Many of us are fascinated by how people lived in Ancient Greece. We love their myths and legends, heroes and wars in which they participated. We have all heard stories about the mighty and invincible Hercules, the long and heroic Trojan War, the brave and intelligent hero Theseus and the legendary 300 Spartans. This admiration for this culture has largely been facilitated by modern cinema, which produces gorgeous films based on the stories of the Ancient World. Most of us, thanks to such cinematic works, can have a clear idea of what exactly the warriors of those times looked like. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows why the soldiers of Ancient Greece dressed this way, what this or that equipment was intended for, and why the ancient Greek military headdresses were called “Spartan helmets.” This is exactly what will be discussed in this article.
Ancient Sparta
Sparta is a warlike state that existed on the territory of modern Greece in the period up to 146 BC. and was located in the southern part of this country. The basis of the state system was the principle of absolute equality and unity. The main support and economic power of Sparta was its army, which in ancient times was the most combat-ready in the world.
All men were experienced warriors and served from adolescence to old age. The men of Sparta did not engage in housework, since it was considered menial work, which was performed by slaves instead of them. It is worth noting that the latter were especially harshly treated in this country: they did not have any rights at all. An interesting fact is that the slaves of Sparta were only Greeks from the conquered territories, and each of them belonged to the entire Spartan society.
Stormtrooper Suit: Making Tips
“Armor” for a stormtrooper suit:
- After you adjust the drawings of the components of the costume to your height, cut them out. With the help of fasteners, all these parts will be assembled into a single whole - they can be made of PVC. One file includes drawings for the right and left arms, the other for the right and left legs.
- As many as three sections serve to protect the stormtrooper’s body: one of them protects the abs; the second - the upper part of the body; the third is the thoracic region.
About the protective part of the stormtrooper ab suit (Stormtrooper AbPlate pdo):
- The protective part of the press also covers part of the back of the militant hero. The printout of the drawings fits on 17 pages, but a stand will also be made from it, where the thermal detonator will be placed. Since the parts are quite large in size, it will be easy for you to work with them; some difficulties usually arise when creating this particular stand.
About upper body protection (Ep7 stormtrooper back papercraft):
- The Stormtrooper's upper body protection is an "armored vest"; it will require 18 printed pages to produce.
- The back part is “decorated” with relief rounded indentations. Assembling this protection is quite simple.
About making a chest plate (First order stormtrooper chest):
- To make a chest plate you will need 11 sheets of paper; it will not be as easy to assemble as, for example, upper torso protection.
- Once you assemble it, attach it with Velcro or magnets.
We make “armor” for hands (Shoulder and hand plate pdo):
- Drawings for glove pads and costume shoulders are located in one file.
- They are printed on 7 pages, the complexity of assembly is average.
Making biceps for the Stormtrooper suit (First order stormtrooper forearm download):
- In order to make biceps for a stormtrooper, you will need 8 sheets.
- Their assembly is not difficult, but there may be some hiccups when creating joints.
Making forearms for a stormtrooper (Stormtrooper arms download template):
- Their production is more complex, but they are interesting to do.
- You will need to spend 8 sheets of paper to assemble them.
We make protection for the groin area and pelvis (Crotch and butt plate papercraft):
- They come in one file; it will take 9 pages.
- They are quite simple to assemble.
We make protection for the hips and knees (Thigh and Knee papercraft):
- Their drawings occupy one file; For production you will need 18 paper sheets.
The stormtrooper suit is difficult to create, but the result is amazing.
We make protection for the shins and ankle joints (Stormtrooper shin and ankle):
- You will need to spend 18 pages to assemble them; assembly difficulty is average.
We make accessories for a stormtrooper costume (First order belt and accesories pdo):
- Accessories in the form of boxes and a thermal detonator are attached to the belt.
- To build them you will need fourteen sheets of paper.
- But remember that some of the parts for which the fabric is used are not in the drawings.
We will also tell you how to make costumes:
- Rapunzel
- frogs
- Brown bear and polar bear
- Prince
- Witches
- Ryaba chickens
- Bullfinch
Untrue fact
There is a misconception that Spartan warriors did not have protective clothing. It spread thanks to the Hollywood film "300". In fact, this is not true: each warrior was very well equipped not only with weapons, but also with quite impressive protective equipment.
The basis of the Spartan army was made up of heavily armed infantrymen - hoplites. Their weapons consisted of a spear, a short sword, and a round Spartan shield, which is well recognized throughout the world thanks to the Latin letter “lambda” on it. In addition, the soldiers wore armor, leggings and characteristic Spartan helmets. The description of this equipment will be interesting to many, and we will talk about this a little later. In addition to hoplites, the Spartan army also included auxiliary cavalry - the so-called horsemen, who were of no practical importance, as well as archers.
Clone Mask Star Wars
#1 SpyceR
What we need for this: 1, printer 2, drawing paper 3, glue (I took super gel, but take any) 4, scissors 5, pen and a lot of patience
First we need to choose what we will do. I took the model from the site swmodel.ru. If the file is in PDO format, don’t be alarmed, download Pepakura.Designer from the Yandex server or somewhere else. Next, open the model
Next, we cut it out and glue it (tip: on the fold lines, run a pen along the paper, pressing firmly on it. The paper in these places will begin to bend without the need to unstick everything and bend it).
For greater convenience, the creators of Pepakura.Designer came up with a very interesting little thing: press the key combination Ctrl+k. A window will come out. and if you click on a detail that is boring to us, it will be highlighted on the printout.
As a result, we have something like this photo
What we need for this: 1, epoxy glue (90 RUR per pack) you need at least 2 2, a brush 3, a stand for the helmet (so that it doesn’t touch the floor) I took an ordinary box and inserted it into the helmet 4, newspapers so that it doesn’t accidentally stain the floor and again patience
First you need to place the helmet on a makeshift stand on a newspaper.
Then take a brush and apply a layer of epoxy resin. We wait until it dries (24 hours) and apply epoxy again. And so about four times.
Then we take fiberglass, or mesh fabric, and use the same epoxy to apply it to the inside of the helmet.
like this
What we need for this: 1, auto putty or aqua putty for wood
Take auto putty and apply it on top of the helmet
After letting it dry, we cut out a hole for the visor and, using an adhesive plaster, attach it to the base.
What we need for this: 1, Adhesive plaster 2, Film (visor base) 3, Tinting film
1) First we take and cut out the visor from paper.
2) Then, we take the film, degrease it and tint it. So. How to tint correctly? Fill a basin with warm, soapy water. We put film in a basin and glue the tint in water. After that, take out the film. And carefully (with a cloth) remove the remaining drops of water from under the tint. Then we wait until it all dries.
3) Having placed the paper visor on the workplace (so that it does not slide or move back and forth), we take the tinted film and place it on top (it also needs to be secured so that it does not slip)
4) Using careful and leisurely movements, cut out the visor from the film. And now, the most important thing. When cutting a visor from a film, you need it to be larger than the paper one (about 1cm on each side) That is. The cut-out film visor will be larger than the paper visor.
Spartan helmets: characteristic differences between different types
The Spartans were one of the first in history to create heavy uniforms for their soldiers, since the main component of their army, the hoplites, needed it vitally. Second place in importance (after, of course, shields) was confidently taken by Spartan helmets. The importance of this element of armor for warriors is difficult to overestimate, because it protects such a vulnerable place as the head. It was impossible to make a real Spartan helmet with your own hands: even in that distant time there were special technologies for this.
Throughout Greece, including Sparta, the Corinthian helmet was widespread.
He coped well with his main task - protecting his head from a spear during horse fights, but at the same time, such a Spartan helmet, a photo of which can be seen in the article, had its drawbacks. He partially limited his vision, which narrowed the vision of the warriors and, by covering his ears, significantly reduced their hearing. By the end of the 6th century BC. e. A Chalcidian type of helmet appeared, which did not have a nasal cap, and there were special holes in the ear area. It is worth noting that the strength of this type was inferior to Corinthian helmets, since due to the fact that they were not solid, the products bent quite easily.
Motorcycle helmet manufacturing technology
You cannot ride a motorcycle or a scooter without a protective helmet - this is an immutable requirement of the State Traffic Inspectorate. But, unfortunately, our industry produces clearly not enough helmets that fully meet safety requirements, so many motorcycle racers and amateur motorcyclists make them with their own hands.
Here are several options for “integral” helmets developed by Moscow karting drivers under the leadership of K. Kruglikov. These helmets (Fig. 1) protect the athlete's head from injury better than open ones. So their appearance is not due to aesthetics (although this is important - “integrals” look much better than standard “caps”), but the result of increased speeds on auto and motorcycle tracks. Anyone can make such helmets.
Rice. 1. “Integral” helmets, designed by K. Potekhin.
But first, about safety precautions. The fact is that you will be dealing with resins, paints, solvents, that is, with substances that are far from harmless.
Before starting work, your hands must be soaped or covered with silicone cream; when it's dry, put on thin rubber gloves. Gluing is best done outdoors, and if this is not possible, then under an exhaust hood and in a respirator. To avoid ruining your clothes, use an apron made of rubberized fabric, oilcloth, or at least plastic film. If resin gets on unprotected skin, remove it immediately and wash the area with warm water and soap.
When drawing the appearance, do not try to invent what has already been invented, try to first select all the information necessary for designing a helmet - pictures and photographs.
After roughly defining the prototype, draw the appearance of the helmet in three projections and begin making the dummy. Its basis can be a three-liter glass jar. The “integral” shape is made using plasticine (preferably hard, intended for artistic work). The dimensions of the dummy must correspond exactly to the dimensions of the helmet without any allowances. The approximate dimensions of one of the simplest helmets are shown in Figure 2.
Rice. 2. Basic dimensions and appearance of the simplest “integral” helmet.
The next stage is gluing the intermediate matrix. It should consist of two halves with flanges along the parting plane, the thickness of the shell is 5-10 mm.
You can glue both halves of the matrix at once, separating them along the parting plane with a partition made of oiled paper or thin cardboard, or you can apply the composite first to one half of the block with a plasticine partition on the parting plane. Then, after removing the plasticine and lubricating the flanging with release mastic, glue the second half. Release mastic is a solution of wax in gasoline, an emulsion based on polyvinyl alcohol, or a parquet paste, such as Edelvax. Without removing the matrix from the block, drill five or six 06 mm holes in the flange for the bolts that hold the halves together.
Rice. 3. Manufacturing of the first (intermediate) matrix.
Don't be embarrassed that the first (intermediate) matrix will have a surface that is far from ideal. Since it is almost impossible to modify the inside of it, it is necessary to make it possible to work with the outer surface. To do this, a “shell” is glued into the intermediate matrix, which is brought to an ideal state, and the second (working) matrix is removed from it.
Rice. 4. Location of holes in the “shell”.
The helmet shell is glued from fiberglass and epoxy (plasticized, otherwise 3-5% dibutyl phthalate or 3-4% castor oil is added to the resin) or polyester resin. It is best to pre-cut fiberglass into pieces of 100 x 100 mm. Such “napkins” are impregnated with resin and placed in a matrix. If you want the shell to be colored, add the appropriate pigment to the resin. The thickness of the helmet shell should be about 4 mm. To better compact the structure of the composite, a chamber from a soccer ball is placed inside the freshly glued “shell” and inflated with a pump.
Fig.5. Attaching protective glass to a helmet.
After two days, the matrix is removed from the “shell”, the “burr” is cleared off with the last hacksaw and file, and the main stage of the work thus ends.
Fig.6. Option for the location of holes for mounting fasteners for a helmet for a motorcyclist.
Finishing begins with careful sanding of the helmet, after which any detected defects are smoothed out with nitro putty. It is best to putty in several passes, with sanding in between.
Rice.
7 Construction of the inside of the helmet. Next, several layers of liquid nitro putty should be applied to the shell, and after thorough drying, the “shell” is leveled with waterproof sandpaper (with kerosene or water). Then the surface is covered with the first (developing) layer of paint. Detected defects are leveled with putty and again treated with waterproof sandpaper until the surface is completely smooth.
Fig.8. Belt buckle design.
The final operation is painting the helmet. Almost any enamel is suitable for this - nitro-, glyphthalic or alkyd. The shell is coated three to four times, if possible without any unpainting or drips. The helmet should be dried strictly following the drying technology for this paint. After drying, the surface of the helmet is polished with pastes to a mirror shine.
Fig.9. Appearance of a leather belt.
The next stage is the assembly of the “integral”. First, a chain of 01.5 mm holes is drilled around the perimeter of the lower and front parts of the helmet. The distance between the holes is 10 mm, and from the edge of the helmet - 7-8 mm. Next, six holes are marked for attaching protective glass and straps. The holes for the glass are marked so that it rises to the position shown in the figure. If the helmet is intended for a motorcyclist, then instead of 4 holes for attaching glass to the helmet at forehead level, three holes are cut for the mate parts of the visor buttons and two for attaching belts. Calculate the location of the holes so that the visor does not block the rider’s field of vision. The reciprocal parts of the buttons can be secured with M4 bolts with a countersunk head. After installing the fasteners, the inside of the “shell” is covered with pieces of soft foam plastic 40X 40X 20 mm, for which use “88” glue. The thickness of the bars depends on the size of the rider's head. It is necessary to glue the foam plastic, retreating from the edges of the helmet by 15 mm - sewing on the lining will be much more convenient.
Fig. 10. Protective glass.
(A - for a “round” helmet, B - for a helmet with a crest).
Straps, lining material, leather and artificial leather - everything should be black - this is both more practical, and this color looks best in combination with any color of the helmet. Belts should be either nylon or nylon, their width is 20-25 mm with a thickness of 1-2.5 mm. Belts from ski poles or wristwatches are quite suitable, for example. The buckle is made of stainless steel - 03 mm wire. The straps are attached to the helmet with a bolt with a chrome-plated spherical head (M5 thread).
Rice. 11. Bushing (material - D16T) to the lock (steel) for fastening the glass.
The lining is a cap sewn in two layers of knitted fabric. It is advisable to use synthetic fabric. Foam rubber 10-20 mm thick is placed between the layers, and the lining is stitched so that symmetrical thickenings are formed in the area of the back of the head, cheekbones and forehead.
In the lower part of the helmet in front of the chin, instead of a lining, a block of foam plastic, fitted to the shape of the lower part of the product, covered with leather or leatherette, is attached.
The lining is inserted into the helmet and sewn with thread through pre-drilled holes. A seal from passenger car doors is put on the front and bottom parts of the helmet or a U-shaped rubber profile is glued.
Glass is cut according to a template from celluloid or similar unbreakable material with a thickness of 0.8-1.5 mm. Plexiglas should not be used - it is very dangerous for the eyes and face of the rider. The buttons are installed on the glass in such a way that when raised up it does not fall spontaneously, especially when driving.
K. Potekhin
Pylos - Spartan helmets
At the same time, as fighting techniques progressed and developed, the uniforms of the warriors naturally changed. When Laconian combat tactics began to gain popularity, the soldiers needed to hear the trumpet, the whistle of which marked the beginning of the battle. Keen vision and good hearing were extremely important. That is why helmets were modified. The Corinthian helmet was replaced by the pilos helmet. This prototype was a hat, which was made of felt material and had a conical shape.
Over time, a pilos helmet made of bronze appeared, which completely repeated the shape of a felt cap, but based on some ancient Greek records, we can conclude that this type did not quite cope with its protective function, since it was not very durable.
What can a Star Wars stormtrooper costume be made from: drawings
- The movie First Order stormtrooper is dressed in a rather complex design, and it is not easy to make such a suit at home. But if you set a goal and try hard, then it will become a completely feasible undertaking. After all, nothing is impossible for real men!
- The costume in which the stormtroopers of the latest Star Wars are dressed, as well as their formidable weapons, have changed somewhat. The filmmakers modernized the stormtroopers, resulting in their armor becoming sleeker and more streamlined.
- What can you use to make a Star Wars Stormtrooper costume? You can construct a suit either from foamiran fabric or from paper sheets , or you can combine both of these materials.
- Using a reamer designed to work with foamiran fabric, assembling the helmet and other parts of the suit is quite simple. But, let's be honest, the end result would like to be better - at least it seems so to us.
- The guys who have already experimented with both types of materials claim that a stormtrooper helmet made from paper sheets turns out to be the closest to the original - although you have to tinker with paper longer.
- Difficulties in assembly arise due to the mass of small parts, mainly small strips of paper that act as grooves. In addition to paper sheets, you will need a lot of different materials and tools - we will tell you about all of them below during our master class.
- The basis for everything is drawings! Download the template for making a 1st order stormtrooper helmet using paper sheets from : Star Wars Ep7 The Force Awakens Stormtrooper helmet
- If we are based on this particular development, then the helmet will be 28 cm in height; paper sheets will have to be used in the amount of 14 pieces. Since many men have a large skull structure, such a helmet may be too small for them. In this case, it is worth increasing its size to 30 cm.
Helmet
For the press
Upper body
On the chest
Shoulders
For biceps
Forearm Protection
On the belt
On the hips
For shins
- Pepakura Designer computer program - this will require installation on your laptop or PC. In this software package, you can easily select among a variety of scans those that match your dimensions.
- Our master class describes how to make costume parts for a person with a height of 176 cm, but the versatility of the suit allows it to be worn also by people with a height of 170 to 187 cm. If you are below or slightly above the indicated size range, then using the program, you You will be able to choose some costume details in the size you need.
- Once you have the size drawings you need, print out all the details on paper sheets. Printing paper in A4 format is not suitable for such purposes; It is better to use whatman paper in A1 format (paper density should be about 200).
- To glue the paper blanks of the costume you will need PVA glue.
- The glued base of the suit (there are no spacers in it yet) should look like this:
Varieties of the Predator helmet
The basis for the “Predator” line of motorcycle helmets from the Nitrinos studio is its basic version, which is characterized by the following indicators:
- Sizes : XS 53-54 cm.
- S 55-56 cm.
- M 57-58 cm.
- L 59-60 cm.
- XL 61-62 cm.
- XXL 63-64 cm.
- Color : matte black.
- Visor : light.
- Dreadlocks : 22 pcs., length 34 cm.
- Weight : 1820 g
The basic version can be given an almost unique look with the help of additional upgrades.
Additional options include:
LED module . It consists of three red LEDs built into the helmet body on the right side. Switching on is done by a button located at the bottom of the helmet. Connects to two AAA batteries.
Laser module . It consists of three red lasers in a single housing, built into the helmet body on the right side. Switching on is done by a button located at the bottom of the helmet. Powered by two AAA batteries.
Painting with one color . Additionally, the motorcycle helmet is painted in any color at the request of the customer.
Additional dark visor . In addition to the light one, you can order a replaceable dark visor for sun protection.
DIY Predator helmet
On the Internet I found a cool work by a guy (unfortunately, only his name is known about the author - Andrey) - a do-it-yourself predator helmet. I liked it and decided to share it with you:
“It all started with the phrase “nooo, it’s impossible to do this yourself.” I'm pleased with the result, it seems to have turned out well) "
The basis for the helmet was some kind of Chinese trash. They tore out all of its foam-rubber insides from the donor. They will still be useful to us.
Inside the helmet there was this foam “helmet”. We adjust it to the size of our head and fix it on the slipway.
Using a soldering iron, we begin to give it the desired shape + add the missing parts.
We go to the stationery store and buy 2 briquettes of art plasticine and apply it on top of the foam form.
Having given the plasticine the shape we need, we try to smooth the surface as much as possible, for this we use a wet roller. When the surface becomes smooth, you can begin the most complex process.
Application of fiberglass! We do it this way: we cut the fiberglass into small pieces, prepare a small portion of epoxy resin, apply the resin over the plasticine and apply a piece of fabric. There's more resin on top.
In this way we form several layers of fiberglass.
After the layers have dried, we cut down our structure with a grinder.
We take out the remains of the slipway. Using an industrial hairdryer we melt plasticine from everywhere.
Next, we clean the surface using a grinding wheel attached to a drill. Attention. During this process, thousands of glass needles appear in the air - so protect all exposed areas of the body, especially the nose, mouth, and eyes.
The next stage is preparation and painting. Using automotive putty, we bring the surface to a perfectly smooth state (to make it look better than in the photo: when painting, all the “sides” may come out).
Well, now you can start painting.
Next, according to the plan, you need to add “dreadlocks”. We buy laces (the thickest ones you can find). We drill holes in the back of the helmet and thread the laces through them. We fuse washers inside so that our dreadlocks don’t get pulled out.
What's a predator's helmet without a sight? 3 LEDs are mounted in a special cavity. The crown battery and the key are brought out into the jaw.
We remove the strap from the donor's helmet and attach it to ours, using rivets.
Now the interior finishing. We take the remains of the previous helmet - cut it off and cover the foam inserts with soft fabric. Here's what happens:
There are 7 such plates in total, all of them are of different shapes, for different parts of the head. We glue the elements with “Moment”.
Well, the robot’s final touch is the visor. Made of tinted plexiglass. Glued tightly. Yes, it’s a little inconvenient, but it’s a formal helmet, not for every day. Here's what happens:
In general, the robot is quite cool and interesting. If you think carefully, you can still make some modifications (applies to some parts and the visor)…..the impossible does not happen.)))
Cost of the Predator protective helmet
The price of the basic professional model of the Predator helmet varies depending on the manufacturer and can range from 20 to 35 thousand rubles.
Additional accessories are not included in the price and can be purchased upon request. All masters and motorcycle studios include personal equipment in the basic and additional package, producing individual and almost unique helmets for each customer. By adding additional options, the product becomes spectacular, but the price increases significantly.
