Do-it-yourself waste oil stove - drawings, video instructions!

It's always nice to put waste materials to good use. And if it concerns fuel and heating, it is also very profitable. A striking example is waste oil heating furnaces. They can use any oil that can burn. Transmission, diesel, machine, confectionery, vegetable... Really any. There are no problems with fuel for such units. What they found, they filled it in. Moreover, a do-it-yourself furnace for mining is also made from waste materials: an old gas or oxygen cylinder, sections of pipes of different diameters or pieces of metal.

How to weld a simple stove

Then the heat is released in greater quantities into the room, rather than being “thrown out” to the street.
Another upgrade is to make an iron drawer. Oil is poured into it. With this design, the stove is easier to maintain. The drawing contains all the necessary dimensions. Before assembling a homemade oil stove, it is necessary to select the correct diameter of the firebox and body. Here everything depends on the volume of the room that needs to be heated. If it is a garage of 3 by 6 meters, take a profile of 80x80x4 mm. The fuel box is made of metal 60x60x4. It is more difficult to work with round rolled metal.

The step-by-step instructions look like this:

Cut the metal according to the drawings to make a casing, drawer, afterburner. If the latter has a bend, the tube is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
For a profile of a smaller standard size, one wall is cut out with a grinder. Plugs are welded to the sides. The result is an open container to which you need to attach a handle.
The structure is welded. It is necessary to drill an air hole at the top of the fuel chamber. The pipe is perforated. At this point the work is completed.

It should be taken into account that you need to calculate the number and diameter of holes in the afterburner. If you use a profile of 80 by 80 mm, then the cross-sectional area will be equal to 6400 square millimeters. This value is divided in two

Pay attention to the markings of the drill used. If it is 8 mm, then the hole area will be 50 sq. mm

Now 3200 must be divided by 50. The result is that 64 holes will be required to work effectively. However, as a result of customization, their number can be increased.

It is important that the chimney is of sufficient length. The elevation of the chimney outlet must be at least 5 meters

Then the operation of the stove during testing will ensure the highest possible efficiency even without supercharging. Otherwise, the pipe will have to be extended to this mark. But you can further increase productivity if you organize an inclined chimney running along the wall. The heated metal will release heat into the room. Only in this case is it important to follow fire safety rules. There should be no wooden shelves above the pipe, and no wallpaper on the walls. Even better is to cover the wall with a metal sheet.

Making a drip heater

Professionals who have assembled more than one “dripper” use old propane cylinders with a diameter of 200 mm. Oxygen ones are also suitable, since their cross section is 220 mm. the latter benefit due to thick walls. They serve for a long time, do not burn out, and accumulate heat. Pipe C-10 is also suitable if it has a wall thickness of 5 mm. An excellent option for a durable housing is pipes made of heat-resistant stainless steel alloys, alloyed chromium, molybdenum or nickel (for example, 15X1MF or 12X18H12T) with a wall no more than 3 mm. However, it is not advisable to specifically purchase this raw material due to its high cost.

Technologically, the manufacturing process is as follows:

A flame bowl is made using a piece of pipe or ready-made steel containers. This one is pulled out through a rubber hatch, so it is not made too big.
The openings necessary for connecting the chimney pipe and the cleaning service hatch are cut out in the body. The latter is framed and closed with a door. Bolts can be used for fastening.
An afterburner is being made. All holes are not made at once. Usually the bottom 2-3 rows are drilled, and the rest are drilled during the setup process. If you do everything at once and there are too many of them, you will have to make a new one.
Weld the cover with the air duct and flange. The latter is necessary for installing the fan. The fuel supply device is connected. Photo and video instructions will help here.

Now assemble all the components and connect the electrical wiring. The structure will be more stable if you make a metal frame. A heavy metal profile is suitable for this.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Master craftsmen make no secrets of their own achievements and are always ready to share their achievements and show homemade products at work. Pay attention to the video, which shows the same oven as in option #2, but with some modifications.

See how it works, what is the result of its use in external frost conditions to heat a fairly spacious garage space.

Once again, we draw your attention to the safety precautions that should be observed when using homemade stoves during testing.

Waste fuel, which you can get, if not completely for nothing, then for mere pennies, always attracts the attention of handy owners of garage workshops, greenhouses or other non-residential premises that require heating.

Yes, talented people can literally make a household item out of waste. But skill does not come from the outside: it is developed. Perhaps our information will help not only those who already know how, but also those who want to learn how to do everything with their own hands.

Would you like to share your own experience in constructing a heating device for testing? Do you have information that will be useful to site visitors who want to make a garage stove with their own hands? Please write comments in the block below, post photos on the topic, and ask questions.

This heater can heat rooms up to 400 cubic meters with good insulation, or up to 200 cubic meters. with poor insulation. The consumption of used oil will be from 300 ml per hour.

We equipped this heater with automatic equipment with two temperature sensors (flame presence sensor and room air temperature sensor), an oil pump, a heat exchanger blower fan and a boost fan.

The fan for blowing the heat exchanger heat exchanger also has a small automation in the form of a thermostat, which turns it on when the heater jacket heats up and turns it off when the air inside the heater cools down.

The oil pump supplies the waste dropwise into the perolysis bowl in a dosed manner and is controlled automatically. Depending on the operating modes, oil is supplied faster and slower.

Watch everything in the video, and if you have any questions, ask.

Second video about lighter fluid

How to build a stove from a pipe?

Do-it-yourself sauna stove from a pipe

One of the common homemade options is a bath stove made from a pipe. Let's consider how such construction is carried out.

Pipe is an excellent “semi-finished product” for constructing a furnace

Metal stoves can be made from a sheet of steel or, for example, from an old barrel. But if there is a piece of pipe of suitable diameter on the farm, then it is worth using this “blank”.

A homemade stove for a bathhouse made from a pipe can be made with a vertical or horizontal direction of a piece of rolled pipe. By using prefabricated stove pipes, the amount of welding work required when making sheet metal stoves is reduced.

Only high-quality pipes without signs of corrosion are suitable for the manufacture of furnaces.

If the pipe has been lying outside for a long time, it should be inspected first and reinforced in problem areas by welding patches.

Preparing parts

To make a good stove from a pipe, you will need a piece of rolled pipe with a diameter of 50 cm and a length of 1.5 meters. The thickness of the pipe walls must be at least 10 mm.

The workpiece should be cut into two parts, measuring 0.6 and 0.9 meters, respectively. A longer piece is needed to build a firebox and heater, and the remaining piece will be used to make a tank.

Making a furnace

An example of using a pipe stove in a bathhouse

First of all, you should take care of the blower. A hole 5 cm high and 20 cm wide is cut at the bottom of a long section of pipe. A thick round steel plate is welded above the hole.
Next, a niche for the firebox is formed and a door is made for it. The door is hung on hinges or hooks.
A piece of pipe is welded above the firebox, which will be used as a heater. The height of the segment is 30-35 cm.

To fill the heater, you should use rounded cobblestones; in extreme cases, you can pour electrical insulators made of ceramics.

A steel coupling is installed in the upper part of the future furnace, which will be required to fix the water heating boiler.

Making a water heating tank

Assortment of pipe bath stoves

When building a sauna stove with your own hands, a water heating tank is also formed from a pipe.

For its manufacture, a piece of pipe 0.6 m high is used.
A steel circle – the bottom – is welded to the end part of the pipe section.

Advice! The thickness of the metal for making the bottom of the water tank is at least 8 mm

A hole is cut in the bottom of the tank to accommodate the chimney. It should be moved towards the rear wall of the tank. The chimney is fixed to the bottom of the tank by welding

It is important that the seam is of high quality to prevent water leaks into the firebox. The upper part of the tank is closed with a metal lid with holes made for the passage of the chimney and for filling with water. The chimney is welded tightly to the lid, and a neck with a lid is installed in the hole for filling water.

Top drip fuel supply device

Oven with plasma bowl

An oil furnace with a fuel chamber located below is much simpler in design. In this case, the ratio of the sizes of the upper and lower chambers is also unimportant. However, the efficiency of such devices is low.

It can be increased by installing an upper fuel supply. Such furnaces for mining are called drip furnaces . Fuel supplied through a small stainless steel tube with a diameter of 8-10 mm enters the heated bowl and, when completely burned, releases much more heat. This can be determined by the color of the flame - in them it is not yellow, but white-blue. Drip furnaces also have another name – furnaces with a plasma bowl. To increase traction, it is better to provide the unit with a supercharger - a fan connected to the air duct.

There is a fundamental difference in the design of such drip-type mining furnaces - the perforated pipe in them is located inside the body. For this reason, the devices are considered more secure. The plasma bowl can be made from a piece of pipe or a thick-walled steel container. You should not make the tray too high - when cleaning the oven, the bowl should be easily removed.

Some craftsmen, without bothering, make the fuel supply single-stage. But such devices are very dangerous - the supply tube, located close to the stove, gets very hot. Plus, the fuel supply will be unstable - heated oil will liquefy and drip faster. And accidentally opening the valve all the way can cause a fire.

More advanced is two-stage supply , which provides a safety float valve. The capillator in such devices must be dosing.

Drip feed in oven

Drip furnaces also have the ability to more precisely regulate the air supply. To do this, the number of holes in the pipe and the diameter are gradually reduced in height. In the bottom row they can be replaced with vertical slits. In this case, oxygen will flow into the combustion chamber in precise portions in accordance with the needs of the burning gases.

To make a lightweight stove more stable, it can be welded to a frame made from a metal angle.

Where to apply and how to modify

Due to a significant list of disadvantages, waste oil heaters are rarely used in housing. But they are widely used for heating technical and production areas. Motorists use them in garages, gardeners - in greenhouses, livestock breeders - in outbuildings. There is always a place for them at car washes, service stations, and warehouses where there are no flammable materials.

Often basic designs are subject to various kinds of modifications. For example, a water jacket or water heating coils are used for these purposes. Such equipment is included in water heating. Furnaces of this type must operate using automation, otherwise their functioning will have to be closely monitored.

Do-it-yourself wood-burning heat gun

Fuel is loaded into the combustion chamber.
As soon as the air heats up, the fan will turn on, which will be connected to the heating chamber pipe with a hood.
There is a horizontal partition inside the cylinder; due to the fact that it absorbs the greatest thermal load, the air heats up quite quickly.
The hot air coming from the second pipe can heat any point in the room.

The blowing device in this device is a fan, the choice of which depends on the area of the room: for a small room, a cooler located in a computer system unit is suitable. For medium-sized housing, you can use household fans located in hoods.

Cut off the upper part of the cylinder; this must be done along the welding seam. For a more powerful design, it is necessary to trim the top below the weld seam. Before doing this, you need to unscrew the valve, and to prevent the remaining propane from exploding, fill it with water. If this is not done, then working with an angle grinder will be dangerous.
Make additional parts. Cut a circle of about 300 mm in size from metal; it will act as a partition. For the doors you need to frame them in the form of a strip 80 mm wide. If the material remains, then small strips can be cut from it, which will be used for heat exchange fins.
Make a grate, adjusting the length of its rods to the size of the cylinder, then place it in its lower part.
Cut openings to accommodate loading door. The door frame is inserted into them; they are a welded structure made of strips. You should first prepare the doors by welding hinges and handles to them.
Make an air chamber. Place the prepared metal circle instead of the cut off upper part and weld it tightly. Attach a fan in it and weld the fins.
Install the chimney pipe.

Making a pyrolysis furnace for mining

Now you know how to assemble a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands. The unit running on exhaust or any oil will delight you with a lot of heat. For example, the exhaust furnace diagram presented above is designed to heat a room with an area of 70-80 square meters. m. Let's now look at the scheme for creating a pyrolysis unit - that is, a small potbelly stove.

Assembly diagram of a pyrolysis furnace operating on waste.

This oven will consist of three main parts:

Oil container with lid and flap;
Combustion/pyrolysis chamber;
Afterburner chamber.

It all culminates with a chimney. Its recommended length is at least three meters, but chimneys with a height of 4-5 meters work best.

The oil container is made from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 344 mm, its height is 100 mm. We weld a sheet metal lid on the bottom. Our top cover is removable, it is made from a pipe with a diameter of 352 mm - sides with a height of 600 are welded to it. In the cover we make a central hole for the combustion chamber with a diameter of 100 mm. We make a hole nearby with a diameter of 60 mm - it will serve as a blower. This hole is closed with a simple rotating lid.

By adjusting the clearance of the blower, we can regulate the intensity of combustion, which will affect the air temperature in the room. If you completely close the vent while the stove is running, it may go out.

We make an afterburning chamber - we use a pipe with a diameter of 352 mm and a height of 100 mm. In the lower part we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm into which the combustion chamber pipe is inserted. In the top cover we make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. Inside, closer to the chimney opening, we weld a small partition 330 mm wide and 70 mm high. Our do-it-yourself oven is almost ready.

It remains to modify the combustion chamber. Everything is simple here - take a drill and a 9 mm drill bit, drill 48 holes (6 rows of 8 holes each). With a total combustion chamber pipe height of 360 mm, the holes should be located in an area 20 mm from the bottom and 50 mm from the top.

After completing all the work, check the tightness of all welds - this will allow you to count on maximum efficiency of the stove.

Check the performance of the resulting unit outside. This will protect you from possible fire and other accidents.

We start testing the furnace - we install it outside, pour the waste into an oil container, and add kerosene on top. Carefully set it on fire, leaving the ash pan open. After some time, the stove will return to operating mode - you can adjust the burning intensity using the blower. After this, the stove is moved indoors (it must be ventilated).

In order for heating to be as efficient as possible, install the furnace in a corner, and line the side walls with galvanized iron so that all the heat is reflected into the room.

Features of supercharged oil furnace

An exhaust furnace, the design of which has a built-in forced air injection into the combustion zone, will help to heat a private house with an area of 100 m2. These advantages are obvious:

increased power;
high fuel combustion efficiency;
You can increase the efficiency of heat use by automating the device;
efficiency.

It is somewhat more difficult to make such a stove during testing; in addition, this design directly depends on the stability of the power supply. In areas where power outages are common, special measures will be needed to ensure uninterrupted power supply using generators.

A home-made supercharged furnace operating in mining is a closed cylindrical vessel, inside of which there is a familiar afterburning chamber, which looks like a pipe with holes. At the bottom of the structure there is a door that provides access to the firebox and ignition. A chimney pipe is welded to the top of the cylinder, and using a conventional cut-in through the side wall or top cover, a forced air supply is provided in the form of a pipe with holes.

At the bottom of the vessel there is fuel (exhaust), which is supplied automatically as it is consumed. Feeding methods can be very varied: using a float mechanism or from a container using a submersible mechanism, it all depends on personal preference. The figure shows a diagram of a furnace with air injection, a water jacket and fuel supply using a float valve.

Using a small amount of solvent or gasoline, the waste is ignited at the bottom of the container, and then the blower fan is turned on. As soon as the fuel warms up, it begins to release vapors that are burned with excess oxygen. As a result, a powerful flame is formed, which spreads in all directions as seen in the photograph.

Advice. This design is distinguished by one feature: due to the strong flame, the bottom of the vessel becomes very hot. If it is necessary to heat one room, a blowing fan is installed outside opposite this zone. In cases where it is necessary to heat an entire house, the stove is equipped with a water jacket.

Combustion products leaving the furnace container can reach a fairly high temperature, about 400 0C. As in the previous design, in order to reduce heat loss, the chimney must be equipped with a heat exchanger connected to the heating system through a storage tank. This will help increase the efficiency of the furnace to 80 - 85%.

Improvement options

The model presented above is a basic base, onto which additional elements can be attached at the request of the master. For example:

To increase the efficiency of the stove, a heat exchanger can be built in its upper part. Passing through the labyrinths, hot air heats it, and therefore the air in the room. Then, to the method of heating with infrared radiation, air is also added.
Sometimes a reflector is made consisting of two pipes. One of them forces cold air in; hot air will come out of the other. This option is good because the heat from this pipe can be transferred to the next room.
You can “dress” the stove in a brick coat. When warming up, the brickwork retains heat for some time.
You can also build a permanent water tank in the upper part and use the stove as a boiler.
A metal tube and any container (even a plastic bottle) is suitable for making automatic oil supply, based on the principle of communicating vessels.

How to paint the stove? To make paint, you need to mix liquid glass (500 g), aluminum powder (200 g) and chalk (20 g). Mix everything. Ready!

Let's sum it up

After reading today's article, someone will say that it is easier to buy a stove using factory-made waste oil. However, the cost of such units is not affordable for everyone. Making it yourself requires virtually no costs, which is a huge plus. Of course, you will have to go by trial and error, but in the end such a stove will not only warm the air in the room. It will also make your soul feel warm to realize that all the work was done independently.

We hope that the information presented today was useful to our dear reader. If you have any questions, we will be happy to answer them in the discussions below. We will also be grateful if you share your experience - this will help novice home craftsmen. And finally, we suggest watching a short but very informative video on the topic, which will help you learn how to properly ignite such units.

Comparison with modern models

As for today's stoves, they are not at all similar to the old prototypes, with the exception of the potbelly stove, which retains the original principle of operation. In the sixties of the last century, the combustion of fuel to the state of carbon dioxide and water vapor was not considered something harmful, which cannot be said about the present time. Now any greenhouse gases are a dangerous enemy of the environment, so people are trying to abandon systems that pollute the environment. It is still impossible to ensure complete afterburning of the waste, but achieving maximum efficiency is quite possible.

Modern oil furnaces are different from the original ones

Also, in the distant past, there were no motor oils on the market with synthetic additives and clever additives, which can reduce the fuel consumption of internal combustion engines several times, but if burned incorrectly, they release carcinogens, toxic substances and mutagens. And people then were more resistant to various environmental influences, and the population was about 2.5 times smaller than now.

And in the end, Soviet engine oil was a natural petroleum product made on the basis of saturated carbons, which could not reach a high combustion temperature. This means that the appearance of harmful and dangerous nitrogen oxides in those heaters was practically eliminated. Modern installations emit such substances in significant quantities, which forces us to look for cleaner and alternative solutions.

Electric heat guns

These heating units are the simplest and most inexpensive, and they do not emit any harmful substances. They use a specially shaped air heating element as a heating element, repeating the roundness of the body.

In fact, the “barrel” of such a gun is empty from the inside; at one end there is an axial fan, and on the other side, where the air comes out, there is an electric heating element. In more powerful models, several heaters are installed. The device can be used in any enclosed space, as long as there is a source of electricity.

Electric appliances are much easier to operate than gas appliances. Therefore, the electric heat gun is equipped with a step-by-step power regulator and overheating protection, and can also be powered from 220 and 380 V networks. Thanks to such a simple design, the electric fan heater is most suitable for both self-production and household use.

If you carefully study the design of diesel and gas fan heaters, it will become clear that making them at home is not easy. Even then, it will be possible to assemble a direct heating gun, but it will be difficult to create an effective heat exchanger to separate the flows. True, some home craftsmen solve this issue with the help of 2 pipes placed one inside the other, but such a design is ineffective and will throw a lot of heat into the chimney.

But almost anyone can make a heat gun with their own hands if it runs on electricity. For this you will need:

thin sheet metal for making the body;
nichrome heating coil;
a small electric motor or a ready-made axial fan of a suitable size;
insulating pads for attaching the spiral. You can cut out asbestos yourself;
terminals, wires, switches.

The power of the unit will depend on the spiral, so it should be selected according to resistance. For example, if we need 3 kW of heat, then the current flowing through the spiral will be equal to 3000 W / 220 V = 13.6 A. Then, according to Ohm’s law, the resistance of the spiral should be 220 V / 13.6 A = 16.2 Ohm. After selection, it is secured inside the housing using insulating blocks. The metal case can be made from two pre-bent halves, fastening them together with self-tapping screws. An axial fan is installed at the end of the resulting pipe.

The heating element and fan are connected to the network via switches, after which the heater is ready for operation. But such a homemade heat gun is too primitive and cannot be adjusted; in addition, the spiral actively burns oxygen. Advanced users with knowledge of electrical engineering can use air heating elements of the required power with thermostats instead of nichrome. You can also add step regulation to the unit if you turn on the heating elements one by one.

How to make a burner yourself

To understand how to make a Babington burner device, you need to study its design from the drawings. You can find quite a few of these on the Internet, but for manufacturing it is better to adopt the experience of specialists and use a proven prototype for work. Below is a drawing of a burner made and tested by one of the experienced participants in one of the specialized forums:

Now a few words about what the unit can be made from according to this drawing. The author used a regular steel tee with threads for connecting pipes with a diameter of 2 inches (DN50) as a body. Instead of a tee, a cross of the same size will do. The remaining elements are in accordance with the list:

Any metal part with a hemispherical end can act as a nozzle

Hemisphere or hollow ball for a Babington burner. There are several options - starting from a brass door handle and ending with various spherical nuts.

The nozzle is made from a metal pipe with an external pipe thread, length – 150-200 mm.
Copper tube with a diameter of 10 mm for the fuel path.
Metal tube for organizing air supply. Diameter – at least 10 mm.
Threaded fittings are used to connect a copper tube to the body.

You will also need a small pump to pump used oil. Units from a VAZ car or motorcycle cope well with this task; you just need to ensure their rotation from an electric motor. Any low-power compressor is suitable, including one from a refrigerator, since the pressure in the air path should be low (nominal - about 2 Bar, maximum - 4 Bar).

An important operation is to drill a calibrated hole of very small diameter in the improvised nozzle. But first you need to select a drill of the required size, because the power of the future homemade Babington burner will depend on the size of the hole. Calculating power will be discussed in the next section, and how to make a small hole yourself is shown in detail in the video:

Compliance with safety regulations

For safe operation of homemade heating during testing, it is necessary to pay special attention to the quality of the oil. It should not contain substances that are easily flammable - gasoline, acetone and others.

The quality of automobile waste, as a rule, leaves much to be desired. When using them, carbon deposits may form, which will have to be cleaned off from time to time.

In addition, the following safety precautions should be observed.

The diameter of the chimney should not be less than 10 cm. A sandwich chimney is preferable: less soot is deposited on its surface.
There cannot be any flammable substances near the boiler, including the fuel tank. Only at a safe distance.
Avoid getting water or other liquid into the chamber with hot oil. The consequences of such a leak are presented in the video in the final part of this article.
During the operation of a boiler using waste oil, heating temperatures significantly exceed those achieved during the combustion of solid fuel. Therefore, thick-walled materials are chosen for this design.
It is advisable to equip the boiler room with a forced air circulation system.

Do not leave the unit running unattended. This is an effective, but quite dangerous thing.

How does an exhaust boiler work?

Heating a private house with a waste oil boiler is organized thanks to several important elements of the fuel supply, filtration and heat exchange system. The design contains the following components:

Oil pump - connected to a preheating chamber and a filter that traps solid particles. Pump function, optimization of supply of waste quantity to the burner device.
Preheating chamber - to reduce the percentage of underburning, used oil is preheated to a temperature optimal for combustion.
Turbines - fuel is sprayed into the combustion chamber in the form of fine dust, while at the same time a stable flame is maintained. To operate, the simultaneous operation of two turbines, a combustion fan and a compressor is required.
The controller is the heart of domestic oil recovery boilers. Ensures synchronous operation of all important components of heating equipment. Modern stations are connected to a remote control and warning unit and have a multi-level protection system that prevents emergency situations.
Heat exchanger – depends on the type of boiler:
Domestic boilers for the home are equipped with one or two circuits connected to the heating and hot water system.

For use in domestic conditions, it is impractical and dangerous to install homemade heaters. It is allowed to connect exclusively factory-assembled boilers registered by Rostechnadzor.

An oil-fuel heating boiler for a private home or cottage, using waste oil, is economically beneficial for several reasons:

Availability of fuel.
Low cost of development.

The average calculation of the required amount of oil is calculated in the following way:

Find out the maximum performance of the boiler; information is in the technical documentation.
Divide it by 10.
The result obtained is multiplied by 1000 50%.

The principle of boilers operating on recycled fuel is the same in all cases. It consists of evaporating the oil and burning the steam from it.

Principle of oil evaporation

But there are small nuances in this technology. All used oils contain many heavy metals, additives and other elements. The task is to build a unit that will allow you to accumulate heat inside, and not immediately discharge all these elements into the chimney. Complete oxidation of all elements occurs only if the maximum temperature inside the boiler is reached - 6000C.

The temperature indicator in this case is a very important point. Without going into lengthy explanations of chemical processes, we can say briefly: harmless combustion and evaporation of fuel can only occur at a temperature of 600 degrees. A deviation of 200 degrees to one side or the other will provoke the release of very harmful toxic substances.

Exhaust boiler with water circuit

Used oil is poured into the lower tank. The top layer of oil in the evaporation chamber heats up, resulting in the formation of steam. As it rises, it exits into a perforated pipe and connects with air, reaches the upper tank and burns. And the combustion products themselves are discharged through the pipe through the chimney.

Thus, the room is heated, but no toxic waste is released that is harmful to human health. This fact immediately answers the main question that interests many before building such a unit: “How harmful is a boiler during mining?”

Waste oil boiler diagram

You should clearly understand the operating principle and technology of oil evaporation in such a unit. It is not the oil itself that burns here, but its vapor. Due to the fact that the spent fuel heats up and begins to evaporate even before combustion begins, it becomes possible to decompose such burning fuel into lighter elements.

Where are similar heating units used?

in production premises;
in premises for keeping animals;
in auto repair shops, service stations;
in greenhouses;
in warehouses and garages.

Almost any oil, including shock-absorbing oil, can be used as fuel for such a boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main and main advantage is that spent fuel and oils are used, which would otherwise be disposed of. If the technology is followed, combustion is so complete that virtually no harmful emissions occur into the atmosphere. Other advantages are no less significant:

simple design;
high efficiency;
low cost of equipment and fuel;
works on any oils, organic, synthetic, vegetable origin;
Content of up to 10% of pollutants is allowed.

There are also serious disadvantages. And the main thing is that if the technology is not followed, fuel combustion occurs incompletely. And its vapors enter the room, and this is very dangerous. Therefore, the main and main requirement: furnaces operating on waste oil are installed exclusively in rooms with a ventilation system.

For comparison: this is a waste oil boiler with an inflatable burner. The technology is different, as is the design (more details in the video almost at the end of the article)

There are also disadvantages:

to ensure good draft, the chimney must be straight and high - at least 5 meters;
Regular cleaning of the bowl and chimney is required - daily;
problematic ignition: you must first heat the bowl, then supply fuel;
water heating options are possible, but their independent design is a difficult task - you cannot significantly lower the temperature in the combustion zone, otherwise the whole process will fall apart (an alternative is to install a water jacket on the chimney, in which case it certainly will not prevent the breakdown of the fuel).

Due to these features, such units are rarely used for heating residential buildings. If they are installed, it is in separate rooms and in a modified form.

Types of Russian-made waste oil burners

During the cold season, not only residential but also auxiliary premises need heating. Currently, devices using different types of fuel are used for heating, including waste or waste technical oil. On the Russian market you can find devices that process different fuel bases, as well as having a narrow specialization. Based on the type of fuel burned, such devices are:

In terms of functionality, burners used for testing are not only heating, but also welding and lighting.

gas;
liquid fuel;
combined.

The simplest and most economical device for heating a room is considered to be an exhaust burner. According to functionality, burners are divided into 3 subtypes:

welding;
lighting;
heating.

The operating principle of these devices was borrowed from primitive kerosene gas back in the 50s. Quite quickly, the simplest burners became popular; they began to be purchased for heating country houses and garages. In those days, any fuel was inexpensive, but over time, zealous owners, inventors and innovators began to look for a replacement for gasoline, diesel fuel and kerosene. Fuel oil and waste oil were used, which are now used as full-fledged fuel. Today, the device is still relevant, and is also an excellent way to preserve the environment.

Note! In a room where any liquid fuel device will be used, be it a homemade gasoline burner, a working unit, or a DIY diesel fuel burner, there must be a fire extinguisher! By type, burners for processing are liquid fuel, gas and combined

Operating rules

Furnace in production

Mining furnaces are devices with an increased fire hazard, therefore, when installing and operating them, the following rules must be observed:

The potbelly stove should not be located in a draft
In a furnace clogged with soot, the likelihood of boiling oil splashing is very high. Therefore, such structures require regular cleaning.
Filling the chamber with oil completely to avoid splashing it out when heating is strictly prohibited - it is filled only 2/3, or even better, half of the tank, so that there is enough space for the formation of vapors
Adding fuel while the stove is operating is also prohibited.
Do not use oils containing other substances, as well as gasoline or diesel fuel. There may be an explosion
The distance between the stove and the wall is at least 0.5 m
It can only be installed on a metal sheet or concrete floor
If the walls of the room are upholstered with flammable material, they must be additionally sheathed with sheet metal in the area where the stove is located. This will also help redirect the flow of warm air into the room and increase the efficiency of the device
Do not store any flammable objects or substances in the stoker.

The author of the following video has studied the entire process of manufacturing such structures in detail and is happy to share his own developments with his subscribers.

A detailed video on the manufacture of a furnace during mining can be viewed at the link:

Disadvantages of the furnace during mining

Furnaces under development

Of course, such designs have a significant advantage - low cost of fuel. But there are also many disadvantages:

To ensure uninterrupted combustion of the furnace, constant and sufficiently strong draft is required
high fire hazard (we will discuss the rules for operating the furnace during mining below)
frequent cleaning of soot: if you make the body one-piece, after a couple of months you simply will not be able to use the stove - it will begin to smoke mercilessly
high fuel consumption - you will need at least 2 l/hour
The heat transfer of devices is not that great; most of the energy, unfortunately, flies into the chimney

Most of these shortcomings can be smoothed out by improving the design - installing a fan to increase the combustion temperature, an expansion tank, etc. But due to these shortcomings, stoves are used mainly for temporary heating of utility rooms.

Even if you make a stove according to proven drawings, in any case you will have to bring it to perfection yourself: adjust the draft force, fan rotation speed and fuel dosing. It’s also not worth making all the holes in the afterburning pipe right away - do the first two bottom ones first, and drill the rest after full setup.

Chimney installation

Stove chimney

For such structures, stable, powerful traction is very important. Otherwise, the fuel will begin to fade and smoke. Therefore, the chimney is made with a length of 4 m. An increase in draft helps remove combustion products from the room, which reduces the likelihood of poisoning from them.

The diameter of the pipe should be sufficient - on average about 100 mm. Soot in such structures collects much faster than in conventional furnaces, so bends, as well as tilts, are unacceptable - the pipe should be installed strictly vertically. Therefore, when choosing a place to install a potbelly stove, you should first find a convenient hole for the chimney.

The part of the pipe leading outside should be insulated. Otherwise, the oven will have to be cleaned more often - condensation, mixing with soot, will settle on the walls. The chimney in such devices is made collapsible so that it can be easily removed and carbon deposits removed.

Popular options for pre-fabricated furnaces, their characteristics

The Teplamos NT-612 stove is often chosen as a device used for heating a garage. The power of such a drip fanless heater can vary between 5-15 kW. Fuel consumption is 0.5-1.5 l/hour.

This furnace for use in a garage is a closed type device. It is equipped with a chimney, an air supply pipe and a built-in tank designed for 8 liters of fuel. Fuel combustion occurs in the inner chamber. The operation of the device begins with electrical heating of the plasma bowl. When the required temperature is reached, fuel is supplied and air is forced into the combustion chamber. The average cost of the device is 30 thousand rubles.

Another popular model is the Zhar-25 (MS-25) stove. This device can operate not only on waste oil, but also on diesel fuel. The device operates from the electrical network, which powers the internal fan. The thermal power of the furnace varies from 25 to 50 kW. It is designed to heat a room up to 500 square meters. m. Maximum fuel consumption is 4.5 l/hour. The device has large dimensions. Its weight reaches 130 kg. This stove needs to be equipped with a good chimney. You can buy it for 45 thousand rubles.

The exhaust furnace is equipped with a chimney, an air supply pipe and a built-in tank

Do-it-yourself stove made of sheet metal and pipes

Depending on the type of device, the structure can be created from pipes of different diameters or from iron sheets. To work you will need the following tools:

grinder with cutting and grinding wheel;
sheet metal and pipes;
welding machine and electrodes;
metal corners;
metal paint that can withstand high temperatures.

Before making a furnace for testing, a detailed drawing of the apparatus is made. You can create it yourself or use ready-made options that are easy to find on websites on the Internet.

The first step is to make the lower part of the chamber connecting to the fuel tank. It looks like a rounded or straight tank with a lid where two pipes are located. The first is used to supply oil, and the second is used to strengthen the pipe that goes into the middle part of the device. Elements for the tank are cut out with a grinder and connected according to the drawing.

Depending on the type of device, the structure can be created from pipes of different diameters or from iron sheets

The bottom and metal corners are welded to the walls of the tank, which act as the legs of the structure. To create a lid, a sheet of metal is taken and holes are made in it. The first, with a diameter of 100 mm, is located in the center; the second, 60 mm in size, is located closer to the edge. The lid should be removable, which will make cleaning the stove easier.

A pipe about 37 cm long and 100 mm in diameter is used to supply oxygen. It has holes along the entire length of the element necessary for the supply of oxygen. The pipe is welded perpendicular to the cover at the bottom of the apparatus. An air damper is fixed on it, which will be secured with a rivet or bolts. The hole under the damper should be 6 cm in size. It is intended for supplying oil and igniting fuel.

The design of the upper tank is carried out by analogy with the design of the lower tank according to the drawing of a furnace using waste oil with your own hands. The walls of the product must have a thickness of at least 350 mm. A bottom with a diameter of 10 cm is cut out of the bottom of the tank, which should be placed closer to the edge. A small piece of pipe with a diameter of 11 cm is welded to the bottom of the hole. This is necessary to connect the element to the gas combustion tank.

Before making a furnace for testing, a detailed drawing of the apparatus is completed

Since the top cover of the supercharged exhaust furnace is exposed to high temperatures, a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 6 mm should be used for its manufacture. There is an opening in the lid for the chimney pipe, which should coincide with the opening at the bottom of the container. Between these elements, a partition made of dense metal sheet is mounted, located near the smoke hole. A pipe is attached to the top of the lid, connecting to the chimney part. The self-production process can be seen in detail in the video of the furnace being tested.

Design and principle of operation of an oil furnace

The design looks like two tanks, upper and lower, connected by a perforated pipe. They are offset relative to each other's transverse axis. Many people believe that tanks should ideally be cylindrical in shape, but in practice it turns out that rectangular ones are absolutely not inferior to them. In order for the structure to be installed on the floor, its structure is provided with legs. The furnace structure is shown in the diagram below:

The operating principle of the device is pyrolysis combustion of heavy fuel. Many people know that engine oil ignites at fairly high temperatures, and to burn it at home you will need to turn it into vapor. To create this effect, you will need to fill the bottom tank with waste through the hole about halfway, and then ignite it. But for this you will need a light fuel such as solvent or gasoline.

As gasoline burns, the waste heats up and begins to evaporate, as a result of which the vapors ignite and the furnace begins to “work.” The lower tank is the primary combustion chamber, where the fuel is partially burned due to the supply of air through the hole. To regulate the intensity of the process, a special damper is used, with the help of which the air flow is partially blocked. Maximum fuel consumption is 2 l/h, in temperature support mode – 0.5 l/h.

A do-it-yourself stove is equipped with a vertical gas duct, which has a large number of holes for the passage of secondary air. The combustion products that enter the perforated pipe mixed with waste vapors are burned well in it and inside the upper tank. After this, the flue gases exit the stove through the chimney pipe, going around the partition. Their temperature is quite high, and in order to save most of the heat along with the gases, it is recommended to carry out the following actions:

lay the chimney along the wall through the entire room, making a slope towards the stove, this is a proven method, the walls of the pipeline have good heat transfer;
mount a water circuit, an economizer, immediately behind the pipe, connecting to it a small tank, a battery, and a couple of heating radiators.

With a water circuit, an oil furnace can only operate in constant mode. If you intend to use it only periodically, then it is recommended to use antifreeze as a coolant. Thus, you can increase the efficiency from 40%, like a stove, to quite serious 50-55%.

How to build your own apparatus based on the Babington burner principle: drawings

The principle of operation of a homemade burner, made based on the idea of Robert Babington, is clear from the drawings, where the components of the unit are visible:

Drawing of a waste oil burner according to Babington.

waste oil tank;
waste tray;
fuel supply pipe;
a small fuel pump for supplying portions of oil;
hemisphere for spraying with a small hole;
heating chamber with heating element (may be missing).

On a note! The testing nozzle is not a mandatory element for organizing the smooth combustion process. It can be successfully replaced by a nozzle - a small hole for supplying an air stream and fuel. To ensure that it does not become clogged, its serviceability must be monitored.

The used oil evaporates and flows down the hemisphere. These oily vapors are mixed with the air mass, resulting in a fuel mixture. The remaining oil that has not had time to be utilized flows into the pan, and from there through the tube back into the fuel tank.

This unit, based on Babington's patent, designed to burn liquid fuel, is quite simple. Therefore, it can be reproduced from scrap parts in a home workshop. Success depends on the exact compliance of the parts with their intended purpose and on the coordinated operation of all components. Therefore, before making a burner with your own hands, you should carefully calculate all the parameters.

The design of the burner is quite simple, so it can be made from available materials. Note! If you take one option as a basis, for example, the Gnome burner, using ready-made drawings and recommendations from craftsmen, it is difficult to make a mistake in the size and functionality of the parts.

What materials and tools are needed?

Any craftsman with the skills to work with a welding machine can easily and quickly make a stove with his own hands. First you need to prepare materials by checking the drawings of the waste oil furnace.

Following such detailed instructions on how to make a stove, all that remains is to assemble the prepared parts. To perform the work you will need a standard set of tools and accessories:

welding machine;
Bulgarian;
drill with a set of drills;
a set of metalwork tools;
measuring devices.

After the assembly is completed, it is imperative to check the tightness of both containers and the quality of the welding seams, since over time the waste can seep through the smallest pores and defects. It is quite easy to perform this operation yourself; there are many methods. You can soap the joints and apply compressed air inside the tanks, or coat the seams with kerosene and visually identify defects.

To heat a medium-sized room, the power of an oil furnace needs to be increased; the design described above will not be enough. Using a similar method, power cannot be increased indefinitely, but options still exist. For example, a furnace equipped with two afterburning chambers, a retractable firebox and a separate fuel tank, as shown below:

Furnace using a gas cylinder

Materials and tools for making a stove

The easiest way to make a furnace is from a used gas, oxygen or carbon cylinder. The cylinders have good wall thickness, thanks to which such a stove will last for many years. A heating unit from one cylinder can heat a room up to 90 m2. This design can also be converted for water heating. A stove from a cylinder will not require forced air supply, and the oil will flow by gravity. To prevent the cylinder from heating up to fire-hazardous temperatures, it is necessary to set the height of the unit contour in accordance with the height of the combustion source inside the device. To make a stove from a used cylinder you need to purchase:

chimney pipes with an internal diameter of at least 10 cm, a wall thickness of no more than 2 mm and a length of at least 4 m;
fuel tank with a volume of 8−15 liters;
burner pipes;
welding machine and electrodes;
Bulgarian;
file;
steel corners;
drill and set of drills;
level and roulette.

Manufacturing technology

up to 1.5 cm thick, filled to the top with water

The top of the cylinder is cut off with a grinder. After the first cut, water begins to flow into the pan or onto the ground. When the water has drained, you can continue cutting the top. Most of the bottom will serve as a chamber, and the cut off top with a valve will become the oven lid.

Using a welding machine, we weld 20 cm “legs” for the stove from steel corners to the bottom of the cylinder. Then the balloon is placed on its “legs”. In the upper part of the sawn-off lower half of the cylinder, we retreat 10-15 cm from above and, using welding, cut a hole for the main exhaust pipe along the diameter of the pipe.

As a hood, you need to choose a thin-walled chimney pipe with a diameter of at least 10 cm and a length of at least 4 m. We insert it into the hole made, hold it strictly vertically and weld it. You also need to make a small hole in the chimney pipe, covered with a plate. With its help you can regulate the air supply.

In the same pipe, at a height of one meter from the floor, a hole is made for a new pipe with a diameter of 5-8 cm and a length of 2-4 m. The pipe is inserted parallel to the floor and welded.

A hole with a diameter of 5-8 cm is cut in the cut off upper part of the cylinder. Recycled oil will be poured into it.

In the upper removable part of the cylinder you can connect a “tray” on which you can heat a mug of water or porridge. To do this, a small square or rectangle is cut out of a steel sheet and welded to the lid. Or it can be installed on a pipe that is parallel to the floor.

Oven operation

Used oil is poured into 2/3 of the container. Then you need to light a sheet of paper, place it on top of the oil and close the oven lid.

After a certain time, the temperature inside the furnace will begin to rise, the oil will evaporate and spontaneous combustion of oil vapors will occur.

After finishing work and cooling the oven, you need to empty it of its contents. Clean the upper removable part from accumulated soot by tapping the lid on the cylinder.

Several successful homemade products

Using the basic design principle, you can always come up with a product that will best suit your own needs. We will try to offer you some options that are worthy not only of attention, but also of implementation.

Option #1 – with a finished body

This design may appeal to the home craftsman who has already mastered welding skills. Its essence lies in the use of a finished base as the body of the product - an oxygen or gas cylinder, pipe or barrel with thick walls.

To visualize the process of turning billets into a mining furnace, carefully consider the diagram below.

The product uses a plasma bowl and, therefore, drip feed technology. It is capable of producing approximately 15 kW of heat, which will heat up to 150 m2 of area.

You should not try to modernize this model with the goal of increasing its performance by increasing the air flow or changing the size of the combustion chamber. This can lead to an increase in the volume of soot and smoke, which is unsafe.

First, we need to build the base of the model - its body. To do this, we need a pipe with a height of 780 mm, a diameter of 210 mm and with thick walls (at least 10 mm). We cut out the bottom of the case from a steel sheet (at least 5 mm). The diameter of the bottom circle is 219 mm. All that remains is to weld the bottom to one side of the body.

The legs that you have to weld to the bottom can be made from strong bolts. To monitor the combustion process inside the pipe and be able to start heating the bowl, you need to make an inspection window in the housing 70 mm from the bottom level. To do this, a hole should be cut in the housing of such a size that it is functional - convenient for the user.

The cut out part of the pipe will be used to make the opening door. You just need to weld a neat collar to it and lay an asbestos cord around its perimeter so that the door hermetically closes the hole. We secure the door to the body using bolts.

For the chimney you will need a pipe with a diameter of 108 mm with thick walls (4 mm). It should be welded to the body on the side opposite to the one where the inspection window is cut. Step back 7-10 cm from the top.

To make the lid, a round blank with a diameter of 228 mm is cut out of sheet metal (5 mm thick). A bead should be welded along the edge of the workpiece. To do this, you need a metal strip 3 mm thick and 40 mm wide. In the resulting lid we make another inspection hole on the side with a diameter of 18 mm. Its door will act as a safety valve.

In the center of the lid we cut out another hole with a diameter of 89 mm. An air supply pipe will be inserted into it, which is made from a piece 76 cm long, 89 mm in diameter, and 3 mm in wall thickness.

We perforate the workpiece. To do this, we retreat 5 cm from the edge and drill 9 holes with a diameter of 5 mm in a circle. After 5 cm, you need to make two more rows of holes - 8 in a row, diameter 4.2 mm. After another 5 cm we make a fourth row of holes - 9 pieces, diameter 3 mm.

To complete the next job we will need a grinder. Along the edge of the pipe, from which we retreated 5 cm, we cut slots 3 cm high and 1.6 mm thick. There should be 9 such slots around the circumference.

From the opposite end of the pipe, 5-7 mm from the edge, cut a hole 10 mm in diameter. A fuel supply pipe with a diameter of 10 mm and walls 1 mm thick will be inserted into it. As can be seen from the diagram, it enters the air pipe and ends at the same time as it. The length of this fuel line and its bend angle depend on the location of the oil tank.

The fuel and air supply pipe assembly is welded to the cover. When installed in the body of the product, it should not rest against the bottom, but not reach 12 cm to it.

Let's start making the plasma bowl. To do this, you will need a thick-walled pipe (4 mm thick) with a diameter of 133 mm. We cut off a 3 cm piece from it. From a steel sheet 2 mm thick, we cut out a round blank with a diameter of 219 mm. We weld the workpiece to the segment and get a bowl.

Actually, the stove is almost ready. All that remains is to collect it. To do this, place a bowl inside the body 7 cm from the bottom. It should now be clearly visible from the viewing window located below. From the window the bowl is set on fire. We place the cover with devices for supplying air and oil in the place provided for it.

The chimney, which will be connected to the corresponding pipe, is made from a pipe 4 mm thick and 114 mm in diameter. The length of the chimney must be at least 4 meters. Its unique feature can be considered its exclusively vertical location. There should be no inclined areas! The outer part of the chimney should be insulated.

Installation and first ignition of the device

If possible, the chimney should be positioned strictly vertically, and its length should be 4 meters or more. The exhaust gas exhaust pipe must be insulated. Otherwise, condensation will form. It is desirable that the stove has a collapsible design, especially for the chimney. This will make it much easier to clean the unit when it becomes clogged with soot.

Both mineral oil and its synthetic analogue can be used as the main energy resource. Do not fill fuel more than half the tank capacity. After pouring the waste, you need to leave the lower chamber damper open for a while - this will allow the fuel to be fully enriched with oxygen.

For ignition, use special fireplace matches or a wooden splinter, which is lowered into a container with fuel through a special hole. After the oil flares up, the hole in the homemade furnace during mining is half blocked. This is necessary to regulate the oxygen supply, which ensures uniform combustion of gases in the furnace of the unit.

General operating principle

If we want to get high-quality heating based on waste, we cannot simply take the oil and set it on fire, as it will smoke and stink. To avoid these unpleasant and hazardous side effects, you need to heat the fuel so that it begins to evaporate.

Volatile substances obtained as a result of heating will burn. This is the basic principle of operation of the heating unit during testing.

Application of perforated tube

To implement this principle, the design of the stove includes two chambers, which are connected to each other by a pipe with holes. Fuel enters the lower chamber through the filler hole, which is heated here. The resulting volatile substances rise up the pipe, becoming saturated with air oxygen through the perforation.

The resulting combustible mixture ignites in the chimney, and its complete combustion occurs in the upper afterburning chamber, separated from the chimney by a special partition. If the process technology is properly followed, virtually no soot or smoke is generated during combustion. But the heat will be enough to warm the room.

Using the plasma bowl

In order to achieve maximum efficiency of the process, you can go a more complicated route. Let us recall that our goal is to separate volatile components from the fuel by heating it. To do this, a metal bowl should be placed in the only chamber of the unit, which must not only be heated, but heated.

Furnace add-ons

When making a drip-type furnace with your own hands, you must remember that it can be supplemented with some elements. This will allow the structure to be used for heating several rooms at once. The stove will have this functionality if it is connected to the heating system. Initially, you need to install a tank for heating water, which must be connected to the system, only after that the return line is connected. Thus, the installation will not only be able to heat rooms, but will also allow heating water and cooking food. A design of this type has many advantages, one of which is its small dimensions, which allow the stove to be dismantled in a short time and then installed in another place. You will definitely need to equip homemade drip-type furnaces with your own hands with a chimney, the height of which should not be less than 4 m. Make sure that the chimney is devoid of horizontal sections. In order to be able to clean the pipe, which will have to be done once a week, you need to equip the element with a system that will allow dismantling.

Read also: Kirchhoff’s second law determines the ratio

Example of calculating furnace dimensions

As mentioned above, fuel consumption is about 1...2 liters per hour. At the same time, the radiated heat is about 11 kW/hour per liter. Thus, the furnace can produce 11...22 kW per hour. To calculate the required volume of the firebox taking into account the burning time, we accept:

volume of the room (garage) – 7x4x2.5=70 cubic meters, area 28 sq.m.;
We believe that for every square meter of a garage-type room, at least 500 W are required (basic 100 W, we enter coefficients for all external walls, non-insulated roof and foundation, large entrance opening, metal structure);
Accordingly, an area of 28 squares requires 14 kW of energy per hour.

By slightly increasing the minimum power of the stove (increasing the draft), we will obtain the required temperature in the room. But fuel consumption will increase to approximately 1.5...1.6 liters per hour. Therefore, for a burning time of at least 6 hours, the volume of the firebox should be 10 liters. This corresponds to 0.001 cubic meters, that is, the container should have a size, for example, 10x10x10 cm. In reality, the volume of the firebox exceeds the required volume of fuel by 1.5...2 times, that is, the dimensions should be 20x10x10 cm or more, this is suitable for a mini stove. Usually they take it with a substantial reserve, that is, 50x30x15 cm. This allows you not to add fuel every time you ignite.

Important: with large firebox sizes, it becomes necessary to extinguish the fire in the furnace during exhaust before the fuel burns out completely. The extinguishing process is shown in the video.

The length of the pipe is 40 cm, respectively, its diameter is 10 cm. The area of the lateral surface of the cylinder is equal to its height multiplied by the circumference of the base (diameter multiplied by the number π), in our case 40x3.14x10 = 1256 cm2. Accordingly, the area of all holes is one tenth of the total - 125.6 cm2. Considering that the area of one hole with a diameter of 10 mm is equal to πx0.52=3.14x0.25=0.78 sq.cm, such a pipe will require 125.6/0.78=160 holes.

Note! The accepted value is the area of the holes 10% of the total area of the side surface of the pipe - conditionally! The number of holes during manufacturing is taken, among other things, from the strength of the product and is usually noticeably less!

Considering that the unfolded cylinder is a 31x40 cm rectangle, and the holes should be placed in a checkerboard pattern, we will have to make 12 vertical rows of 13 or 14 holes each. Marking vertical rows is simple - divide the upper or lower circumference of the base of the pipe into 12 parts in any geometric way and draw vertical drilling lines.

The distance between the rows will be 3.3 cm. Marking the vertical rows is a little more difficult, since in every second row it is necessary to shift the upper (or lower) marking point by half the distance between the holes. Considering that we need to make holes not on the edge of the pipe, we add 1 to the planned number of holes and calculate the step: for 13 holes it will be 40/(13+1)=2.85 cm, for 14 – 40/(14+1) =2.6 cm.

Important: when drilling, the axis of the drill must be directed towards the axis of the pipe!

Operating principle of the device

Household fan heaters are compact devices that can easily be installed in almost any suitable place. To operate the device, you need electricity: both for the fan and for the heating element.

Such devices are often used in apartments, garages, and even for heating workshops, greenhouses and other premises. It all depends on the power of the device.

Any fan heater model has three components:

fan;
a heating element;
frame.

The fan drives a stream of air through the body, the spiral heats this air, and the warm air flows throughout the room.

If you add automatic control elements to the device, you can set an acceptable air temperature. The device will turn on and off without human intervention, which will save energy.

To make a homemade fan heater, a regular household fan, the dimensions of which correspond to the body of the device, is suitable. Sometimes the housing is made based on the size of the fan

When operating the fan heater, you must adhere to safety rules. Do not place any objects or materials directly on the fan heater body or too close to the protective grille.

If the device is equipped with an overheat protection system, it will simply turn off. But if this module was not installed during assembly, the device may overheat, break down, or even catch fire.

A self-made fan heater can be of almost any suitable size and power. As a housing, you can use a piece of asbestos-cement pipe, a metal pipe, a rolled sheet of metal, or even a housing from an old system unit.

Usually, a fan is first selected and a heating coil is made, and then the type of device housing is determined depending on its filling.

The most important point when creating this heating device is safety: fire and electrical.

The heating coil in homemade devices is most often of the open type; it is simply twisted from suitable wire. Direct contact with a heated coil can lead to fires, burns, etc.

To make a fan heater with your own hands, you will need the most common tools, as well as basic knowledge of installing household electrical equipment

Therefore, the spiral must be properly secured inside the case, and the outside of the device must be covered with a reliable grille. The installation of the device's power supply also requires attention.

All contacts must be insulated; the base below is usually made of materials that do not conduct current: rubber, plywood, etc.