✅ How to make a bathhouse from a brick barn -

If you are the happy owner of a summer house or a private house with a small plot, then you can set up a bathhouse in an old barn. It will give the whole family good health and wonderful relaxation after a hard day at work. Also, if the need and desire arise, you can make good money by setting an hourly wage and letting your neighbors, acquaintances and other people steam there.

We will equip an old barn, which we do not use, with a concrete floor as a steam room. The barn can be built from wood, brick, foam block or shell.

Other repair places

So, if the basic elements of the bath are clear, then the question remains open with the smaller details.

It would not be superfluous to make repairs, or rather replace all electrical wiring in the bathhouse. Older buildings used aluminum wiring. It would be better to lay copper wires.

If there are electric heating devices in the bathhouse, then the cross-sectional area of the wire should be about 4 mm². If the wiring is used only to power ordinary light bulbs, then thin copper wires with a cross-sectional area of 2.5 mm² will suffice.

Diagram of a brick stove for a bathhouse.

Often the reason for the presence of cold air in the bathhouse is an old window or door. These elements also need to be paid attention to when renovating a bathhouse. It is best to remove the old jambs and install new ones, while insulating them. You should do the same with windows.

Insulation can be done with polystyrene foam, if the gaps between the frame and the wall are large, or with polyurethane foam, if such gaps are small enough. Door jambs can be insulated in the same way.

As for repairing bath furniture, there are no difficulties at all. The best furniture for a bathhouse would be furniture made of wood. However, wooden objects have one serious drawback - in a damp room they very quickly become unusable.

Now there are many special liquids that protect wood from rotting. Having made new benches and shelves, it is necessary to saturate them with this substance. Ordinary pinotex or some kind of antiseptic would be ideal.

It is important to know! An important element of any bathhouse is the wastewater removal system.

In a bathhouse, as a rule, it consists of the floor itself and the drain hole. The floor slopes towards the drain pipe.

Very often, water stagnates on the floor surface precisely because of improper floor construction. In this case, the repair will involve laying a cement screed on the surface of the concrete floor, which will form a slope in the desired direction.

In addition, you need to clean the drain pipe. It often turns out that the drain pipe is simply not able to pass the amount of water consumed, which causes it to become clogged. In this case, it is recommended to replace the pipe with one that has a larger diameter.

At the entrance to the pipe, that is, inside the bathhouse, you need to install a mesh to prevent debris from getting inside the pipe. At the same time, it will be necessary to increase the volume of the drain well.

So, renovating a bathhouse is not difficult. It all depends on the scale of the repair. It is worth remembering that it is better to completely re-insulate an old bathhouse rather than filling up old holes.

If possible, it is recommended to completely replace the ceiling, floor, and roof. The same applies to the oven. Old stoves tended to emit large amounts of carbon dioxide, which, coupled with a clogged chimney, became dangerous to human life and health.

Today, metal stoves are becoming very popular, which can continue to be heated even during washing without harm to health. Therefore, repairing a bathhouse may include a complete replacement of the stove.

Reconstruction plan

Provides for the arrangement of a bathhouse on the basis of the specified barn, which will be visited by 4 people once a week, with an estimated water consumption of 55-60 l/person:

A metal sauna stove using wood fuel, dry weight 210 kg, equipped with an open hot water tank with a capacity of 270 liters, welded from structural steel grade st.3. Filling will be done via a hose. Heater of non-flowing type, combined basket filling: gabbrodiabase 70% + quartzite 30%, total weight 60 kg
The steam room and washing room, due to the presence of an open hot water boiler and the small area of the room, will be combined and located on the available 2/3 of the area. The dressing room will take up 1/3 and will also be used for storing brooms and an operational supply of dry firewood;
The sewerage system, due to the moderate drainage of moisture by the soil, will be represented by a water ladder, a drainage plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, and a hole 150 cm deep with a diameter of 1400 mm, dug at a distance of 4 m from the building’s base line. The walls of the pit will be lined with recycled truck tires, size 530/70R21, which in metric terms is 1300x530-533mm. The approximate capacity of the septic tank is 2.3 cubic meters gross;
Due to the poor condition of the floors, the old structure will be dismantled and a new one erected viz. Under a 100 mm thick concrete pad reinforced with a metal mesh, foam plastic is laid on top of a layer of waterproofing, with a sewer pipe with a drain and branches laid. The pipe is put into an insulating casing. The thickness of the finished screed floor is 35 mm. Thin ceramic tiles with a textured surface are laid on it in order to minimize the risk of injury as a result of visitors sliding on a wet surface;
Under the sauna stove, it is necessary to organize a foundation base, untied from the main tape. We covered the rules for laying a foundation when we told you how to build a sauna stove yourself.

By the way! In principle, due to the fact that the weight of the equipped furnace is relatively small, and our project is distinguished by the most economical approach to the development of funds, you can try to avoid the use of expensive reinforcement in favor of reinforcing the concrete mass with basalt fiber. Plastic fiber works somewhat worse due to the weak adhesion of cement to polypropylene. Basalt fiber can increase impact strength by 230%, abrasion resistance by 150%, improve bending strength, compression, torsion, axial tensile strength by 50-80%. The limit of crack resistance and water resistance increases by 80% and 25%, respectively. All of the above arguments can be taken into account when reinforcing a concrete floor base with fiber.

The old blind window must be dismantled and a metal-plastic hinged window installed with a ventilation function, since the presence of an open water heating tank causes high humidity in the room, and at the same time, increased requirements for the organization of ventilation.

Bath floor

It is worth laying structural tiles on a concrete floor in a barn; the surface of such tiles is a little rough, as if a little abrasive. And it is almost impossible to slip on such tiles. It is also worth making grates from boards, which we will lay on top of the tiles for comfortable movement around the bathhouse, because wood does not heat up as much as tiles and will not burn your feet when walking.

Be sure to weigh the pros and cons and decide whether to install a water drain in the floor. If you want to take a steam bath with a park, then your DIY barn sauna will need to be thoroughly wiped with a dry cloth and ventilated.

The basis

The beginning of November. A little more and the temperature will break zero and continue to fall. I definitely order concrete with gravel (minimum 4 cubic meters). The concrete mixer arrives as expected without a sleeve, it doesn’t fit under the wires... Come on... No! I decide to pour it “as close as possible.” Then there are two options for the development of events:

Opposite the entrance from the street there is an installation “fossilized waste products of dinosaurs”
A wheelbarrow, a shovel “like real diggers” - the same one with an orange handle and a little (5 hours) work

Then I thought this was the most difficult thing. Perhaps it was so. I would like to note that it worked perfectly with the forehead protector. In the future, on weekdays, I will build only thanks to him. I’ll say right away that I have no desire to advertise anything, but if you have questions about any things, I’ll be happy to answer what, how and how much.

Input data

In our particular case, at the time of reconstruction of the barn premises, it was used for its intended purpose for 10 years: for keeping poultry, storing equipment, tools, spare parts, handling bales of hay and straw, as a firewood shed, and so on.

The barn building is:

A rectangular room with dimensions of 4000x3000mm, assembled from softwood logs with a diameter of 150-160mm. Inside, 2/3 of the building has a partition made using frame-fill technology and equipped with a doorway. Ceiling height 2520mm;
There is one entrance door, 700x1800 mm in size, one window opening, 600x800 mm in size, oriented to the west.
The floors are wooden, rough, supported by wooden logs with a cross-section of 200-220mm. Approximately 25% of the floors have local damage.
The roof is gable, has rafter overhangs 550 mm long to divert atmospheric precipitation beyond the perimeter of the base, the attic space has an adobe floor.
The foundation is strip, monolithic, unreinforced, the back of the foundation base has a waterproofing coating based on modified bitumen. The root crowns at the junction of the plinth and the frame are in satisfactory condition; no traces of damage by fungi and borers were found.
There are no communications leading to the barn.

At the location of the building lies fertile soil with a thickness of 200 mm; below it lies loam, turning into red clay with local inclusions of sandstone stone and outcrops of clay shale, at a depth of more than 250 cm from the surface.

Comments: 19

oooh ksm

Year(s)/Years ago: 4

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Denis Abrarov thanked: ooo ksm

zamolotskikh

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Good afternoon, Denis.

I partly agree with Vladimir.

It is necessary to conduct an examination of the object’s structures in order to understand whether reconstruction makes sense or not.

Best regards, Stanislav.

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Denis Abrarov thanked: zamolotskikh

Denis Abrarov

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
The house was completely dismantled, the “bowl” frame itself and the entire rafter system are in excellent condition.

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Laboratorio Creativo di Vladimir Lamfadel

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
So it was necessary to post a real photo... now everything is clear)

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oooh ksm

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
If you want to get a modern bathhouse, then timber 150x150 or 200x200 will suit you

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Design studio "Strekoza Design"

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Denis, hello! Please tell me where the object is located?

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Denis Abrarov

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
50 km from the Moscow Ring Road along Leningradka

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Design studio "Strekoza Design"

Year(s)/Years ago: 4 Last changes: Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Denis Abrarov, excellent, Denis, we will be happy to cooperate with you, we specialize in turnkey projects, until the end of May when ordering repairs, a design project in The gift comes very handy for you since you just need a full cycle of work.

We have been on the market for 11 years already, we have all our own suppliers of materials, and as a result, the project comes out several times cheaper than the average market cost. We work officially, we conclude an agreement, we are financially responsible for the deadlines. For any questions, you can contact us by phone or you can leave us your contact information, the designer will contact you personally. ____________ Strekoza Design +

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Laboratorio Creativo di Vladimir Lamfadel

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
The main thing, Denis, is not to be fooled by the “gifted design”! Professional designers never give away their work.

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Design studio "Strekoza Design"

Year(s)/Years ago: 4 Last changes: Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Laboratorio Creativo di Vladimir Lamfadel, professional designers make a name for themselves with their work, and not with gossip about other designers on forums)

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Hildebrandt group

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Good afternoon, Denis!

Ready to take on your project.

The cost of the project with 3D and a full set of drawings will be 1000 rubles/sq.m. We can carry out turnkey implementation without any problems; we have our own teams of builders and finishers. The project duration is from 10 to 20 days depending on the terms of reference. The implementation time and cost will depend on the materials.

I will be glad to cooperate!

Best regards, Andrey Hildebrandt.

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zamolotskikh

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Good afternoon, Denis.

The cost of the project is 1,050 rubles. / sq. m.

You can see examples of work and contacts in our profile.

Best regards, Stanislav, ZS-ARCH.

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Denis Abrarov

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
The composition of the drawings of the project documentation section of the AR is needed: 1. General data sheet 2. Floor plans of the building and structure 3. Marking floor plans of the building and structure 4. Facades of the building and structure 5. Sections of the building and structure 6. Roof plan of a building and structure 7. Specification for filling window and door openings of a building and structure. 8. General plan for the development of a land plot for the placement of buildings and structures.

Builders are already there

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zamolotskikh

Year(s)/Years ago: 4
Good evening, Denis.

The above price includes everything you listed (even a little more).

sauna from an existing barn

Hello, dear pros. On the site there is a rickety frame barn 194 cm X 200 cm with a gable roof and a small attic. The outside frame is covered with clapboard, there are several homemade glass windows. There is no interior decoration. On the floor there is a board (rotten in places), the ceiling (and the floor of the attic at the same time) is a board. Covered with roofing felt. There are also two stoves without a set of pipes - one cylindrical potbelly stove approximately 40-50 cm high, and a smaller potbelly stove with a cooking surface in the shape of a rectangular parallelepiped. I was going to demolish the old barn anyway. And the idea arose to make a bathhouse or sauna out of it. Those. disassemble the barn, and assemble a bathhouse in a new place from existing spare parts (replacing rotten ones). I don’t know what kind of bathhouse, but it must have a shower. For the shower I plan to use two tanks - 50 liters. heated to 80 degrees Celsius and liters per hundred of cold water, mix them. I plan to build from an old barn in order to save money; I plan to drill several metal pipes welded underneath as a foundation. Will it work? How to turn a barn into a bathhouse? Should the water be drained separately, or should it flow through the floor onto the ground? In general, I’m interested in the most budget-friendly option for independent implementation with the obligatory use of one of the existing stoves (they need to be adapted somewhere)

I wouldn’t risk lighting a stove in such a barn, especially without pipes. Just take a shower. Both barrels go to the attic, from there they flow downwards by gravity. It is preferable to drain the drain outside, into a drainage well made of tires, but for this you will have to fence off something like a shower tray.

manliher wrote: I wouldn’t risk lighting a stove in such a barn, especially without pipes

Yes, I’ll buy more pipes, of course! The question is, is it possible to place a bathhouse or sauna with a shower in this barn? And which one? This barn will be too big for a shower alone.

If the super goal is to add a stove, then you can. Only when disassembling it turns out that 80% of the material is rotten, so it won’t work out on a budget.

manliher wrote: Only when disassembling it turns out that 80% of the material is rotten, so it won’t work out on a budget.

Well, the frame there is normal. Except for the bottom trim, probably. Cladding on the outside is also tolerable. The sheathing is also ok. More windows and a door. The question, of course, is whether the savings will be sufficient, because you need to buy additional interior finishing, thermal insulation, steam-waterproofing, and wood sheets of something to protect from the stove and pipes. Or give up and build a frame bathhouse from new materials, a little larger, according to some project available on the Internet? The savings when building from an old barn are as follows: you don’t need to carry long lengths and hire a truck. I can carry boards up to three meters in a passenger car. Now I’m counting the savings: it takes less than a cube of wood for the frame (without the bottom trim), the floor (if we take it for granted that all the boards are intact, but this is not the case), the ceiling and the sheathing, i.e. less than 5 thousand External lining, if you take 100 rubles per piece (2m), costs 8400. New. You can try to save money by giving it an original appearance and overlap an ordinary board 15 mm thick. If you make a quarter of the margin in width, you will end up with 0.15 cubic meters of wood on all four walls. Pennies. I calculated this for boards 2 meters long. Thus, the resulting savings range from 5,500 to approximately 13,900 rubles. Plus savings on the door (you can make it yourself, you’ll probably need a little more wood), hinges and windows (you can install regular glass yourself in a new bathhouse). I haven't counted the frame of the door frame yet. Plus the benefits of demolishing the barn, because... He's already fed up, he's blocking the area. So who the hell knows what to do. Or save money and try to fit it into less than 4 square meters. m. bathhouse with shower, or build a new one, 3 by 3 meters. Or order a truck and build from six-meter boards. 4 by 2, for example. Probably, we need to build a bathhouse from new materials. But I want to turn on the stove anyway. The question is, which of the two?

Making a roof

The roof is made in the same way as the walls. Roof assembly:

Frame made of pine boards 50x80.
Filling with mineral wool.
Thermal insulation layer made of aluminum foil.

The process of insulating the roof The second photo shows the outlet - air must circulate around the heat source (stove). Therefore, below under the stove I will also make a hole for air flow.

Flow hole in the furnace area

conclusions

The proposed option of combining a bathhouse and a utility room is far from the only one. Therefore, the instructions for action here will be traditional for the construction market - first, be sure to conduct research and choose the most suitable option that satisfies all your wishes and placement conditions.

Article on the topic: How to build a fence from a metal picket fence

If it were not for the increased demands, not even on the strength, but on the quality of the bathhouse foundation, perhaps it would be recommended to try to do everything yourself. But since the specifics of building baths require experience and qualifications, we advise you to contact professionals who work with already proven project samples.

In the photo, everything was placed on a tubular pile foundation - for a bathhouse this is the best option in terms of preserving the structure for many years

The video in this article may still be able to convince you, in order to save space, to combine a bathhouse with a utility room, if you were unable to solve the placement problem in another way.

How to build a bathhouse from a barn with your own hands

We will equip an old barn, which we do not use, with a concrete floor as a steam room. The barn can be built from wood, brick, foam block or shell.

We provide electricity to the bathhouse

To illuminate your bath, you will need a special double-insulated cable and a lamp that is resistant to high temperatures. The switch should not be ordinary, but moisture-resistant, it should be located at the entrance to the steam room, as required by fire safety rules.

The wiring should be deepened into the walls so that the cable does not interfere, and then the bathhouse will look better and neater.

Additions:

all boards used for lining the bathhouse must be made from deciduous trees;
do not skimp on wiring materials, cables, lamps, switches and sockets. Buy high-quality and moisture-resistant ones, because the life and health of your family and guests who will visit your steam room depend on it;
lamps must be made of heat-resistant glass, since the temperature in the bathhouse sometimes rises above 100 °C;
Many people like to plunge into a cool pool after a hot bathhouse. But if you can’t afford such luxury, build a small pond in the yard, or place containers with cool water, for example, barrels, into which you can happily plunge after warm and pleasant bath procedures.

And in winter, water procedures can be replaced with snow rubdown:

Be sure to ensure that the water in the barrels, pool or pond does not stagnate. Disinfect containers with water. Especially if other people are bothering you;
Over time, you will be able to expand the bathhouse, add a relaxation room, and use it to earn money. After all, this is a good idea for business.

Important addition

Using a sauna, as you know, involves not only heating with dry steam, but also cooling with water. There is no pond near the dacha. Therefore, 8 meters from the sauna we had to make a mini-pond, into which we plunged after the steam room. In the warm season, I make sure that the water in it does not stagnate. I pump out the water for the winter - the pond will still freeze to the bottom. During this period, we replace “water procedures” with snow ones.

TOOLS FOR CRAFTSMAN AND CRAFTSMAN, AND HOUSEHOLD GOODS VERY CHEAP. FREE SHIPPING. THERE ARE REVIEWS.

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With your own hands › Bathhouse › Remodeling the room for a sauna or bathhouse

Bathhouse made of polystyrene concrete

Polystyrene concrete blocks have poor thermal conductivity. For a bath this is an ideal option. However, the material absorbs moisture. The walls of the bathhouse are protected to the maximum with reinforced waterproofing from the inside and outside.

Bathhouse construction technology

A reliable strip foundation is poured under a bathhouse made of polystyrene concrete blocks. From above, the base is covered with two layers of roofing material. Laying out the walls starts from the corners. The first row of bath blocks is placed on cement mortar. The subsequent rows are laid using glue. The thickness of the seam is kept to a maximum of 5 mm. Every third row is reinforced. Grooves are cut in the blocks for the rods. The laid reinforcement is filled with mortar. Further laying is again done using glue.

The roof of the bathhouse is made gable. Mauerlat is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Rafter legs and floor beams are attached to it. The rafters are filled with sheathing, waterproofing is rolled out, and a roofing covering, most often corrugated sheeting, is laid.

A ventilated façade is installed on the walls of the bathhouse outside. Mineral wool is used as insulation, and the cladding is chosen as desired. The inside walls of the bathhouse are similarly insulated and vapor barriered. Wooden lining is used for cladding. The ceiling of the bathhouse is hemmed in the same way as the walls. The floor is concreted. The rest room is tiled and heated with electric mats. Boards are laid inside the steam room.

The video gives tips on how to properly lay out the blocks:

Furnace and ventilation

I placed a stove-stove on fire bricks near the door. He also placed bricks between the stove and the wall. The pipe was taken outside. The stove was fenced with wooden railings so as not to accidentally touch the hot metal.

I drilled a small hole in the wall next to the stove to allow air flow into the stove. I also made a ventilation hole under the ceiling. Both openings were equipped with valves that allow you to regulate the inflow and outflow of air.

Link on topic: Do-it-yourself bathhouse - several options for building a bathhouse

Frame plus walls

The steam room was made from spruce beams and aspen boards 6 cm thick. I chose well-dried wood, it will last longer.

I built the frame of the walls and ceiling from the beams. The hardest part was attaching them to the floor. To do this, I drilled matching holes in the beams and floor, into which I then inserted large screws. A layer of waterproofing was placed between the beams and the floor.

The frame of the walls was first equipped with vapor-insulating boards, then covered with aspen boards. I made longitudinal grooves on the boards. They made it possible to firmly “grip” the structure. The bottom layer was also used here for waterproofing. I drove the nails with which I nailed the boards deeper into the wood so as not to get hurt or burned, because the temperature in the sauna reaches 100°.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse from a barn

You can get by without building a dugout if there is an old barn in the yard. After a little modernization, the building will turn out to be a good bathhouse. The shed is suitable from any material: wood, stone, foam block, brick.

The construction of a bathhouse begins with the layout. Most of the barn is used for the steam room. It is optimal to calculate 2 m2 of steam room area for 1 person.

Under the stove, choose a place where there will be a partition separating the steam room from the locker room. When planning a bathhouse, think through a convenient arrangement of shelves. It is optimal to make the floor pourable. The underground is filled with concrete screed or laid out with slabs and waterproofed with bitumen. Logs are laid on the base, a board 50 mm thick is laid with a gap of about 5 mm.

Ventilation windows - vents - are cut out in the foundation of the barn. Through them, they organize the drainage of water from the underground of the pouring floor.

Important! The concrete screed of the underground is made with a slope towards one of the walls for better water drainage.

It is optimal to cover the walls of the bathhouse with aspen boards. First, a timber frame is attached. The walls are covered with waterproofing, insulation is placed in the cells of the frame, covered with a vapor barrier, and the board is nailed down.

To cover the walls of a bathhouse, it is optimal to take a board with connecting grooves. The locking connection reduces the likelihood of steam penetration into the insulation. The nails are driven in with the heads going deep into the body of the board, otherwise you can get burned on them in the steam room.

Covering and insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse is no different from finishing the walls. You can use a thin board for cladding. The shelves for lying are made of boards 50 mm thick. The wood is sanded well. The optimal shelf width is 700 mm.

The video shows an example of remodeling a bathhouse:

Furnace and ventilation installation

A platform made of refractory bricks is laid under the stove in the bathhouse. The chimney exits through the roof. The stove itself is laid out in brick or a metal potbelly stove is installed. In any design there is a place for heating stones and water.

The furnace firebox is located in the dressing room of the bathhouse, and the rest is located inside the steam room. For ventilation, vents are cut out in opposite walls. The lower air intake window rises 500 mm from the floor, the upper exhaust window rises 2 m from the floor.

Time for change: how to make a bathhouse out of a barn?

If there is an old and unnecessary barn on your country plot, you can quite easily convert it into a bathhouse. All redevelopment work takes place in several stages and requires the following actions:

The first step is to determine whether the building needs to be surveyed to determine whether it needs renovation. If everything is in order, then you can begin remodeling the barn.
Since the bathhouse is 2 rooms, one of which contains a dressing room, and the second a steam room, you will have to build a partition with a door inside the building.
Now let's start arranging the floor. In the room where you plan to install a steam room, make sure there is a drain and a slight slope that would allow water to flow better and faster into the hole.
You will have to make sure that the roof has good waterproofing. In addition, it will need to be insulated so that the building does not release heat. The most successful solution would be to choose wood for arranging the ceiling. It is important that beams and beams are impregnated with protective agents against rot, fungi and insects.
To insulate the roof, it is necessary to lay the beams at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the wall. Boards should be nailed at the bottom, and the empty space should be filled with insulation and insulation. It is very important that there are openings in the roof for the stove chimney.
Insulation of a future bath also includes thermal insulation of the walls. For this purpose, a wooden sheathing on top of which sheets of insulation are laid is best suited. After the insulator is laid, you can proceed to finishing work.
The most current and popular finishing option is wall cladding using wooden slats. Among the most successful types of wood are hardwoods. Unfortunately, cladding with pine or spruce is impossible due to the fact that these species begin to release resin when exposed to high temperatures.
Do not forget that there should be a space of at least 2-3 centimeters between the insulation and the sheathing.
When everything is ready, you can think about choosing benches and sun loungers. By the way, here again preference should be given to deciduous trees.

Knowledge Survey

Before proceeding directly to construction work, it is necessary to determine the requirements. They are as follows:

required capacity - how many people the bathhouse will be designed for (in case of simultaneous visits);
comfortable conditions;
final view of the bathhouse outside and inside.

To decide, you need to examine the existing building.

Already at this stage you should find out how much area can be used. The best option is a bathhouse with an area of 6 square meters. meters, with a steam room 2 sq. meters.

Bathhouse from a gun carriage

In villages, in simple language, truck trailers are called carriages. For bathhouse builders, a carriage is a round timber hewn on both sides. The material is also called “two-roll timber”. The carriage was invented by the Norwegians. They came up with the idea of a strong locking connection. The docked carriage does not allow heat to pass through and ensures reliable stability of the walls of the bathhouse.

Laft baths have a number of advantages, but there are also several disadvantages.

Positive features:

The carriage is environmentally friendly. Wood does not emit chemical impurities in the bath, creates an aroma, and maintains a special microclimate.
The locking connection of the carriage is considered one of the most durable. The walls of the bathhouse are not deformed in dampness or after drying. There are no gaps between the carriage.
The appearance of the carriage has natural beauty. There is no need to additionally line the outside of the bathhouse.
For the carriage, logs with a thickness of about 400 mm are used. Such a bath wall reliably retains heat without additional thermal insulation.
The carriage inside the bathhouse is beautiful. The walls do not need to be sheathed with anything additional.
The price of the carriage will seem high to many, but the construction of a bathhouse will be cheaper due to the absence of the need for additional interior and exterior decoration.
If we compare two identical bathhouses made of a carriage and a rounded log, then the first building turns out to be more spacious.
The walls made from gun carriages are lightweight. There is no need to pour a powerful foundation under the bathhouse.

We suggest you read: Installing a door frame: tips for beginners

Among the shortcomings of construction from a gun carriage, 3 important points are identified:

The carriage is susceptible to rotting faster than a log. The problem is the hewn sides. The core of the tree is exposed, which is less resistant to moisture. To increase service life, the carriage is often and carefully treated with protective impregnations.
The cost of a bathhouse built from a gun carriage will be cheaper when compared with stone buildings that require interior and exterior finishing. In other cases, the costs will be higher. Construction from logs or beams will cost less than a similar option from a gun carriage.
An important drawback is the appearance of cracks on the carriage. However, not a single tree is immune from this problem. The cracks in the carriage are not through.

In terms of speed and ease of construction, timber construction wins. In the carriage there is a difficulty in making the locking connection.

Advice! It is better to buy a bathhouse carriage with ready-made locks.

A bathhouse is assembled from a gun carriage in the same way as a construction made from timber or logs. First, the foundation is poured, the walls and roof are installed, and the interior space is arranged. The difference in construction is the assembly of walls from gun carriages. Logs are used from coniferous trees. To make a carriage yourself, the round timber is dried. Pre-made longitudinal cuts will eliminate the appearance of cracks. The shrinkage of logs for carriages after drying reaches from 5 to 15 cm.

The corner connection of the carriage has a similar pattern to the Russian bathhouse. The edges are made with protruding ends. However, according to the Russian system, the lock of the bathhouse logs has a semicircular shape, and a secret wedge is made on the gun carriage. It goes inside the groove of the lower crown of the bathhouse.

The semicircular connecting lock of the Russian bath is connected to the insulation lining. The carriage wedge fits tightly into the groove. Without insulation, a castle according to the Norwegian system does not allow cold to pass through. The lower crown of the bath is laid on a 60 mm thick embedded board. The initial assembly of the log house is carried out without dowels. Major assembly is performed after errors are eliminated.

Important! If ventilation slots can be arranged between the logs, then the number will not work with a gun carriage. The air is left under the roof of the bathhouse.

The construction of the carriage is difficult only in construction. In all other matters, the bathhouse wins.