How to install an engine from a walk-behind tractor on an ant - Gardener's Diary Agro7group.ru

Ant + lifan 188f

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Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Ant + lifan 188f

Post by Vasilev » Wed Jul 08, 2015 5:12 pm
Meanwhile, I took Ant for repair and installed a Lifan 188f engine (400 cm3, 13 hp)

Would it be interesting to create one on the forum, although I don’t know in which section))?

Yes, does anyone know why the steering wheel chatters at any speed? The bushings seem to be alive, there are no backlashes...

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Wed Jul 08, 2015 11:57 pm
When disassembling the fork, I found a spring inside, as it turned out it was a standard steering damper. And the spring tension knob was missing. I found it in spare parts, I'll check it tomorrow))

ilya38 Super technician Posts: 528 Registered: Mon Oct 24, 2011 8:34 am

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by ilya38 » Thu Jul 09, 2015 4:47 am

In the meantime, I took Ant for repairs and installed a Lifan 188f engine (400 cm3, 13 hp). Would it be interesting to create one on the forum, although I don’t know in which section))?

Of course it’s interesting, instead of a CVT transmission???

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Thu Jul 09, 2015 11:22 am
Without CVT and gearbox. They asked me to drive 30 km per hour. The scooter will be used to transport small loads such as potatoes from the field)

In general, it all started with the fact that a man bought an ant for 6,000, supposedly after capital, and he just needed to install a magneto and connect the electrics.

An autopsy showed that there was nothing to start there; the engine was simply washed.

We decided to install another motor, but the person is very worried about its warranty, so the alterations must be reversible)

To begin with, I went through the gearbox and moved the star to the other side. I sawed off all the excess from the frame to mark the engine.

In the end it's like this:

Intermediate shaft and exhaust manifold:

I moved the reverse to the other side. I made the handle longer:

Secured the tank:

At the moment, due to the lack of the necessary sprockets, the gear ratio is 13:1 (I plan about 9-10), the maximum speed is 21 km/h (without the limiter removed). The traction is good, it would be interesting to ride with the original engine.

Old Man-XO Super Technician Posts: 312 Registered: Sat Apr 04, 2009 6:21 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Old Man-XO » Mon Jul 13, 2015 12:51 pm
It’s right that they didn’t bother with the original engine, it can’t hold a candle to this Chinese. This “Ant” doesn’t need speed, so you can do without a variator, the only thing that wasn’t worth saving on was an electric starter; it would be more convenient with it. My “scotch-mobile” is built exactly on the basis of the rear part of the “ant”; the engine costs 9 l/s. trailer with cabbage 200-250kg. takes it out of the field. I replaced the wheels on my car with “Zhiguli” ones and I advise you to do the same: a wider wheel with a larger diameter goes better and easier on bad roads. I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Mon Jul 13, 2015 4:34 pm
I also initially advised them to buy a motor with an electric starter, but as it turned out, it starts just fine. Almost always without getting off the ant the first time. Yesterday I already managed to burn out the clutch))) I went to test the cross-country ability. I came across an area between a field and a forest with a firebreak... My wheels got into a 20-30 cm rut with solid boulders and I drove for about 100 meters until I realized that the clutch was stinking, and there was nowhere to go I had to drive to a more or less level place. I think it would be difficult even for a tractor there. But the ant still made it home. And this is with a “high-speed” frequency converter (9:1), I’ll change it to 11:1 and I’ll calm down, a speed of ~25 km/h will be enough, I still won’t go on the road...

I temporarily secured the clutch disc from an ant, welding its joint to the machined disc)):

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:19 am
The star on the motor is 15 teeth from an ant. I ground it inside and placed it on a tube with a welded key.

They are sold ready-made for a 428 chain, but it was easier for me to do than to go to the city to look for them.

The chain does not fly off, but now, just in case, I am installing a tensioner-calculator.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Tue Jul 14, 2015 4:45 pm
Well, I hope the last improvements are made.

A damper from a chain tensioner shoe like a Niva and a broken furniture gas elevator. I shortened everything, inserted a spring into the gas elevator, and instead of hinges, a piece of chain)):

I replaced the throttle handle with a bike trigger, otherwise it was due to the rev limiter spring and vibration of the throttle handle at 2800-3300 rpm. the hand gets tired). Of course, it was necessary to immediately make a frame for the engine with dampers... Vibration is annoying only on the gas handle.

Well, I replaced the muffler with a shortened one (minus 200mm) from 2108, the sound became quieter, but not as much as I thought:

Viktor 159 Interested Messages: 32 Registered: Mon Nov 05, 2012 5:44 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Viktor 159 » Sun Jul 26, 2015 2:16 pm

Old Man-XO wrote: It’s right that they didn’t bother with the original engine, it can’t hold a candle to this Chinese. This “Ant” doesn’t need speed, so you can do without a variator, the only thing that wasn’t worth saving on was an electric starter; it would be more convenient with it. My “scotch-mobile” is built exactly on the basis of the rear part of the “ant”; the engine costs 9 l/s. trailer with cabbage 200-250kg. takes it out of the field. I replaced the wheels on my car with “Zhiguli” ones and I advise you to do the same: a wider wheel with a larger diameter goes better and easier on bad roads. I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

“Old Man-XO” can I have some information about the wheels? mail

I’ll tell you how to install wheels without turning if you decide and you don’t need to change the gearbox with Zhiguli wheels it will run faster.

Vasilev Adept Messages: 279 Registered: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:23 pm

Re: Shket-2 or bierkisten in Russian

Post by Vasilev » Sun Jul 26, 2015 3:35 pm
By the way, the ant has a problem with the clutch. On the roads it’s fine even with a load, but as soon as you drive out into a field with tall grass, the discs overheat and crumble. Gear ratio 12:1. Apparently due to the low speed and poor cooling (because of the tall grass you can’t go fast, you can’t see what’s ahead). I've already replaced 2 sets. Most likely, the gearbox with clutch will be removed and sold, and in its place I will put a homemade centrifugal dry one or buy a ready-made one from a technomaster, maybe even with a two-stage gearbox.

Making a homemade walk-behind tractor from a motorcycle engine

For successful operation of the walk-behind tractor, a multi-stage kinematic transmission scheme was developed, which increases the additional ratio, as well as traction and torque. Together with the adapter gearbox, the kinematic diagram includes a main gearbox. When a gearbox is combined with a wheelset and main gear, a highly efficient propulsion unit is obtained.

A special mechanism tensions the drive chains. It is attached with pins to the sliders, which are made of steel angle. The latter are also capable of moving by tightening or loosening the drive chain. For this purpose, grooves are provided in the sliders and there are two adjusting screws and M10 mounting bolts.

The most labor-intensive design is the main gearbox. It is made from pre-prepared steel plates (10 mm). Reinforcement discs are placed where the bearings are installed. The welds are continuous to prevent oil leakage. A bracket-bracket is welded to the rear wall of the gearbox, allowing you to attach a cargo trolley or trailed agricultural implement. If you use a cargo trolley, the walk-behind tractor becomes a mini tractor.

A steel plate (5 mm) is used to make the gearbox cover. It is attached to the body with M6 screws. Spur gears and shafts are taken from agricultural machinery. It must be remembered that the purpose of the intermediate shaft is power take-off, so it is better to make new shafts than to use old ones. The differential of the main gearbox on the walk-behind tractor was part of a decommissioned electric car.

Locking the wheels of a walk-behind tractor with a motorcycle engine

Wheel locking is a necessary technical solution for a walk-behind tractor, from a design point of view. On the right axle shaft, where the spline end is, a cylindrical neck is machined, which should be slightly deeper than the spline groove. A threaded hole is made at the opposite end of the axle shaft.

When the M12 adjusting screw rotates, the axle shaft is displaced due to the action of the coil spring. Further inside the differential, the axle shaft moves away from engagement with the “native” gear and engages with the adjacent one, thereby blocking the wheels.

The impellers of the walk-behind tractor are made from the wheels of a decommissioned electric car. For each disk, 16 grooves are cut in the rim, and steel plates are welded in, which will serve as the basis for the lugs. After that, jumpers are welded to them, and the rims of plow wheels are obtained.

Plow for walk-behind tractor

The unit that regulates the entry of the plow into the soil is very effectively made. It consists of a welded U-shaped body, with installation and limiting protrusions. The heel of the plow's hailstone is inserted into them, which is capable of rotating in a vertical plane using a bushing-axial hinge. The required angle of rotation is set by an M16 pin. The beam channel is welded to the rotary heel. Thanks to a slight turn to the side where the soil falls off from the plow, correct installation of the latter becomes possible.

The cutting knife is also attached to the beam. In order to install it at the desired angle to the soil and to the required value, a standard clamp with a cover plate and two M12 bolts with nuts are used. In front of the walk-behind tractor, an auxiliary wheel is placed on a V-shaped bracket. Its purpose is to ensure ease during transportation, or when moving the walk-behind tractor backwards.

The walk-behind tractor is controlled by two rods from the walk-behind mower with handles. The reverse and speed switch knobs are also used for this.

The productivity of the walk-behind tractor is three to five hundred square meters of land per hour. Ordinary soil can be plowed in second gear. For heavy soils, work on the first one.

see also

Comments 36

Hello, tell me how the Bright engine has proven itself? I want to install a similar one on a homemade product, but I haven’t found any information on it on the Internet.

Has it become quiet (in terms of noise) and economical? But it’s a cool idea to convert both two-wheeled electrons and tourists

The noise is probably the same, it all depends on the muffler, mine is homemade. But the exhaust sound is more pleasant, you can immediately hear that the powerful engine is working, reminiscent of powerful Japanese motorcycles.

Thank you very much for your experience... it will be very useful to me)))

I installed 125 cc 4-stroke on my ant, I had to assemble the gearbox in a mirror image so that the star would be on the other side, gear shifting under the original foot, a home-made exhaust for it, now you can quietly sneak up on a person on an ant and you can’t hear him, it starts with just a push and I don’t bother with spark plugs, I only need Akum to start from the button, it works without Akum,

( 1 rating, average 4 out of 5 )

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Tags: How to make a walk-behind tractor from an ant, video

Characteristics of the Ant scooter

The scooter is distinguished by high maneuverability and maneuverability, as well as small dimensions. In the garage it will take up as much space as a heavy motorcycle with a sidecar. The Soviet scooter "Ant", which is still popular, has the following technical characteristics:

• Length – 2.68 m.
• Width – 1.25 m.
• Height – 1.07 m.
• Dry weight – 240 kg.
• Load capacity – 250 kg.
• Speed ​​– about 30 km/h.
• Gasoline engine, two-stroke, 11 hp.
• 4-speed gearbox + reverse.
• Drum brakes with mechanical drive on each wheel.

Among fans of this brand, there is an opinion that the scooter is not inferior in performance properties to its Western counterparts.

Among the advantages of a moped it is worth noting:

• Small turning radius – 3.5 m.
• The lightness of the Ant scooter; motorcycles significantly predominate in weight.
• Low cost - only used devices are available on the market.

There are also disadvantages:

• There are a lot of used equipment on the market.
• The engine has high fuel consumption - from 8 liters. per 100 km. But more often this figure is closer to 10 - 11 liters. per 100 km. due to increased wear.
• Frequent breakdowns due to low reliability, especially of the engine.

Ant owners have the most questions about the engine. After all, I want to moderate my appetite for fuel consumption.

Vehicle Upgrades

If your old bicycle, scooter or motorcycle breaks down, you should not sell the equipment for scrap. There is also no need to rush into buying a new motor. It can be replaced with a power unit from a light motor cultivator. There is only one restriction: such a car cannot be driven on public roads. But the Ant scooter with a walk-behind tractor engine can be used in the country for trips to a field or river. 5-6 hp engine quite enough to accelerate the moped to a speed of 50-60 km/h. Before installing the engine on a bicycle, it is necessary to install reinforced wheels on this vehicle that can withstand a weight of up to 100 kg.

In order to assemble a scooter with a walk-behind tractor engine, you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine;
• grinder with metal discs;
• electric drill;
• wrench;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• level;
• hammer;
• dye.

In order to install the power unit on the Ant, you will need to create a frame for it.

This is done in the following sequence:

1. Drawings are drawn up, precise calculations of the frame configuration and attachment points are made. It is recommended to check the calculations on soft aluminum strips.
2. The mounting bracket is welded. It is treated with anti-corrosion agents and holes are drilled for the bolts.
3. The engine is carefully placed on the bracket and secured with bolts. The installation accuracy is checked and the position is adjusted.
4. The motor is connected to the vehicle's chassis using a belt or chain. Gear shift cables and control levers are secured.
5. Checking the functionality of the vehicle. The created homemade product needs to be run in so that all the parts get used to each other. You need to spend 6-8 hours on this with the engine running at medium speed.

If you have experience in handling household tools and knowledge in electrical engineering, you can assemble an electric excavator with your own hands. This will require channels, hinges, cables and a working electric motor. The bucket is made of sheet steel, which can be purchased inexpensively at scrap metal collection points.

Materials used:

1. motor scooter ant produced in 1981.
2. Lifan 11 l/s petrol engine.
3. belt.
4. VAZ video.
5. shaft.
6. pulley 2 pcs.
7. plate 10 mm.

I started installing the new engine by dismantling the old engine and then washing, cleaning and reassembling it, so in the future I planned to use it as a gearbox for the new engine.

This is the condition the scooter was in before the repair.

Dismantling the old engine.

A new internal combustion engine was purchased.

Next, I tried on the new engine in place of the original one, since it was larger in size and had to cut off the tubes on which the seat and trim are installed.

To connect the engine and gearbox, I decided to use a belt drive. To do this, I bought 2 identical pulleys from a walk-behind tractor, but with the original mounting diameter of 25 mm for the internal combustion engine and 19 mm for the gearbox shaft, which I ordered from a turner. Instead of a crankshaft to reduce vibration, because cutting the connecting rod will upset the balancing of the crankshaft, and this is not a buzz. All dimensions were removed from the crankshaft with only the change to the pulley.

While I was waiting for a new shaft, I went through the gearbox and stuck it on the frame, twisting the old engine mounts and welding them in a new place, the most convenient thing is that with this arrangement of the new engine, its rotation coincides with the rotation of the original engine, which means there is no need to worry about the gearbox, turning it over and move it to the other side, etc. I placed the gearbox mount in the middle of the supporting frame pipe, aligning them exactly vertically and at a distance from the corresponding gearbox mounts, simply welding them.

Next, a piece of plywood (template) was cut out, which I used to cut a 10 mm slab from the slab for mounting the internal combustion engine.

Using a high-precision rack, the internal combustion engine was aligned along the pulleys, holes were drilled in the plate and the engine was secured and a tension ex was installed (later it was replaced with a VAZ roller because it has sides that prevent the belt from slipping).

I bought a longer clutch cable and carried out the first “test drive” which showed that this system would exist. I began a complete disassembly of this scooter with replacement of bearings and much more for subsequent cleaning of dirt and old paint and subsequent painting and assembly.

To summarize: the engine power is enough for the eyes. The gear ratio of the internal combustion engine and gearbox is 1:1. The maximum speed is 45-50 km/h, which is quite enough on rural roads.

The process of replacing the internal combustion engine on an Ant scooter can also be seen in this video:

Homemade author: Alexey Kochnev.

How to make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

The work began with the Ant, or rather the engine from a T-200 scooter. First, let's sort it out. Then we make the frame - we weld an iron sheet 4 mm thick with pipes 4 cm in diameter. The frame is rigidly attached to the engine with three supports.

The next stage of assembly was the installation of a carburetor, magneto, air filter, and muffler. In order to protect the engine from overheating, we had to come up with a cover on top for forced cooling.

The chain drive was made to be driven from the engine to shafts with flanges (they came from a conventional combine). The important point is that the rotation speed of the shafts can be excellent with the correct selection of gears, but you still need to carefully calculate the size of the lower crankcase on the frame. If you get carried away by one frequency, the frame will simply go on top and not reach the ground. Gear ratio: motor-gearbox 4:1, in gearbox 2.5:1

Everything inside should be lubricated with oil - drain and fill hatches are made for this.

The steering wheel is an ordinary metal pipe (to adjust the height, you can take a telescopic pipe from an old vacuum cleaner). The unit operates in first gear, although there are already three gearboxes. The carburetor damper is controlled manually. There is a wheel in front of the walk-behind tractor; its installation determines how deep the soil needs to be plowed, and it is not particularly difficult to control. The weight of the structure turned out to be decent - a little less than 90 kg.

I made the attachments from a corner and pipes; they are fixed on the shaft with a key in a groove, so that there is no axial movement, we clamp them with a bolt. Capture width -1m. 20cm.

Based on the test results, it turned out that the engine adequately withstands passage through virgin soil, you can plow a field with a shovel bayonet, passing through the field 2-3 times; on previously processed soil, a second pass is not required. Due to its heavy weight, it is not particularly agile, but it works great in a garden where there are no bushes. When a homemade walk-behind tractor needs to be moved, I insert wheels that are secured with through bolts.

For the same unit, I planned to make a special body stand for transportation in the back; I also plan to reduce the size of the wheels and make plows, a hiller and a potato digger.

How to Connect an Ant Engine and a Motoblock Engine

Nowadays, the development of agricultural machinery has reached its best development. It’s hard to imagine a modern farmer without a cultivator or walk-behind tractor.

For convenient and comfortable use of the walk-behind tractor, it is made from an old Ant scooter. With such equipment it will be comfortable to move around the cultivated area, transport harvested crops, humus, agricultural tools, even firewood, garbage and everything else.

Branded walk-behind tractor Ant

First of all, you need to find an old scooter and decide what size areas will be processed. This affects the power of the walk-behind tractor motor. The Ant scooter with an engine from a walk-behind tractor is converted into a real walk-behind tractor according to the standard classical scheme:

1. Frame.
2. Engine.
3. Chassis based on 2 wheels.

Secondary parts are attached to the vehicle walk-behind tractor which of course will be very necessary for further use of the device:

Following from the above, the necessary elements for the production of a walk-behind tractor are a frame, engine, wheels, steering wheel, seat and electrical equipment.

The elements of the walk-behind tractor are placed on the frame for our client. The frame design consists of two spars, which are made of an inch and a quarter metal pipe. The front and rear ends of the side members are bent upward, the rear ends need to be bent towards each other and later connected by welding. At the control control production stage, the Izh bike and its spare parts are used.

Homemade walk-behind tractor with a motor from Ant

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The control structure from the bike is welded to the rear ends of the side members. To tension the chain of the first stage of the box, you need to connect the side members lengthwise with several cross members. The platform for the battery and other parts also serve as cross members. The gearbox housing, which is part of the frame assembly, in addition to its own functions, also functions as a rack between the chassis and the power unit. For transporting cargo with a trailer, you can hook up a two-axle cart to one of the rear parts of the crankcase.

Tractor from a walk-behind tractor

Few people will like the process of walking around the field for many hours behind the machine. It is much easier to mow the grass, plow or hill up the soil while sitting on a comfortable chair attached to a trailed cart. There are many branded adapters, trailers and carts available at retail outlets. But they have a considerable cost, which many cannot afford. You can make a mini-tractor from a Neva walk-behind tractor almost free of charge, using the tools and materials that you have at hand.

The following devices and materials are needed:

• differential from a passenger car;
• wheels from a small car;
• sprockets and chains from a motorcycle;
• hexagonal solid steel profile;
• steel corners 50 mm;
• tin for making wings.

The first difficulty that arises when making a homemade tractor with your own hands is a high center of gravity. It is impossible to lower it for purely technical reasons. The only way to increase the stability of a tractor is to expand its wheelbase. For this, a hexagonal profile is used, which is attached to the hubs with cotter pins. When the track expands to 120 cm, the walk-behind tractor will gain normal stability. Installing a differential will allow the unit to corner easily.

The mini-tractor is assembled in the following sequence:

1. Welding the frame of the trailer part. Attaching the drawbar to the flange, making holes in it for the bolts (the connection must be made collapsible in order to be able to transport the walk-behind tractor in the trunk or trailer).
2. Manufacturing of chassis. Wheels are installed on the trolley. To make all-wheel drive on both axles, sprockets are welded onto the axle shaft, and a tensioning mechanism and chains are installed.
3. Assembly of body and seat. If necessary, a canopy is installed over the driver. The controls are being configured and adjusted.
4. Electrification of the created machine. A tractor generator or battery is used as an energy source. For ease of driving, it is advisable to install 2 headlights - front and rear (for reversing).

Dynastarter

However, it is not only the engine that can make a motorcyclist clearly see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is a problem with the dynastarter . The engineers of the Tula plant installed it in Muravya, instead of a conventional alternating current generator.

Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the instrument panel while the moped is running, it means you are running out of charge. This happens because the generator is not producing alternating current. To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly in the dynastarter. There may be three main causes of problems:

• difficulty in rotor operation (dirt getting into the collector or dust accumulation);
• freezing or wear of brushes;
• violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.

Since in most cases the operation of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped operating book. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate the rubbing parts, and under no circumstances throw away the parts.

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source

Scooter with a walk-behind tractor engine

At the production stage of such a unit, a two-stroke internal combustion engine from the Ant scooter is used. Such an engine has forced air cooling and this situation is an indisputable advantage at low speeds to avoid overheating.

The engine is interlocked with a four-speed gearbox. To reduce the cost of the unit and reduce the size of the walk-behind tractor, a muffler is made at home, using parts from an industrial muffler from a motor scooter. The exhaust tract is placed to the side, and the muffler itself is inserted into the exhaust cylinder.

The engine is started using a kickstarter; the speeds are switched using a lever located on the box with sectors. It is necessary to lengthen the gear shaft by 170 mm in order to integrate an overrunning clutch. The driven sprocket is mounted at the end of the left shaft. Due to the rotation of the shaft, the coupling interacts with the roller and the roller is set in motion.

How to Install an Engine from a Motoblock to an Ant

Branded and homemade walk-behind tractor "Ant"

Today, the Motoblock "Ant" can be a pretty serious builder for the brand. With its help, you can perform various agricultural work on the site, avoiding long and exhausting manual labor. At the same time, its weight is less than 100 kg, which allows the device to be transported in the trunk of a car. Its dimensions are quite compact, do not require special storage conditions, and can be easily placed both in a utility room and in a residential building in a high-rise building in the city. However, since the price for it starts at 25 thousand rubles, it makes obvious sense to make such a walk-behind tractor with your own hands from an old scooter. Especially popular are homemade walk-behind tractors with the engine and gearbox from the Ant

", which in its characteristics is close to similar parts of the installation kit.

Ant with a motor from a 420 cc walk-behind tractor.

Questions can only be asked after registration. Please login or register.

Hello, friends. I decided to install a Weima WM190FE-S engine on the ant scooter. 16 hp, with electric starter, volume 450 cc. This is what happened. I am very glad.

Can you provide more details and a video if possible?

Can you provide more details and a video if possible?

What exactly are you interested in?

The original engine is a chain drive on the right from the engine to the gearbox. Here on the left of the engine, and then? How is the clutch implemented? Gearbox like or 1st gear?

The original engine is a chain drive on the right from the engine to the gearbox. Here on the left of the engine, and then? How is the clutch implemented? Gearbox like or 1st gear?

Photos in about a week, video more difficult. The clutch is centrifugal (activated by an increase in engine speed), (photo No. 1). Naturally there is only one transmission. The transmission of torque from the engine to the gearbox will be according to this principle (photo No. 2), (photo from the net, no offense to the author).

The original engine is a chain drive on the right from the engine to the gearbox.

The gearbox provides the ability to rotate the drive on the left side. On motorized wheelchairs, for example, there is the same gearbox and the drive is on the left side. There is a plug on the opposite side of the housing.

The gearbox provides the ability to rotate the drive on the left side. On motorized wheelchairs, for example, there is the same gearbox and the drive is on the left side. There is a plug on the opposite side of the housing.

I know. Thanks for the info.

chains are bullshit, that's how it should be.

The deeper the rut, the greater the chance that you are on the highway.

chains are bullshit, that's how it should be.

The chains are quite suitable for my purposes. I wonder why you think so?

chains are bullshit, that's how it should be.

The chains are quite suitable for my purposes. I wonder why you think so?

dust, dirt, water, stretched, torn. The cardan doesn’t care and will be more reliable.

The deeper the rut, the greater the chance that you are on the highway.

Hi all. Please tell me how to regulate idle speed on such an engine?

Please tell me how to regulate idle speed on such an engine?

The black plastic screw is the one that is on the gas valve; to adjust it you will have to climb from the side of the body; it looks towards the valve cover.

The black plastic screw is the one that is on the gas valve; to adjust it you will have to climb from the side of the body; it looks towards the valve cover.

Hello guys! Are there anyone here who are already using ants with diviguns from a walk-behind tractor? I'm going to redo it too. And the question is: what to do with the cops? Will they fall behind? I have motoras without docks

And the question is: what to do with the cops? Will they fall behind? I have motoras without docks

Well, since he already has no docks. What difference does it make what kind of internal combustion engine? Whether they lag behind or not is at their discretion. They wave their hand, it means they are lucky.

And the question is: what to do with the cops? Will they fall behind? I have motoras without docks

Well, since he already has no docks. What difference does it make what kind of internal combustion engine? Whether they lag behind or not is at their discretion. They wave their hand, it means they are lucky.

And the chassis has docks. In short, I’ll find out at the traffic police and report back.

Finally I managed to realize my idea.

Ant engine

The Ant was equipped with a motor that was different from others produced by the industry of the Soviet Union. Innovations in its design fueled interest in technology among then ordinary people. And now they are warming up restorers and collectors. The differences are as follows:

1. Availability of electric starter.
2. Forced cooling.

The main difference is the presence of an electric starter. This made it possible to start a moped in the same way as a car.

The cooling system fan moves air through the engine casing, removing heat from it. It is worth noting that such a scheme works tolerably.

Multifunctional homemade products from a walk-behind tractor engine

People whose budget is modest and does not allow them to purchase branded canopies and attachments like to come up with various homemade products from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands. In the basic configuration, this equipment has limited capabilities. But even the simplest unit is an internal combustion engine, which can be used as a source of energy for many mobile devices.

On the basis of a walk-behind tractor, you can also assemble stationary installations, such as a water pump, an electric generator and a mulcher. By connecting an electric motor to the unit, you can make a universal machine for processing wood. A homemade sawmill in your yard will be an excellent help on the farm.

Factory installed

It is produced by domestic industry at agricultural machinery enterprises. This is a gasoline engine on a two-wheeled platform, capable of both rotating the wheels of the chassis and working cutters for cultivating the soil. "Ant" is capable of processing hard and virgin soil. In addition to the cutters, you can install a plow or holner. Four-stroke gasoline engine

is 7 horsepower. This allows you to plow the soil to a depth of 30 cm. The fuel tank holds up to 3.6 liters of gasoline, the crankcase volume is 0.6 liters.

The transmission is a belt drive and chain reducer with a cast iron pulley. While forward speeds can be switched, reverse provides only one speed. The engine has a manual starting system. Motoblock can provide plowing widths of up to 80 cm. The steering column can be adjusted both vertically and horizontally. The result is a fairly powerful and user-friendly device. The only drawback can be considered the relatively high cost, which makes most owners of summer cottages and playgrounds prefer to make their own copy. A homemade walk-behind tractor will cost several times less, and the consumer quality of the mechanism is not much different from its assembled counterpart.

Development of the walk-behind tractor into more complex homemade devices

A homemade walk-behind tractor can serve as the basis for various more complex units that can be used not only for soil cultivation. Based on homemade products from the Ant motor scooter, you can make a mini tractor, snow blower, towing vehicle or other mechanized device. Making a tractor from “Ant” is especially popular. To do this, a steel rod made of a channel or beam is attached to the walk-behind tractor frame under the engine. Then a sprung two-wheeled cart is made with a seat on top. The springs can be removed from the same scooter.

Another interesting article: How to choose and make an electric cultivator?

Under the trolley with the seat, the same rod is welded to the frame, which is connected to the walk-behind tractor rod with an overhead coupling with bolted connections. This allows such a tractor from “Ant” to tow quite serious loads. The metal rod will distribute the force across the entire tractor frame. There is every possibility of making a trailer for a walk-behind tractor from Ant. 4 wheels on springs are attached to a frame made of steel beams, and a rectangular platform made of boards or sheet metal with folding sides is mounted on top. On the front side, instead of a tailgate, you can install a driver's seat.

You can make quite a lot of different homemade products from “Ant”. This depends primarily on technical literacy and skills in working with metal and mechanisms. In addition to the old scooter, a variety of parts and mechanisms can be used, otherwise inevitably sent to scrap.

Such home-made devices can radically facilitate a person’s work on a personal plot or summer cottage.

Their main advantage, in addition to their relatively low cost, is that they can be maximally adapted to the specific needs of the owner.

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The three-wheeled ZiD cargo motorcycle with an onboard dump body is designed for delivering various types of cargo over short distances. The LF200ZH-3 trike is economically beneficial not only for private owners and farmers. Such a vehicle is often used by public utilities and large industrial enterprises where prompt transportation of equipment is required.

The ZiD Lifan cargo tricycle is equally practical in rural areas and in urban environments. Like the Soviet motor scooter Ant, a modern motorcycle with a body is convenient to use for moving on paved roads, for example, welding or any other equipment for repair, and for residents of villages and small towns it is simply an irreplaceable and faithful assistant.

The ZID LF200ZH-3 model is equipped with a Chinese Lifan 163 FML-2 engine with a maximum power of 17.5 hp. or 12.5 kW. The volume of one cylinder located vertically is 200 cm³. Fuel is supplied through a Sheng Wey carburetor. The four-stroke gasoline engine starts with an electric or kick starter, has an air cooling system and runs on AI-92 gasoline.

The five-speed manual gearbox is located in the same block with the power unit, and the multi-plate clutch is in an oil bath. The driver shifts gears with his foot, and the clutch control is located on the steering wheel. The motor transmission is gear. For efficient maneuvering in confined spaces, reverse gear is provided.

The front suspension is made in the form of a telescopic fork with two spring-hydraulic shock absorbers, the rear suspension is a spring suspension in which hydraulic shock absorbers are not used. The front and rear wheel discs use drum-type brake mechanisms with a mechanical foot drive. The emergency and parking brakes are operated by a mechanical hand drive.

A spacious metal dump truck body with three folding sides makes it convenient to load/unload. The volume of the cargo compartment has been increased due to the so-called sheathing of the front and side sides. For the comfort and safety of the driver, a soft backrest is attached to the outer side of the front side, and for an overview of what is happening behind, ZID Lifan cargo tricycles are equipped with rear-view mirrors.

If you need an economical and inexpensive, compact and “fast” transport for quick delivery of equipment and cargo over short distances, then it is best to buy a ZiD Lifan cargo tricycle or a similar trike with a body. Low price, decent technical characteristics, speed and mobility are the main advantages that cargo motorcycles and scooters have.

29.09.2019

Electrical equipment

How to disassemble and reassemble the engine of the Ant scooter?

The motor design is simple. But even this does not protect it from breakdowns, which are often associated with age. You shouldn’t just disassemble the engine, but if the following symptoms appear, you should take up the tools:

• Startup problems.
• Oil leak.
• Lack of traction.
• Increased background noise.
• The winding lever does not return to its place.

Possible breakdowns:

• Worn seals.
• Poor quality assembly after previous repair.
• CPG failure.
• Worn bearings.
• The return spring in the kickstarter has broken.

Note! Before overhauling the power plant, it is not necessary to wash it. Just drain the oil and remove it from the frame.

Cylinder block

After unscrewing several bolts, you need to remove the cylinder head. Pay attention to the worn cylinder head gasket. Opposite the outlet window, you should probe the so-called excavation. If a characteristic wave or step is felt, then such a cylinder needs to be changed or bored.

Burnout occurs where the piston rings contact the cylinder. Where they work, the metal wears out, so a transition is formed at the border of the two zones, which reflects the degree of wear.

The piston should be examined for wear. Some “Kulibins” manage to refine it with sandpaper.

Clutch

1. Removing the clutch cover and kickstarter shaft. Pay attention to the return spring - it often breaks and the kickstarter does not return to its place. Also at this point you can check the timing chain tension.
2. Clutch disassembly. To do this, you will need to unscrew the nuts and remove the pressure plate from the basket.
3. The lock washer must be bent and a stick must be inserted under the tooth of the main gear sprocket. Please note that the threads on the crankshaft journal nut are right-handed. The nut needs to be unscrewed.
4. There will be another lock washer that needs to be straightened. We take a puller and fix the clutch drum. The clutch nut has a left-hand thread.
5. The disc and drum are removed, as well as the clutch basket is removed from the shaft along with the chain and drive sprocket.

Dinostarter

Remove the following elements:

1. Cooling casing.
2. Ignition chopper cam, but provided that the power plant was not converted to a magneto. In this case, it is necessary to fix the dyno starter rotor. This can be done using the cooling fan or by fixing the crankshaft with improvised means.
3. The rotor is dismantled using a puller - standard or homemade.

As a result, the rotor was removed.

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Assembly

Insert the retaining ring into the piston boss. The ring should fit into the boss tightly and moderately around the entire circumference

• If the ring is not seated tightly, straighten it or replace it with a new one.

We heat the piston with a technical hair dryer and insert the piston pin into the boss so that it slightly extends inside the piston

Lubricate the upper connecting rod bushing with some engine oil. We turn the piston with the arrow towards ejection (on Jupiters - towards inlet). We put the piston on the connecting rod, insert the extended pin into the hole in the upper head, drive the pin in and secure it with the second lock ring

We install the gasket and, from some clean container, bury the engine oil into the bearing of the lower head of the connecting rod and the oil channels of the main bearings

Lubricate the piston well with oil, install the rings and tighten them with a clamp. We make a clamp from tin: cut out a strip of suitable width, use it to make a clamp and voila!

After the rings go into the cylinder, remove the clamp and push the cylinder all the way

After installing the cylinder, hold it with your hand and try to turn the crankshaft:

• If the piston moves in the cylinder without any crunching or jamming, install a gasket and screw on the cylinder head
• If the piston moves tightly with a crunching sound, or sticks, remove the cylinder and see what you did wrong

Sources:

https://scooter-mania.ru/ustanovka-kikstartera-na-dvigatel-motorolera-muravej/ https://alisa-motors.ru/ustanovka-porshnevoj-na-sovetskie-motocikly-izh-muravej-vosxod/

The feasibility of installing a magneto

It’s none of my business, of course, but I have an extremely negative attitude towards this kind of collective farm tuning. Moreover, the magneto does not solve the problem with the reliability of the standard ignition system, but only replaces it with another problem. And this, in my opinion, is complete stupidity: convert the engine to a magneto, and then suffer even more with it...

Yes, the dyno starter is not an ideal device. Which also needs to be constantly monitored and, if necessary, serviced. So what? Well, I cleaned the collector and breaker contacts at the beginning of the season and that’s it. Are there fewer problems with the magneto? More than a hundred times!

1. Firstly, due to the fact that the rubber coupling constantly breaks, the ignition timing is lost, and this entails detonation, loss of power, overheating and increased fuel consumption.
2. Secondly, after installing the magneto, they usually stop monitoring the dyno starter, deprive it of its battery, and it eventually dies completely... Accordingly, the on-board network of the scooter is deprived of its power source. And this means that “there is no light - there will be no cinema”...
3. Thirdly, due to the fact that this whole alteration is a complete collective farm - the axes in which the magneto rotor and the dynostarter rotate diverge within significant limits. And this leads to the fact that the parts of these two devices begin to work with a large axial misalignment relative to each other, which is why the magneto’s output shaft of the rotor constantly breaks off and its support bearings fall apart.
4. Fourthly, the magneto was not initially designed for long-term operation, much less to work with such a horse-like misalignment along the axes, which leads to an increased radial load on the rotor, which is not typical for a magneto.
5. Fourthly, a magneto is very expensive - plus you need to buy a spacer and a coupling.

Ignition installation

Secondly, starting a cold or warm engine. Thirdly, the scooter's headlights are supplied with the current needed at night, and the brake lights and turns are also supplied with electricity.

All you need is very thin paper, a narrow rod and a set of keys.

When the paper is released when the piston is lowered to the depth of the mark made, the ignition will be set correctly.

Those who are already tired of suffering with the dynamo starter will understand me. Of course, for this you need to have a special tester, thanks to which you can always determine the malfunction of a particular mounting unit or part.

Electrical circuit of an ant cargo scooter in detail

We recommend reading:. Firstly, the combustible mixture in the engine cylinder is ignited, due to which the piston moves and then rotational motion is transmitted to the flywheel. Obe3obPasha One comment Electrical connection diagrams are usually quite complex and require special skills in order to understand the wires and the purpose of a particular element.

Motor "Green Ant" - a unique Russian development

Designers from Russia invented a motor, the distinctive feature of which was the absence of a crankshaft in the design.

A distinctive feature of the development is a new method for converting the translational energy of the pistons into rotational energy. Theoretically, such a motor should operate at lower speeds, developing a greater degree of torque, and being one third more economical than an internal combustion engine.

Work in theory. The design of the device, designed to take power from a power plant in the form of an internal combustion engine, does not allow violation of the existing laws of nature and the basic principles of science. During the implementation of the project, a completely new design of the internal combustion engine was implemented, which did not change the principles of its operation and did not affect the fundamentals of the theory of internal combustion engines. The difference will be in the method of transmitting force during operation, and it lies in physical laws, and not in motor theory.

Using the existing motor theory, the processes that occur in inertial machines, which are almost all existing design options, are determined. The fact is that the direction of the inertia forces in the structure in almost all places is the same as the direction in which the force is applied for work, as a result of which all actions will be converted into rotation in one direction. This makes it fair to indicate in theoretical information about the motor the fact that almost all the efficiency of the device is concentrated in the cylinder, and represents the quality of the work process, but its efficiency does not significantly depend on the design option used. But the application of such a theory is not possible for inertia-free machines.

It is no secret that the basis for the operation of any type of motor is the basic physical laws, which makes it possible to explain the difference using the law of the addition of forces. The reason that the motor can develop high torque from the very beginning of operation is the fact that the electromagnetic field seems to “pull” the rotor along with it, without the formation of inertial forces. The result is the formation of a direct transmission, like a gearbox. The question arises: why can’t a conventional internal combustion engine produce the same level of torque? The answer is that the piston has to push the crankshaft, which causes the formation of inertial forces acting in the same direction. It is precisely the presence of its own inertial forces in the mechanism for performing work that becomes the reason for the absorption of most of the available effort. In other words, the work is transferred to the execution mechanism, which then moves independently.

The process of power distribution. For a crank mechanism, two forces participate in the process of work - the work process and the inertia process. Due to the fact that the action of these forces is carried out in the same direction, then, according to the law of the addition of forces in the same direction, with different points of application, only one of them can perform useful work. The higher the engine rotation speed, the greater the inertial force of the entire structure will become, while the value of the work force remains unchanged. Despite the increase in the number of cycles, the efficiency of the motor remains at the same level. Increasing the load on the output shaft will have no effect other than increasing fuel consumption.

The second evidence can be the ignition advance used in most engines. In its absence, there is a sharp decline in all indicators. This is quite simple to explain - such a force is transferred to the piston, which escapes on its own due to the rotation of the crankshaft. An unsupported scheme is formed, whereas in order to perform useful work it is necessary to have at least one point of support. The type of power take-off from the internal combustion engine proposed by the developers makes it possible to eliminate inertial forces. To do this, it is necessary to convert the working force of the piston into rotation in two opposite directions, which will cause mutual destruction of the emerging inertial forces.

Bottom line. The method of operation of this mechanism can be compared to the use of a children's toy “spinning top”, where there is a screw rod with a wooden handle, when pressed, the mechanism unwinds. The first pressing must be performed with great force, after which it is required to a lesser extent, but with constant work performed by the “handle”, the mechanism will maintain a constant rotation speed.

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How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with an ant gearbox

A two-stage chain gearbox is designed to reduce the rotation speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit of the walk-behind tractor to the wheels or cutters.

Chain gear drawing

1 - body made of channel No. 20); 2 - cover made of Art. sheet s5); 3 — gasket made of oil and petrol resistant technical plate) 4 — second stage drive sprocket (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5-key; 6 — bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 — nut M22x1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - oil seal; 11 - spacer bushing with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 — M8 screw with spring washer (30 pcs.);

14 — driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 — bearing housing; 17 — sealing sleeve; 18 — left axle shaft; 19-oil drain plug (M10 screw); 20 - bottom of the body from Art. sheet s4); 21 — oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22,23 — oil seals (2 pieces each); 24 — right axle shaft; 25 — M6 fixing screws (8 pcs.); 26 — M8 bolt; 27 - chain t = 19.05; 28 — driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 — spacer sleeve

The first stage of the gearbox includes two sprockets with 17 and 57 teeth, respectively, with a pitch of 12.75 mm. The drive sprocket with 17 teeth sits on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket sits on the outer flange of the second stage input shaft.

The second stage of the gearbox is reinforced and has a drive sprocket of 11 teeth and a driven sprocket of 25 teeth, a tooth pitch of 19.05 mm. Since during the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the second stage is located close to the cultivated soil, it is protected from dust by a closed crankcase, which is directly connected by welding to the cross members, and the crankcase side members are connected by welding through steel spacers.

A strut is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves that are reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower parts, the walls of the channels have the shape of a semicircle; instead of cut shelves, a bottom is welded from a 4 mm steel sheet, which is curved along the walls of the channels in the shape of a semi-cylinder. The top of the crankcase is closed with a cover with a gasket made of oil- and petrol-resistant technical plate.

Two coaxial holes d = 100 mm were made in both walls for bearing housings. Around each of them there are six other threaded holes with M8 threads, the purpose of which is to fasten the housings to the crankcase. The lower axle shaft bearings have normal housings, while the upper shaft bearings have eccentric housings. By rotating them around their axis by at least 15°, the tension of the chain of the second stage of the gearbox is adjusted in steps.

The shaft of the second stage of the gearbox is mounted in two ball bearings 206. By means of two spacers, the drive sprocket is fixed exactly in the middle between the inner walls of the crankcase and connected to the shaft by means of a feather key. On the centering boss of the right axle shaft sits a large driven sprocket, secured with six M8 bolts between the opposing flanges of the axle shafts. The lower part of the large driven sprocket and part of the chain are constantly immersed in oil.

When the walk-behind tractor engine is running, the moving chain transfers oil to the upper part of the crankcase - thus lubrication of the rubbing parts of the second stage is organized. To prevent oil leakage, oil seals are provided in the bearing housings. A rigid flange connection of the axle shafts forms a single shaft mounted in two 308 ball bearings.

Frame

Creating a case is one of the difficult stages. Suitable materials for this are fiberglass or fiberglass. Sheet metal can also be used, but an artificial body kit will weigh less.

First, a “blank” of the body is cut out of pieces of foam plastic, for which you will need to develop a preliminary drawing. Fiberglass is applied to the prepared form. There will be several layers, so metal fasteners are installed between them for subsequent fixation of the new body kit to the frame. To ensure that each layer is properly bonded to each other, they are additionally coated with epoxy resin. The body needs to be thoroughly dried, and then primed and painted.

After installing all components and connecting the systems, you need to check the functionality and run the vehicle, gradually increasing the load.

The Ant scooter today, unfortunately, has already been discontinued from production and sales by the manufacturer. However, it is still possible to purchase a used model.

Such scooters have already won a lot of fans due to their characteristics. More carrying capacity compared to motorcycles, affordable cost, ease of use - all this makes the model a priority among other motorcycles.

Spare parts price

Despite the fact that the production of the device stopped long ago, you can still find new spare parts for it that are produced by the industry. Some parts are imported, some come assembled. Supplied in sets:

• Clutch discs.
• Gaskets for power plant and gearbox.
• Nuts.
• Pipes.
• Levers.

The necessary parts can be found on the Internet using store catalogs. Prices for spare parts for the Ant scooter are fair. Here are some examples:

• Clutch disc – 400 rub.
• Kickstarter shaft – 1100 rub.
• Front shock absorber – 1600 rub.
• Gearbox seals – 100 RUR.
• Piston – 2500 rub.
• Gearbox – 14,000 rub.
• Wheel hub – 2000 rub.

Judging by the prices, the device is more than cheap to repair. This is an important operational property for people in rural areas.

Making a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

To make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, parts were taken from the V-150 M engine: crankcase, gears, chain sprockets, as well as an additional gearbox shaft. The crankcase must be cut into two halves and the kickstarter, gearshift mechanism and crank chamber removed from it. You need to install a plug at the kickstarter exit point and weld it using argon welding.

We install the bearing axle box of the right running wheel of the walk-behind tractor into the left half of the crankcase. A spare crankcase of the same engine is used as an axle box.

A part of the V-150 M engine crankcase is also used as the left cover, which is supplemented with one part - a duralumin bushing. The bushing is pressed into the crank chamber and has a hole corresponding to the diameter of the engine output shaft shank.

Walk-behind tractor chassis

• 1 – right wheel;
• 2 – left wheel;
• 3 – first gear gear;
• 4 – drive shaft;
• 5- gearbox;
• 6 – drive gear;
• 7 – bushing;
• 8 – locking screw;
• 9 – drive shaft housing;
• 10 – axle box flange;
• 11 – nut and bolt M8;
• 12 – splined bushing;
• 13 – shaft;
• 14 – M14 nuts;
• 15 – washer;
• 16 – oil seal;
• 17,18 – bearings;
• 19 – engine.

Walk-behind tractor drive shaft

• 1,2 – cantilever parts of the shaft (from the secondary shafts of the V-150 M gears);
• 3 – gear (from the first gear gear V-150M);
• 4 – front part of the shaft (bar d22 mm);
• 5 – cut-off collar.

The motor and gearbox are fixed relative to each other using an M10 screw.