How to make a compressor with your own hands from a refrigerator

What is better - homemade or purchased?

In total, there are several main differences between them:

The design of the factory compressor contains an electric motor that transmits torque to the working chamber through a belt drive. As for the homemade compressor, it consists of a housing and the engine itself, without belts.
The factory version already has automatic pressure relief systems, inlet and outlet filters, pressure meters, etc. installed. In a compressor from a refrigerator, you will have to install the control equipment yourself, taking into account all the features.
Despite the fact that most factory compressors are equipped with automatic systems, some budget models do not have this feature. In other words, these units will have to be turned off independently, noting the time on the clock. Homemade compressors are mainly equipped with a protective relay that turns off the engine if there is a risk of overheating.
Some factory models may not have any lubrication at all. Of course, they are small, but they lack various exhausts. This circumstance is very important, especially if the spray gun behaves rather capriciously, not tolerating various impurities. As for homemade compressors, there is plenty of oil.
The main feature of a homemade compressor is that it works very quietly, especially if you put all the tubes on it correctly, maintaining a tight seal. As for factory compressors, they are noisier, so their use is only possible outside the home.
The cost of manufacturing a homemade compressor is very low, because the main components are taken from old equipment, and the control equipment will cost a maximum of 1000 rubles.
It is impossible to make any technical changes to the factory compressor. In other words, if the unit is not powerful enough, then it can only be used as a tire inflator, nothing more. Homemade options are good because you can add some parts to them, for example, a large receiver, thanks to which you can significantly increase the power of the device.

As practice shows, a homemade compressor for painting a car breaks down much less often than its foreign and domestic factory counterparts. On the Internet you can find many instructions on how to build compressors with your own hands. So let's discuss several options that can help in this matter.

Do-it-yourself mechanical supercharging of the engine: installing a compressor

As is known, the power of any naturally aspirated engine strongly depends on the displacement, and is also quite limited by the physical displacement of the internal combustion engine. To put it simply, the outside air is due to the vacuum that occurs as a result of the movement of the pistons in the cylinders.

At the same time, the amount of fuel that can then be effectively burned directly depends on the amount of incoming air. In other words, to make a naturally aspirated engine more powerful, it is necessary to increase the cylinder displacement, increase the number of cylinders, or combine both.

Another effective way is to supply air to the engine under pressure. In this case, the volume of the cylinder and the number of “pots” do not need to be changed, while the air is forced in, which automatically allows more fuel to be supplied and then to burn such a charge of the fuel-air mixture with maximum efficiency.

Among the air blowers, turbocharging and a mechanical compressor should be highlighted.

Each of the solutions has both its pros and cons, while installing a mechanical air blower with your own hands in practice may well turn out to be somewhat easier than correctly performing the work of installing a turbocharger. Next we will talk about whether it is possible to install a compressor on the engine with your own hands and what needs to be taken into account as part of such an installation.

Mechanical engine charging: what you need to know

Let's start with the fact that installation of any type of supercharger (mechanical or turbocharging) is possible on both injection and carburetor engines. In both cases, a number of modifications to the power unit are expected, however, installing a turbine on the engine is somewhat more difficult and expensive compared to a compressor.

It becomes clear that a mechanical supercharger is a more affordable way to increase engine power; such a solution is easier to install on the engine, and the work can even be done independently. At the same time, the general principle of operation of the supercharger is quite simple.

The device can actually be compared to an attachment (generator, power steering pump or air conditioning compressor), that is, the unit is driven by the engine. As a result of the operation of a mechanical compressor, the air is compressed and enters the cylinders under pressure.

This allows the cylinders to be better purged (ventilated) from exhaust gas residues, cylinder filling is significantly improved, the amount of air in the combustion chamber increases, which makes it possible to burn more fuel and increase engine power.

The operation of a compressor gives the same result as a turbocharger. The only difference is that a turbocharger uses exhaust gas energy to rotate the turbine wheel, while a mechanical compressor is connected to the engine crankshaft via a belt drive. Naturally, this type of drive takes some power away from the internal combustion engine, but the advantage is the simplicity of the design. Also, the compressor is directly dependent on engine speed. The more the engine is revved, the more air is supplied to the combustion chambers and, accordingly, the power increases.

At the same time, there is no pronounced effect of turbojam (turbolag), which is found on turbocharged engines.

Turbo lag manifests itself in the form of a failure at low speeds, when the exhaust energy is not yet enough to spin the turbine and create the necessary pressure to effectively supply air to the cylinders.

If we talk about installing a mechanical compressor on an atmospheric carburetor or injection engine, you need to understand that the engine still needs to be prepared (changes in the compression ratio are taken into account, hardware modifications are made, the ECU firmware on injection engines is changed, etc.).

In other words, all work is carried out comprehensively, which further allows the forced power unit to operate successfully and stably without significantly reducing its service life. Now let's look at some of the features of this installation.

Installing a mechanical compressor on an engine: subtleties and nuances

Let's start with the fact that the main task is to select a mechanical supercharger that will meet a number of requirements (weight, dimensions, performance, operating modes, lubrication features, drive design, etc.).

For these purposes, you can purchase a compressor from any car or order a ready-made tuning kit to boost the engine. There have also been cases where the supercharger was made independently, but such home-made solutions are quite rare, especially in the CIS.

In practice, they often install tuning kits (turbo kits); less often, they use used parts that are removed from other compressor cars. The advantage of a ready-made kit is that such a kit is designed for installation on a specific car model. This means that fasteners, belts, drive, air ducts are supplied with the compressor, instructions are included, etc.

The only drawback can be considered the relatively high price of proven offers on the market, while more affordable sets may be of dubious quality and quickly fail.

At the same time, it should be taken into account that it is also necessary to modify the standard cooling and fuel supply system, taking into account the changed performance of the power unit. Simply put, boosting the engine using a compressor means that more fuel needs to be supplied per unit time. To do this, you may need to change the fuel pump, install more efficient injectors, etc.

We should also not forget that more power is achieved by burning more fuel. It is natural that the heat generation in this case also increases greatly, and the motor will require more intensive cooling.

What's the result?

Let us immediately note that installing an air blower is quite possible with your own hands, especially if we are talking about using a ready-made kit for a specific engine.

Also, taking into account the above, it becomes clear that although increasing engine power with the help of a mechanical compressor is quite possible, it is a mistake to believe that it will only be enough to install a compressor, after which the engine will immediately become much more powerful.

We also recommend reading the article on how to boost a car engine. From this article you will learn about an accessible way to obtain more power by increasing the engine displacement and modifying individual elements and components of the power unit.

In fact, to obtain a pronounced effect, the power unit needs to be modified, and in many cases quite seriously (the block is bored to increase the working volume, then the piston stroke is also increased by replacing the crankshaft, the pistons themselves and connecting rods, valves, camshafts, etc. are changed. d.).

In simple words, the naturally aspirated engine is first boosted as much as possible, after which a mechanical compressor is additionally “hung” on it. Next, you need to properly configure such an internal combustion engine. For a car with a carburetor, the metering system should be adjusted; the intake and exhaust may also require modifications. On injection machines, the operations are similar, with tuning firmware (chip tuning) first being written into the ECU, after which additional running-in and correction of the firmware occurs online (right on the go). The only thing is that if the boost pressure is not higher than 0.5 bar, the standard power supply system on many cars does not need to be upgraded. Also, the engine in this case may not need deep tuning at all.

The service life of an “unprepared” engine, of course, will be reduced after installing a mechanical compressor, but if the boost pressure is not high, such an engine can work normally for quite a long time.

Schemes for making a homemade compressor

Here are several options for device assembly schemes - choose which one is best suited for your purposes:

Compressor assembly parts

pressure switch;
pressure gauge;
gearbox with oil and water separator;
oil/water separator filter;
adapters;
crosspiece;
fitting and nut;
coupling;
nipple;
a tube;
car clamps;
receiver;
nuts, studs, washers;
furniture wheels;
automobile oil;
toggle switch;
plug and cord;
fuel filter;
plywood panels (chipboard);
refrigerator compressor;
oil and petrol resistant hose, screws, Epoxylin, sealant, paint, fum tape, rust remover and other small things.

I checked several different control valves in my versions. After several attempts, I ordered a RUCK14IAMSV check valve, it does not buzz and can be perfect for building a compressor from refrigeration units. You also need to buy a safety valve (MINI SVM14-12). Take a tank from a 16 kg powder fire extinguisher. The pressure in the tank is 9.5 bar, the shelf life is 2 months.

Important: pay attention to what kind of oil you pour in - synthetic oil does not combine very well with regular oil, so you don’t need to pour in just anything.

An oil separator must be installed between the compressor and the tank.
Oil should be added through the third solder tube.
It is best to solder the connector and screw it in with a screw or metal plug.
Install a dehydrator, it will also capture the oil.

Due to the sudden failure of the refrigerator, I became the owner of an efficient 110 W unit. Of course it can be converted into a compressor. There is a car airbrush, which was previously used with a 12-watt compressor, as well as with a high-power compressor. These devices are noisy and short-lived. So I had to make a homemade one.

Converting a compressor from a refrigerator to an air compressor

Homemade devices will be much more effective and cheaper than other factory-made analogues. Using an outdated refrigerator, you can create a compressor, knowing some technical features, and carrying out dismantling work. The output will be a silent, portable air device. The filter installed at the motor inlet is made from a plastic container. All that remains is to purchase shut-off control valves in the store, for example, gates and valves.

Any refrigeration unit has a built-in compressor. To convert it to an aerial model, it is enough to remove the part and equip it with fittings. However, good cooling will be required. Otherwise, the device will not last for a long time when in contact with air. So, to pump the receiver up to 7 atm. The refrigeration unit must operate for at least 15 minutes. And such a volume of air may not be enough, for example, to inflate a car tire at one time.

Compressor assembly instructions

It is important to dismantle the compressor correctly to avoid damaging it. First, using wire cutters, cut through the tubes coming out of the engine leading to the radiator grille. Next, the wires from the relay are cut, but their length should remain approximately 20 cm. Before unscrewing the compressor, you need to make a mark on the relay cover.

Once the compressor blower circuit from the refrigerator is broken, the spindle will be exposed to the atmosphere, which will lead to a loss of its properties. If the factory oil in the supercharger is not replaced, its pistons will quickly wear out, causing the engine to fail. Therefore, it is recommended to first replace it with a semi-synthetic motor one. like from a car.

In addition to the outlet and inlet tubes, the compressor from a conventional refrigerator is equipped with a third tube with a sealed end. In order to use it in the future to paint a car, it is necessary to remove the clogged part. To do this, using a hacksaw for metal, you should make a neat cut around the tube, but without sawing all the way through, and then break off the cut piece. It is important that metal shavings do not get inside.

The remaining pipe must be flared and the old oil drained, then semi-synthetic oil must be poured into it in the same quantity. After which the pipe is sealed with a screw wrapped in fum tape.

The fire extinguisher housing is perfect for the receiver. It is important that it is cast, seamless and has a volume of 10 liters or more. Before using it, you need to inspect the inside of the fire extinguisher for corrosion. A flashlight is used for inspection. If corrosion is still present, it must be removed using a special liquid.

How to make a compressor from a refrigerator motor

First, let's prepare the tools:

2 hoses (100 mm, 600 mm);
receiver (a housing from an old fire extinguisher will do);
wire;
clamps;
gasoline filter from a car;
pressure gauge;
drill with drills;
pliers;
wooden board (basis for the structure).

Let's start the remodeling with preparatory dismantling work:

remove the compressor from the refrigerator located at the bottom using a curly screwdriver, pliers, and a set of keys;
Using pliers (cutters), we bite off 2 tubes from the cooling system and compressor;
remove the start relay (black box with wires), unscrew the fasteners;
we cut the wires;
we check the parts for working condition, because it is not a fact that they are suitable for dismantling if the refrigerator is old and has been idle for a long time;
flatten the tubes to allow air to pass through them;
we install in place the previously removed relay;
screw the wiring with the plug to the wires located on the body;
wrap the joints with electrical tape;
plug it into the outlet, if air comes out of the tubes, then the unit is working, otherwise the compressor from the refrigerator is broken or the wires are connected incorrectly;
take a plastic container (2.5-3 l), drill several holes at the top;
insert the tubes from the compressor so that the inlet is located 200 mm from the edge of the receiver, the outlet - inside the container (10 mm from the top);
fill with resin;
we drill a hole for the nut in the metal case from the fire extinguisher (if not, then weld a part from a sheet metal pipe to connect the receiver);
insert the pressure gauge, screw it on, weld it;
We attach the receiver to the base with a wire.

A homemade compressor should consist of three copper tubes: one is short, sealed at the end. When servicing, it will be enough to cut off the soldered part, fill in filtered oil, and solder again.

How to use a compressor from an old refrigerator

How to make a compressor from a household refrigerator with your own hands

How to connect a compressor from a refrigerator with a relay and directly

Stages of assembly work

Making a compressor from a refrigerator means following a simple sequence of steps:

Take pliers, a 12mm spanner, 2 screwdrivers - one for plus and one for minus. At the bottom of the rear panel, use pliers to cut through the tubes connecting the compressor to the cooling system. Unscrew the start relay, having previously marked the top and bottom sides on it. Disconnect the relay from the plug. We take all the fasteners with us.
Checking functionality: reconnect the relay, provide air access to the compressor through the tubes, connect to the network. If everything is done correctly, the device works. Air will flow into one tube and out of the other. Label these tubes.
Attach the compressor with self-tapping screws to a wooden board.
We take an old fire extinguisher, 1 hose 600 mm long, 2 others - 100 mm, fuel filter, clamps, pressure gauge, sealant. We already have a drill, a screwdriver, and pliers.
If there is no fire extinguisher, then we will make a plastic container. To do this, you need to take a container with a volume of more than 3 liters. Make 2 holes. Insert the inlet tube into 1 hole at a distance of 2 cm from the bottom of the container. We lower the outlet pipeline 10 cm deep. It is impossible to install a pressure gauge on a plastic tank.
If there is an iron tank, then the tubes can be fixed by welding. We install a pressure gauge on the iron receiver. We fasten the receiver and compressor together.
Place a filter on a 10 cm long hose and attach the free end of the tube to the inlet of the constructed apparatus. We use another hose to connect the receiver inlet to the compressor outlet. We fix the joining places with clamps. A diesel filter is attached to the last hose, and its free end is inserted into the outlet of the receiver. If necessary, equipment can be attached to the remaining end of the tube to make airbrushing and painting available.

Second version of step-by-step instructions:

We drill a special hole for the adapter that needs to be secured. You can choose different methods, for example, the most affordable is cold welding (using Epoxylin).
Carefully clean the bottom of the receiver from contaminants - plaque and rust. This is necessary so that Epoxylin adheres well to the surface for strong bonding. And, of course, so that the paint does not become dirty and does not form into lumps with debris. This can be achieved by sanding the bottom of the fire extinguisher to a metallic shine using rotating and circular movements using sandpaper.
We secure the adapter by clamping it from the front side with a nut, and give the Epoxylin time to harden according to the instructions.
Let's move on to the base for the compressor, for which you need to acquire three wooden boards or a piece of plywood measuring 30 by 30 cm. For the convenience of further moving our device, you can screw mobile furniture wheels to the base. We do not specifically describe the dimensions of the holes and other details, since this will all be purely individual, as it depends on the selected material, type of compressor, and so on.
We drill holes for the compressor and studs and mount them. The studs are secured with nuts and washers. We put a car filter with a special paper core on the inhalation of the compressor. This will help prevent dust and other small contaminants from getting inside the compressor.
Next we'll deal with the electrical work. To make our homemade compressor for painting a car convenient to use, we equip it with a pressure switch (for example, PM5 or RDM5), as well as a shutdown switch. The first device, a pressure switch, is necessary for us to turn off the compressor during the process of pumping air into the receiver, when the pressure reaches the permissible maximum, and vice versa, to turn it on when the pressure drops below the permissible minimum. You can set the values of the maximum and minimum pressures directly on the relay using springs, with the large spring responsible for the minimum pressure (and the corresponding activation of the compressor), and the small one for the difference between the maximum and minimum pressure values.
Take a closer look and you will see 2 contacts on the relay, designed specifically for connecting it to the network. Since such relays were originally used in the water supply system, we will slightly change its purpose and connection features. Our task is to connect the first contact to the network, and the second to the compressor.
We place the general shutdown switch on the gap between the pressure switch and the 220V network. This will help de-energize the entire installation so that you don’t have to constantly run around to turn it on and off.
We paint the receiver and begin final assembly.
Screw the nut with the fitting onto the oil-moisture separator filter.
We take the hose and put one end of it on the fitting, and with the other we pull it onto the compressor tube and clamp it all with clamps. To do this, we take a reinforced, oil-resistant hose. Each threaded connection should be sealed with fum tape.
We screw the filter to the bottom of the receiver and treat the silicone connection with sealant.
We screw on the cast iron lid, but pre-treat its threaded connection with the same sealant. To improve sealing, you can place a rubber gasket under the lid.
You need to screw a tube onto the lid, the thread of which should be a quarter of an inch, and screw the cross onto it.

Features of operation and safety measures

When operating this device, it is necessary to remember that the engine will be operated in almost extreme conditions, this can lead to its overheating and failure. Therefore, it is advisable to use it, providing it with a short technological break, which will allow the engine to cool.

When working with a compressor, certain safety measures must be observed, namely:

It is prohibited to operate the mechanism if there is damage to the surface of the connecting sleeves and electrical wiring.
It is strictly prohibited to operate the product if there is damage to the surface of the receiver or devices mounted on it.
If oil leaks are detected, measures must be taken immediately to eliminate them.
Ensure that the device is turned off if foreign odors and noises appear, which indicate the appearance of some operating problems.

It is advisable not to allow minor children to work with the compressor device.

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Installation of device parts

For ease of storage and movement, it is best to arrange all compressor parts compactly on one base. We will use a wooden board as a base, on which we securely mount the engine - supercharger and fire extinguisher housing.

We fix the compressor motor using threaded rods threaded into pre-drilled holes and nuts with washers. We place the receiver vertically, using three sheets of plywood to secure it, in one of which we cut a hole for the cylinder.

We attach the other two using self-tapping screws to the supporting board and glue them to the sheet holding the receiver. Under the bottom of the receiver, at the base, we hollow out a recess of appropriate size. For maneuverability, we screw wheels made from furniture fittings to our base. Next we perform the following operations:

We protect our system from dust and coarse particles, for which we use a coarse fuel filter for gasoline engines as an air intake. For this purpose, we use a rubber hose that tightly presses the filter fitting and the inlet tube of the supercharger. There is low pressure at the compressor inlet and reinforcement of contact using automotive clamps is not required. Thus, we made an inlet filter for the compressor with our own hands.

An oil separator should be installed at the compressor outlet; it will not allow liquid particles to pass through. We use a diesel engine power system filter as this protection element. We connect it to the supercharger using an oil-resistant hose. Since the pressure at the outlet of the compressor is increased, here and everywhere else, to strengthen the contact, we use automotive clamps with fasteners tightened with a screw.

We connect the oil-moisture separating filter to the input of the gearbox. We need a reducer to decouple the pressure of the receiver and the outlet of the supercharger. We screw its high-pressure outlet into the water crosspiece on the left or right.

We screw a pressure gauge from the opposite entrance of the quad, using it we will control the pressure of compressed air in the cylinder. We screw the adjusting relay on top of the cross. We seal all connections with fum tape and sealant.

The relay will allow you to set a wide range of pressure levels in the receiver, promptly interrupting the supercharger power supply circuit. You can choose PM5 or RDM5 as the actuator. These devices will turn on the compressor if the compressed air pressure in the receiver drops below the set level, and turn off when the specified range is exceeded. The required pressure is adjusted on the relay using two springs. The large spring sets the minimum pressure level, and the small one regulates the upper limit, setting the compressor shutdown limit. RDM5 and PM5 were originally produced for use in the water supply network and are electrically passive, that is, they are ordinary switches with two contacts. We connect one contact to the zero of the 220 V network, and the second to the supercharger.

We connect the phase wire of the network through a toggle switch to the second network input of the compressor. The introduction of a toggle switch into the electrical circuit allows you to quickly disconnect the system from power without having to run to the outlet every time. We solder all electrical connections and carefully insulate them.

Homemade drive supercharger for a VAZ with your own hands

One of the possibilities to extend the life of an old car, for example any VAZ 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112, is its tuning. Of course, in this case we are not talking about installing new wheels and covers, but primarily about increasing engine power. And one of the simplest and most affordable options for ensuring this is to install a mechanical supercharger on the motor yourself.

MECHANICAL SUPERCHARGER FOR VAZ – PROS AND CONS

The larger the engine and the more cylinders it has, the higher its power. This is the very first conclusion when observing motors and machines. But this is not always the case.

The more fuel burned in the engine cylinders, the more power it can produce. But the cylinder volume is finite, and I want to have increased power.

This is where a mechanical air blower comes to the rescue.

The principle of its operation is extremely simple and works on any car, including the VAZ 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112 family - it provides additional air to the engine, resulting in:

the purging of the cylinders increases, and they are better freed from the remains of burnt fuel;
more fuel enters the engine cylinders, which ensures more power;
The compression ratio increases, which also gives an increase in power.

This approach is almost similar to the turbo mode used on diesel engines.

Only there, for these purposes, a turbocharger is used, driven by exhaust gases, and in this case, a mechanical air blower, which is connected to the engine crankshaft by a belt.

This approach is much simpler, the air supply depends on the engine speed, the higher it is, the more air is supplied; and also does not require ensuring the operating modes of the turbine and can be done with your own hands on any VAZ car.

It is worth considering that if a mechanical supercharger is installed on a VAZ injection car, then a firmware change will be required. However, a similar modification can be made for a carburetor car, only in this case, most likely, you will have to change the jets in the carburetor and adjust the ignition timing.

Do not forget that you are boosting a VAZ engine, be it any of its models 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112, the work must be carried out comprehensively, and only then is it possible to obtain the expected result. However, this is not such a big price to pay for the increase in power.

HOW TO INSTALL AN AIR SUPERCHARGER WITH YOUR OWN HANDS

There are several approaches that allow you to install a mechanical air blower on VAZ family cars with your own hands.

This means making a device yourself that provides turbo mode or boosting the engine, or using a ready-made KIT kit.

HOMEMADE SUPERCHARGER FOR VAZ

With this approach, the mechanical air blower will be decisive. The entire future design depends on it. The main thing is to find an air supercharger from an imported car that meets the requirements, or you will have to use a homemade one. This is also possible, and in this case suitable parts and components from completely unexpected devices, for example, a vacuum cleaner, are used.

When making such a homemade air supercharger, you need to take literally everything into account - dimensions, weight, placement in the engine compartment, how and where the drive pulley and belt will be located, the performance of this device, operating modes (short-term or long-term), the possibility of lubrication and much, much more. Once the compressor becomes clear, it is necessary to calculate the implementation of the turbo mode for the engine.

Here it is necessary to take into account how the fuel and cooling system of the car will be changed, what changes need to be made to its control and how to do this, what pressure will be acceptable for safe operation of the engine when implementing a turbo mode using such a device.

Even the far from complete list of questions shown shows that making a homemade air supercharger for a VAZ of any family, be it 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112, is quite difficult, but possible.

An example would be a photo showing that such work has been successfully completed.
True, this is not a VAZ, but the fact itself is important - it is possible to make a homemade air compressor in which its drive unit is connected to the engine crankshaft.

DRIVE SUPERCHARGER WITH YOUR HANDS – FROM A KIT

Yes, there are such kits on sale that allow you to implement the turbo mode in VAZ 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112 cars with your own hands. As a rule, it includes everything needed to assemble and install such a device on a car - the compressor itself, belts, drive unit , brackets and air ducts. What such a kit is like can be seen in the photo below.

The main advantage of this approach to implementing the turbo mode on your car is the simplicity and complete adaptation of technical solutions to a specific option - 2107, 2106, 2114, 2112. As a rule, the manufacturers of kit kits are Chinese manufacturers, which ensures their fairly reasonable price.

As an advantage of implementing the turbo mode in this way, it is worth noting that it is tailored specifically to VAZ cars of one model or another (2107, 2106, 2114, 2112). The advantages of this approach also include the fact that under some conditions, when the level of additional pressure created is not more than half a bar, no intervention is required in the vehicle’s fuel system.

Compressor testing and adjustment

Now all that remains is to paint the entire compressor and move on to field testing.

After assembling the structure, you should check its functionality. We connect a spray gun or a tire inflation gun to the compressor output. After that, with the toggle switch off, plug in the plug into the network. We set the control relay to minimum pressure and then apply power to the supercharger. The pressure created in the receiver is controlled using a pressure gauge. After making sure that when a certain level is reached, the relay turns off the engine, we check the tightness of the air ducts and connections. This is easy to do with a soap solution.

After making sure that the compressed air does not leave the system, we bleed it from the receiver chamber. As soon as the pressure in the cylinder drops below the set mark, the relay should operate and start the compressor. If everything is functioning properly, you can try painting some unnecessary part. Preliminary work to prepare the surface for applying enamel is not required here - it is important for us to develop skills and determine what pressure will be required to paint the product. We experimentally determine the value in atmospheres at which the excess pressure is enough to paint the entire part in a uniform layer with a minimum number of blower activations.

How to use a refrigerator compressor

Having some technical knowledge and knowing how to use diagrams and instructions, you can transform the motor from a non-working refrigerator into anything you want, upgrading and adding sensors, relays, pressure gauges, and a receiver. Possible options:

An old rusty part will displace air, so just connect it to a tire, plug it in and start using it to inflate bicycle or car tires.
If you unscrew the oil filter from the car tank, the compressor will be used to pump out excess oil. The main thing is to constantly monitor the fluid level and voltage in the network, and do not neglect safety precautions even in the garage.

Reference! The compressor works quite slowly, so it will not inflate more than 2 tires in a row. Overvoltage in the network is also possible, causing the unit to fail.

Compressor for inflating tires from a refrigerator

To obtain a unit for quickly inflating wheels with an output operating pressure of up to 3 atm, you will need:

compressor;
connection cable with plug;
car air filter;
oxygen hose for pipes;
spiral hose with removable adapters;
air gun for inflating wheels;
wires and clamps;
screwdriver, pliers, knife.

Details about the main stages of work:

Use a hacksaw to saw off the motor from the radiator of the refrigeration unit.
Select an oxygen hose according to the diameter of the pipe.
Connect the air filter to the inlet of the compressor unit.
Use a knife to cut off the pipe (made of plastic) for pumping out air, without closing the hole.
Bend the copper tubes of the motor in different directions.
Place one air filter and a second one at the outlet of the copper pipe, clamping the joints with electrical tape (self-tapping screws).
Attach a piece of oxygen hose.
Connect the spiral hose using an adapter. Attach an air gun to inflate the tires.

The main thing is that the pressure in the filter and hoses is average. Additionally, you can compress the trigger of the air gun with a nylon tie to prevent jumping.

Reference! Air filters (made of plastic) are the weak point in the installation. They can quickly burst when the tire pressure increases by 2-3 atmospheres. When assembling the structure, it is important to turn off the thermostat by marking the contacts on the start relay and insulating it with a wire so that an accidental electric shock does not occur.

Adjustment and testing

The main test of a homemade compressor is to determine the possibility of effectively regulating the pressure that is created in the assembled system. The easiest way to do this is to test paint a surface. In this case, the following is done sequentially:

Set the relay to 4…5 atmospheres.
Connect the compressor to the network.
The stability of the parameter is monitored using a pressure gauge. If the relay is operational, then if the pressure is exceeded, it will turn off the compressor; otherwise, open the relief valve and immediately turn off the unit.
Check the system for spontaneous bleeding of the energy carrier, for which you can use a regular soap solution.
When the pressure drops to a level below the minimum permissible, the relay should automatically turn on the compressor.
After painting any surface, it is necessary to check the quality of the paint applied to it - during an external inspection, no traces of moisture, foreign particles and dirt should be detected. If such defects do occur, you should additionally check the operation of the output filter - oil and water separator.

Disadvantages of the electric option

Many of my readers think that making such a system is very simple, you need to take some kind of cooler and insert it into the air intake pipe and that’s happiness! Such “miracle coolers” are usually sold in Chinese online stores; we’ll talk about these types below.

However, guys, not everything is so simple here. In normal (idling) mode, a naturally aspirated 1.6-liter engine consumes approximately 300 - 400 liters of air per hour of operation. And at high speeds, say 4000 - 5000, we multiply this figure by 4 - 5, that is, 1200 - 1600 liters. Just imagine this volume! If you calculate the minute consumption 300/60 = 5 liters per minute, or 20 at high speeds.

Conclusions and recommendations for maintenance

The operation of the assembled unit will be long and reliable if routine maintenance is carried out periodically. It comes down to replacing inlet filters, periodically purging all air ducts, and also changing the oil in the compressor.

It is undesirable to load the compressor by more than 75% of power. But it is quite difficult to understand where the line is that cannot be crossed, to predict what pressure the compressor will show. It depends on when the refrigerator was released and what brand it is. On older models this figure will be better. Then, for comfortable, high-quality work, you only need to replace the consumable filters.

Compressors using all sorts of unnecessary things as receivers

If, when choosing compressors and motors, craftsmen settled on components from refrigerators and cars, then they do not use anything as receivers - even bottles of champagne and Coca-Cola (at pressures up to 2 atm). Let's list a few worthwhile ideas.

If you have a receiver from KrAZ at hand, you can get a unit with minimal labor costs: all the pipes are already screwed into it.

Compressor unit with receiver from KrAZ

If you are the owner of unnecessary diving equipment, you can use it at work.

Receiver made from scuba cylinders (installation stage - without capacitor bank)

Almost every summer resident with a stove on gas cylinders will have these unnecessary containers.

Compressors with gas cylinder receivers

If the hydraulic accumulator in the water supply system has a leaky bulb, there is no need to throw it away. Use it as a receiver by removing the rubber membrane.

Receiver from hydraulic accumulator

An expansion tank from a VAZ is an inexpensive purchase, even if it is new.

Receiver - expansion tank from a VAZ car

The next idea is for air conditioner installers who have leftover freon cylinders and split system parts.

Freon cylinder as a receiver

Another viable receiver came from a tubeless car wheel. An extremely budget-friendly, although not very productive model.

Wheel receiver

We invite you to watch a video about this experience from the author of the design.