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Procedure for removing a concrete pillar
The base for the jack or lever is laid out with the expectation that the pillar’s foundation, when emerging from the ground, will not affect the supporting structure. That is, there should be no concrete under the ground on which the blocks are laid. Further steps to dismantle the rack in various ways:
- The jack is installed on the constructed base under the support on the pole and the lifting to the length of the rod begins. Then the jack is removed and blocks are added to the base. The lifting continues until the concrete foundation completely emerges from the ground.
- The lever is brought under the stop, rolled up to the chock post, the ground under it should be free. 2-3 people apply force to the end of the lever.
- The loop of the chain is looped over the lever. The rack is lifted by applying pressure to the free end of the pipe or log.
The depth of laying the foundation under the fence posts is in the range of 50–70 cm. With such a depth, it will not be difficult to dig around the concrete base and knock down the post, throwing a rope over the top. After this, using crowbars, edge the product to the designated place.
Attention! If it turns out to be the concrete stepson of a wooden power line support, then it can go 3 m into the ground. In this case, dismantling the pole with the help of lifting equipment will be easy.
How to quickly uproot the base of a wooden post
Hello to all do-it-yourselfers, as well as summer residents!
Recently, when the snow melted and the ground began to dry out, I ran into one small problem. It consisted in the fact that at the very exit from the garden, next to the gate, a small tubercle came out of the ground. Moreover, the further it went, the higher it became and gradually began to interfere with the passage, and even later, the lower edge of the gate began to cling to it when opening.
When I dug up this bump with a shovel, it turned out that it was a wooden stump, or rather, the base of an old wooden post, apparently preserved from the days of an old wooden fence. Moreover, over the past few years, this stump did not show any signs of life, but this spring, for some reason, it began to actively crawl out of the ground.
This is what this stump looks like.
Naturally, there was nothing left to do but uproot this stump.
Moreover, I decided to do this, which is called “little blood”, and did not dig a large hole around the stump, but simply tapped it with a sledgehammer, shaking it from side to side.
And then, I tried to pull out this stump with a crowbar.
However, this was not the case. It turned out that the stump sits quite firmly in the ground. But most importantly, it seemed to me that when pulling it out with a crowbar, when the crowbar picks up the stump from only one side, it warps, which is why it actually becomes very difficult to pull it out. Moreover, this stump is quite long and sits quite deep, at least 60-70 cm.
As a result, it became obvious that in order to uproot this stump using a crowbar, you need to dig a deeper hole around it (30-40 centimeters deep). However, I really didn’t want to do this, since the ground around the stump is very compacted, and in addition, there are a lot of stones and fragments of bricks that were filled in and compacted when installing the wooden post.
And then another idea came to me. It seemed to me that if I made some kind of powerful metal hook and hammered it into this stump, then by applying a vertical force with a crowbar exactly in the center of the stump, it could be pulled out quite easily.
As a result, I rummaged through old pieces of iron and found this ancient door handle. Moreover, this handle is quite old, perhaps from the 19th century, since it is forged and quite durable.
Materials and tools for making a simple device
This is what I decided to use to pull out the stump, especially since this handle just fits the diameter of the stump.
In addition to the pen, I needed the following tools and materials:
- Two long wood screws.
- Cordless screwdriver.
- Screwdriver bit RN2, for driving screws into stumps.
How to pull a concrete pillar out of the ground with your bare hands
If there is no thrust bearing, then either a jack or a winch.
quote: Originally posted by Nkibmshy: Stop by the metal receiving station and tell them about the two rails, then just watch the beautiful work
It’s immediately obvious that the person understands!
quote: Originally posted by APTEMOB: A rope loop on a rail, with an attempt to pull it out with a lever. Can anyone recommend the best scheme?
The simplest thing is a log, a board placed on its edge as a long lever, and a support - a stone on the ground.
Try to rock the rails a little, for example, by hitting the top edge of the rail with the end of a log.
Dig a small hole around the rail and pour some water into it to make it easier to swing.
And another non-trivial piece of advice that I haven’t tried myself, because... it just came to mind.
To weaken the adhesion of the rail to the ground, in addition to moistening the soil around the rail and rocking it with impacts, you can try vibration. Anyone who has worked with concrete knows what a vibrating screed is - a steel channel, in the middle of which an electric motor with an imbalance weight is attached.
If you firmly tighten (for example, with long pins from Auchan) any motor with an imbalance to the rail (be sure to make a protective cover for the imbalance so that you don’t accidentally hit it in the forehead with a weight), I believe that the most advantageous attachment point will be closer to the ground, and make the rail vibrate finely , while simultaneously pouring water into the ground and pulling the rail up with a lever, then the rail should give in. An imbalance weight may not be heavy at all, the main thing here is not the amplitude of the “trembling”, but the very presence of vibration - in order to make the wet soil adjacent to the rail mobile and pliable. After this, it will be easier to pull the rail off with a lever.
quote: Originally posted by Sobol': if there is a thrust bearing (which I personally doubt), then either dig to the end or cut it. Cutting a rail with a grinder is a gourmet activity, but I think it’s unlikely to work with an electrode.. It’s probably possible with a cutter.
quote: Originally written by cazak36: I see few people here know how much a half meter of rails weighs. No jack will help, it will just go into the ground
Rail marking (P – linear meter)
R-65, T1 – weight of 1 meter 64.88 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.811 tons. R-50, T1 – weight of 1 meter is 51.68 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.6475 tons. R-65, T1 - the weight of 1 meter is 64.88 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.811 tons. RP-65 – weight of 1 meter is 64.88 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.811 tons. RP-50 – weight of 1 meter is 64.88 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.811 tons. R-43 – weight of 1 meter is 44.65 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.558 tons. R-33 – the weight of 1 meter is 33.48 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.268 tons. R-24 – the weight of 1 meter is 24.9 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.199 tons. R-18 – the weight of 1 meter is 18.06 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.145 tons. R-11 – the weight of 1 meter is 11.2 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.09 tons. (China) R-65, T1 – weight of 1 meter is 64.88 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.811 tons. KR-140 – weight of 1 meter is 146.98 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 1.617 tons. KR-120 – weight of 1 meter is 114.65 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 1.261 tons. KR-100 – the weight of 1 meter is 84.53 kg. Weight of 1 piece is 0.93 tons. KR-80 – weight of 1 meter is 58.74 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.646 tons. KR-70 – the weight of 1 meter is 47 kg. The weight of 1 piece is 0.517 tons. E-62 – the weight of 1 meter is 62.05. Weight of 1 piece is 0.776.
One linear meter weighs on average 65 kg.
Let there be two meters in the ground, two above the ground, a total of 4 meters of rail.
4 x 65 = 260 kg – this is not weight for a jack.
quote: Originally written by cazak36: it’s falling through, two boards knocked together for 50 cents, they also go into the ground, but here is a rail, I personally don’t understand how to approach it with a jack
This is how I uprooted my stumps - I dug around and washed away the soil until it became a “swamp” with water, threw a piece of log nearby and used a crowbar, like a lever, to swing the stump, cut off the washed-out roots, and rocked it again until it gave in.
the rail has no roots - it should go easier.
quote: Originally posted by Bonk:
the earth is not a swamp, place one log on the ground near the rail, place the second log perpendicularly on it, and use it as a lever
This is how I uprooted my stumps - I dug around and washed away the soil until it became a “swamp” with water, threw a piece of log nearby and used a crowbar, like a lever, to swing the stump, cut off the washed-out roots, and rocked it again until it gave in.
the rail has no roots - it should go easier.
there are no roots, but I think they are not just driven into the ground, most likely they also poured concrete there, so if you pull them out like that, it’s almost impossible without equipment, call a welder, he will cut them off with a gas cutter, and I have almost no doubt that the rail will be scrapped with will more than pay for his fee.
quote: Originally posted by cazak36:
No jack will help, it will just go into the ground
quote: Originally posted by cazak36:
most likely they poured more concrete there,
quote: Originally posted by APTEMOB:
Welding the shoulder?
quote: Originally posted by APTEMOB:
Welding the shoulder?
quote: Originally posted by Nkibmshy:
Stop by the metal receiving station and tell them about the two rails, then just watch the beautiful work
As for the problem - it’s just that if you don’t know shit, then it’s dumb and cumbersome to pull the stepsons and in this case the rails out of the ground
quote: Originally posted by Bonk:
the rail has no roots - it should go easier.
quote: Originally posted by APTEMOB:
roughly who knows how driven the stepsons were?
quote: – Archimedes threatened to turn the earth over, a lever, a fulcrum.
quote: It’s no longer possible to simply solve problem two+two
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich:
Once, I was unable to remove a pipe from a well, even with a 5t jack
quote: Originally posted by pf:
But Zarathustra doesn’t allow you to dig a trench on one side and knock it down with your hand?
Concrete stepsons can be easily removed by two people using two crowbars and a couple of blocks or bricks, and it is advisable to dig a little.
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich:
And what does this worthy man usually use to dig to such a depth with a small width?
quote: Originally written by Tsepyatich: And what does this worthy man usually dig with to such a depth with a small width?
Ya idk. I remember a Taliban who was digging a hundred square meters under a pipe with a shovel. He stood sideways and the width of a bayonet with a depth of 1.7
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich:
And what does this worthy man usually use to dig to such a depth with a small width?
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich: So this is “he” – the Taliban. Do you recommend to a person
But does Zarathustra not allow a person to hire a Taliban?
quote: Originally written p-f: but Zarathustra doesn’t allow you to dig a trench on one side and knock it down with your hand?
quote: Originally posted by Spar:
Stick some kind of vibrator, or at least tap it with a small sledgehammer, or a larger hammer. My brother and I struggled for 8m and pulled out the pipes. And nothing went well. And with the tapping she climbed like a little darling.
quote: Originally posted by fishermen: Borrow a hi-jack or hang a small hoist on a tripod.
Oh, well, it won’t work.
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich:
Oh, well, it won’t work.
quote: Originally posted by HARON:
Have they already suggested blowing everything up?
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich:
So, this will make him bury himself
quote: Originally posted by Bonk:
vibration is a great force, see how quickly you can drive a reinforced concrete pile into the ground using vibration
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich: So, this will make him bury himself
An experienced demolitionist will make a couple of holes, lay down charges and reliably calculate the point of impact of the pillar with the stepson. Your doubts are due to inexperience, the long-term construction has been eliminated nearby - fart-fart, a little dust and the indestructible reinforced concrete is defeated.
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich: No, my doubts are based on reality. TS horseradish will start digging to put a charge under the butt of the stepson.
That's right, not a single creative person will dig up a pillar - it's uninteresting and lazy. But preparing pits for a big explosion is a different matter. Who is to blame if things don’t come to an explosion and the pillar collapses first? All that is needed is to provide a plan for excavation work for the foundation of centuries.
quote: Originally posted by DIZZI:
Rails can be cut normally with a grinder
quote: Originally posted by Tsepyatich: No, he won’t dig. He's not such a fool
Everyone is digging, you just need to motivate them. throw a map that it was under this pillar that the fugitive electrician buried three liters of royal chervonets.
quote: Originally posted by roykin:
Haven't pulled it out yet? If it freezes, you’ll have to tear it off, like that boat with the nurse.)
quote: Originally posted by headshot: Brake a passing tractor, it will pull it out with a bucket.
Did you read the first message? It says that the equipment cannot be adjusted
quote: Originally posted by Gegemon_17:
I thought he had taken everything out a long time ago. And he, it turns out, was more fussing about. He depicted a drill, a jack, and a grinder.
quote: Originally posted by N. Valerich:
Probably, after all, some kind of crossbar is installed, which the TS called a thrust bearing
Probably, after all, some kind of crossbar is installed, which the TS called a thrust bearing
quote: Originally posted by Duga:
What do you call a crossbar? A welded jumper between the rails?
I found a \\Rigel - it increases the lateral surface of the underground structure of reinforced concrete pillars and the footboards of metal supports. Crossbars increase the ability of the foundation to withstand horizontal loads acting on the support, preventing it from tipping over from the gravitational forces of the wires when constructing supports in soft soil
quote: Originally posted by DIZZI:
The rails can be cut normally with a grinder, there is no need to cut them completely, just cuts, then they break off along the cut. Already verified.
Try to saw off something, but they are a healthy hundredth or even more. You will need to weigh the sawdust, there is one.
quote: Originally posted by N. Valerich:
but they are a healthy hundredth or even more
We are repairing the fence. How to pull out cemented pillars without digging!
My fence also needs updating and repair. Initially, the poles were installed by workers from Central Asia without taking into account our local climatic conditions. Well, it’s clear that they don’t have winter and they don’t see it here. Open only in summer. Now they dance and rise higher every winter. Thanks to the translation below, I now know how I will extract them from the ground. Everything ingenious is simple. A banal lever and no shovels or big holes in the ground. The main thing is to find a fulcrum and you can turn the Earth upside down. Well, if, of course, it’s really necessary.
Further from the author in machine translation.
I wanted this post to maybe help save someone a little time if they ever need to replace a fence that has wood posts that are set in concrete and don't want to have to dig them out by hand.
My aging neighbor down the street asked me if I would like to replace about ten leg sections of her old cedar fence and update it in the same style her neighbor just installed. Of course I said yes.
Now, to tell the truth, I'm lazy, and work for it. I wanted to find a way to lift old posts that are embedded in the ground into the concrete without having to resort to digging them out of the ground with a shovel and thus breaking too much sweat in the process. I wanted to be able to reuse the holes for new posts, too, so pulling them up was out of the question since this could lengthen the holes.
After washing the Internet and finding ways to pull posts that would leave a huge hole that would go back and dig up again, or hokey “hold my beer” type of idea using tools I didn’t have such as a tractor or truck wheel rims, or chains, or explosives, I decided that nothing was "out there" in Beatland just enough to satisfy my needs. So, I came up with the following idea. I like it because you can pull the post out from one side so you don't need anyone to hold you a beer for you, and then after you've finished pulling the posts you can dismantle the unit and use the parts as new posts when rebuilding a new fence , and using the same holes. Don't dig! No nails. No screws. Can I get an amen?
Step 1: Gather some simple materials
For my/your post pullers, you will need
- Treated 2 4″ x 4″ x 10′ lumber posts
- 2 4″ x 4″ x 1′ processed lumber pieces
- Twenty feet or so reserve parachute cord, twine, rope, wire, whatever
- 1 two leg iron spike or rebar (found at home improvement centers. I used a 3/4″ diameter spike)
- Drill
- a 3/4″ bit (or whatever matches the diameter of your spike)
- Concrete cinder block or timber with a crowbar, or whatever you can find for support.
Step 2: Create Your One-Handed Post Puller
What you want to do is throw two long 4x4s together, sandwiching the two small pieces together as shown in the picture. tie as tight as possible, not a big problem. During use, ropes (paracord) are not used. The cord is simply there to guide the smaller pieces of timber between the longer ones, so that they act as wedges for laying.
Then you want to drill a hole large enough for your spike (in my case, 3/4″) through the end of one of the long 4x4s. Then do the same in the other direction. Measure if you need it, I'm not as I'm quite skilled with my eye/hand. You want the holes to line up so you can press the tenon as shown with little to no resistance.
You're done with the puller! Hard work, right? Or what? (In case you are a Northern brother or sister).
Step 3: Install the Puller on the Old Post
Now you need to drill a hole into the existing post that you want to pull. How high depends on your support material. In my case it was about 15 inches from the ground.
Insert the minus spike puller up to the old post, lining up the holes, and push the spike through the three 4 x 4s as shown.
Now you will need your fulcrum.
Step 4: Add Your Props
Place your fulcrum, in my case an old cinder block and step, as close to the post as possible without covering any of the concrete that the post is on. Just take the supports to the edge of the concrete as shown in the picture.
Step 5: Pull out the EP Post!
Walk to the far end of your puller post, and with one hand hold your drink of choice, use the other hand to press down on the handle lever. See how simple it is?
Step 6: Hard to Get to Medical
Difficult to reach posts are not suitable for your new puller position, either. You can press the tenon through the hole and use a puller from the side as shown in the picture. Worked great! Raised it straight and without damaging the other fence that I have to fight when I restore her fence.
Step 7: Thank you...
Thanks to this wonderful community. I have received a lot of help from instructables in my life and hope this helps someone else.
How to pull a concrete pillar out of the ground with your bare hands
In this review, the author uses his own example to show a simple and quick way to pull a concrete pillar out of the ground with your bare hands.
It should be immediately noted that this method is suitable for physically strong men. Or you need to involve several people in this matter.
In this case, the author shows how to pull pillars from a 40*80 mm profile pipe, concreted to a depth of 70 cm, out of the ground.
As for the soil itself, in this case about 30 cm is the fertile layer, and then there is clay.
If you need to pull poles out of the ground quickly and without the use of special equipment, you can use the method that the author suggests in this review.
Main stages of work
The first thing you will need to do is dig up the post by about one bayonet of a shovel. And then the ground will need to be watered.
Please note: the more you can soak the clay, the easier it will be to pull out the concrete pillar later.
When the ground is well saturated with water, you need to loosen the pillar in different directions. Then we slowly pull the pillar itself up.
This whole process takes the author approximately 10-15 minutes. For details on how to pull a concrete pillar out of the ground with your bare hands, watch this video.
How to make a chain from PVC pipe
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