper leash with a landing thread, passing through all the cells. With a different cell size, the distance from A to B will change accordingly, but the number of cells remains the same. We also recommend:

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Frame type machines

If you've mastered the cardboard jig and are ready for more, it's worth taking up making a frame loom.

It's easy to do. A rectangle or square of the size you need is knocked out of wooden planks. Next, nails are driven evenly into it from above and below. They will serve as fasteners for threads.

Before starting work, a base is stretched between the upper and lower rows of nails. Next, weft threads are passed between these threads.

If the frame is very large, it is worth making a small shuttle for it from a piece of the remaining plank. To do this, you need to sand it well, give it a thin streamlined shape and make grooves along the edges so that it is convenient to wind the thread onto it.

If the frame size is modest, you can use a large gypsy needle.

Please note that for this type of hand loom a reed is already required to ensure that the fabric is dense. This comb can be made from the same wooden plank by cutting holes in it corresponding to the location of the threads on the nails.

If you plan to sew clothes from woven fabric, you can make frames in the shape of patterns for future parts. This way, you won’t have to waste extra material when cutting, which you spent so much effort creating.

Homemade loom

The design of a homemade loom is shown in Fig. 1.

The horizontally located large frame is simply knocked together from suitable flat slats. Moreover, the longitudinal slats are nailed with their ends to the transverse slats. The internal dimensions of this frame are 26x130 cm, so the scarf and floor runner mentioned above will fit in it. Inside this frame, a smaller frame is vertically inserted, which can be easily raised and lowered relative to the larger frame. This movable frame is designed to lift up and lower down the odd warp threads. Let us remember that the warp is threads located parallel to each other, running along the fabric.

The structure of the movable frame is clear from Fig. 2. Like a large frame, this frame is knocked down or glued together from strong slats. Small nails are driven into the top bar, and a double folded smooth thread (or thin cord) is attached to each of them. The hanging ends of each thread are tied twice (see Fig. 2) to make a loop (“window”). The lower ends of these threads (or laces) are either tied around the bottom rail or attached to nails driven into it (the latter method of attaching threads to the bottom rail is shown in Fig. 2).

Now let's return to our horizontal frame. We hammer nails into its front (left in Fig. 1, a) rail, which are necessary to secure the warp threads. We cut the yarn (threads) into pieces so that the length of one thread is equal to twice the distance between the transverse slats of the frame (plus a small allowance for attaching the thread). We hang each such pair of threads on its “own” stud of the “left” slats. Next, insert a vertical frame into the horizontal frame and begin laying the warp threads. Please note that all even threads (2nd, 4th, 6th and so on) are pulled directly from the “left” frame rail between the threads of the vertical frame, and the ends of these even threads are secured with nails on the “right” one. horizontal frame rail. Try to correctly lay the even warp threads, as the quality of the fabric being produced will depend on this. In Fig. 2, the position of the even warp threads in the vertical frame is indicated by the letter p. All odd threads (1st, 3rd, 5th, and so on) coming from the “left” frame rail are directed through the loops (“windows”) formed in the threads of the vertical frame, while the ends of the odd warp threads are not fixed on the right rail of the frame, like the ends of even threads, and are attached to a special movable rail (see Fig. 2). Let us also add that the movable rail is attached to the ends of the “right” frame with an elastic rubber band.

The transverse thread of the “wefts” is wound on a shuttle, which (Fig. 3) is usually cut out of thin plywood or board with a jigsaw. The dimensions of the shuttle are arbitrary; they depend only on the thickness of the thread.

Having tensioned the warp threads, we begin to work on the product. Moving the vertical frame up, we lift all the odd warp threads, and then use a shuttle to pull the weft thread between the even and odd warp threads (see Fig. 1). Then we lower the vertical frame, as a result of which the odd threads are lower than the even ones, and again stretch the shuttle with the weft thread between them. To ensure that the weft thread lies evenly and firmly in the fabric, we “nail” the weft rows to each other with a regular comb. It is clear that you can work on such a machine by installing it between the tables, which will make it possible to freely move the vertical frame up and down. It’s better to install a horizontal frame on strong legs. Then our loom can be placed directly on the table (Fig. 4). We are not touching here on the artistic side of the weaving process. Let’s just say that by alternating threads of different colors, it is possible to obtain a product with a “checkered” or “striped” pattern.

Weaving as a craft was known 5 thousand years ago. Then fabrics were woven from flax, cotton, wool, and silk. Linen and silk fabrics were used for the clothing of wealthy people, while the poor wore items made of wool and cotton. Today the material is woven in weaving factories. However, handicraft lovers enjoy weaving rugs, capes and bedspreads at home just as their great-grandmothers did many years ago. For home weaving, you can make a small loom. So, making a loom.

Assemble the quadrangular frame of the machine: make round holes at the ends in two square wooden slats, insert two round slats of smaller diameter into them, wedge them so that they do not move. In the middle of the side square rail, make grooves for installing the comb. A plywood bottom can be attached to the bottom of the machine for structural stability. On the front round rail, hammer in the required number of nails every 0.5 cm to tension the warp threads. The back rack can be used to wind excess thread.

Make a comb 15 cm high. It can be cut out of a piece of thick plywood. Its length should be slightly greater than the distance between the sides of the frame. The number of teeth should be equal to half of the nails stuffed onto the main rail, the length of the teeth is 10 cm, the width is 0.5 cm, the distance between them is 0.5 cm. Also stuff thin nails 1.5-2 cm long onto each tooth of the comb. Strengthen comb in place, into the grooves in the middle of the machine blade.

Prepare a smooth wooden strip, the length of which should also be less than the distance from the inside of the machine. Stick thin nails on it in 1 cm increments.

Make a weft - a movable transverse part of the machine. This can be either a device for holding the spool or a completely separate board cut from plywood on which the thread will be wound. Tie equal lengths of thread to the front shaft studs.

Next, distribute the threads into even and odd. Stretch the even-numbered threads and secure them on the comb by wrapping them around the nails on the teeth. Fasten the odd threads on a movable shaft, which will be located behind the comb, also wrapping them around the heads of driven nails. Excess threads can be wound onto the bar by turning it evenly. The result is the base of the fabric.

Wind the thread around the weft. Secure the end of the thread on the left side of the frame in front of the front rail. Raise the bar with your right hand and push the weft into the resulting shed across the threads from left to right. Now lower the bar to the bottom of the loom, again pass across the wefts from right to left. In this way, row by row, you can weave small items.

A visual aid for making a loom with your own hands

First of all, prepare the two side walls of the machine (Fig. a). At point “1” connect them with a bar (Fig. b). At point “2” attach a comb 30 cm long and 15 cm high (Fig. c). The length of the teeth is 10 cm, their width is 0.5 cm, the distance between two adjacent teeth is also 0.5 cm. In total, 30 teeth must be placed on the comb. Place thin nails about 2 cm long on top of the teeth. Drive the nails to half their length. Place the next row of nails on the front side of the comb, 12 cm below the tops of the teeth. To give the machine more stability, attach a bottom to it.

The next part of the machine is a shaft with 60 nails, packed at a distance of 0.5 cm from each other. Their caps should be 3 mm above the shaft. Make the shaft axis from two thick nails (Fig. d). To prevent the cylinder from rotating while weaving, drill another hole next to the hole for its axis for a screw with a wing nut. This screw will go through the shaft and secure it (Fig. e). Finally, prepare a 30 cm long strip and hammer 30 nails onto it at a distance of 1 cm from each other.

Now let's start weaving. First, stretch the base. To do this, cut wool or paper threads to the size of the machine. Tie their ends to the heads of the nails located on the shaft. So, you will have 60 threads. Pull thirty of them (all odd numbers) and wrap them around the studs on the comb. In this case, it is enough to wrap the thread around the top nail only twice. Pull the thread from it to the bottom nail and wrap it around it twice too (Fig. e). Wrap thirty even threads around thirty studs on the bar. Then rotate the bar, thus winding the threads around it. Make sure that each thread is wound near the nail to which it is tied.

The weft is intertwined with the warp using a shuttle. Make a shuttle from a plank, as shown in Fig. "and". Cut a hole in the middle for the spool. Next to it, use a chisel to hollow out two sockets for its axis. To prevent the coil from falling out, secure it with two tin plates, which should cover the hollowed out sockets. The dimensions of the coil are 6x9 cm. If the coil turns out to be wooden, then drive a nail without a head into both ends. They will serve as the axis of the coil. But it is better to use a metal coil. You can wind more threads on it, and, in addition, it has its own axis. The shuttle should be smooth. Therefore, treat it with a rasp and sand it with sandpaper so that it does not catch the warp threads. Drill a hole in the side of the shuttle towards the spool and, in turn, also clean it with a file. Then wind the thread onto the spool, pull its end through the hole in the side wall of the shuttle and insert the spool into the shuttle.

You need to weave as follows: tie the end of the thread protruding from the shuttle to the first nail on the shaft, near the left hand. With your right hand, lift the bar with thirty threads so that they are about 10 cm above the upper ends of the comb teeth. With your left hand, pass the shuttle. Then lower the bar 10 cm down and throw the shuttle to the left.

Then raise the bar again by moving the shuttle to the right. Continue this way until you have weaved 25 cm of fabric. Then unwind all thirty threads on the teeth of the comb, loosen the wing nut of the screw and wind the woven part of the fabric onto the shaft. Then secure the cylinder again, stretch the warp again and continue weaving again.

To make a simple homemade loom, you will only need wooden planks, from which you will have to knock together (or glue) two frames (one large, one smaller). For planks, it is advisable to choose hardwood (birch, beech, oak, larch, etc.).

I note that on such a loom you can weave a scarf from thick woolen yarn, a runner, colored braid and other useful things. The dimensions of the machine depend only on you. If you want, for example, to weave a scarf for your daughter’s doll, then a large frame can be made up to 30 cm long and 10 cm wide.

The machine, the design of which we offer you, will produce a scarf for an adult. Using such a machine it will also be possible to make a floor path measuring 22x120 cm.

The design of a homemade loom is shown in Fig. 1. How to make a homemade loom with your own hands. Schemes, drawings of the weaving loom Fig. 1. Design of the loom: 1 - “left” frame rail; 2 - ducks; 3 - shuttle; 4 — vertical frame; 5 — “right” frame rail; 6 — rubber band; 7 — mobile rail; 8 - warp threads.

The structure of the movable frame of the loom is clear from Fig. 2. Like a large frame, this frame is knocked down or glued together from strong slats. Small nails are driven into the top bar, and a double folded smooth thread (or thin cord) is attached to each of them. The hanging ends of each thread are tied twice (see Fig. 2) to make a loop (“window”). The lower ends of these threads (or laces) are either tied around the bottom rail or attached to nails driven into it (the latter method of attaching threads to the bottom rail is shown in Fig. 2).

And further. At the end of the work, before cutting the ends of the threads (or removing them from the nails), it is necessary to overcast the edges (end sides) of the scarf or track with a thread of the appropriate color.

Homemade looms, like factory ones, are used to make all kinds of fabrics. They are inferior to factory ones only in size, and therefore are unsuitable for the production of large canvases. But they are ideal for making small rugs and tapestries. In addition, this will further decorate your interior and serve as a reason to boast to your guests about the creation of your hands.

Only at first glance it seems that making a loom with your own hands is very difficult. In fact, even a non-professional can make it, you just need to be careful and pay extreme attention to the dimensions. A handloom is made from wood. There are many of this tool. The loom, located on the table, has miniature dimensions. He will be your assistant in creating unique paintings: panels, tapestries, patterned paths and many other interior items.

Such a machine consists of a wooden frame onto which the base of the future woven product is stretched. Grooves are cut out on opposite sides of the frame, and in the middle there is another frame, which has a cut to the middle of the section, through the grooves of which every second thread passes (let's call it a conditionally red thread). It turns out that half of the red threads, passing horizontally through the grooves, rise above the base. Other threads (even if they are conventionally called blue) are located high above the red ones. When the middle bar is turned to the left and at an angle of ninety degrees, the red threads come out of the groove and rise to the top, and the blue ones take their place. Another thread is pulled between these threads; when the bar is turned, the yarn is clamped between them. When the bar moves to the side, the threads are pressed against each other, and the position for work is fixed. The thread that is pinched in the middle is called weft. It is wound onto the shuttle. You can use colored threads, then the product will be striped.

This is how a home loom works.

Making a loom

First, the parts of the machine located lengthwise are made. To do this, take two wooden planks, you can cut them yourself, length 30 cm and cross-section 0.12 by 0.12 cm. The ends are cut to half the thickness with a depth of 0.1 cm and sharpened with a knife.

The length of the transverse parts is 20 cm, and the cross-section should be 0.1 by 0.22 cm. The ends are processed similarly to the longitudinal ones, then rounded off with a plane and cut out, 0.6 cm from the ends, grooves measuring 15 by 0.2 cm. 30 transverse grooves are cut into these planks. The bars are applied to each other so that the grooves located across them are located on the outside, and are fastened with nails. The transverse edges of the planks should be at right angles to the cuts. The bar that lifts the threads should have a cross-section of 0.17 by 0.17 cm. Along the entire length in the diagonal section, cuts should be made to half the section. Squares with a side of 0.14 cm are cut at a distance of 0.22 cm from the ends.

The length of the part for the shuttle is 21 cm, and the cross-section is 3 by 0.4 cm. In the widened part of the shuttle, a hole is cut in the shape of a semicircle with a radius of 0.6 cm, and in the narrow part, with a diameter of 0.12 cm.

The parts to assemble the loom are ready. Then they are polished, eliminating irregularities, connected together with glue, while strengthening them with nails. After the glue has dried, the loom is varnished and painted.

The shuttleless table loom (STB) is designed for the manufacture of products from wool, silk, linen and cotton fabrics. The STB machine is distinguished by high productivity and reliable operation of all components.

Such a device is currently quite widespread.

Weaving loom for rugs

In addition to clothes, bed linen and towels, our grandmothers wove carpets and bedspreads on their looms. To create such products, the same classical devices were used. However, they are quite bulky. In addition, it takes a lot of time and effort just to thread the machine to start working on carpets.

Therefore, a simpler weaving device, the frame type, is very popular.

As a rule, rugs that are well known to all of us are created on such a machine from scraps of old clothes. You can also use special thick woolen threads.

How to make such a loom with your own hands? Quite simple. It is an improved version of the classic frame. However, it will be larger and longer. As fasteners for the base threads, you will have to use large nails or screws with thick legs and wide heads.

Pay attention to the special detail. You need to place 4 metal loops along the four edges of the machine. They are needed to fix 2 rods. When working on a rug, they will need to be inserted into its edges so that the width of the finished product is uniform.

Small loom for a child

All types of weaving are very useful for children. This work develops fine motor skills of children's fingers, trains logical thinking, and promotes perseverance. To show your baby how amazingly threads make fabric, try weaving a simple rug with it.

You will need any rectangular food tray (a hard plastic or polystyrene backing will do). You also need scissors, tape and several pieces of colored woolen thread. It is better to take threads that are not too twisted so that they do not get tangled during work.

Round machine for rugs

Many people like round floor mats rather than rectangular ones. To weave them, you need to use a round loom.

You can make it, for example, from an ordinary plastic hoop. Just make sure that it is not curved, as this will affect the quality of the finished product.

First, the edges are marked around the entire circle. Next, you can drill holes at the marks or drive in nails. Some people simply tie the threads to the rim itself. However, with this technique, the finished rug will not be of very high quality, since poorly secured threads can sag or move out.

If you were not lazy and made normal fasteners for the base, you can start working. To do this, the main threads are pulled radially. The machine begins to resemble a bicycle wheel. Now you can start weaving the rug from the very middle.

As a rule, this machine is operated by hand. Reviews advise using a miniature shuttle or a large needle only when making very thin fabric.

Description of weaving technology

Next, we decide on the size of the canvas to be created and cut it out from dublerin.

piece of the required size +0.5 cm allowance.

We place it on our loom with the adhesive side facing out. We need it so that when our canvas is ready, we can fix it and the drawing will not move.

Next, apply a ruler along the upper edge and begin inserting needles, at the same time pinning the doubler.

We need to do this along the top and bottom edges in order to stretch the threads between them.

In the photo, the needles are inserted at a distance of 1 cm. But through experience, I found out that this is a lot. The distance should be 0.5 cm. Then the result is a less loose, more neat canvas.

When we have inserted the needles along the top and bottom edges, we begin to tension the thread.

It is better to take a thread of a neutral color and definitely NOT

stretching.

We start by tying the thread to the outermost needle. (Lower left corner in the photo). And we simply begin to tighten the thread, as if we were drawing a zigzag, passing the thread through all the needles. We finish in the same way, tying the thread to the outermost needle (upper right corner in the photo)

The preparatory stage is over, let's start weaving!

Now we take as many threads of different textures as possible. You can take both floss and wool. Fantasy is not limited by anything. The main thing here is not to overdo it with color. It is better to choose 2-3 primary colors and match them with as many shades as possible.

We also need a large needle with a large eye (in the store they call it a darning needle), thick yarn should fit into the eye.

How to make a machine from plywood or wood

If you have enough space to accommodate a full-fledged weaving device, it is worth trying to make a more professional model. Most often they are made from plywood or wood.

There are many ways to make such a device with your own hands.

There should be two rollers at the very beginning and at the end. Threads are wound onto one, and finished fabric onto the other. The ideal option is to make them with bolts or handles with the possibility of fixation.

If your machine does not have a separator that facilitates the slipping of the shuttle, you should first attach not 1, but 2 rollers. One will place the even warp threads, and the other will place the odd warp threads.

The last required detail is the reed. It can be made from 2 wooden planks with nails often driven between them.

When threading the machine, the threads will need to be passed between these teeth.

If all this is done correctly, you can get to work.

Machine tools from other scrap materials

In addition to wood and plywood, weaving jigs of the above type can also be made from other materials. For example, from plastic pipes. When making miniature models, ordinary combs or cards are used. A photo of such a machine is presented above.

Also, when making miniature models, ordinary combs or cards are used. And the machine itself can be built from a cardboard box.

If you want to show your creativity even in the way of creating your own loom, go for it! You will succeed.

Nowadays you can buy almost all home craft products in stores. But sometimes you don’t have the money to buy it or you want to make something yourself. Recently, the variety of interiors has simply gone off scale. Designers often use antique items to create a unique and unique atmosphere in the home.

Many people cannot afford to hire a designer and purchase unusual decorative elements, so you can make such items yourself. For example, woven carpets will add color to the interior. And if they are made on their own, they will delight you every day. Moreover, with them your home will become cozy and warm. In addition to carpets, you can make napkins or lampshades. All these items are made using a loom.

All these things were made using a handloom. The first looms were large wooden structures. There were weaving looms in almost every house. And they were taught to use them from childhood. The skills of patterned weaving were passed down to the younger generation. Ancient looms were mostly shuttleless.

If you are interested in an activity such as weaving, then you can make a loom with your own hands at home. The loom is widely used in the modern world. The shuttleless table loom is also designated as STB. It is used in the processing of various fabrics to obtain finished products.

Children's loom instructions

The game introduces the child to the principle of operation of the loom and allows you to make your own woven fabric.

Set contents: loom frame, shuttle, heald, reed, warp thread, wool (6 colors), instructions. Machine size: 18x2x24 cm.

For children over 5 years old.

497 rub. in stock *

planned delivery date: 08/12/2019 (Mon.)

package	Cardboard box
packing size	185x250x25 mm
country of manufacture	Russia
standard	24 pcs.

manufacturer's article number 591

weight 233 g

discount system code 25

code in My-shop.ru 991007

• While this was not available, I bought an imported analogue at a more expensive price, but I couldn’t do anything with it. In the end, I finally ordered this one and am very happy. The instructions are good and most importantly, they are there. The price was also a pleasant surprise.

• Hello! Will this machine be available for sale soon?

• Good afternoon! Unfortunately, there is no information about admission.

• Good afternoon! What is the difference from this machine? https://my-shop.ru/shop/toys/991006.html?b45=1_4

• Good afternoon! https://my-shop.ru/shop/toys/991007.html - the designer is not colored.

https://my-shop.ru/shop/toys/991006.html - the designer is painted.

• Tell me, what are the dimensions of this machine?

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Video content titled " Children's Loom"

" was posted by the author of "IGROCITY - a store of educational games and toys" for 2 years. ago, it was already viewed 6,386 times. The video was liked by 46 and disliked by 2 users.

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Description:

Order from Igrocity:

A children's loom allows you to make your own woven fabric.

By setting the color of the threads, and also changing the threads as we weave, you can create fabric with different patterns. The simplest type of pattern: striped or checkered. From the fabric obtained at the end, you can make, for example, a cosmetic bag, a case for a phone or glasses. The child will use something that he made entirely himself!

HOW TO USE A WEAVING LOOM?

At first, it may seem that using a baby loom is not that easy. In the instructions you will find such terms as: reed, heald and shuttle.

However, you shouldn’t be scared; after carefully reading the instructions, in just 15 minutes, you and your child will master a new area for themselves - weaving.

First, you need to carefully thread the thread into the tabletop loom. These are the shared threads of your future canvas.

Using a heddle (a block with slots for threads) you can raise even threads and lower odd ones. A shuttle is a tool similar to a wooden wrench; a weft thread is wound around it. The reed looks like a comb and serves to “tamp” the fabric so that each thread lies tightly.

THE STEP-BY-STEP WEAVING PROCESS LOOKS LIKE THIS: - Using a heddle, you raise the even threads and lower the odd ones. - Using a shuttle, pass the thread into the gap between the even and odd threads. — Using the reed, move the thread closer to the canvas. — Twist the heald (change position): lower the even threads, and raise the odd ones.

- The process repeats itself!
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Ideas and useful tips from Igrocity:

Video source youtube.com/watch?v=8o_u50mMXNg

This video about modeling can be viewed online, as well as downloaded absolutely free and without registration in almost any video format: mp4, x-flv, 3gpp and so on. You just need to click on the “Download” button at the top of the site and move the slider to the right.

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Michael Faraday interesting facts

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Do you love to weave, and suddenly find yourself far from your favorite machine?
You can’t decide to buy a rather large and expensive machine?
Do you love learning new techniques but aren't sure you need a loom?
Maybe you like to do everything yourself, even if it’s easier to buy?
You don't know what else to do with your child?
Do you admire the ability to make anything out of anything?
Then this creative collection is for you!
The loom is simple, like everything ingenious. Here is the appearance and detailed drawing:

Does it look very archaic? Try to look at it through the eyes of a modern person! For example, like this:

You can make a fashionable modern frame from plastic pipes:

Here are more compact desktop machines for those who are not yet ready for big feats:

When you don’t have the strength to weave as much as you want, you can greatly simplify the design:

And if you are ready to start with something very small, then you can use ideas for bead weaving, because on all these “looms” you can also weave with threads:

I would also like to say something about weaving on cardboard. It is usually woven by stretching threads onto a rectangular piece of cardboard with slots.

But once you turn on your imagination, you begin to understand that the possibilities of the cardboard “machine” are almost limitless:
More creative ideas:
Or even like this (cheap, cheerful and develops fine motor skills for the child):
After practicing fine motor skills, you can move on to more serious physical activity:
Well, if you really don’t have anything at hand, then attach one end of the base to your belt, and the other to your own legs - a very ancient and respected method, by the way.

GOST current sandpaper

Do you think it’s impossible to do anything meaningful with things like this?
Yes, don't expect your first works to look like this:
But, with a little experience, you can do simple and stylish things:

Working principle of table loom

The design of the weaving machine involves laying threads using a special threader. The amount of yarn that enters the installation can reach 2-4 kg. Thus, you can work on the STB loom for a long time without stopping.

This installation is a combination of shafts. This is a roller-beam for winding thread on it and a roller for the finished fabric. The threads are made through holes - healds. The healds are connected to each other by a braid that is thrown over the heald rollers at the top and bottom. There are also two rollers, which are necessary when exiting the main part and the finished product, respectively.

The type of mechanism on the devices represents the formation of a pharynx. There are 3 types of mechanism:

cam type;
carriage;
jacquard.

If simple patterns are intended to be produced, then the cam type is used. The cams also make it easy to move from pattern to pattern. The jacquard mechanism provides wide installation possibilities.

Depending on the filling width, the machines are divided into wide (from 25 m) and narrow (22 m). If there is a multi-color weft addition, it becomes possible to introduce threads of different textures and densities.

Main stages of work:

Yawning.
The process of inserting the weft into the shed.
Surf the duck to the edge of the product.
The mechanism of movement of the product.
The process of lowering the web from the warp shaft.

Children's loom

A children's loom will allow you to make your own handbag, rug, belt or bracelets from bright threads. Create fashionable items with your own hands with a children's loom from Creative!

Why this particular loom?

The children's loom is convenient. With its help, even a child can create a useful and fashionable item. Using the machine is very simple. This is a machine for classic hand weaving , one of the simplest designs.
The set includes many professional tools: a shuttle, a roller, a carding comb and much more. With a children's loom, every girl will feel like a real designer, and will also become familiar with folk needlework - weaving. Rustic-style rugs, rugs, chair covers or stool covers look very nice.
Clear and beautiful instructions included with the set will make use even more interesting and accessible. It is recommended to do everything exactly step by step so that the woven item turns out beautiful and of high quality.

Children's loom. What is included

1 wooden loom for children (25.3x31.5 cm)
1 wooden roller (33 cm)
1 wooden shuttle
1 wooden comb
1 plastic needle
Polyester based yarn 3 colors (60 m)
Wool yarn (60 m)
Detailed instructions for using the loom

Handbag size: 25×24 cm.

Tools and materials

Loom

- This is a device for making fabrics on which yarn is stretched. The yarn placed along the loom is called the "warp". The yarn laid across the warp threads is called “weft”.

Shuttle

- This is a wooden tool on which the weft yarn is wound and laid through the warp.

Roller

- This is a wooden block with slots that is placed between the threads of the warp yarn. It turns and the strands of yarn are raised and then lowered, allowing the shuttle to easily pass over and under the strands. Thanks to the roller, the machine works like a professional.

Carding comb

(comber) is needed to compact the rows of fabric.

Sewing needle

needed for sewing individual parts of a handbag. A plastic needle is also used to insert the weft thread instead of the shuttle when there is no longer enough space for it.

Wool yarn

- This is the main yarn that is stretched longitudinally on the machine.

Polyester based yarn

- This is the weft yarn laid through the warp.

Main yarn

- the basis of any fabric. The warp yarn threads are drawn longitudinally through slits on the loom frame. You need to start weaving any item by pulling the main yarn on the loom. The number of threads of yarn determines the width of the future fabric. The more rows, the wider the fabric; the fewer, the narrower it is.

Weft yarn

- These are strands of yarn that are laid transversely through the warp yarn. It is this that determines the type of fabric being made. To make the work easier, the weft yarn is inserted using a shuttle. The rows are pressed against each other using a carder.

Precautionary measures

It is recommended to work under adult supervision.
The set contains small parts. Not intended for children under three years of age.
Before use, please read these instructions carefully and use the explanations and illustrations provided as supporting materials. To achieve the desired result, follow the instructions step by step in the order given.
Do not put the contents of this kit in your mouth. Do not swallow. Keep this kit and its contents out of the reach of children under 3 years of age.
For comfortable operation, install the machine on a flat, stable surface.

Source: https://101slon.ru/products/tkatskii-stanok-detskii

Self-production of the machine

Many people are faced with the task of how to make a loom? Moreover, to spend less materials. So how to make a loom with your own hands? First of all, you need to adhere to the manufacturing scheme, which contains successive steps:

A quadrangular frame is selected.
Round openings are made in two slats.
Slats with the smallest circumference are placed in the openings made at the ends of the bar and secured with wedge parts.
There are grooves in the middle part of the side bar to accommodate the comb.
The equipment has a solid bottom for stable standing.
Nails are driven into the nearest round block at a distance of 5 mm to tighten the threads.
At the rear of the installation, a rail is used to wind excess fabric.

The comb can be made from thick plywood. Its height reaches 15 cm. The length of the comb should be greater than the distance between the frames, which are located on the side. The number of nails driven in must be divided by two to obtain the number of teeth. Select the height of the teeth to be approximately 70-100 mm, and the width 5-7 mm. The interdental space is 5 mm.

Making a loom with your own hands

Since our rug is decorative, I used a small piece of cardboard measuring 12x15 cm.

First of all, it is necessary to apply markings on the cardboard along which we will make cuts.

We mark our future machine as follows: on both sides of the cardboard we make marks with a pencil every centimeter to a depth of 0.5-1 cm.

In order for the markings, and subsequently the mat, to turn out even, we draw parallel lines along the marks that we made every centimeter. The lines should run parallel to the unmarked side.

Next, we make cuts according to our markings to the depth we need on both sides of the cardboard.

We take our yarn and make the base. Instead of the yarn that you will use for the rug, you can use decorative ribbons, ordinary threads and other materials.

We insert the yarn into the cut on the cardboard, as shown in the photo. Leave a small tip of yarn (two centimeters is enough) on the wrong side of the cardboard.

We thread the yarn through the cuts using the “snake” principle. On one side of the cardboard we tie the cutouts.

Wrong side

On the reverse side we create lines. This side will be the front side, on which our rug will be located.

Front side

Making a simple weaving device

You can also make a simple mini-device at home, which will serve as a play device for children, and also teach them how to weave. A children's loom will be useful for teaching children the ancient art of weaving. Using such a simple loom, you can make a compact rug that will be useful at home.

Moreover, this device does not require special devices. All you need is thick cardboard, scissors, a hook, a pencil, a fork and yarn. Instead of cardboard, you can use old plywood, chipboard or other rigid base.

The loom operates by threading threads into slits and then weaving. The yarn is made into a cut, and its end is located on the wrong side. Threading the yarn should be done in the form of a snake. The end result is tying the resulting cutouts. On the other side, stripes of threads are also made. One side will be the front side and the other side will be the back side. The front is a completed canvas.

You have to pull the threads smoothly so as not to bend the cardboard. You can use a larger needle for convenience. The number of threads must correspond to the edge being an edge and the transition from row to another row to be made. You can move the threads close to each other using a fork. So, such a loom for children will help you teach your child spinning skills without putting in a lot of effort.

You can tell children how the first looms were spun, and how a homemade device works. After all, getting into weaving is a very interesting activity.

It is difficult to find a needlewoman who would not like to try her hand at weaving at least once, but, alas, not everyone can afford to buy a weaving loom. There is an exit!

Making a machine at home seems to many to be too labor-intensive and time-consuming. We hasten to dispel your doubts and offer a simple and affordable way to make a loom with your own hands.

You will need:

twine or cotton thread
wooden picture frame without a backdrop (the width of the product will depend on its size)
wooden slats (a long wooden dowel, which can be purchased at hardware stores, is best; its length should be no less than the width of the frame)
scissors

Step 1

Woven fabric, as you know, consists of warp threads (running lengthwise) and weft threads (running across them). We will use twine as warp threads. Even if you use some other thread, the main thing to remember is that the warp thread should be strong, not too thick and not too thin.

Tie the end of the thread with a double knot to the lower left corner of the frame, then pass the ball through the frame, throw the thread over the top crossbar, and go down to the bottom.

Step 2

Your movements should resemble a figure eight: each time you go around the top or bottom crossbar, the ball should pass through the frame. Continue pulling the thread, making sure it is evenly and moderately tight, with no slack.

Step 3

The width of your final product depends on both the number of “loops” you create and the size of the frame. On average, you should make at least 10 and no more than 25 “loops”, the distance between them should be 1 cm. Keep in mind that the greater the distance between the threads, the easier it is to work, so it is better for beginners to start with a minimum number of “loops” and maximum distance between them.

When finished, secure the free end with a double knot.

Step 4

Look at your loom from the side - the threads should cross in the middle (if not, it means you didn't follow the figure eight when stretching).

Using a long wooden strip, we will divide the threads into two parts - insert it between the threads, exactly under the place where they cross, and then pull the strip to the top crossbar of the frame.

How to weave?

There are 3 rules to weave correctly .

1 rule

— You should always start and end so that the end of the thread is on the side of the fabric. NEVER leave the end of the thread sticking out in the fabric, bring it out either to the right or left edge.

Rule 2

– Using a needle, we thread the thread alternately, from above to below the stretched threads of the loom. And in the next, adjacent row of fabric, the thread is pulled vice versa from below - from above the working threads of the machine, as if in a checkerboard pattern.

Rule 3

— The rows need to be moved tightly towards each other each time.

You can start weaving not only from the bottom up, but in any order you want. For example, first create some kind of composition in the center, and then fill in the edges. The simplest pattern is waves or stripes of different colors. But I suggest you experiment and come up with different forms.

Personally, only after practice did I understand what to do and how to do it. And within one master class it is quite difficult to describe all possible techniques.

Well, I decided that I needed to start small, and decided to make a bracelet.