DIY circular saw shaft

From a drill

This is not the best option for a miniature circular saw in terms of durability and reliability. If you use a hand drill without making additional changes to the design, then you can offer two options for a circular saw from a drill. The first option will use a chuck, without any changes - the blade of the disk will need to be mounted on the bolt and clamped in the drill chuck. The second option would be to remove the drill chuck and use the spindle to mount the saw. But be that as it may, a hand drill is intended for short-term operation; manufacturers recommend using it continuously for only 2-3 minutes, after which you take a break of at least 5-7 minutes. This tool is designed to work with drills with a maximum diameter of 10-13 mm, so using a circular saw blade with a diameter of even 125 mm on such a saw would hardly be reasonable.

Design and principle of operation

A roller machine consists of several key elements, after studying which its operating principle will become clear. These include:

The supporting element, or as it is also called, the frame. Can be made of sheet steel or cast iron.
Rollers, which can be from two to 4. During self-production, craftsmen recommend installing 3 rolls.
Drive - electric or hydraulic (on manual models a handle is installed to control the rollers).
Control Panel. Various sensors and a monitor are installed on CNC systems.

Working principle step by step:

Initially, a sheet of metal is prepared that will be rolled. It should be smooth, without cracks or grooves. It is placed on two lower rollers. They are separated in different directions in advance.
After this, the master lowers the third shaft towards the sheet in order to securely clamp it between the working parts.
The lower rollers begin to rotate under the influence of a drive or human manual force. The sheet is moving. As it begins to move, it begins to bend around the rollers.

Gradually, the metal blank passes through all the working parts according to the given configurations until the product of the required shape is obtained.

CNC rollers in production

DIY miniature machine made from a washing machine engine

But as for the motor from a washing machine, this is perhaps one of the best motor options for assembling a circular saw at home. Washing machine motors are distinguished by their long service life and endurance. Low shaft speeds are entirely compensated by the design - most washing machine engines have a groove for the pulley key, and the housing itself has convenient holes for fastening. You can increase the speed of the saw blade by installing pulleys of different sizes on the motor and working shaft, or take an electric motor from the centrifuge of the same washing machine. By the way, you can make a machine with a direct drive from a centrifuge engine; such a motor usually has a long shaft, and a small-diameter saw can be mounted directly on it.\

But the main advantage of a washing machine engine is its power. It is designed for a long period of work, and for a circular saw this is the most important thing.

Do-it-yourself three-roll sheet bending rollers

If it is necessary to frequently produce hollow or cone-shaped products from thin sheet metal, the main technological process is bending, and the most suitable equipment is three-roll sheet bending rollers. Why three-roll? Because the kinematic diagram of manually driven four-roll sheet bending machines becomes significantly more complicated, and no visible benefits can be obtained from this.

Circular saw device

The device of a circular saw, like most stationary machines, consists of the following main parts:

Bed or base;
Motor – most often it is an asynchronous electric motor;
Belt drive - pulleys and transmission belt;
Circular saw working shaft;
Desktop;
Security devices;
Electrical equipment.

The entire layout of the device is based on a massive frame or base. It can be a solid part cast from aluminum cast iron, or have the form of a frame - a body assembled from scraps of pipes or corners. It is preferable to make a homemade machine from scraps of profile pipes, for example, you can use square profile pipes 25x25 mm or a rectangular profile 20x40 or 25x50.

The spindle for attaching the circular saw is used in the form of a thread on the shaft. The saw is clamped in this case using a nut. The spindle assembly can be made in a different way, as with a hand-held circular saw - drill a hole in the shaft, cut the internal thread and clamp the disk with a bolt. But as practice shows, the first option is better - the circular saw is clamped more securely, and the thickness of the blade can be selected in different ways.

When using a belt drive, the electric motor and the working shaft are connected by a V-belt. The rotational motion from the motor shaft is transmitted through a pulley to the operating shaft pulley. It is recommended that the circular sawing machine be designed exactly according to this design; this will increase the service life of the motor and eliminate the possibility of jamming. If the circular disk jams, it will stop and the belt will simply stretch, but the engine will continue to run.

A work table is necessary to ensure that the workpiece is in the same plane during work. The table of the circular table is made as wide as possible, so that you can easily rest the part on its plane.

In order for the woodworking circular machine to be safe, devices must be installed to ensure safe operation. This could be a protective casing, a pusher for working with small parts, or a parallel stop.

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One of the options for assembling a simple budget machine for home work is the option of converting a manual circular saw into a stationary one, adding a frame and a wide working surface to the actually finished device.

buy a shaft for a circular saw from aliexpress

Tabletop

A sheet of metal 2 mm thick will be used as a desktop tabletop in the circular machine. This is quite enough for the workpiece to move freely on the work table.

Holes are made in the metal to accommodate countersunk screws. In addition to metal, you can also use chipboard as a table, and make it from plywood. It is recommended to make the working table of the circular saw so that a stop can be installed on it.

Rollers: operating principle

The key working mechanism of the device is a rotating cylinder through which hot sheets of metal are passed and bent. Rolling machines can be equipped with cylinders from 2 to 5 pieces , but three-roll and four-roll products are most often used.

The parts are bent through the action of the third rear shaft, and the fixing radius depends on the distance between the upper and rear shaft.

Sometimes metal rollers break and require replacement. When working with iron, the machine must be constantly heated, and the layers of iron after the rollers go into the furnace, they are heated there, and then pumped again. After that they go back to the machine.

After roller processing, the cross-section of the metal is reduced and it becomes longer under the influence of high metal temperature and degree of pressure.

To obtain a cylindrical product, the rear shaft must be adjusted parallel to the front one, and to make a cone, the rear shaft must be set at an angle relative to the front one.

There are roller models that can be used to process metal directly on the table, but they are not very functional. Working with them can be simplified using fasteners . The cost of rollers depends on their dimensions. And if you decide to make the machine yourself, you will save a lot.

The functions of modern rolling machines, home-made and factory-made, three-roll and four-roll, are as follows:

the ability to bend pipes up to 160 degrees;
working with metal pipes;
deformation of pipes regardless of their diameter.

A simple circular saw made from a grinder or circular saw with your own hands

The design of a simple machine made from a hand-held circular saw or grinder allows you to use ready-made tools with a disk mounting unit and a motor. There is no need for a belt drive here, which means the number of technological operations will be less. The big advantage of this model is that the design will use a ready-made lifting mechanism for a circular saw, this will allow you to adjust the depth of cut of the workpiece.

At the same time, this scheme also has a number of disadvantages. So, a circular saw wheel in a tool based on an angle grinder will have a high rotation speed, about 7000 rpm, on the one hand, this is a big advantage, since high speed allows you to do the work better. But on the other hand, when working with hard wood or if the saw jams, there is a high probability that the motor will simply burn out. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the grinder shaft cannot be moved closer to the working plate; the gearbox will interfere, so the depth of cut in such a tool will be small.

Another problem with this version of a circular saw is that the grinder does not have safety devices like a hand-held circular saw ; they will have to be made separately.

But there are also positive aspects - the gearbox housing of the angle grinder has ready-made holes for handles and, when used as mounting holes, for fastening to the machine body. In this case, there will be no need to remodel the angle grinder by making changes to the design of the tool; it is enough to make brackets and fix them on the body.

You can do the same with the power buttons - using electrical tape, simply fix them in the on position, and connect the wire to the starter connector. You can use an old switch with a large key as the main button; this will save time when assembling the machine and increase safety - in the event of an emergency stop of the tool, the large key is easier to find.

Manual version from an angle grinder

A hand-held circular saw is easiest to achieve if you already have a grinder on the farm. All you need to do is make two simple improvements: a sliding stop and an axial handle.

A sliding stop is two pieces of small metal corner located on both sides of the working element: a disk with teeth installed instead of an abrasive wheel. The gap is 3-4 mm on each side. The horizontal edges of the corners must be rounded at the bottom so that they do not cling to the workpiece. The corners must be connected with cross braces at the front and back. Bolts and nuts are suitable for this, and a pack of washers will provide the required clearance.

We put a clamp made of metal tape on the body of the angle grinder; The screw tie of the clamp is located at the bottom. A double-folded strip of sheet metal or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear bolt of the sliding stop is rigidly attached to it. This way the stop is secured at the back. You can make the clamp with the rear support post as one piece, but the thickness of the metal strip must be at least 1 - 1.5 mm. By shifting the washers that provide clearance, equal gaps are achieved between the working body and the sides of the stop.

In the gearbox housing of the angle grinder we make two to four threaded holes for small bolts (M3 - M5). The gearbox must first be disassembled and identified in a place where it can be drilled. These holes are needed to attach a homemade axial handle. When using the standard side handle of an angle grinder, making an even cut will be difficult even for a physically strong man with strong work skills.

The axial handle is made of a metal tube or rod in the form of a horn directed upward and forward, or a transverse bracket the width of a palm with some margin. Do NOT spill the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox and drill holes in them for the mounting bolts. If the fastening ends are spilled, the handle will bend from effort during operation.

If the handle is in the form of a horn, we splash its far end in a horizontal plane and drill a hole in it for an axle of 4-6 mm with a margin, i.e. 6-10 mm. If the handle is a bracket, under it, in the same holes in the gearbox, we attach a piece of rod or tube protruding forward, and we spill its end and drill a hole in it, as indicated above. Of course, between the rod and the bracket there should be a distance sufficient for ease of work - 100-150 mm.

Now we take a piece of steel bar 4-6 mm. This will be the adjustment rod. We bend one end of it in the form of a loop, slightly splash it, and drill a hole for the front bolt of the stop. By selecting washers at the front end of the stop, we achieve a uniform gap width along its entire length. With a 6 mm rod, you will most likely only need two thin washers, one on each side.

We cut a thread on the “tail” of the rod. The threaded tail will fit into the hole in the handle described in the previous paragraph. One nut is screwed onto it in advance, and a second one after assembly. By loosening and tightening the nuts alternately, you can adjust the depth of the cut. That's it, the hand-held circular saw is ready for work.

Making a circular saw with your own hands

circular on hand has probably occurred to everyone who has at least once tried to make an even cut on a small board or strip of laminate with a jigsaw or handsaw. It's another matter when such an operation is performed on a stable machine. Even though this circular saw was assembled with your own hands from metal and does not have a very presentable appearance, this woodworking machine allows you to do the work faster and with better quality. But how can you assemble a circular machine yourself at the lowest cost and use available parts, for example, a motor from a washing machine?

The device of guides for saws of different types

Scheme of the drawing of saw sharpening and routing - 1) Saw blade. 2) Sharpened tooth. 4) Sharpening device. 5) work table for sharpening saws. 6-7-8) File directions, relationship to the work table and saw teeth being sharpened. 9) – line bending the teeth when setting.

The crosscut stop is one of the simplest and most commonly used devices. It allows you to cut long workpieces at 90° and 45° angles quite quickly. The base of the stop is made of textolite, which has a thickness of 4-5 mm. You can also use 9-10 mm plywood. Support beams with a cross section of 2x2 cm are suitable for oak or beech. The beams are connected to the base with screws that have countersunk heads. It is important to maintain angles of 90° and 45° between the beams for support. If necessary, such stops can be made for other cutting angles.

If you need to cut a large number of identical bars, you need to make a U-shaped structure. It presses against the trimmed beams like a “saddle”. This device consists of 3 parts: a back and two side parts. The back is made from a piece of board, which has a thickness of 23-25 mm and a width equal to the cross-section of the block. The side parts are made of textolite or plywood. The width of the sidewalls must be made such that the edge of the tool platform is supported before the saw blade enters the wood of the block.

It will be possible to accurately cut thick timber in two passes from different sides, without the need to remove the stop.

It is possible to make an edge stop, but you need to know that it takes quite a long time to make. Thanks to the longer support edge, the guide will be able to provide a more even cut than the designs that come with the saw. The base of the stop and the support strip are cut from plywood, which has a thickness of 13-15 mm. In the base, grooves are selected for the guide keys, after which holes are made for the saw blade and a through groove for the screw for clamping. In order to make the edges of the support strip, dowels, and saw mounting rails, you will need to use hard wood. It is recommended to strengthen the adhesive connections of the dowels, the edges with the support strip and the tool mounting rails with the base with small screws with countersunk heads.

It’s not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw yourself; you need a minimum set of materials. It is not recommended to use the structures that come with the saw.

Shaft and bearing housing.

Making a countertop

At the first stage of making a frame with a wooden tabletop with your own hands, the existing sheet of plywood is placed in accordance with the existing sketch or drawing.

In order to reduce the number of cuts, markings are carried out from the edges of the sheet. DIY accessories for circular saws.

The tool used is a fine-toothed hacksaw or a jigsaw.

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Manufacturing process

So, a person has all the necessary tools, a shaft with a certain diameter, as well as a drawing. First you need to fix the part in the lathe. Regardless of its type, double-sided fastening is used. Any lathe has a spindle. The shaft is secured here using special clamps. On the other side is the tailstock. She presses the material from behind. Now you can proceed to rough processing.

For these purposes, a flow cutter is used. For roughing, rough removal is used, so there are no specific requirements for the tool. The most important thing is that it is sharpened. Otherwise, burrs may form on the workpiece, and this is unacceptable. The machine is simply started and processing is carried out according to the largest diameter.

It will be needed for finishing with a cutter.

Now you can move on to processing other surfaces. Since there are quite a lot of seats, each of them will be processed in accordance with the drawing. It is worth working at high speeds so that the surface is as high quality and smooth as possible.

Once roughing is completed, you can move on to finishing turning. An appropriate cutter is also used for these purposes. All allowances that remained previously will have to be removed. Here you should definitely focus on the drawing dimensions. They are processed. It is advisable to check the size after each finishing pass to ensure that the final product is truly correct.

Next comes the groove cutter. It is used for turning special grooves for keys. There will be several of them here. They will allow you to attach a wide variety of parts to the shaft. It is necessary to cut in accordance with the dimensions shown in the drawing. After the work is completed, you can once again check all available dimensions.

If necessary, you can remove the shaft and then try to fit the bearing and other parts that will be used onto it. If everything is fastened normally, then we can safely state the fact that the work was carried out correctly, and, therefore, the circular shaft is ready for use. Of course, you can use additional sandpaper to get a cleaner surface.

To process the workpiece with its help, the latter is fixed again in its position. Now take a sheet of sandpaper and run it along the shaft. In this case, the clamped workpiece should rotate. You should use non-coarse sandpaper to get a mirror shine, after which the shaft can be removed from the machine. It is completely ready for installation on a circular machine. Of course, you will have to do a number of manipulations with other blanks so that they all fit perfectly on it.

In fact, the work is not difficult, but it is still better to turn to professionals, especially since not every person has a lathe at his disposal. It is better to carry out the work on a machine with numerical control, as this makes it much easier.

Thus, the work is completed, which means we can sum up some of its results. Now everyone knows how. In fact, everything that was described above consists of processing a simple shaft.

In some cases, it can be obtained from a rod of the appropriate diameter. All remnants of the workpiece are subsequently removed. They can simply be sawed off using a hacksaw. You can also use another tool. For example, a grinder with an appropriate circle that is capable of cutting metal is ideal for these purposes. It all depends on what a person has available in his workshop.

The household often lacks a circular saw, especially if major renovations or construction are underway. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular saw yourself, using materials that are available in the household.

Mini circular saw: how to make it yourself

A circular saw is a useful assistant for men in the household or workshop. The equipment is suitable for working with small-sized wood materials.

You can make it yourself, or purchase a ready-made device.

How to turn a shaft with your own hands without a lathe

The second option does not raise many questions, but in the case of the first, it is necessary to understand in more detail the design, step-by-step instructions and purpose.

Assembling a rolling machine with your own hands

Homemade roller benders with manual drive are assembled in the following sequence:

The bed of the rolling machine is welded (according to the dimensions shown in the general drawing).
Side racks are mounted, for which a steel channel profile made of low-carbon steel grade 09G2S or similar is suitable.
The housing is attached to the transmission parts (if you have to make the gears yourself or order them, then to install the chain transmission you can select power sprockets and a tension chain, for example, from a mountain bike).
The shafts are inserted into the holes of the bearing housings, after which their parallelism is set, and the final fixation of the machine components is carried out.
Before final assembly of the roller unit with your own hands, it is worth doing a test bending of the part, clarifying the amount and nature of lubrication of the bearing supports, and also adjusting the tension of the drive chain.

Homemade 3-roll sheet bending machine

If the rollers are intended to be installed in an unheated room (for example, in a garage), then all parts should be painted with weather-resistant paint or taken care of with an anti-corrosion coating.

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Source: stankiexpert.ru

Do-it-yourself accessories for a hand-held circular saw – Metalworker’s Guide

How to make a circular saw with your own hands from a hand-held circular saw

If a person lives in a private home or has a garden plot, then having a stationary circular saw in the home craftsman’s arsenal is not only better, but sometimes even necessary.

The simplest homemade guide bar for a circular saw or DIY. Unfortunately, the price of an industrially made standard of such a saw does not correspond to the frequency of its home use, and for some Russians it is simply not affordable.

At the same time, making a “circular” with your own hands is quite simple, using the drive of a sewing machine or an ordinary electric drill. Selecting a saw blade for a circular saw blade. The disc is needed for Selecting a 190mm disc for.

But the quality of work performed and the range of operations performed almost entirely depend on the frame of the circular saw.

What is a mini circular saw?

The tool is indispensable for home construction. It can handle cutting any lumber using a saw blade.

The structure of the saw has a complex design, but despite this, it is not difficult to make it yourself. This does not require special skills of an electrician or mechanic.

Do-it-yourself miter box or miter cutter for a hand-held circular saw

Group VK This is an easy-to-manufacture device for sawing at different angles, c.

A slot for the disk is marked on the underside of the sawn piece. The cut can be made with a finger cutter, securing it with your own hands in the chuck of an electric drill. DIY circular table made from a hand-held circular saw. DIY table for a circular saw.

In order to maintain the straightness of the cut edges, a simple homemade copier made from two metal corners is attached to the tabletop with clamps. Further work depends on the mechanism for attaching the circular saw blade.

The easiest way is to install it manually on two bearing supports, and drive it through a belt drive from a separate electric motor or from an electric drill.

To add additional rigidity to the tabletop, it is advisable to attach stiffening ribs along its edges, which can be made from bars or aluminum corners. The stiffeners are fastened to the table using self-tapping screws.

To give greater strength to the entire structure, an additional layer of epoxy glue can be applied to the joint, which will fix the block to the tabletop along the entire plane of the joint.

The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the block should be 2.0...4.0 centimeters.

After this, in accordance with the selected drive design, the circular disk support assembly is attached.

For reliable fastening, it is better to fix the bearing housings to the frame using a screw, threaded connection.

In this case, the countersunk screw heads are located on the upper plane of the tabletop and should not protrude above its plane. The upper working surface of the desktop should be coated with wear-resistant varnish and polished.

For greater safety when working with a homemade device, it is advisable to install a swinging protective cover over the cutting edge of the disk.

Why do you need a mini circular saw?

A mini saw for wood allows you to work with this material both lengthwise and crosswise. You can use a circular saw at an angle of 45 degrees. The equipment is used for assembling furniture, working in private workshops, etc. With it, it is possible to replace several other tools, because when you manufacture it yourself, the necessary functions are added at the discretion of the master.

Thus, the saw is suitable for working with:

An example of making a mini circular saw is one of many options for assembling an electric tool, but it is the fastest, most economical and easiest. You can create a circular saw from an engine or an old grinder.

Do-it-yourself shaft for a circular saw without a lathe

And I also ask you all for one piece of advice: on a jointer, one half of the table is blank, and the other is adjustable, the blank half in relation to the knives should be set at what level?

There are many ways, many from the Internet I use myself, but everything is individual to the machine: 1. Level the tables and place a magnet on top; the knife will rise evenly along the plane; all that remains is to tighten the screws; I tried it; there is a drawback when tightening the screws; the key sticks to the screws and interferes with tightening.

A similar option to the first one, but at the bottom of the shaft, 2 holes are drilled at the edges and a spring is inserted into them. knife on top. glass on top, tighten the screws.

3 I have a notebook, here’s a quote from it that might be useful: beer:

Everything is very simple. We take any block (you can use a bead of 30.40 centimes). We make a vertical mark on the side of something and place it on the table. Now we mark this mark on the table and begin to rotate the shaft. The knife approaches the block, touches it, lifts it, drags it some distance, lowers it and moves away. We mark the new position of the mark on the table. And now we do the same with other knives, ensuring that the marks match. Then use the same method to set the other end of the knives. ALL. The method can be modified by introducing different rulers, etc. The good thing about this principle is that it turns fractions of a millimeter into centimeters (as if multiplying them), allowing you to achieve the highest accuracy without any micrometers. Suitable for all planes and very simple. One grandfather showed it to me about 30 years ago, I’ve been using it ever since, thanks to him! Yes, I forgot to add, first we set the maximum planing depth, and then reduce the depth if necessary.

scromniy I also use the same method, and for about 25 years now. Suitable for any machines from industrial jointers to hand planes. Only on the block two notes are initially made with a distance of 5mm. Place the block on the front table so that the first mark is on the edge of the table. We set the table to zero and adjust it so that the knives advance the block to the second mark, i.e. by 5mm. With this adjustment at zero, the knives will “lick” the material. The ruler adjustment works fine. You set it to 2 mm. 2 mm and removes. This method was taught to me by my grandfather, who worked as a carpenter all his life.

In my stationary machine, the knives rest on springs. A sheet of 8 mm glass the width of the knives with ground ends is placed on the back table and pressed by hand, after which the shaft is rotated by the pulley. (The risks of glass laying and maximum blade extension are marked with a marker). The knives rise flush with the table automatically and are then secured with chipbreakers. 2. In a manual jointer (Rebir), the knives are adjusted with screws, which is less convenient; you have to lay flat aluminum. the bar on the back sole and use screws to catch the zero rise of the bar with knives when turning the drum. There is a desire to also seal (caulk?) the springs into the groove, but I still can’t get around to it.

I display my knives with the help of a large magnet, and it’s better if there are two of them, put the magnet on the back plate, loosen the screws of the knife, the knife automatically sticks to the magnet, all you have to do is carefully clamp the knives, that’s all.

Using 2 wooden blocks with magnets glued to them. Place on the table, the outermost magnet hangs over the shaft, loosen the screws and the knife will become magnetized. Tighten the screws. And do the rest. Preparation - 2 blocks, magnets (preferably 3 pieces each) put on a flat surface surface according to the size of the blocks (150-200 mm). It is better to glue with liquid nails, they will choose the gap on the magnets if they are different. Place the block on top. Let dry and use. Enough for a long time!

Materials for production

To make a saw, you will need:

powerful 220 V electric motor with pulley and belt;
circular saw blade;
rod from a car shock absorber;
two bearings 6004;
two 5/8" snap rings;
metal pipes;
pulley ø90 mm;
Bulgarian;
welding machine;
hammer;
roulette;
wooden beam;
vice;
nuts, washers, screws;
spray paint.

Assembling a circular saw

We put the pulley on the bushing and tighten the fastening screws.

We connect the saw to the second side of the shaft in the following sequence: nut - pressure washer - saw blade - centering washer - pressure washer - nut, and tighten everything well.

We screw the legs of the shaft to the wooden beam with self-tapping screws.

We install the electric motor so that its pulley and the saw pulley are in the same plane and put on the belt. Our circular saw is ready. All that remains is to turn on the power and make sure that everything is done correctly.

Making a circular saw shaft

We put the bearings on the shock absorber rod. If the bearings are put on tightly, we tap them with a pipe nozzle.

We clamp the bearings together with the rod in a vice. We insert the end of the rod without thread into the drill chuck.

We mark the locations of the retaining rings (in the example, the shaft length is 16 cm). Turning on the drill, use a grinder to cut grooves for the retaining rings.

We cut off the excess part of the rod and carefully sand everything.

From a metal pipe, the inner diameter of which is slightly smaller than the outer diameter of the bearings, cut a piece of 16 cm.

We grind the inner diameter along the edges of the pipe for bearings.

We insert the rod and bearings into the pipe, securing them on both sides with retaining rings.

We cut out two legs for a shaft measuring 25x6 cm from sheet metal and weld them along the edges of the pipe body. We clean the welding areas.

We make an adapter from a metal pipe of a suitable diameter that compensates for the difference between the diameter of the shaft and the inner diameter of the pulley.

We weld it to the shaft and sand the edges.

We drill four mounting holes in the shaft legs.

We paint the shaft with spray paint, after wrapping the shock absorber rod with tape.

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Features of machines for metal

Without a rolling machine, it is impossible to shape sheet metal into a cylindrical shape, and pipe rollers help create a drainage system . Machines with forging cylinders are needed for cold bending of metal blanks; also, thanks to rollers, you can process:

plastic;
ductile metal;
rubber compounds.

You need to choose one or another machine depending on the thickness of the metal:

Twin-roll rollers include two parallel shafts, the upper one has a small cross-section and is made of high-strength steel, and the lower one has a large cross-section and is made of rubber-coated steel. Depending on the pressure force of the pipe, its outlet diameter is selected;
three-rollers can be symmetrical or asymmetrical ; they are often used in the production of ventilation, round gutters and radius parts. In addition, three-roll rollers are used when processing products made of copper, iron, steel, zinc, etc.;
four-roll designs are equipped with an additional roll at the bottom to simplify the rolling process.

The most common rollers are three-roll and four-roll. Thus, three-rollers have the following distinctive properties:

a sheet whose width is less than 6 mm will slip between the shafts;
the sheet rolling speed should be a maximum of 5 m per minute;
it is difficult to operate the machine due to the lack of exact coordinates of the metal clamping point;
affordable price.

But four-roll rollers have the following characteristics:

the rollers are securely coupled and the risk of sheet slipping is minimized;
rolling speed can exceed 6 m per minute;
the work process is fully automated;
the price is high.

Homemade circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands?

Circular saws have firmly established themselves in the arsenal of craftsmen. Mainly due to the cutting accuracy (it is much higher than that of jigsaws and chainsaws) and versatility (it can make both longitudinal and transverse cuts in wood, as well as cut slate, plexiglass and plastic). If you have an electric motor on your farm, it’s time to think about this tool. In our article we will tell you how to make a circular saw with your own hands from available materials.

DIY circular saw

Homemade circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands?

Circulation table

The main condition for making a table is the selected material. It is recommended to use a solid steel sheet, duralumin or silumin alloy. Materials such as moisture-resistant plywood, plexiglass and textolite require processing and installation on top of a galvanized sheet. The use of any material in manufacturing must meet the main conditions:

In cases where the conditions are not met, a DIY circular saw may stop due to a jammed disk or a broken drive. The consequences can be different, from a damaged part to injury to a person.

There are several options for making a circular table. Stationary tables can be sawed or made from two parts. The circular saw blade should protrude no more than a third of its diameter.

Broadcast

There are several types of gears that can be used in the design of a DIY circular saw:

V-belt transmission;
mechanism consisting of gears.

The preferred option is to use a belt drive. Using a mechanism with gears can lead to jamming if a foreign body enters and injury to the worker. When choosing the pulley diameter, the maximum number of revolutions of the saw blade is taken into account.

Roller specifications

When designing homemade manual three-roll rollers, it is necessary to take into account the required operational and technical qualities. The characteristics of a suitable factory model can be taken as a basis for analysis. But at the same time, its parameters must be adapted to the actual characteristics of the homemade design.

First of all, the dimensions of the machine are taken into account. They depend on the length of the shafts and affect the maximum width of the processed sheets. It must be remembered that a manual mechanism will be used as a drive, which must be done with your own hands. Therefore, usually the working width of the shaft does not exceed 1.2 m. The weight of the homemade structure will only affect the possibility of its transportation.

In addition to these indicators, it is necessary to take into account the following parameters that manual three-roll rollers must have:

diameter of working shafts. This indicator affects the maximum possible radius of curvature of the processed material;
degree of distance between the upper shaft and the lower guides;
distance between the lower shafts;
material supply speed.

When choosing a specific model of three-roll sheet bending rollers, you should accurately calculate the rigidity of the structure. Despite the fact that the pressure is mainly exerted on the shafts, the frame also experiences certain mechanical loads. Therefore, the choice of manufacturing materials and design of this machine model must be approached with special care.

The presence of three shafts in the design is optimal. When installing additional components, the degree of load on the manual drive mechanism increases, which is extremely undesirable for home-made models.

Stationary machine with your own hands

To perform everyday or one-time tasks, a hand-made circular saw is quite suitable. Small-volume sawing work does not imply heavy loads on the disk drive. The compact tool has small dimensions, which makes it possible to put it away after finishing work in a certain place. An experienced carpenter will need to make a large stationary type circular saw.

Making a stationary circular saw with your own hands will require precision and literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in manufacturing. It is worthwhile to treat every component of the unit competently and carefully, because the circular machine is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.

Adjustable side support

Any type of work will require a stop. The side support is made of a block of dense wood. In other cases, it is possible to make it from a metal corner. The arrangement should be slightly longer than the table structure. The stop is installed using bolts. The template is installed between the table and the cutter for precise installation and better settings.

The most important part of the design is the shaft mounted on the circular saw. A self-made shaft for a circular saw can damage the structure and cause injury. The reason for this is runout, which cannot be avoided when making a shaft using artisanal methods. The manufacture of the shaft should be entrusted to a specialist with good turning equipment. You should remember that there is a cutter that needs a seat. The holes must be symmetrically machined and machined.

Finished shafts are sold in specialized markets. Preference should be given to parts with a self-aligning bearing. Otherwise, the conventional mechanism may soon render the circular machine unusable.

Making a circular saw

Before proceeding directly to the manufacture of a circular machine, it is necessary to think through its structure and design, and ideally, select a drawing diagram according to which all work will be carried out in the future. When planning the manufacture of the frame, it is necessary to remember that such a design must be stable and reliable. For industrial powerful saws, the base is made of reinforced welded metal structure. For household models, you can use wooden blocks with plywood for the frame or weld a base from a metal corner.

You can make a powerful and easy-to-use circular saw from a washing machine motor. This won't be too difficult. Such motors are compact in size, operate on a single-phase network with a voltage of 220 volts, are reliable and are capable of operating at high speeds.

One of the most important components of a power saw is the shaft on which the working saw is mounted. You can use a ready-made shaft from similar equipment or make it using a milling cutter from round timber. Turn the shaft on a lathe, checking for perfectly accurate centering. Even minimal shaft runout is not allowed, since in the future it will be impossible and unsafe to work on such an incorrectly centered circular machine. Seats for pulleys and a circular saw should be made on the shaft.

The saw blade should rise above the surface of the worktop by a maximum of one third of its diameter. Otherwise, with a higher saw height, it will be difficult to process wood, and working on such a machine will simply become dangerous. If it is necessary to work with timber, the diameter of the saw blade will be approximately 350 millimeters. To process boards, you should choose small disks with a diameter of 250-300 millimeters

The quality of the saw blades used must be given due attention, since in the future the mini-circular saw will bear a significant load, low-quality blades will quickly become dull and require replacement

Design features of a circular machine

Circulars of any fixed type consist of main parts.

Table for connecting mechanisms. An assembly combined with higher power engines is preferable to a table made entirely of metal. The surface of the table must be made level with your own hands, for a higher quality product at the end.
The engine in most cases is used from what is in stock. Electric motors designed for long-term operation from the network will be preferable to commutator drives.
The shaft is the most critical component of the circular. Finished products are used most often; in other cases, the assembly is made on a lathe. It is important to calculate the mounting holes and eliminate runout.

When making a machine with your own hands, you should pay special attention to safety. The main surface of the saw blade should be covered with a protective cover. The moving parts of the drive and motors must be covered. The emergency stop button is built into the electric drive circuit and has a convenient location.

Motor

In most cases, homemade machines are equipped with an engine from an old washing machine. The main features are increased service life and efficiency. The speed of such engines is not high, which makes working on a circular saw assembled with your own hands safer, longer, and has a positive effect on the result. The use of a special three-phase motor implies the presence of a 380 Volt network. If one is not available, you will have to use a starting and running capacitor, which leads to additional costs.

Main technical parameters

How to make a sheet bending machine with your own hands? To do this, it is necessary not only to develop drawings of such a device, but also to determine its technical characteristics. It is best to take the design of a serial model as a basis and independently adapt it to your own needs.

Assembly drawing of a factory-made three-roller machine (click to enlarge)

Considering the fact that you are going to install your rollers in a certain room, you should immediately decide on their dimensions. This parameter, which directly depends on the length of the installed shafts, will determine what width of sheet blanks you can process on a device made by yourself. When deciding on the size of hand rollers, you should also take into account the fact that processing sheet blanks with a width of more than 1.2 meters using them will be quite difficult physically. The weight of a homemade machine will affect the ability to move it around the room and transport it.

Drive shaft. Drawing (click to enlarge)

Pressing shaft. Drawing (click to enlarge)

Drawing of three-roll plate bending rollers with electric drive (click to enlarge)

In addition to the dimensions and weight of future rollers, it is necessary to determine the following characteristics of such equipment:

the diameter of the rolls - the main working parts of the device (this parameter, which is quite important, will determine the maximum radius with which you can bend the metal sheets being processed);
the maximum distance at which the upper thrust roll can be located from the lower ones;
the maximum distance to which the lower rollers can move apart;
the speed at which the processed sheet material can move between the rolls.

Studying the technical parameters of factory models will help you decide on the size and design of the machine.

An important parameter that you should pay special attention to when developing a drawing of future rollers is the rigidity of their design. When processing metal sheets, significant mechanical loads are experienced not only by the rolls, but also by all other components - bed, drive mechanism, etc. That is why the choice of the roller operation scheme, as well as the selection of materials for its implementation, should be done with particular care.

Most often they are used for the manufacture of 3-roll rollers, since an increase in the number of working parts of such low-power manual devices leads to an increase in the level of load exerted on its drive mechanism.

Purpose of a circular saw

Before you begin assembling the machine, you need to clearly define its purpose. For preparing firewood and simply cutting large pieces of wood, a firmly fixed table with a slot for a saw is sufficient. This type is common in villages and rural areas; the machines are not safe and have increased functionality.

For more varied Spectra carpentry jobs, you'll need a better option. The circular machine must be equipped with a coordinate table with special guides, this allows you to change the degree. The manufacture of small-sized products requires increased safety. Speed control is installed and discs can be changed.

Saw blade

The design of a DIY circular saw must contain a saw blade. The working surface of the disk is set to one third of the total diameter. For example, with a diameter of 210 mm, the disk should protrude 70 mm from the table. Parts with greater thickness will require a powerful motor, from 1 kW. A miniature circular saw will not cope with such tasks.

The splitting knife installed on some models serves to prevent short circuits and jamming during operation. It is located at the back a few millimeters from the teeth of the saw blade. The device may also be needed when making a circular saw with your own hands.

Sources:

https://mastichi.ru/instrumenty/kak-sdelat-val-dlya-cirkulyarki-svoimi-rukami https://krrot.net/diskovaya-pila/ https://stankiexpert.ru/stanki/stanki-dlya-rezki /circulyarka-svoimi-rukami.html

Do-it-yourself manual three-roll rollers: drawings, photos, videos

Rollers are versatile equipment that allows you to effectively cope with sheet bending operations. Making rollers with your own hands is not so difficult, but to do this you need to first become familiar with the serial models, their design and principle of operation.

Three-roll hand rolls are the most suitable design for do-it-yourself production.

Roller types

There are several types of machines:

Manual rollers are the most convenient and practical device for deforming materials. There are no difficulties in working with the device; in addition, such machines do not need to be connected to a network. Clamps and feed rollers operating with a chain drive are attached to the main frame.

Profile rollers, manually driven, are most often used for single production, rather than for continuous production. Such devices offer a number of advantages:

durability, reliability of the design and ease of operation;
small size of the rolling machine, due to this it takes up little space;
simple adjustment of the lower and rear rotating shafts;
the upper shaft is removed;
low price of the machine.

Manual jewelry rollers are widely used by jewelers to roll and roll flat metal blanks and wires to give them the desired shape. The working cylinders of jewelry rollers are made of wear-resistant carbon alloy steel. These rollers are powder coated to protect them from corrosion.

When working with the rollers of a hand-held device, additional effort must be applied, since hand-held machines do not operate on electricity and the main guiding mechanism in them is a special pipe. Small metal products are suitable for processing on such machines.

Hydraulic rollers - hydraulically driven machines are highly powerful. The rolling machine is rated by professionals as the highest quality and most productive unit. However, it is quite weighty, and having installed it once, it is unlikely that you will be able to move the machine from place to place on your own without outside help.

Electric rolling machines have the highest productivity due to the operation of an electric motor, which allows you to quickly deform the pipe between the rollers. The operating principle of this model resembles a manual one, but there is a motor. Such equipment is often used in industrial production and has many positive reviews from consumers. The only negative is the overpriced electromechanical equipment.

Rolling machines in a home workshop or garage should be:

mobile. Such a machine should be light in weight for ease of movement;
taking up little space;
low-power and energy-saving. A 20 kW machine does its job very quickly, but consumes a huge amount of energy. The wiring in the house simply cannot withstand its work. As an option at home, you can use rollers with a power of up to 1500 Watts, as well as manual ones.

If, for one reason or another, none of the above options for rolling machines suits you, then you can also make the rollers yourself, because few serious repairs can be done without this machine.

Homemade rollers for sheet metal

Rotational bending of sheet and wide-band metal is in demand in the production activities of both small companies and repair shops. Even home craftsmen can make rollers with their own hands, while saving on the purchase of similar industrial equipment.

Advantages of rotary roll bending

In the process of deforming metal on rotary machines (which are rollers), the main deforming force is not applied simultaneously to the entire surface of the workpiece, but gradually, as more and more volumes of metal are involved in the deformation zone.

As a result, the force is significantly reduced, and some reduction in bending productivity is in most cases not critical. In addition, the very principle of operation of sheet-bending rollers is so simple that self-manufacturing of a rolling machine does not require significant labor costs and raw materials.

The sequence of sheet rolling operations is as follows:

The initial workpiece (sheet or wide strip) is inserted into the initial gap between the work rolls.
Lower the movable roller until the workpiece is firmly pressed against the lower rollers.
By turning the movable roller, the workpiece is bent. The number of revolutions of the tool can be different - it all depends on the evenness of the workpiece surface.
When the desired bending quality is achieved, the part is removed from the rolls.

In this way, you can produce products such as cylinders and conical parts, straighten strips, etc. The force of rotary rolling is small, since friction during stamping is minimal, and is only necessary to fix the workpiece in the rolls. The torque is more significant, but its values are relatively small.

They are determined only by the magnitude of the force application arm. The process effort is more noticeably influenced by the physical and mechanical characteristics of the material and its thickness (for thick-sheet workpieces the sectional moment of resistance increases sharply).

Equipment used

The equipment used for rolling is distinguished not only by its versatility, but also by its simplicity of design, so it is not difficult to make it yourself. Of course, homemade rolling machines are optimal for home use, and to equip a production workshop, where the load on such equipment is quite large, it is best to purchase serial models of rollers, which are presented in a wide variety on the modern market.

Both serial and home-made models of machines with which rolling is carried out work on the principle of rolling sheet material around the main roll located on top. Side rollers also take part in this process, which can be moved, thereby adjusting the diameter of the formed shell.

The rollers of this machine are rotated manually, and the approach of the upper roller is done using two handles

Important characteristics of rollers are the radius of their working elements - the rollers, as well as the greatest thickness and width of the workpiece. The radius of the rolls, in particular, influences such a parameter as the minimum bending radius of the workpiece. The larger the diameter of the rolls, the correspondingly greater the value of the minimum bending radius of the sheet metal workpiece. The value of the minimum bending radius is also influenced by the thickness of the sheet itself. As a rule, for rollers, the minimum bending radius of a sheet stock should be 5-10 times its thickness.

Taking into account the high loads that rolls experience during operation, only high-strength steel is used for their manufacture, which can significantly improve their performance characteristics. Based on the number of working elements, two-, three- and four-roll machines are distinguished, with the last two types being the most popular.

Main differences between 3 and 4 roll machines

3-roll sheet bending rollers, the working elements of which can be arranged symmetrically and asymmetrically, although they have a reasonable price, have the following disadvantages:

low rolling speed (no more than 5 m/min);
the difficulty of processing workpieces less than 6 mm thick, which can simply slip between the rolls;
lack of exact coordinates at the clamping point of the workpiece.

The rollers on which an additional fourth shaft is installed are free from all such shortcomings. Due to reliable clamping, the metal sheet blank does not slip between the rollers during processing. This ensures a high rolling speed of 6 m/min or more.

The machine with 4 rolls is capable of producing, in addition to cylindrical, oval and polycentric workpieces

Rollers of this type are usually equipped with automated control systems, which has a positive effect not only on their productivity, but also on the accuracy of the processing performed. The big and, perhaps, the only disadvantage of such a device is its high cost.

General information about the design

This type of machine is designed for controlled deformation of materials by rolling. For this, a system of shafts is used, passing through which the steel billet changes its configuration. The same function should be performed by manual models of machines that you can make yourself.

The structure consists of two support posts, on which a system of several shafts is installed. In this case, the lower ones often change their position only in the horizontal plane. For rolling steel sheets, they are connected to a torque transmission mechanism. The upper shaft is thrust and can be adjusted in height. Additionally, it is equipped with a device for quick tilting, which is necessary for removing the processed part.

Depending on the type of drive, three-roll bending rollers can be of the following types:

manual design. It consists of a system of gears or chain drives. A similar scheme is used for machines made by hand or in factory models with small dimensions, which are intended for piece production;
hydraulic drive. It is necessary for processing large thick-walled workpieces. Due to the maximum value of the applied force, deformation occurs relatively quickly. But at the same time, the requirements for the quality of the shafts increase;
installation of an electric motor. This is the best option for equipment with average performance. The electric power plant does not greatly affect the increase in the dimensions of the structure.

The quality of processing largely depends on the performance of the shafts. For their manufacture, special grades of tool steel are used. When large products are deformed, they are often heated to improve their ductility. Constant thermal impact on the shafts reduces their performance properties.

The installed CNC unit helps improve processing accuracy. It is designed to coordinate machine parameters - the location of the shafts, the degree of pressure on the workpiece.

Composition of components and features of their manufacture

A welded frame-type frame, which, in turn, consists of two support posts connected crosswise by profile pipes or square steel rods to increase rigidity. To increase the stability of the structure, thrust bearings can be welded to the lower ends of the support posts.
Unit for adjusting the distance between the movable and stationary rollers.
Handles for rotation of the upper roll (to increase the speed of rotation of the rolls, an overdrive can be provided, for which the handle shaft should be equipped with a gear wheel, and a corresponding gear should be installed on one of the rolls).
Lever devices for axial movement of the upper roll (when installing the original workpiece in the gap between the rolls).
The actual rollers, two of which are the lower ones, are installed in the bearings of the support posts, and the upper one, the pressure one, is installed in the axis of the rotary lever.
Press roller position lock, which takes into account the thickness of the metal being processed.
A support pipe on which the initial workpiece is laid (instead of the pipe, you can mount a small receiving table made of cold-rolled steel 6 mm thick).

Many details for the design can be borrowed from decommissioned roller conveyors intended for feeding sheets, for example, to sheet shears.

The procedure for manufacturing and assembling hand rollers with three rolls in a home workshop is as follows.

Work rolls

The material of the racks can be a profile square pipe made of steel type St.3, which can be easily welded. First, stiffeners are welded, and then tubular or solid profiles are welded to them. Welding must be carried out in the jigs to prevent warping of the structure and to ensure strict parallelism of the resulting frame. Small errors for already made racks can be easily corrected by welding the support bearings, which have different heights.

Next, work rolls are made. To do this, thick-walled pipes are used, and they must be either cold-rolled or made of stainless steel: in this way the desired roughness of the working surface can be ensured. It is not recommended to use hot-rolled steel due to the high labor intensity of cleaning followed by grinding the surface of future rolls.

Select the required standard size of the bearing assembly to suit your needs. For sliding bearings, it is better to use standard units manufactured in accordance with GOST 27672. Due to low peripheral speeds and deformation forces, there is no need to use rolling bearings.

The next stage of roller manufacturing is the installation of the rollers. It must be done using a laser level to avoid tool distortion, and taking into account the gap between the lower rolls. The holes for fastening the bearing housings to the struts should be made oval for subsequent adjustment.

The last step before testing the machine is the installation of the support table or pipe. For convenience, it is worthwhile to provide movable workpiece width limiters.

Homemade rollers can also be installed outdoors; then you will have to additionally make a protective casing. Often it is made folding, using rollers as a back support for a deformable metal sheet.