Making a kitchen hood with your own hands: calculation and selection of the optimal option, diagram and installation

Every housewife knows that during cooking various odors appear in the kitchen; during the cooking process they most often do not cause discomfort, but odors can be absorbed into the furniture or simply remain in the room for several days. Aromas in the kitchen sometimes mix with each other, which is not pleasant for the owner and his family; you want to get rid of them as soon as possible. A kitchen hood can easily cope with this problem, which can rid the kitchen of the aromas of burnt meat, milk, garlic, stewed vegetables and even tobacco smoke (relevant for those who prefer to smoke indoors).

DIY kitchen hood

• 1 General information about kitchen hoods, how they work
• 2 Making a hood in the kitchen with your own hands: a hood from plasterboard 2.1 Making a hood in the kitchen with your own hands from plasterboard
• 2.2 Making a kitchen hood with your own hands from plywood
• 2.3 Video - DIY kitchen hood

Despite the fact that there are now a huge number of models of hoods on sale at a variety of prices, not all owners are ready to purchase this unit. Many people are stopped by the need to properly install a hood at home. Of course, for this purpose, it is best to call a repairman to your home, who will cope with this work in a matter of time, but his work can be expensive, and in fact, almost every person can install a hood independently and without the help of a specialist.

Another problem that many homeowners face is that the hood may not be the right size for a particular kitchen or stove, it may be too bulky and cause inconvenience when cooking. Many craftsmen have found a way out of this situation, they simply began to make a hood in the kitchen with their own hands, this is not only simple, but also allows you to save a lot, because a homemade hood will cost much less than buying a store-bought one, and with the right approach it will look no worse , or maybe better expensive.

There are a couple of ways to make a kitchen hood with your own hands, we’ll talk about them in more detail, first you need to understand how the device works and its types.

How a kitchen hood works

According to sanitary standards, in the kitchen the air exchange rate cannot be less than 10. For this purpose, the room has ventilation ducts with natural or forced movement of air masses. The efficiency of the first type is low, so a kitchen hood is installed above the stove.

The main purpose is as follows:

• purification and filtration of air masses;
• protection of all kitchen surfaces from the deposition of grease, condensation and soot;
• removal of odors and smoke generated during cooking;
• removal of moist used air from the room;
• the device prevents contaminated air masses from entering neighboring rooms.

The operating principle of a kitchen hood depends on its design. Varieties connected by pipeline to ventilation ducts simply remove contaminated air masses from the room through the ventilation system outside the house. They only have grease filters. Models that are not connected to the ventilation system are equipped with multi-stage filters. They purify the air masses circulating in the room.

Kitchen hood design diagram

Before you make a hood in the kitchen, it is worth understanding its structure.

It consists of the following parts and mechanisms:

• all structural elements are located inside the case;
• a fan is needed for air circulation;
• gearbox;
• control system;
• air ducts of round or rectangular cross-section;
• filtration system;
• connecting elements;
• swivel elbow;
• wall plate for fixing in the kitchen.

The following parts are used in the electrical circuit:

1. Exhaust fan with electric motor. This is the main part necessary for the movement of air flow through the filtration system. An electric motor is an asynchronous motor with several speeds. To change the rotation speed, different connections of the stator windings are used. Typically tangential or axial fans are installed.
2. Speed ​​switches in the form of sliders or buttons allow you to quickly change network parameters and apply voltage to the motor winding. Expensive models of hoods have backlit touch switches.
3. Any type must have grease filters installed. Coarse filtration devices trap grease, and fine filtration devices are needed to eliminate odors. Carbon filters help further disinfect the air.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic boxes

It is clear that, in addition to plastic systems, there are metal air ducts, but the popularity of metal ducts is significantly inferior to plastic. There are quite a lot of reasons why plastic boxes are chosen for ventilation installations, here are just a few of them:

• Great appearance. A light-colored plastic pipe, or one painted to match the decorative finish of the walls, looks much more attractive than a galvanized or painted metal box;
• The light weight of the plastic box allows you to fix the ventilation system in almost any suitable place. For example, in pockets of suspended ceilings, on walls and in niches of kitchen furniture;
• The price of a plastic PVC duct is significantly lower than that of a similar metal air duct. For example, the most popular box, with a cross-section of 220x90 mm, costs $4.5 per meter, metal will cost $6-7;
• Good corrosion resistance of a plastic pipe compared to a metal box.

The last point, as practice shows, is one of the decisive values ​​for ventilation systems in a bathroom or kitchen. The air flow of these rooms contains a large amount of chemically active substances and water vapor. As a result, the metal rusts, and pinpoint traces of corrosion appear on the joints and side surfaces. Ventilation ducts have to be painted or replaced with plastic air ducts.

Often, sellers of components and parts for arranging ventilation systems claim that plastic boxes create less resistance to air movement than metal ones. In reality, at air flow speeds of 3-5 m/s, the difference is almost unnoticeable, and the amount of dust and grease settling inside the boxes is approximately the same, regardless of the material.

For your information! The only, most important and most important disadvantage of plastic boxes is their high flammability.

PVC can withstand maximum long-term heating up to 120°C; at 200°C the plastic box begins to flow and lose shape; at 560°C the process of thermal decomposition begins with the release of very toxic gases. If we add to this a constant flow of air due to natural or forced ventilation, then very quickly smoke and decomposition products will fill all the rooms.

Therefore, metal boxes must be used in places where heaters and electric motors are installed. Otherwise, a flaming motor on a kitchen hood can lead to serious consequences.

Electrical installation features

Wiring for the installed equipment is planned and laid in advance.

Depending on the method of connecting the hood to the electrical network and the comprehensive design of the kitchen, the solution to the issue may be as follows:

1. The standard electric cord for range hoods is quite short. Therefore, when connecting a plug to a socket, the latter must be provided and installed in advance. Wiring or an extension cord with a socket can be carefully laid behind furniture or covered with a PVC box.
2. The connection via a machine (permanent) is made in a phase break.
3. Grounding is always connected first.

The second and third points are mandatory.

Varieties of design

I would like to dwell a little on what shape a kitchen box for a hood can be. This will help everyone decide what suits them best. After all, there is no universal recipe, since the layout of kitchens can be different, and everyone has their own concept of beauty.

For some, a vertical square box will be the ideal solution. For others, this will turn out to be absurd, because there is nothing more beautiful than a compact rectangular box under the ceiling. Before you assemble a plasterboard box, you need to understand what it should be like.

1. Plasterboard box for built-in hood. In this case, only the lower part of the hood is visible, since everything else is hidden behind the drywall. The design does not seem bulky.
2. The hood is completely visible, and the box starts from its top and goes to the ventilation window.

Everyone decides for themselves which option to choose.

Installation of forced ventilation with exhaust

Before you start installing a hood in the kitchen, you should read the manufacturer’s recommendations, they are in the instructions.

After this, view the equipment of the device and purchase:

• air duct;
• adapters;
• clamps;
• sealant;
• scotch;
• fasteners.

As for air ducts, they are made of heat-resistant plastic, metal, and corrugated foil. Corrugation is more convenient to install because it is flexible, but it is installed only for short lengths. This is due to the fact that the air flow encounters strong resistance, so the hood works longer.

Mounting the hood to the wall

When considering how to properly make a hood in the kitchen, the master needs to decide on the design features of the device. The simplest option is wall mounting.

The work is performed as follows:

1. Mark the fastening points between the stove and the hood. The optimal height is considered to be 700 mm. Measure the fastener zones - there will be 4 points in total.
2. Make holes using a drill. Screw in the screws and secure the device.

Almost all products have a similar design, so fixation will not cause problems. In the case when the natural exhaust hood in the kitchen is supplemented by a fan, the device is mounted in the outlet channel of the shaft and connected to the power supply. This is the simplest option for arranging an air exchange network.

Connecting the hood to the house ventilation duct

Installing a kitchen hood involves connecting an air duct to a ventilation duct.

A few rules will help you do everything yourself:

• The outlet fixed to the wall must be the same diameter as the outlet opening itself. Parts can be sealed with masking tape or sealant.
• To carry out the hood, plastic ready-made parts are used for ventilation in the bending areas. Using a corrugated air duct will eliminate the need for joining elements - this design bends in any direction.

Fixation with clamps and adapters. All parts are selected with the appropriate dimensions. It is forbidden to pinch the air ducts and leave free space in the fasteners. In the first case, the network itself is deformed; in the second, the risk of depressurization due to vibration increases.

Ensuring air flow

Supply ventilation can be natural or forced. Natural is the flow of air through a window, window, door. Forced – installation of blowers, valves or ventilators. The latter are available in wall and window versions and are structurally a lining with an external and internal part. Ventilators allow limited air flow and can be adjusted manually or automatically.

Install the devices in a wall or on a window. It is more convenient to install a window device; you do not have to drill into the wall. But you can do without installing complex models, for example, if there is an inlet valve in a sealed PVC window. Regular ventilation will help, both in the kitchen separately and in the entire apartment in general.

Which hood to install in the kitchen of a private house

Before you learn how to install a hood, you need to determine what types of devices there are and what filter system they are equipped with. In order for the cassettes to not only eliminate unpleasant odors, but also to collect oily particles, their design must include padding polyester or non-woven lining. Filters of this type are disposable. Reusable cassettes are made of aluminum or steel; special fat solvents are used for cleaning them.

There are also carbon filters that not only trap soot and fats, but also neutralize unpleasant odors. The disadvantage of such products is that they are disposable. According to the design features, hoods come in the following types:

• hanging;
• dome;
• built-in;
• island;
• retractable.

Flat

Hoods of this type attract buyers with their small size and simplicity of design. Since they do not have a chimney, they can be attached to the bottom of a wall cabinet. If the size of the device is not enough to cover the stove, you should pay attention to retractable models. Such products are suitable for rooms with small areas.

Flat hoods work on the principle of air recirculation. They absorb it using fans, clean it, and then return it to the room. As a rule, such products are equipped with carbon filters.

Built-in

This type of hood is also a recirculation type. Since the device can be installed inside a wall cabinet, it is unobtrusive and blends harmoniously into the interior. The body has a cubic shape with a retractable panel for greater air capture. First, the hood is installed in the wall, and then the cabinet is hung.

Dome

A device of this type is distinguished by a large volumetric shape resembling a hemisphere or trapezoid. The design allows you to install powerful fans and several filters. Therefore, experts believe that hoods of this type are the most effective. Cleaning can be recirculation or through a connection to a ventilation shaft. Such products are installed in rooms where there is no access to fresh air.

Why do you need ventilation in the kitchen?

The main function is to maintain normal air composition. It cannot be performed by other devices: humidifiers, air purifiers, etc. During operation, the air in the room undergoes changes:

• increasing the concentration of harmful substances emitted by decoration, furniture and any other objects;
• as a result of gas exchange in a person’s lungs, carbon dioxide accumulates in the room, and the percentage of oxygen decreases (the same thing happens when burners burn);
• heating devices also affect the quality of air;
• microscopic lint from textile and wool products, particles of the epithelium of pets constantly fly in the air, which is harmful to health;
• condensation formation.

These changes in the air do not mean that you should stop keeping pets, fabrics, etc. in the house. A negative effect is created only when the concentration of harmful substances is critically exceeded

Therefore, it is important to create an outflow of dirty air and an influx of clean air. This is the function of the air duct in the kitchen.

Need ventilation in a wooden house

In a wooden house that is built using the latest technologies, a ventilation system must be installed. This is due to the high tightness of the building. Exhausting dirty air through windows and vents is not a sufficient condition.

A natural ventilation system is attractive due to its low cost, but it is not able to quickly remove odors from the kitchen or moist air from the bathroom. For effective air exchange in the kitchen in a wooden house, you need to install a special device of appropriate power.

A supply and exhaust ventilation system is only sufficient to ensure fresh air enters the house and eliminate excess carbon dioxide and unpleasant odors. For high-quality air purification in the kitchen, this, like a natural system, is not enough.

You can use a high-quality ventilation system for natural kitchens, provided that it was initially included when designing the house and carried out by specialists.

Ventilation features

When installing a hood, you need to choose the right air duct. In practice, the following types of ventilation systems are used:

1. Corrugated sleeve made of aluminum. The main advantage of such a model is the ability to change the shape for acceptable parameters. The material bends well, which makes it possible to make a ventilation duct with turns in the right places. The disadvantage of the product is the creation of noise during the passage of air flows. In addition, grease, dust and dirt constantly settle on the surface of the corrugated sleeve. It needs periodic cleaning to remove dirt.
2. A round plastic air duct is assembled from several parts (adapters, angles and couplings). The connection of all parts is carried out using shaped parts. To prevent tears, the joints are coated with special glue, then additionally secured with self-tapping screws. The main advantage of such a system is considered to be silent operation.
3. Square plastic ventilation ducts are made of polyvinyl chloride. The product in question has the same characteristics as the previous type.

The plastic models of air ducts are supplied with additional parts that can be used to install the most complex engineering systems. Such products are characterized by high cost and complex design; their installation must be carried out by a professional.

Save

Materials for choosing boxes for the kitchen, advantages and disadvantages

Decorative boxes that hide the elements of the ventilation system not only perform a decorative function, but also reduce the noise of the hood electric motor

It is important what material the box is made of

It must be resistant to moisture, temperature changes, and not subject to chemical and mechanical stress during cooking.

A box made of any material must be regularly cleaned of dust, grease and dirt. The materials from which boxes are made have their pros and cons.

Therefore, when purchasing or making your own, you need to take this into account. The structures are made from the following materials: plastic, metal, wood and plasterboard.

Plastic construction

Plastic is polyvinyl chloride. Plastic boxes have a round and rectangular shape. The rectangular box is more organic and looks good with the kitchen cabinets.

Quick and easy to assemble. The material has great sound insulation, is durable and has a long service life, and is not subject to corrosion. Easy to cut and adjust to fit. It is very light in weight.

The disadvantages of plastic include the fact that the white color becomes yellow, matte, or gray over time. Forms dents under the weight of objects or from mechanical impact.

After some time, its surface becomes porous, where dust and dirt penetrate, which is difficult to remove. When assembling connections of plastic elements, you must follow the sequence.

To ensure tightness, so that dirty air does not fall on the surface of the box and penetrate into the room, silicone should be applied to the joints. There are many different connecting parts available for sale.

With their help, channels are connected in any direction and at any angle. The fasteners of the structure must be placed often along the entire length at a distance of at least a meter, and also strengthened at the junction of parts with each other.

Metal construction

A metal box or hood is a more reliable design. Stainless steel is the ideal starting material. Ordinary metal is coated with powder-based paint.

Stainless steel is easy to clean, does not absorb dirt, is strong and durable. Features a stylish modern design. There are no visible scratches on it. The material is not subject to corrosion.

The disadvantages include the high price and the presence of a monotonous range of colors. Complexity of assembly, the need to maintain accurate measurements. The design is heavy and requires reliable fastening.

A box made of this material does not protect against noise, and fingerprints remain on the surface, which are difficult to erase. It does not always fit into the interior of the furniture and looks bulky.

When assembling a metal frame, welding is used and cut with a grinder. If the metal sheet is thin, replace welding with metal glue. The sheets are overlapped.

Plasterboard structures

A cheap, lightweight material - drywall is easy to assemble in any configuration and shape. It is necessary to install metal profiles for installation.

Allows you to assemble a box to hide the air duct in a short time

When working with drywall, care must be taken as the material is quite fragile.

The material is convenient and easy to process, so the box can be made and assembled by yourself, without unnecessary expenses or the involvement of a craftsman. The finished box can be processed, puttied and finished with tiles, wallpaper, mosaics and other decorative materials.

With proper use and pre-treatment against impacts, it will last a long time.

Decorative wood box

A wooden box looks harmonious with a kitchen set made of the same material. Possessing the same properties, it will be part of the kitchen, complementing the design of a certain style, and also fulfilling a functional purpose.

Wood is an environmentally friendly, reliable, good material that requires little maintenance. The disadvantage is the heaviness of the finished structure.

Step-by-step execution of work

Hood location

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to carry out calculations. Each type of hood should be located at a different height. Above the electric stove, the device is located at a height of 65 to 75 cm. If the stove is gas, then the height of the hood must be increased to 75-85 cm. These standards must be taken into account in order to properly install the exhaust system.

The standards are aimed at providing comfortable conditions for cooking and preventing fire hazards.

Regardless of whether a dome hood or another is used, all work can be divided into three main stages:

• attaching the hood to the wall;
• connecting the device to the ventilation system;
• connecting to the electrical network.

Mounting the hood above the stove

Regardless of which hood was chosen, it should be mounted as securely as possible on the wall. To do this, you need to use dowels of a suitable length. Fastening must be carried out at the required height. If the hood is positioned too low, the appliance may be damaged by the hot air generated by the stove. If the distance is too large, then the fumes during cooking will disperse throughout the room, not reaching the hood.

Further work on installing the hood

Ventilation duct arrangement

After the hood is fixed to the wall, you can begin further work. If the hood involves exhausting air outside, then it is worth connecting it to the ventilation shaft. In this case, it is necessary to use special pipes. They can be made from various materials. Today, the most popular option is plastic products. They are very practical and have an attractive appearance. Such channels can be smooth or corrugated. It is worth giving preference to flat options, since they create less noise during operation and do not obstruct the passage of air.

All joints between plastic channels must be sealed with silicone sealant.

This will prevent exhaust air from entering the room. Attach the plastic channel to the wall using special clamps.

Electrical connection

It would be correct to make a separate outlet for connecting the kitchen hood. Its location should be foreseen at the stage of repair work. This will allow you to hide all the wires in the wall, and they will not spoil the appearance of the room. If the socket was not installed initially, it can be installed later. In this case, the wire can be hidden under the kitchen unit or simply covered using special plastic elements.

A separate power point allows you to use the hood no matter how many appliances are turned on in the kitchen at the same time

When performing all work, you should pay attention to the wires and auxiliary elements

Features of installing a built-in hood hood

Installation of a built-in hood has some differences that are important to know about. In order to correctly install such a device, you must first determine the height of its location. Unlike a dome hood, the built-in version is attached not to the wall, but to the kitchen furniture

In this way, the device is practically invisible and does not violate the integrity of the appearance of the kitchen unit. Thus, not only a flow-type hood can be attached, but also recirculation options

Unlike a dome hood, the built-in version is not attached to the wall, but to the kitchen furniture. In this way, the device is practically invisible and does not violate the integrity of the appearance of the kitchen unit. Thus, not only a flow-type hood can be attached, but also recirculation options.

Hood installation

The installation height of the hood is the main parameter that must be observed when installing it. The optimal distance from the hood to the hob is 75 centimeters. If the burners are gas, it is better to retreat another 10 centimeters. Above a stove equipped with electric burners, it is allowed to install a kitchen hood 10 centimeters lower.

If the hood is inclined, its lower part should be at least 35 centimeters from an electric stove, and at least 55 centimeters from a gas stove. It is also not recommended to increase these distances by more than 10 centimeters - this will reduce the efficiency of the hood.

Some manufacturers complete hoods with templates for marking mounting holes. But such a template is easy to make yourself from a piece of cardboard. The horizontality of the marking is controlled by the building level.

If it is impossible to install a wall-mounted hood close to the wall (for example, there is a gas pipe running there), special self-tapping screws are used. They are screwed into the wall like ordinary self-tapping screws, and a threaded part remains on the outside, onto which the hood is attached with bolts.

In the case of installing a built-in hood, the cabinet above the stove may require modification - moving the lower shelf. Usually the connections of modern furniture are detachable and there are no problems.

You just need to carefully mark and drill new holes in the side walls. The hole for the air duct is cut out with a jigsaw; its edges can be trimmed with a special furniture edging.

The island hood is attached to the ceiling using studs and collets. Cable or combined fastening is possible.

After installing the hood, you can accurately measure the dimensions of the air duct, cut the elements to the required length and secure them.

Now that the installation is complete, you can start using your new hood!

Mistakes when installing a kitchen hood

1

Some people, of course, leave a grille for natural air movement, but still manage to block it with the air duct itself.

2

Recommended dimensions for round air ducts are d=125mm. For rectangular ones - 204*60mm.

3

In most cases, this is prohibited by the rules. Specific points will be given below in the text.

You can, of course, lay a separate box along the facade straight to the roof. But is it worth it? Although in restaurants and cafes located on the ground floors of high-rise buildings, this solution is widely used.

By the way, the ban on venting air to the street through a wall does not apply to private houses, but only to high-rise buildings.

4

First of all, this will affect the noise. Although, of course, the turns themselves are not the greatest evil. And sometimes you can’t do without them.

It is the turns that follow one after another, without acceleration sections, that are dangerous.

5

Remember that a productivity of 200-300 m3/h is quite enough to effectively remove all odors, with minimal load on the ventilation of the house.

6

The installation height directly depends on what kind of stove you have - gas or induction hob.

7

Believe me, sometimes this structure has to be disassembled.

8

Why this is a mistake, and when it is still possible to do this, is discussed below.

9

As a result, connecting it haphazardly, through carriers and extension cords. Do not forget that in the end this is not a portable device, such as a fan, heater or mobile air conditioner.

This means that the wiring for it needs to be done stationary and wisely.

10

It must be embedded and installed in compliance with the appropriate angles and inclinations. Otherwise it will work every other time.

In general, installation of a hood can be divided into two main stages. The first is its connection to electricity. The second is the air duct structure and everything connected with it.

Let's look at each of them separately.

Materials and tools

For this project you will need the following materials:

1. 12V fan
2. Fan speed controller
3. Power connector
4. Key switch size 15×10 mm
5. 5mm LED
6. 580 ohm resistor
7. Wires, 22 AWG
8. Heat shrinkable tube
9. Cage nuts M3
10. Activated carbon filter
11. Double-sided adhesive tape
12. M3x12 screws
13. M5x8 screws
14. Rubber feet

Here is a list of necessary tools:

1. Soldering iron
2. 3D printer
3. Wire cutters
4. Wire stripping tool
5. Hot air gun

Hood manufacturing process

It can be divided into stages:

Scheme of the hood operation.

The first stage is the preparation of materials and equipment. If something from the above list is missing, you should visit a hardware store. Equipment can be rented. The second stage is applying markings. In order not to spoil the aesthetic appearance of the room, you should carefully take measurements. It will be necessary to arrange not only the hood. You should also place an air duct. It can be carefully disguised using drywall. The simplest marking option is obtained when the hole for ventilation is made from above the slab. When the hole is located elsewhere in the kitchen, you will need to place a box in which the air duct pipe will be laid. Advice! If you plan to finish the ceiling with plasterboard in your kitchen, you can partially hide the air duct under it.

The third stage is creating a frame for the air duct. This will require galvanized metal profiles. Using anchors, they are secured along the entire perimeter of the future air duct. It's good if the pipe runs in a straight line. In cases where this option is not possible, the profile should be fixed with bends in the required places. Markings for the air duct are applied on the ceiling. The first profile, which serves as a start, is laid down in several separate parts. They are attached using self-tapping screws. The fourth stage is the completion of work on arranging the plasterboard box. To complete the work, you will need to attach a second panel from the primary profile to the already completed hanging parts. You used it as a starting point for work. When the lower part is ready, transverse type strips are mounted on it. They should subsequently be covered with plasterboard. The fifth stage is the formation of the kitchen hood body. So, when all the rough work is done, you can begin arranging the hood itself. The lower part of the future appliance is fixed to the kitchen walls. It is also made from a profile. If your kitchen has a niche for the hood, this will make the task even easier. Otherwise, you will have to additionally attach the lower part to the main box from the sides. All parts of the hood are cut from a metal profile and connected to the lower part. To make the structure more rigid, you will need to strengthen the sides with jumpers. They are also made from a profile. Stage six - connecting the air duct to the ventilation system

To complete the procedure for finishing a kitchen hood, its body and the box in which the air duct is located are sheathed with plasterboard. Then putty is applied to the finished structure. With its help, fasteners and plasterboard seams are masked. After this, the hood can be painted. Some prefer other options for decorating this kitchen appliance.

Layout of sockets in the kitchen.

This type of design is perfect for both active and passive hoods. If you choose the first type, you will need to install an electric motor inside the housing. It will need to be connected to the network.

The second version of a homemade kitchen hood is made of plywood. This hood is used only for active type appliances.

Ventilation from outside

We decided to vent the ventilation through the wall. In fact, experts recommend using a roof for such structures, but ours was in very poor condition and making additional holes in it would have been a bad idea.

We decided to make holes directly in the brick wall. This is a dangerous undertaking, since the wall that was suitable for the hood was load-bearing. The safest place was chosen for her, bypassing the wall under the beam. To ensure reliability, the holes needed to be strengthened. This kind of event is carried out by professionals using special equipment, but we did without it.

Purpose of kitchen ventilation

During the cooking process, a whole bunch of dangerous chemicals are released into the air.

Among them are:

Carbon monoxide (CO), better known as carbon monoxide. An extremely toxic substance, even in small concentrations leading to severe poisoning of the entire body. And when the concentration of CO in a person’s blood reaches 5 ml per liter, almost instantaneous death occurs. The main danger of carbon monoxide is that it has neither color nor odor. Therefore, its dangerous concentration can be detected only by a sharply deteriorated state of health - a severe headache accompanied by vomiting. CO is released during any combustion, including when frying food on a stove fire.

• Natural gas (propane, butane, methane) is another dangerous chemical component present in the kitchen. It is commonly used as an energy carrier for gas cooktops. But in high concentrations it can not only cause human poisoning, but also cause fire and explosion. Every year, hundreds of people around the world become victims of gas leaks that could easily have been avoided with an effective ventilation system.
• Carcinogens are volatile substances released into the air when foods are fried or fats are burned in a frying pan. This is the same child that stands in the kitchen while preparing food, and then settles on the walls and ceilings of the room with a greasy coating. Carcinogenic substances, although they cannot lead to immediate death of a person, like CO or propane, are capable of accumulating in the human body. When these substances enter the liver, kidneys, and lungs, they ultimately cause severe pathologies, including cancer.
• Water vapor is released when cooking soups or boiling a kettle. By itself, it is absolutely harmless to humans. But in high concentrations it condenses on the walls and ceilings of interior spaces, causing the appearance of fungus and mold. The fungus significantly reduces the service life of finishing materials, and can also affect the load-bearing elements of the building structure. Microscopic spores released by mold into the air cause severe allergic diseases - dermatitis, asthma, chronic bronchitis.

We make a tabletop hood. Brutal DIY with sewer components

Today we will make our own tabletop hood with lighting and attachment to the table. Can be used for soldering (made for this purpose), when working with epoxy resin, solvents, etc. There can be many applications. My first post in the DIY community Before this, everything was somehow reviews of products or their modifications. First, I will scare you a little. Many people understand that a hood is needed if you have to breathe harmful fumes during work. But not everyone realizes the extent of the real problem. Let's fix this a little and give some examples.

Theory

Lead vapor:
1. Lead is dangerous if ingested in any concentration. 2. Enters the brain, liver, kidneys and bones. Accumulates in teeth and bones. 3. Can cause irreversible damage over time - peripheral neuropathy, progressive renal dysfunction, anemia. Yes, what is written above applies more to the ingestion of lead in solid form. However, lead vapor from soldering is also dangerous. Please note the last link. Proof: www.who.int/ru/news-room/fact-sheets/detail/lead-poisoning-and-health tinyurl.com/577r8upe znaytovar.ru/gost/2/SP_95272_Sanitarnye_pravila_or.html

Fluxes

Rosin

For many years I believed that this naturally occurring flux was relatively safe. Although once upon a time my colleagues told me that it was better to switch to other fluxes. He waved it off. As a result, I developed chronic bronchitis. Moreover, these are not the worst consequences of long-term work with rosin. I'm not saying that it is more dangerous than modern fluxes. Quite the contrary. But they do not create such a column of smog as from rosin. What doctors tell us is that rosin is quite safe in itself when it enters the body, the problem is that with a long stay in a room where there is a suspension of small particles of rosin, allergic reactions of the body develop over time, which leads first to bronchitis, then to asthma. The second problem is the decomposition products of rosin during soldering. These are relatively safe organic acids, but they cause irritation of the mucous membranes, which is superimposed on the effect of an allergic reaction from a suspension of rosin particles.

Amtech NC-559-ASM

Quite a popular flux. Phenol was found in the studied samples. Hazard class 2. Causes damage to the central nervous system, irritates mucous membranes. The question arises: is it part of the Chinese replica NC-559-ASM (which is widely sold in stores) or the original?

Proof cxem.net/master/105.php There is also about studying the harmfulness of other fluxes

Working with epoxy resin

When working with epoxy resin, the greatest danger is the hardener itself. Amine hardeners are common in everyday life. With long-term poisoning, damage to the heart muscle, liver, digestive system, and bronchopulmonary system is possible. On the skin side - dermatitis. Proof xumuk.ru/vvp/2/833.html

The general message is that often during some household work it is necessary to effectively remove harmful fumes from the work area. What people usually do:

1. Nothing. IDDQD mode on. Nothing to comment 2. Ventilate. Efficiency is low. An additional disadvantage is that they spread it throughout the room/apartment. 3. They use table fans with a filter, something like this https://aliexpress.com/item/item/4001231802343.html More or less effective against a suspension of small particles (when soldering with the same rosin). For the rest it is ineffective. I would not pay much attention to the presence of carbon particles in the filter in the description (carbon does not work well in this design). It is better to pay attention to the pore size or, at least, if there is no information about this, to the thickness of the filter. I once had one like this. This will serve as a very initial measure of protection.

How to do it right: 1. Install a tabletop hood with a corrugated pipe outlet to the street. Solves the problem of removing harmful fumes from the soldering area. But removing them from the workplace does not completely solve the problem. Nevertheless, this will protect you by an order of magnitude compared to 'ventilation'. 2. If you have enough money, buy an industrial system for removing fumes from the soldering area. Something like this - npo-diod.com/blog/dyimoulovitel-dlya-pajki.html There is a HEPA + a really working carbon filter. This is without venting smoke to the street. Although there is also a retraction. The comments are the same as in paragraph 1 3. General ventilation system above the workplace. It completely removes fumes above the work area, but leaves the possibility that you will inhale something directly above the soldering area. I plan to make this review in two parts. In the first I’ll tell you about a tabletop hood, in the second I’ll tell you how to make a removable hood over your workplace with height adjustment from the cheapest kitchen hood. Those. when necessary, they installed it, adjusted the height, worked on it, and put it away. 4. General + local desktop. Our choice.

Practical part. Selection of components

I decided to make a tabletop hood from sewerage components. With these components, I am on your side, so if I named something incorrectly, write in the comments.
My choice was this: I walked around the market and imagined a 3D model of what I needed in my head. Later I looked at the names at home. In addition, I suddenly discovered deposits of old Soviet radio elements. I thought I didn’t have anything like this anymore. I use them in the control unit. In general, the concept of today’s review is this: we do everything as cheaply as possible, simply and easily repeatable. Mechanical part - we buy everything from any household. store. Control unit - we use the most common parts. No microcontrollers, indicators or PWM control

So, as Phileas Fogg said, “Today, Passepartout, we will take the following with us.”

Spiral reinforced sanitary corrugation 32mm. The average cost is $0.95 per meter. I needed 5 meters to the window.

Worm clamp 25-42mm. Plug 32mm. It cost something like 1.5 dollars for everything.

Sewer pipe with socket 32×1.8mm polypropylene. 2 pcs. 0.9$ per piece.

The extension has a rubber seal. We will install plugs there.

Reduction 72/50. 0.4$ per piece.

Sewer cuff 70-40. 0.3$ per piece.

The PVC pipe is rigid. Outer diameter 63mm, inner diameter 56mm. I don’t know how much it costs, they gave me a scrap at the market. I suspect this piece is very cheap. I cut myself 17.5 cm from that piece at home.

Soviet engine from an industrial hair dryer. My grandfather gave it to me at the market for $2. We will install it in a pipe. The active resistance of the winding is 6 Ohms, the diameter of the impeller is 48 mm. In fact, purchasing it is not a problem. You can buy it cheaply at a flea market by searching for 'hair dryer motor', 'hair dryer motor'. It costs about 2 dollars. You can buy a kit in spare parts for hair dryers. It's called a 'motor with impeller for a hair dryer'. The main thing is that the engine is low-voltage - up to 20V and fits into the pipe according to the diameter of the impeller. Examples: zapcenter.com.ua/p947586959-ten-sbore-dlya.html intercom-nn.ru/catalog/zapchasti_dlya_fenov_shchiptsov_dlya_volos/BA30207001350/ intercom-nn.ru/catalog/zapchasti_dlya_fenov_shchiptsov_dlya_volos/BA301 37001390/ zips.re/index.php?route =product/product&product_id=18592 You can buy an Ali engine and a separate impeller intercom-nn.ru/catalog/zapchasti_dlya_fenov_shchiptsov_dlya_volos/KR-VEN-13mm/ You can simply buy a working hair dryer at a flea market.

I disassembled the engine, cleaned and lubricated it. There are no ball bearings. Two brass bushings. I soldered the connector and a strip of rubber - it will be needed to mount the motor in the pipe.

The cheapest flashlight for 1 dollar. I bought it at the market. I will change the LEDs to Osram. Like in this review

Kradex z3w case 110x150x70. Cost 3 dollars.

Lamp mtl-07 e27. Cost 14 dollars. This is the most expensive part in the hood. I write exactly the model of the lamp, because... Available with plastic sides and other fastenings. This one has a metal frame and a fastening to the table reinforced with a metal bracket. You can make the lamp run tight for heavy loads. And our loads will be heavy. In the second photo I removed the mount to the table and the lampshade.

Assembly

We cut off a part from the first pipe with a socket, so that 20 centimeters remain. We insert the wide part into the 72/50 reduction and secure it with rubber glue.
Turn it over and fill the space between the two pipes with epoxy resin. After hardening it will look like this:

This will be an adapter from a corrugated pipe to a PVC pipe. We paint the reduction with oil-based matte black paint. As it turns out, solvents in oil paint slightly corrode the reduction material. Because of this, it takes a very long time to dry. It dried out for two weeks. But I was in no hurry. But then the adhesion of the paint to the reduction material was excellent. The paint adhered tightly.

Inside:

We take the sewer cuff and cut out the rubber inside with scissors, leaving the ribs themselves at 2mm. It should look like this:

We insert it into the reduction. We will put this design on a PVC pipe.

We stretch one end of the corrugated pipe onto the opposite part. Everything fits very tightly.

Similarly, we cut off a part from the second pipe with a socket and stretch the other end of the corrugated pipe. Here I already installed the plug and worm clamps. Why do we need plugs at all? Over time, flux vapors will be deposited in the corrugated pipe and an odor will appear. And since we store this at home, after soldering we can simply install the plugs and put the corrugated pipe somewhere until next time. Clamps are needed to hook onto some part of a plastic window or window sill.

The first part of our design is ready.

Now we prepare the PVC pipe. We take the cable out of the pipe and make a recess to fix the flashlight. Use coarse sandpaper to roughen the surface of the recess, because I glued the lantern with epoxy, but its adhesion to PVC is average. I also added more plasticizer to the epoxy, so it holds more reliably.

We screw the lamp mount to the pipe body (additionally fix it with epoxy). Solder a 2.5mm connector onto the cable

Glue the flashlight onto epoxy. We install the motor inside the PVC pipe. Fastening - along one axis with two screws in the original mounts. Along the other axis, install two screws on the nuts to secure the engine housing. All connections are screwed with glue to prevent them from becoming loose due to vibration. I'll show you a little later. We paint the PVC pipe with the same oil paint. And it also takes a long time to dry. I also unscrewed the back cover of the flashlight and attached a thin power connector through a spacer. I brought wires from the internal connectors to it. Visible in the photo.

Motor mount. The screw fastenings to the body are visible along one axis. On the other hand, fixing the body itself.

Distance from impeller to pipe.

We install our structure on the frame.

By the way, a few words about the bed. It is completely metal. All screw fastenings can be tightened tightly and this will give the necessary rigidity. But we need it - a piece of corrugated pipe is heavy and springy. Even though I put some of the corrugation over the door, the remaining part still has a lot of weight. In addition, the original frame uses plastic washers; I replaced them with textolite ones. This gave it more rigidity. The photo also shows the motor mount from a different angle.

The middle part of the bed. The second wire for powering the flashlight LEDs is visible. I secured it on the outside.

Near the base for attaching to the table.

Additional photos

Flashlight power supply.

The flashlight's power is connected.

Table fastening system. The pin fits into a groove on the main mount. On the underside of the table, a plastic wing with a nut presses the corner. It seems to hold, but this corner doesn’t inspire confidence in me. I'll make it from aluminum. You can also see that rubber is glued to the corner and the main mount. It wasn't on the corner; I cut it out of a bicycle tire. Mostly it had thick porous rubber, which I also replaced with bicycle tires.

Rubber is closer.

Pin on the frame. It is inserted into the main mount. I put a chop in there to wedge it and it rotated in the mount tighter.

The plastic wing was eventually replaced with a wide metal nut and a metal wing.

Hood power plug.

So, the second part is ready.

The reduction fits onto the pipe gently and does not scratch the paint.

We assemble the control unit. The scheme is very simple. I installed transistors and diodes that were on hand. I couldn't find any information on the motor. But I figured that it was 10 watts. If a 15V AC is applied to the motor, the RMS current is 0.74A. Actually, I did it approximately according to these parameters. The motor is brutal. Both in terms of noise and flow

Everything was assembled on a breadboard. Adjustment of alternating voltage on the motor from 15.1V until the motor stops. At 15.1V RMS current is 0.75A. Transformer from a Chinese air conditioner. There is a point here - in terms of overall power, it is 6 watts. Therefore, in my case, it worked with saturation and got very hot. But taking into account active cooling, the temperature did not rise until the thermal protection in the transformer was activated. For some reason I didn’t immediately think about the trance and put it on the breadboard. Therefore, photos and measurements will continue with him. But now I’ve already removed it and installed a small 15-watt torus. In principle, I won’t change anything else in the hood, everything else is fine.

Regarding cooling - you remember, we do everything cheaply and on the principle of using unnecessary components. I found a Titan computer fan. It's 12V 0.12A. Real consumption 95mA. The ball bearing fan was removed from an ancient computer. At the same time, it still works quietly and without problems. They did well. I didn't bother with the fan's power supply. I made a transformerless one from the network.

It turned out compact. Slightly larger than a matchbox.

I drilled additional holes in the bottom of the case for better cooling.

We install everything into the case.

Front view. I also installed a Soviet LED. Why throw it away?

Back view.

Do you recognize the 5pin DIN socket (SG-5)? There was also a new pair in the junk. I have no idea where it came from. Let it also go into action, the currents are small

Assembled and at work. When the hood is not needed, I remove the corrugation and fold the frame. It takes up little space in the corner of the table.

Video requested by commentators

Test with candles. I went and bought it specifically for the video.

Smoke test. I set fire to the cotton wool and stank up the whole room. Unfortunately, there wasn’t much smoke from the cotton wool, but you can see sparks flying vigorously into the hood. Suction power test. Holds a candle box. And then I connected a small hair dryer to the pipe. This is about the comments “it won’t blow.” Moreover, I have a more powerful hair dryer. I gave a link to spare parts for it in the review.

Take care of yourself, organize your workplace correctly and do not “ventilate”

Air removal system parameters

To determine the most important dimensions of pipes and air intakes, you will need to perform a small calculation in the following order:

• We determine the amount of air flowing through the kitchen ventilation per unit of time;
• Knowing the cubic capacity of the kitchen air space and the recommended air speed values, we calculate the cross-sectional area and the recommended diameter of the air duct.

This is enough to build simple ventilation in the kitchen. As a rule, a kitchen ventilation system is assembled from two independent subsystems - natural and supply and exhaust. Both schemes are calculated based on the maximum air exchange rate in the isolated kitchen space. For a private home, according to SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10, the air in the kitchen atmosphere should change from 3.5 to 5 times per hour, depending on the type of stoves and ovens used.

If the kitchen is planned in the form of one large studio or pavilion, or a semi-open veranda, the gas exchange rate can be reduced to 2.5-3 times.

Calculation of hood performance

According to established standards, the power of the hood should allow the air in the kitchen to be renewed at least 12 times in 1 hour. The device passport indicates the productivity in cubic meters per hour.

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All that remains is to calculate the volume of the kitchen. For example, if you multiply 3 meters of width by 4.5 meters of length and 2.9 meters of ceiling height, we get 39 cubic meters. multiplying by 12, we get the required minimum exhaust capacity - 470 cubic meters per hour.

It is usually advised to purchase a hood whose performance is 30% higher than calculated.

How do kitchen hoods differ from air conditioning systems?

There is a significant difference between kitchen hoods and air conditioners. As you know, air conditioning systems absorb air from a room and return it cold or warm. Such air is very dry and harmful to health, since various odors, microbes and carbon dioxide, which is formed when exhaling, are not removed from the apartment.

There is a significant difference between kitchen hoods and air conditioners.

And the illusion of fresh air appears due to the fact that its density increases as it cools. While the kitchen hood removes air containing harmful substances and bacteria, thereby maintaining a healthy and fresh atmosphere in the apartment.

And the illusion of fresh air appears due to the fact that its density increases as it cools.

Note! If an air conditioner is installed in the kitchen, then there must be a ventilation system to maintain natural air exchange

Cleaning and care

Due to the rapid contamination of the mechanism, the equipment must be cleaned of fumes once every 2 months, otherwise a fire may occur. This process involves cleaning the kitchen hood filter and treating the external surface of the equipment with cleaning agents or soap solutions.

Grease filters are changed once every 3 months. Carbon elements are disposable, so they are completely replaced once every 4 months.

Despite the fact that the hood does not have a complex device, sometimes problems arise with its performance. In these cases, it will be necessary to make minor repairs to kitchen appliances.

Homemade plasterboard hood

Tools and materials

The easiest way to make a hood is to build a corrugated pipe with an electric fan into a kitchen cabinet located directly above the stove or hob. But such a hood cannot be called beautiful - which means we will take a different, more complex, but more productive path!

Frame elements

To make a passive dome hood we will need:

• Moisture-resistant drywall - from this we will make a box to house the air duct and the dome of our hood itself.
• Galvanized metal profiles for the frame of the box and dome.
• Perforated metal corner for decorating the corners of our hood.
• Corrugated pipe - air duct.
• Fastening elements.
• Insulating material for wrapping corrugated pipes.
• Putty and paint for finishing the dome.

Corner overlay

The set of tools with which we will make our hood will be familiar to anyone who has ever worked with drywall:

• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.
• Metal scissors for cutting profiles.
• Tape measure and level (preferably laser).
• Spatulas and brushes.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

Manufacturing

We begin work on the manufacture of the hood by marking the room. We will need to place on the wall not only the hood itself, but also the air duct, which we will hide in a plasterboard box to ensure the aesthetic appearance of our kitchen.

The easiest way to mark is if the ventilation hole in the kitchen is located above the stove itself. If the hole is to the side, you need to mark on the wall the position of the box for laying the air duct.

Hood placement diagram

When we have decided on the placement of the air duct, we proceed to making a frame for it:

• We attach a starting profile made of galvanized metal to the wall at the level marking the lower surface of the air duct box. To fasten the profile we use anchors with a 6 mm plastic sleeve.
• We also attach the starting profile to the ceiling according to the markings we applied. If we plan to make the air duct box curved, we cut and bend the profile before fastening it.
• From the starting profile, we lower several vertical fragments of the main profile down, attaching them to the starting profile using self-tapping screws.

Drywall box

We complete the formation of the frame for the box by installing another panel of the starting profile on the resulting hangers. We install transverse strips on the lower part of the resulting profile, which will then be covered with plasterboard.

You can study in more detail the technique of working with drywall and the profile for it by watching video instructions on the Internet.

Making the hood body

The box is ready - it’s time to move on to making the hood itself:

• From the starting profile we make the lower frame of our hood, securing it to the kitchen walls. The easiest way to attach the frame is if we install the kitchen hood in a niche - otherwise the side parts of the frame will need to be additionally attached to the box.
• We cut out the frame elements of our future structure from the main profile, and use them to connect the box with the lower frame, as shown in the photo.

Hood frame

To add rigidity to the structure, we reinforce the side surfaces of the hood with transverse bridges from the profile.

The frame is ready. Now all that remains is to attach the air duct from the corrugated pipe to the ventilation hole - and you can cover the dome with plasterboard.

To prevent the air duct from making noise during operation, we wrap it with batting or other soundproofing material.

Hood finishing

We finish the hood as follows:

• We cover the air duct box and the hood body with plasterboard.
• We protect the corners with a metal perforated corner.
• We putty the resulting plasterboard structure, masking the joints of the plasterboard sheets and the locations of the fasteners.
• We paint the hood in the color of our choice or finish it in another way. Our homemade kitchen hood is ready.

Exhaust after putty

The advantage of this technology is that this instruction is suitable not only for the manufacture of a passive hood, but also for the manufacture of an active type hood. In this case, it is enough to install an electric motor inside the housing at the entrance to the air duct and connect it to the network.

Should you install the hood yourself or call a professional?

If you have the time and desire to install the hood yourself, then most likely you can do it. There is nothing complicated about this and all the necessary information will be listed below. For those who find it easier to perceive information visually, we can also recommend finding a video of the hood installation on the Internet.

However, you won’t be able to do it not only without spending your time, but also without some tools. And, if you don’t have them yet and there’s nowhere to borrow them, these are additional costs:

• Hammer or drill. If the wall to which you need to attach the hood and air ducts is wooden or made of plasterboard, an inexpensive drill is sufficient. If the wall is brick or concrete, you need a hammer drill. Because even a drill with an impact mechanism may not cope.
• A hacksaw for metal - if you plan to use an air duct made of plastic pipes.
• Jigsaw - if the hood will be built into a part of the kitchen cabinet installed above the stove.
• A set of screwdrivers, or one universal one with replaceable bits.
• Every little thing that can be replaced with improvised means: ruler, tape measure, level, pencil, paper tape.

Standards and requirements for kitchen exhaust systems

The air duct of the kitchen hood ventilation system has a square or round cross-section with a width or diameter of 130 mm. If the exhaust equipment is installed away from the ventilation shaft, the air duct in the room is mounted using a corrugated pipe, which can be steel, aluminum or plastic. The most common choice is aluminum.

Aluminum corrugation has an aesthetic appearance. It is cheaper than the steel version and much stronger than its plastic counterpart.

Recommendations for choosing a hood:

Depending on the length of the ventilation duct, the required fan power is determined. An axial device mounted on hoods of a low price category is effective only when connected to a short ventilation duct through the wall. If the channel is long and has several turns, the power of such a fan will not be enough to remove polluted air outside. The type of exhaust unit - flow-through or recirculation - is selected depending on the distance from the stove to the ventilation duct (or its presence)

However, even if the ventilation duct is far away or absent, a flow-through type can be installed. The required power of the unit is calculated taking into account the cross-section of the corrugated pipe connecting the hood to the ventilation. Pay attention to the noise that the device will produce. The noise level of the exhaust system should not exceed 58 dB

The noise level of such equipment, which does not disturb comfort, is 44-46 dB.

The color, design and shape of the equipment, as well as the type of control, are chosen according to personal preferences.

If you do not take into account the rules for choosing the power of the unit, the device will consume a lot of resources, producing low efficiency. The power of the exhaust device is measured in m³/h. Many are sure that the more power the hood has, the better, but this opinion is wrong.

The purpose of the unit is to remove unnecessary odors and impurities from the air, and not to ventilate the room. Since the capacity of a pipe with a diameter of 130×130 mm is 400 m³/h, a hood with a higher power will be useless.

The height of the hood above the stove depends on the type of hob. SNiP standards for hoods: above gas stoves - 750-850 mm, above electric stoves - 650-750 mm, above combined stoves (where there are gas and electric burners) - 700-800 mm. The inclined hood is mounted at a distance of 550-650 mm from the working surface of the gas stove, 350-450 mm from the countertop with an electric stove and 400-500 mm from the combined hob.

To install a kitchen hood through a wall, you will need a device with certain characteristics. A hood that is too powerful makes a lot of noise, leaving some of the combustion products inside the room

When using any hood, the exhaust shaft must be anti-corrosion painted every three years.

Requirements for a kitchen hood in a private house

When choosing a hood for the kitchen, you need to pay attention to the air pressure that the blower creates. The higher it is, the greater the performance of the product. A good hood has several fans that pump air at different rotation speeds.

The performance of the hood is determined by the volume of air that the device can remove from the room. Some devices are capable of outputting 180-700 m³/h. Please note that the higher the performance, the louder the fan will make noise.

To determine how much exhaust hood power is needed for the kitchen, you should determine the volume of the room and multiply it by 10. According to sanitary standards, complete replacement of air in the room should be done 10-12 times per hour, so the volume of the room is multiplied by 12 (air exchange rate). The result is multiplied by 1.3 (safety factor). It is necessary to consider how the calculation is made using the example of a kitchen with an area of ​​6 m² and a height of 2.5 m: ((6*2.5)*12)*1.3=234 m³/h. To effectively ventilate a room, you need a hood with a capacity of 230-240 m³/h.

The dimensions of the device must correspond to the dimensions of the gas stove or exceed them by 10-20 cm. Failure to comply with these conditions will lead to fumes and combustion products rising past the hood and hanging furniture will begin to deteriorate. Treated aluminum has proven itself to be the best material.

You can also make a hood in a private house with your own hands. Without fans, the device must be connected to a vertical natural ventilation duct. However, this method does not remove all odors in the room well.

How to ensure air flow into the apartment

The supply of fresh outdoor air to the apartment for kitchen ventilation can be organized in two ways:

• window supply units;
• wall supply devices.

The installation of the window valve will have to be entrusted to specialists. And installation of a wall supply valve can be done by any home craftsman.

Window ventilation valve

These are simple and inexpensive devices that are now an essential element of kitchen ventilation systems in modern homes. The valve ensures normal air flow, blocking street noise.

Supply valves are installed on the window sash or frame. A window in the kitchen of an apartment, equipped with a ventilation supply valve. will never fog up. The neat and small valve is almost invisible, does not allow dust to pass through and does not cause air cooling.

You can not only make ventilation in the kitchen, but also equip it with such technical “bells and whistles” as hydroregulation of the inflow. There are supply valves with this function on sale. They open and begin airing precisely when soup is being cooked or pies are being baked in the kitchen, that is, the air humidity is increased. The sensor reacts to the humidity level and changes the flow area.

An additional acoustic visor can be purchased for the valve, which absorbs street noise.

A wide range of supply valves allows you to choose one suitable for any window profile: white, black, oak or teak.

But in order for the supply valve to perform its function efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the outflow of air from the kitchen.

Wall supply ventilation valve

supply valve device

Wall supply valves are also called “Finnish vents”. This is a small device that is not difficult to install, but without it, proper ventilation in the kitchen is impossible. The wall valve allows air into the room, trapping insects, dust and drafts.

The advantage of wall valves is that they are easy to install. There is no need to call a specialist and spoil the plastic window profile.

Other advantages of wall valves:

• does not use electricity;
• absorbs noise;
• has a small size and nice design;
• easy and quick to install.

There are wall valves with air filtration and automatic air supply based on hydroregulation. The intensity of the air supply can be adjusted manually by closing or opening the curtain.

Once every 6 – 12 months it is necessary to clean the filters by rinsing them with warm water.

Installation of a wall supply valve

Before installing a ventilation valve in an apartment, you need to choose a suitable place in the kitchen. It is better that the valve is not too conspicuous. Many people choose a place near heating radiators. The air coming from the valve will be preheated. The main criterion for choosing a location is the presence of access to the street for access to fresh air:

• A hole is made in the wall slightly larger in diameter than the valve pipe. A small margin is necessary for the correct placement of the pipe;
• The pipe is inserted into the ventilation hole in the kitchen. The cracks between it and the wall become foamy;
• The excess piece of pipe is cut off (usually it is sold in a standard length of 1 m). The outside of the pipe should be flush with the surface of the wall, and inside it should protrude no more than 1 cm;
• In pre-marked places, holes are made for fastening the housing;
• Filters are inserted (if they are provided for in the design), and an external grille is installed;
• A rain deflector is installed on the street side to prevent moisture from entering. If you drill a hole with a slope towards the street, a rain deflector is not needed.

Proper organization of passive supply ventilation in the kitchen is possible if air outflow is ensured.

Easy way to calculate

In theory, the dimensions of the supply ventilation window in a kitchen in a private house for calculations are taken to be 70% smaller than the cross-section of the exhaust pipe. In practical work, adjustable gate valves are installed for air flow, with the ability to change the flow area from 70% of the calculated value to 150%. In this way, you can effectively and accurately regulate ventilation performance and the level of gas exchange in the kitchen, without using noisy electric exhaust systems.

In a situation where the room is divided into several sectors or levels, the ventilation system in a private house in the kitchen is calculated based on building regulations No. 60.13330.2012, 62.13330.2012, 7.13130.2011. But there is one problem. The longer the air duct pipes, the more difficult it is to take into account the influence of turns, elbows, splitters, valves, filters on the resistance of the air ducts and the loss of flow energy.

Therefore, the design of a kitchen ventilation system for two- to three-story private houses is traditionally calculated in several stages. Initially, calculations are performed using air flows under ideal conditions, without taking into account friction. In the second pass, the air speed values ​​​​are checked, taking into account losses in elbows and turns, joints and branching of pipes. Speed ​​reduction coefficients have long been calculated and tested experimentally; their values ​​can be taken from reference tables in SNiPs.

The work is not difficult, but requires accuracy. If you don’t want to bother with calculations, you can use pipes that are obviously larger than 10-15% of the cross-section accepted for a standard kitchen. A small reserve of throughput will allow you to reduce the flow speed to 0.8-1.0 m/s, which will make the operation of the ventilation system less noisy, but more cumbersome.

You cannot arbitrarily choose the cross-section of pipes used in the kitchen ventilation layout; there are limitations here. In pipes of small diameter, usually 90-110 mm, at a speed of more than 2 m/s, the air flow begins to hum at joints and turns, especially in windy or frosty weather. For the kitchen, this limitation is especially relevant, since hot air is removed from the room. As it moves through metal air ducts, the flow quickly cools and loses its energy of movement before it rises to the roof and is thrown out through the vent pipe.

Making air ducts with a large cross-section, especially if one central exhaust pipe is used, is also dangerous. The slow and at the same time massive air flow after turning off the hood can easily tip over and return to the ventilation system of a private house. Even if there is a check valve in the kitchen, kitchen fumes and odors easily flow through the air ducts into the bedroom and living room.

Parts and materials

The theater begins with a hanger, and the hood begins with a fan.
Model for ⌀100 mm. It is quite compact and, according to the author of the inspiring video, provides sufficient performance. To exhaust air out of the window, a flat duct is required. We select its cross-section so that it approximately coincides with the round one. Which is equal to: S = ~7'854 mm². The two nearest standard flat channels have dimensions of 55x110 mm. (S = 6'050 mm²) and 60x120 mm. (S = 7'200 mm²). There is also a size of 60x204 mm. (S = 12'240 mm²), however it is already too bulky. We select a 60x120 channel as the cross-section closest to the round one. The flexible channel (sleeve) was made of white PVC simply because I personally liked it much more than the shiny “aluminium-like” one. Which looks like it was chewed by a cow and makes an unpleasant rustling noise when folded/unfolded.

Prices are for reference only as of the time of publication.

1. 1. Worm clamp ⌀90~110 mm: 39 ₽ x 2 pcs. = 78 ₽;
2. 2. Vertical elbow 90° 60x120 mm: 108 ₽;
3. 3. Round elbow 45° ⌀100 mm: 144 ₽;
4. 4. Round channel holder ⌀100 mm: 53 ₽;
5. 5. Flat channel 60x120 mm. length 0.5 m: 117 ₽;
6. 6. Direct transition from round to flat channel ⌀100 mm. 60x120 mm: 135 ₽;
7. 7. Flexible reinforced PVC air duct ⌀100 mm. 6 m.: 945 ₽;
8. 8. Duct fan Vents TT100 ⌀100 mm: 2'153 ₽;

Total: 3'733 ₽.

Final work on gypsum board sheathing

In fact, all the difficult work has already been left behind. Now you just need to cut the gypsum board into strips of the required size and screw it on. In fact, in the kitchen the box for the hood is almost ready, because it needs to be sheathed on the front and bottom. First we sew the front.

The sheets are pressed against the profile and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 20 cm. At the jumper points, self-tapping screws also need to be screwed in. So the box is completely sheathed from the front side. After this, the sheets are screwed from below, from the wall to the newly screwed gypsum board. The installation diagram is similar. A long sheet will be difficult to lift and hold above your head, so you can cut it into several pieces.

At a given location, you will need to drill a hole in the drywall for the ventilation pipe. You can make it on the floor in advance, if you don’t have a special attachment for a drill, and then attach the sheet with the finished hole.

When the plasterboard box for the kitchen hood is assembled, all that remains is to putty all the joints and screw heads. This is how the structure is prepared for finishing.

Varnishing process

Now you need a heat-resistant varnish. The requirements for varnish are simple:

1. Operating temperature up to 180 ºС.
2. Possibility to coat wooden products.

Two requirements are enough. The boards must be prepared and dried. We assume that readers do not have a special factory-type camera at home. We hang the boards over the stove before cutting to allow the material to dry. We'll do the sawing later.

First we put soil, protecting against rot and beetles. There is a stain on top.

It is not always necessary to wait for drying between two procedures. Then we recommend making a kitchen hood without waiting.

Prepare the mixture:

• 1 part varnish to 4 parts solvent.

The composition is applied to the wood after priming so that the varnish sets. Otherwise, the bottom layer will begin to peel off from our kitchen hood. We are waiting for it to dry completely. At the same time, work is underway to form the dome. To quickly dry the varnish, buy special products. You will need to apply 5 layers, not counting the first. Each one dries within the time specified by the instructions. Then each one is polished.

In order not to waste time, we process the plinth and platbands in parallel.

Assembly

First of all, we assemble the exhaust manifold to discharge air out the window.
We saw off a section of the channel 70 mm long. Let's try on how it should look: Degrease the surfaces and glue them together. For such cases, I use Akfix 610 polyurethane adhesive; it copes well with plastic and fills gaps perfectly. In addition to gluing, I additionally secured everything with four M3x10 screws. Finished design:

And to immediately answer the question, why not lengthen the knee so that the release is lower? Because it's a mosquito net. In its current form, the collector is hung on the window sash so as not to interfere with the mesh. If the release had been at least a couple of centimeters longer, it would have rested against the net.

Connect the power cable to the fan. In the distribution box on the side there is a hole marked for the switch, which you can use. Using any convenient method, cut a hole and insert the switch. Suitable for any size 21x15 mm. (for example MRS-101-2C3-B) for a current of at least 3 A. We connect the wire according to the instructions. Which states that N is the general output, and L1 and L2 are the minimum and maximum speeds, respectively:

On the cabinet wall, at a height approximately in the middle of the window, we mark holes for mounting the fan. At the bottom we mark holes for mounting for a 45° round elbow so that when inserted there it will take a vertical position. Drill the holes and screw all the fasteners:

The fun begins with flexible sleeves (channels). They are extremely unruly in the hands, bending and crumpling in all directions. Therefore, we act according to the following plan. First, we pull the end of the sleeve onto the transition of the exhaust manifold. It fits tightly like a plum, so it is not necessary to use a clamp; it is enough to wrap it with electrical tape to tidy up the steel cord sticking out to the side. We open the window up, put the exhaust manifold on the sash and try on the length of the sleeve to the upper fan pipe. Be sure to leave a reserve of 3~4 elbows so that you have something to fasten to. Cut off the sleeve. We stretch the resulting segment onto the upper fan pipe. It doesn't fit tightly there and dangles a lot. Holding the sleeve and the fan mount so as not to disturb their relative position, unscrew the mount. Wrap the sleeve tightly with electrical tape, leaving 3~4 loops of cord in the folded position. Insulating tape should not be spared here under any circumstances! It’s better to have a lot, but the clamp definitely won’t cut the thin film of the sleeve. Having generously wound the electrical tape, we put a clamp over it and tighten it.

We stretch the remaining section of the sleeve onto the lower fan mounting pipe. We wrap it with electrical tape. We put on the clamp and tighten it. We hang the fan mount in place and screw it on. We measure the sleeve so that it freely reaches the desired place on the workbench. Cut off the sleeve. We stretch it over the knee 45°. Fits tightly, no clamp required. We lay out the sleeve on the workbench, turning the knee so that it rests freely on its side and the sleeve does not twist. We wrap it with electrical tape, fixing this position.

We insert the fan into its mount and snap the clamps. It turns out like this:

And to put it all together, we drill a hole in the wall above the cabinet and screw a straight hook into it. We drill a hole for the hook in the wall of the exhaust manifold elbow. We simply assemble the sleeve laid out on the workbench and insert the round elbow into its mount. When folded it looks like this:

And with the blinds closed:

It turned out as planned - secretly and culturally, it folds/unfolds easily, quickly and conveniently.