How to make a doll: manufacturing technology, patterns and step-by-step sewing instructions. 85 photos of the best ideas

Salt dough doll

Salt dough is a universal material for beginning craftsmen. Products made from this material are most often used as training crafts in clubs and creative houses. There are a lot of recipes for making dough, you just need to choose one. Instructions on how to make a doll with your own hands:

1. In a container, mix water, salt and flour in the recommended proportions.
2. Mix the working mass thoroughly.
3. Wrap the cutting board in cling film.
4. Place a piece of dough on the board and then sculpt a doll figurine from it.

After drying, the finished craft can be decorated at your discretion: original Slavic girls, Disney cartoon characters, individual projects.

General description of products

Three countries can be considered the official homeland of BJD: China, Japan and South Korea. It was there that mass production of such dolls first began. Today, the market has successfully expanded to European countries, Russia and America. Over time, domestic products began to be called simply BZD. Even an absolute beginner can make a doll with his own hands. However, to do this you will need to familiarize yourself with the main characteristics of such products listed in the list below.

Required tools and materials

In order to start making crafts, you should prepare:

• scraps of flesh-colored fabric to create the torso and head;
• multi-colored material for clothing;
• paper;
• sewing needles;
• tailor's and small scissors;
• threads Reinforced threads are used to tie the body;
• patterns of dolls and clothing parts;
• stuffing material;
• pins;
• glue "Moment";
• tweezers and sushi chopsticks for turning parts out;
• acrylic paints;
• decorative elements;
• felt-tip pens or markers.

If you have to do work from natural materials, then stock up on straw, birch bark or wood. They think in advance about what the hair and eyes will be made of.

Advantages of homemade dolls

Do-it-yourself dolls have an undoubted advantage over production models:

1. The craftsmen themselves determine the size, shape, style of clothing and material of manufacture. It is not at all necessary to strictly follow the author's project. There is always room for creative deviation from the ideal.
2. Making interior dolls with your own hands will bring joy to both children and adults, especially when working together.
3. Miniature work is a great way to relieve stress and fatigue after a hard day at work.
4. A wide variety of models: from homemade fabric dolls, made with your own hands (with patterns), to exclusive author's ideas.
5. A huge selection of step-by-step instructions, video lessons, master classes and training courses for beginners.

All materials and tools are not only available at reasonable prices in craft and creative stores, but are also sure to be at hand for every thrifty housewife. Projects for making rag dolls with your own hands can be found in the public domain.

Types of dolls for home decoration

There are five types of textile dolls that are created by needlewomen to decorate home interiors:

• A doll in the anime tradition
  . These dolls are made in the style of Asian cartoon characters. As a rule, their head is larger than their body, and their legs and arms are miniature in size. The creator of anime dolls is an artist from Scotland - Susan Woolcott.
• A doll with a pumpkin head. The distinctive features of this doll are the head, which is shaped like a pumpkin, a convex chin and nose.
• Tilda doll. One of the most popular types of interior dolls. Everyone has seen Tilda at least once in their life. The proportions of her body are out of the ordinary; she has long thin legs and arms, an elongated head, which seems to serve as an extension of her neck. Tilda has no mouth, but she has beady eyes and pink cheeks. Interior doll
• Korean Barbie. These dolls have a beautiful body shape. Their luxurious look in an elegant outfit is always accompanied by accessories in the form of handbags, umbrellas, and hats. Masters create the faces of these Korean beauties using acrylic paints.
• Snowball doll. Doll from Russian designer Tatyana Konne. Characteristic features of Snezka are massive feet on which the doll can stand without support, as well as eyes made of beads. Creating shoes and clothes for such a doll is a separate form of art.

Connecting all the parts

Re-upholstery is the final process, after which the doll is considered almost ready. Holes are drilled in all joints. A special rubber cord is attached to a hook in the neck region, which then passes through the shoulders and arms. This tourniquet is secured in both wrists. For the lower extremities, a different cord is used, running from the ankles to the neck.

After installing the harnesses, you just need to pull all the parts, finding the optimal equilibrium state of each element of the doll. A wire or cord is passed through all the holes in the form of a loop. Fastening must be done on previously installed hooks. The elastic band should not sag, otherwise the product will not be stable.

Where to begin

In order to better understand the process of creating your own masterpiece, it is useful to read articles on how to make a doll with your own hands for beginning needlewomen. Working with small parts creates some difficulties.

Making a beauty and sewing clothes for her is no easier than doing it for an adult. It takes a lot of time and perseverance

To implement an idea, it is important to imagine the image of the future creation in advance and choose the right material.

The creation of each type of product requires special equipment. The necessary elements and accessories for the future craft are selected depending on the ideas of the doll maker.

How to make a BJD doll with your own hands: description and tips

This type of needlework interests people from all over the world. Craftswomen from Europe and Asia equally ask about how to make a BJD doll. The name of the products comes from the English BJD (ball jointed doll). Translated, this phrase means “ball-jointed doll.” Particularly popular is due to the fact that, thanks to the mechanisms connecting various parts of the body, the final result very much resembles a real person. The doll can take any pose due to the fact that springs, cords or rubber cords are used in certain places.

Rules for making dolls with your own hands

For many craftswomen, this activity has become not just a hobby, but a source of income. This is because lately handmade items have been especially highly valued, and many are trying to buy handmade items for gifts or for home decor. But in order to create truly worthy toys and souvenirs, you need to adhere to several rules and have a good knowledge of the technique of doing the work.

In order to make a doll with your own hands, you need to select the appropriate material. You can use yarn, fabric scraps, felt, old socks, plastic, wire, etc. Very interesting versions of dolls are obtained using the modeling technique. They may consist partially or entirely of clay, cold porcelain and even plasticine. One of the important conditions for creating a beautiful and high-quality doll is the right attitude of the master.

Amulet doll

Do-it-yourself fabric amulets dolls have their own characteristic differences.

Each of our ancestors had a doll in their everyday life, which was cherished and passed on from generation to generation, as a symbol, a mediator between the future, present and past. The amulet doll has its own characteristics:

• A shirt and a skirt are mandatory attributes of the product.
• There are no eyes, no nose, no mouth on the doll's face. Instead, a thread is wrapped around her face.
• It is also noteworthy that each part of the body, each accessory is not sewn on, but is wound with threads crosswise.
• It is necessary to make a doll only in a good mood and good spirits, so that the product retains its ancient properties.

Handmade dolls are an original, unique accessory that will be an excellent interior decoration, a favorite toy, a wonderful gift that personifies warmth, love and kindness.

Rules for creating amulet dolls

When making amulets dolls, you should follow the following rules:

1. Start work in a good mood. Remember that the doll absorbs part of the energy of the craftswoman, so you should not start working on the doll in a state of irritation, fatigue or illness.
2. There should be no men or grown-up boys near the craftswoman. An exception may be young boys, but they should not distract the craftswoman.
3. Create a doll not on the table, but on your lap. Cover yourself with a scarf to prevent hair from accidentally getting into the doll.
4. Do not touch the doll with sharp objects (scissors, knives, needles) or glue. Clothes should be sewn separately and then put on the doll.
5. Try to make the doll before you go to bed.
6. Use natural materials without dyes to create a doll. This can be cotton and linen fabrics, matting, threads, ropes, ribbons, straw, etc.
7. Finished dolls cannot be washed or thrown in the trash. If you need to get rid of a doll, it should be burned, buried in the ground, and floated down the river.
8. The very first doll should be made for yourself and left in your home.

DIY Japanese woman made of polymer clay

We have already created dolls from fabric, paper glue, and felt. In this master class we will use polymer clay to make a doll in a Japanese kimono. A mold for sculpting a doll's face will help make it easier to work on the finest details. It will allow you to focus on the combination of real fabric and its imitation made of polymer clay in the outfit of this sophisticated creature. DIY Japanese woman made of polymer clay:

You will need:

• Scissors
• Polymer clay (black, white, yellow, blue, pink)
• Polymer clay
• Acrylic paints
• Face mold
• Fabrics with Japanese patterns
• Texture sheet
• PVA glue
• Brushes
• Manicure scissors
• Toothpicks
• rolling pin
• Metal mesh cup

Master Class:

Japanese woman made of polymer clay with her own hands.
1. Mix two types of clay, achieving a uniform consistency.

2. We sculpt a cone - this will be the body of our doll.

3. Roll the ball and put it in a mold for modeling. If you wish, you can sculpt your face yourself. Remove excess mass.

4. Insert one edge of the toothpick into the cone, the other into the base of the “head”. If the clay has already dried, then apply a few drops of PVA glue to a toothpick. We sculpt the neck, achieving a smooth transition from the head to the body.

5. Take a few pieces of the mixed mass and begin to form a figure.

6. We sculpt handles. Using nail scissors we outline the fingers. We give them the correct shape with our hands and slightly bend the palm and hand.

7. Cut a small rectangle of fabric and throw it over your shoulders. We pin it with a pin.

8. Mix white, yellow and blue clay. Stir it until it has a uniform light green color. Roll out with a rolling pin, place a texture sheet on top (texture side down) and roll with a rolling pin again. We cut out a rectangle from the layer, rounding the corners.

Japanese woman made of polymer clay with her own hands.

9. Wrap the doll’s shoulders with a light green rectangle. We “put” another piece of fabric on top. We cut out a square from the fabric, gather the folds and pin the skirt. We attach all the fabrics to the doll using pins.

10. Just like the light green layer, we make a black layer. We cut out a kimono and wrap it around the doll.

11. Let's start with the sleeves. We wrap each hand first with fabric, then with a light green structural layer, and then with black on top. Put the details aside.

12. To decorate the kimono, let's make bows. Mix clay of several colors. The clay does not need to be mixed until smooth; it is important to leave transitions from color to color.

13. After this, roll out the layer and cut out thin strips. Place the strips on the mesh glass and press it to the surface.

14. Use your fingers to pull out the edges of the ribbons, making a frill.

15. We cut out a square from the same layer and give it a structure using a sheet and a rolling pin. We attach it to the kimono. We make rectangles and glue them on top of the square.

16. We form loops from ribbons, and from loops we form a bow. We attach it to the belt, pressing it with the back of the hand.

17. Glue the hands to the doll. Smooth out the joint with the kimono, removing any unevenness.

18. Roll out a small black layer and form a hairstyle. It should fit snugly to the head.

19. We make sausages from black clay and glue them to the head. We form rollers and also attach them to the head. We paint the face.

20. Roll thin sausages in light green and orange shades. We form loops from them and, pressing them with a needle, attach them to the hairstyle. Using a dry bristle brush, apply bronze acrylic paint to the kimono. Our doll is ready!
Japanese woman made of polymer clay with her own hands.

Choosing fabric for an interior doll

In order for the craft to have a beautiful and original look, you should carefully select the appropriate fabric for it.

High-quality material will allow you to avoid many inconveniences caused by the fabric crumbling or stretching on cuts.

So, it is best to choose the following textiles:

• Cotton fabric is the best fabric option for a toy. It contains synthetic threads that guarantee good tension, improve the processing of the material and make it less wrinkled.
• Stretch gabardine is in demand among craftswomen due to its combined composition (similar to cotton fabric).
• Nylon - great for creating the arms, legs and face of a doll. This material fits the base well, provides a suitable color, and even allows you to give the product the desired shape (for example, to create certain facial features).

Usually, flesh-colored fabric is used for sewing toys. If necessary, white fabric can be tinted with coffee or tea. To do this, you need to use strained liquid so that there are no dots or crumbs left on the material.

What materials will be needed?

Handmade dolls can be of completely different types: for games, for rituals, for interior decoration, for puppet theater and so on.

In most cases, fabric and decorative materials are used to make dolls. So, the work must begin with the selection of materials:

• Schemes, drawings, patterns.
• Fabric of different textures and colors.
• Material for stuffing toys.
• Scraps of leather, felt, flooring for dolls' shoes.
• Strong threads of different colors.
• Fabric paints.
• Scissors, stationery knife.
• Set of needles and pins.
• Elements for decorating products - rhinestones, buttons, beads and so on.
• Sewing machine.

Paper doll world

Paper dolls were popular in Soviet childhood. It did not require much material or time to create. Even kids in kindergarten successfully coped with this task. The work requires scissors, glue, paper, cardboard, markers, colored pencils and a lot of imagination. An important advantage of such a toy is the ability to quickly update your wardrobe.

Before making a paper doll, choose your favorite character, depicted in full size. Next, a sheet of white paper is placed on it and outlined. The resulting figure is painted, cut out, and pasted onto cardboard. The process of creating clothes is more creative.

To do this, they independently draw and cut out different types of clothes from paper. A fluffy skirt made of 8 circles of colored paper of the same diameter, which are folded in half 2 times and glued together, allows the paper princess to stand. Often clothes were cut from ready-made blanks. Information on how to make a paper doll can be found on the Internet.

Of particular interest in creating paper products is the approach of the New Year, when you want to decorate the interior in an unusual way. Making crafts on the eve of the New Year's beauties holiday is a useful, exciting and budget-friendly activity for the family. The basis remains the same paper version of the body for which festive clothes are created. To create a beautiful airy outfit, you can use corrugated paper.

Doriana Dream

Have you ever heard of the Japanese tumbler doll, Daruma ? This is not just a fun souvenir and home decor. Daruma represents Bodhidharma, the founder of the Zen Buddhist school, and fulfills the wish of its owner. Therefore, this talisman doll is a wonderful gift for the New Year and Birthday of a friend or loved one.

In order for the daruma to fulfill your wish, you should adhere to the following procedure: on New Year's Day or on your birthday, make one of your most cherished wishes. Draw one pupil on the doll with a marker or ink and place it in a visible place in the house. This way, the souvenir will not only decorate your home, but will also constantly remind you of the wish you made. When the daruma has fulfilled its purpose, reward it by drawing a second pupil. In Japan, if a daruma fails to fulfill a wish, it is burned in the temple. And they buy a new tumbler doll. This is how the Japanese shows the gods that he has not deviated from his goal and intends to achieve it.

Genuine daruma, of course, can only be purchased in Japan itself or via the Internet. But what to do if you really want to try to make a wish or give an unusual gift to family and friends for the New Year? The answer is simple, I suggest making such a doll yourself. This is exactly what I will talk about in my master class, which I divided into two parts. In the first part I will show you how to make a daruma figurine, and in the second how to paint it. So let's get started!

Materials and tools:

• plain paper for patterns;
• a simple pencil;
• eraser;
• ruler;
• scissors;
• compass;
• corrugated cardboard;
• paper from an old book or newspaper;
• PVA glue (construction);
• water-soluble toilet paper (eg ZEVA);
• PVA construction adhesive;
• dishwashing detergent or liquid soap;
• potato or corn starch;
• wheat flour.

The original Daruma doll is created from papier-mâché, paper or wood. I suggest you make a figurine using papier-mâché technology. And it will not be a tumbler, but a stable figure. To make it look more like the original daruma, I printed out photographs of them.

First, let's make a base out of cardboard and paper. Draw patterns for the future figure on a regular sheet of paper: a frontal silhouette and a base. Their size should be smaller than the final figure, as we will be adding mass later. For example, this is how it turned out for me: the size of the finished doll is 7 x 6 (cm), and the size of the pattern with the silhouette is 5.5 x 5 (cm). Fold the sheet in half along the sides of the pattern and cut along the drawn edge. This will give you a symmetrical silhouette.

The daruma stands on a flat base. Its diameter on the finished figurine was 3.5 cm. And the pattern itself was cut with a diameter of 2.5 cm. Use a compass to draw an even circle.

Using patterns, we cut out figure templates from three-layer corrugated cardboard. Can be used from an old box.

So, the bases for the figure are ready. Just two details:

Now we will begin to increase the mass of the future figure, and only after that we will sculpt it using paper glue. But first things first. To build mass, I use beige paper from old books. Or you can use regular newspaper. The main thing is that the paper wrinkles easily and is pliable.

I cut the sheets into strips measuring about 5 x 1 (cm). Quite a lot of them will go away. But, it’s better to cut a small amount first, and then cut more as you go. I crumple some of the strips into balls.

In addition to paper, we will need the second main ingredient used in papier-mâché - PVA glue. I use construction glue, not office glue. I dip each ball in glue.

And I glue one at a time onto a cardboard template. The task of these balls is to create the volume we need. Until the glue dries, they will move. Therefore, help with your hands to hold them in the desired position.

Then I glue and secure the balls with strips of paper, which I also pre-coat with glue. The paper should be wet and resemble fabric.

Already at this initial stage one should strive to convey the form of the original daruma. Where there is not enough volume, add balls and cover them with strips of paper. The doll, as we see, has a rounded back and a large tummy. We don't touch the sides. We work only with the front and back of the figure. With my back, I did this: I glued together something like a bag of the required diameter from strips of paper on cardboard, and then “stuffed” paper balls into it. And so on step by step. Where the back widens, I try to convey this with paper, I simply glue strips of slightly longer length. And then I narrow it down again. I paste the strips both lengthwise and crosswise. I coat the top with glue again with my finger so that the paper gets thoroughly wet.

But don’t overdo it and build up too much mass. Remember that this is just a base for sculpting. The width of the original cardboard should remain approximately the same as before pasting with paper. The task of this stage is to achieve volume and the desired shape only in front and behind.

Having finished gluing the base of paper and cardboard, we send it to dry. This can be done in the sun or next to a heater (radiator). During the drying process, the base will dry out a little. This will take approximately 8-12 hours. Therefore, you can simply leave the base to dry overnight.

While it dries, let's prepare the mass for sculpting from papier-mâché. Conventionally, it can be called paper glue, here is the recipe:

1) Water-soluble toilet paper (for example, ZEVA) – 40 g.

2) PVA construction adhesive – 250 g.

3) Dishwashing liquid – 1 tbsp. spoon or 15 ml.

4) Potato or corn starch – 50 g + a small amount to bring the mass to the desired state.

5) Wheat flour – 100 g + a small amount to bring the mass to the desired state.

This amount of ingredients yields a mass weighing about 400-450 grams. Everything will depend on the amount of flour and starch mixed. I learned about this recipe from this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRcfA7rGNyk&t=455s But I removed vegetable oil from the composition. This was due to the fact that during my first attempt at preparing this mass, I added sunflower oil, as stated in that video, and made a figurine of Cheburashka. After drying, greasy stains appeared on its surface, which were visible even through the paint. That’s why I removed the oil from the recipe, and it didn’t interfere with the paper glue. The plasticizer in the recipe is dishwashing detergent or liquid soap.

To mix the mass, take a suitable container and measure 250 grams of PVA glue on a scale (you can use a kitchen scale).

Tear off the required number of sheets of toilet paper:

Here's how a roll of ZEWA brand two-ply toilet paper has shrunk from its original size:

Now dissolve one sheet of paper in glue. Tip: to make the paper dissolve better, take the liquid mass in your hand, place the sheet in a container and cover the top with the mass you previously took in your hand. This way the sheet will be covered with glue on both sides.

When you mix in all the sheets, the mixture will thicken. Now add a tablespoon of dishwashing detergent or liquid soap. Mix thoroughly by hand.

Measure out 50 grams of corn or potato starch. I use potato:

And mix the starch into the mass. Knead thoroughly for 2 minutes. At first the mass sticks to the hand, then it stops and becomes tighter.

And finally, add 100 grams of flour and mix with your hand. The mixture begins to stick very strongly to your hand, so lubricate them with dishwashing detergent. You need to knead thoroughly until the mass becomes homogeneous. Add a little flour if the mass is not plastic. But don't overdo it. If there is too much flour, the dried figure will become covered with cracks.

To prevent the paper glue from sticking too much to your hands, you can also add a little starch. But dishwashing detergent works best for this task. Mix the mixture into a ball and place it in a plastic bag. The mixture should be stored in the refrigerator.

In the video I mentioned above, the girl advises adding 1 teaspoon of lemon juice or 5 ml. This must be done if the mass is not planned to be used within the next 3 days. But I don't do that. The mass was stored in the refrigerator for 7 days, did not sour and was pliable during the modeling process. But, of course, it is inferior in plasticity to freshly prepared mass.

As a result, I ended up with 415 g of modeling material. From this quantity you can make about 5 darums or other figures. If you don’t need so much mass, then proportionally reduce the amount of ingredients. On average, it took me 50-60 g of mass per daruma. For this amount of paper glue you will need approximately:

1) Water-soluble toilet paper (for example, ZEVA) – 6 g.

2) PVA construction adhesive – 36 g.

3) Dishwashing liquid – 2 ml. or a little less than half 1 tsp.

4) Potato or corn starch – 7 g + a small amount to bring the mass to the desired state.

5) Wheat flour – 15 g + a small amount to bring the mass to the desired state.

When the paper base for the doll has dried and the mass is prepared, you can start sculpting. Also pour a glass of water. You can watch the sculpting process on the same channel that I mentioned above: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iegxr3oTFPY

So let's get started. Brush the paper base with water. Tear off a piece of the mass and roll it into a layer 2-3 mm thick. Then attach it to the base. It will stick with water. If you do not add water, the base will not bond to the mass. Thus, cover the entire base with the mass. Smooth the joints with water using your finger.

Now let's start giving the daruma the desired shape. To do this, take a close look at the original figurine, for example, on the Internet. Roughly apply the mass in the right places on the base. Pre-lubricate the bonding area with water.

Here is the course of my actions: I glue a thin layer in the shape of the face, make a rim around the mass in the shape of a “sausage”, attach a small triangular-shaped mass under the nose, apply a semicircular mass in place of the tummy, round the sides, add mass to the back of the daruma to convey it round and convex shape. Here's what we ended up with:

Now it's time to smooth out the figure. To do this, use plain water and your finger:

I also use a manicure tool, pre-soaked in water, as a shaping tool. You can also use special stacks for modeling:

I press the indentations under the eyes with my finger. I constantly look at the original daruma figurine to replicate its shape.

Once again I smooth the entire figure with my finger using water:

After this stage, the figure begins to stick strongly to your hands. To fix this, take a little starch and apply it to the figurine with patting movements. I did this: I smoothed the front part of the daruma with water and added starch; Then I smoothed the back and also added starch. This will keep your face from sticking while you smooth out the back. But don't overdo it with the starch layer, otherwise it will dry as a separate layer, which will be very unstable. You need enough starch to remove only the stickiness of the surface.

So, the main part of the daruma is ready:

All that remains is to mold the base of the doll. To do this, take a pre-cut cardboard model and paste it with paste. Don't forget to lubricate the template with water:

Use your fingers to shape the base; it expands towards the top. “Dust” the mass with starch. Next, we apply the molded base to the doll and find its place. The main task here is to make sure that the figure ends up standing and not falling. When you have found the right place, lubricate it with water and glue the base. Use a stack to straighten the edges.

To make the base hold better, we form a thin “sausage” from the mass and apply it to the junction of the two parts:

Using water and stack we smooth everything out:

Finally, we made a daruma figurine:

Now we send it to dry in the sun or near the radiator. I note that if you dry it strongly near a heater, the surface of the figurine will wrinkle more than in the sun. But you don’t have to be afraid of this, since next we will sand the doll with sandpaper.

The daruma heater will dry overnight, and in the sun for 1-2 days. If you do not dry it near a heat source, then the figurine can dry for quite a long time. But the surface will be smoother.

In the next part I will show how to prepare the surface of a figurine for painting and the painting process itself. Don't forget to subscribe to my Instagram and VKontakte group. I also have my own channel on YouTube. Thank you for reading to the end!

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Necessary materials and tools for making a doll

You can make a doll with your own hands from many materials, but the most common of them is fabric. This is a universal material that everyone has in their home and is easy to find in stores. Different types of fabric have different properties, so it’s always easy to make a textile doll for every taste and color. Also, textile toys are very practical, easy to care for, and they do not lose their properties over time. That is why now we will look at how to make a doll with your own hands using fabric.

To make a textile doll, you will need as many materials as you want to use, because it all depends on the idea. To create such a doll you may need the following materials and tools:

• fabric of various types and colors;
• scissors;
• multi-colored threads;
• needles;
• yarn;
• patterns;
• filler, for example, cotton wool or synthetic winterizer;
• safety pins;
• pencil, pen or felt-tip pen;
• tassels;
• acrylic paints;
• floss threads;
• iron;
• wool or fur;
• various decorative elements and anything else that you want to use.

Tilda: master class for beginners

The step-by-step process is not as complicated as it may seem. But you should be careful when performing each step:

Cut out the details of the body.

It is important to place all the details of the template on the fabric in the same direction, then the doll’s limbs will be the same and will not stretch. Don't forget about 5mm seam allowances

Don't forget about 5mm seam allowances

Sewing parts.

All pattern elements are paired. They need to be folded together with the right side inward and sewn together, leaving small holes for stuffing uncovered. Leave the body blank unstitched along the bottom edge.

Incisions.

Before turning the finished parts inside out at the folds, be sure to cut off the excess fabric remaining from the seam allowances as close to the stitching as possible.

The stitched parts turn out flat and need to be stuffed

Turn the torso and limbs out carefully so as not to pierce the fabric, using a pencil or other convenient object in narrow places. Padding

Padding.

Fill all parts with synthetic down or any other filler with a loose structure. In this case, the legs are stuffed only up to the knee level, a horizontal stitch is sewn, forming a fold, and only then the filling of the workpiece is completed.

It is convenient to stuff with a sushi stick

Sweeping of the torso and limbs.

Fold the lower edge of the body inward and sweep it, while sewing in the doll’s legs. The side seams should match and the legs should be the same length. Baste hands with a hidden seam.

Sewing an outfit.

Cut out all parts of the dress or suit, placing them on the fabric in one direction, and sew them according to the principle of ordinary clothing. The exception is models in which part of the outfit is initially connected to the body like a swimsuit or combination. In this case, all that remains is to make only the missing parts - sleeves, skirt or pants, etc. - and connect them to Tilda with hidden seams.

Tilda's outfit consists of many items of clothing and accessories

Creating a hairstyle.

You can style Tilda's hair in various ways: make a loose ponytail, braid it in one or two braids, curl it, leaving it loose.

In any case, the hair needs to be attached to the head, sewn along the central parting, and then give free rein to your imagination. Stitches can be hidden with a hat, wreath, scarf or headdress.

This is what creating a hairstyle looks like

Giving expression to the face.

Usually this step comes down to sewing on beady eyes. You can also lightly tint Tilda’s cheeks with acrylic paints diluted in water or regular blush.

Additional details.

Decorate the doll with ribbons, lace, buttons and beads. If you are sewing an angel figurine, then at one of the last stages you need to make the wings and sew them to the back of Tilda. If desired, attach a loop here by which you can hang the toy so that it floats in the air.

Toys-angels using the Tilda technique

Making accessories.

Here, depending on the idea, you should twist glasses from wire, weave a beaded bouquet, or sew a miniature handbag.

When connecting all the parts of the doll and her outfit, it is recommended to first pin them together and only then sew them together. This will allow you to see possible errors in time and correct them.

Tilda gives the room a special coziness

The finished Tilda will be an excellent addition to almost any interior and a wonderful gift for all occasions. Using the recommendations and tips from the article, you can sew not one, but several figures using this unusual technique.

Schemes and descriptions of crocheting amigurumi dolls

Making crocheted amigurumi toys is not difficult; diagrams and descriptions can be easily downloaded. And detailed video tutorials on crocheting amigurumi dolls can be easily found on the Katkarmela Handmade YouTube channel. Here you can watch a free MK video of making a bear, unicorn, elf, angel and other toys.

There are many interesting master classes for beginners and experienced craftswomen on the channels of Elena Belova, Nina Tarasova, Yulia Tkacheva, Svetlana Vysotskaya.

There are interesting groups dedicated to amigurumi knitting on the VKontakte social network - the Foxy group.

Yo-yo doll

The author of the idea of ​​knitting cool yo-yo dolls is Marina Zakharova. The baby doll is about 16 cm high. As you knit, you need to fill the toy with synthetic padding or other suitable filling.

The model is simple to implement. Amigurumi is crocheted according to the following pattern:

1. Separately knit two parts (legs).
2. The knitted parts are connected together and the body continues to be knitted.
3. Change the thread to light pink or beige and knit the head.
4. Separately knit two parts of the handles and sew them to the body.
5. They knit a hat and scarf and put on a baby doll.
6. Sew on the eyes.

Additionally, the doll can be decorated with buttons, beads, bows as desired.

Pirozhenka

This is the author's model of Lyudmila Zhuravleva. Knitted from threads of three colors - beige (head and hands), colored (overalls) and white (hat, lace on the overalls).

Knitting stages:

1. Two legs are knitted and joined together.
2. Handles are knitted separately with threads of two colors (hands and sleeves), without covering the upper loops.
3. They begin to knit the body as an extension of the legs.
4. Before starting to knit the head, attach the already knitted hands, change the color of the thread, and knit the head.

Read

Crochet summer coat using fillet knitting technique

The last stage is knitting a hat and decorating the Pirozhenka doll.

Barbie

Knitting a Barbie doll requires experience. This is a rather difficult toy to make, since it is necessary to knit an anatomically correct body. A rigid frame is used to give shape. Another difficult point is the face. It is necessary to form a relief, embroider eyebrows, eyes, lips.

Barbie needs to attach her hair. They can be made from yarn or you can buy special hair for dolls in craft departments.

You can pair a Barbie with a boy doll. Clothes for these characters are knitted separately.

Stesha

Stesha is a designer doll by Tatyana Kostochenkova. Model height 27 cm with holofiber filling. Doll tresses were used to make the hair. The hat and shoes are not removable. The separately knitted vest can be removed.

Stesha's scheme.

Ballerina

There are many options for making amigurumi Ballerina (ballerina). There are relatively simple descriptions for beginners, and there are complex schemes that require great skill.

Martina

The author of the toy is Sandrine Campana. Schemes and descriptions of crocheted amigurumi dolls were published in foreign magazines. Martina's size is 28 cm, she is knitted from 100% cotton. The hat and clothes are removable, the shoes are not.

Original description with step-by-step photos: Martina doll

Alenka

Alenka is a character from the popular cartoon “Fairytale Patrol”. A free video tutorial on knitting a doll is available on YouTube.

Japanese

Traditional Japanese kokeshi or kokeshi dolls were made from wood, but are now made from a variety of materials, including crocheted ones. There are many patterns for knitting Japanese dolls, but mostly in foreign languages.

Frame doll made of nylon

Making such dolls requires experience, because frame toys are the pinnacle of hosiery craftsmanship. The toys are pleasant to the touch, they are soft and resemble a little man. To create the frame, metal wire is used, preferably copper or aluminum. Finished products can stand and sit on their own.

Head

As practice shows, creating the head when making a frame doll takes the most time. This is a complex process, but if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions, it can be made easier.

Step 1. Fill a nylon bag with synthetic padding so that you form a spherical lump. Squeeze this ball with your fingers to create another small lump - this is the nose. Tie the nylon bag after filling.

Formed doll head with nose

Step 2. Insert the needle at the top of the nose and pull the thread, thereby forming the bridge of the nose. The thread should be used in flesh color so that it does not stand out against the background of the nylon.

The bridge of the nose is formed using a thread

Step 3. In the same way, insert a needle from the bottom of the nose to create nostrils.

The nostrils are created in the same way.

Step 4. Make small loops of thread around the formed nostrils.

Loops are created around the nostrils

Step 5. Carefully pull loops of thread to outline the nose of the future doll.

Then the loops need to be removed

Step 6: Add small lumps on the sides to form the cheeks. You also need to add a piece for the mouth through the bottom hole of the head.

The doll will have chubby cheeks

Step 7: Insert a needle and thread into the left corner of your mouth and gently draw it through your left eye. Tighten and repeat the process on the right side.

Threads are passed through the eyes

Step 8: Pull the thread between the right and left corners of your lips to create a smile. The thread should be sufficiently taut.

The same thread creates a smile

Step 9. Pull another thread, only this time under the upper lip. This will create the lower lip.

Lower lip formed

Step 10. Poke the needle through the center of the smile and then bring the thread out from the top.

The needle passes through the center of the lips

Step 11. To form the sponges into a bow, tighten the thread.

The thread is tightened to make a bow on the lips

Step 12: Adjust the length of the bridge of your nose by moving the needle back and forth. It is enough to perform a few movements.

The bridge of the nose has been corrected

Step 13. Attach the finished eyes with glue. They can be removed from an old unnecessary doll or purchased in a store.

Eyes attached with glue

Step 14. Glue on the toy wig, which, like the eyes, can be removed from the old doll.

Hair can be taken from an old doll

Torso

As soon as the work on creating the toy head is completed, you can begin making the body of the future doll. Below are step-by-step instructions for this process.

Step 1. Make a frame of the body from wire, using a ready-made diagram with dimensions as a basis.

Dimensions of the frame of the future doll

Step 2. Bend 5 pieces of wire to create an arm frame. Cover the wire itself with padding polyester or other filler. Make two hands.

The doll's palms are ready

Step 3. Cover the finished palms with small pieces cut from nylon tights.

Palms are covered with nylon

Step 4. Sew the hands to create relief on the fingers, giving them a natural appearance.

Sewn hands

Step 5. Cover the doll frame with padding polyester and connect the torso with the arms and head.

Now you need to attach the doll's head

Step 6. Having finished with padding polyester, wrap the doll’s frame with nylon.

The body of our doll is almost ready

Step 7. Dress up the finished doll in some clothes and enjoy the result. You can sew the costume yourself or take outfits from other dolls. This variety will allow you to change the image of the frame doll regularly.

Finished frame doll made of tights

Reflections: how to make an analogue of a doll

It happens that some doll catches your eye very much - but for some reason you immediately understand that you won’t buy one for yourself. And it’s not even about money, you can earn it if you really want it - but for other reasons. This is what happened to me too.

A couple of months ago a friend’s feed brought me this handsome guy:

I liked the guy so much that I even found and watched the series on which this doll was made - Code Geass. It turns out that last year he celebrated his tenth anniversary, and by this date Smart Doll announced a limited edition of character dolls, but so far only the first of the three promised has been released (the other two have only appeared at exhibitions and a couple of promotional photos).

It seems like what to expect, run and buy! But... this turned out to be just the case when buying a doll does not come down to a financial issue. Because: a) this is last year’s limit, and by the time I found out about it, it was already hopelessly listed as Out of stock. b) the mobility of dolls is very important to me, but smartdolls have limited mobility, especially in the knees (they bend only 90°, and this is the principled position of their manufacturer - Danny Chu believes that increasing mobility will harm the aesthetics of the joint). Although I really like this type of design - with an articulated skeleton - much more than a BJD. and c) the point that turned out to be the most significant - size. Sold-outs are caught in the secondary, you can put up with limited mobility, but unfortunately, nothing can be done about the fact that 60 cm is completely not my format. I have the entire collection of 1/6 and 1/12, with the exception of one author 1/4, and this guy absolutely did not fit into my doll company.

And it would seem that I should continue to sit, contemplate pictures on the Internet and sigh. But hopelessness is not our choice