Making a valve desiccant with your own hands: description, diagrams

When repairing a car engine, the majority of parts are dismantled using standard mechanic tools. In some cases you may need a special device - valve depressurizer. Its task is to help the driver remove the valve cotter.

The valve desiccant is indispensable when repairing the cylinder head.

Depressuring valves on an Audi A6 - video

First of all, you need to figure out what a cracker is, where it is located on the valves and why it must be removed only with the help of special tools. The task of both the intake and exhaust valves is to close the window very tightly and open it only at the necessary moment.

In order for the valve to be firmly held in the seat, two return springs are put on its rod, pressing on the plate, which in turn is connected to the rod by means of crackers. They are a small cylinder divided into two halves. Inside them, the surface has a spike that fits into the valve groove. Their outer diameter in the assembly is larger than the hole in the plate, which has a special seat.

Thus, the crackers are always securely held, and the force of the springs does not allow them to be removed and the valve released. Although today you can find any engine repair tool on sale, if you have metal processing skills, you can make a desiccant device with your own hands. Those drivers who are used to doing everything with their own hands will make the device quickly and easily.

The design of the device is very simple. To make it, you need to prepare three elements:

• Lever arm;
• holding bracket;
• bracket for pressing on the plate.

To make a lever, a piece of metal tube with a diameter of 1.5 to 3 cm and a length of up to 50 cm is suitable. Both brackets are made according to the same design, but with the only difference that the first must have a hole for attaching it to the head stud, and the second must have a thrust washer , which in internal diameter should be smaller than the valve plate, but larger than its internal hole.

How can you not remove the valve retainer?

Some unfortunate craftsmen suggest using a piece of pipe or a spark plug wrench to remove the crackers. The tube is placed at one end on the valve plate, and the other is struck with a hammer.

Shifting under the impact, the plate releases the crackers, and they fly out of their seats. Considering that they often stick, then we have every chance of bending the valve plate or stem. It is more humane for the “health” of the valve, and for your wallet, to use a special device - a desiccant.

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How to remove crackers with your own hands?

The technology for removing cracker cylinders is, in fact, simple for those motorists who are not afraid to repair their cars themselves. You just need to follow the dismantling flow chart and use a special tool.

So, let's start desiccant and to do this we will do the following: The desiccant bracket with the hole is secured with a nut on the head stud or screwed with a bolt. The second bracket is installed on the valve plate and pressure is applied to the free end of the lever. Moving down the valve, the plate exposes the crackers, which are carefully removed. Once the lever is released, the springs and valve can be removed.

If you can remove the crackers using improvised means, then you won’t be able to install them back without our device. That is why, when starting a repair, you need to visit a specialized store or make a valve depressurizer yourself.

What is a valve spring retainer?

The valve spring retainer is a small part that consists of two identical parts; if you put these parts together, you get a conical cylinder. On the inside of the crackers there are fastenings, with the help of which the cracker is attached to the valve stem. The valve stem must have grooves into which the fasteners for the cracker are inserted.

The valve spring is always compressed. Trying to unclench, she pushes the valve plate up. The valve plate compresses the nut around the valve stem. The cracker, which holds onto the grooves on the valve stem, prevents the plate from moving upward and thereby decompressing the valve spring. This is what secures the valve to the valve seat.

What is a desiccant and why is it needed?

Device for installing timing valve cotters, product code: 49455, article number: ai010012a

To begin with, it’s worth remembering how the valves are held in the gas distribution mechanism of any engine. So, the intake and exhaust valves are held closed by a spring. It, in turn, is fixed on the valve stem with a plate and crackers.

To remove the valve, you need to compress the spring and remove the crackers. The desiccant should cope with exactly this task.

Of course, experienced motorists know how to remove the valve without this tool - using a spark plug wrench and a hammer. However, this method, firstly, is traumatic, and secondly, it will not help in the future to put the crackers in their place.

There is a special tool to solve the problem. Desiccants are of two main types:

• screw (in the form of a clamp). They only work on the cylinder head removed from the engine;
• lever (universal). With them there is no need to remove the head;

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The first option allows you to free the master’s hands by holding the spring in a compressed state. The second option requires the constant participation of at least one hand. It consists of a long lever, a stop and a bracket for fixing to the cylinder block.

Both one type of device and the other are sold in stores. But many products are either of low quality or high cost. Therefore, it is worth looking for drawings for a valve depressurizer in order to make a reliable, inexpensive tool yourself.

Why are there crackers in the engine?

Simple question: how to fix the valve in an internal combustion engine? The question ceases to be so simple if we remember that each valve - both inlet and exhaust - opens and closes with a frequency of 20-25, or even 40 times per second. Under such loads, the simple task of securing a valve becomes very difficult.

Is it possible to screw the valve to the spring with nuts? It is possible, but with constant shock and vibration, the nuts will tend to unwind, and even cotter pins will not give a reliable result. In addition, the threaded connection will be quite complex. It is also impossible to weld the valves “tightly” - in this case repair will be impossible.

That is why a special solution was found for fixing the valves - a crayon connection, which is as simple as it is reliable.

The structure of a crack joint generally comes down to the following. In the upper part of the valve stem (stem) there is an annular groove into which the inwardly directed annular projections of two crackers, shaped like a cylinder cut along the length, are inserted. When the cracks fit into the groove, a cylindrical thickening is formed at the top of the valve, which cannot move along the stem. The crackers rest against the plate that holds the springs and fix the valve in the closed position.

However, the crackers must be fixed so that they do not fall out due to constant vibration, but can still rotate freely in the groove. This is achieved very simply: there is a recess in the upper plate in which the crackers are located, as in a well, and cannot fall out provided that the valve springs do not weaken.

Tool for removing and installing valve cotters

The dry joint has a lot of advantages, but its simplicity is the main difficulty: disassembling such a joint (or, as they say, “de-breaking”) is not an easy task, and it is extremely difficult to cope with it without a special tool. To remove the crackers, you need to do a simple thing - compress the springs so that the crackers come out of the recess in the plate, and then they can be removed literally with your bare hands. But here’s the catch: compressing valve springs is difficult, and if you do it, for example, with two screwdrivers, you can fumble for several tens of minutes, injure your fingers, damage the valve stem, and ultimately achieve dubious success with difficulty.

For desiccation (as well as for installing crackers, which is done in the reverse order and is therefore no less simple), it is better to use a special device that helps to easily compress the springs and, holding them in this position, remove or install the crackers.

The working body of the device is an annular stop, which, when pressed on the springs, compresses them. In a number of designs, the stop consists of two semi-cylindrical parts, which, when compressed, form a cylinder - this is how devices are made in the form of tongs. JTC offers a whole set of pliers with stops of different diameters, which allows you to work with different engines.

Many devices also include another important tool - a magnet, which makes it easy to remove fallen crackers.

DIY valve desiccant

Today I will show you my version of a very necessary tool when repairing an engine, this is a valve depressurizer. When repairing a cylinder head, you cannot do without a desiccant. If you can disassemble it with improvised tools, using a hammer and a tube, then it will not be possible to assemble it using the same method. Although some craftsmen cope with this task using a wrench, I can’t imagine how.

To assemble the dryer I will need:

Materials:

• iron pipe D20 mm. approximately 40 cm and D25 mm approximately 20 cm.
• two 8 mm studs.
• one stud for 14 mm.
• piece of strip 4 x 40 mm.
• nuts, washers, 8 mm engravers.
• 8 mm bolt.
• nuts 14 mm.
• lubricant

Tool:

• welding machine, electrodes
• Angle grinder (grinder)
• spanners
• pliers
• hammer
• and most importantly, a good mood and straight hands.

And so let's get started. First you need to cut two 40 mm tubes from the D25 pipe. (I didn’t find such a pipe at home, so I took the pipes, they were there). If there are drops in the pipe from welding along the seam, they must be wiped off. You also need to remove burrs at the cut site. The D20 pipe will be inserted into these tubes.

Now from the strip 4 x 40 mm. I cut two pieces measuring 20 x 40 mm. You need to drill 8mm holes in these plates.

I weld these plates to the D25 pipe. and set it aside to let it cool.

Next I will need another D25 tube measuring 20 mm. It also needs to be treated from burrs and welding drops from the inside. You need to weld a 14 mm nut to it.

Again I take a D25 mm pipe. You need to cut off a piece of 8 centimeters from it (I got it smaller). This pipe will rest against the spring and compress. Therefore, it is better to make it larger; it will be more convenient to install the “crackers”. I cut out a “window” in it.

I weld an enlarged washer to it by 8 mm.

I weld a 8 bolt to the 14 nut, strictly perpendicular. I took a bolt that was too long and had to cut off the extra ones.

Now I assemble this unit as in the photo below.

I install washers on both sides. I tighten the nut so that the tube can rotate freely. I fix the nut by welding.

I anointed this joint with oil for better glide. On a 14 mm stud. screwed on the nut and welded it. I'm collecting. This is what happened.

The end result was such a mess. Minimum spare parts, maximum benefits.

Now you need to install and check how it works. To install, you need to screw it with 8 mm studs. into existing holes in the head. Direct the cracker towards the installed spring and turn the pin clockwise with a wrench. This compresses the spring. After installing the “crackers”, unscrew and move to the next valve and so on all 16 valves.

1ou › Blog › How to dry valves: cylinder head 2112 VAZ 16 cl.

How to make a valve desiccant yourself
How to desiccate valves 16 cl. VAZ engines quickly and efficiently? what equipment is needed? There is such a method and equipment

You need a screw type desiccant that looks something like this:

Don't forget that the screw pair needs lubrication. In this case, I used the first one I came across - it turned out to be graphite lubricant no_name made in Russia. If the screw is not lubricated, it will be difficult to turn under load.

The head of the desiccant presented above is homemade; the old head is removed by cutting and drilling out the rivets.

The new one is made from a piece of VPG pipe (VodoprovodnoGazovaya) DU (conditional diameter or nominal bore) 20. VPG pipe DU 20 is about 26.8 mm in diameter. Sold at any decent hardware store. Fits.

Using a grinder and a welder we make the following design:

And we fasten it all to the desiccant with bolts, maintaining alignment. The hat can be smoothed, polished and wrapped with tape (to ensure it does not scratch). Those who have a gift for design can select a good thrust bearing and enlarge the screw with a lever. Thus, we have free access to the crackers on one side. And both hands are free.

How to dry - step by step. 1. Take comfortable curved tweezers.

2. Take an oil can with viscous oil (engine oil is also comme il faut... in general, try it) 3. The cylinder head lies on its side (on the plane of the intake or exhaust, respectively)

4

The above-mentioned desiccant compresses the spring (note that a finger can easily fit through there...). 5

Take one cracker, drop a drop of oil into it 6. The cracker is correctly oriented and simply fits into the cylinder head 7. We pick up the cracker that we have in the cylinder head from below with tweezers like this

5. Take one cracker, drop a drop of oil into it 6. The cracker is correctly oriented and simply fits into the cylinder head 7. We pick up the cracker that we have in the cylinder head from below with tweezers like this

and apply it to the valve in the place where the notches are. Due to the forces of surface tension of the oil (or wetting), the cracker sticks to the valve... in short, I don’t know because of what forces, but it sticks to viscous oil))) - easy and simple 8. Turn (you can reach it with your finger) the just installed cracker up and repeat pp. 6-7 with the second cracker 9. Loosen the desiccant screw. Done The whole head is dried in 23 minutes, one hour without fanaticism, without nerves, in warmth and comfort. Even if it doesn’t take an hour, you are 100% sure of the result every time, no nerves or unpredictability, the efficiency is amazing... it’s a pleasure to work.

In stores, under the guise of desiccants, for 100-200 rubles the fruit of the sick imagination of “locksmith Mikhalych”, aka a lever desiccant, is sold:

- You don’t need one like that! With this, drying out (if at all possible) will last at least a day.

There is also a special device for drying i.auto-crystal.rf/u/7b/0…cota-ata-0021-500×500.jpg It took me a long time to figure out how to do all this - it turns out that the crackers are mounted in a device, put on the valve , and then the forks of the device are slightly loosened so that the crackers can slide down the cutouts... in short, I don’t know how to convey it, but it turns out that it’s not ice. Especially not at right angles. The device costs almost 400 rubles, and tweezers cost 30 rubles and tweezers are faster and easier. So there is no point in spending money))))

Learn from others' experiences. Ps: and mentally wish the author health and the reliability of his car

Design and principle of operation of the desiccant

The valve depressurizer is needed in order to smoothly compress the valve spring, hold it in a compressed position, thereby moving the spring mounting plate down and releasing the cracks. After removing the crackers, use a desiccant to gently release the spring so as not to damage anything. It's simple!

Valve seals have many designs, to the point that each series of Mercedes engines requires its own seal. But any desiccant cannot do without the following mandatory elements:

• An annular stop for pressing on the valve plate - most often in the form of a tube with large cuts in the walls to remove crackers through them;
• Depressurizer frame - with which the valve spring is held in a compressed position;
• Handle or screw - which creates the force to compress the valve spring.

Manufacturing of screw desiccant

1. Making a frame bracket. This is the main part of this type of desiccant. It can be cut from a single sheet of metal, but it will be much more convenient to weld it from several pieces of profile or thick steel strips. The dimensions depend on the specific car model, but the average internal indicators are as follows: length of at least 210 mm, width of at least 150. The result is a frame in the form of a large printed letter C.
2. After the bracket is ready, nuts are welded onto the ends of the short sections.
3. A piece of pipe is also welded to one of the bolts. Either a large washer or a valve plate is welded to the second one - this will be a support.
4. The bolts are screwed into the welded nuts so that when screwed they move towards each other and towards the center of the bracket.

Types of desiccant agents and methods of their use

1. Clamp type desiccant

The simplest and most reliable type of universal desiccant. Its only and most important drawback is that it can only be used on a removed cylinder head.

It is a large clamp, on one side of which there is a screw for pressing into the valve, and on the other side a screw with an annular stop for pressing on the valve plate.

To use this depressurizer, you need to install it coaxially on the valve and rotate the screw with an annular stop to compress the valve spring. After this, carefully remove the crackers using a small magnet. It's simple.

Attention! The following is a description of desiccants that can be used without removing the cylinder head. In this case, it is necessary to supply compressed air to the cylinder on which the valve desiccation operation is carried out. Without compressed air, the valve will fall into the cylinder and you will have to remove the cylinder head.

1. Lever type desiccant

Another universal desiccant. Its use does not require removal of the cylinder head. Its disadvantages include the inability to work with some motors due to limited adjustments.

It is a lever, at the end of which there is a plate with a cutout. An annular stop is installed at some distance from the end of the lever. A handle is installed at the other end of the lever for ease of operation.

To use this desiccant, you need to secure the plate to the cylinder head using a suitable bolt. Install the stop ring onto the valve disc. Press the handle with your hand, and carefully remove the crackers using a magnet with your other hand.

1. Desiccant with hooks on the lower coils of the spring

A universal desiccant that allows you to work very quickly.

It is a complex device with hooks that are attached to the lower coils of the spring. Between the hooks there is a ring stop with an adjustment screw, which is driven by a handle located at the top of the device.

To use it, you need to secure the hooks to the lower coils of the spring. Use the adjustment screw to create a slight preload on the valve disc. Use your hand to press the handle of the derusting machine, and with your other hand, carefully remove the crackers using a magnet.

1. Desiccant for engines with central spark plug wells

This type of desiccant is ideal for engines with centrally located spark plug wells. For the most part, such engines are used in BMW cars. The disadvantages of the desiccant include its high price and limited use.

It is a thick guide that is screwed into the spark plug well. The guide has a fitting for connecting the compressed air supply hose to the cylinder. A rocker arm is attached to the guide, on which a bolt with a pressure ring is attached.

To use it, you need to screw the guide into the spark plug well. Adjust the rocker arm and pressure ring bolt so that the ring is positioned above the valve plate. Use a bolt to apply a small amount of preload to the valve spring. Apply compressed air to the cylinder and dry out the valve. Simple and effective.

Other cases in which dismantling of the cylinder head is required

Of course, it is not necessary to remove the cylinder head for every breakdown. This is only necessary if major repairs are needed. Such “major” cases include:

1. Gasket wear.
2. Formation of carbon deposits on parts.
3. Valve deformation.
4. Need to replace guide bushings.
5. Failure of the camshaft, etc.

Of course, repairing it yourself or through a service in any case involves certain financial costs. To ensure smooth operation of the engine, regular diagnostics of the cylinder head are necessary. It is recommended to use high-quality fuel. In addition, try to prevent the car from overheating - because of this, the cylinder head may lead.

If some points remain unclear to you, then you can visually familiarize yourself with the process of replacing valves by watching the video:

Top 5 universal desiccants

If you occasionally work on the cylinder head and depressurize valves, then you definitely need a valve depressurizer. Below I will describe the most popular and cheapest universal desiccants.

This option has the right to life. A lever-type desiccant is usually taken as a sample. The most important advantage of such a desiccant is that you can customize the tool to suit your needs. You can make several pressure rings of different diameters and lengths, or use the holes in the lever to create a wider range of adjustment. All in your hands.

The cheapest and most common desiccant on the Russian market. Its price fluctuates around 250 rubles. Which, you agree, is quite a bit. Produced in the city of Voronezh. It has proven itself to be a reliable and convenient tool. The disadvantages include the fact that it was created specifically for VAZ car engines. The use of this desiccant is difficult on engines of other concerns.

Universal desiccant from the famous company Licota. A wide range of applications have made it very popular. Most often used at small and medium-sized service stations that specialize in engine repair. The kit includes an adapter for supplying compressed air to the cylinder. A depressurizer can hold the valve spring in a compressed position, which will free your hands. The disadvantage is the price. The average price on the market is 5,500 rubles.

A universal desiccant with a hook on the lower coils of the spring from the same company Licota. A very convenient and relatively cheap desiccant. Allows you to very quickly and practically without preliminary preparation carry out the procedure for desiccation of valves. Disadvantages include difficult use on twin-shaft engines, lack of an adapter for supplying compressed air to the cylinder. The average price on the market is 2,400 rubles.

Universal desiccant for engines with central spark plug wells. A very convenient desiccant. Ask service stations that specialize in BMW what desiccant they use? The answer, with almost 100% probability, will be Licota ATA-0035. Ease of use, everything you need in the kit, made this universal desiccant the best for engines with central spark plugs. The average price on the market is 5,000 rubles.

How to make a valve desiccant with your own hands? 2 options to choose from

For this, special devices are used. They press the spring. There are 2 types of such tools:

1. Screw. Instead of a lever, there is a screw mechanism, so you can work alone. The disadvantage is the need to select a tool for a specific car model.
2. Lever type, here the spring is pressed using a lever. A disadvantage of the design is the need to work in pairs. One squeezes the spring, the other removes the crackers with tweezers;

The second type is more difficult to make, but it is much more convenient.

True, the lever can be used on almost any engine model.

Lever desiccant To do this you will need 2 metal strips and a steel pipe of a suitable size.

A grinder and a welding machine will also come in handy. The planks need to be cut to size.

Types of devices for desiccation of valves

There are two types of devices for desiccation of valves , which are fundamentally different from each other:

• The lever desiccant is a universal device. It can be used both with the head removed and without dismantling it (for example, when changing oil scrapers). A significant disadvantage is the need for pair work - while one person presses the spring, the other needs to get the crackers. Making this tool is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
• A screw desiccant is more convenient to use, as it allows you to work alone. The disadvantages of such a tool include the need to dismantle the head and select it for a specific model of the unit. And making this type of valve desiccant with your own hands is more difficult.

What you need to make your own desiccant

To make this device, you will first need suitable materials. For the clamp option you need to have:

• Metal profile or sheet metal 10-15 mm thick;
• A couple of large bolts or studs (screws will be made from them, so the length of each is at least 15 cm);
• Two nuts comparable to the bolts.

For the lever option, you must stock up on the following elements in advance:

• A metal pipe or rod with a diameter of about 15 mm and a length of up to 40-50 cm;
• Two steel strips 20-30 mm wide and 5 cm long. Thickness about 3 mm.
• Two strips 20-30 mm wide, up to 3 mm thick, 15 cm long;
• Two 6x25 mm bolts with nuts and washers;
• Two steel washers (you can make your own). The first has a diameter of 25 mm, a thickness of about 3 mm, and an internal hole of 8 mm. The second has a diameter slightly larger than the spring plates. Its thickness is at least 5 mm.

Of course, it will not be possible to make a valve desiccant without available tools. Required:

• Grinder or hacksaw for metal;
• Welding machine (you will have to make several seams of 2-3 cm each);
• Vise;
• Drill and drill bits for metal;
• Spanners.

Making desiccant

Universal desiccant diagram

You can assemble a universal valve desiccant with your own hands using simple drawings. It is based on a lever with two brackets attached to it. These brackets are attached using screws and nuts to form a hinge joint. To assemble it you need to prepare:

• Bulgarian;
• Welding machine;
• Durable metal bar for lever;
• Two short strips for making brackets (one is approximately half as long as the other);
• A pipe with a diameter slightly larger than the plate covering the springs and approximately 3-5 cm long.

Weld a washer with a diameter of approximately 8 mm to the shortest strip. It will be used to attach the device to the unit. Its other end is attached to the edge of the lever using a hinge method. A prepared piece of pipe is welded to the middle bar, and also attached to the lever, only closer to its center. To put the structure into action, you need to attach the short bracket to the edge of the head, and install the middle part with the pipe on the plate. Pressing the handle of the structure allows you to press the spring down, freeing access to the crackers.

Homemade valve desiccant.

In the article "" I published a photo of a simple lever depressurizer, in the plate of which holes are drilled at the same distance as in the cylinder head (to secure the plate with bolts on the plane of the head) and with which you can decompress the valves without removing the head from the engine (for example, to change valve seals). But such a desiccant has two drawbacks.

The first is that the desiccant plate can be secured to the surface of the head only if the camshaft and its bed covers are first removed. Well, the second drawback is that the lever of this derusting machine must be constantly squeezed by an assistant and struggle with the elasticity of the springs while you are trying to quickly pull out the crackers with tweezers. If there is no assistant, then you will have to somehow tie the pressed lever with a rope, which can be difficult to do in the engine compartment.

Universal desiccant

Such a device consists of a lever and two brackets, hinged to it using screws and nuts or rivets. The bracket located on the edge of the lever serves to secure the device to the head. It most often ends in a thick steel washer with a hole about 8 mm in diameter. To bring the desiccant into working condition, it is put on the camshaft bed mounting stud and secured with a nut. The bracket, located in the middle of the lever, ends with a washer with a diameter slightly larger than the plate of the covering spring and serves to press on it.

If you have the desire and the necessary tools, you can easily make this device yourself. Here is a list of tools needed to make it:

• Hacksaw for metal.
• Drill with drills.
• Semi-automatic welding.

It doesn’t matter if you don’t have a semi-automatic machine, since in this design you only need to make four welding seams, each 1 cm long.

To make this device with your own hands, you need to stock up on the following materials and fasteners:

• A piece of steel pipe with a diameter of about 1.5 cm - 40 cm.
• Screws M 6×25–2 pcs. and nuts for them (also 2 pieces).
• Steel strips 1×5 cm, 3 mm thick – 2 pcs.
• Steel strips 1×15 cm, 3 mm thick – 2 pcs.
• 2 steel washers. One is 2.5 cm in diameter, 3 mm thick with a Ø 8 mm hole in the middle, but the other, unless you are a turner, cannot be made with your own hands. The diameter of the second washer should be 0.6 cm larger than the diameter of the spring plate, and its thickness should be 5 mm. On its working side, a recess should be made 2–3 mm deep with a diameter equal to the outer diameter of the plate. And in the middle make a hole slightly smaller than the recess.

In order to begin assembling the device, you need to make brackets from washers and steel strips. To do this, place the thrust washer with the recess down, and place steel strips diametrically opposite to its edges and weld them. The second knot is made in the same way, the only difference is that the washer is placed arbitrarily. After the welding has cooled, you need to drill a Ø 6.5 mm hole in each strip. They should be located at a distance of 0.3–0.4 cm from the unwelded edges.

After this, use the same drill to drill two holes in the pipe section. One of them is half a centimeter from the edge, the other is in the middle. Now we can assemble our device. Using screws and nuts, attach a bracket with a flat washer to the edge of the lever and another in the middle. After completing the installation, the device is ready for use.

Manufacturing of screw desiccant

1. Making a frame bracket. This is the main part of this type of desiccant. It can be cut from a single sheet of metal, but it will be much more convenient to weld it from several pieces of profile or thick steel strips. The dimensions depend on the specific car model, but the average internal indicators are as follows: length of at least 210 mm, width of at least 150. The result is a frame in the form of a large printed letter C.
2. After the bracket is ready, nuts are welded onto the ends of the short sections.
3. A piece of pipe is also welded to one of the bolts. Either a large washer or a valve plate is welded to the second one - this will be a support.
4. The bolts are screwed into the welded nuts so that when screwed they move towards each other and towards the center of the bracket.

Manufacturing of a lever desiccant

Making a universal valve desiccant with your own hands is also not difficult.

1. Making a lever. To do this, the rod or pipe must be bent so that it takes the form of lightning. In this case, the bend should be shifted to one side. It turns out that the length of one end is about 15 cm.
2. Two through transverse holes are drilled at the short end. The first is at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, the second is at a distance of 12 cm. The diameters correspond to the existing bolts.
3. A U-shaped bracket is made from short strips. Holes for the bolt are drilled at the free ends. The partition is made of a washer with a diameter of 25 mm with a hole in the middle. The bracket is screwed to the outer hole in the lever.
4. A similar bracket is made from long strips and is also attached to the lever using a free hole.

The first bracket will serve to fix the tool on the cylinder block, and the second will act on the valve. Of course, to dry out 16 valves, you will have to frequently rearrange the tool. But it's still better than using a hammer and a spark plug wrench.

Finally, we would like to add that in a number of cases, a high-quality and competently manufactured homemade valve desiccant is in no way inferior to its factory counterpart, and sometimes even surpasses it in a number of indicators. And, of course, the cost of the tool will be noticeably lower compared to similar finished products.

How to use the device

After removing the camshaft, place the outer bracket on the stud that held the bed and screw the nut onto it. Place the shaped washer of the other bracket on the plate covering the valve springs and press the lever with your hand. The outer surface of two crackers folded together is a truncated cone, just like the seat for them in the plate. Therefore, sometimes the plate, when pressed, is held by crackers on the valve stem. In this case, you need to lightly hit the middle of the lever from above with a hammer. When the springs are compressed and the plate moves down the valve stem, use your free hand to take tweezers and use them to remove the crackers from the socket. Remove both springs along with the other parts from the rod and move the device to the next stud.

Screw model of valve depressurizer

It can be made using available materials. Since the model has a clamp structure, it is more convenient to create a desiccant based on it. To make a homemade screw valve depressurizer, we will prepare the following materials:

• Bulgarian;
• Welding machine;
• 2 extended nuts;
• 2 long bolts;
• A piece of pipe, 3-5 cm long, and slightly larger in diameter than a plate;
• A washer with a diameter suitable for the pipe.

Desiccant on a clamp

We cut out the workpiece from the profile so that we can weld the part in the shape of a bracket. The length of the main workpiece is 250 mm, the side pieces are 150 mm. We weld the power frame. For clamps we use extended nuts and long bolts. The nuts are welded to the steel profile, and bolts are inserted into them towards the center of the structure. A piece of iron pipe, approximately 3-5 cm long, is welded onto one of the bolts. Pre-weld one hole in the pipe with a washer of a suitable diameter. Use it to attach (or weld) the tube to the bolt. For use, the desiccant is installed on the block head as follows: a piece of pipe is installed on the spring plate, and with the help of a second bolt this spring is displaced (compressed). After this, crackers are taken out. It's easier to do this with tweezers.

As you can see, making a device for desiccating valves with your own hands is not at all difficult. You will need simple materials and a little time spent to comfortably carry out repairs on your favorite car.

Screw desiccant

Beard on VAZ 2107 drawings with dimensions

These are easier to operate mechanisms. There are several varieties of such instruments. In a garage, you can easily make a rack-and-pinion version, but the disadvantage of such a device is that it is tailored to one engine model. Clamp options are essentially universal. It's easy to make them:

• Made of sheet metal 12-15 mm thick. cut out the bracket, this will be the power frame of the device;
• The clamping bolt is made from any stud of suitable diameter. If you have a lathe, it is better to make the bolt yourself;
• We make a support. To do this, you will have to turn to a turner; the finished element is welded to the bracket;
• We buy a nut, but if you turned the clamping bolt yourself, then it’s better to make that too. The nut is then welded to the support;
• We weld the bushing. First, it is attached to a short pin, which in turn is attached to a bracket. It is better to select a sleeve with holes along the edges, this will make it easier to remove the crackers.

We are conducting sea trials. To do this, the finished device is installed on the block head. In this case, the bushing is placed on the spring plate. The movement is made using the clamping bolt. The sleeve is pressed against the plate and moves it down. Your task is to remove the crackers with tweezers and finish disassembling the valve. If you plan to continue using this valve, you must remember its location. Usually the oil seals are changed at the same time.

For the rack version you will need the actual metal rack. It is welded to the support legs, which are equipped with devices for installation on the head. The rail has a slot along which the die with the pin moves. At the end of the pin there is a piece of pipe. By tightening the pin, you can clamp the valve spring and remove the crackers.

Conclusion

. For a complete and quick engine repair, you need some tools. Thanks to which, you will significantly speed up your work time. Therefore, many are interested in how to make a valve desiccant with their own hands. After all, without this tool it is quite difficult to repair the cylinder head.

Tool for replacing oil seals.

So, before approaching the car, prepare everything you need:

• cap remover - if you don’t have one, you can do without it;
• valve desiccant;
• long-nose pliers or tweezers;
• new valve stem seals in the required quantity (equal to the number of valves in the engine), possibly with a small margin;
• magnetic pointer;
• valve cover gasket;
• tin rod;
• flat screwdriver.

When you have all this in your hands, you can proceed directly to the repair work.

Installation Tips

Before installing the shafts, the piston of the first cylinder must be at the “top dead center”. To achieve this, rotate the crankshaft, grabbing it by the screw securing the generator pulley. Here you need a key “17”.

Alternator pulley and two timing shaft pulleys

The camshafts have spikes and the pulleys have grooves. Each pulley is equipped with a mark that should face up. The diagram shown in the photo corresponds to the upper position of piston 1. This is how the shafts are installed during installation.

You can set the crankshaft according to the mark located on the gearbox assembly (photo 1). This is done before installing the belt.

Various auxiliary elements

To set the tension correctly, use basic tips. Or you can do it simpler: when dismantling, note at what angle the tension roller was fixed. The key plate (photo 2) is set at the desired angle and the fixing nut is tightened (force 40 N*m).

How to screw the cylinder head

The threaded part of the screws is lubricated with engine oil. Then, maintaining a force of 20 N*m, the screws are tightened in the required order (see photo).

Recommended sequence (montage)

Second pass - each screw is turned at an angle of 90 degrees. On the third pass, the screws are turned another 90 degrees.

Chemistry

The bearing housing will be connected to the cylinder head cover. The connection itself must be airtight. A sealant is applied to the edge of the body around the perimeter: KLT-75M, Loctite-574, etc. During installation, the cylinder head gasket is not lubricated in principle - graphite or grease will only cause harm. Someone smears valve stems with graphite lubricant, which is also not correct. You need to use motor oil.

Before installation, the new valve is cleaned of factory grease. It is necessary!

Necessary parts and tools for repair

Troubleshooting the cylinder head begins with the purchase of original parts and various consumables, the list of which is as follows:

1. Fuel intake system valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007010).
2. Exhaust gas valve 8 pcs. (art. 21120-1007012).
3. Set of hydraulic compensators 16 pcs. (art. 21120-1007300).
4. Gaskets for valve cover, cylinder head, intake manifold, exhaust manifold (all come as a set art. 21120-1002064-86).
5. Bolts securing the cylinder head to the engine crankcase (art. 21120-1003271-018).
6. Timing belt (art. 2112-1006040-02RU), timing tension roller (art. KT100507/100513), drive belt for mounted units (art. BP638).
7. Engine oil and oil filter.
8. Cooling system fluid.

Installation of valves on a VAZ 2112 is carried out using a standard set of tools, as well as several specialized types of keys:

• standard set of spanners from 8 to 24 mm;
• socket sockets in a set from 8 to 27 mm;
• end internal hexagons;
• mechanical valve retaining ring remover (depressurizer);
• torque wrench for tightening the cylinder head and camshaft bolts;
• paste for grinding valves (set for rough and fine grinding);
• metalworking cloth gloves to protect hands while working.

The work of replacing 16 valves on a VAZ 2112, the price of which as of this fall is about 50 thousand rubles at AvtoVAZ dealerships (or approximately 35-40 thousand rubles at ordinary car repair shops), is not a very complicated process. You can carry out the work yourself, for which it is enough to purchase the above-described spare parts and the necessary tools.

How to dry valves correctly?

In fact, the technology for dismantling cracker cylinders is a simple task that any non-professional can handle. To do this, you just need to get a technological map and a desiccant.

What are cylinder head and valves? How are they connected?

So, valves in a car are an element of the cylinder head (cylinder head). It is this part that is responsible for the processes of fuel combustion in the engine and the removal of exhaust gases (see figure).

Its components include:

1. Cover to protect against mechanical damage.
2. Rubber gasket that performs the sealing function. It is located in the place where the cover is attached.
3. In the front part of the block there is a camshaft drive and a chain tensioner.
4. Combustion chambers.
5. Threaded holes for injectors and spark plugs.
6. Holes for mounting inlet and outlet manifolds.

The top of the cylinder head also contains other parts, such as camshafts, backing washers, etc. The gas distribution mechanism (GRM) is also located here.

Non-removable parts of the cylinder head include valve seats, which serve to ensure the tightness of the timing belt. Fixed parts also include valve guides.

To avoid this, experts recommend that while driving you periodically pay attention to such points as:

1. Presence of knocking noise while the engine is running.
2. Stopping the engine when starting the car.
3. Reducing compression in cylinders.

The presence of any of these symptoms may indicate a valve malfunction.

Of course, the best solution in such a situation is to contact a service center. However, a difficult financial situation or lack of time often does not allow resorting to the services of professionals. Then you can try to fix the problem yourself.

Features of dismantling

Dismantling includes such actions as:

1. Place a soft stop under the valve.
2. Pressing on the plate.
3. Removing the crackers with tweezers (a screwdriver with a magnet will also work).
4. Moving the plate up. It is important to do everything carefully so that the spring does not bounce off.

Sometimes when pressing on a plate you need to use a striking force, that is, a hammer. There are also special tools. For example, a puller works like a vice.

How to remove crackers incorrectly?

Many people use pieces of pipe or a spark plug wrench to dismantle the crackers: one end of the pipe is placed on the valve plate, and the other is hit hard with a hammer. As a result of the impacts, the crackers are released from the plate, and they jump out of their seats.

However, sometimes sticking may occur during this process, which can result in a bent valve plate or valve stem. Therefore, if you don’t want to “run into” extra financial costs, don’t tempt fate - use a valve desiccant.

Sources

• https://xn--29-6kcd5bg.xn--p1ai/populyarnye-stati/kak-rassuharit-klapana-bez-rassuharivatelya.html
• https://prometey96.ru/lada-remont/rassuharivatel-klapanov-vaz-2112-16.html
• https://PechaleAvto.ru/drugoe/rassuharivatel-vaz-2112-16-klapanov.html
• https://prometey96.ru/ustrojstvo/kak-legko-zasuharit-klapana.html
• https://7gear.ru/avtomobili/kak-rassuharit-klapana-bez-rassuharivatela.html
• https://avto-lover.ru/drugoe/kak-legko-zasuharit-klapana-2.html