Do-it-yourself gas stove: a selection of the best homemade products

Boris Che Guevara
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Boris Che Guevara October 4, 2018

I am an avid hiker and know from experience that sometimes when camping you need a small gas stove. And now I’ll tell you how I make tiles using improvised materials.

Addendum 2

Sometimes workers complain that the burner is not working or is not working properly.
Only working designs are posted here, no theoretical ones. This means that they did not notice or did not understand the principle of operation of the burners. Now I’ll try to explain using a mini-burner as an example. To do this, I will give a simplified diagram of this particular design. 1. Make sure that the incoming gas pressure is within the acceptable range of 0.2-4 kg/cm2. And the most working range is from 0.5 to 2.5 kg/cm2. And the diameter of the nozzle hole is 0.12 +/-0.02 mm. 2. The air intake holes are not closed. 3. In the picture. The diameter of the tube with the supplied gas-air mixture is 3.5 mm. And the central hole in the divider has a diameter of 3 mm. That is, 0.5 mm less. Therefore, part of the flow of the gas-air mixture diverges to the sides into small holes. The flow rate through these holes is less than the main flow. These small holes are precisely designed to ignite the main flow. And due to the low speed of the gas-air mixture, they burn stably and do not allow the flame of the main flow to be blown away. This is true for all burners of the type on this page with flame spreaders. 4. Based on the above, check whether there is still a 2mm gap between both parts of the burner head. If manufactured correctly according to the drawings, this gap will exist. Otherwise, you will observe only the central torch, without the side lights, which is easily blown away when the pressure of the gas entering the nozzle increases.

On the left is a non-working burner. On the right is how it should be. 5. And a few words about the position of the nozzle. The cut of the capillary from which the gas comes out must be positioned while the burner is running in the area opposite the air intake holes, or before these holes. And, of course, the tube with the capillary should not block the air holes.

Checking the operation of the stove

First, it is important to check the tightness of all connections. To do this, you will need a regular soap solution, which is applied to the connections to check their reliability and the absence of gas leaks. If a leak is detected, it is recommended to tighten the clamps on the hose and replace the gaskets on the gearbox and recheck.

Now you can check the operation of the stove itself. If the burners light up easily, and the flame has a bluish tint without so-called yellow tongues, burns with good intensity and evenly, then we can confidently say that everything was done correctly.

Making a boiler

From all of the above it follows that gas generator-type boilers are considered the most economical and high-quality elements of the heating system.

The main problem in purchasing and using such a boiler is the cost of this product. For example, the simplest model of such a boiler, which is manufactured by domestic companies, costs about $1,000.

If you choose imported manufacturers and improved models of such boilers, the price can increase 5 times. It follows from this that gas generator boilers cannot be called publicly available. But there is a more economical option for purchasing such a boiler. This method is a wood-burning boiler, made with your own hands. To make such a boiler, you need to use special drawings that are developed and posted on the Internet by craftsmen.

Gas-generating boilers developed by folk craftsmen have not only a low manufacturing price, but also other positive aspects. The use of a homemade boiler, manufactured according to ready-made drawings, provides for a significantly longer operating time of the boiler on one load of fuel into the combustion chamber. Due to the fact that in factory boilers, special nozzles are installed under the combustion chamber, through which air is supplied, pumped by forced systems, the combustion process of solid fuel is almost doubled. In addition, the direct dependence of such a boiler on the electrical network ensures that the system operates correctly only when the boiler is connected to the network. Homemade boilers are devoid of such elements, which allows them to work better and longer.

Some homemade boilers are equipped with two solid fuel combustion chambers. This allows the fuel to be burned in a consistent manner. When one chamber lights up, the fire in the other chamber automatically goes out. This helps achieve the highest efficiency with maximum fuel burning time in the boiler. Some design features of homemade boilers make it quite easy to control the process of fuel combustion in the boiler. This is achieved by correctly positioning the grates under the fuel bunker.

Almost all homemade boilers, drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet, burn all contaminated particles, such as essential oils, various resins and alcohol. This became possible due to the fact that in such boilers there is a separate zone of additional combustion. Contaminated air from the combustion chamber enters this zone. It is this air that contains polluted particles that are burned separately. It follows from this that a minimum amount of harmful particles enters the atmosphere, which can enter the heated room through the cracks and pores of the building material.

Solid fuel boiler drawing

A homemade wood-burning boiler is intended not only for the use of wood fuel. In such boilers you can use sawdust, peat briquettes or coal as fuel.

The use of such fuel materials involves the appearance of slag, which must be removed. This is necessary for the combustion process to occur correctly. In order to perform screwing, the boilers are equipped with a special hole under the combustion chamber. It is through this hole that you can insert a poker and destroy the slag crust. This hole is closed with a small door, which blocks the flow of excess air into the combustion chamber.

Drawings of homemade boilers are developed on the basis of finished factory products. The main difference is considered to be the changes made in design and production terms. The positive side of such boilers is the ability to heat a larger amount of air coolant with the same volume of the combustion chamber.

As practice shows, using air as a coolant allows you to create a more comfortable microclimate in a heated room. When using such a coolant, you can heat the air in the room in a short time. In addition, heat losses in such a heating system are minimal. Do not forget about the significant savings in money that must be spent on purchasing a special coolant. In addition, complete tightness of the heating system with air coolant is not necessary.

Design features and principle of operation

Types of fuel for pyrolysis boilers and furnaces

The advantages of the equipment are high efficiency, the absence of complex automation, energy independence, and safety compared to gas and liquid fuel boilers. Pyrolysis units give a useful indicator of 90%. Long-burning stoves show a result of 75 - 80% due to the interaction of the housing with the water pipes of the heat exchanger.

The disadvantage is the high cost of finished units.

Wood fuel is placed in the firebox, which burns out quickly. A period of intense combustion (1 hour) is needed to heat the boiler and chimney. Then the furnace is loaded to the top with fuel, the door is closed tightly, and the gate valve is closed to minimize air supply and draft. Under these conditions, good combustion is ensured with the release of flammable gas.

A simple version of a potbelly stove made from a can

The simplest do-it-yourself potbelly stove can be made from an ordinary can. Of course, this design is not very durable, but it is quickly assembled, easy to build and releases a lot of heat into the surrounding space.

Actually, the entire manufacturing process consists of welding the legs, the grate and installing a chimney pipe. To get started you will need:

directly iron can;
welding machine;
chimney pipe;
wire for the grate;
tools;
drawing.

Sequence of actions on how to make a simple potbelly stove for the garage with your own hands from an old can or iron barrel:

Place the can in a horizontal position and, under the lid, mark a place for the blower in the shape of a sickle or a small rectangle.
In the bottom or wall of the tank, cut a hole for the smoke exhaust pipe according to its diameter.
To make a grate, bend the steel wire and pull it inside the can through the lid and carefully bend it so as to place the zigzag in the required position, while leaving space for it to be convenient to lay firewood.
Then weld the legs from tubes or corners and the chimney.
This stove can be equipped with several useful accessories. To make the generated heat less likely to evaporate, you can attach a reflector to the outside of the can. And if you weld handles on the sides, the tank will be easy to move from place to place.

Photo of a “potbelly stove” from a can:

Using the same example, you can also make a potbelly stove from an iron barrel.

But there are other, more complex options with greater efficiency.

From timber

A timber smokehouse is made in the same way as a wooden smokehouse, but here, instead of boards, the body is made entirely of timber.

Case manufacturing

The body of the smokehouse is made of beams, 1.3-1.5 m long and with a cross-section of 20x50 or 50x50 mm . The frame of the device is formed from them. It is a rectangular box. Next, it on three sides with boards with a section of 20x150 or 25x150 .

When making a body from beams, you need to decide on the roof of the structure. If a gable roof is assumed, then guides are made from bars, which represent an isosceles triangle. The median is taken from the top to the bottom.

Then a doorway . Boards are filled, 20 cm long at the top and bottom. A door is fixed into the opening, a roof with a hole for the pipe is installed on top. After this, the smokehouse body is covered with clapboard. A metal sheet is laid on the roof, but the hole for the pipe is not closed.

are formed inside the smokehouse for fixing the grate and tray . For this, boards are used whose length is 90 cm . using screws .

How to make a lattice

The grille is made of unpainted wire. First, a frame is made, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the internal space of the camera. Wires are welded to it at a distance of 4 cm from each other. The grate is ready.

The tray for collecting the fat from the products, which flows out of the products during smoking, is made of a metal sheet. Its dimensions correspond to the dimensions of the grille.

Smoke exhaust

To make a chimney, you need to dig a three-meter trench between the hearth and the smoking chamber, width - 0.5 m, depth - 0.3 m . A chimney is installed in it , which is filled with concrete mortar. A layer of earth at least 15 cm . This will allow the chimney to not freeze even in winter.

Photo 2. The chimney from the old pipe leads to the place prepared for the firebox. Thanks to the refractory bricks, it is quite safe to light an open fire there.

Assembly

Before installing a smokehouse on the site, a foundation is made for it. To do this, dig a hole corresponding to the size of the smokehouse, 40 cm . The bottom of the foundation is covered with crushed stone , concrete blocks are fixed along the walls using reinforcement, after which the entire pit is filled with mortar made from cement. A camera is fixed on it . Inside of which there should already be a tray installed to collect the fat released from the products during smoking, and a grate.

A chimney is connected to the foundation . An iron square welded from a metal sheet is fixed at one end. Its size must match the dimensions of the camera. It is installed on the foundation. A firebox is installed at the other end of the chimney . It should be made of refractory brick and equipped with a metal door. This will be the place where the fire is lit.

The final stage is installing the smokehouse. It is placed directly on the foundation. The two structures are fastened together using metal brackets . The smokehouse is ready!

The use of capillary technologies in the manufacture of a furnace

In addition to the simplest method of manufacturing an oil furnace described above, more advanced options are also used. One of them is a capillary furnace for mining. Anyone who knows how to handle metal and tools can also do it with their own hands.

In this design, oil is not simply poured into the combustion chamber, where it is found in large quantities, but is done gradually through a drip system. This method allows the oil to burn out with greater efficiency, and its consumption is reduced to a minimum. Separately from the furnace, an oil tank is installed in the upper part, which is connected to the combustion chamber of the furnace by a pipe. An adjustment valve is installed in the pipe, with the help of which the flow of oil into the firebox is metered. Otherwise, the design is no different from the simplest furnace in testing. The do-it-yourself drawings presented below will help you make such a unit without difficulty.

Scheme of drip fuel supply for a homemade stove

How to improve the oven

Modernization is about ease of use. An iron stove weighs a lot (150 - 160 kg), and to clean it from ash it needs to be turned over. An improvement is to install doors through which combustion residues can be removed.

Modernization of the Bubafonya stove

The peculiarity of the unit is the absence of gaps and tightness, therefore, when installing the doors, insulation must be done. First, the iron sides in the opening are welded, then heat-resistant seals are used.

Cross-shaped pieces of channel under the base of the piston are replaced with metal plates to improve air flow. This way the flow will not swirl, but will be distributed rhythmically in the combustion chamber.

Modernization of a brick kiln

A triangular-shaped stove is made to be installed in the corner of the room. Less brick will be needed for laying, which will save the owner money.

The second option would be to install a separating damper to switch between summer and winter use.

Appendix 1

Today I received another letter asking me to explain where to get capillaries and, in general, how to make an injector. It was even proposed to use electrical erosion. I had no idea that this could cause problems. So, I do it this way. First of all, I got used to using M3 screws for the injectors (a regular screw with a 3 mm metric thread). So, take your box of M3 screws, dump it out and distribute it in an even layer. Then take a magnet and pull out all the attached screws. As a result, you will be left with screws that do not tighten. The fact that they look the same as the others should not fool you. These are plated brass screws. In the photo under number 1. If there are no brass M3s, nothing prevents you from doing this with M4.

Next, you have five options: - immediately drill a hole with the required drill diameter. But this is for fairly large holes and with a precision drill. - drill on both sides of the screw with a large drill, but not all the way. Then pierce this jumper with a needle or drill it with a small drill. - drill with a large drill, and then fill the hole with PIC solder, and then work with it, which is much easier. - drill with a large drill, and then use POS solder to solder a stainless wire of the appropriate diameter coaxially into the screw. And then pull out the wire. And finally, you can solder a capillary of the appropriate diameter into the drilled hole using low-melting solder. So, capillaries, that is, thin tubes. Under the number 2 are capillaries from instrumentation instrument recorders. It’s unlikely that this advice will make you feel any better. But number 3 is the most realistic option. When the doctor gives you an injection, don’t groan, don’t feel sorry for yourself, but gather your willpower and ask the doctor to give you the needle as a souvenir. He will give it back, he doesn’t mind. Thus, over the course of your sick life and that of your loved ones, you will collect an extensive collection of capillaries. And if you are lucky enough to give injections with imported syringes, the range will become much richer. They also have very thin needles, for example for vaccinations. Don’t forget to also collect a collection of steel elastic wires for cleaning capillaries - number 4. Number 5 - my new gas stove came with a whole set of nozzles with different hole diameters. And finally, 6-end clamps for mounting multi-core electrical wires. A whole bunch of different diameters.

Tags: connecting a camping gas stove to a cylinder

Comments 60

Isn't it easier to use things for their intended purpose? Tiles with dichlorvosnik - in autonomous hikes. And when you drag a cylinder, then there is a corresponding tile under it.

Moreover, they are cool:

At the moment I have not found where I can refill such a 5 liter cylinder. A year ago it was easy to do. Right now we most likely need new ones, although in Nizhny Novgorod there are refusals everywhere ((

In our Moscow region, anyone can fill it up, even if it’s 2 liters, but what’s up in the Moscow region, throughout Russia I haven’t experienced any major problems with this. Even Polish ones, in some places there are Polish ones and there are no adapters. I bought my own adapter but never used it.

What a score. And at one gas station, 90 km from my house, they only fill it with veniel. In short, within a radius of 150 km, there are a lot of propane gas stations, I asked everywhere, they only contact 50 liter ones and then for an exchange

Yes, they just got lazy. And they became completely swollen along the way. I don’t take gas for exchange at all. I will give them my new balloon.

I made a car for this purpose. I welded a filling device and handles to it, now I go to the pump and fill it according to the meter

I saw the HBO installers, they heat personal spaces like this, they even fused the roof in the garage))

Something else is annoying. At some gas stations they charge 150-200 rubles for refilling any tank. A two-liter bottle is a bit expensive to refill

Source

Conversion of the gas unit

You can make wood-burning boilers with your own hands not only from scratch. In the vast expanses of the Internet you can find not only diagrams of homemade boilers. If you still have an old gas boiler, you should not throw it away or recycle it.

To do this, the boiler must be disassembled and all elements that must be connected to the gas system removed from it. Next, it’s worth turning to the diagram of a homemade boiler. There is nothing complicated in such a scheme. The converted gas boiler system is similar to an antique steam locomotive.

This boiler consists of a metal barrel that is filled with water. Pipes are laid inside the barrel and brought out. Through these pipes, heated air enters the heating system. Air circulation is carried out in two ways: natural and forced. The use of forced air circulation in a garage heating system is irrelevant. Such heating schemes are suitable for two-story residential buildings. For a garage, it is quite enough to implement a simple heating system with natural circulation of coolant within the system.

The heating system itself and radiators are mounted to those pipes that extend from the water tank. To heat a regular-sized garage, it is enough to equip the heating system with just two radiators of 4 sections. Considering the fact that this room will be heated periodically, you should not use water as a coolant. The best option for such heating systems is air or antifreeze. Antifreeze is quite expensive, so it is better to opt for an air heating system.

Any solid fuel whose humidity does not exceed 20% can be used as fuel in such boilers. The most common and inexpensive fuel is wood. At enterprises that cut wood, you can purchase scraps of boards or formwork for a low price. Thus, an old gas boiler can be turned into a quite useful tool for heating a garage space.

Using insulation: pros and cons

Economy-class garages are almost never insulated on the outside for a very simple reason - it is too expensive for a room that is not constantly used. Yes, this is not always possible, for example, in garage cooperatives, buildings are placed very close to each other, the gap does not allow installation of insulation.

To insulate a garage, you can use materials such as fiberboard, which extinguish when caught on fire. The use of plastic in such a room is unacceptable

But the internal thermal insulation of a garage can also be problematic. When installing insulation material directly on metal walls, a so-called dew point occurs at the point of their contact, i.e. place where condensation accumulates. Almost always, when in contact with moisture, insulation becomes unusable quite quickly.

And for the structure itself, such a situation can be disastrous. Insulation can be installed in a metal garage, but it is better to install a suitable material at some distance from the wall, about 20-50 mm.

You should retreat 50-70 mm from the floor. It is best to use washers as a profile to avoid creating closed contours under the coating.

With this installation option, condensation will also appear, but thanks to air circulation under the insulation layer, the moisture will gradually evaporate without causing any noticeable harm to the structure.

However, for a garage that is constantly heated, this option is not suitable, since the indoor humidity will be excessively high most of the time. This will put both the health of people and the condition of the vehicle at risk.

When insulating a metal structure, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between it and the insulating material for regular drainage of condensate

As a material for such “ventilated” insulation, it is recommended to use slabs, for example, fiberboard, chipboard, that is, wood materials that self-extinguish when ignited. Recommended thickness is about 5 mm.

Flat ondulin or its analogues are perfect. These materials have the ability to reflect infrared radiation, which provides effective heating.

But plastic, even with attenuation properties, is strictly not recommended to be placed in the garage. When ignited, such materials emit toxic fumes, which can cause poisoning to people who escaped the fire. It is also prohibited to use slabs containing asbestos as insulation.

When insulating a cold brick garage, it is recommended to first plaster the walls with vermiculite to protect them from moisture. The walls of a metal garage should be painted in two layers, having previously primed the base.

The walls of an insulated garage must be treated with a water-repellent compound to protect the building from the destructive effects of condensation

DIY gas fireplace

Another convenient option for heating rooms is a gas fireplace. Purchasing such a device will cost a hefty sum, although the most savvy can independently assemble and arrange a fireplace in their box without a particularly large investment.

This kind of fireplace can be powered either directly from a gas pipe or from a gas cylinder.

You can find a wide variety of designs for gas fireplaces on the Internet. Also, some users can purchase prefabricated structures, lay out the brickwork themselves and assemble a fireplace from pre-prepared parts

The design consists of the following main elements:

an ordinary fireplace insert or a decorative one that decorates the room;
fireplace body made of refractory metals - cast iron or other alloys;
burner that supplies gas;
gas supply system.

After determining the place where the structure will be installed, it is necessary to prepare it to begin the construction of the brickwork. There must be a solid foundation. You also need to install the chimney. After the fireplace is erected, it can be decorated with a variety of decorative elements to suit the taste of the owners.

The fireplace is laid only from refractory bricks. When erecting a structure, care should be taken to ensure passage to the gas valve. After the internal elements of the masonry are installed and communication is connected to the gas burner, you should make sure that the entire system is tight.

With the help of a valve, in the future it will be possible to regulate the strength of the gas supply and, consequently, the amount of heat generated. Gas workers advise turning the burners with their holes facing down - this will protect them from contamination and moisture.

The burner should also be reinforced with protective mesh elements. This will reduce the load on the burner from the decorative material.

A pipe covered with refractory materials is supplied to the fireplace firebox, supplying gas. The gas burner is installed with the holes down and masked with artificial refractory material

The introduction of some modern devices will allow you to slightly automate the operation of the fireplace. This way you can connect a gas supply control system, depending on the level of heat generated, or an automatic gas supply shutdown system. All modifications are freely available on the market, and their acquisition depends on the desire and ability of the owners.

Beautiful decoration of the fireplace bowl is made using a variety of stones, glass, and ceramics. In addition to interior decoration, the outside of the fireplace can be decorated with tiles or in another way. The main thing is that it is a fireproof material.

It is easy to assemble a gas stove yourself with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to the design and safety instructions.

If you follow all the requirements and recommendations, assembling the stove will be a fun and inexpensive activity. Self-assembly of such a design will save significant money.

First of all, before installing a gas stove to heat a room, it is worth carrying out a number of preparatory measures. If you do not insulate the room, then even the most powerful equipment will not give a serious result

Therefore, it is important to carry out external and internal insulation procedures, as well as equip reflective surfaces

List of required tools

Before you start reconfiguring the stove to use liquefied gas and connecting it to a gas cylinder, you should prepare in advance all the necessary tools and spare parts. First of all, you will need:

new jets;
flexible hose for a gas cylinder more than one and a half meters long. It must be new without any cracks or damage, since the safety of others depends on this;
gas reducer with output pressure 30 mBar (frog);
wrenches (7 mm wrench, open-end);
screwdrivers;
seal;
soapy water.

Features of homemade gas stoves

A gas stove differs from a wood stove in that it uses gas for kindling. Therefore, in such a device, instead of a window for storing firewood, a cavity for the burner is mounted. However, you can also make a gas-wood stove with your own hands.

A metal sauna stove is often lined with brick. The lining is made to increase heat transfer. In addition, a metal structure with a brick casing cools much more slowly

Most gas furnaces have the following design. A pressurized or atmospheric gas burner is mounted in the device body. Fuel is supplied through a sealed gas hose or pipe.

At the top of a homemade gas stove there is a closed heater or an open tray with stones that are heated by a burner, as well as a device that removes combustion products.

When assembling it yourself, be sure to take care of installing a thermostat and a fuse that cuts off the gas supply if the burner goes out. The gas chamber containing the combustible gas is usually located under a tray with stones.

The advantages of homemade gas stoves for baths include:

compact size, because gas stoves do not have a firebox or ash pan;
rapid heating to the required temperatures;
economical resource consumption;
there is no need for constant maintenance of the device;
When installing a water tank, you can also heat the water.

The disadvantages include the need for a gas source. For example, if the bathhouse is located outside the city in a non-gasified area, some owners will have to buy gas cylinders or install a mini-gas holder. However, there is an advantage to this - there is no need to obtain permits.

It is worth remembering that when working with gas you must always follow safety precautions.

When choosing a gas burner for a sauna stove, it is worth considering that the efficiency of atmospheric burners does not exceed 90%, and the efficiency of forced-air burners is more than 95%. However, the first option wins in terms of independence from electricity

When installing an open combustion stove, it is necessary to design and install a ventilation system and chimney. Also, when oxygen is burned, the air becomes drier, so you need to take care of humidifying the air.

Design and principle of operation

The simplest gas burners consist of:

mixer,
burner installation,
supports for dishes that can be folded, unfolded,
valve regulating gas supply,
regulator that controls fire power,
flame divider that directs gas from the cylinder.

The burners, which can be connected to gas cylinders with a hose, have folding supports for installation on any surface.

Tourist gas stoves have a body in which a portable gas cylinder is placed, as well as a burner. To operate a stove that can be connected to an external power source, a reducer is needed to reduce fuel pressure and allow the camp stove to work better.

Most modern travel gas stoves are equipped with a piezo ignition device. There are also special attachments that can be used to produce light or heat.

The principle of operation is simple: inside the gas burner mixer, the gas coming from the cylinder and air are mixed. A spark created by piezo ignition causes this mixture to burn. The burner nozzles provide a uniform flame of fire.

Gas supply to residential buildings

Gas facilities must be equipped in full compliance with the requirements of the approved “Rules for the installation and operation of gas equipment in residential buildings.” Installation of gas networks, gas equipment and domestic gas stoves in a residential building is carried out by a special organization according to an approved project. The project includes the development of an entrance to the building (yard gas networks), as well as gas distribution inside the house.

For domestic needs, it is allowed to use low pressure gas (not exceeding 100 mm of water column). In order to maintain constant pressure in front of appliances (oven, stove, water heater), an apartment regulator-stabilizer is installed.

The depth of the gas pipeline in the area, which ranges from 1.2 to 1.7 m, is taken depending on the climatic region and the depth of soil freezing.

The water vapor contained in the gas cools in winter and creates ice plugs in the gas pipeline, thereby blocking gas access to consumers. Therefore, in projects for yard gas networks, the issue of draining condensate from the network must be provided for and correctly resolved.

In cases where the main gas networks are located at a great distance from the village and it is not practical to lay expensive transit gas pipelines, gas supply is carried out using imported liquid gas. The product of secondary distillation of oil - propane-butane - is used as a flammable gas.

For a kitchen stove designed for one family, with low gas consumption, two cylinders are needed, one of which is a working one, the other is a spare one. The capacity of the cylinder is 50 or 80 liters, which sufficiently provides a family of 4-6 people for one week. The cylinders are installed in special metal cabinets at each home. Gas pipelines from cabinets with cylinders to the place of gas consumption are laid by a special organization.

Gas stoves and tagans are installed in kitchens whose height is at least 2.2 m. In this case, the kitchen must have an exhaust ventilation duct measuring 130x130 mm, a window or an opening transom in the window. In kitchens without windows, it is allowed to install gas stoves or tagans if there is a ventilation duct and direct access to a non-residential premises that has a window with a window or an opening transom. In kitchens with a height of 2 to 2.2 m, as well as in kitchens without windows, each burner must have at least 4 m3 of space.

There is no kitchen in the house and it is impossible to allocate a separate room for it; it is allowed to install gas stoves and tagans in a corridor with a height of at least 2.2 m, which has a window and a ventilation duct. In this case, the width of the free passage between the installed slab or tagan and the opposite wall must be at least 1 m.

The internal volume of kitchens or corridors equipped with gas stoves or tagans without exhaust hoods must be no less than: for a stove or tagan with 2 burners - 8 m3, for a stove with 4 burners - 16 m3.

When installing exhaust hoods over stoves or tagans, it is allowed to reduce the volume of the room: with a 2-burner stove - up to 6 m3, with a 4-burner stove - 12 m3.

Gas water heaters are installed in bathrooms or combined bathrooms, the internal volume of which is at least 7.5 m3, equipped with ventilation ducts and having a floor grille with an area of at least 0.02 m2 or a gap between the door and the floor of at least 3 cm to ensure air flow. The doors of these rooms must open outward.

Heating stoves and cookers operate on gas if they are connected to separate chimneys. Burners installed in stoves and stoves must be of the ejection type and ensure complete combustion of gas.

Ejection burners (unlike diffusion burners) use the energy of the gas jet to draw ambient air into the burner, resulting in a mixture of gas and air burning in the burner.

In the views or valves of stoves operating on gas, holes with a diameter of 15, 20 mm must be made for constant exhaust from the firebox.

Safety precautions when using a stove with bottled gas

Gas equipment is always a source of potential danger. In this regard, a number of simple but important rules should be followed:

the gas stove must be installed in a well-ventilated area;

a liquefied gas cylinder is installed outdoors, in a special metal box;

If you smell a smell in the room, you should immediately ventilate it and turn off all electrical appliances;

All connections, hose and gearbox must be accessible for inspection.

The best solution for temporary heating

Now the scope of use of potbelly stoves is quite diverse:

garage heating,
cottage heating,
heating of construction sites,
heating of other rooms where centralized heating is impossible or not connected.

With its help you can both heat the room and cook food. A big plus is the ability to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from any old milk flask, barrel, gas cylinder, several pieces of sheet iron and pipe scraps.

It almost instantly gains temperature and quickly releases it into the surrounding space, but the latter fact has little effect if the room is sufficiently insulated.

Secrets of a secure connection

The installation of any gas equipment is in one way or another associated with a certain risk to the health and life of others. Therefore, it is important to strictly adhere to certain rules during installation work:

The gas stove must not be installed in rooms with poor ventilation;
The gas cylinder must be placed at a distance of at least 1.5 meters from the gas stove. A special metal box located outside is ideal for this;
the hose, reducer, all connections of gas equipment must be constantly accessible for visual inspection;
If you detect the smell of gas, you must immediately ventilate the room and do not use electrical appliances.

Using scrap materials to arrange the work area

Let's consider options for making a kitchen apron with your own hands from scrap materials:

A vintage tablecloth with a floral pattern will help you create a unique floral pattern. Such an apron will transform the kitchen, it will become cozy and comfortable.
You can decorate your work area using photo wallpaper or a world map. In the latter case, a sheet of plywood is cut to the size of the apron and a card is glued onto it, then the surface is covered with a transparent layer of varnish so that high temperatures and humid air do not damage the paper. After the varnish has dried, attach the plywood to the base surface.
Old broken dishes will help transform the design of the room. Pieces of ceramic are glued to the wall like mosaic tiles.

What is a gas burner and what does it consist of?

Any device designed to burn liquid and gaseous fuels has a main component - a burner. It is responsible for the formation of a uniform flame. The fuel mixture can be of different quality, but a well-thought-out method of fuel supply will ensure complete combustion of any combustible mixture.

Atmospheric gas burners for boilers have a very simple design

The most important indicators of a high-quality device for burning gas are silent operation and the absence of the release of harmful compounds when burning fuel, in particular carbon monoxide. A modern household gas burner for a heating boiler is a simple device that has gone through a long process of modernization. Some old designs, produced in Soviet times, made a lot of noise and were far from safe, especially in strong winds.

Many indicators, including noise level, are influenced by the design features of the combustion chambers. In new models of burners, much attention is paid to the convenience of ignition and uniform flame supply. The design features of a gas burner for space heating are very simple:

gas ignition is provided by the ignition system;
the gas ignites in the nozzle;
automation is designed to control basic indicators: temperature, uniformity of gas distribution, emergency shutdown;
the presence of fire is monitored by a special “flame sensor”.

From the room, by-products of gas combustion must be removed outside so that harmful impurities do not fill the space. To remove gas, you need a chimney with good draft. This is the only drawback of gas heating. The gas burner device itself is constantly being improved, including the following indicators:

The noise level of a gas burner depends on the design of the combustion chamber

heat generation schemes;
rational flow of oxygen;
methods for removing soot and carbon dioxide.

Gas burners for boilers: basic requirements and operating diagram

The heat released during gas combustion is concentrated in a heat exchanger, from where it is transferred to the coolant. Along with a small amount of heat, part of the combustion products is released into the atmosphere. A chemical reaction of heat release occurs: at high temperatures, the combustion gas combines with oxygen coming from the air. The operating principle of a gas burner is based on the combustion of gas and the release of heat. Water vapor and carbon dioxide are by-products of a chemical reaction that produces heat.

Among the dangerous substances are nitrogen oxide, carbon monoxide and some resinous components. Because of this, special requirements are placed on the hood and chimney - good draft is important.

According to modern requirements, in any mode, gas burners for heating boilers with automation (and other varieties) must be low toxic. It is required that during the combustion process only slightly toxic gases and a small amount of soot are released, which is a general condition for the use of most types of raw materials for heating.

A properly thought-out method of fuel supply will ensure its complete combustion

Basic requirements for a boiler burner:

accessibility for self-installation;
clear design diagram;
long period of operation;
reliability of operation;
low noise threshold;
ease of switching modes;
possibility of working on another type of fuel;
complete combustion of gas;
high environmental performance (few harmful combustion products are released).

As you know, a cheap product indicates low quality products and a short service life. Often repairs are impossible, especially if there is no warranty period and no factory certificate. There are always high-quality household gas burners for heating boilers on sale. Their price is quite acceptable for most consumers.

Briefly about the requirements

When taking on a particular project, it is important to remember that the main thing is your own safety. That is why there are very specific requirements for garage stoves - made of metal, gas cylinders, or any material in general - and ignoring them entails an equally specific threat to your life

We have collected the main ones - remember:

when installing a chimney, take care of the tightness of its channel;
place the stove at a reasonable distance from flammable objects and liquids;
do not use suspicious substances as fuel, as the vapors released during combustion can be harmful to your health;
the exhaust valve must be no less than 10 cm in diameter;
The recommended dimensions for standard potbelly stoves are 70x50x35 cm, while the volume of the structure should not exceed 12 liters.

Burner connection guide

Gas cylinders are usually used in everyday life for cooking. But nothing prevents you from connecting to them a torch for soldering copper pipes. A similar tool is used for roofing work, singeing animals during slaughter at home, etc.

The reducer for the burner should be selected not an ordinary household one for a stove, but a special one for welding machines. From the first the pressure will be too low

Before connecting a burner to a gas cylinder, you should carefully examine it and the hose to it. The bottled gas in the container is under a pressure of 15–16 atm. If the burner and outlet are not designed for such parameters, then you will have to connect an adjustable reducer for propane. According to TB rules, you can’t do without it.

If the gas reducer is not connected at all, the gas will be consumed too much. Of course, you can adjust its supply using the valve on the cylinder, but it is difficult to talk about any safety of work in this situation.

Construction of a heater from a pipe

This homemade design is also called a thermal gas gun. It produces significantly more heat than previous heaters and absorbs more energy resources. Also, such structures are often equipped with chimneys, which makes them bulky and difficult to carry.

The diagram will familiarize you with the principle of operation and design features of a gas heat gun. The heat flow generated by the device is distributed using a fan

To assemble the heater yourself, you need to collect the following material:

three meter pipes of various diameters (two 8 cm and one 18 cm);
steel plates with which the fastening will be carried out;
Metal sheet;
gas burner with piezo ignition;
axial fan.

You will also need a variety of tools: drill, welding machine, tape measure, level, grinder, metal scissors. Pipes can be replaced with cylinders or fire extinguishers of suitable diameters. A grinder will be needed to cut the bottom and top, as well as shorten the workpieces.

Working in intensive mode to heat a room of 15 square meters, a forty-liter cylinder is enough for about a week. While working, the gun dries the air, so you need to humidify it

In a pipe with a diameter of 18 cm, two holes of different diameters are drilled: 1 cm and 8 cm. They need to be drilled opposite each other.

A 30 cm section is cut from a pipe with a diameter of 8 cm, which will represent the combustion chamber. Fasteners are welded to this pipe and a hole with a diameter of 1 cm is drilled in it. Then this pipe is inserted into the first pipe.

You need to cut a plug from a sheet of metal. It will close the gap between the heater body and the combustion chamber. A combustion chamber is welded to the body, and a pipe for exhausting hot air is welded to a hole with a diameter of 8 cm. After this, the plug is welded. After making sure that the gas burner is tightly attached to the combustion chamber, you can insert the hose through the centimeter holes.

A fan is installed at the back of the device, and a smoke exhaust is installed at the top. In order for the heater to stand stably on the surface, the legs should be welded. A gas heat gun efficiently heats rooms and uses gas economically. However, when using it, you should adhere to safety precautions.

What are miniature tiles for?

Many of us love to travel, and every trip to nature involves more than just setting up a tent or having friendly gatherings. Camping trips to nature are rarely complete without lighting a fire to prepare kulesh or fish soup.

But it is not always possible to make a fire. Sometimes this can be hindered by rain or other factors. For such situations, you can build a camping gas stove from scrap materials. Making a simple homemade product is not difficult.

But don’t forget that gas is a flammable substance, so you need to be extremely careful when using it .

A miniature gas stove will become indispensable on the go when you need to quickly boil water for tea or coffee

You should also take into account that a DIY camping gas stove should be light in weight and size. Next, we will look at some of the most popular homemade gas stoves.

Option No. 1 - stove for a summer house

Few people can boast of having a centralized gas supply in their country house, and this greatly complicates the ability to cook food or boil water for tea.
But, if you have the skills to work with gas welding equipment, then making a homemade gas stove for a country house will not be difficult.
To build a homemade product you will need to prepare:

thick metal corners;
flexible gas supply;
shut-off valve;
gas burner from the water heater;
welding machine.

The first step is to build the body of the future stove. To do this, you will need to cut the metal corner into 8 parts, their sizes will depend on the desired height of the stove. We also recommend that you familiarize yourself with the rules for performing welding work.

Next, using gas welding, the body of the future stove is constructed and a gas burner from the old water heater is welded to it.

This stove will be an excellent alternative to the factory version. It can be placed in any convenient place, both indoors and outdoors.

Next you need to install the hose and shut-off valve. To do this, use an adapter to connect the gas burner to the shut-off valve, and then, using a flexible gas line, connect the stove to the gas cylinder. At this stage it is very important to take care of the tightness of all connections.

Now the slab is assembled, and you can start testing it, having first checked the tightness of the connections. The easiest way is to lubricate all joints with soap foam; if bubbles appear, the connection is not airtight and the equipment cannot be used. If everything is in order, then you can start using the stove.

If there are no corners on the farm, then round metal pipes of small diameter can be used to construct the base of the tile. To stabilize them, you can weld an old car wheel underneath.

It is definitely worth remembering that at the end of using the equipment, you must turn off the gas, both on the device itself and in the cylinder.

Option No. 2 - tiles from a tin can

Many travel lovers have probably heard and used such a device as a camping gas stove.

They are a lightweight portable burner with legs, and are powered by a gas cartridge. You can buy them at any store that sells travel supplies.

A camping gas stove will be a real salvation during the rain, when it is not possible to make a fire from wood. A small gas cylinder may well be enough for a family weekend in nature

The only downside to camping tiles is their cost. Therefore, we suggest assembling a camp gas stove from scrap materials with your own hands, especially since any home craftsman can make it.

Step 1 - preparing the base of the future stove

Step 2 – drill a hole in the can

Step 3 – bending the copper tube

Step 4 - making the nozzle

Step 5 - constructing a tile burner

Step 6 - attaching the gas mixture supply tube

Step 7 - making tile legs
Step 8 – test the gas camp stove

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a camping gas stove. The main thing is to take precautions when working with gas equipment.

Option No. 3 - camping gas stove

If you are used to traveling by car, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the following option for a homemade gas stove.
This is a more cumbersome design than the previous option, but with the help of such a tile you can cook food or boil water much faster on the go.
Assembling the gas stove body
Installation of tile legs
Installing the grate on the stove
Connect the cylinder to the gas stove

Before you start using a homemade device, you must check the joints for gas leaks.

How to do this was written a little higher.

Option No. 4 - camp tiles made from pipes

It’s not at all difficult to build the next version of a camping gas stove with your own hands.
To do this, you will need very little: a piece of metal pipe and skills in working with a grinder and a welding machine.
Marking blanks for tiles
Cutting teeth on tile base
Grinding the body of the future stove
Marking and drilling holes
Drill a hole for the nozzle
We weld the burner holder
Checking the structure for stability
Testing a homemade gas stove

When working with a welding machine and grinder, be sure to follow safety rules. If you don’t have the skills to work with such equipment, you can order the production of a workpiece in a workshop.

Option No. 5 - gas infrared stove

Those who like to travel in the cold season will definitely appreciate the option of a gas stove, which can be used to heat the tent.

For work you will need to take the following tools and materials:

gas cylinder (200 g or 5 l);
oxygen hose at least 2 m long;
infrared gas burner;
clamp;
screwdriver;
gas nozzle;
retaining ring.

When choosing a ceramic burner in a store, you should give preference to small-sized models. They use gas much more economically than larger devices.

Since it is very difficult to make a ceramic gas burner with your own hands, it would be better if you purchase this device in a store

Having prepared all the necessary tools and materials, you can begin assembling the device. First, we connect the nozzle to the inlet of the gas burner and secure it with a locking ring. Next, connect the oxygen hose to the nozzle and tighten the clamp tightly with a screwdriver.

Then we connect the second end of the oxygen hose to the gas cylinder and also secure the connection with a clamp.

The homemade gas stove is ready. In order to light it, you need to open the gas and bring the match to the gas burner.

With such a stove you can not only heat a tent, but also cook food on it. To do this, you will need to place two stones on the sides of the burner, and place skewers on them, making an improvised burner

When using such a device, you must follow the rules of safe operation. It is forbidden to leave a working device unattended. You also need to remove flammable items away from the homemade gas stove and do not forget to periodically ventilate the tent.

Rules for safe operation

When working with gas equipment, do not forget about the rules of safe operation. Improper use of the cylinder may result in an explosion or fire.

In addition, homemade gas stoves are devices that pose a hidden threat, so you need to be as careful as possible when working with them. Even at the stage of constructing a homemade product, you need to take care to do everything exactly according to the instructions.

You should also not neglect checking the connections, since even the slightest leak can lead to dire consequences.

The most common way to check gas equipment for leaks is to lubricate the connections with soap suds. If it does not bubble, then the equipment is in good condition and you can start using it.

General recommendations for creating devices

In an effort to save on expenses, many owners, when choosing among heater options, are in no hurry to purchase ready-made factory models.

After all, if you have the desire and the appropriate skills, you can always construct a heating device on your own.

When choosing a DIY garage heater, many are guided by two parameters:

The heating device should be easy to activate, quickly warming up the room.
The device must have a simple design, devoid of complex parts and elements.
Operation of the device must be carried out with minimal financial costs.

All these requirements are met by three options for the homemade heaters described below, which operate from different energy sources: gas, solid fuel and electricity.

The safety of the device is also important. Therefore, regardless of the heating method in the garage, it is necessary to equip a ventilation system

After all, a decrease in the amount of oxygen and the accumulation of combustion products poses a risk to human life.

Is self-connection allowed?

Almost all gas workers unanimously claim that connecting a propane cylinder to a gas stove should be done exclusively with their participation, having paid them money for calling a technician. However, this connection can be done with your own hands without additional costs.

There is nothing fundamentally complicated about this issue. Connecting a gas hob to a cylinder involves choosing a place for a container with fuel and organizing an outlet from there in the form of a pipe or flexible hose to the stove.

Whether the cylinder is connected to the stove yourself or by calling a gas fitter - according to the law, all responsibility for the safe operation of gas appliances lies solely with the owners or tenants of the residential building

To perform such work, you only need to have basic skills in handling wrenches. Plus, you will have to carefully study and fully comply with fire safety rules for gas-powered equipment.

A household propane cylinder can be installed both inside and outside a residential building. But fire safety standards recommend choosing a place to store gas outside, and not in the kitchen or utility room of the cottage. If installed outdoors, you will need to install a longer pipe or hose, but the likelihood of a fire and/or explosion will be less.