DIY folding knife drawings. very simple homemade folding knife

Manufacturing process

To make a folding knife correctly, that is, to eliminate the mistakes of beginners who decide to create such a product with their own hands, you need to work consistently and step by step. Below is the procedure for working with all the components of the design of a folding knife; it does not depend on the type of materials and equipment used, so you need to follow it exactly.

Preparing parts

First of all, the blade is sawed out and brought to an ideal shape, according to the drawing. The handle parts are then produced and sanded using a belt sander or a file and sandpaper. The next step is to drill holes in them to secure the decorative trims.

Knife handle linings can be made at the very end, when all parts are fastened with temporary bolts, the structure is checked for play, flaws are sharpened, and the metal surface is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Observe safety precautions when cutting and grinding parts, wear safety glasses and a respirator. To facilitate the process of making a blade, you can use Soviet detailed drawings and manuals for making folding knives (for example, from Do-It-Yourself magazines).

We align the drawing with the workpiece. We cut out the blade. Then we cut out the handle. We make the necessary holes for fastenings. We grind all the workpieces.

Hardening

Only the blade needs to be hardened; the metal frame of the knife handle does not need this. This procedure will allow the product to hold an edge for a long time, have flexibility, and at the same time be very durable. Since the knife blade is a small metal plate, you do not need a forge to heat it, but a regular gas or kerosene burner will do. A professional approach involves measuring the heating temperature, as well as bringing it to the level required for a particular type of steel. Having the necessary equipment, all the necessary information on the grade of steel used can be found on the Internet or in textbooks - there are special tables that indicate the quenching and tempering temperatures.

At home, you can use your eye, that is, heat the blade of a homemade knife until it turns evenly red, after which you need to dip it in oil, remove it, and let it cool. Waste machine or vegetable waste will do. The second stage of hardening is tempering. It is necessary to relieve stress on the steel so that it is not brittle. To do this, you can use a regular oven, heated to 200-250 degrees Celsius. The blade is placed in it for 1 hour, after which the oven is turned off. The steel should cool slowly, so you can remove it after about 1 hour, when it has cooled to room temperature.

Heating up the steel

Assembly

Assembling the knife is carried out after preliminary grinding of each part with fine sandpaper, as well as polishing the metal parts, preferably with GOI paste. It is necessary to select mounting bolts of the correct diameter for quality reasons, because they support the entire structure of the folding knives. If a pin lock mechanism is used, it is advisable to make the pin itself from titanium or a metal with similar properties. The fully assembled knife must be re-sanded at the attachment points. Decorative overlays are prepared in advance; if necessary, grooves are made on their inside for the heads of the fastening bolts, after which they can be attached with glue. The final processing of the product consists of polishing the metal parts and varnishing the decorative elements, if this has not been done previously.

We select the mounting bolts We check for the presence of backlashes We check the operation of the mechanism

Sharpening

The primary sharpening procedure must be carried out using special equipment to create the desired cross-sectional shape of the blade. The most popular types of sections are: flat-concave wedge, flat-concave wedge, wedge-shaped. The last option is conventionally called double-sided sharpening, and is the easiest to implement, so it can be done even without a sharpening device, using a regular file and a sharpening stone.

Bring the knife to the desired sharpness

Preparing all the details

At this stage, you need to make a hole and cut threads where the screws will be installed in the handle. You also need to warm up the holding lever and bend it to fit it into the handle.

Since ejection of the blade is ensured by a spring, we wind it around the axis of rotation of the blade - after this, it is necessary to cut out a seat for the spring in the PCB on the inside of the handle.

To do this you will need a drilling machine. We attach the spring itself to the blade with one end, and to the handle with the other, having previously drilled holes.

We weld a bolt to the trigger lever - this is the same “handle” that will activate the rotation of the blade. Cut off the excess part of the bolt. Next, you need to install the resulting “handle” into the handle of the knife - you need to carve a round groove for it.

Another spring in the handle supports the lever—for it, a stop is machined and installed, which we attach to pins or nails. With a simplified version of manufacturing - a folding knife, a trigger mechanism is not needed.

Blade hardening

If the blade is made of N690 steel, then its hardening temperature is 1071 degrees Celsius.

Since few people can boast of having an industrial oven, such an operation can be done with a torch “by eye”.

At this temperature, the steel has a yellow glow. Alternatively, you can use a magnet to determine the desired temperature regime - if the workpiece is not attracted to the magnet, then you can stop heating. Cooling is carried out in mineral/vegetable oil. By the way, in addition to the blade, it is also worth hardening the lever.

Blade hardening.

To stabilize the stresses in the metal, we conduct a tempering process - the temperature is 200-300 degrees Celsius, holding time is 1 hour. A regular home oven is suitable for this operation. We leave the blade to cool in a closed heating chamber.

You can check the quality of the result with a file - there will be no scratches on properly hardened and tempered steel. After this, the blade can be ground, polished and sharpened - seal the finished blade with electrical tape.

Assembly

It is necessary to install springs, a lever and a blade into the handle - we connect the halves of the handle with screws. To make the handle smooth, you can “recess” the screws by pre-drilling grooves for the heads.

After this, the handle can be sanded and polished with a special nozzle - the aluminum surface will look impressive.

It is clear that to assemble a simple folding knife, you do not need to mount a spring. Despite all the convenience of switchblade and folding knives, they have one serious drawback - if dirt gets inside the handle, and therefore the mechanism, the tool may fail.

So switchblades and folding knives made by yourself require careful handling - only in this case will they last a long time.

Previous Making knivesHow to make a knife from stone Next Sharpening knivesHolder for sharpening knives with your own hands

Selection of tools and materials

Do-it-yourself folding table
There can be two approaches to this matter - amateurish and serious. Which one is better for? Let's figure it out:

• With an amateurish approach to the matter, there is no particular need to be puzzled by the selection of steel with the necessary characteristics. The material at hand is taken and a knife is made from it. This option is suitable for those who have not yet tried their hand at making knives, and for those who do not have extra money or the desire to bother searching.
• If you take the matter seriously, you need to sift through a certain amount of specialized literature on grades of various alloys, metalworking techniques, as well as on hardening and creating workpieces from good tool steel. Let’s not talk about damask steel here—we’re not going to forge a saber. By the way, not every blacksmith can master this task.

The required set of tools also directly depends on the approach to the matter. Perhaps you will get by with pocket artillery in the form of a file, a hand drill, emery and a hacksaw. But if you work for results, it would be nice to have:

• stationary drilling machine;
• grinder;
• sharpening machine;
• bench vice and a set of clamps.

@wideopenspaces.com

To make a template, you will need paper, a pencil, thick cardboard or hardboard, and for annealing, hardening and tempering - some kind of forge and oven, as well as waste or vegetable (preferably olive) oil.

List of steps and preparation of everything needed

The entire manufacturing process can be divided into several parts for a more complete perception of information:

• selection and preparation of materials with tools;
• template selection;
• choice of steel;
• shaping the workpiece;
• heat treatment;
• knife sharpening;
• making a handle.

Each of these steps is associated with health hazards, so each stage should be approached carefully and thoughtfully, following all safety rules.

So, to create a really high-quality knife, we need a list of such materials (if you have experience in this matter, you can use an alternative):

• steel;
• tree;
• brass rivets;
• gypsum;
• iron sieve;
• gas-burner.

Tools:

1. Metal file.
2. Hacksaw for metal.
3. Hand drill and drill bits for it
4. Permanent marker.
5. Metal scissors.
6. Hammer.
7. Kerner.
8. Long nose pliers.
9. Gloves.
10. Nozzle.
11. Metal or plastic brush.
12. Miter box.
13. Saw on wood.
14. Sandpaper.
15. Clear varnish or stain.

Drawing of a kitchen knife.

What is it and why is it needed

How to make a knife with your own hands: how to make a homemade blade. the best ideas and tips for combining steel for a knife (video + 150 photos)

The drawing provides a complete description of the product, indicating dimensions, shape, and recommended material. The information is reflected in a frame in the lower right corner of the image or in a separate description. You should not ignore the recommendations. Behind them stands many years, and sometimes centuries, of experience of the craftsmen. For example, the design of a switchblade is quite complex, and its implementation will require skills in working with metal and a special set of tools.

An important factor in manufacturing is compliance with the proportions and dimensions of the product - and without a drawing it is almost impossible to achieve accuracy. A photo provides only a visual image of a knife, and making a copy from a photo is not easy, because it is necessary to take into account the features of individual elements, the pairing of straight lines with ovals and curves. You can make your own life-size sketches of knives. The image must be drawn to scale. In this case, during manufacturing it is enough to transfer the lines to the blanks for the blade and handle elements. The tool and processing method are chosen by the home craftsman himself at his discretion, taking into account the available capabilities.

The finished drawing can be downloaded. The file found on the Internet is opened in a graphics editor, the dimensions are checked and printed at a scale of 1:1. Most of the drawings are made in accordance with all the rules of the Unified System of Design Documentation (ESKD). But it is difficult to use some amateur drawings or a sketch of a knife in artistic form without indicating the dimensions. If you don’t have the ability to accurately convey the design features and make a drawing, you need to ask those who do this professionally to make templates for knives.

You can realize your ideas by sketching life-size knives, without relying on a ready-made model. In this case, it is necessary to follow the general rules for drawing up a drawing. For example, design the shape of the blade, handle, based on personal ideas and preferences. You can use your favorite models as a prototype for your own product. By combining individual elements, an original drawing is created.

Transformable models are popular today. But having found, for example, drawings of folding knives, you should be aware of the difficulties of their manufacture, since the desire to independently assemble a complex mechanism will require serious metalworking skills. Appropriate tools and materials are required.

What to pay attention to

If you decide to make your own switchblade knife, finding a decent material, especially a locking mechanism, can bring certain difficulties. For real masters, this problem fades into the background, but beginners will have to work hard. Alternatively, you can use a similar design from another product that has a working mechanism, but has lost its functionality or relevance.

It will not be particularly difficult to prepare a sketch, design, or cut out the handle. With the right approach, the blade can also be sharpened quite quickly. The main working part in the form of a reliable locking and ejection mechanism may require the lion's share of the time spent on making a homemade cutting tool.

Materials for production

DIY folding chair: drawing, materials, manufacturing

Even if you are not planning to make a hunting knife, understanding the materials used for manufacturing will help you out when purchasing a knife. Let's look at what types of steel are used for knives of this type.

• Carbon steel should be designated grade 65 G. It is endowed with the required rigidity, holds an edge excellently, and has high corrosion resistance.
• Another stainless steel that is often used to make affordable hunting knives is 65x13 steel. Suitable for a tourist, however, for a true lover of hunting, who often cuts up solid prey, it is poorly suited, since it instantly loses the sharpness of the blade.
• Steel 95x18 is the optimal solution in terms of price and quality ratio. There is ease of sharpening - sharpening a blade made of 95X18 steel is quite simple. A knife made of this steel can be edited even on an ordinary stone.
• Chrome tungsten steel ХВ5, called diamond steel, or steel ШХ-15 are also excellent for knives, but require constant care because they are subject to rust.
• Tool steel grade R6M5 performed very well. It is used to make pendulum saw blades, and it is not that difficult to get.
• Bulat steels have a rather “floating” quality. In the entire Russian Federation, only a few blacksmiths can produce high-quality damask steel.
• Modern steels made using powder metallurgy methods have the rarest properties that outshine even the famous damask steel. Products made from these metals are usually very expensive.

Many different materials are used to create knife handles, ranging from plastic to mammoth tusks. The optimal material is wood. The wooden handle can be adjusted to any configuration and palm size.

Sequencing

If you are making a knife for the first time, it would be best to follow the sequence described below, then things will go much easier.

The process begins with the blade - it is cut out and brought to full compliance with the layout. Next, parts of the handle are made, they are finalized, and then holes are drilled into them for fastening the linings.

The locking mechanism is made after the main parts of the handle are ready. Then comes the turn of decorative overlays. The blade is sharpened in the final stages after heat treatment. Below I will briefly describe how to harden a blade.

Handmade switchblades

Small handmade switchblade knives are produced by the following companies:

• Kizlyar,
• Nozhemir,
• Knives Fursach,
• Sander,
• Workshop "Bulat".

Their cost starts from 4,000 rubles, since natural and expensive materials are used for the handle (expensive wood, bone, horns). Often there are decorations on it. Good grade steel (Damascus, alloy, damask steel) also increases the price.

Hand forged knife, Bulat workshop

A switchblade made by Zonov looks simpler than one made by a professional, and costs from 1,500 rubles. In production, simple materials are usually used, that is, stainless steel, aluminum and plastic for the handle. The blades of such products are narrow, with a triangular tip. You can find a knife on thematic forums of amateurs and some online trading platforms.

And here is more information about German bayonet knives.

“Dismissals” of good quality are practical, sometimes help in everyday life, and look impressive in a collection. But such knives last a long time only with careful care of the working mechanisms. You need to not only wash the blade and handle, but also clean the springs, blocking elements with a brush, and periodically lubricate them with gun oil.

Wooden scabbard

When wondering how to make a knife sheath, many opt for the wooden option. Wooden scabbards are reliable, practical and very beautiful. The wooden knife sheath is decorated with paintings. It is used for storing blades at home.

Pros and cons of the material

To make this type of protection, hardwood is used. It can be:

• oak;
• beech;
• nut.

Working with such breeds is very difficult. However, the resulting device will be reliable. In addition, it is possible to decorate it with decor, paints, wood painting (burning) and so on. If you plan to wear the sheath on a belt, you need to additionally create a loop for fastening made of leather material.

Required materials and tools

Wooden products do not have liners. It will be impossible to remove them and clean them. Therefore, to maintain safety, the inside of the wood is treated with wax or other waterproof compound. To make a sheath you will need the following materials and tools:

• wood for work (hardwoods are recommended);
• pencil;
• ruler;
• exemplary blade;
• chisel;
• sandpaper;
• wood glue;
• wax for impregnation.

Sandpaper for cleaning should be of medium abrasiveness.

Manufacturing stages

How to make a knife sheath with your own hands step by step:

1. Take two pieces of wood. First we work with one of them. We apply the knife to it to the depth at which the blade is planned to enter the sheath.
2. We outline the outline. Then we increase the perimeter by 2 mm for ease of use of the object.
3. Using a chisel, we make indentations corresponding to the size of the blade.
4. We repeat the same steps in mirror order with another piece of wood.
5. Leaving about 5 mm for the thickness of the cover itself, we cut the rest of the wood along the contour.
6. The core is sanded with sandpaper and treated with wax.
7. The two halves are glued together using wood glue.

Making a sketch

Cutting out the core for the blade

Connecting the elements

Making a design sketch

Burn it out with a soldering iron

Design option

Post-processing

The prepared products must be carefully treated with sandpaper to avoid splinters when using the cover. Before you make a wooden knife sheath, you should think about impregnating it. It is advisable to treat them externally with wax.

We process the coating with sandpaper to remove splinters

Sharpening issues

Depending on the purpose, whatever the profile of the blade, the knife is first sharpened on a coarse whetstone, and then on a finer-grained one. The sharpening angle for folding knives is about 15-20 degrees. A larger angle is good for a camping knife used to chop brushwood. Do not forget about the rule: the smaller the angle you give, the sharper the blade will be, but at the same time it will become dull faster. You're not going to shave with a folding knife, are you? Then do not make the sharpening angle less than ten degrees. In a word, try it, choose for yourself which sharpening is more suitable for your needs.

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How to make a knife from wood

A wooden knife is not exotic, but a completely practical tool in a serious kitchen. It delicately cuts soft pastries, filled pies, and cheeses. They find it convenient to make sandwiches. This knife will not damage the non-stick coating of the pans.

Wooden knives for the kitchen PHOTO: rukikryki.ru

Materials and tools

The knife is made from a dry board of hard wood, such as linden or beech. It is desirable that there are no knots and the piece of board is straight-layered. You will also need mineral oil.

It is good if a belt sander, jigsaw or laser programmable machine is available.

Manufacturing instructions

The process is also gradual. First, the shape of the future knife is drawn, then the drawing is transferred to the board using the template. The workpiece is cut out from the design either manually or on a programmable laser machine. The future blade is formed on the belt grinding device

The work requires extreme caution and attention. The final operation consists of hand sanding with sandpaper.

A clean workpiece should be soaked in mineral oil. You need to let it soak into the wood well.

Types of knives

There are differences between types of knives in the geometric shape of the blade. The purpose of a particular knife depends on the shape. With some weapons it is more convenient to make piercing movements, and with others it is more convenient to make slashing movements.

Hunting knives have the following types of blades:

• straight edge at top;
• the upper edge (Drop Point) smoothly descending towards the centrally located tip;
• an upwardly extending edge and a blade located at the top relative to the axis of the tip (Trailing Point);
• a blade in the form of a Bowie knife, which has a straight, sharp upper edge with a steep descent at the tip (Clip Point);
• with a straight spine and a bent cutting edge (Skinner);
• with a double-sided wedge-shaped blade, like a dagger.

According to the type and size of the design, hunting knives are divided into the following groups:

1. Classic. Standard length - from 10 to 13 cm. Blade width - 3-3.5 cm. Weight - from 120 to 180 g. Blades of any type are allowed, except double-sided sharpened. The purpose of classic knives is long-term work on cutting carcasses and skinning.
2. Big ones. Size - from 13 to 17 cm. The blade can have any shape. Weight - from 180 to 300 g. A large mass must be accompanied by an appropriate guard and a thick handle. Large knives are used for slashing. They are not very suitable for other purposes.
3. Foldable. Sizes vary. Folding knives are equipped with one or two blades. They perform best when performing small, short-term work.

In order for the blade to gain sufficient rigidity, grooves are made in the metal. They also have another name - valleys. The presence of fullers not only increases the rigidity of the blade, but also reduces the weight of the knife.

The best option for a hunter is to have two knives. One is designed for finishing off large game and cutting up carcasses. It should be long and heavy. The second is for cutting small game and utility work (for example, cutting branches in the forest).

History of origin

Engineer Bernard Mac Gaven received the first patent for the production of a design with a front extension blade in 1884. The first models ejected the blade automatically, but had to be retracted into the handle manually. Frontal folding knife designs were rarely produced until the mid-20th century and were classified as curiosities.

Serial production was established by German gunsmiths from the Bonsa corporation in 1950. At the same time, French and Italian manufacturers are starting to produce front-facing cameras. The production of clones of the famous Bonsa brand, which are produced in Taiwan and Korea, is spreading. Copies are called Super Futo, Nato.

At that time, the products of Korea of ​​the Bell Metal brand, which were supplied by an American company to the USA, were of the highest quality, and were sold there on the market under the brand names of Italian and German manufacturers. Specialized stores selling automatic knives are opening in America. The government is introducing restrictions on the use of automatic front cameras and the demand for knives is falling catastrophically.

The change in demand is affecting production in Taiwan, where production has almost ceased. But the Chinese are taking over the baton. Many copies of the famous Bonsa appear on the market. One of the models served as a prototype for the development of Microtech products. The first model of the famous engineer Marfione is called Ultratech. The front knife is quickly gaining popularity, and prompt Chinese manufacturers are starting to produce a replica of this front knife.

Knives became widespread in the sailing environment, where sailors could not use two hands to cut gear. After World War II, the cult of folding knives developed in America; at the same time, many disabled people with one arm appeared who needed such products. The idea of ​​frontal miscarriage is catching on and is gradually spreading to countries around the world.

A spectacular click when opening played a role, although any dexterous person can open a folding knife with both hands during this time. The knife is recognized as no more dangerous than a simple folding knife, but in some countries frontal knives are prohibited. In Russia, this type of knives is prohibited if the blade length is more than 90 mm.

How to make a knife from wood

We looked at how steel blades are made, and now we will learn about how to make a wooden knife. As in the case of a steel knife, you need to prepare a template, select a piece of board made of durable wood and a tool. You will need a jigsaw or a wood saw, a grinder or a set of sandpaper of various grits.

Minimum kit for making a wooden knife PHOTO: eastwoodscarpentry.co.uk

Such a wooden knife, of course, will not replace a full-fledged metal kitchen model, but it can easily cut vegetables, fruits, cake, cheese or butter.

Preparatory stage

To make an automatic switchblade yourself, you need to take a strip of metal and transfer a sketch of the intended product onto it. Then, using sandpaper or a special machine, you will need to process the future blade.

If there is no suitable device, then you shouldn’t even start manufacturing quite complex products. Alternatively, you can use a needle file, a file or a hand drill for finishing. In addition, old kitchen knives are sometimes used as points.

After processing the blade and giving it the required shape, the part is clamped into a yew and grinding begins. Initially, rough finishing is done with a diamond file, then finishing is done using a fine-grained stone. The excess metal is sawed off, a hole is drilled in the center in the prepared part, and the end of the product is also sanded.

Basic operations for making knives

The manufacturing process includes several stages. Let's look at how to make hunting knives with your own hands (photos will help you evaluate the labor intensity of the process).

The knife is ready. All that remains is to place it in a reliable sheath. Making hunting knives can be a good business.

The cost of throwing knives varies online. But if you decide to master this science, you will need not one knife, but at least five. Calculate for yourself how much money it will cost you. Is it possible to make a throwing knife yourself? There is nothing complicated here! I outlined for you the most popular models and indicated all sizes. Download the drawings of throwing knives and I’ll teach you how to use them.

Throwing knife designs: "Cobra"

(Chrysostom). The only model in the company's line of throwing knives. There used to be more. The reason is simple: the CEO of the company is a professional knife thrower. He spent several years developing this model. Cobra is well balanced, inexpensive and colored red (easy to find in the grass).

The drawing shows the main dimensions of the Cobra throwing knife. Blade thickness 5.00 mm. Weight 145 gr.

This is what Cobra looks like live

Throwing knife drawings: “Gadfly”

(Chrysostom). A distinctive feature of the line of knives with the “Rosarms” brand is the handle wrapped with cord, steel EI-107, leather sheath.

This is what “Gadfly” looks like live

Throwing Knife Blueprints: "Strike"

Same . The large throwing knife “Udar” (290 mm) is designed for long-distance throwing.

This is what “Udar” looks like live

How to use drawings?

Print it out, stick it on thick cardboard and cut along the outline. Then place it on a metal plate and outline it with a marker. Then everything depends on whether you have a tool. You can cut it out with a hacksaw, and select the rounded parts with a grinder.

You can also select slopes on a throwing knife with a grinder, make them with a file, or use a belt grinder. Don't put on much beauty. If you have already bought polished factory metal in a store, then you know that after several throws the knife becomes covered with scratches and loses its original appearance.

The most important! Remove all the burrs from the blade and do not sharpen it so that bread can be cut - there is no point, and when you throw with a grip on the blade, you may end up without fingers.

PS In the summer we are opening a knife throwing school with step-by-step video lessons. For subscribers of our store - free. You can subscribe. You will also receive a gift for subscribing there. Good luck!

Every hunter understands that you cannot do without a special knife - with the help of it you can chop a splinter for a fire, repair equipment, and process prey. Thus, this device is truly universal. And you can make it this way yourself to your taste.

Materials and tools: 1. Emery stone.2. Diamond needle file.3. Drill.4. Drills.5. Files.6. Abrasive stones.7. Current rectifier.8. Soldering iron.9. Grinding wheel.10. Metal for a knife. It is advisable to select high-speed tool steel.11. Wood for making a handle.12. Rivets.13. The plate is brass or bronze.

Work order: Any work begins with a drawing. Moreover, in this case, you will need two drawings - the knife itself and a separate blade with a shank.

Next stage

A knife is a tool that is needed in any household. On store shelves you can find such knives for a variety of needs. These can be kitchen, dining, multifunctional or hunting products. Choosing a knife to serve effectively and for a long time is not very easy. But almost every home craftsman can make a homemade product that will not be inferior in quality to the factory one. On hunters' websites and forums you can see photos of handmade knives that amaze with their diversity. In addition, on the Internet you can find a lot of tips and tricks for making homemade cutting devices.

Features of operation

Knives with frontal blade ejection are produced with blades that are made in the shape of a rectangular regular prism. The blade is narrower than a small-sized handle; it is limited by its width. Front blades are used for cutting and piercing operations, but are rarely used in harsh extreme conditions, because there is a gap and slight vibration of the blade.

Automatic mechanisms require careful and periodic maintenance. Knives are not used when working with abrasive materials, the dust from which penetrates into the smallest crevices of the tool and, in combination with moisture, contributes to rapid wear. After such use, the knife is disassembled, cleaned and lubricated. There is an erroneous theory that frontal devices are disposable and cannot be disassembled.

High-quality Russian-made knives are complex, but collapsible designs with a long service life. The owner of the knife can independently process the internal surfaces if he has accuracy, patience and special tools.

Tips for disassembly and cleaning:

• Before work, prepare all the required tools. For the fastening screws on the handle, appropriate cue balls are selected in shape and diameter.
• Pay attention to removing springs that may fly out to the side. Miniature parts are difficult to find; if lost, you will need to place an order with the manufacturer.
• High-quality compounds manufactured in the factory are used for lubrication. Homemade recipes will be harmful; unprofessional ingredients may leave an unpleasant taste on the tongue after cutting the food.
• When assembling, the blade is placed in the middle position, that is, it extends halfway from the handle. The mechanism will start correctly and there will be no problems with operation.

Drawing and layout

Before starting metal processing, everything is done on paper, and then a template is made from cardboard. Why such formalities, you ask. The fact is that such flaws as, say, the butt sticking out in the folded position or insufficient immersion of the blade into the handle will be revealed at the initial stage. It is easier to remake a cardboard template than a metal product.

If you're not a designer-designer, borrow drawings from the Internet. Locking mechanisms for folding knives are classified into:

• The pin one is one of the most difficult to perform. A spring mechanism with a pin is placed between the linings of the knife handle.
• With a lock on the butt. The heel of the blade is sawn through, and a rocker is installed in the handle, when pressed, the knife opens. To make such a lock you need to have certain locksmith skills and a set of tools.
• Linear is the easiest lock option to implement. Its essence is that a flat strip of concave steel, mounted between the linings, keeps the knife from opening. In essence, this strip plays the role of a flat spring. To make such a lock, you do not need any special tools or any specific skills.

Drawing up a drawing

How to make a carpentry workbench (mechanism, folding) with your own hands

The drawing of a folding knife is drawn up on paper, then transferred directly to metal or cardboard. It is recommended to create a blade template before starting metalwork in order to see clearly how the finished product will turn out and, if necessary, make changes immediately. You may encounter the following technical problems: the blade does not sink deep enough into the handle, the butt sticks out, and the like. When drawing up a sketch, you need to decide on the shape of all the parts, as well as the locking mechanism. Using the template, the initial adjustment of all knife parts is carried out.

There are a lot of blade and handle shapes; which one to choose depends on the aesthetic taste of the master. Homemade folding knives have three types of locking mechanisms:

1. With fixation on the butt - a cut is made in the heel of the blade, and a spacer (rocker arm) is mounted in the handle; when you press it, the lock opens. Having locksmith equipment, it will not be difficult to make such a lock for a folding knife.
2. Linear - steel is inserted between the handle plates, in which a figured cut is made in the form of a horizontal strip and bent inward. Thus, the mechanism acts as a spring - it holds the blade in the closed position. Linear lock is the simplest option, suitable for manufacturing using hand tools.
3. Pin - a spring mechanism with a movable pin is mounted between the handle linings, which fixes the blade in the open position. This is the most difficult mechanism to implement.

It is best to use ready-made diagrams and drawings of folding knives, otherwise it will be difficult to create a truly high-quality product with your own hands. Such templates already take into account all the nuances; a sketch from them can be immediately transferred to the material. If a sketch is created from scratch, you must make a layout from cardboard, on which each detail is brought to its ideal shape.

The procedure for making a folding knife with your own hands

Once the cardboard model of the future knife is ready and all its elements meet the standards, you can begin manufacturing the device itself. At this stage, the material for the future knife and tools that may be useful in the process of its manufacture should already be prepared. As already mentioned, stainless steel is considered the optimal material for making a knife blade, since it will not rust, even if moisture gets inside the folder.

For drilling holes in hardened steel, it is best to use ceramic or glass drills.

It is very important to drill at low speeds and apply a little force. If you approach the process of drilling holes in a workpiece irresponsibly, you can simply erase the drills without achieving the desired result.

In order to prevent steel from sinking, it is necessary to constantly monitor the level of its heating and often cool the part.

As for dies, it is better to use titanium for them, since, even with a small thickness, this material has high strength indicators

In addition, titanium is lightweight and does not corrode, which is also important for a folding knife. When processing titanium and giving it the desired shape, it is also recommended to work at low speeds with an angle grinder; you can even use a hand hacksaw for metal

In order to make a folding knife, the next thing you need to do is cut out the contours of the corkscrew spring, which will be located at the bottom of the die. At the intended end of the die, it is necessary to drill holes with a diameter of no more than 2.5 millimeters; there should be 3-4 such holes. After making the holes, you need to connect them and insert a hacksaw blade there. The next step will be sawing through the stopper line, but when performing this procedure it is necessary to leave a small margin, which will be removed during the process of setting up and checking the finished knife.

As for the lower die, it often has the same dimensions as the upper one, but there is one difference; in the lower die it is necessary to make a special recess for the hole for opening the knife. Another difference between the top and bottom dies is the diameter of the screw holes. In the lower die, such holes must be made for the screw thread, while the diameters of the holes in the upper die must have the diameter of the screw. After all the parts have been cut out and all the holes drilled, you need to make or select two small washers. Bronze or fluoroplastic washers are considered the most optimal. Such washers will act as a bearing and be mounted on the axis of rotation of the knife.

The next stage in the manufacture of the knife will be its direct assembly. This must be done one by one:

• insert the axle into the lower die;
• install the locking pin;
• install the washer;
• place the blade and assemble the knife together.

If any inaccuracies arise during the assembly process, but they need to be eliminated, for example, if the parts of the knife do not mate, then they need to be adjusted in place. After the knife is assembled, you need to install the corkscrew ball. To do this, in the area of ​​the corkscrew spring it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter of 0.1-0.2 millimeters, that is, it must be smaller than its ball. The average size of a bearing ball is 1.5-2 millimeters. The ball is pressed into the locking plate using a vice, and it should protrude to the surface by approximately half a millimeter.

After the ball is installed, it is necessary to determine the place of its contact with the wedge; to do this, just close and open the knife several times. After this, a mark will remain on the blade of the knife; at a distance of 0.3 millimeters from the edge of the mark, it is necessary to make a small hole into which the ball will enter when the knife is closed. In order to set and check the functionality of the knife lock, it is initially recommended to assemble the device without the top die. If everything works properly, you can completely assemble the knife and check its operation while folded.

Now the knife is ready. As it becomes clear, it is possible to make a folding automatic knife with your own hands; it will take a little time and patience.

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History of development from stone to modern

Man first began to use a knife immediately after he stopped walking on all fours and began to get food with improvised means. The tools that people began to use for hunting and farming were fragments of bones or stones. The first ones were much easier to make, due to the fragility of the animal’s bones, but such products dulled unusually quickly, and not all components of the skeleton were suitable for the role of a sharp instrument.

To make a knife from stone, primitive man had to put in a lot of effort. However, the laboriousness of the process was compensated by its relative strength and the ability to sharpen the edge of a stone blade. Another advantage of a stone knife over a bone one was the durability of the tool. Bone weapons were fragile and often broke during hunting, so this type gradually passed into economic use and construction.

At the time of human mastery of metalworking, edged weapons began to be made from bronze and copper. They were significantly superior to stone samples in terms of durability. The blades were made from a single piece of metal. Swords, daggers, and knives of those times became indispensable weapons for the soldiers of the Roman Empire, with the help of which troops conquered new territories.

The Iron Age is the age of experimentation and new technologies. Knives acquired different shapes and lengths; at this time, sickle-shaped and wave-shaped blades were invented. In Rus' at that time, edged weapons were included in the attributes of the nobility and merchants. The Vikings used wood to make sword hilts so that the steel, frozen in the cold, would not burn the hand.

In the Middle Ages, people began to use steel - an alloy of iron and carbon - in the production of swords. These times were considered bloody; history knows many large-scale wars and battles. As a result, the emphasis in forges was not on quality, but on quantity. And in comparison with ancient times, the characteristics of the samples of edged weapons of the Middle Ages were much inferior to the ancient prototypes.

During the Renaissance, the experience of blacksmiths, passed down from generation to generation, together with new technologies of that time, resulted in steel cutting products of quite high quality. But just at this time, firearms began to be used in battles, and interest in blades began to gradually fade away.

During the Industrial Revolution, the production of bladed weapons became widespread, moving from handicraft to factory production.

In factories, the manufacturability of the process reduces costs, which means that the product becomes cheaper and is already available to almost everyone. Soon, folding knives and world-famous centers for their production appeared - Russian Zlatoust, English Sheffield, German Solingen and Swedish Eksilstun.

About the handles

Dried wood is used to make handles. Walnut, beech, maple, pear, cherry, birch and mahogany are suitable for this purpose. You can purchase the necessary material in a specialized store or donate some old furniture. The handles can be mounted or overhead.

In the first case, a hole is drilled in a wooden block for the shank. Installation is carried out using adhesives. Many craftsmen weld a bolt to the shank. This makes it possible to drill through the block. The handle is secured with a screw-on nut.

Preparing tools

Forging a knife is performed using certain blacksmithing tools, which you can purchase without any problems in a specialized store. However, you can try to forge a knife with your own hands and using a non-professional tool. You will need:

The forging hammer should weigh 3-4 kg

• hammer weighing up to 1 kg;
• hammer weighing 3-4 kg;
• welding machine;
• vice;
• grinder;
• Bulgarian;
• blacksmith tongs (can be replaced with ordinary pliers, always without insulation on the handles);
• anvil (you can use a homemade analogue of this device from an I-beam);
• adjustable wrench;
• bake.

If with simple tools everything is quite clear, then about the stove you need to give separate explanations. To forge a knife, the steel must be heated to a temperature of 900 degrees. This is almost impossible to do in a simple hearth. Therefore, the hearth needs to be modernized a little. If you have never had to harden steel before, you will have to assemble a stove from thick-walled metal from scratch and connect an air supply pipe to it. The air can be supplied by an old vacuum cleaner or a fan. This design is perfect for heating workpieces up to 900-1200 degrees. The stove can be heated with ordinary charcoal. The best one is the one that burns as long as possible and produces the maximum amount of heat.

Folding knife mockup

So, if a person is interested in the question of how to assemble a folding knife, then this can be done even without special skills. The main thing in this process is to take into account all the established parameters and adhere to all the rules for performing such a process. The first thing to do, starting with making a knife, is to sketch the future device on paper. You can also use special graphic editors. The best option for cutting out a template for the future knife blade is cardboard, since it is more durable than paper. Moreover, you can cut out all the components of the future knife from cardboard, and then fasten the cardboard blade and handle with a screw and nut; to do this, you need to cut a hole in the cardboard for the axle. This approach will help you understand how proportional the elements of the knife are, and how the device being manufactured will close.

In addition, making a cardboard model of the knife will help to correctly match the shape of the heel of the blade, and this part, as you know, is extremely important for the comfortable and practical use of the knife. You can find out what the supporting part of the heel should look like by watching a DIY folding knife video. The video will help you make sure that the heel of the blade is really made correctly and has the required bevel angle; an angle of 7-9 0 is considered optimal. After this, you need to sketch a linear knife lock; as you know, it is based on three points that form a triangle. Each point of the linear lock has its own purpose:

• for installing the pivot pin;
• for mounting a corkscrew pin;
• the contact zone of the supporting planes of the heel of the blade and the pressure plate, that is, the stopper.

It is worth noting that it is the lateral pressure force of the stopper that fixes the blade in the closed position; there are no other elements performing this function in this knife design

That is why it is extremely important to mount a small steel ball from the bearing into the stopper; it will become an additional retainer for the closed blade and, accordingly, will secure the use of the knife. It is very important to choose the correct location of the ball lock, since it depends on the functioning of the entire knife lock

Having marked the location of the ball retainer on a cardboard mock-up of the blade and locking spring, you need to make sure that it will fit tightly there and will not interfere with folding the knife. After this, you need to decide on the fasteners that will tighten the dies together. It is not recommended to use fasteners with large heads or place them too close to the edge of the handle. This is due to the fact that subsequently it may be necessary to install a spacer or tubular racks between the fasteners.

Next we start making the side dies.

Next, drill a hole in the dies for the blade stopper pin, install the axis and stopper pin, install the blade and the second die. We move the blade to the open position and mark on the die the position of the heel of the blade, more precisely the place where the lock liner should rest. Next, mark the liner and start cutting it out.

Having prepared the pritins in this way, we proceed to install them on the dies. There are different methods: soldering, riveting, spot welding, etc. The most accessible are soldering and riveting.

For soldering you will need a soldering iron, soldering acid, solder and a heat source. As a soldering iron, it is best to use a massive piece of copper, which is heated in the flame of a burner. Soldering acid is hydrochloric acid etched with zinc. POS-60, POS-90 are suitable as solder. Before soldering, it is necessary to clean and tin the soldering areas.

Cleaned with sandpaper and a file. After cleaning, coat the soldering areas with acid, take a piece of solder on a well-heated soldering iron and tin the surface. During the tinning process, it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps and that the entire surface is covered with an even layer of solder.

High-quality tinning and soldering are possible only with good heating of the parts.

After servicing, rinse the parts thoroughly in water and soda, removing any remaining acid. Next, we clamp the tinned parts in a vice and begin to heat them with a burner from different sides.

To reduce heat loss, thermal insulating material must be laid under the jaws of the vice; fragments of ceramic tiles work well.

As it warms up, we press the vice until droplets of solder appear between the parts, after which the heating can be stopped.

Soldering the right pritina has its own peculiarities: first we solder the knife axis into the die, and then solder the pritina, while instead of one of the ceramic tiles we use a piece of tube larger than the diameter axis.

Sergey Mikhailovsky, Kharkov https://knives.com.ua

Taken from Master Knife.

Source: https://hobbywork.ru/delaem-skladnoy-nozh/

About making the blade

During the manufacturing process of the blade, excess is removed from the metal blank. Near the shank itself, the corners need to be slightly rounded; with this design the blade will be stronger. A novice master should be prepared for the fact that the sharpening procedure will be quite lengthy. It is carried out on sharpening stones with different grain sizes.

First, sharpening is done on a coarse-grained wheel. Often beginners ruin the blade. The reason is the incorrect angle. If the knife is intended for heavy and rough work, the blade should be sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees, 20 for medium, 10-15 degrees for fine. According to the masters, sharpening is a very important element of the work, on which the cutting properties of the blade will depend.

With concave triggers, which are the easiest to make, the knife will be ineffective. With a “flat wedge” sharpening, the blade will have average cutting performance. However, this will become possible with a two-millimeter blade. If a hacksaw blade is used as a raw material, then its thickness in this case will not be enough. It is recommended to equip the knife with a sharpening in the form of a concave lens. The blade will be effective for through cuts.

Features and stages of production

After preparation, you can start working. First of all, you will need a life-size drawing of the knife.

Blade making

They start with the blade. There are many varieties, although most have a blade on only one side. The opposite blunt part is called the butt. The tapering part on which the handle will be is the shank. The following steps are performed:

1. The drawing must be carefully and accurately transferred to the workpiece. You can trace the contours with a pencil or a carbide scriber.
2. The excess is removed with sandpaper and a blade is made. It is better to make the transition point into the shank round. This form will give the structure reliability.
3. If rivets are planned, you need to make a hole for attaching the handle. Simply drilling it will most likely not work. At home you will have to carry out an electrolysis reaction.

To make a hole you will need a special solution. The electrolyte can be ordinary table salt dissolved in water. You also need direct current, voltage - 27 V. Next you need:

1. Coat the steel metal part with varnish, which dries quickly.
2. Wrap it with electrical tape.
3. A circle is cut out where the hole should be.
4. The shank is sent into an electrolyte solution. Under the influence of current, a hole appears. To obtain the correct shape, it is processed with a diamond file.

Riveting is not the only option. Complex physical and chemical reactions can be avoided by using a long shank with a thread at the end. The handle will be pressed by a nut (knob). Many people think that this design looks better. There are many possibilities for beautiful design.

Carrying out sharpening

The blade needs to be sharpened. There are also many options here. The choice of the appropriate one depends on the purpose and the material used, for example:

1. For a hunting knife, these can be concave slopes or a flat wedge. The latter cuts better, but requires a blade thickness of at least 2 mm.
2. The kitchen one is sharpened to 40-45º. To do this, each side is tilted approximately 22.5º towards the sharpener during operation.
3. The dagger is sharpened on both sides. In this case there will be no butt.

During operation, the metal will heat up. To cool, you need to take a bucket of water.

Shank reinforcement

Once the blade has been sharpened, there are a few additional steps you can take. This is necessary to securely fasten the handle:

1. Notches are made on the shank. The location is asymmetrical. This improves grip on the handle.
2. To remove some of the load from the shank, a bolster is used. This is a flat plate on the side of the blade; it fits onto the end of the handle. Made from brass, bronze - metals that are resistant to corrosion and easy to process. Holes are drilled in it, which are then combined. The bolster is adjusted to the blade, sometimes sealed. The handle is lined with leather.