Review of workable fluorescent lamp connection diagrams

Replacing the lamp

If there is no light and the cause of the problem is only to replace a burnt out light bulb, you need to proceed as follows:
Disassemble the lamp

We do this carefully so as not to damage the device. Rotate the tube along the axis

The direction of movement is indicated on the holders in the form of arrows. When the tube is rotated 90 degrees, lower it down. The contacts should come out through the holes in the holders. The contacts of the new light bulb must be in a vertical plane and fit into the hole. When the lamp is installed, turn the tube in the opposite direction. All that remains is to turn on the power supply and check the system for functionality. The final step is the installation of a diffuser lamp.

↑ Parts and materials:

VD1 – Symmetrical limiting diode 1.5KE400CA (DO-27) – 1 pc., VD2 – Diode bridge DB107 (1000V/1A) – 1 pc., DA1 – TL431CLP chip – 1 pc., VT1 – Transistor KT940A 9 (0, 1 A; 300 V) – 1 pc., EL1…ELN – Ultra-bright LED – N pcs., R1 – Res.0.5-300 Ohm (Orange, black, brown, gold) – 1 pc., R2 – Res. 0.5-390 kOhm (Orange, white, yellow, golden) – 1 pc., R3 – Res. 0.25-130 Ohm (Brown, orange, brown, golden) – 1 pc., C1 – Cond. 0.22 µF, ~220 V, X2 – 1 pc., C2 – Cond. 10 µF, 400 V, 1016, 105°C – 1 pc., C3 – Cond. 0.1 µF, X7R, ceramic - 1 pc., Radiator for VT1, height 22 mm, cooling surface area 31 sq. cm - 1 pc.

Electronic ballast connection

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Connecting the electronic ballast (electronic trigger)

Chokes are quite noisy devices. Therefore, in recent years they have been connected to the fluorescent lighting system infrequently, replacing them with electronic ballasts, digital or analog.

Such devices no longer need a starter. Essentially, electronic triggers are small electronic circuit boards. They themselves are able to regulate the voltage level and provide even light, without flickering. Plus they are safer and less fire hazardous in operation and have a longer service life.

There can be many options for implementing electronic ballasts, but there are two main launch methods:

  • the sources are preheated; this helps increase the efficiency of the device and reduce its flicker
  • using an oscillatory circuit; the filament in this case is part of it; when a discharge passes, the circuit parameters change, as a result the voltage drops to the required level

You can get rid of annoying humming and blinking by replacing the old throttle with a modern electronic ballast. To do this you should:

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Using lamps for greenhouse growing plants

PROS:

  • The first significant advantage of such devices is significant energy savings. The latest generation of light sources operating on this principle consume 4-5 times less energy than conventional incandescent lamps.
  • In addition to high light output, a positive point is the long service life. It can be 12-25 thousand hours. Such devices are often used for contrast lighting of large areas (offices, shopping centers, schools) or street lighting. They are used in transport, in street lamps, tunnels.

MINUSES:

  • The need to connect additional devices (starters and chokes)
  • Dominance of yellow light in the spectrum and distortion of the color rendition of illuminated objects
  • Significant dimensions of the bulb, which makes it difficult to evenly redistribute the light flow
  • The intensity of light in such sources can be influenced by the ambient temperature.
  • The lamp does not warm up immediately; It gains full brightness after some time, sometimes it can last 10-15 minutes
  • significant pulsation of light, which can adversely affect vision
  • The presence, even in minimal quantities, of mercury, which is hazardous to human, plant and animal health

The latest developments by scientists are compact fluorescent lighting sources that are similar in appearance to conventional incandescent lamps. They are equipped with a standard socket and can be easily screwed into any chandelier or floor lamp. No modernization is required.

All ballasts (ballasts) are located in the cartridge itself or are carried out separately in small blocks. Such devices are often called energy-saving.

Comparison of parameters of different lighting sources

But in recent years, users have preferred to connect modern LED lamps instead of fluorescent lamps. The operating principle of these devices is significantly different. Luminescent flasks are filled with gas and mercury vapor, and light radiation is generated by heating the tungsten spiral. In LED devices, the light emitter is a group of diodes or a single LED. It is he who converts the current into light rays as it flows through the semiconductor.

Such devices are not only more durable and less dangerous (damage to luminescent ones can result in mercury entering the human body). The efficiency of LED lighting sources is much higher, so they are more economical. The connection diagram for a fluorescent or LED lamp in both cases is as simple as possible - you just need to screw its socket into the base.

For details on how to connect fluorescent lamps, see the following video:

How to modernize an old lamp

To use new technologies, it is not necessary to purchase modern equipment if you order a universal kit for converting an Armstrong lamp into an LED one. This kit contains LED strips with ready-made mounting holes. It is worth noting that the products should not be deformed, create new holes or change the device in any way, as this will void the warranty in case of breakdown.

The Reled catalog presents LED lighting systems that are produced for a specific chip model. Thanks to its clever design, there is no need to use anything to provide additional cooling. The products operate in a comfortable temperature regime, which prevents the destruction of chips from exposure to high temperatures. Thanks to this, your purchase will last for a long period without failures.

How to connect a fluorescent lamp to the network - options and diagrams

The popularity of fluorescent lamps is due to several factors. The most important of them are their cost-effectiveness, operating efficiency, as well as uniform light emitted from a sufficiently large surface area. But in addition to these qualities, you need to know the rules for connecting fluorescent lamps. For this, several types of circuits and additional devices are used.

Features of the functioning of luminescent devices

The operation of these light sources is based on the effect of the formation of IR radiation by mercury vapor under the influence of an electric discharge. In practice, to do this, a spiral cathode-anode pair is placed in a glass flask, and the inner surface of the lamp is treated with a phosphor solution. Then the structure is filled with a complex mixture, the main component of which is mercury vapor.

When an electric current is applied, a discharge occurs, which causes the lamp to glow. But unlike similar incandescent models, the discharge value must be clearly standardized. Only if this condition is met is a uniform process of light formation possible.

To accomplish this, two types of devices are used:

  1. EMPA – ballast. It is better known as a choke. Can be used in conjunction with a starter.
  2. electronic ballast. A more reliable and technologically advanced way to control the operation of a fluorescent lamp. Its use almost completely eliminates the characteristic blinking of the lamp.

Currently, schemes with the installation of electronic ballasts have become more widespread. This is due to their low cost and the ability to connect several lamps.

Specifics of application of electronic ballasts

To use electromagnetic starting, you will need a compensation capacitor, a choke and a starter. In order to ensure reliable operation of the circuit, all internal wiring must be made with PUGV wires.

Circuit for one lamp

For a better understanding, it is necessary to consider all stages of inclusion:

  • After contact K is closed, electric current is supplied to the starter. It is a small gas discharge lamp. At the same time, a glow discharge begins to form in it, the voltage value of which is less than in the network, but more than normalized for the main lighting device.
  • Then thermal expansion of the electrodes occurs, as a result of which they are connected, forming an electrical circuit. The amount of current flowing through it directly depends on the parameters of the inductor. It should exceed the number number for the lamp by 1.5-2 times.
  • At this time, the cathode-anode pair is preheated in the lamp to form a discharge in a gaseous environment. After opening the inductor electrodes, a high self-induction current appears. The capacitor reduces this value to the desired level.
  • A sharp increase in voltage provokes the appearance in the flask of a large number of charged particles, which lead to the formation of plasma and, as a consequence, a gas discharge.

Using the same principle, you can connect two fluorescent lamps. The processes occurring in this chain are almost completely similar to those described above.

Connecting two lights

The disadvantages of this connection method include the short service life of chokes and starters. This is due to the specifics of the processes that occur in them.

Connection using electronic ballasts

It is much more effective to use electronic ballasts - electronic ballasts. Its operating principle differs from EmPRA. This device supplies high-frequency voltage to the lamp contacts, the value of which can vary from 25 to 130 Hz.

To connect the device correctly, just read the instructions first. In most cases, the connection diagram consists of the following steps.

  1. Connecting contacts to the electrical network.
  2. Connecting wires to filament terminals. Each of them will require two contacts.

The advantages of using this starting device include significant energy savings, increased service life, as well as a complete absence of flicker and noise typical of fluorescent lighting devices.

How to convert a linear fluorescent light into an LED one

If you have a lamp with a linear body, converting it into an LED version is not difficult. The easiest way is to use diode strips. There are even options for connecting to a 220V network without special power drivers. Their peculiarity is that all LEDs are connected in series and the output of one of them will render the entire segment inoperable.

The connection diagram is very simple:

Characteristics of 220V LED strip:

  • Matrix type
    : SMD 5050;
  • number of diodes per linear meter
    : 60 pcs. (60 x 3.5V = 210V);
  • load power
    : 10W;
  • luminous flux
    : 2100Lm.

In terms of brightness, a meter of such tape will correspond to an ordinary 100W incandescent light bulb.

Design advantages

:

  • Very simple and quick installation and connection.

Design flaws

:

  • Due to the lack of a smoothing capacitor, the LEDs flicker at a frequency of 100 Hz. According to sanitary standards, such lighting sources cannot be used in residential premises.
  • Along the entire length of the tape there are a large number of contact pads through which 220V voltage passes. To prevent short circuits, this type of tape is produced only in a sealed case, which makes repairs difficult if one of the diode matrices burns out.
  • The minimum segment length of 50cm makes it difficult to create compact structures.

The main disadvantage of such tapes is high-frequency flicker. It is practically not perceived by vision, but causes rapid fatigue when performing precise work or reading. The problem is partially solved by installing a high-voltage capacitor in front of the diode bridge at the rate of 60-70 μF x 500V per 10W of tape power.

Typical ballast circuit

The electronic ballast design uses an active power factor correction, ensuring compatibility with the electrical network. The basis of the corrector is a powerful boost pulse converter controlled by a special integrated circuit. This provides rated operation with a power factor close to 0.98. The high value of this coefficient is maintained in any operating mode. Voltage changes are allowed in the range of 220 volts + 15%. The corrector ensures stable illumination even with significant changes in network voltage. To stabilize it, an intermediate DC circuit is used.

An important role is played by the mains filter, which smoothes out high-frequency ripples of the supply current. Together with the corrector, this device strictly regulates all components of the consumed current. The line filter input is equipped with a protective unit with a varistor and a fuse. This allows you to effectively eliminate network overvoltages. A thermistor having a negative temperature coefficient of resistance is connected in series with the fuse, which ensures that the input current surge is limited when the electronic ballast is connected from the inverter to the network.

In addition to the main elements, the ballast circuit for fluorescent lamps requires the presence of a special protection unit. With its help, the status of the lamps is monitored, as well as their shutdown in case of malfunction or absence. This device monitors the current consumed by the inverter and the voltage supplied to each lamp. If during a certain period of time the specified voltage or current level exceeds the set value, then the protection is triggered. The same thing happens during a load circuit break.

The executive element of the protective unit is a thyristor. Its open state is maintained by current passing through a resistor installed in the ballast. The value of the ballast resistance allows the thyristor current to maintain the on state until the supply voltage is removed from the electronic ballast.

The electronic ballast control unit is powered through a mains rectifier when current passes through the ballast resistor. Reducing the power of the electronic ballast and improving its efficiency allows the use of smoothing circuit current. This circuit connects to the point where the inverter transistors connect. Thus, the control system is powered. The construction of the circuit ensures that the control system is launched at the initial stage, after which the power circuit is started with a slight delay.

Advantages of different types of ballasts

Before choosing and, especially, buying ballast of one type or another, it makes sense to understand their differences from each other. The advantages of EmPRA include:

  • moderate cost;
  • high reliability;
  • Possibility of connecting two lamps of half power.

Electronic ballasts appeared much later than their throttle counterparts, which means they have a longer list of advantages:

  • small dimensions and weight;
  • with the same light output, energy consumption is 20% lower than that of electronic ballasts;
  • almost do not heat up;
  • operate absolutely silently (EMPRA often hums);
  • no lamp flickering at mains frequency;
  • lamp life is 50% higher than with a choke;
  • The lamp starts instantly, without “blinking”.

But, of course, you have to pay for all these advantages - the cost of an electronic device is significantly higher than the price of a throttle device, and reliability, alas, is still lower. In addition, if the power of the electronic ballast is lower than the power of the lamp, then, unlike the electromagnetic one, it will simply burn out.

Electronic ballast device

As can be seen from the circuit diagram, the starter in the form of an electronic ballast is a kind of voltage converter. A miniature inverter converts direct current into high frequency alternating current. This current is supplied to the heating electrodes. The heating intensity of these electrodes increases. The converter is turned on in such a way that in the first stages the current frequency is high. The fluorescent lamp itself is included in a circuit whose resonant frequency is lower than the initial frequency of the converter. Subsequently, the frequency decreases, and the voltage, and the voltage on the oscillating circuit and on the lamp increases, as a result of which the circuit begins to approach resonance. At the same time, the degree of heating of the electrodes increases. This leads to the creation of conditions for the occurrence of a discharge in the gas mixture and the phosphor coating of the flask begins to glow.

The electronic ballast is designed in such a way that the control device can adapt to the characteristics of the fluorescent lamp. This makes it possible to maintain the original light characteristics of the lighting device for a long time. As fluorescent lamps wear out, they require more and more voltage to reach the initial discharge point. The electronic ballast independently adapts to the changes that have occurred and the quality of lighting remains the same.

Compared to throttle ballast, electronic ballast has several advantages:

  • it provides greater efficiency during operation;
  • makes it possible to create conditions for gentle heating of the electrodes;
  • ensures smooth switching on of the lamp;
  • the use of electronic balance makes it possible to overcome such a disadvantage of fluorescent lighting as flickering;
  • makes it possible to use fluorescent lamps in cold conditions;
  • increases temporary performance characteristics;
  • has much less weight and dimensions.

The disadvantages of electronic ballast include high requirements for the quality of components, as well as the accuracy of installation, and the complexity of the connection diagram.

Where to get the frame

If you want to remake an old lamp, floor lamp, sconce whose old lampshade has become unusable, you can simply use the existing base, stripping off the old material. Before starting work, take a good look at the frame; if there is rust or damaged coating somewhere, maybe it’s worth stripping everything off and painting it again? At the same time, the color can be changed. If there are no old frames, you can buy an inexpensive lamp (in a store or at a flea market) and do the same operations with it. By the way, good lampshades can be made from waste baskets. There are wire ones and there are plastic ones. The main thing is to find the right shape and size. Then make a hole in the bottom for the cartridge. Then it’s a matter of decoration/plating, but here there are a lot of options.

If this method is not available, you can make a lampshade without a frame (there are some) or make the frame yourself. The material for making a frame for a lampshade with your own hands is: wire, wood (wooden or bamboo sticks, specially cut elements), plastic bottles.

How to make a frame for a homemade lampshade from wire

The wire for the lamp frame needs aluminum or steel. Aluminum is easy to work with, but it wrinkles easily. This is not very important when the lampshade is already in use, but this fact must be taken into account during work: the shape can be ruined. On the other hand, such plasticity allows you to easily and simply make changes to the shape during work. So it's a good option. Aluminum wire can be “mined” from electrical cables. You will have to remove the protective shell and you can use it.

Steel wire is more elastic, so it retains its shape well. You can look for it on the construction market. It's more difficult to work with. It is advisable to have strong male hands nearby.

In addition to the wire, you will need powerful wire cutters and pliers for the job. The lampshade frame usually consists of two rings and posts connecting them. The shape of the future lampshade depends on the size of the rings and the shape of the stands. Questions may arise regarding the number of racks and methods of their fastening. The number of posts depends on the size of the rings and how “round” you want the lampshade to be. The more stands, the smoother the fabric will lie. So it’s up to you to choose, but the optimal distance between the posts in the bottom circle is about 5-6 cm.

Techniques for creating a wire lampshade frame

How you attach the stack to the lampshade rings depends on the thickness and type of wire, as well as the tools you have. The easiest way is to make a small hook at the end, then clamp it tightly. To prevent the ring from sliding left and right, first sand the wire at the attachment point with coarse sandpaper. This is an option for thick aluminum wire. If the wire is steel, with a diameter of 1.2-2 mm or more, the best way is. Thinner wire can be bent and wrapped around a ring or also made into a hook.

If you make hooks and wrap wire, the appearance is far from being as ideal as that of factory frames. But this imperfection will be covered by the lampshade itself. If you still care about it, find a ribbon of a suitable color (usually matched to the color of the lampshade) and carefully wrap the resulting frame. It will get much better. The tape can be coated with PVA glue and, wet, tightly, turn by turn, wrapped around the frame.

Wire mesh

If you can find a mesh of thin wire, you can quickly make an almost perfect cylindrical lampshade for a floor lamp, table lamp, night light, lampshade for placing a candle, etc. All you need to do is cut a piece of mesh of the required length and width, roll it into a ring and secure the wires by wrapping them around the posts.

To prevent the mesh from straightening out, when cutting a piece, cut so that there are long free ends on both sides. We will use them to fasten the cylindrical lampshade. And the imperfection of the upper and lower rings can be masked with a ribbon of the desired color.

From a five liter plastic bottle

An interesting shaped lampshade can be made from a large plastic bottle. There are bottles for 5-6 liters and even 10. These are what you can use. Cut off the top or bottom of the container, depending on what you like best. In the cut off part we make a ring for the cartridge. If the top is cut off, a neck can be used for some cartridges. For those with a larger diameter, it will have to be cut off.

Then we cut out the excess plastic and form the rims and pillars of the lampshade. To avoid mistakes, you can first draw all the lines with a marker. It will be easier to cut. Everything is elementary. Then we just decorate. And yes, it is necessary to cut out the plastic, otherwise the warm air will have nowhere to go.

Circuits with starter

The very first circuits with starters and chokes appeared. These were (in some versions they are) two separate devices, each of which had its own socket. There are also two capacitors in the circuit: one is connected in parallel (to stabilize the voltage), the second is located in the starter housing (increases the duration of the starting pulse). This whole “economy” is called electromagnetic ballast. The diagram of a fluorescent lamp with a starter and choke is shown in the photo below.

Connection diagram for fluorescent lamps with starter

Here's how it works:

  • When the power is turned on, current flows through the inductor and enters the first tungsten coil. Next, through the starter it enters the second spiral and leaves through the neutral conductor. At the same time, the tungsten filaments gradually heat up, as do the starter contacts.
  • The starter consists of two contacts. One is fixed, the second is movable bimetallic. In normal condition they are open. When current passes, the bimetallic contact heats up, which causes it to bend. By bending, it connects to a fixed contact.
  • As soon as the contacts are connected, the current in the circuit instantly increases (2-3 times). It is limited only by the throttle.
  • Due to the sharp jump, the electrodes heat up very quickly.
  • The starter bimetallic plate cools down and breaks contact.
  • At the moment the contact breaks, a sharp voltage surge occurs across the inductor (self-induction). This voltage is enough for electrons to break through the argon medium. Ignition occurs and the lamp gradually enters operating mode. It occurs after all the mercury has evaporated.

The operating voltage in the lamp is lower than the mains voltage for which the starter is designed. That's why it doesn't work after ignition. When the lamp is working, its contacts are open and it does not participate in its operation in any way.

This circuit is also called electromagnetic ballast (EMB), and the operating diagram of an electromagnetic ballast is called EMBRA. This device is often simply called a choke.

One of the EmPRA

There are quite a few disadvantages to this fluorescent lamp connection scheme:

  • pulsating light, which negatively affects the eyes and they quickly get tired;
  • noise during start-up and operation;
  • inability to start at low temperatures;
  • long start - about 1-3 seconds pass from the moment of switching on.

Two tubes and two chokes

In luminaires with two fluorescent lamps, two sets are connected in series:

  • the phase wire is supplied to the inductor input;
  • from the throttle output it goes to one contact of lamp 1, from the second contact it goes to starter 1;
  • from starter 1 it goes to the second pair of contacts of the same lamp 1, and the free contact is connected to the neutral power wire (N);

The second tube is also connected: first the choke, from it to one contact of lamp 2, the second contact of the same group goes to the second starter, the starter output is connected to the second pair of contacts of the lighting device 2 and the free contact is connected to the neutral input wire.

Connection diagram for two fluorescent lamps

The same connection diagram for a two-lamp fluorescent lamp is demonstrated in the video. This might make it easier to deal with the wires.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=8fF5KQk4L2k

Connection diagram for two lamps from one choke (with two starters)

Almost the most expensive in this scheme are the chokes. You can save money and make a two-lamp lamp with one choke. How - watch the video.

Operating principle of a fluorescent lamp

Fluorescent lamps take advantage of the ability of mercury vapor to emit infrared waves under the influence of electricity. This radiation is transferred into the range visible to our eyes by phosphor substances.

Therefore, an ordinary fluorescent lamp is a glass bulb, the walls of which are coated with a phosphor. There is also some mercury inside. There are two tungsten electrodes that provide electron emission and heating (evaporation) of mercury. The flask is filled with an inert gas, most often argon. The glow begins in the presence of mercury vapor heated to a certain temperature.


Basic design of a fluorescent fluorescent lamp

But normal network voltage is not enough to evaporate mercury. To begin work, start-up and control devices (abbreviated as ballasts) are turned on in parallel with the electrodes. Their task is to create a short-term voltage surge necessary to start the glow, and then limit the operating current, preventing its uncontrolled increase. These devices - ballasts - come in two types - electromagnetic and electronic. Accordingly, the schemes are different.

Electronic ballast

Electronic starting and maintaining the combustion of fluorescent lamps was developed back in the eighties and began to be used in the early nineties of the twentieth century. The use of electronic ballast has made fluorescent lighting 20% ​​more economical.

At the same time, all characteristics of the luminous flux were preserved and improved. Uniform, flickering-free lighting is stable even with network voltage fluctuations.

This was achieved thanks to the increased frequency of the current supplied to the lamps and the high efficiency of electronic devices.

Smooth start-up and soft operating mode made it possible to almost double the service life of the lamps. Additionally, it became possible to smoothly control the brightness of the lamp. The need to use starters has disappeared. Radio interference disappeared with them.

The operating principle of electronic ballast differs from electromagnetic ballast. At the same time, it performs the same functions: heating the gas, igniting and maintaining combustion. But, it makes it more accurate and softer. Various circuits use semiconductors, capacitors, resistors and a transformer.

Electronic ballasts can have different circuit designs depending on the components used. Simplified, the passage of current through the circuit can be described by the following algorithm:

  1. Voltage is supplied to the rectifier.
  2. The rectified current is processed by an electronic converter, using a microcircuit or self-oscillator.
  3. Next, the voltage is regulated by thyristor switches.
  4. Subsequently, one channel is filtered by a choke, the other by a capacitor.
  5. And through two wires the voltage is supplied to a pair of lamp contacts.
  6. The other pair of lamp contacts is closed through a capacitor.

An advantageous difference between electronic systems is that the voltage supplied to the contacts of the lamps has a higher frequency than that of electromagnetic ones. It varies from 25 to 140 kHz. That is why in electronic ballast systems the flickering of lamps is minimized and their light is less tiring for the human eye.

Most manufacturers indicate connection diagrams for lamps to electronic ballasts and their power on the top side of the device. Therefore, consumers have a clear example of how to properly assemble and connect the device to the network.

Electronic ballasts provide a different number of connected lamps of different power, for example:

  • Philips HF-P series chokes can connect from 1 to 4 tubes with a power of 14 to 40 W.
  • Helvar EL series chokes are designed for one to four lamps with a power from 14 to 58 W.
  • QUICKTRONIC brand Osram type QTP5 also have the ability to control one to four lamps with a power of 14 - 58 W.

Electronic devices have a lot of advantages, of which the following can be highlighted:

  • light weight and small size of the device;
  • fast and fluorescent lamp-saving, smooth switching on;
  • there is no flicker of light visible to the eye;
  • high power factor, approximately 0.95;
  • the device does not heat up;
  • energy savings of 20%;
  • high level of fire safety and absence of risks during work;
  • long service life of luminescent lamps;
  • no high requirements for ambient temperature;
  • ability to automatically adjust to flask parameters;
  • absence of noise during operation;
  • Possibility of smooth adjustment of the light flux.

Noted by many, the only disadvantage of electronic systems is their price. But it is justified by its merits.

LED connection diagrams for 220V

A semiconductor allows current to flow in only one direction. However, in a 220V network there is alternating current, where the direction of the current changes with a frequency of 50 Hz. To compensate for this effect and connect an LED lamp, you need some type of rectifier that can suppress the reverse voltage.

This role is played by a resistor, capacitor, or rectifier bridge. Accordingly, there are several ways to connect an LED to a 220 Volt network. Most often in everyday life, a circuit with a resistor is used, since this method is easy to install and affordable.

How to connect an LED lamp in a serial way

This connection is very easy and is quite suitable for household LED devices and a 220 Volt network.

  1. First, calculate the required resistor power and take into account the need for reverse voltage protection. Theoretically, when connecting an LED with a power of, for example, 3 Volts, an “excess” of 217 Volts is deposited on the resistor. However, in fact, the reverse half-wave in this case is supplied to the LED, and not to the resistor, and since the reverse voltage of semiconductors is small - up to 30 Volts, the device quickly fails.
  2. All elements of the circuit - resistor, protection diode and LED are connected in series.

Important! A resistor with a power of at least 2 W should be installed in the circuit, since the device here heats up noticeably

How to connect an LED lamp to 220V in parallel

You can also connect an LED lamp in parallel. This scheme is more reliable, although it does not eliminate the flickering effect.

  1. The indicator diode is connected in parallel with the LED. The diode must be reverse connected. During the first half-wave, the indicator diode operates, and during the second, the LED operates. The voltage dropped across the latter does not exceed 1 Volt, which makes such a circuit more durable.
  2. The power of the resistor should be excessive here too - it heats up.

The parallel installation of 2 LEDs can reduce the flickering effect. When connected to a 220V network, 1 LED turns on at one half-wave, and parallel to it at the second. With this arrangement, both elements are adequately protected from excess reverse voltage.

Important! The flickering effect cannot be completely eliminated in this case either.

Diagram for connecting an LED to a 220 volt network using a beam connection

Powering the LED from a 220V network in this way is the best option, since the method prevents excessive heating of all parts of the circuit and eliminates flickering visible to the eye. In addition, a circuit that includes a capacitor consumes less current. The disadvantage of the circuit is that connecting LED lamps takes more time and involves a circuit of a large number of elements.

  1. Instead of a resistor, the main load of current rectification is taken on by a capacitor. It is necessary to use a film device - the electrolyte is not suitable. Designed for a voltage of at least 250 Volts, and preferably 400 Volts.
  2. A resistor is connected in parallel to the capacitor. Its task is to discharge the capacitor after the lamp is disconnected from the 220 Volt network.
  3. A diode bridge is connected in parallel to the LED - it can be purchased ready-made, or you can make it yourself from 4 diodes with suitable characteristics. The maximum bridge current should be higher than that of the LED. Possible reverse voltage is at least 400 Volts. The bridge is connected in the opposite direction compared to the LED element.
  4. In series with the capacitor, another resistor is inserted into the circuit - a current-limiting one. Its purpose is to protect the circuit from accidental power surges in a 220 Volt network.

In this scheme, all elements heat up slightly, which ensures high durability and reliability.

Circuit for bypassing an LED with a conventional diode

The need for bypass surgery has been proven by practice. The theoretical diagram for connecting an LED without an additional element turns out to be untenable.

The operating circuit includes a conventional indicator diode with the same polarity as the LED device. In this case, the excessively high voltage of the reverse wave settles on the diode element, and the LED can no longer break through the residual voltage. The diode is mounted between the resistor and the LED.

Conversion of a lamp with electronic ballast

If the model of the illuminator is more modern - an electronic ballast choke and no starter - you will have to make an effort and change the connection diagram of the LED tubes. Components of the lamp before replacement:

  • throttle;
  • wires;
  • cartridge pads located on both sides of the body.

We get rid of the throttle first, because... without this element the design will become lighter. Unscrew the fastening and disconnect the power wires. Use a narrow-tipped screwdriver or pliers for this.

The main thing is to connect 220 V to the ends of the tube: apply phase to one end, and zero to the other.

LEDs have a peculiarity - 2 contacts on the base in the form of pins are rigidly connected to each other. And in fluorescent tubes, the contacts are connected by a filament, which, when heated, ignites mercury vapor.

Lighting devices with electronic ballasts do not use a filament, and a voltage pulse breaks through between the contacts.

It is not so easy to supply 220 V between contacts with a hard connection.

To make sure the voltage is correct, use a multimeter. Set the device to resistance measurement mode, touch the two contacts with the measuring probes and take measurements. The multimeter display should show a zero value or close to it.

LED lamps have a filament between the output contacts, which has its own resistance. After applying voltage through it, the filament heats up and causes the lamp to work. Further connection of the LED lamp is recommended to be done using 2 methods:

  • without dismantling cartridges;
  • with dismantling and installing jumpers between the contacts.

How to check the lamp's performance

After connecting, check the operation of the circuit with a tester. The resistance of the cathode filaments should not exceed 10 Ohms.


Checking the functionality of the circuit.

Sometimes the tester shows infinite resistance. This doesn't mean it's time to throw away the lamp. The device can be turned on with a cold start. Typically the starter contacts are open and the capacitor does not allow DC current to pass through. However, after several touches with the probes, the indicator will stabilize and drop to several tens of ohms.

Power supply from 220V without choke and starter

The fact is that starters periodically fail, and chokes burn out. All this is not cheap, so there are several schemes for connecting a lamp without these elements. You can see one of them in the picture below.

You can choose any diodes with a reverse voltage of at least 1000V and a current not less than the lamp consumes (from 0.5 A). Choose capacitors with the same voltage of 1000V and a capacity of 1-2 µF

Please note that in this connection circuit the lamp terminals are closed to each other. This means that the spirals do not participate in the ignition process and the circuit can be used to ignite lamps where they have burned out

This scheme can be used to illuminate utility rooms and corridors. You can use it in the garage if you do not work on machines there. The light output may be lower than with a classic connection, and the light output will flicker, although this is not always noticeable to the human eye. But such lighting can cause a stroboscopic effect - where rotating parts may appear to be stationary. Accordingly, this can lead to accidents.

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Note: during experiments, keep in mind that starting fluorescent light sources in the cold season is always difficult.

The video below clearly shows how to start a fluorescent lamp using diodes and capacitors:

There is another diagram for connecting a fluorescent lamp without a starter and choke. An incandescent light bulb is used as ballast.

Use an incandescent lamp at 40-60 W, as shown in the photo:

An alternative to the described methods is to use a board from energy-saving lamps. In fact, this is the same electronic ballast that is used with tubular analogues, but in a miniature format.

The video below clearly shows how to connect a fluorescent lamp through an energy-saving lamp board:

2

Connection with electromagnetic ballast - classic scheme

The first fluorescent lamps were switched on via the throttle and starter. Previously, these were separate devices (in some models they still are) with sockets in the lamp body for each. The circuit also has 2 capacitors. One is located in the starter - it prolongs the impulse, the second stabilizes the voltage. All equipment is called electromagnetic ballast.

This type of connection has several advantages:

has passed the test of time and confirmed its reliability; simple; components are inexpensive.

Practical application has revealed many disadvantages, especially in comparison with the electronic circuit for connecting the LDS:

consumes 15%!b (MISSING) more electricity; heavy lighting device; takes a long time to turn on, especially when the lamp gets old; works poorly in the cold; throttle hums, the sound increases over time; light flickers, which is bad for vision. Circuit for one lamp

When installing, first insert the starter into the socket to connect to the filaments in the bulb. A choke is connected to the free contacts. A capacitor is installed in parallel on the network wires.

Serial connection of two light bulbs

The method involves operating two lamps with one ballast. For implementation, an induction choke and starters are required.

It is necessary to connect a starter to each lamp , maintaining parallel connections. The free contacts of the circuit are sent to the network through the inductor. Capacitors are connected to the contacts to reduce interference and stabilize the voltage.

High starting currents in the circuit often cause sticking of the contacts in the switches, so choose high-quality models that are not greatly affected by the network parameters.

↑ Transformer LED drivers

High lighting and electrical parameters over a wide range of mains voltage variations are provided by pulsed AC/DC and DC/DC converters [7 – 10].
They do not have the disadvantages of drivers based on a linear current stabilizer. These converters have good isolation between the AC mains and the LEDs, have high efficiency, power factor PF and low harmonic coefficient THD of the current consumed from the mains. There are also some drawbacks here: - Relatively high cost; - Difficulty; - Large dimensions.

↑ List of sources used

1. Moroz K. Network LED lamp // Radio, 2013, No. 3, p. 26, 27. 2. Do LEDs have a “dark side”? // Radio pilot, 2014, January, p. 19 – 25. 3. Nechaev I. Unusual application of the KR142EN19A microcircuit // Radio, 2003, No. 5, p. 53, 54. 4. Technical documentation for electronic components of the TL431CLP family: pinout, typical application circuits. 5. Datagorsk article - Chinese toy “Drawing Projector” and a word about the proper nutrition of the LED. 6. Okhrimenko V. LED drivers // Electronic components and systems, 2014, No. 2 – 3, February – March, p. 14 - 22. 7. Brown M. Power sources. Calculation and design. – Kyiv, MK-Press, 2007. 8. Kosenko S. Network LED lamp with power supply on the Viper22A chip // Radio, 2010, No. 4, p. 21 – 23. 9. Kosenko S. LED lamp with SMPS - current stabilizer // Radio, 2010, No. 12, p. 17 – 19. 10. Lazarev V., Golubin D. Power supply for an 8 W LED lamp on the HV9961 // Radio, 2015, No. 5, p. 36, 37.

↑ Selecting the number of lamp LEDs

For most super-bright LEDs with a diameter of 3 and 5 mm, as well as unpackaged LEDs of similar dimensions, the direct voltage drop is 3...3.7 V.
The lamp is not afraid of short circuits in the load; in this case, the maximum power dissipated on the collector VT1 will be 0.02·296≈6 W.

To increase the efficiency of the lamp, it is necessary to ensure low power dissipation on the collector VT1, based on operation in the widest possible range of network voltages.

For example, packageless LEDs from Chinese LED lamps have a forward voltage drop in the range from 2.98 to 3.05 V. We select the number of LEDs N = 85; in this case, the voltage on the collector VT1 will change from 10 to 69 V when the mains voltage changes by ±10%.

The LEDs are placed on a printed circuit board made of single-sided foil fiberglass 2 mm thick, which is part of a circle with an internal diameter of 96.5 mm and an external diameter of 120 mm. The printed circuit board is not shown, since it takes into account the specifics of a particular lamp.

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