DIY macro lens. Creating a Macro Lens

Description

Visually, the attachment lens is a thin lens in a frame with a standard threaded lens mount, the same as for light filters.
The shape of the lenses is usually convex-concave, with the convex side away from the lens - this shape is preferable for short-focus wide-angle lenses, but there are flat-convex and macro lenses with an outer concave side - with this shape, spherical aberration is minimal, which is especially good for telephoto lenses. Attachment lenses are produced both by lens manufacturers, for example, Canon, Nikon, Sony, KMZ, LZOS, LOMO, and by third-party companies IPZ, Marumi, and many others.

Macro lens

used in photography for taking close-up photographs of small objects without the use of a specialized macro lens
(see Macro photography)
. Macro lenses work like a magnifying glass or reading glasses, bringing the image closer to the main lens.

The main advantage of this solution is the low price compared to a specialized macro lens, as well as the ability to take macro photography with a device with non-replaceable optics. However, the result is somewhat worse; the loss of sharpness at the edges of the image is especially noticeable.

Shooting through sunglasses

Surely this feature is known to many of our readers. Through several glasses of sunglasses superimposed on each other, some people manage to photograph even a solar eclipse, and one pair of glasses attached to the lens colors the photo in an interesting color. Beautiful clouds are especially impressive on a sunny day: the sun filter makes the cloudy sky more contrasty and dramatic. The result, of course, depends on the color of the glass and the type of filter in it.

The effect could be like this...

Or like this.

Which macro camera to choose from models with fixed optics

Do-It-Yourself Retlight
For amateur macro enthusiasts, it’s especially worth highlighting superzooms, which have great optical zoom capabilities and cost much less than cameras with interchangeable lenses - it’s not such a shame to damage them on hikes and trips. Let's look for a camera for macro photography among the popular camera models with a small matrix, a fixed lens and a strong optical zoom available on the Ukrainian market.

#1
Canon PowerShot SX410 IS from 3,788 UAH
Pseudo-mirror camera with 40x optical zoom and 80x ZoomPlus, wide-angle 24 mm lens, f/3.5–f/6.3 aperture, optical image stabilizer, 20.5 MP matrix, intelligent automatic mode Smart Auto and eco mode , saving battery charge when traveling. Lightweight and nice looking superzoom.

#2
Canon PowerShot SX40 HS from 3,599 UAH
A camera with a 12.1 MP sensor, 35x optical zoom, f/2.7–f/5.8 aperture, a rotating display, effective intelligent image stabilization depending on the shooting mode, and a separate focusing mode for macro photography.

#3
Nikon Coolpix L840 from 4,699 hryvnia
Camera with 38x zoom capability, focal length 22.5-855 mm, aperture f/3.0–f/6.5, optical image stabilizer, 16 MP matrix, rotating LCD display. Bonus: ISO up to 6400, which is double that of previous cameras. Reviews praise macro, including video shooting.

#4
Canon PowerShot SX530 HS from 5,650 hryvnia
The model is characterized by a 24 mm wide-angle lens, 50x optical zoom, f/3.4–f/6.5 aperture, 16 MP matrix. Camera with built-in flash, wireless Wi-Fi and NFC, rotating display. This is a compact for all occasions, including macro cases.

#5
Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ72 from 6,999 UAH
The next camera with a macro mode has a lens with a focal length of 20-1200 mm in 35 mm film equivalent. A smaller minimum focal length than other superzooms in this case plays into the hands of those who shoot static macro. The zoom here is 60x, the aperture is f/2.8–f/5.9, there is an image stabilizer, the matrix resolution is 16.1 MP. There is both a built-in flash and a hot shoe for an external one.

#6
Canon PowerShot SX60 HS from 13,543 hryvnia
Superzoom 65x, focal length range 21-1365 mm, aperture f/3.4–f/6.5, 16.1 MP matrix and good quality rotating display allow you to implement macro photography mode in the camera with both distant objects and and photographing almost right next to the bug/flower/whatever you like.

#7 Nikon Coolpix L320 from 3406 hryvnia

Another superzoom from Nikon with 24x optical zoom, minimum shooting distance of 1 cm, f/3.1–f/5.9 aperture, 16 MP matrix, dual image stabilizer and Wi-Fi support. It has proven itself well in amateur macro photography.

#8
Sony DSC-HX60 from 8,299 hryvnia
Compact from Sony with a 20.4 MP sensor and light sensitivity up to 12,800 ISO, 30x zoom, f/3.5–f/6.3 aperture, image stabilizer, macro mode. Not an expert in macro, but suitable for country experiments.

Compared to more expensive optics, superzooms are inferior in many ways, including often lacking subject sharpness in macro photographs. But they have great advantages in the form of lower cost and multiple approximations. If you have a small budget and are a beginner makrushka, start with a pseudo-DSLR camera or a compact with a macro mode.

We hope that the guide will help you in the difficult choice of which camera to buy for macro photography.

Your Price.UA

ISO

DIY chromakey

With Flash: In macro photography, the use of flash is very tied to ISO. The flash cannot by default provide enough light when shooting macro (since you are using a narrow aperture). Shooting with flash at full power is also a bad idea. It is better to use the flash at 1/4 power so that it recharges faster between shots. This is where ISO comes in handy. Set your flash to 1/4 power, and set your ISO to get a good exposure of the leaf, then return the flash to Auto (TTL). Now you know it will fire at 1/4 power for shots like this. The ISO value will typically be between 100 and 800 for macro photography with flash.

No flash: You need to work with a fast shutter speed to avoid motion blur and a narrow aperture to get enough depth of field. If you don't have a flash, your only option for capturing bright enough photos is to increase your ISO. For macro photography, it's quite common to use an ISO in the range of 800 to 3200. I recommend using Auto ISO. Set the minimum shutter speed to 1/400 second, and the minimum ISO value to 100 in Auto ISO mode (it is not possible to set the minimum shutter speed and ISO when auto-adjusting them on all cameras). This will keep your shutter speed fast enough for sharp photos while keeping your ISO at a reasonable value without wasting your mental energy on calculations.

Microscope made using a drop of water

This is perhaps the simplest life hack in terms of the required materials: you need water and... All. There is no need to be afraid, nothing will happen to the camera, especially since the Huawei P8 lite doesn’t care about this experiment - the smartphone’s lens is completely under the transparent plastic that covers the back panel of the case.

To get the microscope effect, you need to carefully place a drop of water on the smartphone lens. This is most conveniently done with the opposite end of a ballpoint pen refill. The “microscope” will stick to the lens thanks to the surface tension of water. Once you’ve made a drop, turn your smartphone over and shoot, waiting until it slides a little and creates the desired effect.

This is what the text looks like during normal shooting.

And like this - from the same distance, but with a drop of water on the lens.

Framing and focusing

Large format cameras, scale and rangefinder cameras

• Frosted glass placed in the plane of a photographic film or photographic plate is practically the only way to correctly determine the boundaries of the frame, assess the depth of field of the imaged space, and correctly focus.
• Attachment lenses or extension rings may be accompanied by a table or nomogram that allows you to correctly focus the lens.

Single Lens Reflex Cameras

Nice things with your own hands

"MS Volna-9 Macro" 2.8/50 - Soviet lens for macro photography

A single-lens reflex camera is most convenient for macro photography - a direct, parallax-free image of the subject created on the focusing screen is observed in the viewfinder - accurate focusing is possible (especially in manual mode), correct assessment of the depth of field of the imaged space, and correct framing.

Digital cameras

Digital cameras allow you to control the process of macro photography on the display or in the electronic viewfinder of a pseudo-mirror digital camera.

Focusing

Focusing in macro photography is not an easy task. The slightest movement of the camera or subject leads to loss of focus, and the depth of field at macro distances leaves you no room for error.

It will be better if you learn to focus manually, since autofocus in macro photography can behave unpredictably and often fails to provide sufficient accuracy.

Serious macro photographers use a stable tripod and special focusing rails on which the camera itself can move smoothly forward or backward. This focusing method is the most accurate and reliable, but requires certain investments and appropriate skill. However, even if you are just holding the camera in your hands, you can first roughly focus the lens, and then achieve precise focus by moving the camera slightly.

Setting up the camera for macro photography

Unlike portrait photography, where photographers often try to blur the background, macro photography is very difficult to achieve the desired depth of field.

If you imagine what parameters depth of field depends on, then you can already imagine this problem. The closer the camera is to the subject, the more the background is blurred. On the one hand, this is good, since it is possible to separate a semantic object from an insignificant environment. However, in macro photography, especially with cameras with a large physical sensor size, the depth of field is very often millimeters, and even tiny insects turn out mostly out of focus!

The situation is even worse if you like to take macro photographs of shy insects - it is simply impossible to get close to a butterfly or a bumblebee - your macro photography subject will easily flap its wings and very quickly rush out of the frame and then catch up with it all day long!

It would seem that there is a way out - use a long-focus lens or the maximum zoom ratio, while closing the lens aperture as much as possible to increase the depth of field. BUT! A closed aperture forces you to lengthen the shutter speed and raise the ISO. Both have a negative impact on the final result - either a blurred image due to movement (especially with a long lens), or a high level of noise.

Even when taking macro photographs of flowers and other plants with a long shutter speed from a tripod, a slight breeze leads to blurring of the microphotograph.

You only need to focus in manual mode, since often the autofocus simply has nothing to “catch onto” - the tiny eyes and thin legs of insects are too small for it. Autofocus will take a long time to focus, producing a buzzing noise that may scare off your macro model. When taking macro photography from a very close distance, it is much more convenient and faster not to control the focus at all - it is enough to set the focus approximately, and “catch” the exact focus by moving the camera away or moving closer to the subject. Don't forget to freeze in this position and release the shutter smoothly.

When taking macro photographs of insects, always turn on the burst mode - they are sometimes so fast that only the “machine-gun rate of fire” of your camera can catch a dragonfly in flight.

So, the main secret of macro photography: manual focusing, fast shutter speed and closed aperture. And the lack of light can be compensated with a flash.

Macro rings and macro lenses

There are relatively inexpensive alternatives to full-fledged macro lenses. Amateur photographers who want to save money on optics can resort to special macro rings or macro lenses, which allow you to temporarily modify any lens you have, turning it into something like a macro lens. In both cases, you lose the ability to focus to infinity, since the entire range of focusing distances of your lens will be shifted towards the side closest to you, but the maximum shooting zoom will be proportionally increased.

Macro rings or extension rings are hollow tubes of a certain length that are installed between the camera body and the lens. By moving the lens away from the sensor, the rings allow it to focus closer than intended by its design. The main advantage of extension rings (after their low cost) is the absence of any optical elements in them - there is just air inside the ring - and therefore the use of rings has virtually no effect on image quality.

Which rings to choose? The best option is the Kenko Automatic Extension Tube Set DG, consisting of three rings - 12, 20 and 36 mm. There are versions for both Nikon and Canon. The good thing about the Kenko set is that the rings fully preserve the connection between the camera and the lens, ensuring full operation of the exposure meter, autofocus, aperture and other systems. Canon produces its own macro rings, but they are no better in quality than Kenko rings, and are noticeably more expensive. Nikon does not currently produce its own extension rings.

Macro lenses or attachment lenses screw onto the front of the lens using filter threads and act like a magnifying glass. Unlike macro rings, attachment lenses have a negative impact on image quality, so you should avoid cheap models that have a single optical element, preferring attachments with a more complex design designed to minimize optical aberrations. The gold standard is Canon 500D (+2 dioptres), Canon 250D (+4 dioptres) and, unfortunately, discontinued Nikon 5T (+1.5 dioptres) and Nikon 6T (+2.9 dioptres).

I note that rings and attachments can be useful not only from the point of view of economy, but also in those cases when you travel light and are not inclined to take an extra lens with you specifically for macro photography, but at the same time you do not want to remain completely unarmed if you suddenly need An interesting macro-plot will suddenly appear. In short, for occasional macro photography, macro rings and macro lenses are a very reasonable solution.

Great and versatile external flashes

It's no secret that many novice photographers find shooting with an on-camera flash, and even more so with an off-camera flash, inconvenient. Instead, some use the built-in flash for family photos or photographing objects, with all the ensuing consequences of such lighting. Others go so far as to start constructing lighting installations from halogen spotlights purchased at a hardware store. Unfortunately, each of these options has significant drawbacks. The built-in flash is the simplest solution, but at the same time it gives the most unnatural pictures, because it deprives objects of volume and makes them flat. This is very bad for portrait photography, and for most other genres. Floodlights and other constant light sources can generate significant amounts of heat and quickly become uncomfortable and dangerous. They're also not bright enough to support fast shutter speed photography, and they don't look professional at all! In this tutorial you'll see how I use some simple external flashes equipped with a hot shoe, wireless triggers and a kitchen table to create beautiful lighting for product photography.

Telephoto lens from binoculars

The easiest way to photograph distant objects with a smartphone is to attach the eyepiece of a binocular, monocle or telescope to the camera lens. For the experiment, we took 8x21 binoculars. It took a bit of fiddling to line up one of its rear lenses with the lens of the Huawei P8 lite camera (again, our makeshift “tripod” helped a lot with this, allowing one person to hold the whole thing), but the result was worth it: we were able to take photos with a significant zoom. In the resulting photographs, you can make out the details of the object, and if you get the hang of it, a good result will be guaranteed.

A photo taken without binoculars.

The same story, but filmed using our “telescope”.

Let's get started with macro photography

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• 04/22/2014 21:39 — John Tsang is a photographer, representative of Asia in our regular column, and his macro selection of insects at gunpoint.”>Macro world photographer John Tsang
• 04/17/2014 20:24 — Agata Eggi is a fairly experienced macro photographer who became interested in shooting in this direction in 2010.”>Macroculture from photographer Agata Eggi
• 04/14/2014 20:46 — Dean Morley is an English photographer who is interested in macro photography.”>A selection of macro photographs from Dean Morley
• 02/27/2014 21:47 — Shannon Chan is a female photographer from Japan who is interested in macro photography.”>A selection of macros from photographer Shannon Chan
• 02/26/2014 21:14 — Bellat Chitchi is a photographer with oriental roots who is fond of macro-style photography.”>A lot of macro from Bellat Chitchi

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Lighting

Both natural and artificial light are suitable for macro photography. However, it is necessary to understand that a macro photographer who shoots in natural light is constantly faced with a lack of light, which, firstly, confines him to a tripod, and secondly, makes it impossible to work with moving objects.

Using flashes as the main light source frees up our hands somewhat. A good solution for photographing insects are systems consisting of two small flashes, which are attached directly to the lens on both sides using a special clamp (examples: Nikon R1, Canon MT-24EX). Ring flashes like the Canon MR-14EX II are less powerful but provide softer, more even illumination.

If you do macro photography in a studio setting, you can use full-fledged studio flashes. This will give you absolute control over the light, but unfortunately, due to the bulk of the equipment, this approach is completely unacceptable in nature.

The best camera for macro photography

You should also pay attention to the lens. Ideally there should be a lens with a wide focal length

A good macro camera should come with such a lens. To minimize distortion, you need to place the lens at the maximum distance from the subject.

A digital camera with good macro photography must have a good program for turning on the macro mode. Basically, macro mode is triggered by a dial selector.

Despite the many advantages of a digital camera, it is better to take macro photography with a SLR film camera, even better if it is not electronic, but mechanical. Only a mirror viewfinder can perfectly assess the focus of the lens and position the frame. Also, a film camera at short shutter speeds can eliminate distortion resulting from hand shake. In addition, when shooting with such a camera, it is possible to use special rings that are installed between the lens and the camera lock.

Related materials:

• 16/05/2012 14:09 — Pentax SMC FA 645 120 mm f/4 Macro is a long-focus macro lens with a fixed focal length for medium format SLR cameras of the systems...”>Pentax SMC FA 645 120 mm f/ 4 Macro lens
• 16/05/2012 14:09 — Sigma APO Macro 180mm f2.8 EX DG OS HSM is the fastest 180 mm macro lens on the market today - all others have a maximum aperture only...">Sigma APO Macro 180 mm f/ 2.8 EX lens DG OS HSM
• 05/15/2012 11:56 — PENTAX presents a high-class lens, made in the tradition of the “star” series and designed for digital SLR cameras.”>Pentax SMC FA Macro 200mm f/4 ED (IF) lens
• 05/15/2012 11:55 — Pentax SMC D FA Macro 50mm f/2.8 is an excellent macro lens from Pentax, which is known for the highest quality of its fixed-focal optics.”>PENTAX SMC D FA Macro 50mm f/2.8 lens
• 05/12/2012 18:32 - When used with DSLR cameras, the AT-X M35 PRO DX lens provides the same field of view as 52mm. Short focusing distance ...">Lens Tokina AT-X M35 PRO DX AF 35 mm f/2.8 Nikon

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• 12/13/2011 12:24 — I’ll start with a little background. In one of the Macroclub forum threads, a question was asked about how best to remove droplets - but not hanging on grass leaves...">Fantastic droplets.
• 12/12/2011 12:22 — By deciding to study the subject in detail, you will essentially discover a new world for yourself. The camera, “amplifying” it, will help to capture the new world in its entirety...”>Macro photography “at hand”.

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How to choose a camera for macro photography

#1 Camera

Theoretically, the larger the matrix size, the better: many guides advise taking a full-frame camera for macro. But don’t discount crops: it’s not surprising that sometimes the result of a macro shot with a camera with a small sensor can surpass a full frame. Some photographers buy a compact in addition to professional equipment for shooting in certain modes, including macro.

However, no matter what you choose - DSLR or mirrorless, full-frame or not, you can’t go wrong, since what camera to buy for macro photography is not the main thing here!

№2 Lens

The main thing in macro photography is the lens, because, in fact, the degree of approximation of the object depends on it.

Between lenses with fixed and variable focal lengths, it is worth giving preference to the first - due to the design features, the prime lens is faster.

• For amateur macro photography, it would seem that lenses with the shortest possible focusing distance are best suited, but there is a “but” here: with a lens that can be used to shoot close to the object, it is convenient to photograph only static images. The living creature will fly away, run away, or otherwise prevent you from taking a photo if you bring the camera close to its nose. Plus, lenses with longer focusing distances offer more photography options.
• A wide-angle macro lens (with short focus) is optimal for close-up shooting of stationary details and subject photography. For anything movable, that is, macro photography of wildlife, a long-focus lens is better. But, if you really want both, it won’t be a mistake to purchase a macro zoom lens.

No. 3 Display

If your choice is leaning towards a DSLR camera, it is desirable that it supports Live View mode - using the screen as a viewfinder.

It’s great if the camera has a rotating display - this will help avoid awkward positions when taking macro photography.

№4 Accessories

Macro photography requires a flash and a tripod, especially if you're shooting indoors.

For amateur macro photography, a built-in flash will be sufficient; a good option is a ring flash located around the circumference of the lens. Thanks to this design, there will be no shadow from the lens or other parts of the camera in the photo. Many compacts have this ring built-in, but can also be purchased and installed separately on the lens.

To practice macro photography professionally in a studio, in addition to a camera with a flash, you will need a subject table, light, reflectors, and diffusers, but that’s a different story.

How to shoot macro without special optics

If the desire to photograph spider bugs has not left you for several days, and finances do not favor purchasing an expensive macro lens, do not worry, there is a way out!

Smart people figured out a long time ago how to build one with their own hands from two lenses, making it possible to shoot decent macro.

So, we need a long-focal lens, for example, a Canon 55-250 mm and a portrait lens, ideally a prime lens, for example, a fifty-kopeck lens (50 mm) of the same brand, but if there is no such thing, we can experiment with a whale.

We install, as usual, a Canon 55-250 mm on the camera, and attach a portrait lens turned backwards to it, voila, the design is ready for shooting.

Of course, this method is very inconvenient, since nature did not reward us with a third hand. But this problem can be solved with the purchase of a double-sided reversible ring, which allows us to connect our pancakes.

Macrolide antibiotics classification

Modern macrolides are similar in structure to their parent, erythromycin, the differences appear only in the nature of the side chains and the number of carbon atoms (14, 15 and 16). The side chains determine activity against Pseudomonas aeruginosa. The basis of the chemical structure of macrolides is the macrocyclic lactone ring.

Macrolides are classified according to the method of preparation and the chemical structural basis.

Method of obtaining

In the first case, they are divided into synthetic, natural and prodrugs (erythromycin esters, oleandomycin salts, etc.). Prodrugs have a modified structure compared to the drug, but in the body, under the influence of enzymes, they are converted into the same active drug, which has a characteristic pharmacological effect.

Prodrugs have improved taste and high bioavailability. They are resistant to changes in acidity.

Chemical structural basis

Classification involves dividing macrolides into 3 groups:

*ex. - Natural. **sex. - Semi-synthetic.

It is worth noting that azithromycin is an azalide because its ring contains a nitrogen atom.

Features of the structure of each macro. affect activity indicators, drug interactions with other drugs, pharmacokinetic properties, tolerability, etc. The mechanisms of influence on microbiocenosis of the presented pharmacological agents are identical.

Basic tips for photographing insects using the stacking technique

Experiment with Backgrounds As you become more experienced with stacking techniques, you can try using colored gels or cardboard to really bring your photos to life with interesting lighting and backgrounds.

Use a dedicated stacking program A dedicated stacking program like Helicon Focus will allow you to stack your source files, so when it comes to post-processing you have a lot of options. Experiment with combining files, work with JPEGs before moving directly to the sources.

In order to stitch images, the Helicon Focus Pro program is used.

Keep Insects Cool After death, insects' bodies decompose extremely quickly, so it's best to photograph them while they're alive - but you need to keep them from moving. For filming, it is best to lower their body temperature so that they begin to fall asleep and their movements slow down. How long to keep insects in the refrigerator (or freezer) depends on their size and weight. Place them in a plastic container and check every 1-5 minutes to see how much their movements have slowed down.

Macro Photography Equipment Used

Sony Alpha 7R II Since stacking requires a lot of cropping, a camera with more megapixels will give you a great opportunity to do this and still produce large, printable files. The full-frame Alpha 7R II can produce very clear and detailed images with the right lens.

Macro lens When using a lens, it is almost impossible to make subtle shifts in focus. A macro rail will give you the ability to move your camera very short distances, giving you the ability to take smooth focus shots that are good for stacking.

Flashes Flashes allow you to use small apertures and low ISO settings. A low ISO will give you less noise and more room to adjust colors and exposure in post-processing. Also, you need the same lighting in all photos in order to combine them later, which is not always possible with natural light.

Helicon Focus Pro Although you can stitch photos together in another program, I highly recommend you use this one because it allows you to create a source file from the final stack, giving you more editing options.

The author of the article is Mikael Buck, a London-based editorial and commercial photographer. He worked for over ten years as a photojournalist for publications such as TImes, Mail on Sunday and The Metro. Currently works on a commission basis for British national publications, high-profile companies and major brands.

Results

We have compiled this list of life hacks for those who are already tired of the “Auto” mode, because smartphone owners almost always use it. And, despite the fact that the Huawei P8 lite itself takes good photographs, which we talked about in a separate review of the gadget’s camera. However, we had fun doing these experiments in the company of a good gadget. After all, a creative approach is always good. Try it and you might come up with some other ways to decorate the frame using scrap materials. We wish you successful and enjoyable filming!

Tripod for macro photography

Joby Flexible Macro Tripod

When taking macro photography with flash, a tripod is generally not needed. Sometimes it even interferes with the pursuit of the plot :o)

However, when photographing plants or insects from an ambush, using a tripod and manual focusing, you are guaranteed to get sharp shots.

Ambush shooting is not very difficult, the key here is patience. Focus in advance and wait for your macro photo model to appear in the right place. Using continuous shooting, you can take a macro photo of an insect in flight relatively easily. At the same time, a tripod will save you from accidentally moving the camera, as a result of which you will get sharpness not where you wanted.

Beginning photographers often buy small (tabletop) tripods and, unfortunately, quickly become disappointed in them. They are of little use for ordinary photography, but if you take such a mini-tripod for macro photography of low-lying objects, it will help you out a lot. By using the camera's LCD display (especially if it's rotating) in conjunction with the LiveView function, which makes a DSLR camera look like a point-and-shoot camera with a large matrix, you don't have to flatten yourself on the ground to take a macro portrait from the model's eye level: o ) However, not all small tripods are so useless for regular photography - click on the photo just above this paragraph and see for yourself!

Related materials:

• 08/27/2014 21:27 — Jack Trump is a photographer from England and his macro selection of insects at gunpoint.”>A selection of macro photographs by Jack Trump
• 05/08/2014 21:34 — Atsje Bosma, a girl photographer from the Netherlands, presents us with her macro selection.”>Wonderful macro selection of Atsje Bosma
• 07/31/2014 21:22 — Siny Jan - a photographer from Asia and his wonderful macro selection.”>Small macro collection from Siny Jan
• 07/21/2014 21:19 — Mariluz Picado is an aspiring Spanish macro photographer.”>Macro background of the aspiring photographer Mariluz Picado
• 07/03/2014 20:52 — John Dale - photographer from England and his macro work.”>Macro work by photographer John Dale

New articles:

• 22/11/2011 11:23 — Comparative test of macro lenses AF-S Nikkor 105/2.8G IF-ED VR, Sigma AF 105/2.8 EX DG and Tokina AF 100/2.8 AT-X Pro D. »>Comparative test of 3 macro lenses Nikkor, Sigma and Tokina
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Making a homemade snoot

External on-camera flashes have a fairly large angle of light propagation. Sometimes this is necessary, but today I want to limit the spread of light, so I made a snoot out of black paper. The snoot is a tube and is used to create a narrow beam of light. This simple snoot can then be folded and reused.

Most hot shoe flashes don't have a modeling light function, so you won't be able to see where the light will fall. Therefore, you will need to take several test shots and clarify the position of the flashes. One trick I use is to stand in the subject's shoes, if possible, and see where the flashes are aimed before taking the shot.

Flowers are not my specialty. In fact, while preparing for the lesson, I took pictures of flowers around the house. After the first few frames for this tutorial, all I could say was, "Yes, it's a flower."

Flash diffuser

A classic of the genre - a homemade flash diffuser made from improvised means. The diffuser gives softer light, eliminates the unhealthy shine of faces in the frame and too harsh shadows. Building a diffuser is very simple, and there are many ways to make such a flash attachment. Even a piece of paper attached to a flash with an elastic band or tape can already be called a diffuser. A coffee or yogurt cup, instant noodle tray, plastic shampoo bottle, table tennis ball, white cloth or any other translucent white material are ideal. The mounting method depends on the flash and the manufacturability of the entire structure. The diffuser can be disposable, or you can try and design a durable accessory with a durable frame and reliable fastening to the flash head.

The simplest table tennis ball diffuser

Instant noodle container as a diffuser

A cigarette pack easily turns into a diffuser

Here it is worth talking about the so-called honeycombs. An excellent result can be obtained using ordinary cocktail straws, preferably black. The light pulse of the flash, passing through such cells, acquires a clear direction and is ideal for shooting portraits in a dark room. In this case, the light turns out to be softer, and the resulting spot has a small diameter, just sufficient to illuminate the face in the frame.

Honeycomb made from cocktail tubes

Constructing a honeycomb is not difficult - a rectangular box is made from cardboard, which is tightly filled with cocktail straws. Long tubes should be trimmed, but cuttings that are too short will not work. The optimal length of the tubes is 5 cm. The shorter the tubes, the brighter and larger the light spot will be and the larger the area of ​​illumination of the subject will be.

No studio No problem

Any available space, such as a piece of plywood on a sawhorse, can be used successfully. Here I use my kitchen to photograph flowers. I installed two posts and a crossbar to secure the background. If you don't have extra stands, you can mount the backdrop directly to the wall, but this may limit the use of backlighting. You can use any background. You can purchase background paper from an art store, or use a fabric of your choice. For a more dramatic photo, I would recommend using a black fabric. If you want to use glitter fabric, please do so. But I recommend using a non-shine fabric to avoid reflections where it is not needed.

Note translator: the best fabric for the background is natural (not synthetic) black velvet.